Topic: Speaker DIY'ers

[JojoD818]

Balak ko sana first group project nila yan speaker build, if I go FR I will save myself a lot of questions eh.

Pag nag multi-speaker ang dami tanong, para saan yun cap, yun coil, eh yun ganito ano ginagawa, yun ganito, etc.

Kahapon habang dumaan si Glenda walang power nag harvest kami ng mga rechargeable AA battery from cameras, speed light, at gumawa ng LED night light. Dami tanong sa akin bakit need pa ng limiting resistor? Bakit di pwede ang wala resistor? Bakit nasunog yun LED nun walang resistor? Bakit yun ang resistor na ginamit? Sino si Ohm?

Hay di ko namalayan nakadaan na ang bagyo.

[Gino]

Daddy, bakit walang crossover and FR? Ano ba ang nagagawa ng capacitor, coil, at resistor ng crossover? Ha ha ha. Wala kang lusot. Blessing and a curse and may matalinong mga anak.

[JoeyGS]

It looks like mas maganda pag maraming tanong dahil di mo mamamalayan lumipas ang bagyo!  Ok din kaya yan sa pagpalipas ng Stress?

[JojoD818]

Daddy, bakit walang crossover and FR? Ano ba ang nagagawa ng capacitor, coil, at resistor ng crossover? Ha ha ha. Wala kang lusot. Blessing and a curse and may matalinong mga anak.

Sana nga di na mai raise yun question na yun. Yun LED nga sabi ko may magic smoke sa loob, pag nakawala yun di na maibabalik at di na iilaw... nakailan demostration din kami ng puffing LEDs kahapon hahaha!

Basta sunod lang ako kung saan direction gusto nila, nagkataon mahilig makinig kaya sige lang.

It looks like mas maganda pag maraming tanong dahil di mo mamamalayan lumipas ang bagyo!  Ok din kaya yan sa pagpalipas ng Stress?

Yup, bored dahil contained kahapon sa loob ng bahay dahil sa bagyo, walang magawa kaya naisipan gumawa ng LED light kaysa maglaro ng kandila. Very effective na stress reliever, minsan lang nahihirapan ako mag explain hahaha!

[Gino]

I bought Ace Stain and Finish for the final phase of my speakers. The test panels looked great and captured what I wanted.




And then disaster. The application was thicker than needed and the finish started running. Some areas were darker and some pores did not accept the stain.





I'll let these dry and sand once more. I hope I do a better job next time.

[timber715]

Let it dry for two days kung nag run para siguradong dry na. Sand with 200 grit or higher, don't go too rough. Kung pwede wet sanding do so, use water with several drops of joy dishwashing detergent para di mag clogg yung sandpaper mo and make the sanding better. Since flat surfaces mo, use a sanding block or a small piece of plywood to back your sandpaper. Sand until the face is mostly scratched, try to get all the shiny portions off without sanding through. So sand slowly lang. This will also give you a flatter surface afterwards covering the pores.
Also, kung pwede frontside pointed up during painting, do so. Yan kasi most important part na makikita mo everyday.
Goodluck.... Maganda yan stain and finish.

[JojoD818]

ayaw pa matapos yan project na yan kaya more elbow grease required bro...

[Gino]

Stained and Unfinished. Tiis na muna until I gather enough emotional strength to proceed. I really like the color.

[Gino]

I partially sanded my test panel. Promising. The grains did get darker. I applied very thin Stain and Finish. No run even when dried vertically. Now, the trick is to sand it evenly or as desired if I opt for a distressed look.

[JojoD818]

mukhang ok naman ah, baka you just need to sand and level out the runs lang?

di kaya dumilim pa (darken) pag nag recoat ka ng stain and finish? sabagay ang solusyon dun use clear poly instead of stain and finish.

[Gino]

Ay yes, prop level cosmetics it is nice. Based on my tests it can be better.

[JojoD818]

I see, in that case good luck with the procedure. At least di mahirapan maghintay ng pagtuyo, magagamit muna as is.

Ang sarap siguro i-ros niyan, nakakagigil...

[Gino]

Kung baga sa kotse na nabangga, puro masilya pero ginagamit muna he he.

[JojoD818]

Kung baga sa kotse na nabangga, puro masilya pero ginagamit muna he he.

Sana nga maliha mo pa yan, baka tamarin na gawin hehehe.

Or gawa ka pa ng isang set!

[Gino]

Sanded down the face of one speaker. Wet sanding didn't work, wood rubbed off like paper on a small area. I did repairs. I'm letting it dry. then 2nd attempt. If I mess this up, yes I'll build another pair.

[Tsnad]

Sanded down the face of one speaker. Wet sanding didn't work, wood rubbed off like paper on a small area. I did repairs. I'm letting it dry. then 2nd attempt. If I mess this up, yes I'll build another pair.

sir try mo different grit sand paper kasi ma peel off yan na parang paper. then banayad lang ang sanding... nag try na din ako mag stain at medyo mahirap kunin yung desired na color na gusto mo. sa youtube ata merun instruction.

[Gino]

Wala sa grit. I inadevertently broke through the sanding sealer. Nagabsorb ng water yung wood fibers. Ayun hinugot siya ng sand paper. Kitang kita ko mga hibla. I repaired with putty.

[RXV]

For me, I don't do sanding with water/detergent with wood, even if it's marine plywood pa, I don't like the feeling of my wood absorbing moisture (and especially water for that part). Dry sanding lang kahit na matrabaho, 80 grit first para mabilis, then 220 and higher to smoothen and remove scratch marks.

I leave the wet sanding for automobile/metal use.

Also, I think the putty is not a good idea, kahit pa wood putty/filler, mahahalata kapag na-stain na (well, to my eyes actually..). Putty for me is best for applied for duco finish or leather-wrapped enclosures.

[RXV]

If ever you decide to create another set of new bookshelves na lang, at least habang ginagawa mo yung new bookshelves and sand and stain and poly (which will take some time), you'll still be able to use your speakers in your existing boxes at the moment while the new ones are being finished

[Gino]

Correct. I did a sample panel tonight using sanding sealer then Stain and Finish. Perfect again. Ewan ko ba kung bakit perfect pag sample but messed up when actual.

Pagpractisan ko muna these boxes. Get the system right. I'll follow your sanding advice to bare wood. Hello back aches he he. Hours and hours of fun.

[timber715]

If the wood is properly sealed, water doesn't really get absorbed but the wood....
Jumping from 80 grit to 200 should not make it faster. Avoid jumping grits too far apart, from 80, 120 grit should make the right transition. That way the scratch marks of the 80 grit (which is deep) can be removed by the 120 grit. Then moving to higher incremental grits get you to the polish you seek. A 200 grit will take long to remove the 80 grit scratch simply because it is too deep for the finer grit.
But if it works, why fix it right?

Gino, I would avoid a putty unless the damage is obvious. But for what its worth the finish you choose should cover the putty without much discoloration. You probably need two or more coats though...

[Gino]

I think it will be less stressful to make new boxes. Stick with what I know. Straight Boysen. Ace Stain and Finish is very tricky.

This time make accurate cuts so that there is minimal putty. Easier said than done. My new saw is crying to be used.

[RXV]

If the wood is properly sealed, water doesn't really get absorbed but the wood....
Jumping from 80 grit to 200 should not make it faster. Avoid jumping grits too far apart, from 80, 120 grit should make the right transition. That way the scratch marks of the 80 grit (which is deep) can be removed by the 120 grit. Then moving to higher incremental grits get you to the polish you seek. A 200 grit will take long to remove the 80 grit scratch simply because it is too deep for the finer grit.
But if it works, why fix it right?

Gino, I would avoid a putty unless the damage is obvious. But for what its worth the finish you choose should cover the putty without much discoloration. You probably need two or more coats though...

The jump from 80 grit to 220 works for me because I use a sanding machine which for some reason doesn't show scratch marks anymore once I reach 220 grit naman. Pero kung hand sanded, I use 150 after 80 then 220 and 400/600 sometimes depending on wood. This is when I sand to bare wood again

Also, when you said "If the wood is properly sealed, water doesn't really get absorbed but the wood....", do you mean when it is sealed by sanding sealer? In Gino's situation, I think it is hard to "tantsya" to sand the stain & finish until umabot sa sanding sealer layer na lang, minsan nasosobrahan ang pag-sand so hindi na pantay yung pagka-seal ng wood. For me (my project), I ended up sanding my own wood to bare wood again para sure na lang na pantay lahat and started again all over, lesson learned :p

[Gino]

I cannot get to bare fresh wood. Best I got white wood with black grains. I cannot sand deeper because I will go through the top veneer of the plywood.

[remington]

best solution is to wipe it with lacquer thinner untill mabura ang stain at sanding sealer that is kung walang ginamit na polyurethane top coat or para mabilis pwede din gamitan ng stripsol and steel brush and wipe it clean with lacquer thinner.

[timber715]

best solution is to wipe it with lacquer thinner untill mabura ang stain at sanding sealer that is kung walang ginamit na polyurethane top coat or para mabilis pwede din gamitan ng stripsol and steel brush and wipe it clean with lacquer thinner.

di po bakal yan ha?! Plywood brader. And the finish is oil based polyurethane.

Rvx, sealed I meant naka topcoat na and not the sanding sealer only.
Hand sanding si Gino so best not skip grits. But even with a machine (which I too does) skip one grit at best lang. So from 80 next would be 150 is ideal for Removing all finish.
Seems 180 grit was still aggressive in Gino's case (wet sanding), starting with 240 grit might do a better job.

Gino, as previously suggested, try scrubbing the test piece until veneer is exposed then apply your finish again. If it works than you might not need to build a new enclosure.

[remington]

di po bakal yan ha?! Plywood brader. And the finish is oil based polyurethane.

Rvx, sealed I meant naka topcoat na and not the sanding sealer only.
Hand sanding si Gino so best not skip grits. But even with a machine (which I too does) skip one grit at best lang. So from 80 next would be 150 is ideal for Removing all finish.
Seems 180 grit was still aggressive in Gino's case (wet sanding), starting with 240 grit might do a better job.

Gino, as previously suggested, try scrubbing the test piece until veneer is exposed then apply your finish again. If it works than you might not need to build a new enclosure.

ay mali pala yun! ganun kasi ginagawa namin dati when I was in the construction and furniture business pag naghuhugas kami ng mga plywood na may varnish at irere cycle kailangan lang marunong ang gagawa para di masira old school but it still works ginagawa ko pa din ngayon yan

[Gino]

My new fresh test hindi fruitful. After sanding, sanding sealer smooth, I applied Stain and Finish. Distribution is good, but I had rough gritty dry spots. I don't know what caused that. Wood was smooth before I applied. I cannot put another layer because it will be darker. I think that's what makes S&F harder. Everything must be perfect with one coat.

[JojoD818]

Gino, for a wood newbie like me this would mean a zugzwang situation especially when the concept of making a new box exists. Nevertheless, I wouldn't give up just like that, wag mo tigilan hangga't di mo nakukuha yun desired effect na gusto mo.

Pero I suggest mag break ka muna diyan... pahinga ka muna mga ilan araw.

[Gino]

Salamat. Yes, running running muna ako. Rest the mind he he. Then 3rd practice. Para skilled na when I do new boxes.