Author Topic: Speaker Modification / Upgrade (Read 78024 times)

qguy · « **Reply #30 on:** Mar 18, 2004 at 01:03 PM »

Is your loudspeakers/system too bright ?

Heres an el- cheapo tweak that I have done before with my KEF and Kenwood amp

cover the tweeter with tissue paper....experiment with the number of sheets...have fun !!!

may not work for all systems...but heck...its just tissue paper your wasting....

NOTE: Save some tissue paper...you'll never know when you REALLY need some

BGA VI · « **Reply #31 on:** Mar 18, 2004 at 01:16 PM »

ok yun a, ma try nga ! 1 ply or 2 ply/ hehehe !

av_phile1 · « **Reply #32 on:** Mar 22, 2004 at 11:08 AM »

My experience indicates that brightness usually results from a peaking in the 2K to 6K frequency ranges. This is often caused by uncompensated crossovers where both midrange and tweeters deliver frequencies around the crossover point that add up in amplitude to make the sound in that region more prominent. Putting an absorptive material over the tweeter can tame the brightness. But it can also roll-off the frequencies above 6k, giving less instrumental detail. The better solution here is to tweak the crossover dividing network. Just my 2 cents.

qguy · « **Reply #33 on:** Mar 22, 2004 at 11:22 AM »

yup..this is true..

but the tissue paper tweak wont cost you 2 cents...hehehehehe

Quote from: av_phile1 liThe better solution here is to tweak the crossover dividing network. Just my 2 cents.
[quote

bhongskie · « **Reply #34 on:** Jul 06, 2005 at 11:29 AM »

Hi guys! I learned that some of the guys here at pdvd are into speaker tweaking to improve the sound. I was thinking of having my US Audio speakers tweaked. Can you guys please tell me who can help?

I can't seem to find buyers for my US Audio speakers so I thought I'll just make them a dedicated speaker for music and just buy perhaps a surplus amp to drive them. The reason I wanted to have them tweaked is that they seem to sound "tunog lata" na compared to other (branded) speakers that I heard.

I am not keen on tweaking the speakers myself, I might just pay somebody who knows how to do it and may I know how much pls.?

Help please. Thanks

Jairus · « **Reply #35 on:** Jul 06, 2005 at 05:39 PM »

Try to contact Mhel or Anthony.

Anthony #541 6441 #0918 335 4694
Mhel #0917 529 8004

maglite · « **Reply #36 on:** Jul 11, 2005 at 12:19 PM »

What capacitors would you recommend for tweeking and where can we purchase good capacitors.. i'm using Monitor Audio B4, B2 and Center...

and wire also...

Garp · « **Reply #37 on:** Jul 19, 2005 at 02:58 PM »

try sonicaps...relatively cheap at GR-reserach.com. Very long break in time though. Got mine from them. Use credit card. The shop ships your package as 'sample' items, which is why mine didn't get taxed at the local PO.

C.O.2 · « **Reply #38 on:** Jul 26, 2005 at 12:53 PM »

Hello to everybody! I just want to get some help from you guys on what are the parameters in setting crossover frequencies for various drivers (woofers, mid-range & tweeters) in relation to their diameters and also the values of my xover components for a 3-way speaker. I am planning to make diy speakers for hi-fi stereo listening, so please help me. God bless you...

itgbkj · « **Reply #39 on:** Jul 26, 2005 at 01:05 PM »

Ano yung POWER TACK? Pano ikabit at ano hitsura nito?

Thanks!

jerix · « **Reply #40 on:** Jul 26, 2005 at 02:03 PM »

Quote from: mr kenkoy on Sep 01, 2003 at 04:43 PM

try this guys!
put a marble slab (same size as your speakers) on top of your speakers this will prevent any movement of speakers even when your playing at very high volume
stero imaging will be stabilized and youll hear the difference immediately. this kinda mass load the speaker/stand

I still have several pieces of ceramic floor tiles -- siguro pwede rin to --

av_phile1 · « **Reply #41 on:** Jul 27, 2005 at 11:21 AM »

Quote from: EDSA3 on Jul 26, 2005 at 12:53 PM

Hello to everybody! I just want to get some help from you guys on what are the parameters in setting crossover frequencies for various drivers (woofers, mid-range & tweeters) in relation to their diameters and also the values of my xover components for a 3-way speaker. I am planning to make diy speakers for hi-fi stereo listening, so please help me. God bless you...

If I recall right from my DIY days ages ago, setting the crossover frequencies have more dependence on the natural frequency responses of the driver and you normally set it above and/or below the knee of the response graph so the driver operates more in the linear or flat regions. You would need a spec sheet on each of the driver you want to use. Then there are other design considerations on what type of dividing networks to use (Chebychev, Linkwitz-Riley, Bessel, Butterworth) and how steep the roll-offs you want with each driver(first order, second order, etc.) with their inherent phase shifts and doing some compensating R-C circuits (Zobel network, plain resistor, etc.) to flaten the response curve. (e.g, If the dividing network has a 180 degree phase shift, you'd reverse the connection to the driver. ) It's a rather complicated effort requiring some readouts from trace oscilliscopes and a signal generator. Otherwise, you'd be on a hit or miss affair using very subjective ears. Don't ask me any further as the details and equations already escape me at this time. Though I'm sure other members deep into DIY can help here. I suggest you do some google search on the topic of speaker dividing networks. There are some excellent sites I've seen that even have a calculator function on what the capacitive, resistive and inductive values to use given the crossover frequencies you want and the roll off in decibels. And vice versa.

Having said that, IMHO, simple 2-way speakers are the way to go for Hi-fi listening. Many DIY net sites have projects in this area proven to perform well and can match some of the finer brands out there. They require simpler dividing networks with lesser aberrant sonic behaviours that 3-ways deliver without complicated dividing networks. Just my thoughts. Hope this helps.

C.O.2 · « **Reply #42 on:** Jul 28, 2005 at 10:17 AM »

Thanks sir avphile1. Actually i asked about the subject because lately i tweaked my cheapo speaker and improved its sonic response. The original speaker (two-way pro) has no low pass filter but do have inductor and capacitor in series for the horn (I don't know why such design). I modified the design by dedicating the existing inductor for the low pass and the capacitor for the high pass. Right now, i'm planning to tweak farther the same speaker by employing 2nd order Butterworth to increase roll-off. I am enjoying tweaking my speakers: from replacing cables, adding damping materials and extending vent tubes. I'll take your suggestion to farther research on this matter from relative sites to gain farther knowledge. Thanks again... Happy tweaking everybody!!!

av_phile1 · « **Reply #43 on:** Jul 28, 2005 at 10:38 AM »

Good for you Edsa3. That was also how I started in this hobby in high school. But I learned later on that some of the finer 2-way speakers out there actually have just a capacitor in series with a tweeter. That's because the woofer already has a natural roll-off in the highs that makes a low-pass filter redundant and unnecesarily phase-shifting. But don't let that stop you. Like you said, happy tweaking.

old_age · « **Reply #44 on:** Sep 11, 2005 at 01:14 PM »

is it advisable to use thicker wires inside the speakers or use the same gauge? say, replace the existing gauge 18 or 20 speaker wires inside the speakers with gauge 14. will there be improvements if rewiring is resorted or is it useless unless you change the caps likewise?

av_phile1 · « **Reply #45 on:** Sep 12, 2005 at 09:46 AM »

Quote from: new_age on Sep 11, 2005 at 01:14 PM

is it advisable to use thicker wires inside the speakers or use the same gauge? say, replace the existing gauge 18 or 20 speaker wires inside the speakers with gauge 14. will there be improvements if rewiring is resorted or is it useless unless you change the caps likewise?

Those cables used inside speakers are of so short lengths that 18 ga cables will do fine. You could change them as what most DIYers do. And it's up to your ears if you hear any improvements.

masterjericho · « **Reply #46 on:** Sep 12, 2005 at 11:26 AM »

hi...

have any one tried to make those powered sub to auto volt?

odyopayl · « **Reply #47 on:** Sep 12, 2005 at 05:26 PM »

Quote from: masterjericho on Sep 12, 2005 at 11:26 AM

hi...

have any one tried to make those powered sub to auto volt?

I think this something to do with the power supply of the Powered sub.

KEN · « **Reply #48 on:** Sep 19, 2005 at 06:47 PM »

For internal speaker wire is it ok to use different size or type of wire (eg. copper, silver plated) for the HI and LO? or better to have to same size and type ?

TIA

old_age · « **Reply #49 on:** Sep 19, 2005 at 09:36 PM »

Ken,

why not?

it'll boil down again to your taste. Me, i replaced all the stock unbranded copper gauge 18 wires of the Mission M74 with Ecosse CS2.3 gauge 14 on the tweeter and two mid/bass woofers. same length. Sounded bigger, smoother and wider. Of course, i use also Ecosse CS2.3 speaker externally and Ecosse The BestBoy interconnect. Though it makes sense to use smaller gauge since the signal path is very short , but, i prefer the larger gauge, that's me!

KEN · « **Reply #50 on:** Sep 20, 2005 at 05:06 PM »

hi new_age thanks for your reply

I already did some minor tweaking on my 602s3(using sand paper on the contact point bet. XO board and binding post) result was not as expected but no harm done... and now contemplating of replacing the internal speaker wire.

I'm planning to use silver plated QED silver anniversary, IC is Vhd D Name and extnl speaker cable is mixed combination of AQ MN+/CAT5 DIY for LOW and QED silver Anniversary for the HI...

Now I know I'm not alone on this path...thanks again.

old_age · « **Reply #51 on:** Sep 20, 2005 at 08:13 PM »

Great Ken! pero di kaya maging brighter ang 602 with the silver wire? you know naman, metal tweeters are really sharp. AQ midnight plus is known to be a warm cable just don't know how it will blend with CAT5. I have several cuts of CAT5 here, tried it before but it was on a brighter side with my system.

This afternoon, i just installed a TDK ferrite magnet ring inside the speakers....clamped on the Ecosse CS2.3 for the tweeter only...great result. Others put this outside the speakers, near the binding post... but i just tried it today to clamp it on the tweeters internal wiring. Solved the sibilance. i can now listen to stacey kent and patricia barber for days.

keep on sharing.

KEN · « **Reply #52 on:** Sep 21, 2005 at 07:42 PM »

hi new_age,

Did it last night but I replaced only the mid/woofer wire because the tweeter wiring has a plastic connector with a triangular top which I find difficult to remove(saving it for future experiment).

I wrapped the whole wire in teflon tape and inserted it in a heat shrink - (macho/pogi points) and use 4%silver solder. I have not yet thoroughly listen to it, though initially i've notice a minor changes on the midrage but I'm not sure yet about it. This comming weekend I will carefully listen to it to see any changes on the sound since I only did it on one of the speakers I can compare it with the other one.

Quote from: new_age on Sep 20, 2005 at 08:13 PM

Great Ken! pero di kaya maging brighter ang 602 with the silver wire? you know naman, metal tweeters are really sharp.

Yup I agree with you that AQ MN+ is warm(for my setup/me its to much), I even used it before for my HI and the QED SA for my LOW's and sound great, when I make the DIY CAT5 I tried different combination and I end up w/ AQ MN+/DIY CAT5 for Hi and QED SA for LOW...(setup is on passive vertical biamp)

Quote

AQ midnight plus is known to be a warm cable just don't know how it will blend with CAT5. I have several cuts of CAT5 here, tried it before but it was on a brighter side with my system.

Tried before ferrite magnet on my IC and power supply cable, stop using it when I got my Iso trans.

Quote

This afternoon, i just installed a TDK ferrite magnet ring inside the speakers..

PB's 'Taste of Honey' will be one of my reference song this week end together with
Jheena L's Vol2 CD as well as Rebecca P's 'Spanish Harlem'. I'll post the result of my testing afterwards ...half of the fun on this hobby/passion I guest is on tweaking/experimenting.

Quote

I can now listen to stacey kent and patricia barber for days.
keep on sharing.

kt · « **Reply #53 on:** Sep 22, 2005 at 11:41 AM »

hi guys! will there be a difference if i change my MS speaker terminal braces? have no plans of biwiring them just yet...sir av_phile told me that i can try replacing the braces & that some also use short speaker wires as braces. wats your take on this? TIA!

H a n $ · « **Reply #54 on:** Sep 22, 2005 at 12:24 PM »

Quote from: kt on Sep 22, 2005 at 11:41 AM

hi guys! will there be a difference if i change my MS speaker terminal braces? have no plans of biwiring them just yet...sir av_phile told me that i can try replacing the braces & that some also use short speaker wires as braces. wats your take on this? TIA!

You can try some speaker wire available in the market for me have notice more clarity or better mids depends on the wire you used.. currently using Audience hookup wire from Arch Audio for my speaker.

kt · « **Reply #55 on:** Sep 22, 2005 at 12:58 PM »

bro hans! are those the same as the speaker cables? wat if im using 14ga cables already? can i just strip out the wires long enough for them to reach n bind on the other terminals n remove the braces? TIA!

levi · « **Reply #56 on:** Sep 22, 2005 at 11:34 PM »

Ken, What is the orig wire of the 602?

KEN · « **Reply #57 on:** Sep 24, 2005 at 07:15 PM »

Quote from: levi on Sep 22, 2005 at 11:34 PM

Ken, What is the orig wire of the 602?

hi levi,

...looks like a regular a stranded copper wire 16 or 18 ga ata size but with "b&w loudspeakers Ltd." markings on its insulator.

kt · « **Reply #58 on:** Sep 26, 2005 at 05:43 PM »

hi guys! anybody tried to replace the jumper brackets on your biwirable speakers? tnx

old_age · « **Reply #59 on:** Sep 26, 2005 at 07:53 PM »

kt,

My HT front and center speakers composed of Mission M72 and M7C2 are biwreable but wired them singly with Ixos 6006, replaced my stock jumpers with 5 inches of Ecosse CS2.3 each pair of binding post...smoother sounding and tamed with Ixos 1051 Silver Interconnect Digital Coax. My Mission M7DS and M7C1i surround speakers are not biwireable so as is.