Topic: leaking caps and upgrade on CD Player

[ProtegeManiac]

just opened my onkyo c-702 today and found toothpaste-like material on some parts, labelled #1 and #4. #2 and #3 I thought I'd think of upgrading them anyway, #2 being on the analog output path but I don't know specifically what #3 is (or the leaking #1 and #4 for that matter).




#1: Nichicon 4700uf, 16v
#2: Nichicon 220uf, 16v
#3: Nichicon 1000uf, 16v
#4: I don't know what that is but it has the toothpaste-like debris coming from it.


I've looked through audioamplified's online mundorf catalogue, if #1 is indeed the power cap (Im guessing based on it's location) then it seems an easy enough choice to get the mlytic power cap (P474.50), right? the mundorf doesn't say however if it's 16v, can I assume that it is? #2's are on the analog output stage, and if I'm on my way to repalacing all caps before they leak BUT upgrade some of them I'd assume these would be one of those, but looking through the mundorfs the only available 220uf caps are M-Caps at over 5k Php each - any suggestions on what I can use instead, provided they're (on paper, at least) supposedly better (lower esr, etc) than the Nichicons? and can I use different values? As for #3, what is it, and assuming it'll be affordable, where and what kind of part can I use to replace this?

Don;t know much about the engineering of these but I have friends taking engineering who can do the work, problem is they're not into hi-fi so I'd have to get suggestions here, acquire the parts and then they'll do the work over beer later. Thanks in advance.

[rascal101]

No need to go to Mundorf on these caps. These do not look like DC blocking caps so you don't have to buy expensive caps. You can go to Eleshop (in Raon) and order same value (same voltage or higher) caps. Then, at the solder side place 100nF or 0.1uF polypropelene caps.

[ATJr.]

#1: Nichicon 4700uf, 16v
#2: Nichicon 220uf, 16v
#3: Nichicon 1000uf, 16v
#4: I don't know what that is but it has the toothpaste-like debris coming from it.

if you notice, leaking caps will have bulging tops, where the aluminum tops are scored, me gatla, also the rubber seal at the bottom will be coming out. i do not see that from your photos...

you can get replacement for #1,2,3 at eleshop, if you can get the 105*C replacements, go for it. way i look at it, #1 seems to have a gum adhesive underneath, this is done on big parts to facilitate wave soldering, if you can take the side photo we will know for sure. same with #4 it could be another part for all we know, quite difficult to tell from that photo alone.

there is nothing wrong if you want to replace those caps btw. 

[ProtegeManiac]

turns out it was gum adhesive, whew... but then again I guess I really should begin to change the caps, in case Im right that these were still the originals from way back in the 90's, before they actually start leaking.