Topic: when 2 set large speaker or small speaker?

[scofield]

ok lang ba set ko ang bookshelf speaker as large?

specs of my speakers:

frequency response:  49hz-20khz (+/-3 db)
sensitivity: 90db
impedance: 8 ohms
x-over frequencies: 3000hz, 24db/octave

Frequency response: 58Hz-20kHz, ±3dB.
Sensitivity: 88dB/2.83V/m.
Nominal impedance: 8 ohms
 Crossover frequency: 3.3kHz, 24dB/octave

paano ba malalaman kung pwede set as large yung speaker?
ano mangyayari pag large setting ang ginawa ko pero hindi pala pwede pang large yung speakers ko? ano ang masisira AVR or speaker?

Thanks

[iceman90a]

if you play your system at reasonable volumes, walang masisira. technically kahit na bookshelf pwede mo iset to large without any undue effects - ang nagiiba usually is yung crossover freq ng receiver going to the sub... in my experience:

fronts set to large - crossover ng avr to sub goes to 40hz
fronts set to small - crossover ng avr to sub goes to 60hz

[scofield]

may nakpag sabi kase sa akin na pag large ang settings ko sa bookshelf speakers parang pinapahirapan ko raw yung avr ko?

any ways thank you...

[kt]

some set their speakers to small even if they're floorstanders...

[aHobbit]

may nakpag sabi kase sa akin na pag large ang settings ko sa bookshelf speakers parang pinapahirapan ko raw yung avr ko?

any ways thank you...

If you are driving your speaker to a very loud level - you might! But it may also be true kahit small ang setting mo. In typical listening level, it is better to set it as large. If you have subwoofer comlementing your bookshelf, you just need to adjust the cross-over setting of the sub according to your liking.

[slowhand]

If you want to err on the side of caution, read this link:

http://forum.ecoustics.com/bbs/messages/34579/128214.html

[MAtZTER]

For my floorstanders, I prefer to use large when I listen to 2 channel audio minus subs. The floorstanders can handle the LFE for 2 channel (set at large).

Then I set it to small when watching HT. To bring out more detail & leave the LFE to the subs.

I just find it irritating when I have to press so many buttons in the remote to toggle these 2 settings. HK does not have a single switch to handle this preference. Yamaha's pure direct mode switch does this.

[kt]

yup i agree w sir matz! dami kelangan i-set if u often switch from small & large. pati kasi output sa subs minsan malakas or mahina...

[av_phile1]

For my floorstanders, I prefer to use large when I listen to 2 channel audio minus subs. The floorstanders can handle the LFE for 2 channel (set at large).

Then I set it to small when watching HT. To bring out more detail & leave the LFE to the subs.

I just find it irritating when I have to press so many buttons in the remote to toggle these 2 settings. HK does not have a single switch to handle this preference. Yamaha's pure direct mode switch does this.

Doesn't the input selector memorize the setting?  So if you have a CD player on one source, you can have a seperate speaker setting as against another setting for a DVD player in another source?   

And just curious. Since you are using a remote controllable velodyne sub which I think has setings for music and HT, is it not ok if you just set the AVR to SMALL and use the remote on the velo to shift  from music to ht and vice-versa.  I was thinking of doing this if I had a similar sub. 

[av_phile1]

may nakpag sabi kase sa akin na pag large ang settings ko sa bookshelf speakers parang pinapahirapan ko raw yung avr ko?

any ways thank you...

This is often done when the main speakers have a lower impedance that can tax the receiver or amp at high volumes.  Setting the AVR to SMALL would route the low frequencies which often have the lowest impedances to the sub so that the AVR and breathe a sigh of relief, so to speak. 

But yes, in general, setting the AVR to SMALL will  relieve it of having to process current demanding low frequencies that eat up 60% to 70% of the AVR's power at any volume level.  In effect, that would allow you to drive the AVR at louder volumes for the mids and highs, and leave the sub to take care of the more power hungry bass frequencies.  Ofcourse. that assumes your sub has sufficient power as well. 

Moreover, setting the AVR to SMALL will treat your main speakers more gently, whether they're bookshleves or floorstanders.  Bass signals below 150hz can be very taxing for your speakers.  You may not notice it, but speakers also heat up due to the currents accross their voice coils that don't always translate to cone movements efficiently and are dissipated in the form of heat.  And low frequencies will heat up your voice coils faster than the mids.   

So get main speakers out there with the best highs, mids and lo-mids you can find.  Get the best subwoofers with the least bass distortion and lowest range you can find.  Then set the AVR to SMALL, and let the main speakers do their best in the mids and highs department as the sub will do its best in the lows.  Specializaton has its rewards.   Using specialized subwoofers and setting the AVR to SMALL is an example of ACTIVE BI-AMPING.  Take advantage of it. 

[scofield]

salamat po sa mga reply.

natatakot kase ako, pag gamit ko yung cd player connected to analog inputs ng avr ko, automatic large settings lang ang available, small setting is available lang sa digital connections. pero may subs naman ako. pero may nkapag sabi rin sa akin na ok lang daw set sa large ang mga bookshelf kung audio listening lang kase daw constant ang bass reproduction unlike sa mga movies na from tahimik biglang lalakas, yun daw yung delikado?

ano ba yung crossover frequency? ito ba yung cut-off frequency:

fronts set to large - crossover ng avr to sub goes to 40hz = lower than 40hz sa sub na punta?
fronts set to small - crossover ng avr to sub goes to 60hz = lower than 60hz sa sub na punta?

[alistair]

Doesn't the input selector memorize the setting?  So if you have a CD player on one source, you can have a seperate speaker setting as against another setting for a DVD player in another source?

Yeah, the HK should do that. I use DVD for playing DVDs on my Xbox, "Video 2" for when I'm playing Xbox games and CD for when I play CDs/2-channel audio. Each has different speaker sets and settings. You should even be able to program your remote such that it can handle some, if not all, of the repetitive button pressing you do when switching 'modes'.

[Kevlar]

ok lang ba set ko ang bookshelf speaker as large?

specs of my speakers:

frequency response:  49hz-20khz (+/-3 db)
sensitivity: 90db
impedance: 8 ohms
x-over frequencies: 3000hz, 24db/octave

Frequency response: 58Hz-20kHz, ±3dB.
Sensitivity: 88dB/2.83V/m.
Nominal impedance: 8 ohms
 Crossover frequency: 3.3kHz, 24dB/octave

paano ba malalaman kung pwede set as large yung speaker?
ano mangyayari pag large setting ang ginawa ko pero hindi pala pwede pang large yung speakers ko? ano ang masisira AVR or speaker?

Thanks

Here's the general rule:
================
You should only set your speakers to 'large' if your speakers
can deliver better bass reproduction than your current subwoofer. 

If not, set them all to small even if they are so called
'floorstanding speakers'. 

This is what you should do if you want the best sound possible
from your stereo-subwoofer or 5.1 audio system.

- Kevlar

[scofield]

Here's the general rule:
================
You should only set your speakers to 'large' if your speakers
can deliver better bass reproduction than your current subwoofer. 

If not, set them all to small even if they are so called
'floorstanding speakers'. 

This is what you should do if you want the best sound possible
from your stereo-subwoofer or 5.1 audio system.

- Kevlar

kaso nga po pag analog connection di ko ma set sa small ung avr...

[av_phile1]

salamat po sa mga reply.

natatakot kase ako, pag gamit ko yung cd player connected to analog inputs ng avr ko, automatic large settings lang ang available, small setting is available lang sa digital connections. pero may subs naman ako.

Your AVR apparently doesn't engage bass management (which is always in the digital domain) when in stereo or bypass mode when using analog connections.  That's good, as it preserves the analog path without converting it to digital.  See if the bass management is activated when you use the digital output of the CD player to your receiver so you can set to SMALL and use a sub for stereo mode.

pero may nkapag sabi rin sa akin na ok lang daw set sa large ang mga bookshelf kung audio listening lang kase daw constant ang bass reproduction unlike sa mga movies na from tahimik biglang lalakas, yun daw yung delikado?

Well not really.  It's the high amplitude (read high current) low low frequencies in movies that can tax bookshelf speakers, even floorstanders.   Musical signals rarely have sustained frequencies below 35hz to 40Hz.  OTH, movie LFE soundtracks can go below 20hz requiring so much power at volumes that are comfortable for dialogue.  Most commercial bookshelf and floorstanders are not really meant to handle those frequencies without difficulty. They can tax both the receiver and your main speakers.  A specialized sub-woofer is meant to relieve your main speakers and receivers from having to process these low frequencies. 

ano ba yung crossover frequency? ito ba yung cut-off frequency:

fronts set to large - crossover ng avr to sub goes to 40hz = lower than 40hz sa sub na punta?
fronts set to small - crossover ng avr to sub goes to 60hz = lower than 60hz sa sub na punta?

Yes, crossover = cutover

When set to LARGE, the main speakers handle ALL the frequencies.  IF you set the subwoofer to YES, the sub handles the bass frequencies together with the main speakers.

When set to SMALL, yes, 60hz AND below goes to the sub, 60hz AND above goes to the main speakers, you actually have a dovetailing of frequency at the crossover point between sub and main speakers. 

[scofield]

Your AVR apparently doesn't engage bass management (which is always in the digital domain) when in stereo or bypass mode when using analog connections.  That's good, as it preserves the analog path without converting it to digital.  See if the bass management is activated when you use the digital output of the CD player to your receiver so you can set to SMALL and use a sub for stereo mode.

cge sir try ko mamaya, coax is digital, d po ba? pwede ba ako gumamit ng ordinary rca para dito?
at pag nag digital ako DAC ng reciever na ang gagamitin di po ba?

thanks

[av_phile1]

cge sir try ko mamaya, coax is digital, d po ba? pwede ba ako gumamit ng ordinary rca para dito?
at pag nag digital ako DAC ng reciever na ang gagamitin di po ba?

thanks

The physical layer requirement for digital transmission is 75-ohm Coax cable.  Ordinary RCA cables are 50-ohm if not mistaken.  But you can still use it with some degradation at long cable lengths. 

Yes, you'd be using the DAC of your receiver.  And hopefully the bass management circuit is activated with it.

[ronjet]

i got this from another forum a few months back...


Set Your Speakers to "Small" in Your Receiver Setup
Posted by Admin on Monday, March 21, 2005 - 05:06 am: [ Submit News ] [ Reply ] 

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Hack #67 from Home Theater Hacks by Brett McLaughlin (O'Reilly Media).

Avoid setting your speakers, even if they are towers, to the "large" setting in your receiver's setup menus.

Receivers and preamp/processors typically have two settings for your speakers: "small" and "large." You need to get past what these words actually mean in English, as they are a very poor choice for this feature of a processor. This setting actually has nothing to do with the size of the speakers, and everything to do with the range of the speakers. This setting determines when low frequencies are diverted from your front speakers and into your subwoofer (the crossover frequency). In other words, it has a tremendous effect on the bass you'll hear in movie soundtracks.

Very few speakers should actually use the "large" setting. Even most of the big, powered towers should not be used with the "large" setting because they can't produce these low frequencies (or they produce them without power and depth). What you should be thinking is that "large" means you have a truly full-range speaker; use "small" for everything else. If your speaker can't put out more than 100dB at 20 Hz, set it to "small."

There are three main reasons for avoiding the "large" setting. The first is that crossovers aren't brick walls; they have slopes in both directions. The rule of thumb is that with typical bass management crossovers, your speaker should be flat to 1 octave below the crossover point. So, with an 80-Hz crossover point, your speaker should be flat to 40 Hz. Lots of speakers can do this. Only a few speakers are flat to 30 Hz (even though manufacturers' specs will try to tell you otherwise, there really are only a few, at least within a reasonable price range), and even fewer speakers are flat to 20 Hz (and below) at the levels a home theater will be asking for. The large setting on a receiver doesn't filter any low frequencies from a speaker to the sub. If the speaker isn't capable of the really low frequencies, they simply will be lost. Set to "small," however, these low frequencies will be filtered out and passed to the subwoofer, which is capable of reproducing them.

The second reason for using the "small" setting is that when you relieve a speaker of low bass duties, that speaker becomes a much easier load for your amp, and the midrange quality of the speaker often improves. The third reason for using the "small" setting is that bass frequencies have the greatest interaction problems with a room. Multiple sources of low bass in non-optimal places cause all sorts of sound wave problems. The best place for your main speakers is almost never the best place from which to produce low bass. Being able to produce all the bass from one spot in the room gives you the best chance of optimizing your room's bass response.

A final thing to note is you have to be wary of processors that allow you to set different crossover points for different speakers. With the exception of some very high-end processors, you should not use this feature. The vast majority of processors with this "feature" high-pass each speaker's signal at the frequency you specify, and send it to the speaker. This is good. However, to feed the sub, the processor will sum the full-range signals from all the full-range channels and the LFE channel, and then low-pass this signal at the lowest crossover point you set. So, if you have your surround crossover set to 100 Hz and your main crossover set to 40 Hz, there will be a 60-Hz hole in your surround channels' responses. This is not good. THX chose 80 Hz as its bass management crossover point for a reason; trust their research and experimentation.
To Trust or Not to Trust
You might recall that in the hack on avoiding internal test tones [Hack #66], I advised you not to take THX up on its calibration tools. Here, though, I steer you toward using THX's wisdom. This might seem confusing, but it actually outlines an important principle: specifications are great for general application, but often terrible for specific application.

When you're dealing with a specification, or a setting that affects all movie playback in all theaters, or any other widespread standard, THX works great. In the case of determining the best crossover for all subs, in all homes, to play all movies, THX can be very helpful. That's because the specification is affecting generalities; it's making sure your movies, to the degree possible with your theater, sound like your neighbor's movies, at least in terms of relative levels of effects, music, and so forth.

On the other hand, setting the acoustics of your individual room is very, very specific. In fact, your theater is going to be at least subtly different from every other theater in the world. It is here that specifications such as THX fall down, and the reason THX Optimizer [Hack #65] and internal test tones are essentially useless. No specification can accurately tune your individual home theater, and often it will make things worse.

As a rule, use specifications for general settings, but fine-tune things by hand, with your ears and a good sound meter [Hack #63].
Set all your speakers to an 80-Hz crossover, and let your sub and speakers do what they do best. --Dustin Bartlett

This material has been adapted from Home Theater Hacks by Brett McLaughlin, published by O'Reilly Media, Inc. Copyright O'Reilly Media, Inc., 2005. All rights reserved.


is this true?

[scofield]

sir av_phile,

pag digital connection pwede na set as small ang avr, pero medyo nag karoon  ng pag bbago sa out medyo may "hissing" sound na lumalabas baka cguro dahil sa cable. anyways thank u sir.

[MAtZTER]

Doesn't the input selector memorize the setting?  So if you have a CD player on one source, you can have a seperate speaker setting as against another setting for a DVD player in another source?   

And just curious. Since you are using a remote controllable velodyne sub which I think has setings for music and HT, is it not ok if you just set the AVR to SMALL and use the remote on the velo to shift  from music to ht and vice-versa.  I was thinking of doing this if I had a similar sub. 

I dont think it does in my case. I use small for HT (DVD button) and when I go to CD, its still in small & I have to configure it to large, and vice versa. I will tinker with it again soon.

I cant use the macro function of the learning remote either bec. the OK button is used in both the macro confirmation & the changing of the speaker size.

I used to play with the remote of the velo for music & HT, but in the end I preferred the sound of the floorstanders alone. Also... to save electricity 

[av_phile1]

I used to play with the remote of the velo for music & HT, but in the end I preferred the sound of the floorstanders alone. Also... to save electricity 

Yup, but the savings can be minimal.  Sayang naman yung features nung velo.  So you're using the sub in just one setting? 

[Kevlar]

Maybe MAtZTER is not able get 'seamless' integration of his Velodyne sub with
his main Mission speakers that's why he doesn't use his subwoofer or probably
he is a 'purist' who prefers 'minimal' processing to the sound. 

Actually, in my B&W 600s3-Velodyne (CHT 15) set up, you would think all the bass
sound was coming from my main speakers even if my Onkyo receiver crossover setting
is highest at 150 Hz.  It helps that I also set my Velo subwoofer crossover at 110 Hz.
(No, the 110 Hz - 150 Hz signals don't get 'lost'.  They just get 'reduced' which is good
since my B&W's are bloated in that range anyway.  This way, they get to sound like
the 600K+/pair B&W Nautilus 800; 'open' and 'airy' instead of being slightly 'boxy'
and 'closed'.)

Subwoofer placement and orientation is also crucial to 'seamless' main speaker - subwoofer
integration.

- Kevlar

[MAtZTER]

Yup, but the savings can be minimal.  Sayang naman yung features nung velo.  So you're using the sub in just one setting? 

Yes, usually for HT setting only , I dont use the rock setting since I got tired of rock ages ago. Jazz setting when I try the small setting plus sub.

I tried it again last night and I still prefer the sound of the floorstanders alone. The bass integration was better. Maybe I need to check out the crossover settings as Kevlar mentioned. I set them all to 80 Hz.

Also, I tried the HK, it really doesnt save the last settings of the speaker size when I go from DVD (all set to small) to CD (2 speakers set to large).

[Kevlar]

I tried it again last night and I still prefer the sound of the floorstanders alone. The bass integration was better. Maybe I need to check out the crossover settings as Kevlar mentioned. I set them all to 80 Hz.

I had problems with seamless integration too, before, when I set my crossover at 80 Hz for receiver
and used the 'subwoofer direct' setting (that is, bypass the subwoofer crossover and let the
receiver alone do the 'filtering'/bass management). 

Trial and error and obsessive-compulsive adjustments later  finally led me to my
150 Hz(receiver)/110 Hz (subwoofer) settings.  I realized after inserting my Avia DVD
(containing 20Hz-200 Hz frequency sweep tones) that there is so much overlap between my
B&W's and my Velo sub at 100Hz - 150 Hz range that SPL readings are 'bloated' at that range. 

I had to employ a higher crossover setting for the receiver to minimize the 'bloat' at 100-150Hz.
I found out the ideal receiver crossover setting for my B&W's is 150Hz.  Despite this receiver crossover
setting, my B&W main speakers still produce significant bass down to 120Hz which tapers off
to inaudibility at around 110 Hz.  My Velodyne subwoofer meanwhile even at a subwoofer crossover
setting of 110Hz starts sounding off at 150 Hz which gradually increases to reference level at 110Hz.
From 110 Hz and below, the Velo maintains a more or less flat SPL output down to about 30 Hz. 
It tapers off starting at 30 Hz down to total inaudibility at 20Hz.

Right now, I'm enjoying seamless integration with my B&W main floorstanding speakers
and my Velodyne CHT 15 sub.  The 'small' settings for my floorstanding B&W speakers
actually resulted to 'dramatic' increase in clarity of the midrange and treble deliveries. 
The redirection of bass frequencies to my Velodyne also improved bass articulation, delivery
and clarity of my audio system.  (My B&W floorstanders can't produce bass as articulate
and as clean as my Velo can.)  I'm getting the best sound possible with these crossover settings.

Also, I orient my Velo subwoofer such that it is placed at the right corner and at the
same distance from the back wall as are my main speakers.  It is pointing diagonally across
the room.  I realized, Velos are best positioned in the corner, beside the right speaker
and not pointing directly at the listening position.  It is best angled about 45 degrees
from the corner and not pointing directly towards the listening position (which make it pinpointable).

This way, the bass seems to come out from the main speakers and fills out the entire room,
with the Velo virtually disappearing.  (You wouldn't know that bass sounds came out of it.)

I tried before, pointing the Velo directly at my listening position but it always resulted
in uneven, pinpointable bass even at 80 Hz crossover settings. I also tried pointing my Velo
straight out from front to back but it resulted to the sub sounding separate from the main
speakers and bass seeming to originate from the right speaker only.

The experience made me realize that there is really a big difference between theory and practice.
THX and many audiophiles subscribe to a receiver crossover setting of NO HIGHER than 80 Hz
to assure non-pinpointable bass and a 'seamless' integration between bigger main speakers
and a sub.

However, this just doesn't work for me and it just doesn't bring out the best in my specific setup.   
Here lies the difference between theory and practice.  In theory, there is no difference between
theory and practice, but in practice, there is. 

My advice? Use theory as a guide but in the end, let your ears decide.

- Kevlar

[av_phile1]

Yes, usually for HT setting only , I dont use the rock setting since I got tired of rock ages ago. Jazz setting when I try the small setting plus sub.

I tried it again last night and I still prefer the sound of the floorstanders alone. The bass integration was better. Maybe I need to check out the crossover settings as Kevlar mentioned. I set them all to 80 Hz.

Also, I tried the HK, it really doesnt save the last settings of the speaker size when I go from DVD (all set to small) to CD (2 speakers set to large).

Sub/speakers are really bi-amplification examples and you would need some help getting not so much the right crossover point, but the proper balance between the sub and speakers at whatever crossover point you choose.  The objective to achieve an in-room response that is flat-out as the frequencies crossover from speaker to sub.  It could require you to set the crossover points differently, say 120 at the preamp and 80 for the sub.  Depending on the steepness of the filter, rather than create a hole, the gap can ensure that the rolloff between the two dovetails to achieve a flat response. And you may have to consider the room modes.  The worst situation would be a room mode that is sympathetic with the crossover freqeuncy. 

[MAtZTER]

I dont think it does in my case. I use small for HT (DVD button) and when I go to CD, its still in small & I have to configure it to large, and vice versa. I will tinker with it again soon.

I cant use the macro function of the learning remote either bec. the OK button is used in both the macro confirmation & the changing of the speaker size.

Gee, I just found out that I only had to configure my bass management to independent instead of global to be able to retain speaker size when I switch from HT (DVD) to audio (CD)! I am a typical "lazy to read the manual" guy. 

I could have saved a lot of time and button pressing if I read this first. 

**************************

Anyway, my new LCD TV came a few days ago and it had an audio out jack. So having a  spare amp (130wpc x 2) and a spare set of bookshelf speakers (M72), I simply connected these spare stuff, no pre amp, to the TV's audio out (for volume control).

The problem is, there is no LARGE or SMALL setting for this amp, all its got is input jacks, speaker terminals and a power button . the amp just powers the bookshelf, pure and simple.

When there are bass heavy scenes, I see the M72's woofers vibrating like crazy. Is this normal? The article ronjet posted above got me scared that the woofers might get damaged in time. What I did was to connect another spare passive sub (bose) to the speakers to reduce the LF stress. Ok lang ba? or unnecessary?

[av_phile1]

Gee, I just found out that I only had to configure my bass management to independent instead of global to be able to retain speaker size when I switch from HT (DVD) to audio (CD)! I am a typical "lazy to read the manual" guy. 

Good for you.  Often we assume we know enough not to read the manual.  I'm guilty as well.  It happend to me with a cellphone model naman.   

Anyway, my new LCD TV came a few days ago and it had an audio out jack. So having a  spare amp (130wpc x 2) and a spare set of bookshelf speakers (M72), I simply connected these spare stuff to the TV's audio out for volume control. The problem is, there is no LARGE or SMALL setting for this amp, all its got is input jacks, speaker terminals and a power button . the amp just powers the bookshelf, pure and simple.

When there are bass heavy scenes, I see the M72's woofers vibrating like crazy. Is this normal? The article ronjet posted above got me scared that the woofers might get damaged in time. What I did was to connect another spare passive sub (bose) to the speakers to reduce the LF stress. Ok lang ba? or unnecessary?

Just curious, your LCD TV is stand alone in another room or part of an HT set-up? Personally, I prefer to get the audio from the DVD player.  But you obviously want amplified sounds for your CATV as well, right?   So you can enjoy big sounds from both. 

Bear in mind that most if not all stereo integrated amps have no bass management circuits, so there'd be no LARGE or SMALL speaker settings which always go hand in hand with a dedicated LFE or sub output from the amp typically found in prologic and 5.1 gears. 

With regards those woofer excursions, I consider this normal depending on whether the speaker cones are designed to be high-excursion types (which is typical of small 5-6inch types) or not so you can expect the cones to vibrate wildly at loud bass signals.  There certainly is the risk that the woofers could be overdriven by transient bass signals at high volumes, especially if the amp is inordinately more powerful than what the speakers can handle.  Also bear in mind that in a 2-way speaker system, the woofer can only handle 60% to 70% of the rated power handling of the speaker as a whole.

I see nothng wrong routing the bass signals to your passive Bose sub which should give you deeper and stronger bass since a sub of sufficiently matched power should do that.

[MAtZTER]

Just curious, your LCD TV is stand alone in another room or part of an HT set-up? Personally, I prefer to get the audio from the DVD player. 

Thanks for the advice sir AV. The LCD TV is actually for our bedroom and is separate from the HT room. If only it was in the HT room, the receiver would have done the job, all it needs is another input jack. Thats why I had to scrounge up some spare stuff  at home just to improve its "tin can" sound  .

 I also thought of directing the IC's from the DVD player to the amp directly but there would be no volume control, so I had to still connect it to the TV for that purpose. Or else it would be too loud & out of control. The TV also has a sub out, but maybe for future upgrade na yun.

But you obviously want amplified sounds for your CATV as well, right?   So you can enjoy big sounds from both. 

Not really sir, I only use the external amp & speakers for watching concerts DVDs & a few DVDs, preferably love stories  & non action ones.

I use the internal speakers for watching DVD featurettes & TV/ cable, which incidentally, we still havent decided to get yet

Thanks again. 

[av_phile1]

I also thought of directing the IC's from the DVD player to the amp directly but there would be no volume control, so I had to still connect it to the TV for that purpose. Or else it would be too loud & out of control. The TV also has a sub out, but maybe for future upgrade na yun.

So the spare amp is a power amp. right?  No volume control.  I think you did the right thing, hooking it to the TV. Pressumably your DVD player is branded since most generic DVD players have playback output control that can go down to total silence and can act as a volume control.

Is this just an interim solution and you are planning to put a 5.1 in your bedroom?

I use the internal speakers for watching DVD featurettes & TV/ cable, which incidentally, we still havent decided to get yet

I also use the TV's internal speakers for DVD special features and cable, more for electric power saving. 

[MAtZTER]

So the spare amp is a power amp. right?  No volume control.  I think you did the right thing, hooking it to the TV. Pressumably your DVD player is branded since most generic DVD players have playback output control that can go down to total silence and can act as a volume control.

Is this just an interim solution and you are planning to put a 5.1 in your bedroom?

I also use the TV's internal speakers for DVD special features and cable, more for electric power saving. 

lol, we think alike on power saving! 

Its just a temporary solution sir, I will try to assemble a 5.1 with cheap 2nd hand stuff from the buy & sell section since the bedroom setup is not a priority. Its only for watching p***ted dvds & barney (and other kiddie videos)  , etc. I decided to not buy a TV for my son's room since I remember your post in another thread -60,000 hrs of panel life is over 20 years of use, so I decided to let my son watch his stuff in our room  .

Yes sir, its a spare power amp w/ no volume control. Whoa, I didnt know generic players have volume controls! And funny thing was, I just gave away a generic DVD player (raffle-won) as a gift to my brother in law last month. Sheesh!  . It could have solved my problem.