my second DIY sub ;D
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0QAAjY1QSBj8yBX*muD42U72RSq42k7ULL5ryRJlpQxCaMGGrw57j!b6GWTt38PDPJzqLpjjNZLVVXqh7HUTakYmpdQ82V8auTwBQAEwARQA/sub1.JPG?dc=4675476785238307742)
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0QwCJArQT25cxLV2c3xjo!UawCiBLWxkO!izvItknkQpXAqgM22xJh8KiA82aIcf87sPSk013A!EaiXl0sx7z9yul4ZdVyvCELrlrPoRr!Lo/subback.JPG?dc=4675476785706029681)
Nice DIY sub. Much better and more able electronic internals than what's i've seen in some commercial subs. What's the power rating?
rmpmla, thats a very impressive project--- how much bro did it cost you for that amp? thnkx ;D
Dalawa na!!!! Galing!!!! ;) ;) ;)
jojo thanks :)
nice subs you got there, too. ALL the works :)
mine is just fixed frequency and low signal input. di ko na kaya yung ibang features ;D
Di ko kasi kayang bumili ng buo na sub kaya diy na lang, customized pa lahat. Next upgrade ko dyan sa mga sub na yan eh auto power on/off para naman di na ako pindot ng pindot ng power switch. ;D
s2kov salamat. ;D
puro kopya lang yan ;D ;D
yung enclosure ginaya ko dun sa 12" MK powered sub ko. binuksan ko loob para malaman ko kung paano install yung electronics at bracing nung loob.
- used a connector between the amp and the power supply/speaker
- install a t- brace inside the enclosure (para wag mag-resonate yung cabinet.
yung low pass filter - http://sound.westhost.com/project48.htm
ito ginamit ko kasi simple lang ;D
hanapin ko yung link para sa amp section.
magandang feature yan for a powered sub :) . please post naman details once you have done this upgrade
most of the hi-end subs daw ay meron nito, naisip ko naman maganda meron nito kasi matipid sa koryente pag hindi ginagamit. ;)
magandang feature yan for a powered sub :) . please post naman details once you have done this upgrade
Even the DTX and USAudio subs have this auto shut-off feature after a few minutes without any signal.
bro, i noticed you had two trafos in your sub. whats the smaller one for? is it for the bridge? i used only one trafo and used regulator ICs to supply the bridge.
i used it to power the low pass filter and the line driver for the bridge+parallel amplifier.
mas ok yung ginawa mo using only one transformer supplying the GC amp and the line driver via regulator ICs.
hindi ako familiar sa regulator ICs kaya bumili na lang ako ng maliit na transformer :)
bro, PM naman shematic nung supply mo para dun sa bridge :). if not too complicated, will change my power supply to single transformer.
thanks :)
You can use 3-terminal fixed regulators for that application. Look for National's LM78XX series positive voltage regulator and LM79XX series negative voltage regulator for reference.
Or even a resistor, a 100uf cap, and a zener will do! ;D As long as you only power opamps though. ;)
Jojo, thanks :)
check ko sa NS at TI website yang 3-terminal fixed regulators
You can use 3-terminal fixed regulators for that application. Look for National's LM78XX series positive voltage regulator and LM79XX series negative voltage regulator for reference.
Or even a resistor, a 100uf cap, and a zener will do! ;D As long as you only power opamps though. ;)
yah, those are what i used. be careful with the pin assigments. the 78xx and the 79xx pins for input, ground and output are not the same. i toasted my 1st 7915 because i assumed it had the same pin assignment as the 7815. Charge to experience na lang, hehehe.
hey bros kakainggit talaga kayo -- konting lecture nga -please - ;D
can u please give me a tip on what kind and what is the value of the capacitor i should use to my speaker, to have better vocals ? thnks
hehe!- mahabang pag-aaral pa pala ang kelangan ko-- :-\ anyway bro jojo thnks for the advise - ;D
when i opened the speaker kasi, i just saw capacitors connected to the speakers.. what i have in mind is that, if i change the capacitors the sound may also change-- so im planning to experiment thats why m askin some basic considerations, like what will a capacitor with higher or lower value brings about? maybe something like those things-- :)
hello guys, i hav ample electronics know how but i wud to make also a diy powered sub :) ...the inexpensive route ika nga and most of all it would a learning experince for me ;)...anyway this would be my specs..
gainclone amp...my good friend S2kov told me to order some chips from TI coz its free
has variable fliter sana maybe from 40z-120hz..mahirap ba ito? can someone pls help me with the circui for this?
ill be also using 2 8" speakers....talikuran sila....front firing
and for the box and 10 by 10 lang sana like a power cube...tnx
Here's a picture of my latest HT setup, except the sub is laying down now instead of up on it's side.
http://www.alegriaaudio.com/LatestHTview.htm
Wow! Very clean! Where did you get the plactic boxes with standoffs?
what are those for? pardon my ignorance
what are those for? pardon my ignorance
Sir JojoD818,
Galing mo sir...Pwede ba magpaturo.. :)
Pwede ba pagawa ng passive for my sub? 40hz lowpass, 12db slope. Or lower mg 48hz, with 24db slope. I am pumping just 100w into my speaker. OK sakin yung clear case na yan.
Please email me at [email protected]
Almost all the electronic shops I've seen sell crossover networks and drivers. I think You can find more of them at those shops along Raon St like in Deeco. I recall seeing some at the Audiophile store at Mega a few years back.
Pwede ba pagawa ng passive for my sub? 40hz lowpass, 12db slope. Or lower mg 48hz, with 24db slope. I am pumping just 100w into my speaker. OK sakin yung clear case na yan.
Please email me at [email protected]
Hello!
It seems our DIY gurus are reluctant to share their expertise and provide a diy speaker project as I've requested in my previous post. ;D
Anyway, thanks guys!
Did I say I'd finish it today?
I did. ;D
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v70/jojod818/Dump/Gino04.jpg)
hanep talaga itong idol ko ;D
It's not a good idea to start with the box and try to find drivers to match. You should always start with the driver first then design the box (and crossover if necessary) to accomodate the driver.
all seem to agree with tim and thnks for the comments -- so does it mean that i have to ask first from the store the appropriate set of drivers and tweeters for a particular box that i want there?
what ihave in mind kasi is to buy a box, a set of 50 w 6" mid bass and a tweeter that would fit on my desired box and a crossover and ill just be the one to solder the connections== ;D
more advise please--- :) and thnks again
all seem to agree with tim and thnks for the comments -- so does it mean that i have to ask first from the store the appropriate set of drivers and tweeters for a particular box that i want there?
what ihave in mind kasi is to buy a box, a set of 50 w 6" mid bass and a tweeter that would fit on my desired box and a crossover and ill just be the one to solder the connections== ;D
more advise please--- :) and thnks again
A fellow I know shared this with me.
"A friend was visiting my wife and asked about the speakers I build. She answered, "Yes, Ed has spent thousands of dollars to build cheap speakers."
Hi!
It's not that DIYers (including me) here don't want to share info but building a speaker project is a bit complicated (tampo ka naman agad eh ;D). Choices of drivers, box configs, and even materials differes from one constructor to another.
I myself only use local drivers (dai-ichi, crown, etc) and make the most out of them. But if you have access to better sounding drivers then that's better. Tell what you have and maybe I can help you. ;)
JojoD ;D
A fellow I know shared this with me.
"A friend was visiting my wife and asked about the speakers I build. She answered, "Yes, Ed has spent thousands of dollars to build cheap speakers."
Sir Vircor, I suggest you buy a book entitled designing and testing your loudspeakers by david weeds. Cant recall the exact title of the book, locally available din yung copy. I don't have it right now but most of your questions are answered there. They have charts where you can base the optimum internal volume for your speakers, the appropriate capacitor values for your high pass x-over, and a lot more. May mga projects pa on speaker building, may 3-way din. Interesting read. Kahit na yung question mo about port meron din duon, pag medyo mahina bumayo, habaan ang port, pag sobrang boomy, iksiaan yung port or lakihan ang internal volume ng woofer, etc. Hope this helps.
DIY projects are time consuming and can be frustrating but at the same time can be very rewarding. For those who would like to follow the path taken by our diy masters, aside from some electronics know how here are what you might check first before plunging in:
- patience
- guts
- budget
- patience
- open mind
- an eye for details
- patience
- multi-tester (a must), oscilloscope, spl meter, etc.
- grounding strap or anti-static gloves (Statics can ruin your project, your day and your wallet)
- pliers, long-nose, tweezer, cutter, crimping tool, etc.
- soldering iron/gun, lead, dissoldering pump, pcb, ferric chloride, mini-drill, masking tape, etc.
- patience
- drills, jigsaw, files, sandpaper, etc. for metal and wood working needs
- diff. wires & connectors, parts, components, etc.
- others that i forgot to mention
- did i already say lots of patience? ;D
You may experience the following but they can definitely be avoided/minimized:
- Makuryente
- Mapaso
- Masugatan
- Malipasan ng gutom
- Masabugan/maputukan
- Maibato yung di mapaganang project
- Manlumo, manlambot, ma-frustrate
- Ano pa ba mga sir?
- Makuryente
- And worst, mabaliw sa di mapaganang project
But don't be afraid, one can always ask our diy masters for enlitghtenment. MABABAIT MGA YAN :)
Sir Vircor, I suggest you buy a book entitled designing and testing your loudspeakers by david weeds.
sir vircor,
among these tools, which do you need for
1)crossover designing and tweaking and
2)driver matching?
thanks!
Sir Vircor, I suggest you buy a book entitled designing and testing your loudspeakers by david weeds. Cant recall the exact title of the book, locally available din yung copy. I don't have it right now but most of your questions are answered there. They have charts where you can base the optimum internal volume for your speakers, the appropriate capacitor values for your high pass x-over, and a lot more. May mga projects pa on speaker building, may 3-way din. Interesting read. Kahit na yung question mo about port meron din duon, pag medyo mahina bumayo, habaan ang port, pag sobrang boomy, iksiaan yung port or lakihan ang internal volume ng woofer, etc. Hope this helps.
Sir, if you're serious about crossovers/filters and speakers, you may want to have a winder/rewinder and different gauges of magnetic wires coz you'll be using them a lot. An oscilloscope would be ideal specially if you're dealing with frequencies and different wave outputs.
If you can, you may want to resort first to what is called 'reversed engineering'. Observe first the particular project you want to build like a crossover. Kung meron kang loudspeaker system sa bahay at kung pwede baklasin ok din. Disassemble it then study the circuit of the filter/crossover. That's a good start to begin with.
You can find very valuable info here:
http://sound.westhost.com/articles.htm
Hope to be of little help. ;)
Yes I'm sure you can... assuming you be able to get the correct value for each component. It probably would take some tinkering, but I'm sure you can get local parts.
thanks! i guess you're right about reverse engineering. an oscilloscope and winder might be too much of an investment for a DIY newbie.
i plan to build a 2-way speaker with an 8'' bass driver with a dome tweeter.
Sir, am just saying that an oscilloscope is ideal specially in dealing with frequencies, voltage and wave outputs but is heavy on the pocket; an alternative would be a digital multimeter with frequency measurement. A
winder will be important in making your own filter/crossover, speaker, transformers, etc. and i think it's not
much expensive. Since occassional lang naman siguro ang paggawa mo ng projects, you can always let the
guys at Raon wind things up for you according to your specs or order it made by our diy masters.
Regarding your project plan, I think using an 8" driver for the mid-bass is not recommended coz there will be a
gap in the mid frequency range, which for me is very critical. In a 2-way system it is not recommended to
have a woofer larger than 7", anything larger will not faithfully reproduce the midrange frequencies with
realism, clarity and detail since a large driver (8" or greater) is designed primarily to produce bass frequencies
below 200Hz (frequency range is 20-500 Hz) and is too slow to resonate frequencies with authority in the
midrange band of 200Hz-4kHz (can you see the gap already?). I just don't know if it's okay with you the gap
I'm saying but of course you can continue with your project plan.
Just FYI:
Baffle step compensation is an increase in output from a loudspeaker as the size of the baffle becomes
significant in terms of the wavelength of sound for a range of frequencies. At low frequencies, where the
baffle (the panel the loudspeaker is mounted on) is small compared to the wavelength, the speaker is assumed
to be operating with a spherical radiation pattern. As frequency increases, the size of the baffle becomes
significant, and the spherical radiation pattern no longer applies. This is also partly to do with the loudspeaker
drivers themselves - as frequency increases, typical cone drivers become more and more directional - this
occurs as the dimensions of the cone become significant with respect to wavelength.
There's a lot of work involved in baffle step compsensation and equalisation, and unless you're very interested
and it's much of a concern, I suggest you leave it for the moment. The person replying to your query is
assuming that you understand a lot on loudspeakers and electronic stuff. Parang nagtanong ka lang kung
paano mag-mix ng dough pero gustong pag-aralan mo na yung buong baking process. ;D
Tama si sir john, mas madali kung may schematics nung crossover. Parang ganito:(http://sound.westhost.com/lrp-f51.gif)6dB/Octave 2-Way Passive Crossover
You can use 'tee nuts' instead of mounting the drivers directly to the baffle para secured yung driver, drill a hole and hammer it in (you can add some glue).(http://sound.westhost.com/tee-nut.gif)Tee Nut
So, tee nut is basically to protect the wood in case there is a frequent opening of enclosure through the speakers?
Besides that, you use the threads of the tee nut so the wood (and woofer/sub basket) is just "sandwiched" by the tee nut and the bolt. ;D
Handyman: ok sir..anong finish balak mo gawin dyan? ;D
Ganun bah!!!! :o :o :o Bakit kaya nde ganito ginawa nila sa monitor audio?
Anong wood ginamit mo? Where can I get some?
Pwede ba pagawa sayo ng box ng Focal 5" sub ko? Liit lang yun around 9.5" cube with a 1" x 3" port.
Anong wood ginamit mo? Where can I get some?
Hi guys,
Does anyone in the forum knows where I can locally purchase mdf boards here in Manila?... I'm having hard time finding one for my diy subwofer project. Mas madali kasing i cut yung mdf against plyboards Thanx :-\
sir kaya kayang palitan box ng dq12 ko?
;)
might as well sell your DQ12 and build a sub from scratch with specs and quality you want.
Toquero,
Sa Binondo, Kung nasa C.M. Recto from Rizal Ave..... mag left ka sa T. Alonzo St...then right turn sa first st...Soler St. ata yon....may mga lumber store sa right side pag nasa Soler St. ka na...di ko matandaan yung panngalan ng tindahan..di ka aabot sa tulay. :)
thanx alot I think I can manage to roam aroand that area.
Finally, here's my finished eBONi...
Thanks Tim :)
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0QwDxAv0SOmnuHD31D96BZ1XHoo2Cg9MwlN3Z8OlqkIlu9jsS1hlZiNxMmhaxNJnX0UohYj289Nl1Rc3kbc7*bse1P9bsfn6c5Yo8Jd!2Bdg/167e_01.jpg?dc=4675487971418257705 )
Cool 8) Are those the B20s? What's the rest of the number...52..something...something...? Anyway, where did the design come from? Can you share the details?
congrats on your new project handyman, looks like a good match with a 2a3 amp >:D
Hey bro Handyman, just curious about the lamination--- ::) me process ba pag laminate ng mga boxes mo? thnks
handyman,
excellent woodmanship pre. ;D
nice meeting you at the fair.
Sir Jerix, you can buy the lumber as is.. called laminated pinewood, they are actually factory joined pieces of pinewood. if you are referring to finish..i use polyurethane for the finish using either brush or cloth.
Not adviseable from my view.. Drivers meant for air suspension type baffles may not perform as well or better in a ported enclosures. The driver compliance is often matched to the baffle volume and resonance traits so that putting a port will not necessarily enhance the efficiency or the LF extension. There is also such a thing as tuning the port using different tube lengths and port sizes that are derived from some equations in speaker designs ordinarily using computer aided design software. Let this not dampen your tweaking efforts, just don't expect dramatic improvements, if at all. Anyway, you can always cover up the hole if it doesn't work. ;D Just my thoughts.
Mr. Tim -- or anybody ;D
I got a non-ported surplus speaker and being non-ported, it is alil bit hard to drive--- so,, i am thinkin of drilling a hole in its back panel -- maybe 2" wide to allow flow of air... what do u think guys, will this work? thnks ;D
Bon, Tim,
Could you please PM/Email me the whereabouts of Alegria Audio.
Thanks!
sir,
mukhang my masama kang balak ah, share mo namn sakin.... ibulong mo lng pra d nila madinig >:D
handyman,
musta ml tl?
Subwoofer Project - Tempest Low Q EnclosureThat looks very familiar. ;D The LowQ Sealed Adire Tempest Subwoofer is an excellent choice. 8)
sir,
mukhang my masama kang balak ah, share mo namn sakin.... ibulong mo lng pra d nila madinig >:D
Hmmm....... anong balak yan? Malamang speaker...nasa Speakers thread kasi eh... hmmm ::)
Jo,
Thanks :)
3/4" marine ply ang ginamit ko...tapos babalutan ko sya ng 3/4" pinewood for finishing.
Mabangis talagang sub to, 15" ang woofer, 250 watts ang amp, cabinet halos kasing taas ng wharfs 8.4 ko.
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0RQCdAlQVsvRJRj814J3m8wg3utDlDarVtEO0*Y2UjhbQ!Y1feg1l!fZwV94w!gpJmH6HBtx0PaF2*!!Kp9UWn3DRYRcP0Y7Z6JGR!NR4!3s/2_tempest.jpg?dc=4675501522625189524)
Wow, it's taking shape na ah! Mas malaki pala sya sa Titan II, at ang laki din ng driver!
Walang kawala yun mga side panels sa bracing mo bro. ;)
Keep us posted! ;D
Jo,
here's the link for the cabinet design...actually natest ko na sya kagabi, kahit kulang pa ang stuffing at temporary pa ang top panel.
http://www.acoustic-visions.com/~acoustic/products/subwoofer_drivers/adire_15_tempest/sealedtempest.pdf
Most of the better commercials subs out there use 700-1000 watts RMS amps. Maybe such amps can really optimize the tempest design. But for its 12" woofer and baffle size, baka overkill na yung high wattage amps.
Handyman,
Galeng naman ng sub na yan! Siguro gumagawa ng mini theatre yung owner nyan :o
at 250w using a 15" driver, it really needs a large room.
Bawal pala sa mga mahina ang weak lungs yang sub na yan ;D ;D
Handyman,
Galeng naman ng sub na yan! Siguro gumagawa ng mini theatre yung owner nyan :o
at 250w using a 15" driver, it really needs a large room.
Wow! Can you give me a price range of these "batter commercial subs" that are out there?
Could these probably be Class B or D amps? Pero kakagigil naman yun 1000W, as long as RMS and not PMPO. ;D
Wow! Ganda wood spikes mo Bon! Para na pala mini-fridge ano? So how's the sound bro? I love gypsum screws too you know. ;D
bros, do u have a way to turn a 6 ohms speaker into 8 ohms, without opening it? salamat po!
Why? Are you concerned that your amp is rated for 8 ohms and the speaker says it's a 6 ohm? The rating is a "nominal" resistance. Speakers are dynamic, not static resistance. A 6 or 8 ohm rating is just the average. The actual resistance will change with frequency. It could be as high as 40 ohms or as low as 3 ohms at different points. Chances are, if you have a solid state amp rated for 8 ohms and the speaker is 6 ohms it will probably play fine. If you're worried you could put a 2 ohm resistor (or even higher) on the positive terminal of the speaker but this may change the way the speaker sounds. However, it may be a change for the better!
;D
Thanks..tama ka parang mini frigde..kasamang ibinigay ng may ari sa akin yung spikes...pinatorno nya.
Ganda both movies and audio...di ko kayang tagalan ng malakas ang volume....para na kong naghahamon ng away sa kapitbahay. ;D
hintayin na lang natin yung may-ari ang magkuwento pag nasa kanya na... ;D
;D ;D ;D ;D
Baka pag Saving Private Ryan and panonoorin mo biglang dumapa ang mga kapitbahay at akalaing bumalik na ang mga hapon! ;D ;D ;D ;D
Congrats sa owner nyan sub na yan, sana madinig namin in the future. May pics na ba finished product Bon?
Why? Are you concerned that your amp is rated for 8 ohms and the speaker says it's a 6 ohm? The rating is a "nominal" resistance. Speakers are dynamic, not static resistance. A 6 or 8 ohm rating is just the average. The actual resistance will change with frequency. It could be as high as 40 ohms or as low as 3 ohms at different points. Chances are, if you have a solid state amp rated for 8 ohms and the speaker is 6 ohms it will probably play fine. If you're worried you could put a 2 ohm resistor (or even higher) on the positive terminal of the speaker but this may change the way the speaker sounds. However, it may be a change for the better!
Jo, nasubukan ko na Saving Private Ryan...di ko malakasan eh...nadinig na rin ng may ari last sunday. Sana nga may pagkakataon kayong marinig..
Di ko pa sya nafinish...mag post ako ng pics pag tapos ko na...
Merry Christmas Bro... :)
Merry Christmas everyone!
(http://www.alegriaaudio.com/nightreeW.jpg)
HAPPY HOLIDAYS!
Mga bossing help naman. I have this 100w 8ohms class-A stereo amplifier, gusto ko sana mag-setup ng 3way speakers para d2. Ano ang ma-rerecommend nyo na wattage ng woofer, mid-range and tweeter para sa ganitong set-up? Ok ba kung ang crossover network ko d2 ay yung mga ready-made na, tulad ng nabibili sa daiichi?
Thanks!
HAPPY HOLIDAYS!
Mga bossing help naman. I have this 100w 8ohms class-A stereo amplifier, gusto ko sana mag-setup ng 3way speakers para d2. Ano ang ma-rerecommend nyo na wattage ng woofer, mid-range and tweeter para sa ganitong set-up? Ok ba kung ang crossover network ko d2 ay yung mga ready-made na, tulad ng nabibili sa daiichi?
Thanks!
2. I hope I'm understanding your question correctly. I apologize if I misunderstand. To replace a driver within an existing system requires finding one with the same electrical/mechanical specifications as the original design. Resistance (ohms) and wattage (power handling capability) are not the critical specifications to gauge this with. The only 4" driver I currently stock is the Fostex FE127E (closer to 4.5") but it is a full-range driver usually put into single driver enclosures.
How much kaya yung mga drivers na ganyan???? I want to build one.
Php4200 each at http://www.pi.alegriaaudio.com/prod02.htm
There is no crossover, however, the design alabanjo built uses a BSC (baffle step compensation) network and a Zobel (impedance correction) circuit. This can lower efficiency about 3 db but it's still efficient enough that a 12 watt amp has no trouble driving it.
Bernard...Congrats bro!.. :)
eto naman yung 3" Tangband drivers... ;D
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0QQAmA48THoMCK68CTJcnfMIawLEuS5!XEtvD8eoZmiqzgfOm!!2D22*1vJukrtgmB2MFGzQnEz4*lTSwmmz4RNZxi4dnR94VRKymHEGDKX4/bert1.jpg?dc=4675505287784483397)
Thanks a lot. I saw in the website that there is construction plan for the speaker box, which I can make. This will be my next project.
how much tangband drivers 3" upto 6.5" including crossovers for which ? where to buy too? thanks.
single-driver or assisted single-driver system.
how much are the fostex fe167e drivers? where to get it locally?
alabonjo,
how much are the fostex fe167e drivers? where to get it locally?
also, based on the write-up by bob brines, this single-driver speaker is designed for music, as he didn't mention its performance in relation to movies or ht.
have u tried your set in ht? hows the performance? i'm planning to use it as fronts for my ht.
thanks.
I am using Fostex FE207e's on my BOiNk...i use them as fronts for my HT...very good for both music and movies...
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0RwDOFtgV4x6O80BgUjp0UyD!r5w5begrdWvE!NNw*jxzC1KofxthoXWvItQODE3j*asupNIonb5wrrHc4mMjVs*zV5q48Lf5Hlr3WeI6*A8/Ambel_Boink.jpg?dc=4675498775619782504)
Hey Bon.
Did you put the downfiring port in the BOiNk that we talked about?
10% off Fostex drivers at AlegriaAudio.Com
See this thread for details.
http://www.pinoydvd.com/board/index.php?topic=31152.0
I tend to disregard any beliefs in the mystical properties of speaker wire. I've seen too many cases of zip cord being disguised as "boutique" cable and yet believed by "experts" to be better than "regular" cable. However, in the case of full range drivers I have personally experienced the benefit of using small gauge, single strand, solid core wire as speaker wire. I think this can be explained as providing increased resistance which Nelson Pass has shown to be beneficial.
http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/firstwatt/firstwatt_2.html
Here's another fun little project I just finished. I built this as a PC speaker but it's good enough to use in a small stereo or surround sound system. It uses the Aurasound NS3-193-8A 3" extended range driver. Sounds really good for a little box.
(http://www.timn8er.com/AuraNS3F.jpg)
For more info visit my hobby website at http://www.timn8er.com
saan po available yung Aurasound NS3-193-8A 3" and how much po?
thanks po. when?
I may be able to get a few brought over in balikbayan boxes. Probably P1400 each.Is there by any chance that you could brought here in manila speaker accessories like flared ports and subwoofer driver (10" dayton driver) if ever how much would it cost me... ;D I was planning to start my second DIY subwoofer project but due to availability of materials It always put on hold. :-\ I've once used aura sub drivers for my subwoofer and it performs good considering it's design simplicity..... ;)
Bros,
Is the MDF board available in most hardwares, and how much per board?
How about the ZIP CORD can i buy that in electrical shops, how much din per meter? tnx ;D
Hey guys I have an old SONY speakers, the enclosure pretty solid, but the sound is terrible. I am planning to change the tweeters / woofers and x-overs.. any suggestion were to get woofers and tweeters ... I Can fit at most 6.5 inch woofer.
i buy 3/4" mdf from Seato, cor ng 20th ave. and tuazon sa Cubao, P950 per board 8ftx4ft.'
Plywood is preferred because of it's stiffness. To reduce vibration the preferred method is bracing. Adding foam, polyester, wool, felt, etc., may absorb some upper frequencies to reduce their output at the port but does nothing for panel vibrations.
I should re-phrase that. The reason for wanting stiffness and adding bracing is to raise the resonance frequency of a vibrating panel high enough that it doesn't interfere with the sound of the speaker.
Plywood is preferred because of it's stiffness. To reduce vibration the preferred method is bracing. Adding foam, polyester, wool, felt, etc., may absorb some upper frequencies to reduce their output at the port but does nothing for panel vibrations.
I should re-phrase that. The reason for wanting stiffness and adding bracing is to raise the resonance frequency of a vibrating panel high enough that it doesn't interfere with the sound of the speaker.
Zip cord - same as flat cord in electrical appliances. However, for speakers, these are speaker wires that look like flat cords, with one wire striped or color coded. These wires come in either black or transparent insulation, with varying sizes. You can buy 'em in any electronic shops
Tempest 15" Sub, Amp 250W, dim:35"x25"x25" :)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v692/BonDizon/docsub.jpg)
saan po available yung Aurasound NS3-193-8A 3" and how much po?Alegria Audio will have a limited supply of these drivers available March 1. P1350 each.
mga sir ask ko lang kung pwede ko ba ipang drive ng passive na subwoofer yung ordinary na amp?
Hi.
What would additional damping material such as fiber fill, fiber pad or foam to the inside walls and corners of the speakers do to the sound? Extended bass?
Is there a way to increase a speaker's sensitivity rating short of replacing the drivers?
Thanks !
need help guys,
im about to build a HT subwoofer, have anyone seen a 21" subwoofer driver, meron na ba naka gawa sa inyo dito ng ganitong kalaki subwoofer? i need your advice before I purchase one sa raon.
I intent to use either sealed or vented box enclosure for this sub with sir jojo's DIY amp. by the way its for my future HT upgrades...
need your reviews and opinions, thanks!!!
This is a 21" x 21" x 25" sealed box for 15" Tempest.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v692/BonDizon/Tempest_jr.jpg)
Guys, i need help. Where can i buy subwoofer amp plate? I am planning to build a 12" subwoofer. And what is the most affordable driver that is decent enough for the sub? Thanks.
need help guys,
im about to build a HT subwoofer, have anyone seen a 21" subwoofer driver, meron na ba naka gawa sa inyo dito ng ganitong kalaki subwoofer? i need your advice before I purchase one sa raon.
I intent to use either sealed or vented box enclosure for this sub with sir jojo's DIY amp. by the way its for my future HT upgrades...
need your reviews and opinions, thanks!!!
meron ako 24' 2 pcs pa yung isanaka box na...
I hook the floorstanding speaker in our pioneer amp. it blew the amp away it suddenly shut off and and wont start anymore. it blew the amp when i played the MTX Tweeter and Bass Tester which goes from 20Hz to 20000KHz
sir JOJO thank you for the help nga pla.
i havent tested it yet all together kc wla pko receiver i'll try to come up with the money, i wanted to buy THE SAKURA AV5024.
I hook the floorstanding speaker in our pioneer amp. it blew the amp away it suddenly shut off and and wont start anymore. it blew the amp when i played the MTX Tweeter and Bass Tester which goes from 20Hz to 20000KHz
the woofer was good parang nka subs kna, the highs were also better than before when i used a daiici horn tweeter (ht-114) it over powered the whole set up. and the midrange cleared the combination of the tweeters and the woofer the voices are much audible.
hopefully makabili nko ng receiver so i can test it all.
tada!!! sir jojo to the rescue, galing yaan... ;)
sir hans i'm using a dividing network so wiring is not like that.
ilang watts po b ung pc speaker. dun ko kc una tnest ung mga speakers ko pinutol ko lng ung original na speaker. ung instant amp na.
yup un po. ung una ung pioneer amp went it blew up dun naman sa pc speakers test ko lng if tutunog. ngayon sakura po gamit k av5024 kso hindi pla ito dts, 5 channel lng inegrated na amp. left and right audio lang needed 5.1 na.
pero ok din po eto khit hindi dd or dts kc 7 ung speaker out nyapuwede mag 7.1 setup. hehehe wala nga .1 pero meron siya out for powered sub.
sana dumating ang araw na may DD or DTS na yan sakura and konzert amps (o meron na?). so far they are just deriving from left/right channels.
I'm using Konzert Av600r, its already have DD/DTS output from 5.1 analog input...
Ayan and maganda, dapat separate ang 5 channels.
So dapat may DD/DTS decoder yun dvd player right?
ilang watts po ung konzert 600r meron po b ito a/b selector or tlagang 5.1 lng?. meron na prologic av5024 just push the surround button for sr,sl, and c speakers to activate.
Brian,
Yan ang gusto ko bro. Dati kasi I was planning on building a 5-channel tubed gainclone for HT kaso wala ako makita 5-ganged pot para sa volume. ayan tuloy 2.1 pa din ako. ;D ;D ;D
cheers
Thanks Sirs. :)
Jo, family tradition pala ang audio sa inyo. 2 Generations of audio diy'ers / tweakers . :)
I dont know if this is true, but some put in line a small bulb together with a 2.2 mf 50v capacitor. The bulb is similar to those of a christmass tree lights. someone told me that this is to cut off shear brightness from tweeter. due to the inherit high sensitivity. some even told me it produces a balanced spectrum between the tweeters and mid woofer...
-----------------(- ) tweeter (+)-----2.2mf 50V capacitor-----bulb------
just like to share my 90% done 5.0 speakers this only cost me 9K materials and labor = (for capentry of the box)
maybe 10k if fully finished
5 tweeters
ULTRA UT 108
2 Midrange
Crystal Mobile Audio CS 504M
8 Woofers Daiichi
2 6" PRO-PW-65D
2 6" PRO-PW-65DS
4 8" PRO-PW-90D
Yo!
Anyone know where I can find flared port tubes? I need 2pcs 4" diameter opening.
Also if anyone has any info on where I can find those black neoprene tapes, I need 'em for sealing my sub plateamp to the sub box.
Thanks!
u can buy them sa banawe sa mga car audio shops but the price is steep. it's about 1k per pair ba yon or each.
better diy nalang as u are a good diy'er. check this site:
http://www.users.bigpond.com/bcolliso/flares-25mm.htm
sir jojoD,
natapos na ba ang hi-end plate amp design mo?
5 tweeters
ULTRA UT 108
200php each add 10php each for capacitor nabili ko to sa penny lane sa 600 evangelista cor. g. puyat
2 Midrange
Crystal Mobile Audio CS 504M
430php. sa megamall ko to nbili daiichi showroom. wala ako mahanp nito sa raon.
8 Woofers Daiichi
2 6" PRO-PW-65D 450 daiichi showroom megamall
2 6" PRO-PW-65DS 350 lindrix 611 stall 7-a raon shopping center
4 8" PRO-PW-90D 460 cherubim 674 ronquillo
extras.
2 dividing network. 275php each miyama 300watts. deeco
retailed in 1995 500 usd ngaion meron ngbebenta nito 1500 usd each pa. parang ginto.
sir hans kaya natin gayahin un pero kalangan natin ng powers ni sir jojod for the electronics. pero kung nagtitpid tau eto esimate ko.
4 midrange 430x4=1720
2 tweeters 200x2=400
1 sub 2200x1=2200
2 dividing network 275x2=550
1 LPF 240x1=240
1 mdf 950x2=1900
bindingpost 50x1=50
wires etc. 100x1=100
screws 200x1=200
total 7360
e2 link for specs.
http://ecoustics.audioreview.com/cat/audioreview/speakers/floorstanding-speakers/definitive-technology/PRD_120912_1594crx.aspx
http://www.definitivetech.com/loudspeakers/powertower/bp2000.html
http://cplist.citypages.com/adimgs/c9a70a64fa8becd25ff7d1c412f71b90BP2000%20Front.jpg
sir mixx
panay pang PA ung plans dun eh but thanx for the link i'm looking for that site for some time kc i'm planning to build new sub enclosure pero bili muna ko bass shaker.
congrats hans.. sana makita at madinig ka yan ng personal ;D ;D
btw nabili ko na yung JBL GTO 1502, ready for intallation na lang, will have pics as soon as installed na...
aba dapat kinakabit na yan at ng nadidinig na. :o
tapos review ha.... ;)
darn! hindi fit yung JBL sa mounting, ipapamodify ko pa yung box...
yun JBL ang dalhin mo sa machine shop para mabawasan :P :P :P
ANG TAGAL TALAGA! ;D ;D ;D
dagdag gastos hay! magkano naman kaya singil ng craftsman nito, malaki pala yung frame ng JBL makapal unlike sa DTX stamped metal lang, etong JBL alloy yata to eh, ang laki pa ng magnet...
Hindi ba kaya ng wood file ? ???... yung sa dynaquest ko kasi ,yung 3 edges lang ang masikip nakuha ko lang sa wood file ;D
wala kasi akong wood file saka baka masira ko yung asthetics nung box (vinyl cover), papagawa ko nalang sa expert craftsman, yung sa mounting ng DTX pag tnry ko i fit lahat masikip. eh hindi ko alam kung ano ang babawasan. baka pag ako gumawa hindi ko ma center... :-\
sir, baka makatulong...
yung box ang bawasan mo, kaya ng wood rasp yan (wood file)....mark mo muna yung dapat mong bawasan, tanggalin mo muna yung vinyl na dapat tanggalin using blade cutter para malinis. tapos i-file mo na..mas mabilis kung wood rasp ang gagamitin mo.
wala kasi akong wood file saka baka masira ko yung asthetics nung box (vinyl cover), papagawa ko nalang sa expert craftsman, yung sa mounting ng DTX pag tnry ko i fit lahat masikip. eh hindi ko alam kung ano ang babawasan. baka pag ako gumawa hindi ko ma center... :-\
may metal file ka?
kikilin mo na lang yung JBL para magkasya, tago naman siya, di tulad ng box ;D
si hans, pag natapos mo yan baka pwede sched natin kung kailan pwede namin madinig yan ng personal ;D
bro, ano balita.. ok na ba sub mo?
ala pa yung box bro hindi ko pa nakikita yung gumagawa...
I just started building a pair of small tower sealed bipole using the 4" Fostex FE127E.
The design was based on this: http://ca.geocities.com/gmilitano/Speakers/FE127E_SB/FE127E_SB.htm
The baffles would be 3/4" MDF that will be painted black, the sides of the speakers would be solid narra.
Here are narra slabs being planed (left over from our kitchen cabinets):
(http://www.filehigh.com/serve/19211/221624.jpg)
Here are the MDF baffles:
(http://www.filehigh.com/serve/19211/221625.jpg)
Here are the baffles glued and screwed to the braces:
(http://www.filehigh.com/serve/19211/221626.jpg)
The four Fostex FE127E will arrive on Thursday, I will post more pictures.
These speakers will be driven by two modified t-amps (bi-amped) and a tube pre-amp, creations of Master JojoD.
I cant see the pix, its typically firewall blocked on our setup. Is this the same reference full range project variation by dave (planet10) of diyaudio? I am considering the monopole because of footprint.
Parang hindi.
I have a pair of Wharfedale Valdus 100 which is very old already and i'm using this with a T-amp. It is a bookshelf type speaker. Yung plastic laminate nya ay natatanggal na at yung mdf box ay malutong na. But the drivers are still ok. May konti akong alam sa carpentry at gusto kong gumawa na bagong speaker box para dito. Gusto ko yung parang tower enclosure na payat pero sealed. BTW ang sukat ng mga drivers ay 3/4" ang tweeters at 5" ang mid/woofers. Meron ba kayong maire-recommend na design at ano ang magandang materiales na gamitin? TIA.
The internal dimensions are exactly the same, same driver placement, same driver, except the construction sequence is different. On Gio's construction, he started with the speaker sides and he glued the rear baffle last. On my construction, I glued the front and rear baffle first and the sides last (this has something to do with the finish I wanted). So basically, it is the same design.
What you can do is measure the internal volume of your current speaker cabinet, then try to design a tower cabinet with the same internal volume so the sound will not be much affected.
If you the T/S parameters of the drivers then you can download WinISD to compute for the speaker dimension.
The best material to use is MDF, apparently, it reduces resonance inside the box.
I will try to get the T/S parameter for your drivers, if I find it, I will give you WinISD's dimensions you can use.
Hi alexg. My reply was for aHobbit :) I thought his post was the last so I didn't quote. Sorry for the confusion.
Wow :o Thanks dude, will appreciate it very much ;)
Can you take pictures of your Valdus and measure the dimensions? Apparently, Wharfedale produced several versions of this model. ::)
I just started building a pair of small tower sealed bipole using the 4" Fostex FE127E.
The design was based on this: http://ca.geocities.com/gmilitano/Speakers/FE127E_SB/FE127E_SB.htm
The baffles would be 3/4" MDF that will be painted black, the sides of the speakers would be solid narra.
Here are narra slabs being planed (left over from our kitchen cabinets):
(http://www.filehigh.com/serve/19211/221624.jpg)
Here are the MDF baffles:
(http://www.filehigh.com/serve/19211/221625.jpg)
Here are the baffles glued and screwed to the braces:
(http://www.filehigh.com/serve/19211/221626.jpg)
The four Fostex FE127E will arrive on Thursday, I will post more pictures.
These speakers will be driven by two modified t-amps (bi-amped) and a tube pre-amp, creations of Master JojoD.
...
This afternoon, I connected the unfinished speakers (without the damping materials) to my two sonic impact t-amps. The sound is a bit brilliant and forward. Fostex users have said that I need to break-in the drivers for at least 100 hours. Compared to my AR Status 40, these DIY fostex without the break-in already sound better. Bass is tighter, but of course, it need a subwoofer for frequency lower than 80Hz.
Vocals is to die for.
Fitted the speakers on the cabinets:
(http://www.filehigh.com/serve/19211/225433.jpg)
(http://www.filehigh.com/serve/19211/225434.jpg)
This afternoon, I connected the unfinished speakers (without the damping materials) to my two sonic impact t-amps. The sound is a bit brilliant and forward. Fostex users have said that I need to break-in the drivers for at least 100 hours. Compared to my AR Status 40, these DIY fostex without the break-in already sound better. Bass is tighter, but of course, it need a subwoofer for frequency lower than 80Hz.
Vocals is to die for.
Ahh those lovely Tee nuts... when I hear those I remember this beautiful chinese lady at T. Mapua St. where I bought my Tee nuts.... ;D
On a technical note, woofers and subs installation benefit a lot using Tee nuts rather than just using machine/wood screws. The price is less than P5 per set (bolt & Tee nut).
Sir Jojo,
Saan itong T. Mapua st.? Meron ba sa raon nitong tee nuts?
Tnx
Tee nuts are available in stores that sell screws, nuts and bolts. You can check Tu Suy Hardware or Screwmaster hardware, w/c I think are also along that street. It's just a short walk from the LRT station, along Recto. There are also branches of Screwmaster in Pasay (along EDSA, near the MRT Taft station) Cubao and San Juan.
Hope this helps.
What you can do is measure the internal volume of your current speaker cabinet, then try to design a tower cabinet with the same internal volume so the sound will not be much affected.
If you the T/S parameters of the drivers then you can download WinISD to compute for the speaker dimension.
The best material to use is MDF, apparently, it reduces resonance inside the box.
I will try to get the T/S parameter for your drivers, if I find it, I will give you WinISD's dimensions you can use.
my ultimate dynamite diy speaker im using drivers unit JBL L-123 woofer,Electro voice 1823m mid horn,meridian audax horn tweeter and siemens 2.2mf caps for the EV from jbl cap using for Audax horn and jensen big coil for the woofer sound great for me with vintage big baffles :o
mga kuya,, hehe
need your help.. a simple subwoofer box for my 15" woofer. tuned at 39 to 60hz yung pang high freq aka tight pounding bass.
i asked pilyo regarding this, and he told me na yung enlcosure nya is subok na for low freq aka gapang bass. lamang. called it streetbass..
so ang aim ko po dito is pang musical.. i got this info also on his site about amp and enclosure.
yung kahit simple lang po.. sana may makatulong.. e'ttuned daw po iyon.. pano po???
hehehe, wrong type... 2 pcs of 6" sub dapat yun... ;D
time to give this thread a new lease on life: ;D
just want to share my diy speakers which i built at around 1990....
4way system with diy'ed passive crossover
woofer is a Westwell 15 inches, low mid is a 12inch Hukotone, high mid is a 2inch soft cloth dome, and dome tweeters....
baffle dimensions are 44inches H x 21inches W x 17 inches deep...
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y155/leoman53/diy%20speaker/110830a-014.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y155/leoman53/diy%20speaker/110830a-015.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y155/leoman53/diy%20speaker/110830a-016.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y155/leoman53/diy%20speaker/110830a-017.jpg)
a look at the cross-over network at the back:
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y155/leoman53/diy%20speaker/110830a-018.jpg)
inside the cross-over box:
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y155/leoman53/diy%20speaker/110830a-019.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y155/leoman53/diy%20speaker/110830a-020.jpg)
WOW pang new year to sir Tony!
^napapalitan yung surrounds nyan.....kaysa bumile ka ng bago, pwede pa marepair yan....
Ito na sir ang hitsura ng mga woofer
(http://img594.imageshack.us/img594/503/09062011133.jpg)
(http://img813.imageshack.us/img813/3596/09062011134.jpg)
(http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/9008/09062011135.jpg)
...
Good day :)small speakers repair shops can replace the cone and edge at a very low cost, di nga lang malinis ang gawa. kung gusto mo malinis pagkagawa try http://www.pinoydvd.com/index.php/topic,33445.0.html mas malapit kaysa kina anthony
Meron po kaya nagRerepair ng within Quezon City lang po? ;D
Well not entirely DIY, but I'm trying to replace the tiny wiring (with a much higher gauge wire) inside the cabinet of my Euros6. I could not replace the wiring without removing the driver, problem is that the entire driver housing is glued tightly to the cabinet. How can I remove the drivers without damaging both the cabinet and the driver?bakit nga ba gusto mong palitan ng mas manipis na wire?
Ive seen the wiring as I was able to successfully removed the terminal posts at the back of the FS. I was surprised the wires are a lot thinner than my former Nextbase HTiB. I was contemplating on improving the sound of my Euros6 FS, first thing is to replace the wiring, then (probably) replace the crossover parts with better parts (i.e. auricap)
hayaan mo sya, dun sya masaya.... :D opinion nya yon...... ;)
this about enjoyment, if doing that gives him satisfaction and fullfilment, then let him be...... ;D ;D ;D
sinabi ko yon? :D :D :D ;)HEHE One more thing sir,kung balak mong ibenta in the future,yung re-sell value nya,minsan kasi yung buyers ayaw sa mga items na kinalikot na hehehe
oo nga, kung saan ka masaya, pero ang sa akin paalala lang, pag kinalikot mo yung speakers mo na hindi naman sira, at hindi ka masayahan paano na? sige na nga payag na..... :D :D :D
the topic makes me wonder about corp r&d versus individual diy. if the single diy'er can claim his work sounds better, then the research group should be totally eliminated in the development and manufacturing equation. if good sound is dependent on one's subjective perception, then r&d is almost negligible.
does fabricated sound have international standards?
how do speaker diy'ers tweak the sound, by ear?
My question is as simple as this: How can I remove the glued drivers from the cabinet without destroying both the cabinet and the driver? The answers I got are relatively OT, while some are trying to flame-bait as if they knew me (Well I havent sold anything here in PDVD not even a tiny plug, much more sell a floor stander). If you knew someone who does that then pls dont stereotype everyone that they will follow the same path.brader, yung euros6 ko kasi eh akala ko eh naka glue nung una kong tinanggal yung driver, pero konting kalikot lang ng flat na screw driver eh natanggal na sya, try mong hatakin dahan dahan or tungkabin mong dahan dahan. sobrang batangenyo yta ang pagkakasabi ko. ;D okay lang na palitan mo ng wires na much thicker, pero mukhang di advisable na palitan ng crossover, kung cross over parts eh okay lang, kaso masyadong malaki ang nakalagay na caps sa woofer and mid drivers, 20uf plus. anyway, madami na kasing gumawa nyan, sorry if na-stereotype ka bro, matatanda na kasi yung karamihan ng tao dito sa pdvd kaya napagdaanan na nila yan. kadalasan kasi eh ganun ang nangyayari, naibebenta din, pero di ko sinasabi na ibebenta mo, malaki lang yung chances na mangyari yun especially kapag may mga taong manghawa sayo ng SARS, pero nasasayo yan, si sir Tony T kasi eh kaydami dami ng speakers na narinig at kaydami dami ng amp na ginawa, pero he still prefers his unmodified Euros 6 because he is satisfied with the sound it produces. kaya nga ang dami ko ng naibenta dahil mayat mayaeh kalikot ako ng kalikot, at the end, i prefer speakers without cross over.
I also implied I probably (or might) replace some x'over parts (see the difference). I was just stunned by how tiny the wires were, so I think I had to rewire.
^di ka ba nalugi nung ibinenta mo? nabawi mo ba yung ginastos?di naman lugi..... luging lugi lang! :'(
Ok many thanks for the reply. I'll try all over again the next weekend. It made no sense kasi for me that the internal wirings inside the cabinet were small while we used a much thicker wire from the Onkyo to the speakers.
If maliliit lang din nman ang wires from the terminal post to the x'over/drivers then there's no point in buying a thick wire for the AVR to speaker.
Regarding the caps of the x'over, I'll check 1st what I can do (dont worry I worked for almost a decade sa Semicon Burn-in test for Military/DOD & Medical, I knew electronic parts like I know myself). I probably will replace those parts with same/similar values but of better quality. You probably replaced those caps with a much higher value therefore changing the characteristics of the x'over thats out of the frequency range of the driver(s).
brader, yung euros6 ko kasi eh akala ko eh naka glue nung una kong tinanggal yung driver, pero konting kalikot lang ng flat na screw driver eh natanggal na sya, try mong hatakin dahan dahan or tungkabin mong dahan dahan. sobrang batangenyo yta ang pagkakasabi ko. ;D okay lang na palitan mo ng wires na much thicker, pero mukhang di advisable na palitan ng crossover, kung cross over parts eh okay lang, kaso masyadong malaki ang nakalagay na caps sa woofer and mid drivers, 20uf plus. anyway, madami na kasing gumawa nyan, sorry if na-stereotype ka bro, matatanda na kasi yung karamihan ng tao dito sa pdvd kaya napagdaanan na nila yan. kadalasan kasi eh ganun ang nangyayari, naibebenta din, pero di ko sinasabi na ibebenta mo, malaki lang yung chances na mangyari yun especially kapag may mga taong manghawa sayo ng SARS, pero nasasayo yan, si sir Tony T kasi eh kaydami dami ng speakers na narinig at kaydami dami ng amp na ginawa, pero he still prefers his unmodified Euros 6 because he is satisfied with the sound it produces. kaya nga ang dami ko ng naibenta dahil mayat mayaeh kalikot ako ng kalikot, at the end, i prefer speakers without cross over.
I worked for almost a decade sa Semicon Burn-in test for Military/DOD & Medical, I knew electronic parts like I know myself
pero he still prefers his unmodified Euros 6 because he is satisfied with the sound it produces
My question is as simple as this: How can I remove the glued drivers from the cabinet without destroying both the cabinet and the driver? The answers I got are relatively OT, while some are trying to flame-bait as if they knew me (Well I havent sold anything here in PDVD not even a tiny plug, much more sell a floor stander). If you knew someone who does that then pls dont stereotype everyone that they will follow the same path.your drivers are not glued. may dowels lang na mahigpit ang kapit yang moulding, but removable. insert and twist an old credit card or plastic ID between the plastic moulding and the baffle. pag umangat na use thicker objects, like a flat screwdriver as shrek said. with care you can remove it without damage. then makikita mo na ang screws that hold the drivers.
I also implied I probably (or might) replace some x'over parts (see the difference). I was just stunned by how tiny the wires were, so I think I had to rewire.
+1 ;D
i like the Eoros6 because price performance ratio is indeed very good, we have done listening tests with others speaker sets and indeed it can hold its own...... 8)
Hehehehe! What i mean is matanda na sa audio, pero BATA pa ang edad! Hehehe! ;D me and my stupid tongue!
oo nga sir, matatanda na kasi sila eh... :D :D :D
sorry OT, can't help it... ;D ;D ;D
Well not entirely DIY, but I'm trying to replace the tiny wiring (with a much higher gauge wire) inside the cabinet of my Euros6. I could not replace the wiring without removing the driver, problem is that the entire driver housing is glued tightly to the cabinet. How can I remove the drivers without damaging both the cabinet and the driver?
the topic makes me wonder about corp r&d versus individual diy. if the single diy'er can claim his work sounds better, then the research group should be totally eliminated in the development and manufacturing equation. if good sound is dependent on one's subjective perception, then r&d is almost negligible.
does fabricated sound have international standards?
how do speaker diy'ers tweak the sound, by ear?
I also implied I probably (or might) replace some x'over parts (see the difference). I was just stunned by how tiny the wires were, so I think I had to rewire.
What's important is you enjoy the music and not enjoy the components ---- OR Listen to the music and not listen to the components......
my theory since day 1......but some people would like to learn the hard way and see for themselves, instead of listening to those who have been there before.... 8)
in this hobby, there are lots of hypes...... :D
Yup, right.ingat lang dapat! i remember toasting an amp during my early speaker building/tweaking days, naikabit ko kasi capacitor across the crossover input instead of after the inductor. i literally saw sparks flying inside my amp! taught me to be a lot more careful.
Baka naman some of them really just want to experience the path that we took. On the other hand kasi, for me, nag-enjoy din ako sa mga discoveries from the mistakes and successes. Sometimes din, masarap yung nag-experiment and get the results, whether bad or good.
And, for that, our role naman is just to share our exeprience as part of our due diligence for the community. I just hope that they take it constructively. In the end, it's up to them....iba iba naman ang hilig eh.
The DIY guy does not have a fix budget to improve the quality of the product, the R&D are working on a certain budget.very true. but what if the diy is made to be marketed and sold?
ingat lang dapat! i remember toasting an amp during my early speaker building/tweaking days, naikabit ko kasi capacitor across the crossover input instead of after the inductor. i literally saw sparks flying inside my amp! taught me to be a lot more careful.
very true. but what if the diy is made to be marketed and sold?
hehe i know it's no longer diy per se but you might get what i mean. :D
True..very truelangya ka joey ginawa mo pa 'kong elder! ;D
Kaya..... listen and respect the elders. Tiyak na may mapupulot kayo. I owe my achievements in my career to the seniors/elders to whom I have listen to (including ang lahat ng mga sermon nila) and took it constructively. Looking back ...... I made the right decision!
langya ka joey ginawa mo pa 'kong elder! ;D
honored ba sa a/v shops ang senior citizen discount? makakuha na nga... ;D ;D ;D
good morning mga elderly braders! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
gud morning din....lapit na kong maging dual citizen.... :D :D :D
langya ka joey ginawa mo pa 'kong elder! ;D
good morning mga elderly braders! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Hahaha ..... malapit na akong mag-golden natal day. ;D ;D ;D
Hahahaha.... sorry for that..... what I meant was for those who are experienced..... na-shortcut kasi kaya "elder" yung nagamitbawal nga text speak eh... ;D
uy malapit ka na din pala mag super sayan level! ;D ;D ;D
bawal nga text speak eh... ;D
Your welcome bro, good luck.
Any other speaker diyers here?
I have the drivers and crosssover and wirings for an old speaker I inherited. I would like to incorporate them into a mid sized bookshelf baffles. Please pm me if you could help me with this project? TIA :)
Sorry for the late reply. :)
Why don't you just post it here so that others can also see. Do you have pics of those drivers? Any specs about them would be helpful for sure.
Sorry for the late reply. :)
Anybody here in the know in making DIY transmission baffles? Please share thanks!
Markcrenz got the speakers already hehewhat sort of drivers? what size?
what sort of drivers? what size?infinity rs4b http://www.pinoydvd.com/index.php/topic,159769.msg1615396.html#msg1615396
here is a link, it shows carrent carrying capacities of hook-up wires.....http://electriciantraining.tpub.com/14191/css/14191_71.htm
another good reference about wires and cables: http://www.navy-radio.com/manuals/0101-1xx/0101_110-06.pdf
all of these from our friend mr google.....http://www.google.com.ph/search?ix=uca&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=current+carrying+capacities+of+hookup+wires
if you feel you have more peace of mind using wires that can carry 33 amperes, then by all mean go ahead.... :D :D :D
At least hindi nasusunog wires ko.. By the way, bakit sobrang big deal sayo kong papalitan ko wires ng speakers ko??? As Ive said earlier, maganda nman result and much safer pa... Cant you mind your own business??? I dont get it why people are so mindful of other people's activities...
Hi Tony,
This got me thinking....... How much current is the power amp delivering to the speakers?
Let's narrow down the limits, say,
1. For Solid State amps - 25 watts to 100 watts Class AB rated
2. For Tube amps - 10 watts to 50 watts Class A rated
If there is a guide, then we can optimize the size of the speaker wires without unnecessarily over sizing or under sizing.
Thanks
JoeyGS
(http://s1090.photobucket.com/albums/i367/rulesmeister/carlo.jpg)wha... sunog? san banda yang burnt part na yan? sa terminal, input ng crossover, crossover output to woofer o sa woofer terminal?
Here's the enlarged photo (under scope) of the Euros6 speaker wires that I had replaced with #10 wire. The tiny default wires has black pigmentation an indication of burnt copper. I intentionally placed a glass diode beside the wire to illustrate the comparision of the speaker wires to the 0.5mm diameter of the glass diode's wire.
The resulting sound was far way better than prior to wire replacement and I had more confident in the safety of my gears knowing that the wires could handle better electrical current...
@ markcrenz:manufacturer's fault. loose connection ang problem, not the wire size per se. may arcing kaya nasunog ang wire. but if replacing the wires entirely gives you satisfaction and peace of mind, well and good. having very curious hands, sabi ko sa sarili ko dati, "if it ain't broke, mod it!" ;D
Sunog po Sir ung wire na ikakabit sa terminal post sa likod... Ung Euros6 ko last Dec '11 ko lng binili, used sparingly (less than 1 hr/day) on weekdays, and on weekends 2 movies lang kc nagala din naman ako... Ung setting ko sa Onkyo is between -10db to 0db sa volume..
manufacturer's fault. loose connection ang problem, not the wire size per se. may arcing kaya nasunog ang wire. but if replacing the wires entirely gives you satisfaction and peace of mind, well and good. having very curious hands, sabi ko sa sarili ko dati, "if it ain't broke, mod it!" ;D
Is there anybody in the house who does enclosures for Full Range drivers? TIA any referals or information will be appreciated.
Is there anybody in the house who does enclosures for Full Range drivers? TIA any referals or information will be appreciated.
Looks like he isn't interested PM him twice na yata. anyways thanks Sir Nelsonmay design plans ka na? patingnan ko sa pinagpagawaan ko ng sansui boxes. sya rin nag-repair ng infinitys
Looks like he isn't interested PM him twice na yata. anyways thanks Sir Nelson
may design plans ka na? patingnan ko sa pinagpagawaan ko ng sansui boxes. sya rin nag-repair ng infinitys
may design plans ka na? patingnan ko sa pinagpagawaan ko ng sansui boxes. sya rin nag-repair ng infinitys
I want to try these speakers sana with a tube amp pero wala pa ako nun.
you can diy, kaya mo yan....Edrel sells kits.... :D
I dont have any background when it comes to electronics eh. Baka masayang lang. Unlike sa carpentry, karpintero ang tatay ko kaya kahit papaano may kaunti natutunan sa kanya. Can you recommend any reading materials for a newbie? Mag-aral muna bago sumabak.
Thanks mga sirs. And here are my first completed DIY speakers.
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/IMG_0163_zpsfe2e39ce.jpg)(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/IMG_0159_zps260b659c.jpg)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/IMG_0160_zps8773009d.jpg)(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/IMG_0161_zps0cf42ef2.jpg)
Also, has anyone tried using those electronic crossovers from cars for your DIY speakers? Are they as durable as those of home audio crossovers?
Cheers!
Also, has anyone tried using those electronic crossovers from cars for your DIY speakers? Are they as durable as those of home audio crossovers?
Cheers!
^pwede ka rin gumamit ng clear lacquer varnish, meron nyan na naka aerosol cans...
Would'nt that add weight to cone ? I guess for larger woofers, there would not be any noticeable difference, but for smaller cones, baka magka effect.
wow ganda naman ang fullrange speaker mo sana meron din ako kanyan ikaw ang the best sa audio
diy_master, marcopilyo, trod93, narito sila lahat....pm no na lang...
sir, baka naman pwedeng makahingi ng dimensions nitong full range speaker box eh? tnx.
me too, I've been building my speaker boxes for eternity since I haven't used up entirely my Cerwin Vega crossovers bought from eBay US for 2 and 3 ways speakers. my latest work was a 12" sub, with a Korean sub amp and a MarcoPilyo sub box, he heh.
cheers!
hmmm mini sir... ::)Quote
Heto sir reference size.... :D
(http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/j326/darwin0704/image-1371225756274-V_zpsd3fdbfd7.jpg) (http://s1080.photobucket.com/user/darwin0704/media/image-1371225756274-V_zpsd3fdbfd7.jpg.html)
Sirs/Madams, can you please point me to where i can get a cheap LCR meter? or Inductance meter for measuring my DIY air core inductors? Thanks.
Guys, I just want to know what kind of crossover simulator are you using to make crossovers for your diy projects? I want to make my own two way, but having quite a hard time what values to put into the crossovers. Thanks.
Pasali po mga Sir.. share ko lang itong ongoing project ko.
Baffle Design: Pioneer PAX A30
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a201/ronaldcorrales/pax-a302.jpg)
Philips AD12202 / M8 & JBL 2405
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a201/ronaldcorrales/DSC_1556_zpse929a0df.jpg)
JBL 2405
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a201/ronaldcorrales/DSC_1557_zps524a4585.jpg)
Philips AD12202 / M8
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a201/ronaldcorrales/DSC_1568_zps1ef3c901.jpg)
Philips AD5200 & AD12202 / M8
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a201/ronaldcorrales/DSC_1570_zpsa9912670.jpg)
Update photo of my project..
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a201/ronaldcorrales/6A97064B-5E7B-42D0-BCFD-EB6C53B8E2E3-134-0000000379DE3A70.jpg)
Mga guys baka meron kayo suggestions? :Dtry mo muna sa open baffle at least 2 ft wide. kung wala kang t/s parameters you can safely use a 2 cu ft sealed box.
try mo muna sa open baffle at least 2 ft wide. kung wala kang t/s parameters you can safely use a 2 cu ft sealed box.Balak ko talaga open box muna while looking for proper box design. Pwede ko ba i-hook in parallel sa 8 ohms beyma speaker ko itong bozak na 8 ohms din? in effect magiging 4 ohms na sya kaya dapat i-set ko sa 4 ohms yung output ng tube amp ko, right?
ingat lang baka mag-away yung two speakers mo na nakaparallel...kung ako, pili kung alin...
Balak ko talaga open box muna while looking for proper box design. Pwede ko ba i-hook in parallel sa 8 ohms beyma speaker ko itong bozak na 8 ohms din? in effect magiging 4 ohms na sya kaya dapat i-set ko sa 4 ohms yung output ng tube amp ko, right?electrically it would be fine basta kaya ng amp ang 4 ohms BUT lulutang syempre ang tunog ng more sensitive speakers.
electrically it would be fine basta kaya ng amp ang 4 ohms BUT lulutang syempre ang tunog ng more sensitive speakers.
that is what i meant when i said mag-aaway yung two speakers....
Pics ng complete setup pls.
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/P1000148_zps797be1b5.jpg) (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/juneaki/media/P1000148_zps797be1b5.jpg.html)
Sorry to sound dumb but what kind of wire should be used to connect the driver (full range) to the terminal cup? Would regular speaker wire (ga 12) work?
thanks sir tony! by your comment, i am assuming that speaker gauge (from driver to terminal) is not as critical as i initially thought. i think i still have some ga18 wires lying around so i guess i'll use those. :-)
now that's cleared up, i would also like to get your input on using two full range drivers in a single cabinet. would this be good idea? i have a pair of audio nirvana super 6.5 and a pair of vintage 8" alnico drivers from a fellow pdvd'er (http://www.pinoydvd.com/index.php/topic,187316.0.html). any place where i can get speaker plans?
most likely, the magnet wire in your speaker's voice coil is #30 to #28, so that a gage 22 to 18 is big enough, length is not even 1 meter from speaker terminal to the speaker box terminal jack itself....
now that's cleared up, i would also like to get your input on using two full range drivers in a single cabinet. would this be good idea? i have a pair of audio nirvana super 6.5 and a pair of vintage 8" alnico drivers from a fellow pdvd'er (http://www.pinoydvd.com/index.php/topic,187316.0.html). any place where i can get speaker plans?
there is nothing to prevent you from putting two drivers in one cabinet or box,
the caveat is that there should be no interaction between the two and
they will function independently of each other....
Agree, kaya lang sir Tony the drivers are 6.5" & 8" I can just imagine how huge those boxes will be if you put them together in a single enclosure ;D
it was just a thought since i remember seeing dual driver box designs somewhere (can't seem to remember where). i do remember the drivers being isolated from each other internally though... again, it was just a random thought since i did have 2 pairs of drivers (and only one amp). i'll do some more research and keep you posted.
DIY'ers can go as crazy as they like, they are not motivated by profit.... ;) ;D
Oo nga. Alam mo sana may mag-DIY anechoic chamber dito with the proper tools for measuring performances of the speaker DIY builds.Sir Nelson, anechoic chamber is just for the standard measurements of commercial speakers just to have universal reference. As far my experience with audio, speaker performance depends on the listening environment. Most audiophile gears doesn't have any bass and treble meaning in order to make them sounds good, everything should be match from source, interconnects, speaker cable and speakers and listening room.
Sir Nelson, anechoic chamber is just for the standard measurements of commercial speakers just to have universal reference. As far my experience with audio, speaker performance depends on the listening environment. Most audiophile gears doesn't have any bass and treble meaning in order to make them sounds good, everything should be match from source, interconnects, speaker cable and speakers and listening room.
DIY is fun in order to understand what really sounds are. I heard a set-up with a single raw driver that sounds full without a Sub. Everything should be well match. The good thing about DIY you can build system that can really matched your listening taste based on your listening room.
You can download speaker box calculators, free software marami dyan. Medyo kailangan lang tyaga aralin yun, but once you get the hang of it you can design your own box based on the TS parameters of any driver.
would one need a background in electronics?No. But the ability to interpret frequency response graphs is necessary. Yun kasi ang graphical representation ng results that you will get after entering data in the software. Math proficiency is an advantage since maraming numbers involved.
ano pong diy speakers pede nyo ma recommend for karaoke system? budget po 8k. thanks.
Might be cheaper to just buy ready made speakers from konzert and the like, not unless may special requirement ka.
No. But the ability to interpret frequency response graphs is necessary. Yun kasi ang graphical representation ng results that you will get after entering data in the software. Math proficiency is an advantage since maraming numbers involved.
Sample pic showing the software model of my DIY subs courtesy of the great sub builder threadlock. My Excel-based software (not shown) produced almost identical results. The bottom left graph can be interpreted as: theoretical 110 dB average SPL at 250 watts, -3.5dB/+1.2dB from 20hz-200hz, not accounting room gain & acoustic coupling of 2 subs.
(http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k104/nfalabi/JBL120d.jpg)
Might be cheaper to just buy ready made speakers from konzert and the like, not unless may special requirement ka.
I like it.Thank you sir. Natuwa lang ako sa results.
congrats sir! iba talaga ang feeling pag nakita at narinig mong maganda ang kinalabasan ng pinag hirapang gawin nakaka wala ng pagod ;)
Just want to share my 1st DIY speaker project...still on-going.wow!!! Nice work!!! Congrats sir! Im sure it will keep you smiling everytime you play your speakers, may pride din kapag pinapatugtog mo kasi ikaw ang gumawa. Happy listening sir!
Specifications:
Drivers - Universal Sound, 8" FR courtesy of bro. chorus.
Enclosure - 19mm ordinary plywood
Design - Pensil modified [depth=360mm]
Damping - not yet installed.
Binding post - not yet installed.
Finish - TBA
Total Cost - Php. 4k so far
Note: i asked my neighborhood wood work shop to cut the plywood, i did the enclosure assembly in a day. using only wood glue & nails, no clamp. at 7pm, i hooked the pair in my Topping TP20-Mark2. Tomorrow, i"ll install binding post & damping materials courtesy of neighborhood upholstery shop.
SQ [initial] - Not expecting much about this, pero iba talaga ang FR especially sa vocal, instrumental, jazz, chamber music. Even tried Beethoven's Symphony # 9, heard details that i'm not aware off before.
My favourite piece - Hendrix's Little Wing, sarap ng guitar solo. Tama lng ang highs, hindi rin bitin ang lows. Ayus din ang attack. [Hirap mag describe ng sound, pinuyat ako ng speaker na to kaka-kinig]
(https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1318x880q90/513/r5jo.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1318x872q90/822/7uwm.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1318x880q90/713/b8wz.jpg)
after a lot of researches & reading this thread, i settle to pensils.
thank you sir.
are those marine plywood? and how much did the shop charge you for cutting plywood? thanks...
bro fred,
anong design nyang box mo? meron k ba diyan plans niyan?pwede bang makahingi ko ng kopya para din sa 8in fullrange driver ko. salamat
sir tony,
ordinary plywood only - worth P820, cutting charge P500 + 100 tip to the carpenter.
thanks
thanks, marine ply would cost more...yes sir, but next time i'll opt for MDF... ingat lng sa water/moisture.
thanks, marine ply would cost more...
most recommended by experienced builders online is birch plywood, meron bang source locally? it would definitely cost more but its density & stiffness is way better than mentioned above.
Bro yan na ba yung FR natin?hehehe subwoofer nalang kulang nyan.
BTW ano sound card gamit mo?
Nice HTPC case pabulong price
Thanks
sa mga tidahan ng tela sa palengke meron or sa shell canvass
sa mga tidahan ng tela sa palengke meron or sa shell canvass
As requested:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/P1000157_zps314b7eea.jpg) (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/juneaki/media/P1000157_zps314b7eea.jpg.html) (http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/P1000156_zps5df38610.jpg) (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/juneaki/media/P1000156_zps5df38610.jpg.html) (http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/P1000158_zps98257192.jpg) (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/juneaki/media/P1000158_zps98257192.jpg.html) (http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/P1000159_zps43a48083.jpg) (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/juneaki/media/P1000159_zps43a48083.jpg.html)
Sir Joey,meron ako extra polyfiber sheet,i can give it to you :)
Thanks deist. Appreciate it.
Nice to have met you ...... you are on the right track. Those Alpairs are very articulate even at low volumes. Congrats on your speaker build.
congrats sir, nice!
malapit na Mark Audio natin nakaisip ka na ba ng enclosure natin? hehehe
sa dami ng naiisip... nakakalito tuloy! de bale may ilang araw pa naman para makapg-decide, hehehe
try ko naman BS - Andreas vented design ShoeBox-70.3
http://www.markaudio.com/Plans/itemlist/category/13-CHR-70-Chamagne
malapit na Mark Audio natin nakaisip ka na ba ng enclosure natin? hehehe
ayos pasabay ha pagusapan nalang natin pag daan ko sa inyo
Here is first DIY Full range speaker Visaton B200 :)
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff38/junendaya/DIY/IMG_1044_zps4c8f4507.jpg)
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff38/junendaya/DIY/IMG_1068_zps9c1c522c.jpg)
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff38/junendaya/DIY/IMG_1113_zpsf7e071b7.jpg)
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff38/junendaya/DIY/IMG_1323_zps40f10457.jpg)
Here is first DIY Full range speaker Visaton B200 :)
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff38/junendaya/DIY/IMG_1044_zps4c8f4507.jpg)
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff38/junendaya/DIY/IMG_1068_zps9c1c522c.jpg)
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff38/junendaya/DIY/IMG_1113_zpsf7e071b7.jpg)
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff38/junendaya/DIY/IMG_1323_zps40f10457.jpg)
ang ganda naman! parinig ako pag nakuha mo na! ganda nung horn! :o
One of Yabadabadoo Speaker creation
"Voice of the Theater"
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/706/lbtk.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/jmlbtkj)
"Pyramid"
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/541/mrky.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/f1mrkyj)
musta na HT mo Bil?
mga guru,
Question lang po... May atomic 12 inch subwoofer po ako gusto ko po planning to DIY po sana for my home audio aside sa MDF board stickwell at turnilyo po ano pa po ang kaylangan ko para magamit ko po sha sa HT?
thanks po
Mga sirs san ba ma kakabili ng birch plywood? Salamat..
Mga sirs san ba ma kakabili ng birch plywood? Salamat..dre meron akong sobrang real wood veneers rosewood size 4x8 pm me kung gusto mo
Hindi pagtitipid ang motivation ng DIY.
You know what you are doing.
Sadly, not all speaker builders do.
I'll be honest, during elementary I salvaged every speaker I can find and put them in a box and powered it with my walkman frying the poor thing.
I lost a week's allowance as punishment for salvaging speakers from working radios in the house.
hehehe ganyan din ako nung elementary master jojo! aiwa naman yung portable/walkman ko!
Ha ha ha. I can relate. Anything that could be opened with a screwdriver, was opened. The creations worthless. The thrill was priceless.
Ha ha ha. A very wise move by your daddy.
Alemars, ha ha. Throwback ah. Alala ko iyan. Tuwing last weekend of summer depressed ako pagshopping ng school gear sa Alemars ha ha. Sa Cubao ata yung amin. Tapos bili sapatos sa Greg's sa Horseshoe Village.
Oh my! Just the right thread for me. Guys may problema ako. Im planning my first build and in the planning stages I am taken aback by one particular issue that is pretty much a dilemna.Whatever the answer is, there is nothing you can do to make them sound the same again. And if ever you determine which is bad and somehow manage to make it sound like the other one, you probably wouldn't want to use a pair of dull tweeters or a pair that rings at 8khz.
I have a pair of tweeters, one of which sounds dull and the other one sounds bright(er). How would you know who is sounding properly? There is a treble peak at around 8khz on one of the tweeters. I guess my question is, is it possible for a bad tweeter to be more 'sibilant' or by default do bad tweeters go dull sounding?
yep! thing is im trying to get an answer for educational purposes. you know, to make sense of it all? your answer makes full sense in a DIY kind of way, so you are in context being this is a DIY thread. im just really curious, i guess.
of course, i ended up getting a new pair of tweeters. hopefully i can amass the effort to start the cabinet build.
the question stands. do some tweeters go brighter when they go bad?
If it doesn't sound good, it has gone bad. I don't really see the point of your inquiry.
the question stands. do some tweeters go brighter when they go bad?they often don't. during overloads those with plastic domes may either burn slightly and stiffen decreasing its sensitivity, or simply burn up and die. cone tweeters may also stiffen over time and again lose sensitivity. most tweeter failures are open circuits.
Oh my! Just the right thread for me. Guys may problema ako. Im planning my first build and in the planning stages I am taken aback by one particular issue that is pretty much a dilemna.
I have a pair of tweeters, one of which sounds dull and the other one sounds bright(er). How would you know who is sounding properly? There is a treble peak at around 8khz on one of the tweeters. I guess my question is, is it possible for a bad tweeter to be more 'sibilant' or by default do bad tweeters go dull sounding?
nice, very nice...thanks sir!!!
thanks sir!!!
horn tweeter... raw finish...5.5"x11"x8" using vifa xt25sc90-04 ;)
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/DSCN8820_zps538508b6.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/DSCN8820_zps538508b6.jpg.html)
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/DSCN8821_zpsb3b22780.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/DSCN8821_zpsb3b22780.jpg.html)
I'm no expert but I just noticed two unconventional things being done here. But maybe remington has special considerations here. One is, as Tony had noticed, is the absence of a throat (or is that the throat immediately after the tweeter) so no smooth transition here from tweeter to the horn itself. I doubt if there will be efficiency gained here without proper horn expansion. Two, I don't know why the stepped expansion. Maybe part of the design. But the stepped expansion will create distortion for the tweeter rather than reduce it. Sound will bounce at the insides of the horn and may cause delays. Btw, what is the frequency cut-off of this horn? Have you compared the tweeter's performance with/without the horn?were still in the process of tuning it sir but so far the outcome is well better than expected it enhances the gain and overall performance of the vifa. I only put 2, 6.8uf capacitors each tweeter and bi amp it using lepai with Audio Nirvana and Mark audio.
What are your plans for finishing?vinyl ang outer part and flat black spray paint inside sir.
sabi ko na nga ba.....Larry will chime in....:Dnag tutuning pa kami ni kit master pero so far maganda na ang outcome well better than expected
caotecue, kailangan bang my throat yung horn?
madali namang lagyan yan kung sakali....
vinyl ang outer part and flat black spray paint inside sir.
Remington,the vifa alone is being driven by the lepai the audio nirvana or mark audio is being driven by an el34 push pull power amp depending on which one I want to use and they are all connected together with a powered sub woofer to a tube pre amp with 3 outputs made by master tonyT. :)
Are you bi-amping meaning the tweeter alone or using the lepai with the vifa, markaudio and audio nirvana, and then use another amp for the sub?
cool. please do keep us posted sir.sure sir! ;)
Sorry. I looked at the specs of the tweeter (XT25SC90-04) and it is 4 ohms (using 2-6.8uf 1st order). So the cut-off is 3khz and not 1.5khz. Isn't it a bad idea to cut at this range?
were still in the process of tuning it sir but so far the outcome is well better than expected it enhances the gain and overall performance of the vifa. I only put 2, 6.8uf capacitors each tweeter and bi amp it using lepai with Audio Nirvana and Mark audio.
vinyl ang outer part and flat black spray paint inside sir.
nag tutuning pa kami ni kit master pero so far maganda na ang outcome well better than expected
Nakaparallel yata ang dalawang 6.8uf so It must be 3khz. Sensitive ang hearing natin sa frequency na yan kaya it's not good practice to cut at this range. But if the poster says, otherwise, who are we to argue. Kaya nga DIY eh.
tuned... :)
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/DSCN8835_zps5ffd2fd5.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/DSCN8835_zps5ffd2fd5.jpg.html)
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/DSCN8837_zpsba612c5d.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/DSCN8837_zpsba612c5d.jpg.html)
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/DSCN8832_zps44036440.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/DSCN8832_zps44036440.jpg.html)
Oh, 2 capacitors ba on each tweeter? I was thinking na, one lang for each tweeter.sure bro he he...
Bro remington, pa-demo nga ulit sa "showroom" mo :)
Wow, nabihisan na! ang bilis ng proseso ah... paglaki ko gagayahin ko din yan...he he he may stand pa yan bro para maipatong sa ulo ng alien.
I tried tri amping last night, this horn was powered by a lepai and my 2 other FR speakers are powered by tubes all of them are connected to a 3 output tube pre amp ganda ng harmony nilang tatlo mahirap i describe yung SQ, maganda para sa akin :) ;)
Ung nahihirapan sa bi-amping, tuturuan kayo ni Remington ng tri-amping, di pa kasama sub jan...experiment lang bro he he! ;) :) :)
masarap kasi mag experiment lalo na pag maganda nagiging outcome thats the wonder and exitement of diy ^-^ kumbaga masarap kumain ng spaghetti pag maraming keso hehe (added attraction and flavor) wala lang color ;D para sa pandinig ko lang naman ^-^ ^-^ ^-^
up and down ba ang bounce ng sound nito, hindi ba palaki? ::)
Sige, next time na session ako diyan, may kasama pang spaghetti ha... hahahaayos hehe...
@remington, baka gusto mong pag-aralan ito....http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/217298-square-pegs.htmlok ito master pwede pag experimentuhan he he!
Iyan ang hinahap ko for my planned desk. Saan mayroon niyan?
contemplating on the materials of my next project.
ok kaya ito as an enclosure?
engineered bamboo
(http://www.sidlakpinoy.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/08/engineeredbamboo_600-300x218.jpg)
bro deist,
no feedback yet from the supplier but from their site looks like di naman mahal gaano.
1200x600x12mm =P700
just one of my option.
Sir Deist, ito ba yung ginamit mong wood for your Markaudio Alpair10P enclosure?
bro deist,
no feedback yet from the supplier but from their site looks like di naman mahal gaano.
1200x600x12mm =P700
just one of my option.
Diest are there half inch thick dark wood panels at Home Depot? I need it for a 34.5" x 34.5" table.
Meron bro but I'm not sure kung meron single cut ng size requirement mo. I forgot the name of the shop but it is inside Home Depot Alabang.
Hindi sir. Ang ginamit ko is engineered solid wood from Pateco. I was able to get it on sale sa Home Depot, total cost for the pensils 3.5K ;)
Bro, medyo manipis yang 12mm esp if you will use it in a big enclosure for your AN. magiging prominent ang wall resonance & the stability of the structure will be compromised (if without internal bracing).
Oh ok thanks. Ganda kasi ng gawa mo e, parang gusto kong gumawa ng isang box na ganyan din ang wood na ginamit :)
Dai-Ichi is OEM for so many branded speakers, Martin Logan is one, bantay sarado nga lang ng ML engineers ang production lines....:D
transfer of technology is inevitable....
master tony, brand ba ng dai ichi yung phaser speakers? thank you
Kung mura eh di bilhin mo na. Report back.
Hi guys! Im planning to build a DIY speaker. My friend, who has a furniture business will guide me with box making.
Can anyone recommend a diy bookshelf speaker model? My budget is around 15k-20k (parts only, box cost not included). I can order online and ship it to my tito who is coming home this July.
Kasya kaya sa budget pag may ribbon tweeter?
Hi guys! Im planning to build a DIY speaker. My friend, who has a furniture business will guide me with box making.
Can anyone recommend a diy bookshelf speaker model? My budget is around 15k-20k (parts only, box cost not included). I can order online and ship it to my tito who is coming home this July.
Kasya kaya sa budget pag may ribbon tweeter?
Yup, mainly for music.
Wow, the various designs for Mark Audio are mind boggling!
What are the disadvantages of a fullrange driver as opposed to the standatd woofer / tweeter combo.
A well design multi drivers will produce greater details and clarity of music. Less distortion for every each drivers, not force to produce frequency almost to their break-up limit.
add Audio Nirvana to your list sir I assure you it will not dissappoint. Try to audition it, there are many AN users here in PDVD already. I for one can accommodate you if you are near the Marikina area :). I no longer need the help of a powered sub as these babies already sounded as if it has a sub :D and speaker placement is not difficult, it has a very wide sweet spot ^-^
Aha! My girlfriend lives in Marikina. Near Blue Wave. Sakto, ill pm you :Dah ok malapit lang ako sa bluewave sir. PM nalang kung kelan.
Sa PBB gusto ko audition... >:D ;D
My 4.5" fullrange speakers arrived. They sent the wrong ports. I ordered 2"x7" they sent 3"x12". It's ok. I have time. I am still ordering a Rockwell Versacut saw. I planning to DIY 5L ported boxes.
Huntiing pa ng mdf. May alam ba kayong stores ng 18mm mdf QC area.try igross marketing at new york street near betty go belmonte lrt station
Huntiing pa ng mdf. May alam ba kayong stores ng 18mm mdf QC area.
Nakaka inspire mga full range builders parang gusto ko sumali sa kulto na to....
hehehehe...
Okay lang ba kahit 50 watter na amp ang gamitin para sa fullrange build or advisable talaga na low powered SETs?
Game on! Still waiting for the ports. Next up, finding wood and clamps.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/Versacut_zpsda467052.jpg)[
P1200 pa din ang 18mm mdf sa Topwood, Roosevelt. Problem is buo. I need a way to transport a whole board. My saw is 110v so I cannot cut on site.Sir, baka may malapit na wood workshop dun, pa-cut mo na like what i did para lang magkasya sa "car".
P1200 pa din ang 18mm mdf sa Topwood, Roosevelt. Problem is buo. I need a way to transport a whole board. My saw is 110v so I cannot cut on site.
They said they don't cut. The can allow ac use for a personal saw. However 110v ang saws ko. Anyway, I'll start looking for a big vehicle.
P1200 pa din ang 18mm mdf sa Topwood, Roosevelt. Problem is buo. I need a way to transport a whole board. My saw is 110v so I cannot cut on site.
Game on! Still waiting for the ports. Next up, finding wood and clamps.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/Versacut_zpsda467052.jpg)[
They said they don't cut. The can allow ac use for a personal saw. However 110v ang saws ko. Anyway, I'll start looking for a big vehicle.
Nice toy to have handy Gino, happy to see you dipping your hand at it.
This is available locally if anyone is looking for a similar tool....
The Dremel Saw Max... Locally also relates to 220volts plus support....
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Tools/Pages/CategoryProducts.aspx?catid=2101
Welcome back brader.I was never gone naman, just busy lang...
If you don't mind me asking, what was the speaker box design you used in your previous mark audio bookshelf?
Can a 500w transformer handle this 4amp 110v saw?
I am looking at this as a practice box. Bonus na lang kung maganda lumabas. I'm still waiting for the ports. They sent wrong ones. Anyone in need of 3"x12" ports?
Can a 500w transformer handle this 4amp 110v saw?
I am looking at this as a practice box. Bonus na lang kung maganda lumabas. I'm still waiting for the ports. They sent wrong ones. Anyone in need of 3"x12" ports?
...and it begins.Practice piece yan brader right? Sigurado ako hindi yan ang plywood ni filtra eh... On the otherhand, you do good work...
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/boxpiecescu_zpse7821ca9.jpg)
Backs and sides. I really like this Rockwell Versacut. It is very light but very able. The laser guide is very handy indeed.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/Boxmockup_zps6a0e447e.jpg)
Mockup. These are tiny 5L ported bookshelf speakers.
You're doing great Gino. I agree with RXV, those are perfect circles. Keep us posted ;)
@RXV - are you done breaking in your 10Ps? what enclosures did you build? post na MA thread 8)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/BoxwithDriverTop_zpsbdd3a1a2.jpg)
Fostex FE126EN in 5 liter ported box
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/BoxwithDriver_zpsf8632342.jpg)
They sounded so good I was apprehensive to remove them to finish the job.
Yes, they are broken in already, more than 150 hours on them. I'm building a version of a modified Pensil. Post ko next time if it's already finished. Matrabaho ang detailing/finishing e. Para pasado sa akin, dapat kunwari ie-exhibit sa standards ng November HiFi show hahaha
Yup. Flush mounted. Keeping things simple.Wouldn't that be surface mounted?
Seems nakalabas ng konti driver face, tama ba brader?
I would also suggest a removable panel.drivers (esp FRs) reveal their true character after more than a hundred hours & adjustment in stuffing will allow you to tweak nuances in the sound & experiment ;)
It was just a plain hole for the speaker. The mount just laid flat on it.
I agree with accessibility through the speaker hole. Abot ng kamay ang bawat sulok.
Magtatagal ako sa block sanding he he. Wala akong sander.
The back panel has light adhesive. The speakers sound great as is. I might keep it this way. I'll see after break-in if it needs tuning. The sound is more revealing and dynamic than my Denons SCM51. Higher headroom which accounts for more realism. Much more air than my stock Fostex FE167E without supertweeters. Bass is adequate with a sub. I can do without a sub for casual ambient listening.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/FinishedwithMacLeft_zps5b16cfc4.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/FinishedwithMacRight_zpsed8eb885.jpg)
I suppose the final appearance is a wait and see. it depends on how the wood will absorb the stain. I am hoping the puttied areas won't deviate much in shade. Anyway I am so happy with the sound that looks comes secondary now.
Oo nga naman you can access the internals via speaker hole because this is surface mounted, if this is flush mounted you'd be singing a different tune, it's difficult to remove a flush mounted driver after a while dahil kumapit na & very easy to damage the drivers trying to get it out ;)I'd worry more about the effects of diffraction than the miniscule effect of stuffing a small sealed box.
I used Stikwell. It came in a clear plastic bag inside a plastic jar. Not very elegant. Messy. But it applied easily, was tacky, dried fast and held well. I would have preferred those yellowish bottled wood glues.
My problem with acoustic foam is they tend to have closed cells. This means they displace internal volume. To me, that is the biggest way they influence sound rather than dissipating or absorbing sound. If I need help in that area, I will use wool carpet liners.
Nothing wrong with using them provided you use them for your intended effect.
I believe the Elmers multi-purpose glue is different from the Elmer's wood glue (beige color, around P100)
Good to know. I will look at the groceries and hardwares here. I also like to try the bottled glues.The only difference in formulation between the white (multi purpose glue) and the yellow (wood glue) is the open time. And Elmer's glue isn't water based. PVC glue sya that you can clean up with water.
I saw Elmers multi-purpose glue (white). Does this have a different formula from the wood glue?
The only difference in formulation between the white (multi purpose glue) and the yellow (wood glue) is the open time. And Elmer's glue isn't water based. PVC glue sya that you can clean up with water.
Another day of rough sanding. Worked on aligning the edges and keeping the edges square. Sanding is a b**ch.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/P6290112_zpse8c1be15.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/P6290116_zpsc992c070.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/P6290115_zps07de8d25.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/P6290114_zpsee111478.jpg)
Thanks for the clarification :)Not really drying time as both need 24 hours to fully cure or dry. Open time is more on the time it sets. Yung yellow kasi will harden after a shorter period of time unlike the white one. Tight fitting joints will be impossible to fit if the glue initially sets. That is why several glue from manufacturers have different open time, kasi you will encounter assembling a project that requires a lot of joints to be done in one pass. Example would be a baby crib with lots of bars. These bars need to be glued at the same time, pag maliit ang open time.... Sakit sa ulo!
What do you mean by open time? Drying time?
Not really drying time as both need 24 hours to fully cure or dry. Open time is more on the time it sets. Yung yellow kasi will harden after a shorter period of time unlike the white one. Tight fitting joints will be impossible to fit if the glue initially sets. That is why several glue from manufacturers have different open time, kasi you will encounter assembling a project that requires a lot of joints to be done in one pass. Example would be a baby crib with lots of bars. These bars need to be glued at the same time, pag maliit ang open time.... Sakit sa ulo!
Okay, thanks for the clarification.Yes... They have the same formulation. Clamping time also is affected by open time btw. The yellow glue can be unclamped after 45 mins to an hour and the joint should hold. On the white glue, it should be safe to remove the clamps after 3 hours.... After 24 hours of curing time, they are the same....
So you mean, if you're not pressed for time (ex. overnight drying), the Elmer's "multi-purpose" white glue will have the same strength properties of the Elmer's "wood" glue? Malayo rin kasi ang price ng multi-purpose sa wood glue e
Another day of rough sanding. Worked on aligning the edges and keeping the edges square. Sanding is a b**ch.
My speakers are small pa he he. I can't imagine working on a floorstander without an orbital sander.
Yes... They have the same formulation. Clamping time also is affected by open time btw. The yellow glue can be unclamped after 45 mins to an hour and the joint should hold. On the white glue, it should be safe to remove the clamps after 3 hours.... After 24 hours of curing time, they are the same....
Yup if that group buy pushes through, there will be a lot of building soon.
Stuffings, liners, deadeners, diameter and length of ports all affect how sound is produced. While theories exists, it's really tuning by ear.
The main tuning is by design. Box internal volume, structure, port dimensions if any.
In my case I talked with full range guru Bob Brines of Fostex MLTL fame. He suggested this box. 5 liters, tuned to 100hz. The smoothens the midrange up. I built it to the letter and the result is fantastic.
Next step, drill holes for hardware. Then apply sanding sealer. I will be testing stain & finish on scraps soon.
You guys got any suggestions on what AN driver size I should get for a bookshelf build for a small 22 sqm room about 8 feet in height?
Gino, ingat ingat lang sa sanding sealer, that's where I did a slight mistake and had to re-sand EVERYTHING again.The sanding sealer with the Ace brand is Oil based, hence the drying time is 24 hours. I use lacquer based sanding sealer when possible such as the ones from Boysen.
If it's Ace Hardware brand, don't expect it to dry as quick as the instructions say. It will dry, but it easily and quickly clogs sandpaper (it's actually very tricky to sand, dapat pantay ang pag-sand mo to all areas). Slow curing time for me.
But for me, I think you need sanding sealer, para pantay ang stain mo. Based on my experience, if you don't use sanding sealer, expect areas with bigger pores and more grain (such as the ply lines) to absorb more stain and therefore appear darker than the other areas. A necessary evil if I would say so.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/FinalPuttyFront_zpsc246ba90.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/FinalPuttyTop_zpsf92a36ca.jpg)
1) Please confirm...oil based finish over laquer sealer is ok. Laquer finish over oil based sealer is not ok.
2) How much time does Boysen laquer sanding sealer need to dry?
3) I will be using Boysen sanding sealer. Do I use this as is or does it need to be thinned?
1) Please confirm...oil based finish over laquer sealer is ok. Laquer finish over oil based sealer is not ok.
2) How much time does Boysen laquer sanding sealer need to dry?
3) I will be using Boysen sanding sealer. Do I use this as is or does it need to be thinned?
RXV, ang Konig ba mayroon sa small stores or sa Ace Hardware lang?
I actually bought it at Wilcon. Sa Ace hardware, I'm not sure since they carry their own Ace brand (1L). Sa tabi-tabi hardware stores, probably not :)
One small can of Konig (half pint) cost less than P300, but it's already enough to stain my floorstanders.
They also, have poly varnishes in half-pint sizes (gloss, semi-gloss, satin, matte) perfect for those small projects.
san na sir yung picture ng speaker mo.... >:D
Sa aking OB baffle, I applied wood conditioner before applying polyurethane stain (both same brand).
Parehas din ba yan sa sanding filler?
You guys got any suggestions on what AN driver size I should get for a bookshelf build for a small 22 sqm room about 8 feet in height?
1) Please confirm...oil based finish over laquer sealer is ok. Laquer finish over oil based sealer is not ok.1. Yes
2) How much time does Boysen laquer sanding sealer need to dry?
3) I will be using Boysen sanding sealer. Do I use this as is or does it need to be thinned?
Probably similar, but I think not identical. Let's wait for the experts to chime in on that.
Actually, there are times when I miss the OB baffle, it has a different kind of flavor compared to a boxed baffle. There is little bass produced due to the open baffle design, but there is an airiness and naturalness (depending on the room condition) that makes it lifelike, especially on the vocals and highs.
Now I understand why some people opt for OB enclosures tapos dagdag woofers na lang.
1. Yes
2. 4 hours should suffice on a warm day, but best results overnight.
3. Either way works. I prefer straight from the can and apply very thin coats.
Blotching I avoid by applying a thin coat of sealer on a suspected piece, then sand it with 220 grit sandpaper till everything is smooth and even. Then I apply stain. (I am aware that you should stain first, but...)
Stain applied and wiped the excess off after 10 mins. this will allow it to dry faster and give you an even shade without blotches.
Next step would be to apply topcoat. Several layers until you achieve what you seek.
If you can get hold of a wood conditioner locally it will help you stain better, that is if you can find one.
If you use the one step process I told you, after the sealer and sanding, you can apply the finish with light coats. If you need it darker, apply another after a day. Do not apply thick coats to get the shade you need.
Like I told JojoD, I strongly suggest the Ace finishes especially the stain. You can also try the ones from sandolin which is even better.
Brush on finish will require you to thin the finishes about 5% only to keep the fluid flowing and reduce bubbles. Brush slowly and lightly avoid starting fron the corners to reduce drips.
The first topcoat after the stain should be done with very light hands and care as the topcoat chemicals can reactivate the stain and mess it. After the first coat, suceeding ones should be a breeze.
Sand between coats except after stain. You can use 180 or 220 grit. On the final coat, i sand from 220 to 3000 grit depending on the sheen I seek. But you can stop anywhere that suits your needs.
Applying wax such as car wax makes the polish look good.
Hope this helps.
Wow that kurot experience is scary. I don't want that.
I have used ace polyurethane top coat for five years now, most were sprayed and some brushed on. i have never had any problems with it. I spray it more often in light coats, hence the drytime is significantly faster. I can do three or four coats in one day when temperature is warm.
Stains vary in chemical build, i have never liked konig and prefer to use the ones from ace or by sandolin. They provide me with the color, speed of application and compatibility with the topcoat. Another stain I enjoyed using is Deft, they also carry water based poly which I considered the best I have tried in the wb division.
Poly dries tough and scratch resistant to a degree. Did you thin the poly you used? Or applied a thick coat to get a smooth finish?
I was actually planning to use a spraygun, but opted to use a brush na lang, because when I made a test piece, okay naman ang results and nagfla-flatten out naman. I was also planning to buy Ace wood stain but decided against it because I won't be able to use all of the 1 liter, sayang lang. I did not thin the poly, I just applied straight from the can, but did not intentionally applied a thick coat, just poly on the tip (half at the most) of the brush. In the beginning of the brushing, there were grain lines (of the wood) shown on the poly, and after a while, the poly flattens out to a smooth surface naman.1. I let it dry for 24 hours even when I flood a piece, you would know poly is dry when you get white powder when you sand.
I have a few questions:
1. In the Ace poly instructions, it says drying time is 48 hours? Do you follow this (if brushing)? It seems too long, other brands kasi alam ko 24 hours lang usually curing time.
2. Where can you buy the Sandolin and Deft wood stains and poly? Do they come in small (1/2 pint can) sizes? Do you have any experience with Zar brand stains and poly?
3. What do you use to thin out oil based poly? Paint thinner lang?
4. Do you recommend thinning poly when brushing on stained wood? If yes, what consistency or how much?
Kung spray gun naman, how do you thin it (what consistency or ratio)?
1. I let it dry for 24 hours even when I flood a piece, you would know poly is dry when you get white powder when you sand.
Technically, oil based polyurethane fully cures after 40 days. Yes 40 days! That is why you can smell it long after you finish the build.
2. Sandolin you can find in true value, maybe even Deft ( got mine for the supplier way back and don't remember the location)
3. I prefer mineralc spirits (available at Ace, but as far as I know they are basially the same as paint thinner).
4. Brushing I often mix it with BLO (boiled linseed oil) and mineral spirits, all in equal parts. This way you can even wipe it on with a clean rag.
Spraying, I use it straight from the can. Be aware that I use a spray gun with a 1.8 tip. Not all sprayguns have this. Thin it as needed if you have a smaller tip but not more than 10%.
The OB baffle I currently working on for its final form. Used different tone of shade and decided to have like flat finish. The mdf back panel finish with flat paint.
RXV, that wood were salvage from old wood table I found at the dumpster near the apt I'm staying. I grew up at countryside (promdi), woods have soft in my heart. I feel sad whenever I see people just throwing away or burning woods (my apology for being mellow dramatic). The table looks like those imported from Asia (Thailand or Malaysia). Not hardwood or expensive wood specie but good enough for commercial product. Have it machine planned to expose the natural color and my part lot of sanding and several coats of stain (sanding in between coats).
Polyshades label says 3in 1 that could mean it has primer/conditioner mixed with it. Tested with and without conditioner applied, wood grains with conditioner looks mode defined and natural than without.
These speakers are very open sounding. Very smooth. No whizzer shout. Seamless mid to upper band. Sparkling top end. Very airy. Well rounded and deep bass thanks in part to a 10"sub. It reveals the rounded, snappy character of my APPJ tube amp with reasonable detail. Satisfying attack of guitar plucks, bass plucks, snare drums, and drum impacts.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/P7110179_zps484551df.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/P7110161_zps185bc52e.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/P7110167_zpsf5b80fde.jpg)
Installed the speaker terminals.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/TrueColorBack_zps7fa09bc6.jpg)
These speakers are very open sounding. Very smooth. No whizzer shout. Seamless mid to upper band. Sparkling top end. Very airy. Well rounded and deep bass thanks in part to a 10"sub. It reveals the rounded, snappy character of my APPJ tube amp with reasonable detail. Satisfying attack of guitar plucks, bass plucks, snare drums, and drum impacts.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/P7110179_zps484551df.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/P7110161_zps185bc52e.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/P7110167_zpsf5b80fde.jpg)
Sino sa mga kids a mahilig mag-assist? Anybody picking up your skills?
Daddy, bakit walang crossover and FR? Ano ba ang nagagawa ng capacitor, coil, at resistor ng crossover? Ha ha ha. Wala kang lusot. Blessing and a curse and may matalinong mga anak.
It looks like mas maganda pag maraming tanong dahil di mo mamamalayan lumipas ang bagyo! Ok din kaya yan sa pagpalipas ng Stress? >:D >:D
Kung baga sa kotse na nabangga, puro masilya pero ginagamit muna he he.
Sanded down the face of one speaker. Wet sanding didn't work, wood rubbed off like paper on a small area. I did repairs. I'm letting it dry. then 2nd attempt. If I mess this up, yes I'll build another pair.
If the wood is properly sealed, water doesn't really get absorbed but the wood....
Jumping from 80 grit to 200 should not make it faster. Avoid jumping grits too far apart, from 80, 120 grit should make the right transition. That way the scratch marks of the 80 grit (which is deep) can be removed by the 120 grit. Then moving to higher incremental grits get you to the polish you seek. A 200 grit will take long to remove the 80 grit scratch simply because it is too deep for the finer grit.
But if it works, why fix it right?
Gino, I would avoid a putty unless the damage is obvious. But for what its worth the finish you choose should cover the putty without much discoloration. You probably need two or more coats though...
best solution is to wipe it with lacquer thinner untill mabura ang stain at sanding sealer that is kung walang ginamit na polyurethane top coat or para mabilis pwede din gamitan ng stripsol and steel brush and wipe it clean with lacquer thinner.:o di po bakal yan ha?! Plywood brader. And the finish is oil based polyurethane.
:o di po bakal yan ha?! Plywood brader. And the finish is oil based polyurethane.ay mali pala yun! ganun kasi ginagawa namin dati when I was in the construction and furniture business pag naghuhugas kami ng mga plywood na may varnish at irere cycle kailangan lang marunong ang gagawa para di masira :) old school but it still works ginagawa ko pa din ngayon yan ;)
Rvx, sealed I meant naka topcoat na and not the sanding sealer only.
Hand sanding si Gino so best not skip grits. But even with a machine (which I too does) skip one grit at best lang. So from 80 next would be 150 is ideal for Removing all finish.
Seems 180 grit was still aggressive in Gino's case (wet sanding), starting with 240 grit might do a better job.
Gino, as previously suggested, try scrubbing the test piece until veneer is exposed then apply your finish again. If it works than you might not need to build a new enclosure.
I partially sanded my test panel. Promising. The grains did get darker. I applied very thin Stain and Finish. No run even when dried vertically. Now, the trick is to sand it evenly or as desired if I opt for a distressed look.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/REstain2_zpsc3cd77a4.jpg)
Let the experience sink in and the anger pass... ganyan ginagawa ng mga modellers to prevent "flying" kits... :P
If all else fails, may Bosny na kulay Silver Red naman eh hahaha >:D
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41nIxsIyObL._SS400_.jpg)
Sabi nga ni pareng Ricky intsik na intsik ang kulay niyan! ;D
Thanks for the offer.
How come when I applied sealer, sand smooth, and applied Stain and Finish, there are rough grainy dry spots? What are those? I didn't feel those before application.
i duco finish na lang. ferrari red ;D
Where can I buy wood veneer?
sa ricad meron. nag inquire ako dati sa mc home global. price ranges from 1.5k-3.5k ang plywood size, real wood veneer.As far as I know, yung mga P1.5-3.5k, hindi real wood veneer pa yan, synthetic lang yung outer layer(formica type?).
As far as I know, yung mga P1.5-3.5k, hindi real wood veneer pa yan, synthetic lang yung outer layer(formica type?).
Real wood veneer (all wood) costs around the P5k up range.
try call san jose cabinet if they accept veneer work.
please pm me contact info, thanks..
Wow, very nicely done. For keeps ang design..
I don't have a spray gun. Can that veneer be waxed or something easy to do?
Brightyear is near what road on Edsa. Hanapin ko sa Maps. Also if coming from Timog QC, will it be on my side or the going back side?
I see. If I come out of Roosevelt to Edsa, I already missed it? So in Edsa its on the side of Roosevelt and Waltermart Muñoz.
Sir Tony hanapin ko po yung tel number. will PM you.. ^-^
Got it. Thanks Camotecue.
@camoteque - love the JBL paragon cabinets. very good quality of work 8)Thanks.
@camoteque, re the wood veneers you use; adhesive back ba sya?
They are not. You can use contact cement.
Onga pala, I have polyurethane finish. Will I have to sand this down to bare wood to glue the veneer or will smooth enough sandind do for prep?
I also have precut speakers holes and ports on the boxes, can I cut the vinyl after applying on the box fronts? Is it thin enough for that procedure?
The veneer is very veOnga pala, I have polyurethane finish. Will I have to sand this down to bare wood to glue the veneer or will smooth enough sandind do for prep?
I also have precut speakers holes and ports on the boxes, can I cut the vinyl after applying on the box fronts? Is it thin enough for that procedure?
Better sand it down if it is still possible. If you can't, at least make it rough enough so the contact cement will still stick.
If contact cement is used, what happens when panels meet? Can't sand contact cement. Can wood glue be used?
Veneer is so thin (maybe 2 or 3 pieces of bond paper thk only). When they meet in corners, it's unlike what you see when two thicker ply meet that you need to make a 45 degree cut. You can use wood glue but it takes time to dry unlike contact cement.
An open baffle full range project which used real wood veneer
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/280x200q90/407/p7280143.jpg) (http://imageshack.com/f/bbp7280143j)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/280x200q90/39/p7280142n.jpg) (http://imageshack.com/f/13p7280142nj)
Fertin driver installed. (http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/280x200q90/267/img2586i.jpg) (http://imageshack.com/f/7fimg2586ij)
Kung gagastos ka rin, I suggest use real wood veneer than synthetic. Mas maganda siya.
ganda sir, what do you think of this voxativ design?
(http://www.astrasuite.com/images/voxativ-images/voxativ-ampeggio-1.jpg) (http://www.astrasuite.com/images/voxativ-images)
Yan actually ang inspiration ng owner ng fertin though the voxativ is a backloaded horn, if I'm correct.hindi namn sir nag advice ng ganyan si d.dicks. ang ganda lang ng design. wala din ako idea kung anu magiging sq pag AN or MA ang ilagay. but the piano finish certainly looks very good on the eyes... curious lang sa magiging outcome. do you think sir its a good project?
As in all things in audio, me compromise din yang backloaded horn. Yung iba type yan, yung iba ayaw naman nila. Inaadvice ba ni David Dicks ang ganyang design? Gusto mo subukan baka magwork.
Yan actually ang inspiration ng owner ng fertin though the voxativ is a backloaded horn, if I'm correct.sir, I am very curious sa back loaded horn design plus audio nirvana drivers, magwo work kaya yun?
As in all things in audio, me compromise din yang backloaded horn. Yung iba type yan, yung iba ayaw naman nila. Inaadvice ba ni David Dicks ang ganyang design? Gusto mo subukan baka magwork.
sir, I am very curious sa back loaded horn design plus audio nirvana drivers, magwo work kaya yun?ayan na, bagay yn sa place mo sir shrek...
ayan na, bagay yn sa place mo sir shrek...
My friend and I tried AN 8" in a backloaded horn designed for lowthers. Forgot the specific design. With ANs, sound is very thin.thank you sir sa info, i guess sa look lang pwede gayahin kung AN...
You can copy the voxativ look but make it a BR or TL instead.
my latest box...raw finish
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/SAM_0266_zpsdc8a2084.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/SAM_0266_zpsdc8a2084.jpg.html)
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/SAM_0263_zps4d6dab13.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/SAM_0263_zps4d6dab13.jpg.html)
the builder....camera shy!!!
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/SAM_0262_zps6668ac00.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/SAM_0262_zps6668ac00.jpg.html)
my latest box...raw finish
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/SAM_0266_zpsdc8a2084.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/SAM_0266_zpsdc8a2084.jpg.html)
Looking great... 8) Can't wait to see the finished pair... :Dthanks sir!
Sir Remington, on my first glance i thought this was a pylon ;Dsure bro parang two towers hehehe, mahirap lang gawin mabusisi!
parinig pag na run-in na.
mahirap lang gawin mabusisi!di bale, for sure sulit naman yan.
my latest box...raw finish
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/SAM_0263_zps4d6dab13.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/SAM_0263_zps4d6dab13.jpg.html)
the builder....camera shy..
the builder....camera shy!!!na-jingle yata... ;D
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/SAM_0262_zps6668ac00.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/SAM_0262_zps6668ac00.jpg.html)
na-jingle yata... ;D
wala ba construction pics? daya naman buo agad. :P
...
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/SAM_0267_zps5b0bc24f.jpg)
parang katulad ng binding posts ng omega speakers ni sir diy_master.
parang alam ko kung saan galing yan....pero quiet lang me...:D
ang laking bookshelf nyan jun! ;D
Pabulong naman.....TY
sssshh....atin atin lang....sa Golden Mars sa Raon ako nakakita nyan....:Dmeron ba nito sa golden mars baka mas mura dun sayang di ko nakita!
sssshh....atin atin lang....sa Golden Mars sa Raon ako nakakita nyan....:D
95% finish...port cover and stuffing nalang. Pretty satisfied with the SQ!
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/SAM_0313_zps45d30ef7.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/SAM_0313_zps45d30ef7.jpg.html)
Jun, you defied all the odds in a manner of speaking. ;)....good job....+1 sana me pogi points din dito.... ;Dthanks master pero hindi lang sa salita mas maganda pakinggan hehehe
@remington - how did you come up with the enclosure design? what calculator or simulator did you use?it just came up to mind because I was aiming for the ambience type of enclosure so instead of putting it on top I asked my friend who made it to make the upper part slanted so that the top driver will not only serves as an ambience driver but a main speaker as well because I will be making it in a bi-ampable type of speaker. No calculator nor science in this build because I personally believe that in audio we should always trust our ears not the numbers because at the end of the day I will be the one who will use it and will listen to it ;D and besides that is what DIY is all about di ba? to do what you want and not what others tell you ;) matigas kasi ulo ko hindi ako marunong sumunod sa iba :D, I just upgraded the size of my previous box because I heard xbase's AN box almost similar to the size of this box and it sounds spectacular thats why I copied it but just a little bit bigger :D
it just came up to mind because I was aiming for the ambience type of enclosure so instead of putting it on top I asked my friend who made it to make the upper part slanted so that the top driver will not only serves as an ambience driver but a main speaker as well because I will be making it in a bi-ampable type of speaker. No calculator nor science in this build because I personally believe that in audio we should always trust our ears not the numbers because at the end of the day I will be the one who will use it and will listen to it ;D and besides that is what DIY is all about di ba? to do what you want and not what others tell you ;) matigas kasi ulo ko hindi ako marunong sumunod sa iba :D, I just upgraded the size of my previous box because I heard xbase's AN box almost similar to the size of this box and it sounds spectacular thats why I copied it but just a little bit bigger :D
I hate to break this to you bro but science & math are the foundations of this entire hi-fi hullabaloo ;) The concept, topology, implementation etc involved in designing an audio product are based on these foundations. If there was no science involved in building your speakers then you really defied the odds...as well as the entire concept of audio design hehehe But if you're happy with the results then I'm happy for you. cheers!yup you are right about that, but in this build I did not consult nor use any of those calculators and simulators that you are asking, this is built on just pure instinct and so far the outcome for me is quite nice. I have heared diy boxes made by other builders who based their builds on those formulas but not in general huh dont get me wrong ;D and infact purchased some , but for me maraming kulang sa tunog. I have tried to tweaked it but kulang pa din, so if you will ask me
Amar Bose and Matthew Polk in the making... congrats!Actually Bose nga nasa isip ko kasi ang concept parang direct reflecting eh. Or Duevel planets na omnidirectional. But Remington is right na kung saan ka masaya yun importante kasi most of the time ang owner naman ang makikinig sa sariling system nya.
Actually Bose nga nasa isip ko kasi ang concept parang direct reflecting eh. Or Duevel planets na omnidirectional. But Remington is right na kung saan ka masaya yun importante kasi most of the time ang owner naman ang makikinig sa sariling system nya.
Anyway, congrats to the owner!
I'm now at finishing stage of 4 way dipole, X-over by calculations only to get parts value, used SPL meter to balance driver's output levels and other tuning all by air (ear).
Here's a pic...
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/ram_on/DIY/imagejpg1_zps3604f10c.jpg)
It's at temporary location while work is in progress, base will be added to mount the spike.
I'm now at finishing stage of 4
IMO, one still needs to use calculators/formulas in xover design especially for us beginners to get to the nearest values and so to make life easier. Then change values little by little to get to the desired performance as you tune by ear. Sayang naman ang science di ba kung di pakinabangan...
kaya madami builders ayaw ng multi-drivers dahil sa crossover design - second lang yun losses ang reason. it's easily a cause for a make or break in a multi-driver design.
noon, basta lagyan lang ng capacitor yun pt-6 tofutofu na... di na naisip yun attenuation at integration. ;D
I'm now at finishing stage of 4 way dipole, X-over by calculations only to get parts value, used SPL meter to balance driver's output levels and other tuning all by air (ear).wow! look at that crossover. the mother of all crossover!
Here's a pic...
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/ram_on/DIY/imagejpg1_zps3604f10c.jpg)
It's at temporary location while work is in progress, base will be added to mount the spike.
Pinakamahirap talaga ang crossover design.
Ung PT6 yan yung pioneer di ba? Ung square mouth na nilalagay sa dyip? parang natatandaan ko nung college ako bumili rin ako nyan at kinabit ko on top sa lumang speaker namin. Ang ganda ng kalansing pag pinatutugtog ko si Michael Jackson doing 'Don't Stop Til you get enough.' :)
I agree with this statement by sir Larry.
There's this saying in the visual arts world to which I live by; "Follow the rules, learn the basics and when you have mastered both, BREAK THEM! Then create your own style."
Grabeng crossover yan brother! Ang ganda ng execution. You need plenty of amplifier power to run those speakers. How's the SQ?
IMO, one still needs to use calculators/formulas in xover design especially for us beginners to get to the nearest values and so to make life easier. Then change values little by little to get to the desired performance as you tune by ear. Sayang naman ang science di ba kung di pakinabangan. Isa pa, ok lang kung napakarami mong stash ng capacitors, resistors, and inductors na naipon through the years. Kung hindi napakagastos gumawa ng xover sa pageexperiment. One time, we made passive 3-way xover using solen flat coil inductors and boutique capacitors (and even added transformer attenuators)for a 3-way horn system. Cost me about P20k for a pair of xovers alone. What if di maganda tunog sa una mo pa lang try. Di lumalaki ang gastos.
Picture of the said xover and horn speaker.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/280x200q90/23/bday0920091231238.jpg) (http://imageshack.com/f/0nbday0920091231238j)
Sir Tony walang problema sa yo yang paggawa ng xover. Tatawanan mo lang yan!
susmaryosep! yan ang crossover! 8)
thumbsup!
author=deist link=topic=22682.msg2169687#msg2169687 date=1409576310]
Beautiful! this is one hell of a project, kudos to you sir O0
If you don't mind, can you share with us the details like; drivers used & implementation, crossover settings etc. I assume the top 3 drivers are OB? TIA.
Meron na rin akong napakinggan na horn system, napaka wide ng midrange at kailangan heavily attenuated dahil sa taas ng sensitivity...
wow! look at that crossover. the mother of all crossover!
What I did to my system to solve the problem you mentioned is to go active. I use 2 sets of 2A3 SET amps to separately drive the mids and the highs and then solid state sa woofers. In this configuration, it is the Iows that I attenuate because of the high sensitivity of the Altecs @ 100db. I really love this system because importante sa akin ang scale when I listen to music (aside from the fact that ako may gawa nito ha ha!).
Might go 4-way because I have an extra mid-bass horn waiting to be installed.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/280x200q90/401/p9040087.jpg) (http://imageshack.com/f/b5p9040087j)
Ganito yata talaga ang mga DIYers eh. Hindi humihinto sa pag-explore kahit madalas madapa. :)
Saan ka located? Any chance I can listen to your 4-way set-up?
we are lucky to be able to access pareng Google,
copy paste lang nagkayari na.....:D
one downside to multiway is the need for more power
to compensate for the insertion losses that the passive
cross-overs bring, but then there is active cross-overing
which is even more flexible.....zero insertion loss...
Medyo malayo ang location ko... Dito ako sa Kuwait... Kelan ka pasyal? :D
Ang layo mo pala! Magpapa book muna ko.
Compared sa total cost of passive parts for a complicated xover, di na rin lalayo sa presyo ng active. I use MiniDsp 2x8 @ $300. Though me additional processing, one would not notice kung di mo lang ipapaalam sa nakikinig. But you have tons of flexibility naman like delay, different types of filters and slopes, EQ, etc.
Ang layo mo pala! Magpapa book muna ko.
Compared sa total cost of passive parts for a complicated xover, di na rin lalayo sa presyo ng active. I use MiniDsp 2x8 @ $300. Though me additional processing, one would not notice kung di mo lang ipapaalam sa nakikinig. But you have tons of flexibility naman like delay, different types of filters and slopes, EQ, etc.
Larry,
Where is the best way to get the miniDSP?
IMO, one still needs to use calculators/formulas in xover design especially for us beginners to get to the nearest values and so to make life easier. Then change values little by little to get to the desired performance as you tune by ear. Sayang naman ang science di ba kung di pakinabangan. Isa pa, ok lang
Picture of the said xover and horn speaker.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/280x200q90/23/bday0920091231238.jpg) (http://imageshack.com/f/0nbday0920091231238j)
yan din sabi lawyer ko eh... know and follow the rules before you break them! ;D ;D ;D
Pa-share naman ng number ng lawyer mo master, I might need a "creative' thinking lawyer someday ;D >:D
Tama kayo brader, kailangan ang science dito at mathematics aside from endless research form infonet (Internet ). Dinaanan ko yan dagdag bawas ng values kahit meron na value sa calculation. Values are just the starting point pero the actual result depende sa drivers actual performance at integration or blending between drivers. Kahit fixed na ang cut-off freq. kailangan din extended listening session of different genre ng music. Took me almost a year to fine tune and finalized the design. I also accumulated a box of x-over parts dahil sa daming kinahoy na speakers. The added toroid is part of a circuit for bass driver..
Thank you sir.... It's my weekend & holidays project ...
Yes, the 3 drivers mounted at flat panel. Woofer w/ H frame enclosure, open at the back but front form like Bandpass type. Originally, it's 12" woofer but found 15" which matches well with the configuration. So, it's now version 2 w/ 15" woofer. Midrange is 6.5" vintage wharfedale coated paper cone (very open in vocal). Twt-1 1" seas & Twt-2 kenwood horn.
Cut-off freq. bass- 80hz/12db, mid- 130hz/6db (low) - 3.5khz/12db (high), T1- 3.5khz/12db~ 22khz(max), T-2- 16khz/12db~ 50khz(max). Mid,T1&T2 are fixed attenuated to not use L-pad. Used same notch filter and impedance equalization from driver original crossover. If you notice freq. gap bet woofer & mid, in theory and number there's freq. hole but in real world of dipole environment our ears will not hear it. I also made the BP low 6db, @ 1 octave it covers down to 65hz. Fine tuning were done by extended listening sessions and opinions from friends who have different sound quality perceptions...
hahaha sure! anong forte ang gusto mo brader? pang criminal o civil case? sabihan mo lang ako which rules you want to break hahaha! ;D ;D ;D
Ang layo mo pala! Magpapa book muna ko.
Compared sa total cost of passive parts for a complicated xover, di na rin lalayo sa presyo ng active. I use MiniDsp 2x8 @ $300. Though me additional processing, one would not notice kung di mo lang ipapaalam sa nakikinig. But you have tons of flexibility naman like delay, different types of filters and slopes, EQ, etc.
CRIMINAL!!!!! >:D >:D >:D
Delay is very important imho, plus the passive solution also causes phase angle deviations. The best yan naging solution mo brader.
Can you please tell us more about this MiniDSP?
Hahaha! Somehow, I knew it! >:D
malapit na ;) >:D
Been hearing a lot of good experience with MiniDSP from many users over at DIYaudio, maybe in my next build will try to incorporate it. Also eager to hear your experience with it sir Larry.
magtimpi ang unang payo sa akin eh... but if all else failes, naka speed dial naman ang number sa cell ko... >:D
Been hearing a lot of good experience with MiniDSP from many users over at DIYaudio, maybe in my next build will try to incorporate it. Also eager to hear your experience with it sir Larry.
Delay is very important imho, plus the passive solution also causes phase angle deviations. The best yan naging solution mo brader.
Can you please tell us more about this MiniDSP?
This is what I'm talking about, the calculators/simulators will be a big help as a starting point of a project. Without a solid starting point you will be shooting aimlessly. Thanks sir.
Thanks for sharing the details sir. It shows na talagang malaking panahon ang ginugol mo from research to execution.
Nose bleed ako ngayon sa MiniDSP.... ;D
Ang maganda sa DSP, expert ka agad. :) :) :)
Kidding aside, the minidsp 2x8 requires a separate dc supply. Also, a plugin that can be purchased from minidsp.com. Yung sakin, nilagay ko lang sa wooden box but I'm sure mas maganda kung magawan ng magandang aluminum enclosure ito. You need a pc to be able to use the plugin, ofcourse. There is where you do the adjustments and settings.
Digital domain ang processing ng minidsp unlike other active crossovers. Mas flexible siya at mas maraming features. I was able to try a Sony Esprit active analog crossover which is very much expensive compared to the minidsp but I still like the resulting SQ from the minidsp. Mas kapit ika nga. Mas marami pa yatang brand na mas mahal pa sa minidsp pero ok na ko dito.
Importante sakin ang delay kasi if you will see my speakers, nakaforward ang woofers at nasa likod ang compression drivers and compression tweeters. Physically, I have no way anymore of adjusting the vertical alignment of my drivers because of physical constraints. With dsp, I can put some delay sa woofers. Malaking improvement sa integration ng bawat drivers and sa imaging. With dsp also, I was able to EQ bass sa aking system. Me certain frequencies na na-eexcite ng room ko. I cut a few db sa problem freq and ok na. What I don't do is add. I'd rather cut. But it's just me. No equalization sa mids and highs akong ginawa.
Picture of my present speakers
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/280x200q90/853/7mdr.jpg) (http://imageshack.com/f/np7mdrj)
You have the option to use Butterworth, Linkwitz Riley, Bessel. Up to 48db/oct pwede. You can also cut the frequencies where you think your drivers work at their best and can even introduce holes in the frequencies between where two drivers operate para walang masyadong sapawan. Mataas pa sampling rate @96khz. Napakahirap gawin sa passive crossover ng magagawa nito and it will surely cost a lot.
Ang ayaw lang ng mga purists is the additional processing. Pero sa totoo lang, they will not even notice kung di mo lang sasabihin. Maganda pa rin magpatugtog ng plaka! Ang isang compromise solution is to mimic in passive when one had already tuned the settings in digital.
Hi Larry,
Thanks for the concise info brader, parang masarap paglaruan yan. How about EQ'ing? Natuwa ako sa Behringer Ultra Curve, very useful basta wag lang abusive ang use. Oh well, kanya-kanya din yan eh.
Anyway, wala naman siguro problema sa akin ang separate power supply, marunong pa naman ako siguro gumawa nun hahaha! ;D Kaya ko na din gawan ng wood casing yan pero parang mas gusto ko yata kung aluminum brader.
Last question, hindi kaya ako mabaliw sa mga pag ayos ng plugins? I mean, user friendly naman ba siya?
Thanks!
PS: Nice speaker setup bro!
Thanks bro.
Parang driverack PA+ din ang Behringer di ba? Kays lang parang may tweak pa yata ginagawa sa Behringer para gumanda SQ. Baka di na lalayo yan sa Minidsp kasi pareho halos function. Advantage ng Behringer ay may monitor na agad itong kasama whereas kailangan pa ng PC ng minidsp kung me adjustment ka.
Madali lang ang mga Plugins. Very user friendly. Napakadali magpalit ng cutoff freq and slope. And you can change them even while listening to the speakers.
Very minimal lang ang EQ ko at sa woofers lang. Kelangan kong attenuate konti a certain freq na problem sa room ko. Mainly ang adjustment ko ay sa volume control na ng amplifiers sa final blending ng drivers at di na sa minidsp.
Jojo,
Grabe pala naman. Ikaw pala ang nagmomodify ng behringer eh! Op amp ba ang pnapalitan?
Di ko gusto ang kinalalabasan sa auto-EQ sa experience ko sa mga gumamit ng driverack. Parang sobrang bright ang tunog. Mas maganda, IME, sa driverack (ewan ko sa behringer) is to flatten ung mga peaks na dinagdag sa auto-EQ. Un namang mga binawasan, as is na lang.
keep it coming mga master about minidsp/behringer mods. interestedto learn that for proper tuning of our DIY speakers! if ever na gumawa kayo ng ibang thread pa share link. thanks...
ito lang yata talaga solution sa multi drivers configuration para matapatan o mahigitan ang may pinaka magandang full range performance. baka in the near future, ang speaker system natin ay parang midi channels na rin. iba iba ang drivers per instrument at vocals :D
di ko lang alam kung papatok ito sa mga audio purist. hehe.
ito lang yata talaga solution sa multi drivers configuration para matapatan o mahigitan ang may pinaka magandang full range performance. baka in the near future, ang speaker system natin ay parang midi channels na rin. iba iba ang drivers per instrument at vocals :DDi lang naman ito ang solution sa multi-driver speakers. Nandyan din ang passive line-level xover o PLLXO. You can google it. Me thread pa yata ito sa DIYAUDIO.
di ko lang alam kung papatok ito sa mga audio purist. hehe.
May solusyon pala sa "audio purists" - bumili ng dalawang system. :)
Actually yan ang plano ko in the future. Maybe a simple full range para kapag uugod-ugod na ko, isa o dalawang switch na lang ang i-oopen ko may music na ko. Ngayon kasi, I have to turn-on 9 switches including 2 AVRs para makinig ng plaka, 7 switches naman pag digital. Ha ha!
the day it ends is the day I die... I'm desperately trying other hobbies but I end up where I started...Ako naman, when i die... I will try something new. Hehehe
Ako naman, when i die... I will try something new. Hehehe
Tony,
Correct ka Sir!. Sa akin lang, the moment you said to yourself na Game Over na dahil nakuha mo na gusto mo tunog is the time you also stop na sa audio and concern yourself with other hobbies. Never ending kasi ang audio.
The coffin you will make must be awesome.Nope, no coffin.... A simple box suits me fine. What i probably do is visit people na makulit tapos sila naman kuklitin ko. Hehehe
The coffin you will make must be awesome.
Nope, no coffin.... A simple box suits me fine. What i probably do is visit people na makulit tapos sila naman kuklitin ko. Hehehe
(http://i966.photobucket.com/albums/ae146/vennsky123/DSC_1042_zps56a258ff.jpg) (http://s966.photobucket.com/user/vennsky123/media/DSC_1042_zps56a258ff.jpg.html)
hi mga bro nag try ako diy acrylic baffle for my jbl 2500..
material used : acrylic
thickness : 12mm
used stainless allen bolt and nuts.
(http://i966.photobucket.com/albums/ae146/vennsky123/DSC_1041_zps398b0760.jpg) (http://s966.photobucket.com/user/vennsky123/media/DSC_1041_zps398b0760.jpg.html)
[/quote(http://i966.photobucket.com/albums/ae146/vennsky123/DSC_1042_zps56a258ff.jpg) (http://s966.photobucket.com/user/vennsky123/media/DSC_1042_zps56a258ff.jpg.html)
hi mga bro nag try ako diy acrylic baffle for my jbl 2500..
material used : acrylic
thickness : 12mm
used stainless allen bolt and nuts.
(http://i966.photobucket.com/albums/ae146/vennsky123/DSC_1041_zps398b0760.jpg) (http://s966.photobucket.com/user/vennsky123/media/DSC_1041_zps398b0760.jpg.html)
Beautiful! Paano stuffing? Ang taas ng wife acceptance factor nito!
Never
HI BRO SA CIRCULAR SAW LNG YAN YON EDGE NAKA ESKUALA LNG MAGANDA..
try ko subukan walang foam. chloroform gamit ko sa dikit bro.
Thanks bro, I assume syringe din ang applicator mo.
mostly nakikita ko syringe yun gamit with chlorofoam inside but they modify yun push lever into wood.
oo nga ganun gamit nila pag apply sir. matindi yan chloroform kaunti lang pero madikit na.
oo nga ganun gamit nila pag apply sir. matindi yan chloroform kaunti lang pero madikit na.sobra dikit nakikita ko, meron nabibili sa rizal avenue sta cruz manila sa mc donnell yata yun na chlorofoam at mga acrylic puede pre -cut din, medyo mahal yung chlorofoam nasa P1,000 plus ata per bottle. meron din gumagawa any shape at pede rin cover ng TT or platter or foot shape sa katabi lang noon store.
bro syringe ang gamit ko konti lng dikit na. acrylic supplier kami at cutting din.
bro syringe ang gamit ko konti lng dikit na. acrylic supplier kami at cutting din.
clear lng meron ako 12mm and 18mm. opaque black ko 2mm at 3mm
I see... maganda pang projects yan sir... btw, what's the going rate for a square foot of 12mm and 18mm nowadays?
Thanks
Acrylic covers for your amps would be nice and would not react with the transformers as compared to metal covers......
Acrylic covers for your amps would be nice and would not react with the transformers as compared to metal covers......are metal covers bad?
magkano pa cut ng 12mm acrylic 15 inches x 3 1/2 inches, please pm me and shop location, thanks....
beautiful creation sir audiojunkie!
Ganda ng DIY speaker mo sir. Anong kahoy ang ginamit nyo?
Salamat sir... Mixed ng solid wood, plywood & MDF. front panel plywood used in cargo shipping, maganda lang yung outer layer. Side panels & woofer enclosure made form old furniture. Base from local furniture shop but not good quality so wood grain not clear on varnish.
Same wood used in the crossover box...
OB15 Crossover
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/ram_on/x-over/imagejpg1_zpseaeaa2cc.jpg)
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/ram_on/x-over/imagejpg1_zps12fd4d59.jpg)
ang lupit sir.. ganda :o :o
Try mo jbl c34 - http://www.lansingheritage.org/html/jbl/plans/C34.htm
Or Onken
Super tweeter na lang kulang mo sir , JBL 075 or 2405 ok na..
Those EVs are great for midbass horns!
Not so much LF, IMO, because of high Fs.
Any recommended horn design & size.
Extracted this TS parameters from online specs.
Fs - 43Hz
Qts - .238
Qms - 4.96
Qes - .250
Vas - .245
Xmax - 3.3mm
Re - 5.2 ohms
Naghahap ako Nelson ng treatment para sa 5 liter DIY bookshelf speaker ko. Kaso ang hinahanap ko is 1" dense open cell foam. Yung walang eggshell moulding Flat.
Realistically ang naabsorb ng acoustic foam is 500hz and up. So perfect for my 100hz tuned ported bookshelf. Mids and highs ang lilinisin.
Mayroon ka ba nun?
Looks the part. 1 inch sana perfect for me.
anyone here that builds crossover? hehe
Check this sir...
http://www.pinoydvd.com/index.php/topic,66494.3180.html
nice one! pm sent sir
@eestrera - beautiful speakers! parang jvc-victor yung drivers sir? Galing ng woodworking, ganda pa ng ginamit na kahoy. Congrats! 8)
I heard those JVC wood cones many years back when I was pitching for the JVC account. We were brought to their Pasay Rd showroom. Very crisp sound speakers. They couldn't make them bigger because the material would not be able to sustain the stress.
If have not already done so, and if there is room, try listening with the speakers 1/3 the length of the room form front wall. Then chair 1/3 the length from the back wall. You will bring out the bass.
Hi, guys.
I'm planning on doing DIY speakers in the future.
I'm thinking on using Bamboo plywood, is this a good idea?
Anyone knows kung saan may nabibiling bamboo plywood?
Tia!
sir try this "south sea veneer corp" contact number #893-330-346 di pa ako naka pag inquire but they are making a bamboo type tiles for flooring....baka meron sila na big sizes sir...
I like to see YOURS in action. What happened to it?
Switch channel ka pala. What's is going into the car? Fancy false floor in the trunk or straight installation?
hi mga master...i need a full range speaker na mga 2.5"-3" lang diameter...parang mga bose...anybody can point me the right direction would be greatly appreciated. thanks in advance mga bossing.
hi mga master...i need a full range speaker na mga 2.5"-3" lang diameter...parang mga bose...anybody can point me the right direction would be greatly appreciated. thanks in advance mga bossing.
Bamboo is what DeVore Fidelity uses on their speakers.
maganda sigurado finish nyan!!!!eye and ear candy :o :o :o
Ganda naman nyan sir! Anong design ng enclosure? Sale din po ba sir sa GR?
WOW naman :o :o :o hexited na sa magiging finish ;D
Update lang sa AN project.
Some more details and pwede na isara ang cabinet. Had to put in place the double baffle and T-nuts next.
(http://i.imgur.com/1Kx9mAI.jpg)
I noticed the box had veneer before the shaping of the trim pieces. Was the veneer applied after the basic box was made or as plywood sheets?
In the pictures, the veneer sample was warpy if you excuse the word. I thought they were bought flat. Is that how veneer is sold? Scary pala. Looks very fragile.
I noticed the box had veneer before the shaping of the trim pieces. Was the veneer applied after the basic box was made or as plywood sheets?
In the pictures, the veneer sample was warpy if you excuse the word. I thought they were bought flat. Is that how veneer is sold? Scary pala. Looks very fragile.
The veneer was applied to plywood pieces using a hot press machine. Yes warpy talaga and fragile ang wood veneer since less than a mm lang ang thickness nito. What you see in the pictures are double ply veneer applied to plywood. I was lucky to be working in an industrial facility where a veneering company is located.
If the cabinet is finished already, you will have a hard time veneering although doable naman applying veneer. We have done this when we refurbished a JBL paragon speaker pero mahirap. Rugby ang pwedeng pandikit.
Wood-on-wood, also known as "2-ply veneer" is two wood veneers permanently bonded together. The face veneer grain is perpendicular to the backer veneer which provides protection against bubbling which occurs when a veneer is improperly bonded to the substrate. This type of "crossband construction" allows the veneer to bend on moderate curves in the horizontal or vertical direction. The veneer used on the back side of a 2-ply veneer is often an imported hardwood of lesser value.
Sir Larry,
If I don't have access to a hot machine press & will do the veneering manually, how would you suggest I go about it?
Thanks!
Larry, do you have access to hide glue?
Sir Larry,
If I don't have access to a hot machine press & will do the veneering manually, how would you suggest I go about it?
Thanks!
Just sharing my Karlson enclosure with Jensen Delta coaxial driver,high region was made using L-pad and thick aluminum sheet.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xtf1/v/t1.0-9/11391340_495966340571281_5863150056972701586_n.jpg?oh=6c68f6715ecf20b7342732ad1f21c04a&oe=5607D0A4&__gda__=1441349119_42244a14d26bd3d93d1770b098c24d8d)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpt1/v/t1.0-9/11248341_495966400571275_4756433075835046428_n.jpg?oh=6270e94d48bf4e3e9a498740aa7534ca&oe=55EE68D2&__gda__=1443714774_13b1f11fd4ae7f3735cf4ed52faa9e3e)
(https://scontent-sin1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xat1/v/t1.0-9/11393233_495966427237939_1862556184769386691_n.jpg?oh=80d99a0680addaf7c071397c00822cd7&oe=55ED6464)
ito nadale ng mabait na bata....pinirmahan....
Heads up! May mga small drivers na binebenta sa HMR sa Ever Commonwealth. You might want to check it out.
Nice! Ano kayang mga drivers yan, and what sizes? Vintage?
Not vintage. May 3-4". May 8". I think galing sa mga busted speakers nila. But it's dirt cheap. Yun nakita kong 3" that looks like woofer sells for P60 only. Great for DIY projects if you initially don't want to spend much. Not sure kung new tweeters din for ambient sound like the topic discussed sa As audio thread. Hehe!
Kakainis, sana may malapit na HMR dito. Sarap tignan hehe, mura naman
Tago mo na lang for future projects as long as gamitin mo siya within 2 years, or you have to wrap it properly.
@lvins - nice speakers you got there! DIY mo ba yang Karlson enclosures?
@lvins
Signature series sir :)
Thanks Sir,Yup downloaded the specs for Karlson 12,swak na swak ang Jensen Delta.Bagay sya talaga for coaxials 98db and up,I tried Philips AD1970M but for me Triaxials/coaxials are best for these type of enclosures.
Ganda details,bass is extraordinary...IMHO..anyway sound is always subjective..
naging signature series nga yung isang box,hirap talaga kapag may terrible 2 year old. >:( :)
Ayos lang yan sir, also in the same boat as yours. Ganyan talaga pag may little chikiting pa. But I know you will agree with me in saying that any speakers or any audio gear, no matter how good they sound can't even come close to the happiness the little chikiting brings ;) O0
Guys,
I need a quick help, nahirapan na ako magresearch ulit, medyo rush kasi. Naresearch ko na dati pero nakalimutan ko na ulit :p
I need to a 1.2uf capacitor to be used for 1st order crossover on a tweeter, pero that value is rarely made, so nearest is using two 0.56uf capacitors (=1.12uf ok na rin) . Ano ba configuration, in PARALLEL or SERIES? And sa + ng tweeter ilalagay di ba? And kailangan ba ireverse ang polarity?
Note: No more resistor will be installed, may attenuator na ako
parallel. wire it in series and capacitance will reduce it in half.
http://keisan.casio.com/exec/system/1258035746
Guys,
I need a quick help, nahirapan na ako magresearch ulit, medyo rush kasi. Naresearch ko na dati pero nakalimutan ko na ulit :p
I need to a 1.2uf capacitor to be used for 1st order crossover on a tweeter, pero that value is rarely made, so nearest is using two 0.56uf capacitors (=1.12uf ok na rin) . Ano ba configuration, in PARALLEL or SERIES? And sa + ng tweeter ilalagay di ba? And kailangan ba ireverse ang polarity?
Note: No more resistor will be installed, may attenuator na ako
no use agonizing over exact values, stick a 1ufd cap in there and be done with it...;)
1 ufd film caps are very easy to get, meron nyan sa deeco...
meron din nyan dito...http://www.epektos.com/product/ac2bf3a6-da48-4710-8750-fecf959a1afc.aspx
Guys,
I need a quick help, nahirapan na ako magresearch ulit, medyo rush kasi. Naresearch ko na dati pero nakalimutan ko na ulit :p
I need to a 1.2uf capacitor to be used for 1st order crossover on a tweeter, pero that value is rarely made, so nearest is using two 0.56uf capacitors (=1.12uf ok na rin) . Ano ba configuration, in PARALLEL or SERIES? And sa + ng tweeter ilalagay di ba? And kailangan ba ireverse ang polarity?
Note: No more resistor will be installed, may attenuator na ako
Bigla kong naalala, 1uf is 20khz cutoff @ 8 ohms. Ganun kataas cut-off for the super tweeter?
Yes, sometimes even higher. It assumes that the main drivers are capable of the nominal bandwidth of up to 20KHz. Otherwise you'll have high frequency splash over.
Ah ok. I thought king would love to add some air and i would go for 12khz-16khz region
Bigla kong naalala, 1uf is 20khz cutoff @ 8 ohms. Ganun kataas cut-off for the super tweeter?
Looks very similar to the Tannoy Sterling:
(http://www.esoteric.jp/products/tannoy/stirlingroyalse/img/stirling_01.jpg)
Nice workmanship.
ano magandang wood for speaker enclosure available locally?
Do you mean as cabinet material and not as outer ply or veneer?
In my experience, it is not advisable to use pure solid wood panels as they are prone to cracking which may affect the speaker's performance especially for ported enclosures. Not much of a problem though with open baffle speakers.
Much better to use solid wood panels as the exterior ply or laminate of speakers made of plywood or mdf.
gagawa kasi ako ng box for a 2 way speaker, province sir yung sa amen, traditional hardware and lumber store yung available mostly ordinary plywood or plyboard..
I suggest you use 1/2" -3/4" ply (marine ply is better) then laminate 1/2" thk solid wood panels to the plywood if you can get such thickness. In Pampanga, we have manual slicers that can cut wood up to 1/2"thk. The thicker the panels of the speaker box, the less bracing you will need.
If it's from Larry, it must be good!
Thanks. Your foam dampening crate works. Though you must experiment how much you should place in the box. In this cabinet, 1 side per opposing panel is sufficient. The bottom part or half of the panel where the foam is placed, I stuffed with fiberglass.
bro larry na sound check mo na yung classic 10 sa box? kamusta SQ?
Bro nung una, medyo prominent ang hi-mids. Medyo kulang sa bass (I experimented with placing the port at the bottom as requested by owner). Gagawa na sana ko ng bsc at zobel pero sabi ko try ko muna tweak ang port before doing anything electrically. Where before butas lang ang port, I decided to extend the port. In conjunction, binawasan ko ang stuffing like the thing I mentioned in the previous post. May bass na. Tuneful bass. I'm using a 2A3 SET amp, btw, with an aikido preamp playing spotify.
PERO, medyo may slight shout pa. Again, naisip ko kaya pa rin masolve ito mechanically. And mukang tama nga ako. Tried something with the dustcap, temporarily. I will measure later to see where the peak is coming from pag tapos na tapos na ang box.
Very transparent at efficient ang AN. Effortless sa SE 2A3 amp. Actually I am surprised na kahit walang whizzer cone, extended ang highs ng Classic.
Hi Larry,
Try placing teased fiberfill in the box space below the driver and before the port .... it may solve the shouty output. Placing more of the dampening crate may have altered or reduced the desired or optimum free air volume of the speaker box. You may just need to handle the standing waves which smears the mid frequencies.
Nice build on the box.
Hi Larry,frequencies.
Try placing teased fiberfill in the box space below the driver and before the port .... it may solve the shouty output. Placing more of the dampening crate may have altered or reduced the desired or optimum free air volume of the speaker box. You may just need to handle the standing waves which smears the mid frequencies.
Nice build on the box.
+1
Another beautiful build sir Larry. Congrats to you & the owner O0
After sanding the cabinets, doing some retouchings, and application of several coats of sanding sealer, the almost finished AN cabinets
(http://i.imgur.com/bXec3YP.jpg)
Application of top coat to follow.
AN drivers are known to be shouty on the first 100-200hrs, after 300 hrs, bass will show its true color, mids will be tamed and the highs will be detailed but not harsh, I experienced the same with my AN drivers during the time when they were still new.Very True indeed. ;)
Thanks bro.
Thanks bro.
Clap. Clap. Clap. Way up there with your best work.
While still waiting for the emblems, I have plenty of time to listen to this pair and probably do some tweaks, if needed still. If you're near Pampanga, those interested may come for a listening session. :)WOOOOOOWWW!!!! Ang ganda!!! I like the grills! I like everything!!!
With grills on
(http://i.imgur.com/ClfVnHu.jpg)
Closer shot
(http://i.imgur.com/N2zeRiu.jpg?1)
Grills off showing the wooden driver rings
(http://i.imgur.com/Sjhy6UA.jpg?1)
Closer shot
(http://i.imgur.com/at5Szt8.jpg?1)
Side view
(http://i.imgur.com/RlXfcti.jpg)
Back view showing the binding posts.
(http://i.imgur.com/SArZRBe.jpg?1)
Listening impressions and maybe a short video to follow.
Thanks for looking.
Nice craftsmanship. If this is down firing, the clearance from the floor must be 1.5" minimum - 2.5".... It has effect when the clearance from the floor is adjusted. :)
Bro nung una, medyo prominent ang hi-mids. Medyo kulang sa bass (I experimented with placing the port at the bottom as requested by owner). Gagawa na sana ko ng bsc at zobel pero sabi ko try ko muna tweak ang port before doing anything electrically. Where before butas lang ang port, I decided to extend the port. In conjunction, binawasan ko ang stuffing like the thing I mentioned in the previous post. May bass na. Tuneful bass. I'm using a 2A3 SET amp, btw, with an aikido preamp playing spotify.
PERO, medyo may slight shout pa. Again, naisip ko kaya pa rin masolve ito mechanically. And mukang tama nga ako. Tried something with the dustcap, temporarily. I will measure later to see where the peak is coming from pag tapos na tapos na ang box.
Very transparent at efficient ang AN. Effortless sa SE 2A3 amp. Actually I am surprised na kahit walang whizzer cone, extended ang highs ng Classic.
While still waiting for the emblems, I have plenty of time to listen to this pair and probably do some tweaks, if needed still. If you're near Pampanga, those interested may come for a listening session. :)
With grills on
(http://i.imgur.com/ClfVnHu.jpg)
Closer shot
(http://i.imgur.com/N2zeRiu.jpg?1)
Grills off showing the wooden driver rings
(http://i.imgur.com/Sjhy6UA.jpg?1)
Closer shot
(http://i.imgur.com/at5Szt8.jpg?1)
Side view
(http://i.imgur.com/RlXfcti.jpg)
Back view showing the binding posts.
(http://i.imgur.com/SArZRBe.jpg?1)
Listening impressions and maybe a short video to follow.
Thanks for looking.
ang ganda!!! sayang malayo ako sa pampangga mapakinggan sana...video naman!!!!!!
nice to know Larry, i had my doubts when we were testing that passive network....
did you use an RTA to make adjustments?
Jun eto na video. I have done no further changes to the cabinet except inserting a passive equalizer made by Tony in the chain. Problem 'shout' was gone. If the drivers are fully burn-in, then maybe the passive equalizer is no longer needed. I used Wendel's vintage fisher tube amp currently with me as the test amp with the tone controls set at "0".very nice ganda ng SQ kahit youtube! matutuwa for sure ang may ari nyan. Great job very well done!!! congrats...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JO95kO6B1aY&feature=youtu.be
And another
https://youtu.be/_7dIt2hFxm4
Source is laptop playing spotify. Preamp is aikido loaned from Louie M.
Thanks for looking.
LG G3 cellphone lang. Maayos pala mic nito.
Larry, ano nga pala ginamit mong pang video nyan, cellphone mo?
Jun eto na video. I have done no further changes to the cabinet except inserting a passive equalizer made by Tony in the chain. Problem 'shout' was gone. If the drivers are fully burn-in, then maybe the passive equalizer is no longer needed. I used Wendel's vintage fisher tube amp currently with me as the test amp with the tone controls set at "0".ang ganda ng tunog ah!!! Astig!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JO95kO6B1aY&feature=youtu.be
And another
https://youtu.be/_7dIt2hFxm4
Source is laptop playing spotify. Preamp is aikido loaned from Louie M.
Thanks for looking.
Rsource < 2k ohm
R1 = 10k
C1 = 1500pF
R2 = 12k
C2 = 0.033uF
Rload > 50k
Cload = 200pF
con su permiso, camoteque....link to baffle step correction....by Paul Joppa
http://www.t-linespeakers.org/tech/bafflestep/passive-BSC.html
you can ask your friendly cable maker to make one for you, it is very easy to make
and has been proven to reduce "shouting" in the audio nirvana FR speakers....
(http://p10hifi.net/TLS/tech/bafflestep/images/joppa-PLLBSC.gif)
should you have further questions, feel free to ask....;)
since most pre-amps/buffers/sources will have source resistance in the
neighborhood of 1k and power amps' input impedance more than 50k in most cases...
just two resistors and 2 capacitors are all you need to implement this...
this are recommended values:
if you are experiencing "shouts" in your mids/vocals as they call it, this will help,
otherwise kung okey naman ang mids mo, then no need na...so case by case basis,
you may or may not need this...
Atty. Teta, I may be wrong but could it be "break in"?
tube amp biasing?
tube amp biasing?
tube amp biasing?
I noticed a definite improvement when I switched back to my Sovtek 2A3s from my Psvane 2A3Bs. I think the Psvanes over-emphasized the mids - hence, the "shouts". Aside from the lessened shouts, I noticed that the sound seems fuller and rounder with the Sovteks compared to the Psvanes. Also, the subtle pops / crackles from the Psvanes disappeared with the Sovteks. Then again, that's just me and I could've been just imagining things. :)
Since I'm a newbie to tubes, I had my SE amp checked out by its creator, Master Tony, before and after replacing the tubes to ensure that the biasing was right.. Tony confirmed that everything worked fine. The PSVane's performance would've been fine if I hadn't gotten used to the Sovteks' performance. The difference was most glaring when using content of the highest resolution since there is a noticeable drop in detail, loss of focus, and narrowing of soundstage.
Try NOS RCA 2A3 instead :)
Di kaya may problema ang Psvane tubes? Maganda siguro ipatest ito at baka defective? Pwede naman check voltages sa plate and cathode ng psvane tube while the amp is running. What do you think Sir Tony? Or nacheck na, na-miss ko lang sa above post? Di pa ba tayo OT?
give your tubes some time to settle in...
no two tubes are exactly alike, there will be differences no matter how slight...
i will make you a pair of cables to use on your Pasvanes and for you to try.......
this happens when you have options to try....;)
i wonder how Shuguangs will fare in this amp, since the amp was designed around them...
looks like i may have to build another 2A3 power amp so we can try those Pasvanes in....;)
i have a suspicion that these newer tubes are meant to be run differently from the vintage 2A3's old...
Do you have a spare pair lying around, Pare? :)
Di kaya may problema ang Psvane tubes? Maganda siguro ipatest ito at baka defective? Pwede naman check voltages sa plate and cathode ng psvane tube while the amp is running. What do you think Sir Tony? Or nacheck na, na-miss ko lang sa above post? Di pa ba tayo OT?Tama.. That was the issue of my friend before with PS Vane. :)
Lupit nito recording ng AN Classic 10 sa 2nd video. :) Video pa more.
https://youtu.be/_7dIt2hFxm4
Source is laptop playing spotify. Preamp is aikido loaned from Louie M.
Thanks for looking.
Di kaya may problema ang Psvane tubes? Maganda siguro ipatest ito at baka defective? Pwede naman check voltages sa plate and cathode ng psvane tube while the amp is running. What do you think Sir Tony? Or nacheck na, na-miss ko lang sa above post? Di pa ba tayo OT?
The shouty mid of AN fullrange can be solved by putting some acoutic foam/wool fiber on the front panel of speaker box INTERNAL surrounding fullrange drivers only. Shrek7 already experimented this and was satisfied with the result. I also experimented it with my AN and also satisfied, (just yesterday). BSC is very good with other fullrange drivers. But as per TNT Audio, it has negative effect on the 3D soundstage of AN fullrange drivers, the reason they didn't recommend the notch filter or BSC. Perhaps with other fullrange drivers, BSC will be very beneficial. :)
The passive eq was placed in between preamp and amp in this set-up. No apparent negative effect on the SQ, IME. For sure at speaker levels aside from effects on SQ there surely would be loss of power because of the additional passive components.Indeed. The BSC is different though same function as passive equalizer. However, the video is very good. Galing. :)
BSC is another name for tone control....make no mistake about it...Agree.
pre-emphasizes the lows and the highs while attenuating the mids somewhat...
and since this is a passive network, no distortion is introduced, only attenuation...
who's afraid of tone controls? if it does the job, then why not?
We listened to, again yesterday, to this onken speakers we made several years ago. Horn is a difficult to find Altec 311-90 driven by Altec 291 compression drivers and EV tweeters.
(http://i.imgur.com/wJ3W6AD.jpg?1)
Shown with the rest of the system.
(http://i.imgur.com/oCqRBVP.jpg)
We also tried this low power 4p1L parallel SET made by Sir Tony (pls. see below). Not surprisingly, this amp is sufficient enough to drive these speakers to loud levels.
(http://i.imgur.com/QhTsqFL.jpg) (http://imgur.com/QhTsqFL)
Love the sense of scale and effortlessness of this horn speakers.
Thanks for looking.
Nagulat siya Tony. Kasama si Lin kahapon. Talo ung 2A3 amp ng may-ari pero in fairness medyo mahina na yung RCA tubes nya. Mas balanced tunog ng 4P1L. May 2A3 character din siya. Dahil siguro sa directly heated din ang 4P1L.
Maganda ang Leben at 12 watts. Pero ang presyo!
Horn is a difficult to find Altec 311-90Difficult indeed. I have 1 pc of the 311-90 waiting for a partner. Been sometime for now but no luck..
would have to agree, these russian tubes are no push-overs and can be giant killers too... >:D
good to know, alam mo naman, i value Lin's critic very much, if he says it is good, then it is good...
please give my regards....btw, i have inquiry for a 300b amp build, so i will be needing your plinth,
same size as the one we used on the 2A3's, paki pm na lang ang price at availability...
Difficult indeed. I have 1 pc of the 311-90 waiting for a partner. Been sometime for now but no luck..
oo nga bro, makakahanap din ako nyan..i have those 311-60s too but i ended up selling them..
by the way i saw some ALTEC MR-902-16HF on one of the pics. your friend using them too?
Yes. We replaced the EV tweeters with the 902s. Mas gumanda pa.nice to hear about that. i got a pair from someone. naka fix na ata yung cut-off because of the pre installed capacitor inside.
nice to hear about that. i got a pair from someone. naka fix na ata yung cut-off because of the pre installed capacitor inside.
ok...whizzer na lang....
si Nemesio Seritan merong epoxy na gamit sa speakers....
sa Antipolo lang sya...https://www.facebook.com/nemesio.seriritan?fref=ts
oo nga master will coordinate with him para maka kuha ng epoxy. Thanks!Congratulations Remington!thanks sir!
Patanong naman . ano pong locally available wood glue ang pinaka mganda para sa pagdikit ng mdf ... for making sealed subs....Stikwell pwede na. Importante may black screws ka na ilalagay sa mdf. How do you plan to finish?
salamat
Ayoko ng Stikwel. Nakasupot. Messy dukutin. But it does work.Bakit mo dinudukot yung supot? (parang perv ang dating hehe!) You can use the same supot as dispenser by cutting a small hole on one corner.
I like Elmer's Wood Glue from National Bookstore. Comes in easy to bottles with self unclogging nozzles.
The fit and finish of the cnc 'ed cabinets are precise enough not to need screws based on the build threads but will decide when I see it.Without screws you will need a lot of clamps and plenty of time.
A collection of DIY horns by Lin Gomez from Dau, Pampanga. It's like being in a horn loudspeaker museum when you visit his place. :)that is one horny guy!
(http://i.imgur.com/GvY4Qfy.jpg)
Patanong naman . ano pong locally available wood glue ang pinaka mganda para sa pagdikit ng mdf ... for making sealed subs....
salamat
sir, sorry to threadjack, san makakabili ng l-pad?Deeco has them.
thanks
paeng
my diy 3-way crossover network...
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y155/leoman53/IMG_6405_zps01igvrgn.jpg) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/leoman53/media/IMG_6405_zps01igvrgn.jpg.html)
Wow. Specs naman master Tony. Cut-offs etc.
this is a 2nd order, cut-offs at around 300h, mids 300 to 3000hz, highs above 3000 hz estimated...
Testing time na yan kina Trod! Hehe!
Yes sir textured German leather :)
thanks sir! for sure sold na yun sa dami ng naka pila ang ganda e hehehe
tyak mabajo it...:D
(https://scontent.fmnl3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtp1/v/t1.0-9/13012893_10205295747507894_6855345431490614659_n.jpg?oh=0a90ed9331f314b9f7140b4d77f65695&oe=57B5EEE5)
tyak mabajo it...:DHindi naman, may built-in P-trap ito sir Tony ;D
(https://scontent.fmnl3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtp1/v/t1.0-9/13012893_10205295747507894_6855345431490614659_n.jpg?oh=0a90ed9331f314b9f7140b4d77f65695&oe=57B5EEE5)
Guys,
Where can I source the following cotton/wool felt? It the blue foam lining in the photo.
(http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachments/full-range/543096d1460409068-full-range-speaker-photo-gallery-imgp5332.jpg)
Guys,
Where can I source the following cotton/wool felt? It the blue foam lining in the photo.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1712/26591137466_ef7135c021_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GvLwKm) (https://flic.kr/p/GvLwKm) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/15913120@N07/)
Photo fixed.....
@JoeyGS, meron shell canvass sa pasay, near Gi; Puyat mrt....
Thanks Tony for the referral.
Tamang tama I work in Makati and makes it accessible.
Latest project, planning to repaint, powder coated or flat black
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a201/ronaldcorrales/Mobile%20Uploads/9F249AF8-DE7B-4BCB-9FC6-9EBFE23C1726_zps1bpizeye.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/ronaldcorrales/media/Mobile%20Uploads/9F249AF8-DE7B-4BCB-9FC6-9EBFE23C1726_zps1bpizeye.jpg.html)
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Help needed, looking for 1 inch Plywood, info naman mga sir kung sino supplier.
Thanks
uy, vintage talaga ang dating.....;)
i like that baffle, i have a pair of Hukotone vintage 12 inchers...
Latest project, planning to repaint, powder coated or flat black
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a201/ronaldcorrales/Mobile%20Uploads/9F249AF8-DE7B-4BCB-9FC6-9EBFE23C1726_zps1bpizeye.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/ronaldcorrales/media/Mobile%20Uploads/9F249AF8-DE7B-4BCB-9FC6-9EBFE23C1726_zps1bpizeye.jpg.html)
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ayan na inilabas na mga nahukay, mukang approaching na sa game over speaker hehehe. Bilisan mo gawin yan para ma audition agad. Wag mo kalimutan mga request ko kahit DORIAN L-101 hehehe.
This is the best comment I could find. Thread is here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/51746-mdf-v-plywood-construction.html
"When the first mode of an enclosure panel resonance is outside the passband of the drivers in that enclosure, you don't need damping... only stiffness. This is the case with sub enclosures, where panels (should) resonate well above the operating range of the drivers and the goal should be to increase stiffness by any and all means necessary to minimize the amplitude of forced excitation vibrations. Here both MDF and ply can be used, with the first resulting in a heavier enclosure for the same performance. The final cost will likely be fairly similar between the two, with ply perhaps having a slightly smaller finished enclosure for a bit higher cost.
When the first mode of an enclosure panel resonance is within the passband of the drivers in that enclosure, you need both damping and stiffness. This is the case with full-range (or satellite) enclosures, where panels almost unavoidably resonate somewhere within the operating range of one of the drivers. Here the goal should be to increase stiffness as much as possible to minimize the amplitude of forced excitation vibrations, and to maximize damping so that the amplitude at resonance is kept in check as well. This can be accomplished with either MDF or plywood, with the first requiring more bracing or thicker walls for the same result, and the latter requiring more applied damping material liners for the same result. Relatively speaking, since MDF is usually cheaper than both good plywood and good damping materials, and since bracing techniques contribute way more to the overall panel stiffness than either panel thickness or material modulus, it would seem obvious that MDF is the more economic choice. And, with any experience with proven engineering methods, an equally or better performing choice as well.
Since forced excitations are relatively low in amplitude compared to sub enclosures, one should focus most of his efforts on proper damping. Hence, use MDF as a good starting point and spend the extra money (saved vs. ply) on additional damping.
Don't forget that stuffing is also important when the enclosure dimensions become large wrt the lowest wavelength in the passband of the drivers used (i.e., when the enclosure is 1/4 wavelength or larger, as a rule of thumb). This leads to the conclusion that subs don't require stuffing for backwave damping (but might otherwise benefit from the apparent increase in enclosure volume when a lot is used), but fullrange enclosures do require stuffing to dampen internal standing wave resonances.
In my observations, you'll find that the people who think plywood sounds better for fullrange enclosures are the same people who think some resistors sound better, some cables have a preferred direction, some volume knobs (the knobs, not the pots) sound better, etc. Take that for what you will... perhaps they are self deluded about practically everything "golden ear" related, or perhaps they are the ones who really do have good ears and can give the most consistent advice. Depending on which side of the greater subjectivist/objectivist argument you fall, you will either take their endorsement of plywood as an endorsement, or a warning."
Yes Sir Jun, Promise ko kay Hepe yan, wala ng kasunod na project. mabuti na lang nasanay ako sa mga past track project natin dati. Kaya lahat ng project ko puro mabilisan. Tingin ka palagi dun sa forum nila then pag meron ka nakita at decided ka na, reserve agad natin. mabilis bentaha dun, maraming piranha.
@ Sir Jun meron available - JBL S 101
http://vnav.vn/forum/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5946&p=2413123&hilit=Jbl+101#p2413123
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500hz 2nd Order Butterworth - By Transformer & Coil Master - Pareng Edrel Sison
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a201/ronaldcorrales/Mobile%20Uploads/1A1B8A09-8395-4C80-8C8A-A58F5F166D13_zpsydcwu4bu.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/ronaldcorrales/media/Mobile%20Uploads/1A1B8A09-8395-4C80-8C8A-A58F5F166D13_zpsydcwu4bu.jpg.html)
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ronald, aalis ka na agad di ko pa naririnig ;D ;D ;D ;D, ako paparating pa lang ;), congrats!!! bro. 8)
#parasound, have a safe trip, kailan ang balik mp dito? thanks for the heads up...
Guys, buhayan ko lang thread na 'to..Im good and okay with DIY however sa move na gagawin niyo, hindi kaya mascheaper if you buy a new pair of speakers? Parang enclosure na lang ang tinira niyo. Hehe!
A friend of mine just left to work abroad, he sold me his Crown floorstanders at Php 800 para lang mai-dispose ung unit (since kaibigan, I obliged to accept his sell offer).
I already have floorstanders for my HT, but I planned to use this crown fs for a bedroom set up (purely music). As expected the drivers & tweeters were cheap and the sound is not good for my taste. But the floorstanders itself did looked good & SQ could be improved
I planned to replace drivers, tweeters, wires & x'overs, purchase at partsexpress HiVi Svans woofers & Dayton Audio air motion tweeters of the same size as of the current drivers.
Question:
Any other suggestions? may other route ba nito that would improve SQ? & drivers that are locally available?
Medyo matagal pa kasi if sa partsexpress pa bibilhin ung drivers/tweeters
Just go ahead sir, maganda rin yan naisip mo. As per experience kasi pinakamatagal gawin yang enclosure plus mahirap mag source ng material especially MDF, wala sa tabi tabi construction supply yan. DIY is sariling diskarte kaya nga "yourself" dulo eh sa bandang huli ikaw din magsisi. Patience is the key lang, wag mainip sa mga materyales at pag buo ng project.
Btw Crown BF-646 ung model, my friend told me he bought it at around P5000 mid last year. I removed 1 driver and the mdf thickness is around 1/2", I think this is sturdy enough for 2 swans HiVi drivers. I don't need to drive the speakers at very high SPL since it will be used on a medium-sized bedroom.
Already added to my cart (partsexpress) 4 HiVi drivers & 2 tweeters. My boss will be going to the US next week, I'll ask him 1st if he could carry these for me. Medyo marami issues sa work kaya hindi ko muna cya kinausap baka tanggihan hehehe. Bukas baka maganda mood, tsaka ko na kausapin.
Anyway, plan B is to ship via LBC my shopping cart.
depends on how much your power amp is capable,
if powerful enough and if your power amp is rated for 4 ohms, then parallel,
if you power amp is not rated for 4 ohms, then series..
ilan ohms?
you can use a 1.5 volt dry cell to check phase, either both na papasok ang cone or parehong palabas, kung mabaligtad mo hihina ang bass..