PinoyDVD: The Pinoy Digital Video & Devices Community
Home Theater => Audio => Speakers => Topic started by: darkangel69 on Aug 07, 2014 at 04:38 PM
-
Help po sa mga pdvd members natin diyan, just want to have your suggesstions on enclosure design that would work with Fostex FE127.
TIA.
-
Same dilemma as yours. I have the fostex 120A and also unsure on what box to use.
Fostex 120A http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-5-fullrange/fostex-f120a-5-full-range-with-alnico-magnet/
I am inclined towards the Pencil Cut FA box but would like to hear the comments of existing users.
http://diyaudioprojects.com/Speakers/Fostex-FX120-ML-TQWT/
Sorry for the Hi-jack of the thread.
Anyway I read the recommended box for the FE127 is the sealed bi-pole.
http://diyaudioprojects.com/Drivers/FE127E/FE127E.htm
-
Same dilemma as yours. I have the fostex 120A and also unsure on what box to use.
Fostex 120A http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-5-fullrange/fostex-f120a-5-full-range-with-alnico-magnet/
I am inclined towards the Pencil Cut FA box but would like to hear the comments of existing users.
http://diyaudioprojects.com/Speakers/Fostex-FX120-ML-TQWT/
Sorry for the Hi-jack of the thread.
Anyway I read the recommended box for the FE127 is the sealed bi-pole.
http://diyaudioprojects.com/Drivers/FE127E/FE127E.htm
No need to apologize sir CoolTOYZ, I hope diy speaker masters here will give us some reccomendations on what enclosure should we need. Anyways I'm not in a hurry naman since I have other projects as well awaiting my time...
-
I'm thinking if I would use the mid/bass drivers of the Pioneer S-99t since I don't use them anymore (got another floorstander w/c sounds great to my ears).
-
I made 5 liter ported boxes tuned to 100hz. This was Bob Brines' suggestion. In his words the factory recommended 10liter boxes are a joke. They sound too bright. I use a 10" sub with it. Fantastic SQ with a mini tube amp for my desktop.
If you will not use a sub, I recommend the Frugel Mk2 boxes. These are small back horn floorstanders. Since the sound will work with the floor and back wall, speaker placement is important.
You can see my bookshelf build in the Speaker: Speaker DIY'ers thread.
-
I made 5 liter ported boxes tuned to 100hz. This was Bob Brines' suggestion. In his words the factory recommended 10liter boxes are a joke. They sound too bright. I use a 10" sub with it. Fantastic SQ with a mini tube amp for my desktop.
If you will not use a sub, I recommend the Frugel Mk2 boxes. These are small back horn floorstanders. Since the sound will work with the floor and back wall, speaker placement is important.
You can see my bookshelf build in the Speaker: Speaker DIY'ers thread.
Will check your build sir, thanks for the insight and help, highly appreciate it... ;D
-
Here are my boxes: http://www.pinoydvd.com/index.php/topic,22682.960.html
-
By the way would an MTM have great results with the Fostex FE127 along with 8" mid/bass?
-
Nice build! Are these speakers your designs sir? Do you have measurements? I think this would be fine with the Fostex FE127 that I have.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/P7110179_zps484551df.jpg)
-
Gino, if you do not mind, why did you decide on a BS instead of FS since your room is big enough?
-
I don't recommend that. Integrating the sound will be more trouble than it is worth. You will have to deal with crossovers. Very good ones will be very expensive.
You will also have to consider the speaker sensitivity. The 8"er must have a sensitivity of 93db too to match the FE127.
Sensitivity is also affected by the box design. To build a floorstander with the 127 and the 8 inch, you are in principle building two boxes on to of each other.
My reco is a pair of bookshelf speakers plus a sub or a standalone floorstander. Frugel, pensil, bass reflex.
-
@darkangel, I designed that and cleared with Bob Brines. The final dimensions will depend on the thickness of your board. I used 15mm sheets and 50mm inside diameter x 75mm length ports. Internal box volume is 5 liters. Box external dimensions using 15mm sheets is 154mm width x 256mm height x 213mm depth. adjust accordingly for you wood thickness.
@Cooltoyz, I went with bookshelfs plus sub because I was building a desktop system for my Mac. The Frugel Mk2 are really short floorstanders. That is why those are angled upwards. They must also be placed correctly since they load the floor and wall. You cannot put these on stands or they will not sound right.
-
I don't recommend that. Integrating the sound will be more trouble than it is worth. You will have to deal with crossovers. Very good ones will be very expensive.
You will also have to consider the speaker sensitivity. The 8"er must have a sensitivity of 93db too to match the FE127.
Sensitivity is also affected by the box design. To build a floorstander with the 127 and the 8 inch, you are in principle building two boxes on to of each other.
My reco is a pair of bookshelf speakers plus a sub or a standalone floorstander. Frugel, pensil, bass reflex.
The reason why I'm asking if the 8" will work with an MTM is because the Pioneer S-99t take up too much space on my living room and I'm not using them anymore.
-
Don't use them. Your life will be simpler. Sell them and get an 8" or 10" active subwoofer with speaker level inputs.
-
@darkangel, I designed that and cleared with Bob Brines. The final dimensions will depend on the thickness of your board. I used 15mm sheets and 50mm inside diameter x 75mm length ports. Internal box volume is 5 liters. Box external dimensions using 15mm sheets is 154mm width x 254mm height x 210mm depth. adjust accordingly for you wood thickness.
@Cooltoyz, I went with bookshelfs because I was building a desktop system for my Mac. The Frugel Mk2 are really short floorstanders. That is why those are angled upwards. I also find bookshelf plus sub combo much more flexible. If these were for my home audio room, I would have built Frugels.
Will ask my local furniture shop if they can build me a box for the Fostex drivers that I have. I have a dining table made of solid wood (cherry), puwede kaya gamitin yun?
-
Don't use them. Your life will be simpler. Sell them and get an 8" or 10" active subwoofer with speaker level inputs.
Sir Gino kahit nga bargain na no takers pa rin dun sa Pioneer FS ko, yun din problema ko... ;D
-
Fostex 120A http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-5-fullrange/fostex-f120a-5-full-range-with-alnico-magnet/
@CoolTOYZ Nice Fostex FR you got there sir, ;D
-
Yun nga eh, walang gusto bumili. So why do you want to have an undesirable speaker in your system? Ditch them and build proper speakers.
-
This discussion is going nowhere. Balitaan mo na lang kami.
-
This discussion is going nowhere. Balitaan mo na lang kami.
Sorry sa OT sir Gino, salamat po sa mga insights.
-
@Cooltoyz, ang ganda ng mltl box sa link mo. Very nice speakers you have there.
-
Sir Gino, do you recommend the box design?
@Cooltoyz, ang ganda ng mltl box sa link mo. Very nice speakers you have there.
-
I've not heard that particular speakers but I've heard TL boxes before. They pack a wallop in the bass department. Even for small drivers (3"-6"), the amount of bass is surprising. Of course it will depend on room dimension and speaker placement. Smaller wide band drivers tend to have a smoother mid to highs curve.
If you have the time, you can mockup ML boxes using corrugated cardboard and duct tape. This way you can have an idea of its sound.
-
Naku Sir that is the biggest problem... time! :-\
If you have the time, you can mockup ML boxes using corrugated cardboard and duct tape. This way you can have an idea of its sound.
-
Anthony is your man. He built the first TLs for Wiredstate 10 years ago. Gaganda pa ng wood veneer niya.
-
Naku Sir that is the biggest problem... time! :-\
Problema nga yan sir, pero paunti unti naman siguro puwede matapos project na gustong mabuo.
@Gino Sir sana naman huwag mag-conclude kaagad about the issue of building a "case", humihingi ako ng mga payo ng mga masters natin dito sa PDVD at hindi para magmukha pa na ako ang magaling. Sabihan mo lang ako ng maayos at sa tamang paraan para mas lalo kong maintindihan. Ako ay isa lamang mangmang kumpara sa inyo sa larangan ng paggawa, ayoko ng argumento gusto ko happy tayo lahat dito.
-
OK. Sige.
-
OK. Sige.
Salamat po sa pag-intindi... ;D
Mabalik tayo sa enclosure design, meron bang kaso kung mabigat na kahoy ang gagamitin kagaya ng cherry? Ang plano ko ay gayahin ang design mo sir Gino, tama lang ang sukat para sa desktop PC na gamit ko sa room.
-
Maganda ang Cherry. Gaano kakapal iyan? Mas makapal, masmalaki ang final speaker dimensions. Akin 15mm ang wood sheet.
Oh ang box ko tuned sa 100hz. This means by itself, mahina ang overall bass. Walang gapang. Kailangan ng sub. Pero malutong ang midbass. Enough na hindi tunog lata. Ok ang mga vocal and guitars. Kung compared sa usual pc speakers, these are better sounding. Swak sa T-amp. Malakas ang volume niya even with as little as 3.5watts.
-
25mm po ang kapal, if ever ba kung heavy and sturdy na frame kailangan pa ba ng bracing sa loob? Ok lang nman yung tuning to 100hz since mga papakinggan ko lang using the planned speaker ay mostly for vocals and instruments heavy songs. Yung isang DIY FS ko ay enough na LF nun para sa mga ibang genre na pinapakinggan ko. Ang amp ko na ipaparis ay yung Sony TA-1055a, 20watts lang po ito at warm sounding sa iba kong speaker.
Paano pala yung pag-tune sa isang desired frequency? Kailangan ba may crossover pa or capacitor at resistor lang puwede na? Or yung size ng internal box ang magdidikta dito?
-
Pasensiya ka na sir Gino kung madami akong tanong, sobrang dami na kasi ng page ng Speaker DIY'ers thread kaya di na ako makasingit dun, hehehe
-
Box design na ang tuning. Yung 5 liter internal vol box ko with 50mm x 75mm port is tuned to 100Hz. But that is for the FE126EN. I'll have to confer with Mr. Brines re the FE127E.
-
Box design na ang tuning. Yung 5 liter internal vol box ko with 50mm x 75mm port is tuned to 100Hz. But that is for the FE126EN. I'll have to confer with Mr. Brines re the FE127E.
Sige po sir Gino, baka kasi puwede na yung dimensions na naibigay mo with a few adjusments depending on the thickness of the materials to be used on the enclosure.
-
I am sure around that size pwede. Shot him an email.
-
I am sure around that size pwede. Shot him an email.
Do you have his email then? TIA.
-
Looks like the factory recommended box for the FE127E is similar to my FE126EN reco box. 10L tuned to 70hz. This to me suggests my box specs will work with the FE127E. 5Liters with 50mm x 75mm port. This is tuned to 100hz.
https://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?depth=1&hl=en&ie=UTF8&prev=_t&rurl=translate.google.com&sl=fr&tl=en&u=http://mesbricolages.over-blog.com/categorie-916015.html&usg=ALkJrhg_smGZL-9NEJ99VRRYI2DPsx7uIg
-
Based on what I've read at diyaudio, I wouldn't recommend using solid wood (especially 25mm thick). It has to do with the resonance of the box in reaction to the mated drivers. Depending on the design of the enclosure. sometimes it is even intentional to have thin baffles such as some Harbeth enclosures and Zigmahornet enclosures, in which the design lets the box itself resonate well with the drivers.
I recommend high quality 15-18mm plywood for your encloure. If you really want solid wood included in your enclosure, you could accent your speakers with side wood panels na lang, like some Sonus Faber enclosures.
-
Looks like the factory recommended box for the FE127E is similar to my FE126EN reco box. 10L tuned to 70hz. This to me suggests my box specs will work with the FE127E. 5Liters with 50mm x 75mm port. This is tuned to 100hz.
https://translate.googleusercontent.com/translate_c?depth=1&hl=en&ie=UTF8&prev=_t&rurl=translate.google.com&sl=fr&tl=en&u=http://mesbricolages.over-blog.com/categorie-916015.html&usg=ALkJrhg_smGZL-9NEJ99VRRYI2DPsx7uIg
Ayos, ;D...
Medyo may nabubuo na po akong idea based sa link po ninyo.
Based on what I've read at diyaudio, I wouldn't recommend using solid wood (especially 25mm thick). It has to do with the resonance of the box in reaction to the mated drivers. Depending on the design of the enclosure. sometimes it is even intentional to have thin baffles such as some Harbeth enclosures and Zigmahornet enclosures, in which the design lets the box itself resonate well with the drivers.
I recommend high quality 15-18mm plywood for your encloure. If you really want solid wood included in your enclosure, you could accent your speakers with side wood panels na lang, like some Sonus Faber enclosures.
I was thinking if solid wood ang gagamitin the box would be sturdy and would not need internal bracing. If that's the case hanap na lang ako ng high quality plywood, itatabi ko muna yung solid wood ko for other speaker projects.
-
Solid wood,plywood, as well as other materials have resonance. It is next to impossible to eliminate it. That is where bracing comes in, controlling the panels and pushing the resonance where it is less likely to add colouration. With that said, bracing is the key ;)
-
Solid wood,plywood, as well as other materials have resonance. It is next to impossible to eliminate it. That is where bracing comes in, controlling the panels and pushing the resonance where it is less likely to add colouration. With that said, bracing is the key ;)
That means if we have a box with decent bracing then the resonance will somehow lessen if not totally eliminate it.
-
Dami po ninyo mga ideas mga master, keep them coming... ;D
-
Bob Brines said you need a 12 liter box with a 50mmx100mm port. If you have a deep desk, then you can make a reasonably small front face and extend the box to the back . This way you fool the eyes into seeing small bookshelf speakers.
-
you may also try this 14L ZWBR.
i made one for my MA CHR-70a.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TnaxPAByNfY (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TnaxPAByNfY)
http://blog.livedoor.jp/qcreate/archives/51891539.html (http://blog.livedoor.jp/qcreate/archives/51891539.html)