Post by: karipas on Mar 24, 2017 at 11:47 AM
I auditioned my new pre-amp from a guy who used to work at Sonic Frontiers, we ran the pre-amp to his 1.5 wpc ... yes a 1.5wpc ... tube amp with a tubes similar below...the amp sounds amazing, loud enough without a hint of sweat driving an 88db speakers (TAD TSM-300). I was in a rush and was not able to ask more questions and take pictures of his collections and setup.
The amp he said are single ended...and I remember him saying that it is the first watt that matters ( I understand what he meant but it was still ambiguous). :
So during the audition his preamp followed me home.
Any Anthem tube preamp owners here, I was wondering what other tube brands do you use, what does mullard brings in the table?
My tubes (6922) in the preamp were upgraded to electro-harmonix.
Thanks for your inputs.
(http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u141/jojo0416/Anthem%20Pre%201/243.jpg)
Post by: audiojunkie on Mar 24, 2017 at 12:16 PM
I own Anthem pre 1 with Siemens e188cc gold pins in preamp section connected to golden tube audio se40 amp and anthem cd1 (from efren).
Post by: karipas on Mar 25, 2017 at 05:27 AM
I own Anthem pre 1 with Siemens e188cc gold pins in preamp section connected to golden tube audio se40 amp and anthem cd1 (from efren).
Thanks Audiojunkie, how do you like the Siemens and have you done tube rolling on the pre, if you can share your experiences on different tubes you tried will be wonderful. I might want try other tubes as well. Nice amp and player you have there sir.
Mine currently is bi-amped
1st output to my Sonic Frontiers SFS 80 and the 2nd one to my Onkyo M504
Here is mine with the electro-harmonix.
(http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u141/jojo0416/Anthem%20Pre%201/th_D71_0816a.jpg) (http://s167.photobucket.com/user/jojo0416/media/Anthem%20Pre%201/D71_0816a.jpg.html)
Post by: audiojunkie on Mar 25, 2017 at 01:23 PM
Thanks Audiojunkie, how do you like the Siemens and have you done tube rolling on the pre, if you can share your experiences on different tubes you tried will be wonderful. I might want try other tubes as well. Nice amp and player you have there sir.
Mine currently is bi-amped
1st output to my Sonic Frontiers SFS 80 and the 2nd one to my Onkyo M504
Here is mine with the electro-harmonix.
(http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u141/jojo0416/Anthem%20Pre%201/th_D71_0816a.jpg) (http://s167.photobucket.com/user/jojo0416/media/Anthem%20Pre%201/D71_0816a.jpg.html)
I like Siemens SQ, smooth and extended high... At phono section Mullard CV4024 these are the tubes came when I purchased the unit. Now, I already replaced cv4024 with another Siemens EC881 and amperex ECC88/6DJ8 at output section. Replaced Sovtek 5AR4 rectifier tube with mullard. Another add-on, installed Audiocap theta bypass cap to the main signal caps.. (No plan yet to recap). Just spent good amount in my tube amp upgrade...
Post by: karipas on Mar 25, 2017 at 10:55 PM
Post by: audiojunkie on Mar 26, 2017 at 01:30 AM
Awesome! I've noted the tubes and will get those soon. Thanks for the input ;)
One tube at output section developed noise that's the reason I replaced the pair with amperex. Replaced CD1 sovtek 6922 tube with the extra seimens pulled from pre1...
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/ram_on/2017/image_zpsrvdz1iqq.jpg)
Big difference in SQ to original tube Sovtek 6922.
Complimenting Gears...
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/ram_on/2017/image_zpshmzw68vh.jpg)
Anthem CD1 + Anthem PRE1 + GTA SE40 SET Class A
Tube Comparison...
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/ram_on/2017/image_zps0m2snjmv.jpg)
Will post Pre1 innards pics later...
Post by: audiojunkie on Mar 27, 2017 at 03:33 AM
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/ram_on/Anthem/image_zpsy6kx92b8.jpg)
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/ram_on/Anthem/image_zpshzgvr1fn.jpg)
Tube Rectifier.. (GE by Mullard / Sovtek)
Post by: karipas on Mar 27, 2017 at 11:38 AM
Power Supply (separate box)
Tube Rectifier.. (GE by Mullard / Sovtek)
Very nice, thank you for sharing.
The tech from Sonic Frontiers said my tube rectifiers has still plenty of miles in it, he has never used the amp for at least 10 years so I will not touch it per his recommendation. He still works with the founder Chris Johnson at Parts Connexion, he guaranteed that we can work something out with the tube requirements of the pre-amp.
Here's mine on my pine diy rack (planning to make another that hold 6 gears this summer).
I am still trying to figure out which of my speakers go best with the sfs 80. So far the bright nature of the HPMs looks very promising with all tube setup.
Sorry for the mess in my listening space, it's so cumbersome to rotate these heavy speakers ;D
(http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u141/jojo0416/Anthem%20Pre%201/D71_0923%202.jpg) (http://s167.photobucket.com/user/jojo0416/media/Anthem%20Pre%201/D71_0923%202.jpg.html)
(http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u141/jojo0416/Anthem%20Pre%201/D71_0921%202.jpg) (http://s167.photobucket.com/user/jojo0416/media/Anthem%20Pre%201/D71_0921%202.jpg.html)
Post by: tony on Mar 27, 2017 at 12:30 PM
Quote
http://Tube Rectifier.. (GE by Mullard / Sovtek)
the tube business is indeed a funny business,
GE buys tubes from RCA with the GE logo and vice versa...
Mullard ask Toshiba to make tubes for them, etc, etc,
having a tube that works well is good enough,
remember that cathodes of tubes gets depleted in use,
so that when transconductance is almost gone, you will see a lot of manifestations.....
so i look at tubes, not by who made them, but how much life is inside of them...
Post by: karipas on Mar 28, 2017 at 12:53 AM
Big difference in SQ to original tube Sovtek 6922.
I was told that the cheaper Sovtec was the weakest in the link, I guess it make sense to upgrade to a tube type that delivers SQ to someones liking. I guess it is tantamount to choosing Nichicons or caps with lower esr rating when re-capping.
Post by: karipas on Mar 28, 2017 at 12:54 AM
the tube business is indeed a funny business,
GE buys tubes from RCA with the GE logo and vice versa...
Mullard ask Toshiba to make tubes for them, etc, etc,
having a tube that works well is good enough,
remember that cathodes of tubes gets depleted in use,
so that when transconductance is almost gone, you will see a lot of manifestations.....
so i look at tubes, not by who made them, but how much life is inside of them...
Makes a lot of sense Sir Tony.
Post by: audiojunkie on Mar 28, 2017 at 01:18 AM
Very nice, thank you for sharing.
The tech from Sonic Frontiers said my tube rectifiers has still plenty of miles in it, he has never used the amp for at least 10 years so I will not touch it per his recommendation. He still works with the founder Chris Johnson at Parts Connexion, he guaranteed that we can work something out with the tube requirements of the pre-amp.
Here's mine on my pine diy rack (planning to make another that hold 6 gears this summer).
I am still trying to figure out which of my speakers go best with the sfs 80. So far the bright nature of the HPMs looks very promising with all tube setup.
Sorry for the mess in my listening space, it's so cumbersome to rotate these heavy speakers ;D
(http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u141/jojo0416/Anthem%20Pre%201/D71_0923%202.jpg) (http://s167.photobucket.com/user/jojo0416/media/Anthem%20Pre%201/D71_0923%202.jpg.html)
(http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u141/jojo0416/Anthem%20Pre%201/D71_0921%202.jpg) (http://s167.photobucket.com/user/jojo0416/media/Anthem%20Pre%201/D71_0921%202.jpg.html)
Nice gears you got there sir karipas....
Post by: audiojunkie on Mar 28, 2017 at 01:34 AM
the tube business is indeed a funny business,
GE buys tubes from RCA with the GE logo and vice versa...
Mullard ask Toshiba to make tubes for them, etc, etc,
having a tube that works well is good enough,
remember that cathodes of tubes gets depleted in use,
so that when transconductance is almost gone, you will see a lot of manifestations.....
so i look at tubes, not by who made them, but how much life is inside of them...
Thanks sir Tony sa info at insight ....
Post by: audiojunkie on Mar 28, 2017 at 04:43 AM
[(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/ram_on/Anthem/image_zpslzdikzc0.jpg)
Unmolested
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/ram_on/Anthem/image_zpso77lybi9.jpg)
After...
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/ram_on/Anthem/image_zpsl6wg97rq.jpg)
Closer look ... :)
Post by: karipas on Mar 28, 2017 at 05:16 AM
Nice gears you got there sir karipas....
Thanks Sir for the help and sharing tube experiences in the pre1.
Post by: audiojunkie on Apr 17, 2017 at 03:53 AM
Thanks Sir for the help and sharing tube experiences in the pre1.
You're welcome bro... Thanks din for starting this thread.
Tanong ko lang sir at what voltage your preamp operating? Mine is set at 120 volts, May option for voltage conversion pero gusto maka seguro ng jumper connection bago gawin.
Or Anyone here can help or guide in the procedure? I can post detail pics if needed... Thx.
Post by: karipas on Apr 18, 2017 at 04:22 AM
You're welcome bro... Thanks din for starting this thread.
Tanong ko lang sir at what voltage your preamp operating? Mine is set at 120 volts, May option for voltage conversion pero gusto maka seguro ng jumper connection bago gawin.
Or Anyone here can help or guide in the procedure? I can post detail pics if needed... Thx.
Hi Sir, 120V kami dito hence mine is operating at 120V. So just to clarify, want yours converted to 240V ba? If so, I can check with the guy whom I purchased my unit from. Let me know.
Post by: audiojunkie on Apr 18, 2017 at 04:55 AM
Hi Sir, 120V kami dito hence mine is operating at 120V. So just to clarify, want yours converted to 240V ba? If so, I can check with the guy whom I purchased my unit from. Let me know.
Yes, if I can get clear guide. Although I'm using AVR with 110-120v converter it's also safe to set at local voltage. The CD1 I'm using is already wired at 220-230v.
Post by: karipas on Apr 19, 2017 at 06:19 AM
Edit:
I opened my power supply and I might know the answer but I am only 95% sure - desolder and move one end of the jumper in the thin line to the solid thick line (diagonally refer to the blue arrow). I am hoping the more knowledgeable techs here can chime in or you can open the bottom side of your unit to follow the trace. I also recommend to keep the jumper original I believe they also serves as a fuse. I hope this makes sense and helps.
I will text the sonic tech tomorrow to get the confirmation.
(http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u141/jojo0416/Anthem%20Pre%201/IMG_0221_LI.jpg) (http://s167.photobucket.com/user/jojo0416/media/Anthem%20Pre%201/IMG_0221_LI.jpg.html)
Post by: audiojunkie on Apr 19, 2017 at 11:46 AM
Thanks bro sa effort and info... I will check mine to see if the same. I will ask my tech friend to do the convert once the diagram confirmed.
Post by: karipas on Apr 20, 2017 at 12:51 PM
Thanks bro sa effort and info... I will check mine to see if the same. I will ask my tech friend to do the convert once the diagram confirmed.
No problem, I am still waiting for the response. Let me know how it turns out.
Post by: audiojunkie on Apr 21, 2017 at 01:17 AM
No problem, I am still waiting for the response. Let me know how it turns out.
Same power connection bro... Looks simple procedure but it's better to be sure than be sorry.
Post by: karipas on May 02, 2017 at 12:41 AM
Same power connection bro... Looks simple procedure but it's better to be sure than be sorry.
Hi, I got the response below:
Hi Jojo,
Yes, he can convert the voltage from 120V to 240V :
-remove 2 existing jumpers from 120V location -re-install only 1 jumper back to the 240V location -change the fuse with half rating (e.g. 1A change to 0.5A, I can't remember the proper value)
Regard,
Vincent
Note that he mentioned 2 jumpers, but we only saw one. It could be under the PCB then, BUT at least we know that it can be safely converted.
Post by: audiojunkie on May 02, 2017 at 01:51 AM
Hi, I got the response below:
Hi Jojo,
Yes, he can convert the voltage from 120V to 240V :
-remove 2 existing jumpers from 120V location -re-install only 1 jumper back to the 240V location -change the fuse with half rating (e.g. 1A change to 0.5A, I can't remember the proper value)
Regard,
Vincent
Note that he mentioned 2 jumpers, but we only saw one. It could be under the PCB then, BUT at least we know that it can be safely converted.
Thanks bro sa info. I will forward this to my friend and will check the reverse side of PCB. The unit still at stock state.
Checked back the pic, possible the jumper at right side he's referring to? Only one jumper connection aligned to thick line and that jumper not connected. Maybe we can verify this with him if possible. Thnx
Post by: karipas on May 02, 2017 at 01:11 PM
Thanks bro sa info. I will forward this to my friend and will check the reverse side of PCB. The unit still at stock state.
Checked back the pic, possible the jumper at right side he's referring to? Only one jumper connection aligned to thick line and that jumper not connected. Maybe we can verify this with him if possible. Thnx
I think you are right 100% right, kasi those 2 jumpers will create a short if the other one is not removed. :D
Post by: audiojunkie on May 03, 2017 at 01:15 AM
I think you are right 100% right, kasi those 2 jumpers will create a short if the other one is not removed. :D
It could be right bro... But it's better to be another 100% sure... 😊
Post by: audiojunkie on May 03, 2017 at 01:21 AM
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/ram_on/Anthem/image_zpspwoxy0yd.jpg)
Post by: karipas on May 03, 2017 at 03:51 AM
Post by: karipas on May 04, 2017 at 12:30 AM
Must be our lucky day. He responded to my email, refer to our conversation below and he confirmed the process outlined in the picture above.
While I will personally do it myself but I will still have your tech look into it for a second opinion.
Good luck!
*****
Hi Jojo,
Yes, that is what he needs to do.
Regards,
Vincent
Hi Vincent,
Sorry for the trouble,
Just one last question.
We noted that you mentioned 2 jumpers, so as just to be sure please confirm he will have to do the following:
1) De-solder the 2 jumpers (pointed by the 2 orange arrows in the picture)
2) And solder 1 jumper along the thick line (pink arrow) in the picture.
He just wanted to make sure because according to him his CD1 jumper setting is different than the pre1.
Thanks in advance
Vincent.
*****
Post by: audiojunkie on May 04, 2017 at 02:28 AM
So I sent him a quick note, let's just hope he accommodates us and get a quick reply soon. High skilled techs here are expensive and they charges by the hour. :D
Yes bro... Agree with that... Quality of workmanship and safety of our gears worth the cost.
Post by: audiojunkie on May 04, 2017 at 02:34 AM
(http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u141/jojo0416/Anthem%20Pre%201/Anthem%20Pre1%20voltage%20conversion%20v2.jpg) (http://s167.photobucket.com/user/jojo0416/media/Anthem%20Pre%201/Anthem%20Pre1%20voltage%20conversion%20v2.jpg.html)
Must be our lucky day. He responded to my email, refer to our conversation below and he confirmed the process outlined in the picture above.
While I will personally do it myself but I will still have your tech look into it for a second opinion.
Good luck!
*****
Hi Jojo,
Yes, that is what he needs to do.
Regards,
Vincent
Hi Vincent,
Sorry for the trouble,
Just one last question.
We noted that you mentioned 2 jumpers, so as just to be sure please confirm he will have to do the following:
1) De-solder the 2 jumpers (pointed by the 2 orange arrows in the picture)
2) And solder 1 jumper along the thick line (pink arrow) in the picture.
He just wanted to make sure because according to him his CD1 jumper setting is different than the pre1.
Thanks in advance
Vincent.
*****
Thanks bro for extra effort to get the confirmation and extend also to your tech friend.
Will post an update once we've done the convert... 👍👍👍
Post by: karipas on May 04, 2017 at 12:21 PM
Yes bro... Agree with that... Quality of workmanship and safety of our gears worth the cost.
I hope everything works well on the voltage conversion. Let me know.
Post by: audiojunkie on May 05, 2017 at 01:55 PM
I hope everything works well on the voltage conversion. Let me know.
I hope and think it's now clear with detailed guide.
Post by: audiojunkie on May 05, 2017 at 06:16 PM
Noble is the original pot and from my reading TKD is the step up replacement and much better than ALPS. For selector Parts Connexion has original part available.
Any comments are welcome to the brand I mentioned...
Below are the parts I'm considering:
http://www.partsconnexion.com/78012.html (http://www.partsconnexion.com/78012.html)
http://www.partsconnexion.com/tkd_73338.html (http://www.partsconnexion.com/tkd_73338.html)
* added parts links...
Post by: karipas on Jun 03, 2017 at 11:20 AM
Post by: audiojunkie on Jun 03, 2017 at 11:37 AM
Bro, If I were you I will just stick to the original, they lasted 16 years in you case, so you can buy 2 sets and you are solve for the next 32 years ^-^
Hello bro... 2 sets means 1 volume and 1 selector pots? Haven't buy yet cuz of some other priorities. Thanks for the feedback...
Post by: parasound on Jun 03, 2017 at 12:52 PM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: audiojunkie on Jun 03, 2017 at 09:55 PM
+1 on TKD volume potentiometer
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Same feedback from others. Thanks....
Post by: parasound on Jun 03, 2017 at 10:01 PM
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a201/ronaldcorrales/Mobile%20Uploads/69A40BBF-D691-4359-B414-CC65D5158CEC_zpseonaa5q6.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/ronaldcorrales/media/Mobile%20Uploads/69A40BBF-D691-4359-B414-CC65D5158CEC_zpseonaa5q6.jpg.html)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: audiojunkie on Jun 03, 2017 at 10:19 PM
Currently using TKD CP2511s on my 6sl7/2a3 project..
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a201/ronaldcorrales/Mobile%20Uploads/69A40BBF-D691-4359-B414-CC65D5158CEC_zpseonaa5q6.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/ronaldcorrales/media/Mobile%20Uploads/69A40BBF-D691-4359-B414-CC65D5158CEC_zpseonaa5q6.jpg.html)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That looks very interesting project...
Post by: karipas on Jun 06, 2017 at 04:29 AM
Hello bro... 2 sets means 1 volume and 1 selector pots? Haven't buy yet cuz of some other priorities. Thanks for the feedback...
Sorry I misread your post. If the volume knob and selector switch are shot, I will go for stock/original part presumably cheaper and will still last you plenty of years, even if you buy 2 sets for backup you might still save money.
Post by: karipas on Dec 02, 2018 at 12:08 PM
Does your comment below applies to tubes used in pre-amps or amps or just for rectifiers?
Mine is a loaded question depending on the answer can go different directions; I plan to build an VTA ST 120 in the spring and a little understanding in tube selection will help and for additional knowledge.
Also I came back to your comment as I did my first tube rolling 2 weeks ago, I replaced the 12AX7 EH with Mullards on my pre-amp, but did not hear any significant change which led me to ask the question.
Thanks.
the tube business is indeed a funny business,
GE buys tubes from RCA with the GE logo and vice versa...
Mullard ask Toshiba to make tubes for them, etc, etc,
having a tube that works well is good enough,
remember that cathodes of tubes gets depleted in use,
so that when transconductance is almost gone, you will see a lot of manifestations.....
so i look at tubes, not by who made them, but how much life is inside of them...