-
DIY Guide to Home Entertainment System
Home theater is one of the most exciting developments in the history of consumer electronics. Enjoying great movies, television shows and sporting events is an activity that brings family and friends together. Watching a movie or concert on a good home theater system will quicken your pulse, tug on your heartstrings and raise goosebumps on your skin.
Unfortunately, the very words “home theater” seem to intimidate people. Too many movie lovers believe they’ll need a second mortgage to afford all the hardware, or a pilot’s license to install and operate it. It doesn’t have to be that way. Sure, there’s no shortage of expensive, complex gear; but for less than the cost of a week’s vacation you can own a fine system that will provide your entire family with years of pleasure.
Mga bro, para sa ating lahat ito. Na-inspire ako sa mga nababasa ko dito sa pinoy dvd kaya naisipan ko na mag-introduce ng topic na ito bilang one-stop reference to take the mystery and confusion out of home theater. I’m encouraging everyone to share their expertise, experiences, questions and comments para mas maging helpful ang forum nating ito. The goal is to widen our knowledge regarding home theater especially those who are new in this or are beginning to appreciate the increasing popularity, availability and affordability and would like to broaden their knowledge and setup their own home entertainment system. We will not be particular with specific brands but will once in a while mention equipment model for reference (major brands and minor brands). Minsan ay magpo-post din tayo ng reviews regarding certain equipment. Our topics will cover but will not be limited to the following:
- What is home theater?
- Integrated Systems (HtiBs)
- Component Systems (Separates)
- Surround Formats
- The Equipment / Choosing
- Selecting Loudspeaker Types
- System Setup
- Specific Hookup Recommendations For Each Loudspeaker Types
- Speaker Placement
- Processor Configuration and Bass Management
- Optimizing The Sound of Your Room
- How To Read DVD Label
PS:
Mga bro, I’m not an expert and is not pretending to be an expert regarding home entertainment system and everybody’s help is welcome.
:-* :) ;)
-
What is Home Theater?
If you're currently watching movies on your television, congratulations! You're already enjoying home theater! You see, home theater is nothing more than the marriage of sight and sound, a blending of audio and video. Of course, by comparison to the local cinema, your television's small screen and dinky speaker will deliver a grossly inferior experience. The goal of home theater system is to bridge this quality gap; by employing a surround sound processor, amplifier and appropriate speakers, your system will approach-and in some ways surpass-the sound and image of a good commercial theater.
Bits and Pieces-What You Need?
The essential parts of a home theater system are a display device and an audio/video source. Sound complicated? Relax. Those are just fancy terms for a television (display) and VCR or DVD player (sources). Add a receiver and speakers, and you're done! Since the subject of video could fill a book of its own, we'll focus our discussion on audio gear.
Components or Systems - What's Best for You?
There are two ways to get a home theater audio system, separate components or all-in-one integrated systems. Here's a brief comparison to help you choose what's best for you.
Integrated Systems
These all-in-one systems are often called "home theater in a box" or home theater "shelf systems." Like their names imply most, if not all, of the audio components you need for home theater are included in the package: speakers, preamp/processor, amplification and sometimes sources such as radio, CD player and even DVD player.
Advantages - This type of system is very easy to choose and buy. Just listen to the various models on display, compare features and price and buy the one that's best for you. These systems are usually very easy to hook up and use. They are generally offered by some of the biggest brand names in the business. Some of them are very inexpensive for the amount of product you get.
Disadvantages - There are very, very few integrated systems on the market that provides truly excellent, high performance sound. Most have limited capacity for adding sources and upgrading.
Separate Components
This type of system includes a preamp/processor, amplifiers (or receiver), speakers and whatever source components you may like such as CD player, DVD player, VCR, etc. Each component is chosen separately and often come from different manufacturers.
Advantages - This type of system offers tremendous flexibility, choice and performance. You can mix and match components from various manufacturers to get the best of each category and exactly meet you unique needs. This approach also allows you to add or upgrade one component at a time to build toward your ultimate system goal.
Disadvantages - Component systems are expensive, harder to choose, set up and use than integrated systems.
-
Convenience or performance, which would you choose? You're thinking about home theater. To get a real movie theater experience in your living room, a DVD player and your dinky TV speakers just aren't gonna cut it. You need a home theater audio system. There are two ways to get a home theater audio system: "all-in-one" systems, or separate components (DVD player, multichannel receiver, etc.). Here's a quick comparison to help you choose what's best for you.
INTEGRATED SYSTEMS (HTiBs)
All-in-one, single-brand systems are often called "Home-Theater-in-a-Box" systems ("HTiB"). Like the term implies, HTiBs include most, if not all, of the audio components you'd need for home theater in one box: small speakers, a preamplifier/processor and amplification (usually in a single receiver unit) and sometimes sources such as radio, CD player and even DVD player.
HTiB Advantages
Easy to choose and buy. Just listen to the various models on display, compare features and price, and buy the one that's best for you. Bingo bango, you got home theater.
Compatibility. There's never a doubt whether the individual parts of the system match each other. These systems are built to work together.
Easy to hook up. They come with all the cables you need (albeit it really cheap ones). Wires, connectors and jacks are usually color coded, with foolproof pre-attached connectors. Kahit baguhan ka o walang experience sa set-up madali mo itong magagawa.
Easy to use. You probably won't even have to read a manual to make it work. Pagkatapos mong ikonek wirings, just plug and play.
Compact size. HTiB systems are usually very small and come with cute little teeny-weeny speakers.
Security. They are generally offered by some of the biggest brand names in the business; Sony, Panasonic, JVC etc and so on. You know these guys. Siyempre nandyan din ang Nextbase, Extreme, Kebao, Promac and others (which offers fairly decent warranty especially kung sa established appliance store mo mabibili – SM Appliance/Western/Abenson/etc.)
Japorms. Some of them do look really cool. (Siyempre ung iba mapagkakamalan mo pang major brand if not for the logo).
Inexpensive. They can be stunningly cheap, they can go for as low as 7,000 pesos complete with all the connectors, remote and batteries, manual and others all in one box. Di ko lang alam kung may kasamang bubble gum. =) :D
HTiB Disadvantages
Limited growth potential. Most HTiBs have a limited number of inputs and other connection facilities kasi tipikal sa mga ito na iisa ang input, mahihirapan ka kung gusto mo ring ikonek ung vcr, tv, cd changer or another source para lumabas din ung audio output sa speakers ng HT mo.
Prone to early obsolescence. Built-in sources (like a DVD player built into a receiver unit) are just not a good idea. People who purchased HTiB systems with built-in DVD players just a year or two ago have experienced the painful limitations of built-in sources when better performance progressive scan DVD players came out shortly thereafter. Lalo na kung madalas mong gagamitin ang dvd player mo to watch pdiscs mas madali masisira. Well, your whole system becomes just a cool-looking doorstop. Pero magagamit mo pa naman ung speakers kung powered.
Limited upgrade path. HTiBs don't grow with your needs. Let's say you move into a bigger house and need a more robust subwoofer to fill the room with bass impact. Sorry. With an HTiB system, you can't upgrade the subwoofer... or the speakers... or the DVD player... or the receiver. And those convenient wires they give you, with the unique connectors? Just wait till you try and get longer wires...
Cheap materials and poor construction. There's a real good reason why HTiB systems are so inexpensive compared with component systems. Of course for every rule there’s an exception, may mga minor (I don’t wanna call it generic) brands that do perform well and sometimes much better pa kesa sa known brands but I think it’s unfair to compare them.
Poor sound quality. With very (VERY) few exceptions, HTiBs perform poorly. They simply don't come even remotely close to the performance of movie theater systems or decent component systems. Typical HTiB shortcomings include lack of deep bass, inability to play at a lifelike volume, lack of clarity and detail. Maririnig mo na ang pagkakaiba pag nilakasan ang volume, kulang na sa power at medyo distorted na.
Weak speaker pedigree. Most HTiBs are made by companies that are not very good at designing loudspeakers. Walk into the sound room where the "better" audio components are displayed. See any Sony, Onkyo or Panasonic SPEAKERS there? No, and for good reason. Better speakers, ones that are capable of really thrilling, lifelike sound quality, come from companies that have dedicated their lives to building loudspeakers.
Cheap speakers. Beyond their questionable parentage, the speakers included in HTiB systems are generally low quality affairs. Most of the time, you can't even take the grille off to check the quantity and quality of the speaker parts. If you could, you would find paper cones with foam surrounds; more akin to what you'd find in cheap, cheesy computer speakers and OEM car stereos than what is typical in decent home audio speakers. Kadalasan pa ay iisang driver lang ang nakakabit sa mga satellites kaya kulang sa detail at linis ung tunog.
HTiB systems are a good choice for:
1. People with limited budgets.
2. Secondary rooms and homes.
3. Small rooms (under 200 sq. feet).
4. Systems with small screen TVs (under 30").
5. Considerate apartment dwellers with sound-sensitive neighbors.
6. People who don't watch big explosive shoot-em-up action/adventure movies.
7. People using this system only for movie and TV viewing.
8. People who are uncomfortable with hooking up "high-tech" devices.
9. People who have no intention of adding to, or upgrading, the system next year
-
COMPONENT SYSTEMS
A home theater system made up of separately-purchased "components" would include (for instance) a multi-channel Dolby Digital receiver (or preamp/processor with separate amplifiers), a set of speakers and whatever source components you choose, such as CD player, DVD player, VCR, etc. Each component would be chosen separately, and they often originate from different manufacturers (halo-halo).
Component System Advantages
Flexibility. Component systems offer tremendous flexibility and choice. You can mix and match components from various manufacturers to get the best product in each category and exactly meet your unique needs for style, size, and performance.
Style choice. You can choose from a wider range of speaker types (floorstanding, bookshelf, compact, etc.), styles and colors or finish choices when you build a component system than you could with pre-packaged HTiB systems. If you were looking for a brushed aluminum receiver (looks cool!) to combine with Cherry wood finish floorstanding speakers (match your furniture), you'll be able to get that combo with components. You'd be out of luck with HTiB.
Extreme upgradeablity. Add or upgrade one component at a time as you build toward your ultimate system goal. Use as many connectors or as much speaker wire as your little heart desires, without being stuck with a finite amount of cheap speaker wire or having to find some obscure connector type.
Greater functionality. Most component receivers have multi-room or multi-zone functions, allowing you to connect speakers in other rooms of the house. And usually, that's just the beginning.
Lowered obsolescence. For you "commitment-phobes," building a component home theater system means you're not married to any one source-technology. Change sources and formats anytime as technology advances. Components mean never having to say you're sorry. Kapag nasira ung dvd player mo, mas madali makakakuha ng kapalit at much better technology pero ung other compo mo nandun pa rin.
Better materials and better build quality. Lift, touch, feel. You will notice the difference, as each manufacturer puts their all into their particular product. Lalong-lalo na sa mga major brands, makikita mo ung kalidad pagpindot mo pa lang sa buttons or pag-eject pa lang ng disc tray. Ung power rating din ng amps mas sigurado ka na yun ung idedeliver na power sa loudspeaker mo.(Sana walang violent reactions sa comment kong ito :) Meron ding ok sa mga minor brands component system kaya lang mas mahirap nga lang makahanap pero maraming threads dito sa pinoydvd tungkol sa mga ito na makakatulong sa atin.
High performance. This is The Big Reason to build your system using components. Systems put together with complementary component parts sound a lot better than all-in-one systems. Many sound as good as, or better than, the surround sound system in your local cinema, to say nothing of your local concert hall. Even a small component system will deliver the kind of sound that raises goose bumps on your arms; sound that gets your heart pounding and puts you on the edge of your seat, iyung tipong mapapalundag ka pag bumulaga si JasonX. For realistic musical reproduction, and real movie theater thrills, "Once you go components you never go back."
Component System Disadvantages
More difficult to choose. Component systems are harder to choose than integrated systems. Kasi nga sa dami ng choices, and it's often difficult to know what component works best with what. The flip side is that it can be more fun and ultimately more satisfying to choose a system that is customized for your needs rather than settling for a cookie-cutter HTiB system. Saka maraming reference kang makukuha tungkol sa iba’t ibang component, kung gusto mo e mag-invest ka sa single brand ng iyong compo system or halo-halo.
More difficult to set up. In order to give you the ability to optimize the electronics for the speakers and to optimize the system for your room, there are set-up controls and adjustments that may be complex and confusing. Instruction manuals can be difficult to understand. Fear not, mortal! Isa yang reason na yan kaya ko naisipan na magsimula ng ganitong topic dahil alam kong maraming pinoy jan na tutulong sa atin.
More difficult to use. You may wind up with several remote controls on your coffee table. Siyempre mas marami ka na kasing pipindutin pero may solusyon jan dahil halos lahat naman ng compo ngayon ay universal remote na ang gamit that can control up to six or more equipment.
More expensive. There are HTiB systems that sell for well under P8,000. Pero kung compo ang bibilin mo ay baka dvd player pa lang yang halagang yan. Pwede kang mag-invest ng 30T-50T for a decent compo system, 50T-90T for a really good system, and 100T and up for a blow your mind system (major brands). But of course you may spend less especially kung minor brands ang ise-setup mo (or kung may alam ka na mababa ang price na swak sa budget natin) kasi ang point ko dito e iba pa rin ang HT experience mo kung compo system ang gamit mo against HTiB.
Component Systems are a good choice for:
1. Larger rooms (over 200 sq. feet).
2. Primary entertainment rooms.
3. Systems with large screen TVs (30" and over).
4. People who watch a lot of action/adventure movies.
5. People who enjoy making their own choices.
6. People using their system for realistic music reproduction as well as movie and TV viewing.
7. People who are comfortable with hooking up "high-tech" devices.
8. People interested in tailoring a system for their own unique needs.
9. People who are looking for truly spine-tingling, gut-rumbling, tick-off-the-neighbors performance.
-
Next time po uli, ubos na time ko. TY
:) ;D :D ;D ;D O0
-
Sherbourn PT-7000 Preamplifier and 7/2100 Amplifier
Fast Facts
PT-7000 Preamplifier
§ Dolby Digital EX and DTS-ES 6.1 channel decoding
§ Dolby Pro Logic II and DTS Neo:6 processing for 5.1/6.1 channel playback from 2 or matrixed 4-channel sources.
§ Cirrus Extra Surround post processing for 6.1/7.1 channel playback from stereo or 5.1 channel sources.
§ Compatible with 96-khz/24-bit PCM stereo recordings
§ DSP crossover frequency individually selectable for L/R front, center, and surround channels.
§ Analog bypass for straight-through stereo playback.
§ 2 HDTV-compatible component-video inputs, 2 outputs.
§ 5 A/V inputs, 2 outputs all with S-video.
§ S-video, composite-video cross conversion.
§ 4 optical, 2 coaxial digital inputs; 1 each optical and coaxial outputs.
§ Multi-channel analog audio input (6 channel) with full analog bass management (80-Hz fixed subwoofer crossover).
§ 4 stereo audio-only inputs; 1 record output.
§ 8 preamp outputs.
§ AM/FM tuner with 32 presets.
§ 8-component preprogrammed/learning system remote.
§ Zone-2 audio-only line-level analog stereo output with independent source selection and volume control.
§ Dual-zone IR-repeater inputs, 12 volt trigger outputs.
§ 17¾ x 5¼ x 16 inches (WxHxD); 25 pounds.
7/2100 Amplifier
§ 200W x 7, each channel driven into 8 ohms from 20 Hz to 20 kHz with less than 0.05% THD. (300W into 4 ohms)
§ Seven fully independent modules.
§ RCA and balanced XLR inputs, multiway binding–post outputs.
§ Channels 1-2, 3-4, and 5-6 bridgeable for higher power.
§ Manual, auto signal-sensing, or 12-volt trigger turn-on.
§ 17¾ x 7 x 18½ inches (WxHxD); 115 pounds.
High Points (PT-7000 & 7/2100)
§ Huge seven-channel power output.
§ Excellent surround performance.
§ Full bass management on multichannel analog input.
§ Refreshingly simple-to-use design and controls.
Low Points (PT-7000 & 7/2100)
§ Expensive
§ No headphone jack or front-panel A/V input.
“…No one who chooses the Sherbourn PT-7000 preamp and 7/2100 amp combo is likely to be disappointed on the basis of fundamental performance. This duo does a super job of providing serious home theater audio, without fuss or funfare. The components aren’t exactly bargain priced, but they aren’t priced extravagantly either. And for that money, you get a kind of artillery-piece solidity that’s quietly reassuring.”
-
Any idea how much the sherbourn AV preamp is?
-
Ibinohos na lahat ni Vicor yong idea about the subject. However, dapat sana isinama kaagad yong price nang sherbourn amp para kumpleto yong evaluation natin. thanks.
-
Sensya na mga bro, very limited internet time ko- as in very limited, kaya buhos ko lahat pwede i-post.
PT-7000 Preamp/Processor = $1,500
7/2100 amplifier = $2,850
-
About the same price as a ROTEL RSP 1068 processor/preamp
You forgot to mention that the 7/2100 power amp has TWO detachable power cords.
Seems nobody ever noticed it weighs 115 lbs!!!!
The Yamaha Z9 only wieghs 67 lbs, the heaviest AV reciever on earth.
It will take two people to lift this amp, unless you're Arnold. About the same weight as the Aragon 8008X5.
And you forgot to say the amp uses SEVEN independent power supplies!!!! It's a monoblock design, 7 of them.
-
Ka-price range nya din Denon AVR-5803, Yamaha RX-V2400 and Integra RDC-7.
-
But it's unfair to compare separates with receivers. Not even the Z9 can touch somthing like this in terms of amplification power.
-
It's unfair nga naman to compare separates from receivers. Anyway, it's always your choice that matters. siguro mas maganda i-compare natin ang PT-7000 with Outlaw Audio 950 Preamp at $800. Parehong pareho ang specs, magkaiba lang ang fascia.
-
(http://C:\Pics\PT7000-Front.jpg)
-
Ano po ba mas maganda, separates or receiver? Ano po ba ang mga dapat tingnan sa equipment bago bilhin?
-
Medyo mahirap mag-post ng pics, mauubos na time ko, aahhh... help!
-
Meron ngang 7 identical, independent channel modules and Sherbourn 7/2100 Amp each with its own toroidal power transformer, capacitors and heat sink. It has two power cords to draw more current from the ac outlet. Me advantage din naman po ung around 52kg weigth ng amp na ito. at least hindi sya basta mananakaw. :D :)
Kelangan nga lamang na medyo matibay ang av rack mo.
-
Nga pala, meron din ang outlaw audio na 7ch amp x 200 watts, ito yung Model 770 na around $1700 ung price and available only thru online sale. Almost the same spec din siya ng Sherbourn 7/2100 amp.
-
Medyo mahirap mag-post ng pics, mauubos na time ko, aahhh... help!
Refer here:
http://www.pinoydvd.com/board/index.php?topic=10013.0
upload your pics here:
http://groups.msn.com/PinoyDVD/shoebox.msnw
-
sir philander, thanks for the info!
Ano po ba mas maganda, separates or receiver? Ano po ba ang mga dapat tingnan sa equipment bago bilhin?
A/V Receiver Buying Guide: (Also for Preamp/Amp)
Ok, paano nga ba pumili ng a/v receiver? First, heto muna ang mga considerations before looking for the right receiver for you bago ka tumingin sa actual specs nito. (Ito muna ang madalas kong ipaintindi sa customer ko kung magpapagawa ng computer na I think applicable din sa HT)
Budget. Dapat mo munang i-consider yung budget mo, how much would you want to spend on this particular hardware? Ilang percent ba ng total budget mo for your Home Entertainment System ang ilalaan dito? To help you decide, you must remember that you’re a/v receiver will be the heart of your system – all other equipment (display, speakers, dvd player, tape deck, etc.) will be connected to this, so investing a modest amount of money should be considered pero hindi naman iyung tipong magagalit si misis.
Purpose/Application. Next for your to consider is how will you actually use you’re a/v receiver. Will it be purely for movie or music or both? Certain brands of a/v receivers particularly shine on movies while others on music. Choose a receiver that will give the best balance of movie and music performance.
Room Size. You also have to consider the size of the room, baka naman nasa 100 sq ft lang ang floor area ng room mo e gagamitan mo ng 200W per channel amp/receiver- it would be very impractical (but if budget is no problem to you, go on), a 50W to 75W per channel power is more than enough for this room size.
Future Plans. Sa pagpili ng a/v receiver, para ka ring namimili ng motherboard ng computer. Meron ka bang mga plano to upgrade or to move into a bigger size room ang HT system mo? Kailangan meron kahit konting allowance for upgrading halimbawa e magdadagdag ka ng cd-changer for your music needs aside from your existing dvd player, dapat mong i-consider yung number ng input and output.
Personal Needs/Taste: In choosing your equipment, kahit ano pa yan, it is important na iyung personal choice mo ang masusunod, huwag kang magpadala basta-basta sa mga sales pitch. Lagi mong isipin na mas magiging contented ka kung yung gusto mo ang masusunod and later on para wala ka ring sisihin. :D
Ok, next tym na uli. galit na boss ko! >:D :P
-
Hello po, may itatanong lang... Magsesetup po ho ako ng home theater system. Base sa mga nabasa ko pong mga thread e mukhang ok kung naka a/v receiver. Pero paano po malalaman na ung DTS, Dolby digital o kung ano mang surround sound naproduce ng isang home theater system ay kapareho din dun sa studio na gumawa ng pelikula? Censya na baguhan lang po. ;D
-
Hello po, may itatanong lang... Magsesetup po ho ako ng home theater system. Base sa mga nabasa ko pong mga thread e mukhang ok kung naka a/v receiver. Pero paano po malalaman na ung DTS, Dolby digital o kung ano mang surround sound naproduce ng isang home theater system ay kapareho din dun sa studio na gumawa ng pelikula? Censya na baguhan lang po. ;D
Let me share my opinion/answer to your question in two parts. First regarding sa Dolby Digital or dts sound format, what I can say is almost always your dvd player (regardless of brand) can faithfully decode the soundtrack encoded in Dolby Digital and/or dts format of the dvd-video you’re playing thru its built in Dolby Digital and/or dts decoder.
Now, the second part is regarding sound reproduction. Dito nagkakaroon ng differences because of the many different ways we choose a/v equipment, setting them up, the way they behave and other factors that affect sound reproduction. Because after decoding, dumadaan pa yan sa postprocessing, then amplification and then sound is created through the speakers. In my point of view, even an HTiB system can decently let you experience the sound of the movie as the filmmaker would want it to present (though maybe not as good as with compo system). But what the heck, why worry too much? Different people hear sounds differently kasi lahat tayo e iba-iba ang sound perception. Nobody can claim that they have the perfect ht system, not even the true-blue audiophiles, sound engineers, etc. etc. Also, films undergo post-production on different studios with different setup and calibration. Besides, baka hindi mo naman magustuhan yung sound reproduction na gustong i-present ng filmmaker di ba?
But if you want some guarantee, try acquiring THX certified a/v equipment but with added cost. THX is much like of a third party quality control system that puts a/v equipment under the process of testing. To achieve THX Certification, home theatre products must meet or exceed the performance requirements under "normal" playback functions set by THX. Aside from the receiver/processor/amp, you may also opt for THX certified speakers for your HT system. Though, be reminded that this doesn’t mean that non-THX equipment are of lesser quality or will perform poorly than THX-certified products because that’s not the case; THX certification is a promise that the manufacturer produces products that collaborates with THX mandated specifications. (I will post more about THX some other time or maybe meron ng threads dito.)
On final note, the only real way for you to know that the sound reproduced by your HT system is the same as what the filmmaker intended it to be is by the filmmaker himself (and you have the same hardware and setup as the studio where the film is processed and produced, same environment, and same room acoustics, etc.). Saka sabi ko nga, don’t worry too much about that thought, enjoy your movies and music because that’s what home entertainment is all about. In the long run naman, maise-setup mo rin ang HT system mo to your own flavor-don’t expect it to be done overnight, it’s a continuing process so acquire a lot of patience. Be happy with whatever HT system you have, enjoy it, give it time to deliver it’s optimum performance, and if in the end you’re not happy with it-dispose it and give it to me. Remember, always trust your ears!
:D ;D :D :) ;) ^-^
-
Thank you, sir. Pero di kaya ng budget ko yung equipment ng isang film studio. ;D .
Yung sound reproduction na as close as possible pero within the budget.
Eto po yung considerations ko ng Home entertainment system.
Based on sa ginawa nyong A/V receiver buying guide.
1. Budget - 150k to 170k for TV, dvd player, A/V receiver, speakers and cables.
2. Application - movies, music at karaoke.
3. Room size - approx. 18 ft by 14 ft
Ano po yung ma recommend nyo?
Salamat po.
-
Pahabol tungkol dun sa Sherbourn PT-7000 Preamp heto po ung photo: :D
(http://www.sherbourn.com/images/photography/pt-7000_front_lg.jpg)
Front
(http://www.sherbourn.com/images/photography/pt-7000_back_lg.jpg)
Rear
-
Pahabol pa rin about Sherbourn 7/2100 amp: :D
(http://www.sherbourn.com/images/photography/7-2100_back_lg.jpg)
Rear View (Plain lang ang front so no need to post)
-
Thank you, sir. Pero di kaya ng budget ko yung equipment ng isang film studio. ;D .
Yung sound reproduction na as close as possible pero within the budget.
Eto po yung considerations ko ng Home entertainment system.
Based on sa ginawa nyong A/V receiver buying guide.
1. Budget - 150k to 170k for TV, dvd player, A/V receiver, speakers and cables.
2. Application - movies, music at karaoke.
3. Room size - approx. 18 ft by 14 ft
Ano po yung ma recommend nyo?
Salamat po.
Since medyo malaki naman budget mo, I would suggest the following:
1. Toshiba 51SW9UC 51" Projection TV (Get the biggest screen size as much as you can)
*High Definition compatible
*SD/Smart Media Card Slot
*3-D Y/C Separator (NTSC
*Double Window
*D-Terminal
*DVD Component Video Input
*RGB Signal Input
*SRS WOW Sound System
*Price=P125,000
2. TEAC AG-D7900 A/V Receiver with 5.1 Speakers
*Output Power (Surround Mode):
Front: 60W + 60W (RMS, 8 Ohms, 0.9% THD)
Center: 60W (RMS, 8 Ohms, 0.9% THD)
Rear: 60W + 60W (RMS, 8 Ohms, 0.9% THD)
*Built-in Dolby Digital & dts decoders
*Ultra Wide Bandwidth
*24-bit / 96 kHz D/A Converters
*Quartz PLL Tuner with 30 presets (AM/FM)
*Sound Modes: dts, Dolby Digital, Dolby Pro Logic, Dolby 3 Stereo, Hall, Theater, Stadium, Disco, Stereo
*Night Mode — Dynamic Range Compression
*Sleep Timer (10 - 90 min.)
*Front Panel Headphone Output
*Digital inputs: Optical — 2, Coaxial — 1
*Digital outputs: Optical — 1
*Subwoofer pre-amp output
*Video: 3 inputs, 2 outputs
*Audio: 5 inputs, 2 outputs
*Binding Post Speaker Terminals
*TEAC "UR" Unified Remote Control
*2 TEAC LSB500 floor-standing main speakers
*1 TEAC LSC50 center-channel speaker
*2 TEAC LSS50 surround speakers
*1 TEAC TSW100 120 Watts powered sub with 10" driver
*Price = P29,000
3. TCL TDE-F70P DVD Player for P6,500 (or get any dvd player you may want.
4. Cables pwede ka na gumawa niyan, or madali na mamili kung audio cable. Kung video cables, get the professional grade.
You may also opt for the Yamaha rx-v440 (6.1) for P14,000 or Denon AVR-1604 (6.1) for P19,500.
You may audition the above products at Listening in Style, EDSA Shari-La Mall and SM Appliance.
-
Ano po ba mas maganda, separates or receiver? Ano po ba ang mga dapat tingnan sa equipment bago bilhin?
A/V Receiver Buying Tips: (continuation)
Ngayon kung desidido ka nang bumili ng a/v receiver, here are what to look for:
Good Power Supply
Weight does matter! Good linear power supplies are heavy and costly. Forget power numbers for a moment. First take a glance at the receiver you are interested in. Look inside it if you can. Observe the power supply section. A good 5 channel receiver should have a power supply capacitance of at least 30,000uF (microfarad) with a large and heavy transformer. The heatsinks should be moderately thick and occupy a great deal of real-estate, housing at least 2 discrete output devices per channel with smaller biasing devices to help maintain class AB operation. Now open up that spec sheet again and look for numbers such as Damping Factor, Dynamic Power in 8/4/2 ohm loads, Power for all channel driven at full bandwidth (20Hz to 20KHz) with THD < 0.1%. These numbers are a starting point in judging the quality of the power supply and amp section.
A good example is the Sherbourn 7/2100 Amp I’ve mentioned some week ago na sabi ni sir av phile1 e medyo mabigat yata at may two power cords but there’s a reason behind this. The 7/2100A weighs an astounding 115 pounds (52 kilos) and features the world’s first seven mono block, seven toroidal transformer amplifier. This brute will output a massive 2.1 kW (on 4 ohms) and comes with two power cords to ensure that you can pull all of the needed power from two outlets, which eliminates the need to install a special 20-amp circuit. It uses fifty-six bi-polar Mosfet transistors and has an over 150,000 microfarad capacitance. It has power requirements of 2x 230V with 7.5A.
Yung lesser sibling, 5/5210 Amp, ay same specs but only with 5-channels, a heatsink measuring over 500 square inches for fan-free cooling, two 10,000 microfarad capacitors, a hefty 400 VA toroidal transformer, and weighs around 85 lbs (38.6 kg). It has power requirements of 2x 230V with 6A.
Build Quality
Quality of construction and workmanship play a vital role in creating an excellent receiver. A receiver built with bad parts is a bad receiver. Take note of the connectors on the backplane. Are they flimsy? Do the speaker terminals accommodate 12 gauge wire? How do the controls on the front feel? Are they well laid out? If you plan on spending an amount of money on a receiver, ask yourself this question: Is the front door panel (if there is one) metal or cheap flimsy plastic? If not, it makes you wonder what else they skimped on internally. Touch and feel the knobs, buttons and chassis, meron bang rough edges? maganit pindutin o pihitin? unresponsive ba mga buttons? Sa mga ganitong paraan, masusukat mo kung maayos ba ang pagkakagawa nung equipment and we’re not talking of style or porma nung product kundi yung amount of detail na ibinigay.
Sound Matters Most !
Before deciding on a receiver you plan on buying based on the specifications you have read, take some time to listen to the product thoroughly. Many mid to low priced receivers packed with features, nice lights and cool face plates suffer from a common problem, terrible preamp/processor sections. Ang tanong, paano mo malalaman kung maganda ba ang preamp section ng receiver (or ng isang preamp connected to an amp)? Maganda na i-audition mo yung equipment sa isang quiet room (or sound room kung possible). Switch the receiver onto a 5 channel mode with no source running. Turn the volume control up about half way and balance all channels using the test tone. Tapos ay pakinggan mong mabuti kung may anumang sound na nagmumula sa speakers at kung may marinig kang sound, nangangahulugan na yung receiver (or preamp) has a noisy preamp section. In a seated position midway between all speakers, listen for excessive background noise. Usually the rear channels are most obvious. If you can clearly hear hissing or white noise from any speaker while seated, than avoid this receiver as it will annoy you in the long run when playing 5 channel sources. If the receiver passed the noise test, move on to quality of the DAC's and ADC's. You should compare the fidelity of sound of the internal DAC's with that of the CD/DVD player you are using in your system. When switching from analog to digital inputs on the receiver, you should notice similar or better fidelity. If you don't this may imply the DAC's in the receiver are not as good as the ones in your CD/DVD player. This may present a problem to those who enjoy listening to DSP modes or want to really reproduce excellent 5 channel DD/DTS surround. If the DAC's in the receiver are weak than you may have to rely on the DAC's in the CD player while listening to music in DSP modes. Doing this would involve a D/A conversion from your CD player to a A/D conversion in your DSP processor and finally a D/A conversion before the signal gets amplified. This process will manipulate the source 3 times as opposed to one. This should be avoided if possible as it will result in loss of fidelity.
-
A/V Receiver Buying Tips: (continuation)
Sound Fidelity
Alright, so the receiver passed the noise test, what next? The amplifiers. In order for the receiver to be a winner, it has to deliver quality power for your speakers in the room size you are in and listening levels you are accustomed too. Pick speakers in the showroom as close to the ones you own or plan on buying. Put on a bass heavy CD. Listen to the bass notes for strain, boominess and lack of impact. If the receiver shares these characteristics, it is attributed to a weak power supply. This will be a problem for those with large tower speakers who demand bass output without the use of a powered subwoofer. Next listen to the midrange and high frequency spectrum. The midrange should have good balance throughout the 200Hz - 4KHz bandwidth free from excessive boosting or attenuation within the frequency spectrum. The high frequency spectrum above 4 KHz should sound airy, natural and not overly bright. Receivers which tend to sound bright must be carefully mated with speakers with a subtle nature in the high frequency spectrum.
Surround Sound Performance
Surround sound performance is a very critical issue that you must pay careful attention to. Listen to all of the surround formats available on the receiver (IE.DPL,DD,DTS) and verify there is no center channel bleed over into the other surround channels. You can accomplish this by listening to a movie with the center channel speaker on and the other speakers off. Familiarize yourself with the voices that are emanating from the center speaker. Now disconnect the center channel and reconnect the front speakers. Listen for bleed over of the voices to the main speakers. Next turn on all 5 channels and listen to a particular movie passage. Pay attention to how the sounds shift from one speaker to the next. Listen to this passage repeatedly until its familiarity is burned in your head. Compare its sound characteristic with the different receivers using the same speaker set-up to determine which receiver decodes the information best.
Necessary Features
Aside from quality amplifiers and power supplies, features are one of the most important concerns when purchasing a receiver. You want the receiver you choose to purchase not only to sound good but to provide you with the features you need/desire. It is always better if you can buy a receiver with many A/V inputs and outputs both analog and digital, and plenty of s-video / component video switching. Does the receiver have the ability to differentiate between composite video and s-video? If it doesn't, you will have to get behind the receiver to flip a switch every time you go from a composite video source to an s-video one in order to utilize on screen display menus. Are the onscreen displays (if this feature exists on the model you choose) intuitive? If not, you will be scratching your head often when attempting to optimize the performance of the system. Is the remote control complete with all function keys necessary to properly operate your system? And, is it easy to operate? If not, you will be investing in a multi-brand remote after many frustrating hours.
Ayaan, ... hirap magtype! Use this only as guidelines, pero maaaring me iba pa. Anyway, when you are scouting for receivers, pili ka ng 3 topc choices according to your budget, needs, taste; then lista mo specs and other info. Be realistic, huwag ka maglista ng way out of your budget because sabi ni ganito e maganda. Try to remember na may mga cheaper alternatives na pwedeng pagpiliian at malay mo, baka swak iyon sa panlasa mo.
until next time po! ubos na naman time ko!..... ;D ;D ;D ;D :-* 8)
next topic: surround formats
-
Thank you, sir. Pero di kaya ng budget ko yung equipment ng isang film studio. ;D .
Yung sound reproduction na as close as possible pero within the budget.
Eto po yung considerations ko ng Home entertainment system.
Based on sa ginawa nyong A/V receiver buying guide.
1. Budget - 150k to 170k for TV, dvd player, A/V receiver, speakers and cables.
2. Application - movies, music at karaoke.
3. Room size - approx. 18 ft by 14 ft
Ano po yung ma recommend nyo?
Salamat po.
HT Setup 2:
1. Hitachi C47-WD5000 Widescreen Projection TV (Price = P 110,000)
(http://www.hitachi.com.au/hitachi/content/assets/C57WD5000(2).png)
KEY FEATURES:
• Full Multi System
• 200 Program Preset
• Digital Comb Filter
• Memory Card Slot Available (requires PC card Adapter)
• Progressive Scan/Virtual HD/100Hz (525i/p, 635i/p, 750p, 1125i)
• HD Through Mode
• Teletext
• Front Panel Lighting
• Magic Focus III (Auto Digital Convergence)
• Contrast Ultrashield
2. Pioneer 566K DVD Player
(http://www.pioneer.com.sg/image/bg_dv566k.jpg)
Video Features
• 54MHz (progressive)/10-bit D/A converter
• PureCinema Progressive Scan (for NTSC)
• Twin-Wave Laser pickup (DVD/DVD-R/DVD-RW*/SVCD/VCD/CD/CD-R/CD-RW)
• PhotoViewer (JPEG playback**)
• DVD-RW Playback (Video Recording Format)
• Component video output
PAL/NTSC Dual System with PAL-NTSC Video Converter
Audio Features
• 192kHz/24-bit audio D/A converter
• Dolby Virtual
• MP3 playback [Glossary]
• Optical and coaxial digital out
• (DTS /Dolby Digital /MPEG Audio/ Linear PCM)
• Dynamic range control
• Digital out on/off
• Karoke functions with Mic Echo and Digital Key Control
3. Receiver
(http://www.abtelectronics.com/images/products/BDP%20Images/big_avr1604_F.jpg)
Denon AVR-1604 Receiver (Price = P 19,500)
• Dolby Digital, including Surround Ex decoding
• Dolby Pro Logic II decoding with Cinema and Music Modes
• DTS ES Discrete 6.1, Matrix 6.1 decoding
• DTS Neo:6 Cinema & Music Surround decoding
• Analog Devices Melody 32-bit Fixed Point DSP processor
• 6 Channels equal power amplifier section
• 75 watts per channel (8 ohms, 20 Hz-20 kHz, <.08%THD)
• 110 watts per channel (6 ohms, 1 kHz, <.7%THD)
• Banana Plug Speaker Connections all channels (Except Speaker B)
• Subwoofer Pre-out, with Variable Hi/Low-pass Cross-over points(80/100/120/150Hz)
• 24 bit, 96 kHz high resolution DACs on all eight channels
• Real 24 bit, 96 kHz Digital Interface Receiver
• 2 sets component video inputs(30MHz), compatible with progressive DVD, DTV
• 4 sets composite with 3 "S" video inputs
• 5.1 external wide bandwidth (100 kHz) input for future multi-channel formats (such as DVD-Audio)
• 5/6 Channel Stereo
• Personal Memory Plus
• 4 assignable digital inputs (3 Optical, 1 Coaxial)
• Optical digital output
• Front Panel A/V Inputs, with Optical Digital
• Front Panel Speaker A/B Selector
• 9 analog inputs including built-in AM/FM tuner
• Remote I/O Ports
• Glow in the dark main function keys
• Dimensions: 17.1"w x 5.8"h x 16.4"d
OR
(http://www.yamahamusic.com.au/products/p_avit/home_theatre_av/images/receivers/RXV640.jpg)
Yamaha RX-V640 Receiver (Price = P 19,920)
• High power 6-channel discrete amplifier configuration (85W x 6 RMS)
• Digital ToP-ART (Total Purity Audio Reproduction Technology)
• High Current Amplification for high sound quality
• Easy setup and operation
• Dolby Digital EX, Dolby Pro Logic II, DTS-ES Discrete 6.1, and DTS Neo:6
• Powerful 32-bit Yamaha LSI (YSS-938) for CINEMA DSP processing
• 24 surround programs (44 variations) with SILENT CINEMA and Night Listening mode
• Extensive input capability including 4 optical/1 coaxial digital, 5 S-video, 5 A/V and 2 audio inputs
Click this link for detailed info:
http://www.yamaha.co.jp/english/product/av/pdfs/moreinfo/rxv640.pdf
3. Speakers:
(http://www.yamaha.co.jp/english/product/av/products/ht/img/ns7390cuf.gif)
Yamaha NS-7390 Floor-standing speakers (Price = P 9,250/pair)
• 3-Way bass-reflex design
• 6” cone woofer, 4” cone midrange driver, 3/4" balanced dome tweeter
• Magnetic shielding
• Frequency response: 38-20,000 Hz
• Impedance: 8 ohms
• Input power (Max/Nominal): 220W / 60W
• Sensitivity: 86 dB / 2.83 V/m
• Gold-plated banana plug compatible speaker terminals
• Dimensions (WxHxD): 210 x 870 x 265 mm
• Weight: 10.2 kg or 22.5 lbs
(http://www.yamaha.co.jp/english/product/av/products/ht/img/nsp70c.gif)
Yamaha NS- P70 (Price = P 8,750)
Center Speaker
2-Way Acoustic Suspension Design
Dual 10cm (4”) Cone Woofer and 2.2cm (7/8”) Dome Tweeter
Magnetic Shielding
Frequency Response: 70–30,000 Hz
Impedance: 6 ohms
Input Power (Max/Nominal): 180 W/60 W
Sensitivity: 91 dB/2.83V/m
Crossover Frequency: 5 kHz
2-Way Binding Post Speaker Terminal (Banana-Plug Compatible;except European models)
Dimensions (W x H x D): 465 X 135 X 174 mm; 17-1/8” x 5-5/16” x 6-7/8”
Weight: 3.5 kg; 7.7 lbs.
3 Rear (Rear Left, Rear Right and Rear Effect) Speakers
2-Way Acoustic Suspension Design
10cm (4”) Cone Woofer and 2.2cm (7/8”) Dome Tweeter
Magnetic Shielding
Frequency Response: 80–30,000 Hz
Impedance: 6 ohms
Input Power (Max/Nominal): 150 W/50 W
Sensitivity: 90 dB/2.83 V/m
Crossover Frequency: 5 kHz
2-Way Binding Post Speaker Terminal (Banana-Plug Compatible;except European models)
Dimensions (W x H x D): 150 x 265 x 156 mm; 5-7/8” x 10-7/16” x6-1/8”/unit
Weight: 2.3 kg; 5.1 lbs./unit
(http://www.yamaha.co.jp/english/product/av/products/ht/img/215.gif)
Yamaha YST-SW215 Powered Sub (Price = P 11,500)
QD-Bass (Quatre Dispersion Bass) technology
Advanced YST (Yamaha Active Servo Technology)
150W dynamic power
BASS (Bass Action Selector System)
20cm (8") multi-range driver with magnetic shielding
30–200Hz low frequency reproduction
Auto Standby with Sensitivity Selector(HIGH, LOW and OFF)
Low (0.5W) standby power consumption
Click this link for detailed info:
http://www.yamaha.co.jp/english/product/av/pdfs/moreinfo/ystsw315215npb.pdf
You may audition the above hardware at Listening Room, 3/F SM Megamall Bldg. B.
You may also visit the Dai-Ichi showroom at the 5th level of SM Megamall for a wider range of loudspeakers.
*Include in your purchase items such as power conditioner/surge protector.
-
Una sa lahat salamat po sa recommendations nyo. Ma-audition nga mga yan. ;D
Pansin ko sa nirecommend nyo, leaning more towards visual aspect ng HES.
Medyo curious lang po ako kung ano mas importante yung sounds ba o yung visual?
-
Una sa lahat salamat po sa recommendations nyo. Ma-audition nga mga yan. ;D
Pansin ko sa nirecommend nyo, leaning more towards visual aspect ng HES.
Medyo curious lang po ako kung ano mas importante yung sounds ba o yung visual?
Both.
The reason why I'm recommending the biggest screen size possible you can afford (and a widescreen at that) is that it is always much easier and practical to upgrade the audio part of your system. It is more thrilling to watch on big screen than on smaller screen, it is as close as you can get to movie theater. Also, you don't wan't to pair your a/v compo system with matching floorstanding sepakers on those small screen tv (do you?). Anyway, if you opt for smaller screen, why not? It is your decision that always matters.
Life is like a ten-speed bicycle, most of us have gears we never use.
[/size]
-
Kuwento muna ako: “A Tale of Two Speakers”
Last Sunday, me and my family visited our relatives (my father’s side) in Bulacan, which I haven’t seen since my wedding five years ago (how time flies!). Siyempre, kumustahan, kuwentuhan, etc. Tapos, lumipat kami dun sa isa ko pang tiyahin (daming kamag-anak e) na elder sister of my great father, kuwento uli, kumustahan, kainan, but merong bagay na nakakuha ng atensiyon ko. Habang nagkakatawanan medyo inispat-isapatan ko, nilapitan ko. Tama ba itong nakikita ng mga mata ko? A pair of loudspeakers? Natatandaan ko to, ito yung pares noon sa compo system nila na Kenwood a, tama ito nga yun tanda ko dahil ito yung audio system nila when I was still in college. At naaalikabukan lang, may nakapatong pa na flower vase! Aba teka nga at kokomprontahin ko si Tita, it is cruelty to a fine peace of av hardware.
-
To continue the story, naiuwi ko yung loudspeaker nung hapong iyon, ibinigay naman ni tita n g buong puso. Yung compo system sira na kaya ipinamigay na lang daw. Medyo mabigat ha, buti na lang may arkilado akong revo noon. :D
So what’s the connection? ??? Heto na nga, pagdating ng bahay (rented apartment) at medyo makapagpahinga (at tulog na ang mga kids), ininspeksyon ko yung 2 speaker, I’m crossing my fingers na sana buo pa kaya kinuha ko yung analog multitester ko, tsek ko muna baka shorted masira pa receiver ko. Kinuha ko yung reading sa speaker terminals, parehong ok yung reading! Teka, magandang senyales to a. Pinunasan ko yung baffle ng MC cleaner saka nilinis ko yung cover, aba parang bago na uli! ;D
Then, kinuha ko yung receiver ko na nakakahon pa dahil itinago ko muna. Yamaha RX-V440 na nabili ko last Christmas pa (P15,000) as a gift to myself after receiving my 13th month pay na unfortunately ay hindi ko pa nagagamit talaga dahil no budget for speakers pa. Biruin mo, magla-lapse na yung warranty hindi ko pa nagagamit. Kahit madami-dami na rin akong na-audition at na-canvass na speakers e hindi pa rin ako makabili, dami kasing gastusin, I have to replace my computer’s video card, tuition pa ng kinder-1 ko ng panganay, and others pa. Baka sakalin na ko ni misis kapag bumili ako ng speakers at this point in time. Anyway fully tested naman iyong receiver ko for one week dahil ipinagamit ko muna sa friend ko na may HT setup at ok naman ang performance.
After carefully unpacking the receiver, ipinuwesto ko sya sa a/v rack ko then connected the analog out of my nextbase dvd player to the receivers analog input (wala pa akong digital connector). Stereo lang muna dahil ang aim ko naman ay malaman lang kung tumutunog yung speakers. Nung ikokonek ko na yung speaker saka ko naalala na wala nga pala akong speaker wires! Hagilap ako ngayon sa toolbox ko kaya lang wala na pala akong extra wires, kaya ginawa ko na lang ginamit ko muna yung extension wire na gamit for washing machine. (hehehe… lagot kay misis nito). :-*
After some moments of tinkering with the connections and other stuff, it’s time to power things up so pinindot ko na yung power switche starting from the AVR (automatic voltage regulator), then dvd player, tv, and finally the receiver. All volume controls were at their minimum, then I played the acoustic collection pdisc. I gradually turn-up the volume of the dvd player up to 30% then gradual din yung pag turn ko sa volume ng receiver. Gwala! I have audio! Buo pa yung dalawang loudspeaker na by the way ay 3-way bookshelf with 3/4 inch dome tweeter, 3 inch mid driver and 8 inch woofer. Bass reflex yung encolsure na makapal judging from knocking the sides and by lifting the loudspeaker which weighs maybe around 5-8 kilos each, with dimensions of (WxHxD) 12 x 24 x 10 inches (typical na baffle dimension noon na wide and shallow, unlike ngayon na narrow but deep).
And guess what? The sound emanating from the speakers were clean and crisp, not too bright and with enough deep bass. I tried tinkering with the setup menu of the receivers (of which is plenty, typical of Yamaha) and set the main speakers to ‘LARGE’ and with subwoofer set to ‘OFF’ , while the center and surround channels were set to ‘SMALL’. In this way, bass handling will be directed to the two ‘Front’ speakers, which will result in more bass reproduction since I’m only using two speakers and I’m confident that they can handle bass decently kasi narinig ko na tumunog ito noon at maganda ang sound even at higher volume level. I tried positioning the speakers to get a better soundstage, hindi ko na pinakialaman yung DSP mode ng receiver kasi analog connection naman gamit ko, then played the “Whenever, Wherever, Whatever” and “I’ll Be” tracks on the cd. Sound reproduction was fine, male voices were not too thin, ngongo, nor too chesty and the bass was not boomy either. Sound was also clean, I can even hear yung pagkaskas dun sa gitara kapag lilipat ng key, natural din yung sound with minimal coloration (almost close as ‘live’ guitar playing, I know kasi naggigitara din ako). Maybe it helped na tahimik na yung environment at that time (past eleven na yata yun) kaya even in around 20% volume of the receiver e malakas na yung sound. Medyo inantok nga ako sa pakikinig kasi enveloping yung sound (bukod sa pagod na rin ako) saka nakapikit ako habang nakikinig. After some more listening to other tracks (rock, new wave, disco, nursery rhyme) medyo nagligpit lang ako ng konti, at natulog na ko.
I’m not saying na perfect yung set-up ko since I’ve only tested it palang sa music, but all in all, I can say na agad that I’ve found a nice complement to my receiver, of which ay naaalikabukan lang na speaker dati. Sometimes, talagang you’ll find treasure in garbage or in the most unlikely places. At minsan lang talaga, you just have to use your resourcefulness to achieve something. Siguro next project ko for my ht ay mag-design ako ng stand for my speakers, then ipagawa ko dun sa gawaan ng bintana para hindi masyadong mahal.
P.S.: Meron na ba tayong thread dito about DIY speaker project? As I’ve said, very limited kasi internet time ko dahil prepaid yung phone line sa bahay kaya mas madalas na nagre-rent na lang ako, or minsan konek ko yung phone line sa office, hati pa ang internet time sa computer, music, ht, and others.
Haaay life... so many things to do, so little time. :(
-
vircor
Sir, thank you po sa answers to my inquiries. this thread is really helpful to a newbie like me who doesn't have the time and the know how to look for resoucers regarding Home Entertainment System. very accomodating po kayo and fully explained and comprehensive yung mga posts nyo but at the same time ay not intimadating at saka pinoy na pinoy. I'm compiling the posts in this thread to be printed later on para meron akong maging manual for this new interest of mine.
i'm waiting for your posts about surround formats and others. btw, nice story! :D
-
Here's a quick rundown of the different surround formats:
Surround Sound Decoding
Right off the bat, let's discuss a receiver's surround sound decoding functions. Surround sound is encoded in the source material and must be decoded into their separate channels to drive separate loudspeakers. The current de facto standard for surround sound is 5.1-channel (Dolby Digital and optionally DTS). 6.1-channel formats are available but few movies and DVDs are encoded with these extended surround sound formats. A receiver should come with decoding for the following surround sound formats, as an absolute minimum:
(http://www.timefordvd.com/images/logo/Dolby_Surround_ProLogic_small.gif)
Dolby Surround Pro-Logic: This surround sound format is used in Hi-Fi VHS and analog TV broadcasts dating back to 1987. It matrixes (folds in) the center channel information into the left and right main channels. The surround channel signal is mono (1-channel) and is bandwidth limited, with only frequencies between 100 Hz and 7,000 Hz. The surround sound channel is also encoded into the main left and right channels.
(http://www.timefordvd.com/images/logo/Dolby_Digital_logo_small.gif)
Dolby Digital: The de facto surround sound standard for all DVD-Video soundtracks and digital TV (HDTV) soundtracks. This flexible surround sound encoding algorithm allows up to 5.1 channels of a surround sound soundtrack to be discretely (independently) encoded. This provides better localization of sounds anywhere in the five loudspeaker locations. Read more about Dolby Digital here.
(http://www.timefordvd.com/images/logo/dts_logo_whitebkgd.gif)
DTS Digital Surround (DTS): A competing surround sound format to Dolby Digital that can also support up to 5.1 channels of audio. DTS uses higher data rates to encode the same soundtrack information. Some home theater enthusiasts believe that DTS soundtracks sounds better than that of Dolby Digital. Unfortunately, however, DTS is an optional soundtrack and is found on few DVD-Video titles. Read more about DTS here.
"5.1-channel ready" receivers. This type of A/V receiver does not have built-in decoding for any of the 5.1-channel surround sound formats such as Dolby Digital or DTS. Instead, this type of receiver provides 5.1-channel analog input jacks and depends on the other component (e.g., DVD player or separate decoder) to perform the decoding for Dolby Digital and DTS.
State-of-the-art receivers will include decoding for one or more of the following, in addition to the list above:
(http://www.timefordvd.com/images/logo/THX_Surround_EX_logo_small.gif)
THX Surround EX or Dolby Digital EX: A relatively new Extended Surround "6.1"-channel format that is based on Dolby Digital. The addition of one or two back surround speakers allow complete 360° of envelopment. The back surround audio channel is matrix encoded into the left and right surround channels, and is therefore not a true discrete 6.1-channel audio format. Few movies are produced and consequently few DVD-Video titles are released with this new surround sound format. Read more about THX Surround EX or Dolby Digital EX here.
(http://www.timefordvd.com/images/logo/dts-es-color_small.gif)
DTS-ES Matrix: Another relatively new Extended Surround "6.1"-channel format that is based on DTS. DTS-ES Matrix is similar to Dolby Digital EX in that the back surround audio channel is matrix encoded into the left and right surround channels, and is therefore not a true discrete 6.1-channel audio format. Very few DVD-Video titles are released with DTS-ES Matrix surround sound option. Read more about DTS-ES Matrix here.
(http://www.timefordvd.com/images/logo/dts-es-color_small.gif)
DTS-ES Discrete 6.1: This DTS-based Extended Surround format is a true discrete 6.1-channel format, with a discretely encoded (not matrix encoded) back surround channel. This provides the ability to precisely place surround sound effects behind the audience. Unfortunately, only a handful of DVD-Video titles are released with DTS-ES Discrete 6.1 surround sound option. Read more about DTS-ES Discrete 6.1 here.
(http://www.timefordvd.com/images/logo/Dolby_ProLogic-II_logo_med.gif)
Dolby Pro Logic II (DPL II): As its name implies, DPL II is the newer version of the original Dolby Surround Pro Logic. In Movie mode, it provides better decoding of legacy Dolby Surround Pro Logic with its advanced digital signal processing and steering logic. Decoded surround channels are discrete and are full frequency (20 Hz to 20 KHz). In Music mode, DPL II works with any ordinary stereo audio source, converting 2-channel audio programs into 5.1-channel surround sound for a compelling multi-channel audio experience. This is a great feature that allows you to enjoy stereo sources in the glory of 5.1-channel surround sound.
(http://www.timefordvd.com/images/logo/DolbyHeadphone_logo_77x53.gif)
Dolby Headphone: This powerful digital signal processing algorithm simulates the acoustic soundscape of a 5.1-channel home theater surround sound loudspeaker system through the use of an ordinary pair of stereo headphone. If the receiver has this feature, all you need is any ordinary set of headphones to enjoy Dolby Headphone (no special headphone required). Read more about Dolby Headphone here.
(http://www.timefordvd.com/images/logo/DTS_Neo6_logo_small.gif)
DTS Neo:6: Similar to Dolby Pro Logic II, DTS Neo:6 decodes Dolby Surround Pro Logic matrix-encoded stereo source into 5.1-channel or 6.1-channel. DTS Neo:6 can synthesize the back surround channel from 5.1-channel sources. In DTS Neo:6 Music mode, 2-channel audio programs are converted into 5.1-channel or 6.1-channel surround sound for a compelling multi-channel audio experience.
THX Ultra2 Cinema mode and MusicMode: In Cinema mode, THX Ultra2 converts Dolby Surround Pro Logic matrix-encoded stereo and 5.1-channel soundtracks into 7.1-channel soundtracks. In MusicMode, 2-channel audio programs are converted into 7.1-channel surround sound for a compelling multi-channel audio experience.
For a home theater receiver, Dolby Digital and DTS decoding are must-haves.
Then consider Dolby Pro Logic II and DTS Neo:6,
followed by THX Surround EX (or equivalently
Dolby Digital EX) and DTS-ES surround sound decoding.
TY
-
mga sir, ano po ba yung 5.1, 6.1 and 7.1? :)
-
mga sir, ano po ba yung 5.1, 6.1 and 7.1? :)
Kung pag-uusapan ang soundtrack (movies & DVDs), 5.1 means that the soundtracks are recorded with five main channels: left, center, right, left surround, and right surround, plus a low-frequency effects (LFE) bass channel. Ganon din sa 6.1-channel encoded soundtrack na nadagdagan naman ng rear surround (or rear center) channel, either matrix (galing sa left and right surround ung information) or discrete. Wala pang movie or DVD na encoded ung soundtrack into 7.1-channel (at least sa pagkakaalam ko). Ang 5.1 pa rin ang standard sa movie or DVD, bihira pa ang 6.1.
With respect to playback, the terms 5.1, 6.1, and even 7.1 mean that there are five, six, or even seven main speakers, plus a subwoofer, in the playback system. The difference is in the number of surround speakers: two in a 5.1 system, three in a 6.1 system, and four in a 7.1 system.
Obviously, a 5.1-channel soundtrack can be played on a 5.1-speaker system. But it is not always understood that it can also be played on a 6.1- or a 7.1-speaker system. To do this, the two surround signals on the 5.1 soundtrack are spread across the three or four surround speakers. This distribution can be accomplished by a Dolby Digital EX decoder, a THX Surround EX decoder, or other proprietary methods provided in home theater equipment by various manufacturers.
Ano ba ibig sabihin ng mga ito? The delivery format and the speaker configuration are independent, and it is the decoder's job to bridge them effectively. Puwede tayong gumamit ng 5.1 (or more) speaker setup for playback of sources with stereo, for example, soundtrack by using matrix surround decoder gaya ng Dolby Pro Logic II. Ganun din naman na pwede nating gamitan ng 2 speaker setup lang for playback of sources, particularly DVDs, kung saan yung soundtrack ay encoded in 5.1 Dolby Digital, 5.1 DTS, Dolby Surround, etc.
Tama po ba mga sir? ::) ;D
-
Samples of A/V Receivers: (5.1, 6.1 and 7.1 channels)
Promac AV-S6002AF ‘5.1-Channel Ready’ Receiver
(http://www.promac.com.ph/images/products/av-s6002af_402w.jpg)
Onkyo TX-DS777 5.1-Channel AV Receiver
(Dolby Digital / DTS / Dolby Pro-Logic / 170W x 5 @ 6 ohms)
(http://www.onkyo-intl.com/products/av_components/av_receivers/tx-ds777/i_front.jpg)
Sherwood RD-6108 5.1-Channel AV Receiver
(Dolby Digital / DTS / Dolby Pro-Logic II / 100W x 5 @ 6 ohms)
(http://www.sherwoodusa.com/images/am/p_rd6108.gif)
Yamaha RX-V440 6.1-Channel AV Receiver
(Dolby Digital / Dolby Digital-EX / DTS Digital Surround / DTS-ES Discrete 6.1 / DTS-ES Matrix 6.1 / Dolby Pro Logic / Dolby Pro-Logic II Music & Movies / DTS Neo:6 Music & Cinema / 65W x 6 @ 8 ohms, 20–20,000 Hz, 0.06% THD)
(http://www.yamaha.co.jp/english/product/av/products/ht/img/rxv440.gif)
Denon AVR-5803 7.1-Channel AV Receiver
(Dolby Digital PLIIx, HDCD DECODERS and DENON LINK III Added! • THX Ultra2 Certified • THX Surround EX; DTS Extended Surround Discrete 6.1; DTS ES Matrix 6.1; DTS Neo:6 Cinema & Neo:6 Music Matrix Decoding; Dolby Digital EX; Dolby Pro Logic II; Dolby Headphone; DTS • Ultra2 7.1 Cinema and Music modes • Lucasfilm Home THX Cinema 4.0, 5.1 and 6.1ES post-processing • DVD-Audio decoding with Adjustable Digital Bass Management, Delay, Channel Levels and Tone Controls • 170W x 7 @ 8 ohms, 20 Hz-20 kHz, <.05%THD)
(http://www.usa.denon.com/catalog/photos/5803_FR%2021302.jpg)
-
DVD Player Buying Guides:
Choose a DVD player that has the following characteristics:
1. Easy and intuitive to operate - especially the remote, para di mahuli na nood ka porno ;D ;D
2. Free from tracking and electromechanical problems – dala ka sample discs of different type (DVD, DVD-R, Audio CD, CD-R with MP3, CD with JPEG files) test first if the player can read those discs. Also try to open and close the disc tray around ten times (ingat lang baka magalit tindera ;D ) and look if minsan bumabara ba yung tray or masyado maingay.
3. Excellent video performance– Pay close attention to how colors are produced and how black is black on the screen. Is the picture lacking in detail and clarity? Or is it too edgy (high contrast)?
4. Excellent audio performance – Clarity and richness of the sound is the name of the game. Pakinggan din kung ok ba reproduction ng Dolby Digital or DTS sound – baka halo-halo yung audio. (halo-halo sarap nun! ;D )
5. Has at least the minimum features you require – Ano ba gusto mo, me karaoke function with pitch control and mic? Or are you looking for a player which can read almost all format. Kelangan ba me dts decoder o happy ka na sa Dolby Digital? Any which way, settle for the one that fits your needs and
5. Falls within your budget and performance expectations – Bahala ka na kung gusto mo ng major brands or minor brands (generics).
6. Reliability – a good service center will be nice to give you some peace of mind.
Whatever brand you chose for your DVD player, ENJOY! ;D
-
Here's an additional info:
1) Multiregion- So that Title choices are not limited.
2) Internal PAL/NTSC converter- let me also answer here the question you posted in the Pioneer thread...NTSC and PAL/SECAM are broadcast signals that are being transmitted to your Television set in order that an image be produced. They have different names since they differ in the Image frame per time difference(not sure which is which one is 4.5 other is 5...to the techies help ) anyway...since they differ...Television(or a VHS/VCD/DVD player) with a PAL format cannot interpret finely an NTSC broadcast and vice versa...hence the picture quality will be distorted to become either black and white with wavy and annoying lines.
Now an Internal converter is a first among DVD players...in fact some DVD players have Internal converters that translate a PAL signal to a NTSC even in specifically made NTSC Televisions, hence you wont need any Multisytem TVs in order to enjoy titles coming from countries like the United Kingdom or Saudi Arabia whose main signals are of the PAL format.
3) Autovolt-this is self explanatory
4) With 5.1 audio output- this is an analog output...it's better to have one available just in case you'll try to go cheap and utilized those utilitarian amplifiers being sold in Raon(really temptingly cheap)
5) Dolby Digital 5.1 and better if DTS decoder is included- The reason explains #4...since I believe that if you have an on board decoder for DD 5.1 and DTS...one should utilize the specified analog out(if you do not have the digital amps and decided to utilized the Utilitarian type of amplifiers) and not revert back to the usual 2 channel stereo.(if not why the heck did you choose the DTS track )
6) with S-Video out- for clarity ,component out is just a bonus since you'll be needing a TV with a component inputs too,,,hence an added expense.
Lastly, try to forget about the 96/24 audio capabilty, SACD,DVD Audio and the progressive scan( again to answer your question...briefly...it works so hard to remove lines, inasmuch that the picture quality becomes film like...that's progressive scan..but is it really that good??? check out your computer monitor..no lines right..that's progressive...however...TV's are interlaced hence you'll need a Digital TV which costs around PHp 89,000 cheapest to really appreciate this) since your primary objective is to first experience the far out qualities of the DVD player and the above mentioned capabilities are for those who have hobbies other than just enjoying the full capabilities of the DVD player.....since if you'll really be fair about it...it's really a lot and to fully appreciate it and make the most of your purchase.. I believe.. you should have a dedicated player.
Quoted from Alfie
-
TO continue...
Additional info regarding DTS.
When shopping for dvd player and you want dts decoding capability, you should carefully look at the logo/badge (usually) imprinted on the player's front panel because there are two types:
1.) DTS Digital Surround - this signifies that the player can read and decode dts encoded soundtrack on discs with dts sound format because it has built-in/internal dts decoder. Ibig sabihin, mayroong sound na lumalabas thru the 6 RCA connectors (analog) kung saan puwedeng ikonek yung active speaker system at mae-enjoy mo agad ang dts quality sound instantly. To make sure na may ganitong capability ang player, carry with you a good dvd disc with dts soundtrack (aside from the mandatory Dolby Digital ) and have it tested.
2.) DTS Digital Out - this signifies naman that the player can read dts encoded soundtrack but cannot decode/process it on its own so it must pass thru the a/v receiver with DTS decoding capability via digital connection (optical or coaxial) to enjoy dts quality sound output. Wala kang makukuhang output by using the analog out of the player and in the process you cannot immediately enjoy dts quality sound.
Tama po ba mga pinagsasasabi ko mga sir? ::) Any (violent) reactions? ;D
-
Now, here's a list of some of the popular dvd players here in Pinoy DVD:
1.) NextBase - 785, 783, 9000 series
2.) Skyworth - 2650, 3250
3.) Extreme 6500a
4.) Kebao - 8089, 6089, 3089
5.) Philips - 642, 733K, 727K, 626K etc.
6.) Pioneer - 575K, 566k, 656A and many others
You may check the threads on Generic or Branded DVD Players for more info.
-
Tanong po mga sir, may plano kasi kami ng father ko to setup na our own ht system. We currently have an LG 29" tv and Skyworth DVD-3250, ano po kaya ang magandang i-match na receiver and speakers para dito? Saka paano po ba malalaman yung akmang power rating nung receiver na kakailanganin for this setup?
Nakumbinse ko po kasi father ko to go for ht setup using receiver, kaso budget pa lamang namin ngayon ay 30T. Ano po ba ang mabibili namin sa amount na ito at ano po ang mga unang dapat bilhin?
Tenkyu po. :)
-
How much amplification do you need?
The amount of power you need will depend on a number of factors. The most important factors are your loudspeaker's sensitivity, the size of your room, and how much headroom you want in your system.
Loudspeaker Sensitivity.
A loudspeaker's sensitivity is a measure of how much sound the loudspeaker puts out for a given amount of power input from a receiver. Usually, it is expressed in terms of decibels (dB) sound pressure level (SPL) per 1 Watt of amplifier power measured at 1 meter from the speaker. Different loudspeaker designs will have different sensitivities. Frequently, it is understood that sensitivity is measure with 1 Watt of power input at 1 meter, so sensitivity is usually expressed as just "dB". In other words, sensitivity equals efficiency for the higher the number the louder the sound output will be given the same power input to the loudspeaker.
Halimbawa, merong 2 loudspeaker na may sensitivity na 90 dB at yung isa ay 87 dB parehong 8 ohms at meron ka namang receiver/amplifier rated 50W per channel into 8 ohms. Yung lakas nung sound na manggagaling sa 90 dB loudspeaker ay mas malakas kaysa dun sa 87 dB at the same volume level. Now, para mai-drive mo yung 87 dB loudspeaker na kasinglakas nung 90 dB, kailangan mo ng 100W na amplification (doble agad). This is why loudspeaker sensitivity is an important consideration when determining the power required from a receiver.
Note: For an 8-ohm loudspeaker, power input of 1 Watt corresponds to 2.83 Volts. But some loudspeaker manufacturers specify their 4-ohm loudspeaker's sensitivity with a 2.83 Volt signal, which corresponds to 2 Watts of amplification power. This gives a false impression that their 4-ohm loudspeaker is more sensitive than it really is.
-
Size of Your Room.
Gaya nga doon sa una ko nang nai-post, dapat isa sa mga consideration na dapat tingnan ay yung size of the room, larger rooms will require more amplification. For your guidance on determining the minimum amount of amplification needed, use the table below. Kung masyado ng malaki ang room size mo or gusto mo ng malakas na amplification, i-consider mo ang pagbili ng separate preamp and amp kasi separate amplifier can have power ratings of 200 Watts and above (all channels into 8 ohms, 20Hz-20kHz). Ang pinakamalakas na receiver to date (sa pagkakaalam ko) ay yung Denon AVR-5803 with 170 Watts tapos yung Onkyo TX-DS989.
Guideline for Minimum Receiver Power Amplification
(minimum recommended power, in Watts per channel) (v1.0)
Loudspeaker Room Size
Sensitivity Small Medium Large
[dB] (less than 2,000 cu. ft.) (between 2,000 (larger than 3,000 cu. ft.)
and 3,000 cu. ft.)
85 96 128 192
86 76 101 152
87 60 81 121
88 48 64 96
89 38 51 76
90 30 40 61
91 24 32 48
92 19 25 38
Note 1: To get the volume of your room, simply multiply the length, width and height of the room. V=L x W x H
Note 2: This table is based on the Home THX Program's recommendation of achieving a peak sound pressure level (SPL) of 105 dB, which can be achieved with 64 Watts into a loudspeaker sensitivity of 88 dB. Typical listening levels are usually in the range of 80 to 90 dB SPL.
Note 3: If your array of loudspeakers varies in terms of sensitivity, use the lowest sensitivity number from the front, center, or right loudspeakers. The sensitivity of the surround sound loudspeakers are secondary when it comes to figuring the minimum power amplification.
-
Headroom.
Tandaan mo na yung nasa table ay yung minimum lamang at kadalasan ay kailangan mo ng mas mataas na power rating para may allowance ka in case you move your home theater to a larger room or simply to have what is called headroom. Headroom is the power reserve that is above and beyond what you normally need in steady-state that allows your system to respond to very brief loud passages. This is particularly important if you're a big fan of action movies with lots of explosions. So yes, buy the most powerful receiver or amplifier you can afford.
-
Nakumbinse ko po kasi father ko to go for ht setup using receiver, kaso budget pa lamang namin ngayon ay 30T. Ano po ba ang mabibili namin sa amount na ito at ano po ang mga unang dapat bilhin?
Tenkyu po. :)
Now, this budget is almost enough depende kung anong equipment ang bibilhin mo especially the receiver. Kung gusto mo na agad na makumpleto setup mo or you’re not particular with the features of branded receivers mo I would suggest going for the Sakura and Dai-Ichi combination dahil maganda naman ang feedback ng members dito just check the Sakura thread.
Kung branded naman, after considering the amplification you needed for your room based on the table i've provided, tingnan mo naman yung mga features na gusto mo sa isang receiver (like 6.1 ba or 5.1, and others)
and try to scout for speakers at the stores I've mentioned in the previous posts in this thread. Malamang receiver and a pair of front speakers pa lang abutin budget mo but do try to scout firsts and balance your budget and options.
Enjoy! :D :D
-
Loudspeakers[
Loudspeakers have the toughest job in the home entertainment system. While source, processing and amplifier components like players, receivers and amps simply have electrical signals with which to contend, speakers are transducers-devices which convert electrical energy (the audio signal supplied by the amp) into mechanical energy (the music and sounds we hear). A good speaker will accurately do this job; reproducing sounds precisely as they were recorded, and efficiently; squeezing the most volume from the least power. What's more, there's no single way to build a fine loudspeaker. Unlike amps, pre-amps and processors, which all employ the same basic circuits but differ in terms of features and construction quality, the diversity of speaker designs is nearly as limitless as the speaker designer's imagination.
All loudspeakers make sound by moving air. Your amplifier powers the speaker's drivers-woofers for bass, tweeters for treble, and midrange for everything in between-which vibrate at frequencies and volumes to match the original recording. Since they all work the same, why don't all speakers look the same? Because everyone's needs are different. Do you want to make your home theater the focal point of your living room, or do you believe that speakers should be heard and not seen? Are thunderous bass and life-like volumes important, or is softer better? No matter: there's a perfect speaker for your room, budget and listening taste, once you know how to find it.
-
Loudspeaker systems:
Two-way systems: 2-way systems consist of a woofer(s) and a tweeter to reproduce the audible frequency spectrum. In 2 way systems it in not recommend to buy a system with a woofer larger than 7". Anything larger, in most cases, will not faithfully reproduce the midrange frequencies with realism, clarity and detail since a large driver (8" or greater) is designed primarily to produce bass frequencies below 200 Hz and is to slow to resonate frequencies with authority in the midrange band (200Hz - 4 KHz). There are many high quality 2 way systems employing 6 1/2" woofers or smaller that would sound outstanding throughout the entire frequency spectrum when properly mated with a quality powered subwoofer.
Monitor Audio Bronze Series B1
(http://www.monitoraudio.com/img/bronze/b1.gif)
Two & half way system: 2 1/2 way systems have recently entered the hi-fi market of loudspeaker design. This design employs 2 bass/mid-bass drivers usually identical in design and size and a tweeter. Usually the bottom woofer is crossed over to produce bass frequencies below 200Hz and the top woofer is crossed over to produce midrange frequencies between 200Hz - 4 KHz. The interesting thing about this design is that although the two woofers are crossed over at different frequencies, they acoustically couple to constructively interfere and enhance overall system bass response.
Monitor Audio Bronze Series B4
(http://www.monitoraudio.com/img/bronze/b4.gif)
Three way systems: 3 way systems employ a woofer(s) crossed over to produce bass frequencies, a midrange driver crossed over to produce mid frequencies and a tweeter crossed over to produce high frequencies. This type of system, if implemented correctly, can achieve full frequency response at very high fidelity with little or no need for an added powered subwoofer. However, it is recommended to purchase a quality 2 way bookshelf system over a cheaply designed 3 way system in the same price range as it will almost always offer better performance with only a possible sacrifice in bass response. If bass response becomes an issue with the bookshelf speakers, one can always add on a powered subwoofer when finances permit.
Monitor Audio Gold Reference GR60
(http://www.monitoraudio.com/img/gold/gold60_2.gif)
Woofers: Woofers are usually between 6 1/2" and 15" and are designed to produce frequencies from 20 - 500 Hz.
Midranges: Midrange drivers are usually between 2 1/2" - 6 1/2" in diameter and designed to reproduce frequencies between 200Hz and 4 KHz.
Tweeters: Tweeters are usually between 1/2" to 1" and are designed to reproduce frequencies between 2 KHz to above 20 KHz
Additional sources:
Loudspeaker Buying Guides (http://www.audioholics.com/techtips/buyingguides/loudspeakers/index.php)
Avoiding Speaker Gimmicks (http://www.audioholics.com/techtips/buyingguides/loudspeakers/speaker_gimmicks1.php)
-
Selecting Your Front/Stereo Speakers:
In addition to playing music, the left and right "main" channels of a soundtrack carry most of a motion picture's special effects and orchestral score. In order to excel at these tasks, the stereo pair must encompass wide frequency and broad volume swings (dynamic range), reproduce subtle recorded details, and be able to create a convincing "sound-stage" (the impression of three dimensions). When choosing main channel loudspeakers, play a handful of music and movie selections you know well. Listen to a solo vocalist. Does the "image" of that performer seem to float at the center of the soundstage (good), or can you trace the singer to the speakers (bad)? Next, try an acoustic guitar, violin or cello. You should hear natural, detailed string tone, as well as the resonance of the instrument's wooden body. Finish with an action flick. Are the effects-gunshots, explosions, etc-clearly reproduced, or do they become hard, flat and generally unpleasant as the volume increases? A good pair of loudspeakers should never sound "fatiguing."
Although listening is the ultimate test of a loudspeaker, there are other clues to quality. Rap your knuckles on the sides of the cabinet: a hollow thud indicates a poorly made enclosure that will probably degrade the sound. The weight of a speaker will give you a clue as to the materials and construction quality. The best speakers offer 5-way binding posts that offer the best possible connection with any type of cable.
Types:
Floor-standing Speakers
Floor-standing or "tower" loudspeakers are audio's equivalent of a big-block V-8 engine. Thanks to their large enclosures and increased size or number of drivers, floor-standers move enormous quantities of air, enabling them to have greater dynamic range (to play louder and cleaner) and produce deeper bass than other designs.
Acoustic Energy Aegis EVO3
(http://img14.photobucket.com/albums/v41/kimpao/aegis_evo3.gif)
Advantages - Extremely wide frequency response and dynamic range make floor-standers the choice where performance is the primary purchasing criteria. And while they tend to be large, many current models feature slender cabinets with small footprints, minimizing placement difficulties and visual impact. Also, since most of the world's best loudspeakers are towers, their manufacturers often lavish better parts or build quality on these "flagship" products.
Disadvantages - When space is at a premium, such as in a small apartment or smartly decorated room, towers simply might not fit. What's more, the prodigious output capabilities of such speakers mean that placement can be more critical-floor-standers should be located 2-3 feet from nearby walls for best performance. Finally, beware of "bargains": large cabinets are expensive to build. Unusually low pricing is often the result of construction shortcuts.
-
Powered Towers
A new and increasingly popular approach to loudspeaker design, "powered towers" are floor-standing speakers with the powered subwoofers built right in.
Polk Audio LSi25
(http://file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Virman/My%20Documents/Home%20Theater/Speakers/Polk%20Audio/Polk%20Audio%20--%20LSi15_files/lsi15.jpg)
Advantages - Powered towers offer the ultimate in dynamic range and frequency response. For 5.1 channel digital systems, the chore of selecting and placing the sub-woofer disappears. Also, since the sub-woofer and main speaker drivers are designed together, they can be optimized with each other for better performance and better "blending." There is no sense of discontinuity between midrange and bass as there often is with separate main/sub-woofer speaker systems. While not cheap, powered towers are often less expensive than purchasing separate speakers and subwoofers of comparable quality.
Disadvantages - Just make sure you have AC outlets near each speaker position. In very large rooms or those that have bass "suck-out" problems powered towers may need to be augmented with a separate subwoofer.
-
Bookshelf Speakers
With their compact cabinets, bookshelf speakers work where towers won't. Actually, the name "bookshelf" is unfortunate, since most such designs perform best when placed upon rigid stands, rather than tucked inside pieces of furniture. These speakers are not only more placement-friendly but, since small enclosures are more rigid, they produce less sonically degrading "box resonance" than all but the best towers.
Yamaha NS-333
(http://www.yamaha.co.jp/english/product/av/products/ht/img/ns333.gif)
Advantages - Usually modest in price as well as size, bookshelf speakers fit rooms and budgets that cannot accommodate a pair of towers. The small, solid cabinets are both versatile-able to excel in bookcases, atop shelves or hung on walls-and feature excellent midrange clarity. Caution: Many speakers use air tunnels or "ports" to improve efficiency and bass output. If you plan to place your speakers against a wall or inside a cabinet, choose a model whose port is located on the front panel, with the drivers.
Disadvantages - Reduced cabinet volume and driver surface area limit the dynamic and bass frequency range of bookshelf speakers, and can also compromise power handling and efficiency. Fortunately, the addition of a subwoofer can overcome these problems.
-
Subwoofer/Satellite Systems
When even the smallest bookshelf speakers are too visible to fit your lifestyle, a sub-woofer/satellite (sub/sat) system is the answer. By combining palm-sized satellites with a subwoofer designed specifically to work with them, sub/sat systems have become one of the most popular categories in home audio.
Klipsch Cinema 10 system
(http://www.soundandvisionmag.com/assets/image/1292003164712.jpg)
Advantages - The big advantages here are size, placement flexibility and cosmetics. The satellites can be placed just about anywhere, on a shelf, on the wall, in a cabinet or on a table. Most are small enough to fit in the palm of your hand and are hard to spot when placed alongside books and bric-a-brac. Some of this genre are very handsomely styled so that even when they are seen, they complement rather than detract from the look of the room. The subwoofer section can be placed out of sight - in a corner, behind furniture or under a table. Sub/sats also have certain performance advantages over more traditional designs. The slender front baffles cannot interfere with the drivers' dispersion, so imaging is absolutely first rate. The best of the genre produce a wide, deep soundstage that is in some ways superior to larger speakers. The subwoofer cabinet can be placed where bass performance is best (near wall or corner), so bass response is often awe-some. Most folks are agog when they hear such loud bass apparently coming from two tiny speakers.
Disadvantages - Those little satellites cannot reproduce bass of their own, making it tough to achieve a seamless blend between satellite and sub. There is often a "hole" or weak response in the lower midrange area (bottom range of a male voice) where the satellite's response leaves off and the subwoofer takes over. When evaluating sub/sat systems listen closely to male voices, if they sound "thin" the system suffers from this midrange suck-out problem. These systems' small drivers and enclosures compromise dynamic range and power handling. If you have a very large room to fill with sound, a sub/sat system may not be right for you. The other issue is bass response. Some of the so-called "subwoofers" in these systems don't reproduce the truly deep bass with authority. As always, listen before you buy and trust your ears.
-
In-Wall Speakers
For environments where box-type (tower or bookshelf) loudspeakers are unacceptable, in-wall speakers flush-mount in holes cut into the sheet-rock of your walls. Most models feature paintable grilles so you can disguise them, enabling them to virtually disappear.
Dai-Ichi PDR Series
(http://www.daiichi.ph/imageC003.gif)
Advantages - Since they consume no floor or bookshelf space and can be easily concealed, in-walls work when and where other speakers will not. If you plan to expand your system throughout your home, in-walls are a wonderful way to bring sound to additional rooms. They are also useful as rear surround speakers when the room configuration makes it impossible to properly place box speakers.
Disadvantages - In-walls cannot deliver the dynamic range and bass response of an equivalently priced box-type loudspeaker, and are less capable of great stereo imaging. Performance is inconsistent due to differences in-wall construction quality. Unless you are a do-it-yourselfer, professional installation will add to the cost of the system.
-
Selecting Your Center Speaker
As visual images move across the screen, their sonic images move with them. If the three front speakers are not well matched, the character of the sound will change as the sound moves from speaker to speaker. A fighter jet may sound more like a single engine plane as it passes through the center speaker. Its purpose is to keep sound anchored to the on-screen action, a good center channel speaker is crucial for a well-balanced home theater system.
(http://www.polkaudio.com/images/global/CenterPieChart.jpg)
Over 50% of a typical film's soundtrack is reproduced by the center speaker
How to choose your center speaker:
1.) Choose a center speaker that have the same sonic signature as your main speakers and one that uses identical drivers and tweeters as your front models. It should possess a similar timbre or tonal quality with the rest of your main speakers. The better your left and right speakers, the better the center needs to be to get life-like imaging.
2.) The next thing to look for is a center speaker that can keep up with your main left and right speakers. This means your center speaker should be about the same efficiency rating and be capable of playing as loud and handling about the same power as your main speakers. If your main speakers are somewhat large, you'll probably want a larger center speaker.
3.) It is advisable and much easier to choose your center speaker from the same manufacturer on the same model/series as your main speakers. Most manufacturers offer center channel speakers that are designed to blend perfectly with their other products, so you probably should stick to a single brand of speaker when assembling your system.
(http://www.monitoraudio.com/img/bronze/Bronzece.gif)
Monitor Audio Bronze Center
Deep bass response is not necessary in a center channel speaker. Both Dolby Pro Logic and Dolby Digital allow you to re-direct the bass information from the center channel to the front left and right or subwoofer channels (see you receiver or processor instructions for details on how to do this). If the center speaker has flat response to at least 80Hz, you're OK. If it goes lower than 80Hz, that's better.
You can find additional info here: Home Theater Speakers Basics (http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/S-zQ0XhrR7Vrd/learningcenter/home/speakers_hometheater.html)
-
Selecting Your Surround Speakers
(http://www.monitoraudio.com/img/gold/grfx2.gif)
Monitor Audio GRfx
1. Choose a location and a look. Surround speakers should be placed behind or to the sides of your listening position, two to three feet above a seated listener's head. Choose a location and style of speaker that fits the decor of the room. Decide whether you want to floor, stand or wall mount the speakers.
2. Investigate mounting options. If you've chosen on-wall mounting (most people do), find out whether the speakers you're considering have a means of wall mounting. Is a mounting bracket included at no charge? If not, are they available? At what price? Is the wall mount hardware obtrusive and/or ugly? Will the wall mount method make the speaker stick out far from the wall? Another option for surround speakers are flush-mount in-wall speakers. They offer very high performance and are completely unobtrusive.
3. Choose a performance level. In the early days of home theater, people believed that the performance of the surround speakers was unimportant. While it's true that Dolby Pro Logic decoding systems the rear channel contains little bass below 100Hz and no treble above 7kHz, that still leaves the most critical part of the audio bandwidth - the midrange. The human ear is most sensitive to coloration and errors in the midrange, so it makes little sense to use a speaker with poor sounding midrange. Remember, a crummy speaker is a crummy speaker, no matter what channel it's used for. The weakest speaker in the system sets the performance limits for the system as a whole.
4. Choose a surround speaker that's in the same league of performance as your front speakers. How good the surround speakers need to be ultimately depends on the type of surround processor you have or plan to have and what style of speaker fits the available space and meets your decorating needs.
5. Choose a "polar pattern". In shopping for surround speakers, you will undoubtedly hear a lot of talk about polar or dispersion patterns (dipolar or bipolar) - the pattern in which the loudspeaker distributes sound throughout the room.
6. Get a good demonstration. After reading all of the above, you're probably still not decided on which model to buy. The final judge should be the sound. Insist on two demonstrations before you buy. Listen to the surround speakers in a surround sound system. Also ask the salesperson to hook up the surround speakers to receive front channel information. Compare the sound of the models you are deciding between. Don't worry about ultra low bass performance, listen for natural midrange, smooth, detailed highs and an overall pleasing balance.
GLOSSARY (http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/S-zQ0XhrR7Vrd/learningcenter/home/speakers_glossary.html#bipole)
-
What is Dipole and Bipole and how are they different?
Dipole and Bipole refer to speakers that have drivers on opposite baffles. To put it crudely, they squirt sound out of both ends. If not done properly, dipolar or bipolar speakers may also exhibit frequency response problems due to phase cancellations (particularly true with narrow baffle designs).
In a Dipolar speaker, the two sets of speakers are out-of-phase with each other, while the drivers are one side are pushing, the opposite side is pulling. The result is that there is a "null" or a dead zone of sound in the area along the 90 degree axis of the speaker (see illustration below). Why is that good? When properly set up, a pair of dipole speakers used as surround speakers will provide a very open, enveloping rear effects soundstage without allowing you to pinpoint the location of the speakers themselves. That's a good thing. But for all this to work properly, the speakers need to be positioned "in-line" with the listening position as shown on the illustration below. If you are sitting out of the null area, the effect is ruined. What if you can't or don't want to place your surround speakers and listening position as required? That's where bipoles come in handy.
(http://www.polkaudio.com/images/global/dipole.gif)
In a Bipolar speaker, the two sets of drivers are in-phase with one another - both sides push air at the same time. The result is greater sound output where the dipolar speaker's null would be. Theoretically, a bipolar speaker approaches a 360° soundfield - it squirts sound all around the room. That's a good thing if you need to position your surround speakers behind your listening position or anywhere outside of the null area. Some people prefer the greater localization of bipolar speakers when used in digital discrete (Dolby Digital 5.1, DTS) systems.
(http://www.polkaudio.com/images/global/bipole.gif)
-
Choosing Your Subwoofer
There are a few things to keep in mind when selecting a powered subwoofer for your system.
1.) Select a location for your subwoofer and measure the space to see what fits.
2.) The better your front "main" speakers the better the subwoofer needs to be. If you have floor-standing speakers that already have good bass, select a subwoofer that is tuned to a very low frequency (25Hz below at -3dB) so that it produces bass that your main speakers can't reproduce efficiently.
3.) Size of room is also a factor - the bigger the room you want to fill, the better the subwoofer you'll need.
4.) If possible, listen with the front speakers you own or are intending to get. Does the subwoofer add a deep bass foundation or just boom? Listen with music as well as movie sources. Is the subwoofer "tight" and well defined with music or does it just add a vague rumble? Trust your ears.
Although the popularity of home theater has brought powered subwoofers into the limelight, they need to perform well when playing music. In many ways music is a tougher test of the performance of a subwoofer than any movie soundtrack. While there are many subs which can reproduce the loud, vague rumble of a rocket engine, only a very few can do that and convey all the depth and musicality of a plucked string bass. Before you buy any subwoofer, listen to it with music and movies. But the best advice of all: ignore the numbers and listen before you buy. Many people get hung up on "inches and watts," assuming that the larger the driver's diameter and the higher the power amp rating, the better the subwoofer. This is simply not so. Bigger doesn't necessarily make better. There are pros and cons with regards to driver size of the sub, choose the one that fits your current (and maybe planned future) setup.
Additional Infos in the following links:1.) How To Choose Subwoofers (http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/S-VwRMFVxpYps/learningcenter/home/speakers_subwoofers.html)
2.) Subwoofer Discussions (http://www.pinoydvd.com/board/index.php?topic=25900.0)
3.) High-end Subwoofers (http://www.pinoydvd.com/board/index.php?topic=1621.0)
4.) url=http://www.pinoydvd.com/board/index.php?topic=1612.380]Budget Subwoofers[/url]
-
Choosing Your Subwoofer
There are a few things to keep in mind when selecting a powered subwoofer for your system.
1.) Select a location for your subwoofer and measure the space to see what fits.
2.) The better your front "main" speakers the better the subwoofer needs to be. If you have floor-standing speakers that already have good bass, select a subwoofer that is tuned to a very low frequency (25Hz below at -3dB) so that it produces bass that your main speakers can't reproduce efficiently.
3.) Size of room is also a factor - the bigger the room you want to fill, the better the subwoofer you'll need.
4.) If possible, listen with the front speakers you own or are intending to get. Does the subwoofer add a deep bass foundation or just boom? Listen with music as well as movie sources. Is the subwoofer "tight" and well defined with music or does it just add a vague rumble? Trust your ears.
Although the popularity of home theater has brought powered subwoofers into the limelight, they need to perform well when playing music. In many ways music is a tougher test of the performance of a subwoofer than any movie soundtrack. While there are many subs which can reproduce the loud, vague rumble of a rocket engine, only a very few can do that and convey all the depth and musicality of a plucked string bass. Before you buy any subwoofer, listen to it with music and movies. But the best advice of all: ignore the numbers and listen before you buy. Many people get hung up on "inches and watts," assuming that the larger the driver's diameter and the higher the power amp rating, the better the subwoofer. This is simply not so. Bigger doesn't necessarily make better. There are pros and cons with regards to driver size of the sub, choose the one that fits your current (and maybe planned future) setup.
Additional Infos in the following links:
1.) How To Choose Subwoofers (http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/S-VwRMFVxpYps/learningcenter/home/speakers_subwoofers.html)
2.) Subwoofer Discussions (http://www.pinoydvd.com/board/index.php?topic=25900.0)
3.) High-end Subwoofers (http://www.pinoydvd.com/board/index.php?topic=1621.0)
4.) Budget Subwoofers (http://www.pinoydvd.com/board/index.php?topic=1612.380)
-
Subwoofer Software Suggestions
1.) Stereophile Test CD #1 ($6.95+shipping from stereophile.com click on "recordings") and listen for warble tones.
2.) Avia Guide To Home Theater calibration DVD Audio and Video test tones and set up aids.
3.) Patricia Barber Café Blue CD Blue Note cuts 1,8,9. Listen for tight musical bass with no "boominess," good "plucky" acoustic bass.
4.) Mighty Sam McClain "Give It Up To Love" CD Use the Audioquest XRCD version for best sound quality, cut 1. Good deep male vocal and bottom end, excels in the low mid-range.
5.) Diana Krall "All For You" CD cuts 1 & 7. Natural acoustic piano and vocals, well-recorded and up-tempo.
Below are quoted from sir av_phile1:
(1) The exploding depth charges in the movie U-571 comes to mind. They're quite deep. Have heard them as well and quite convincing in my set-up. Also the canon shots in Master and Commander.
(2) The Eagle's Hell Freezes Over live concert in DTS have some deep and powerfull bass lines.
(3) The stampeding herd of buffalos(?) in Lion King has some pretty earth shaking bass.
(4) The pod races in Star Wars 1: The Phantom Menace are said to contain frequencies down to 10Hz!!!
(5) Any DTS sampler I suppose.
(6) A test CD with a sweep of LF from 100hz down to 10Hz. Alternatively, the THX section in some THX-certified DVDs have a low freq sweep in the audio test section to test the integration between mains and sub.
-
Take a moment to cast your vote for this thread. Thank you! :)
-
Speaker Placement Suggestions
Common Sense and Livability
No matter what we say here regarding room treatment and speaker positioning, keep in mind that a home theater system is supposed to enhance your life, not take it over. If any of our advice conflicts with common sense, or your sense of aesthetics (or would interfere with the normal function of the room) just ignore us. What difference does it make if your system sounds 5% better when you're always bumping into an ill-placed speaker? Do what makes sense.
General Home Theater
If possible, place the five mid/high (non-subwoofer) speakers on the circumference of an imaginary circle whose center point is the main (your) listening position (figure below). At very least, left, right and center speakers should be the same distance from your main listening position. Find the placement that makes the main speakers sound best, then relocate the other components (seating position, center speaker/TV, and surround speakers) to fit the equal distance rule.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v327/vircor/spkrplcmnt1.jpg)
If you can make this work, fine. But if practical or aesthetic considerations get in the way, don't worry, the "time delay" or "speaker distance" function of your surround processor or receiver will compensate.
Stereo (main) Speakers
Since the left and right front channels are responsible for bringing music as well as movies to life, the "stereo pair" requires the most careful setup. For best performance, the speakers should be placed at least two feet from room boundaries, such as large pieces of furniture, walls and especially corners (see figure below). Placing a speaker closer to room boundaries increases bass, but may result in a "boomy" or bass-heavy sound and degradation of stereo imaging. Try varying the speakers' distance from the rear walls, side walls, and corners until the best balance between low frequency extension and clarity is achieved. If your system has a subwoofer, chose a main speaker placement that provides the best imaging and most natural midrange balance, usually far from room boundaries. If you cannot get the speakers at least two feet from the room boundary, treat the adjacent room boundaries with absorbing or diffusing material.
Place the main speakers at least a few inches in front of the front of your TV. Unless a large projection screen monopolizes your wall, don't place the speakers too close to the sides of your television, as such placement constricts the width of the stereo soundstage.
Palm-sized satellite/subwoofer speakers are designed to provide good sound when placed on a wall and often come with wall mounting brackets. But, as with other types of speakers, you should avoid placing the satellites within two feet of side walls. Since wall mounting satellites precludes placing them in front of the TV screen, place wall mounted satellites higher than the top of the TV.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v327/vircor/spkrplcmnt2.jpg)
Further placement "tweaking" - To minimize the effects of standing waves, use as a guideline the "Rule of Odds." Measure the width of the "front" wall (the wall the front speakers are on) and the length of your room and divide any odd number (3,5,7,9 etc.).
For example, let's say your room is 144 inches wide by 192 inches long. Divide the room width by three and get 48". Now divide the room length by 3 and get 64". These calculations suggest placing the speakers 64 inches or 5'4", from the "front" wall, 48" from the side walls and 48" apart. For most people 5.4" is too far into the room and 48" is too close together to support a wide stereo image. Keep dividing your room dimensions by ever larger odd numbers until you come up with a placement that makes sense for you.
To continue our example, divide the length by 5 and you get 38.4", a more workable distance. Divide the width by 5 and get 28.8". So in this example a practical speaker placement that will yield good a result is 28.8" from each side wall and 38.4" from the "front" wall.
Always use the center of the woofer as your reference point. If you calculate that your speaker should be 3 feet from the side wall, measure 3 feet from the wall to the center of the woofer cone.
Avoid symmetrical placement. A speakers' distance from the front wall should not be within 33% of he distance from the side walls. If the speakers are 24" from the side walls, place them at least 32" from the front wall. In our example, we did not divide room length by 7 as that would have placed the speakers 27.5" from the front wall, too close to the 28.8" side-wall distance.
Speaker Height - With floor-standing speakers, assume that the designers have mounted all drivers at the proper distance above the ground. Bookshelf and satellite systems, on the other hand, must be elevated to bring the tweeter to "seated ear level"; that is, the tweeters should occupy the same height as the listeners' ears when those listeners are sitting. This can be accomplished either by placing the speakers on dedicated stands, or mounting them on a shelf or wall bracket. If the shelf is well above seated ear level, use a door stop wedge under the back edge of the speaker cabinet to point the speaker slightly downward (be careful not to make the angle so severe as to make the speaker unstable). On-wall speakers often have brackets (supplied or optional) that allow aiming of the speakers.
Aiming - Once the speakers have been properly positioned, they should be adjusted to provide the sharpest possible image. This is accomplished by a process known as "toe-in." Your goal is to obtain the sharpest possible image by aiming the speakers at the listener, as if you were focusing binoculars on a distant object. Start with the speakers pointing straight ahead, while listening to a CD of a solo vocalist. Rotate each speaker a couple of degrees inward, toward the listening position, until the voice seems to come from a point directly between the speakers, rather than from the speakers themselves. But beware: too much toe-in will compromise the natural width of the soundstage. Try to find the best balance between image focus and soundstage width.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v327/vircor/spkrplcmnt3.jpg)
Listening Position - Your listening position will also influence the sound of your system. The best spot is at two-thirds of the length of the room. If that isn't practical, continue to divide by odd numbers as you did to determine speaker placement. In many rooms, the main listening position is on a couch up against the back wall. This position will yield very loud, and possibly boomy bass. In this case, be sure to place your main speakers and subwoofer as far away from wall surfaces as is practical.
Center Channel - Since the main purpose of a center channel loudspeaker is to fix all sounds associated with on-screen action to the screen, this speaker needs to be as close as possible to your television, either directly above or below it. Just like the stereo pair, the center channel sounds best when its tweeter is mounted at seated ear level; unfortunately, this position is normally occupied by the television itself. No problem: you can achieve proper treble balance by tilting the speaker up (if it's below the screen) or down (if it's above) to aim the tweeter directly at the audience. Using rubber feet of different thickness, raise or lower the front of the speaker until you hear the most extended and detailed high frequencies.
Surround Speakers - Unlike the front three speakers, that must produce sharply focused images, the job of surround channels is to envelop the audience in diffused sound known as "ambience." To excel at this job, rear speakers should not (with the exception of localized 5.1 channel effects) call attention to themselves as sources of sound.
For these reasons, surround speakers work best when elevated at least two feet above the seated listeners' heads (a height of six to seven feet above the ground is considered normal), and mounted on the side walls in line with or slightly behind the audience. If you are using front-firing speakers, they should face each other so that the sound is projected over the listeners' heads.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v327/vircor/spkrplcmnt4.jpg)
If your seating area adjoins the rear wall, or if you cannot place speakers on the side wall, you'll have to position the speakers on the rear wall. In this case, bi-directional (bi- or di-pole) speakers are recommended, since they will produce the most diffuse effect. If you use front-firing speakers, do not aim them at the audience as one would a front speaker, but point them straight forward so the sound projects past the audience. Another option is to mount in-wall speakers in the ceiling, aiming them downward at the listening area.
Subwoofer - Low frequencies (below about 80 Hz) are non-directional, which means that, in theory, a subwoofer should sound the same whether it is located at the front, rear or sides of the audience. In reality, however, bass quantity and quality are influenced by subwoofer placement. As with the stereo pair, moving the speaker closer to room boundaries increases bass, while moving it into the room reduces output. For the greatest amount of bass output, place the sub in or near a corner of the room.
If you have a standing wave problem and the bass is very uneven throughout the room (especially at your listening position), try this old trick. Place the subwoofer at your main listening position (move the chair). Play a movie or CD with deep, sustained bass. Walk around the front half of the room until you find the spot with the best bass. Place the subwoofer there. Now you can have your chair back.
To some extent, you can compensate for room acoustics by adjusting the subwoofer's level control, but it's still advisable to experiment with various placements. Play CDs and movie soundtracks with extensive bass content, and fine tune the volume until you achieve a seamless blend with the main channels. If your sub is equipped with an adjustable crossover and your stereo speakers have sufficient low bass capability, try lowering the frequency to the 70-80 Hz region. Use the lowest frequency setting that combines powerful bass with the best stereo image and a smooth transition to the main speakers. Finally, use the phase control to maximize bass output: if your subwoofer is placed along the same wall as your front channels, set the phase to 0 degrees, if it is behind the listening position, try 180 degrees. It helps to hear phase differences if you sit in your listening position while a friend switches back and forth. As always, experiment until you find the setting that delivers the clearest and deepest response.
-
Happy new year! I'm back. ;D
-
Inputs regarding the topic are welcome. ;)
-
Subwoofer Placement Suggestions
The Goal
"It's relatively easy to put a subwoofer into your system and hear more bass. What's difficult is making the subwoofer's bass integrate with the sound of your main speakers…A well-integrated subwoofer produces a seamless sound, no boomy thump, and natural reproduction of music. A poorly integrated subwoofer will sound thick, heavy boomy, and unnatural, calling attention to the fact that you have smaller speakers reproducing the frequency spectrum from the midrange up, and the big subwoofer putting out low bass."
Positioning
Room acoustics have an enormous impact on the sound of speakers, including subwoofers. A phenomenon called "standing waves" makes bass response uneven from place to place in your room. To experience this for yourself, put on a CD with a strong, consistent bass line. Notice how the volume of the bass goes up and down as you move around the room. Stand in one place and then squat down-you will probably notice that the bass changes in the vertical plane as well!
Because the subwoofer's location affects how standing waves are created, the first step to getting accurate bass response is finding the right spots for your subwoofer and your listening position. We'll share a few guidelines that may be helpful, but in the long run nothing beats trial, error and your own two ears.
Stick It In The Corner-
This is the advice most often given and it certainly will yield loud bass. But corner mounting may make the woofer sound "one note-ey," and boomy on music. If lack of bass volume is your biggest subwoofer problem, this may be the answer for you.
Avoid Sitting Up Against the Wall-
Bass waves build up and "hang out" at room boundaries (walls). Your system will sound thick and heavy when your listening chair is up against a wall. If you must sit against the wall because of furniture layout, place your subwoofer away from walls and corners.
Avoid Symmetrical Placement-
"Avoid putting the subwoofer the same distance from two walls. For example, if you have a 20' wide room, don't put the subwoofer 10' from each wall. Similarly, don't put the subwoofer near a corner and equidistant from the side and rear walls. Instead, stagger the distances to each wall."
Put The Subwoofer As Close To The Main Speakers As Possible-
Even though bass sounds are non-localizable, cabinet resonance and other factors conspire to make this less true in practice than in theory. It'll be much easier to get seamless blending between sub and main speakers if they are on the same side of the room. If possible, put the subwoofer behind the plane of the main speakers. At very least, keep the subwoofer in the front half of the room.
Here's An Old Trick-
Put your woofer in the same spot as your listening position. It's best to raise the subwoofer off the ground to seated ear height (use a sturdy, non-resonant platform). "Play a piece of music with an ascending and descending bass line such as a 'walking' bass in straight-ahead jazz [see recording suggestions]. Crawl around the floor on your hands and knees…until you find the spot where the bass sounds smoothest, and where each bass note has about the same volume and clarity. Avoid positions where some notes 'hang' longer and/or sound slower or thicker than others. When you've determined where the bass sounds best, put the subwoofer there."
Use Two Subwoofers-
Using two asymmetrically placed subs will minimize the effects of standing waves in your room, yielding smoother bass response (as well as better dynamic range). But don't run out and buy another sub just yet. Get the sub you have now to sound its best before spending more money. You may be perfectly happy with just one sub once you've tried our suggestions.
-
sir gud day.
can you give any suggestions on what test cds to use to check how low can your sub go... and what instrument you can use to see how low it goes?
thanks sir..
btw, you got some neat postings here huh, really helped us, newbies alot! thanks sir VIRCOR!
-
Subwoofer Software Suggestions
1.) Stereophile Test CD #1 and listen for warble tones.
2.) Avia Guide To Home Theater calibration DVD Audio and Video test tones and set up aids.
3.) Patricia Barber Café Blue CD Blue Note cuts 1,8,9. Listen for tight musical bass with no "boominess," good "plucky" acoustic bass.
4.) Mighty Sam McClain "Give It Up To Love" CD Use the Audioquest XRCD version for best sound quality, cut 1. Good deep male vocal and bottom end, excels in the low mid-range.
5.) Diana Krall "All For You" CD cuts 1 & 7. Natural acoustic piano and vocals, well-recorded and up-tempo.
Below are quoted from sir av_phile1:
(1) The exploding depth charges in the movie U-571 comes to mind. They're quite deep. Have heard them as well and quite convincing in my set-up. Also the canon shots in Master and Commander.
(2) The Eagle's Hell Freezes Over live concert in DTS have some deep and powerfull bass lines.
(3) The stampeding herd of buffalos(?) in Lion King has some pretty earth shaking bass.
(4) The pod races in Star Wars 1: The Phantom Menace are said to contain frequencies down to 10Hz!!!
(5) Any DTS sampler I suppose.
(6) A test CD with a sweep of LF from 100hz down to 10Hz. Alternatively, the THX section in some THX-certified DVDs have a low freq sweep in the audio test section to test the integration between mains and sub.
-
thanks alot sir!
-
what's up? ;D
-
From the Avsforum: Everything you need to know about setting up your own home theater including diy acoustic treatment, equipment, interconnects, subwoofer management etc etc...
Home Theater 101 (http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=824554)
-
checked the site....very informative and comprehensive...!! thnx sir ET414...
-
checked the site....very informative and comprehensive...!! thnx sir ET414...
you canfind a lot like this online, but you have to spend considerable amount of your time.. ::)
-
you canfind a lot like this online, but you have to spend considerable amount of your time.. ::)
oo nga sir...... i totally agree with you.... but just like u said, u need a considerable amount of time which some people (like myself) don't have, hehehehehe.... kaya nga am very thankful to our fellow members who take time in posting sites like this.... mabuhay ang mga taga PDVD!!!
-
"A device that absorbs low frequencies is called a bass trap. Although it may seem counter-intuitive, adding bass traps to a room usually increases the amount of bass produced by loudspeakers and musical instruments. When the cancellations caused by reflections are reduced, the most noticeable effect is increasing the bass level and making the low frequency response more uniform. As with listening rooms, bass traps are also useful in studio recording rooms for the same reasons - to flatten the response of instruments captured by microphones and, with large studios, to improve the acoustics by reducing the low frequency reverb decay time which makes the music sound more clear."
Link: http://www.ethanwiner.com/acoustics.html (http://www.ethanwiner.com/acoustics.html)
Just sharing... cheers! :D
-
A compilation, by me, which can hopefully help many people regarding speakers, subwoofers and receivers.
Home theater guide roundup (April 26, 2009) (http://www.eclecticelectronics.net/ht-home-theater/home-theater-guide-roundup-april-26-2009/)
Date is April 26 because audience of the site is mostly from the US. :)
Would greatly appreciate feedback from those who have read the guide.
-
[ Reserved placeholder for possible future updates/additional information ]
-
nice stuff sir blued888, very helpful indeed! :)
-
one of the best threads here at pdvd. up for you. :)
-
Hi, I'm planning to setup my first HT and only planning to buy the receiver and front speakers first. I'm not really in a hurry to complete all and of course, not enough budget. Do you think I should buy the center speaker right away also? Thanks
-
Hi, I'm planning to setup my first HT and only planning to buy the receiver and front speakers first. I'm not really in a hurry to complete all and of course, not enough budget. Do you think I should buy the center speaker right away also? Thanks
imho sir rni, you should buy the timbre matching center when you decide to buy your two fronts already, whether the fronts are bookshelves or floorstanders. the center handles all the dialogue of the movie, and having your fronts handle that together with the effects might not be ideal. you can defer getting the surrounds but try to get the 3 fronts right away. :)
goodluck sir!
-
Hi, I'm planning to setup my first HT and only planning to buy the receiver and front speakers first. I'm not really in a hurry to complete all and of course, not enough budget. Do you think I should buy the center speaker right away also? Thanks
IMO, you can opt to get the center at a later date since you'll be able to run a "phantom center" with your two fronts.
-
Thanks for all the replies sirs. I've decided that I'll get a center when I tried this evening listening to two fronts only. Way better to have a center indeed.
-
Just curious, how do you set the volume of your fronts and center? Equal volume? Center is louder?
-
Just curious, how do you set the volume of your fronts and center? Equal volume? Center is louder?
for new receivers like denon and onkyo, they have the audyssey room correction tool that does the calibration of the speakers from eq, to distances and volume levels. and i must say it is a very accurate and useful tool. but looking at the setting the audyssey did to my room, it did increase the level for my center with respect to my two floorstanding fronts. but i guess it really should be done with respect to correct calibration whether the automatic method or manual method using the old trusty ruler and spl meter. ;D
-
Thanks! Got the Onkyo 607 and I still have to read the manual so I'm still not familiar with this Audyssey tool.
-
Here is a guide
http://www.dvdtown.com/news/sensibly-sound-suggestions-a-guide-to-home-theater-sound-setup/6852
-
great read, thanks for posting this bro. :)
-
Really nice thread!!!
I own a decent sounding (for me) HTIB when I bought my Plasma TV but I got hooked into planning to build my own HT set-up when I got the chance to listen to an acquaintance's self built HT.
The way I see it ( correct me if I'm wrong), the first thing that I need to buy will be the A/V receiver, fronts and center speaker. I already have a DVD player and TV to go with it.
Budget is my primary concern because of other expenses. Can you recommend a way I can have all three components with a budget of 30K? Is it too much or too little? What should be the minimum?
Thanks in advance. I'm very new to this so please bear with me.
-
Very informative topic! Will try the Sakura-Daichi set up muna, tight budget e...heard that the Euro 8 floorstanders by Daichi creates an impression and swak sa mga budget concious HT hobbyist, where kaya in particular sa Raon meron nito? gusto kong magcanvas bukas ::)
-
bossing tanong ko lang po bat para mas mataas ang watts output ng mga HTIB like nung onkyo hts6200 na 130w/channel tapos yung seperate na reciever like onkyo 607 90w/channel?
naguguluhan kasi me kung bili nalang me ng HTIB na onkyo hts6200 tapos paltan ko nalang yung front speakers nya ng wharfedale diamond 9.6 eto specs nya http://wharfedale.co.uk/Products/Product/tabid/78/PID/10/CID/52/language/en-GB/Default.aspx#detail
or buo me ng HT onkyo 607 + wharfedale diamond series set
front
http://wharfedale.co.uk/Products/Product/tabid/78/PID/10/CID/52/language/en-GB/Default.aspx#detail
center
http://wharfedale.co.uk/Products/Product/tabid/78/PID/10/CID/58/language/en-GB/Default.aspx#detail
rear/sorround
http://wharfedale.co.uk/Products/Product/tabid/78/PID/10/CID/57/language/en-GB/Default.aspx#detail
sub
http://wharfedale.co.uk/Products/Product/tabid/78/PID/10/CID/53/language/en-GB/Default.aspx#detail
comment nalang po kayo master TIA
-
Good post sir...KUDOS
-
hi guys. did anyone ever tried matching up any yamaha av receiver with polk audio bookshelf speaker (LSi series). maganda ba for a small room?
-
Good Morning Sir/s, hope you find the time to entertain this noob here :).
I would just like to know your inputs/advice as I am considering to purchase/use an Altec Lansing VS4121 or Altec Octane7 for a basic 2.1 speaker set-up to go with my pioneer dvd player-LG Plasma set-up.
I understand that originally these are PC/Laptop/MP speakers by nature but I'm currently on a budget and considering I only plan to put them in a small-medium sized room, I figure I won't need anything too powerful naman to fill it up with sound while watching movies.
I also know of Altec's MX and Expressionist lines which could have been more suitable for my intended use but sadly stocks here are very hard to come by plus they cost twice as much than the VS and Octane7 series. Has anyone tried using their VS or Octane7s with their DVD Players? Will there be any negative effects on the dvd-tv set-up in the long run? ???
Currently, I tried plugging my Creative 2.1 desktop speakers/Sub to my dvd player (via 3.5-RCA conversion cables) while my dvd's hdmi is plugged to the tv. Tried running tokyo drift's race scenes and no problems so far.
Would the experts advice against this kind of set-up? ??? What are the cons of this set-up po?
Hoping to get your inputs and suggestions mga Sir/s before I go out and purchase the VS or Octane7s. ;D
Thanks in advance. ;D
-
Good Morning Sir/s, hope you find the time to entertain this noob here :).
I would just like to know your inputs/advice as I am considering to purchase/use an Altec Lansing VS4121 or Altec Octane7 for a basic 2.1 speaker set-up to go with my pioneer dvd player-LG Plasma set-up.
I understand that originally these are PC/Laptop/MP speakers by nature but I'm currently on a budget and considering I only plan to put them in a small-medium sized room, I figure I won't need anything too powerful naman to fill it up with sound while watching movies.
I also know of Altec's MX and Expressionist lines which could have been more suitable for my intended use but sadly stocks here are very hard to come by plus they cost twice as much than the VS and Octane7 series. Has anyone tried using their VS or Octane7s with their DVD Players? Will there be any negative effects on the dvd-tv set-up in the long run? ???
Currently, I tried plugging my Creative 2.1 desktop speakers/Sub to my dvd player (via 3.5-RCA conversion cables) while my dvd's hdmi is plugged to the tv. Tried running tokyo drift's race scenes and no problems so far.
Would the experts advice against this kind of set-up? ??? What are the cons of this set-up po?
Hoping to get your inputs and suggestions mga Sir/s before I go out and purchase the VS or Octane7s. ;D
Thanks in advance. ;D
Managed to audition both Altec models but the Octane 7 tends to have distortion when the volume is set at more than half. I personally would not recommend Octane 7 plus its highs are a bit "muddy" I would go for the Logitech z623 as it has a more balanced mids and highs. Its bass is soft and deep.
-
tanong lang po,
in choosing AVR, is it necessary na it can decode DTS/DOLBY (etc.) if im using XTreamer or maybe my PC thru HDMI and/or OPTICAL of w/c both can decode DD and DTS? TIA
-
hi im justine from pampanga and im planning of setting up my home theater and planning to purchase some set up or packages available, here are my shortlist of 5.1 set up.
-yamaha vs-x367 + nsp110b = total of 25k
-pioneer rxv820k + s-hs100 (not so sure) = total of 28k
and have been checking on their brochures and specs online.
any info that you can add would be helpful.thank you
-
hi im justine from pampanga and im planning of setting up my home theater and planning to purchase some set up or packages available, here are my shortlist of 5.1 set up.
-yamaha vs-x367 + nsp110b = total of 25k
-pioneer rxv820k + s-hs100 (not so sure) = total of 28k
and have been checking on their brochures and specs online.
any info that you can add would be helpful.thank you
Welcome to PinoyDVD Sir Justine. I can only comment on the Yamaha setup. if you can get the Yamaha RXV467 that would be better if you can stretch your budget a bit. The RXV367 is made in China while RX467 is made in Malaysia. The later models of Yamahas were shifted to Malaysia for production. Malaysian models have better cooling systems than the ones from China. Also Yamaha RX471 is coming in so you might also want to check out its features. Make sure to audition the receiver with your chosen speakers and bring your own music and movie files.
-
good morning sir,
just bought 32" LED tv with home theater speakers and buy hdmi cable having hard time to set up.will the home theater function too on tv broadcast pls help need advise thanks.
-
good morning sir,
just bought 32" LED tv with home theater speakers and buy hdmi cable having hard time to set up.will the home theater function too on tv broadcast pls help need advise thanks.
you mean home theater speakers does it comes also with receiver/amp?. If so, just connect audio cable L/R from TV to amp's aux or any audio input then you're good to go.. :)
-
This is a Great thread! Thumbs up to all of you here. This helps a lot of people who are planning to
setup their own ht systems at home. God bless you. :)
-
Wow! Its been too long since my last visit to this wonderful site. I can't believe that this thread is still up.
It's nice to be back. :)
-
hi masters, help po :( i'm planning to install a small hts in my sala, want to play pc and dvds also.
i was thinking of this setup
ktc 32" tv -> receiver (or htsib) -> speakers
then:
pc -> receiver (walang htsib na may 5.1 na in :( unless u can recommend?) -> speakers.
comments/help/advise naman sirs? thanks! :)
-
Hi mga bossing, newbie po about HT. meron po kasi ako nabili devant dv-5160, eto po link -http://www.devanttv.com/products/speakers/dv-5160#overview
sinubukan ko po i-connect sa old nextbase NB-895 dvd player thru 5.1 channel.
problem po, walang sound sa rear(L & R) at sa center speaker, naka set naman yung speaker ng player sa 5.1 ch. ano po kaya problem? yung player? is it something about DTS decoding?
salamat po
-
Hi!
I'm a newbie. I have a Samsung PS43E450. I would like to set up a Home theater system. Space is around
100sq. What are the gadgets that i need to watch (many) diff movies with very nice sounds and pictures.
If i have a budget of 30-40k,what would you recommend?
Thanks,
elninyo
-
Hi!
I'm a newbie. I have a Samsung PS43E450. I would like to set up a Home theater system. Space is around
100sq. What are the gadgets that i need to watch (many) diff movies with very nice sounds and pictures.
If i have a budget of 30-40k,what would you recommend?
Thanks,
elninyo
100 sqm? or sqft? that's a lot of space to cover if in meters..gadgets? if you have none and you only have a display..and if you are on a budget..get a media player instead of blu-ray..get 2nd hand amp/receiver or wait for promos since sometimes some yamaha receivers drop as low as 10k..you may check wharfedale speakers or check some pre-owned speakers at the market section..
-
Hi guys, may I seek for your advise?
We are setting up our home theater max budget now 80,000. We have decided to get a 47LA6910 3D/ SmartTV, it costs 55,000 just the unit. Now we're left with 25,000 for the sounds, player, accessories, misc.
Naisip namin na baka kulang ang budget for sounds so we're considering a 42" instead of 47" since they have 15,000 difference to give more allowance for the sounds, player, misc.
So kung kukuha na lang kame ng 42" 3D/ SmartTV, we still have 40,000 for the rest. By the way the area is about 11.5 sqm, about 8ft distance from the TV.
Ano po kaya ang pwede namin mabili sa 40,000 considering we want a nice sound to compliment the TV and I'm sure we need a player as well and the cables.
Thanks in advance.
-
Good day guys..actually these questions are for my friend's set up (not a pdvd member)...he's planning to have 2 in 1 set up ( HT/Audio)..He wants to have a separate tube preamp for the music and a receiver for HT, at the same time using the power amp section of receiver to compliment the tube preamp for music without purchasing a dedicated power amp..doing this is possible i think when the receiver have 'main-in' section which upon checking, not already available in latest versions of receivers. or maybe di ko lang alam o nacheck lahat ng brands...any suggestions or options on this?salamat po...
-
If budget permits, i would rather buy a dedicated stereo power amp for audio, because he can also use it for HT naman via the preamp output of the AVR.
-
^thanks sir..cguro pwede rin integrated tube amp nalng for music and receiver sa ht. di naman daw kalakihan ang room so cguro pwede na ganitong set up para makatipid...
-
Dear All:
Any of our numerous forum gurus/expert offer "free" HT set up advises? Yun bang we can invite them over for correct posisitoning of speakers, cable management, TV or projector calibration and others?
If none, can anyone recommend a professional? I just find it frustrating sa hit and miss diskarte ko, :-).
Thanks
Elvis