Author Topic: Speaker Modification / Upgrade (Read 78076 times)

ganicru · « **Reply #60 on:** Sep 27, 2005 at 10:43 AM »

I heard balanced and neutral sound coming from my 602 when biwired using two runs of xlo er11. I used to replaced the bridge with shotgunned 2 runs of xlo er11 and listened long enough. I am more satisfied with biwire set up using the same sets of wire (xlo er11). just my ears.

kt · « **Reply #61 on:** Sep 27, 2005 at 11:30 AM »

tnx for the reply guys!

bro new_age! wat gauge did u use as wire jumpers? so in your case, u used a 5in long wire as your jumper then just single wired the speakers right? where did u single wire them? at the HF or LF? wud it matter where u hook your wires in a single wire setup? tnx bro!

old_age · « **Reply #62 on:** Sep 27, 2005 at 07:56 PM »

Hey kt,

right. the 5 inch jumper ecosse cs2.3 is gauge 14 hooked the HF and LF for + and other HF and LF for the -, wired singly with 2.5 meters of Ixos 6006 to the amp. Nice combination for me at least, with the Mission.... complimenting benefits from the smoothness and rounded sound of the Ecosse and the slam and deep bass of the Ixos 6006.

enjoy dude!

KEN · « **Reply #63 on:** Sep 27, 2005 at 09:19 PM »

hi just want to share this...

finally I just completed my testing/evaluation of my experiment, I replaced both the tweeter and the mid/woofer
internal wiring of my speaker(B&W 602s3) and result was not to my liking. HF is Ok but i feel I loss something on LF department or baka mabilis lang siguro talaga kaya parang nawala...

Any one tried using magnetic wire for the speaker internal wiring ? I'm thinking of experimenting on this material. Kindly post your comments/feed back on this.

TIA

av_phile1 · « **Reply #64 on:** Sep 28, 2005 at 11:00 AM »

I see no problem using magnet wire. That's solid wire, right? Have you ever noticed that the voice coil winding in a driver is also made of solid magnet wire?

kt · « **Reply #65 on:** Sep 28, 2005 at 11:03 AM »

tnx for the info bro new_age! i'll try it on my setup!

old_age · « **Reply #66 on:** Sep 28, 2005 at 07:32 PM »

Great kt!

it's not that expensive afterall!

Good luck and enjoy!

KEN · « **Reply #67 on:** Sep 28, 2005 at 10:54 PM »

Quote from: av_phile1 on Sep 28, 2005 at 11:00 AM

I see no problem using magnet wire. That's solid wire, right? Have you ever noticed that the voice coil winding in a driver is also made of solid magnet wire?

Yup sir AV solid wire... I'm still looking for the right size kasi kalimitan nakita ko medyo maliliit. Probably this weekend ay ma gagawa ko na...

kt · « **Reply #68 on:** Sep 29, 2005 at 11:40 AM »

bro new_age i tried it already! n less than 5" lang of wire pala coz short lang yung distance ng terminals ng MS. i just tried it sa front L&R ko. i'll try it also sa center ko. well i havent really noticed any big change...or is it just my ears! hehe

i just tried it sa stereo n set the fronts to large n tested lang sa audio cd kasi... kaw bro howd u notice the change ba agad?

bumblebee · « **Reply #69 on:** Sep 29, 2005 at 12:00 PM »

Before anything else, this is not to start another debate, so peace to all

Different people have different experiences w/ biwiring (replacing the stock jumpers falls under this, I think). Some experience significant improvement, others subtle, others none at all. In my experience, the improvement, at the most, is subtle.

Be happy that you didn't hear any difference. That means a lot of savings.

kt · « **Reply #70 on:** Sep 29, 2005 at 12:09 PM »

bro bee! yup i just noticed a small change..not that noticeable if i may say... well at least i tried it already! hehe n after all copper wires should act for better conductivity than the stock jumpers...are those metal btw?

bumblebee · « **Reply #71 on:** Sep 29, 2005 at 12:14 PM »

Quote from: kt on Sep 29, 2005 at 12:09 PM

bro bee! yup i just noticed a small change..not that noticeable if i may say... well at least i tried it already! hehe n after all copper wires should act for better conductivity than the stock jumpers...are those metal btw?

Yup, those are metal jumpers.

kt · « **Reply #72 on:** Sep 29, 2005 at 01:15 PM »

bro bee tnx for the info! i'll do some more trials with the wires

OCMonk · « **Reply #73 on:** Apr 06, 2007 at 07:35 PM »

Mga sirs, sobrang newbie question..

Ok lang ba na magdagdag ng tweeter sa fronts ng isang multimedia 5.1 speaker system(altec vs3251)?parang ipa-parallel ko siya sa output ng fronts.

I know its not modular and everything..pero would it possibly work? or what harm could it do to the system or at the integrated amp?

kulang kasi sa highs yung altec ko, hanggang 17Khz lang siya.. may nagsabi sakin na di daw kasi magiging harsh yung sound at di siya modular tulad ng mga audio/HT speakers na modular.. pero may nagsabi rin na pwede rin naman just add resistors daw and the right wiring.. so ano po talaga tama?

tnx

oweidah · « **Reply #74 on:** Apr 06, 2007 at 07:45 PM »

Quote from: KEN on Sep 24, 2005 at 07:15 PM

hi levi,

...looks like a regular a stranded copper wire 16 or 18 ga ata size but with "b&w loudspeakers Ltd." markings on its insulator.

ken

whats the capacitor used and its value sa crossover ng bw602? tnx

ProtegeManiac · « **Reply #75 on:** Apr 07, 2007 at 06:59 AM »

anyone know if wharfe 8.4's have a provision for sand-loading? I dont have the manual for mine, and the online manual includes only the 8.1, 8.2 and 8.3, and doesn't mention if the 8.3 has this.

aHobbit · « **Reply #76 on:** Apr 10, 2007 at 02:25 PM »

you can ...

if the altec is just a full range driver (no tweeter), then a tweeter with a capacitor should work but ... I wish I can say everything, so here is my suggestion

at 17khz, you will need basically about 1uF capacitor (cut of at 20khz actually), mga 1.33uF for 17khz (unusual cap value, PARALLEL 2 of 0.68uF cap will do the trick, then reverse the polarity to the tweeter). At the same time, tweeter are typically of much higher sensitivity than typical mass market full range, so you need a resistor (also in series, desirable than just caps alone). start from about 100ohms (5W, the rectangular white one), then decrease or increase to your desired sonic balance. With the resistor, there will be no issue on the amp (it will not be able to see the tweeter because of the resistor - kinda like that). Further, you may need a 16ohm (5W resistor) in parallel to the series connection of cap/tweeter (to effectively cut off at 17khz).

+----1uF----tweeter----+
---100ohms----+ +------- (positive terminal)
+------16ohms---------+

Lastly, IMO, 17khz is not that bad really.

AudioAmplified · « **Reply #77 on:** Apr 10, 2007 at 03:35 PM »

Has anyone upgraded their capacitors? We have a few clients who did this upgrade themselves and so far they said they are happy with it but i personally havent heard their speakers pre and post upgrade so dont know.

OCMonk · « **Reply #78 on:** Apr 10, 2007 at 05:10 PM »

Quote from: aHobbit on Apr 10, 2007 at 02:25 PM

you can ...

if the altec is just a full range driver (no tweeter), then a tweeter with a capacitor should work but ... I wish I can say everything, so here is my suggestion

at 17khz, you will need basically about 1uF capacitor (cut of at 20khz actually), mga 1.33uF for 17khz (unusual cap value, series 2 of 0.68uF cap will do the trick, then reverse the polarity to the tweeter). At the same time, tweeter are typically of much higher sensitivity than typical mass market full range, so you need a resistor (also in series, desirable than just caps alone). start from about 100ohms (5W, the rectangular white one), then decrease or increase to your desired sonic balance. With the resistor, there will be no issue on the amp (it will not be able to see the tweeter because of the resistor - kinda like that). Further, you may need a 16ohm (5W resistor) in parallel to the series connection of cap/tweeter (to effectively cut off at 17khz).

+----1uF----tweeter----+
---100ohms----+ +------- (positive terminal)
+------16ohms---------+

Lastly, IMO, 17khz is not that bad really.

wow sir ahobbit this is very detailed and helpful..do i need a small circuit board for this? ayaw ko open speakers e, bago pa..

17khz is not so bad? so would the tweeter really help? or should you leave it alone if you were in my case?

tnx sir!

aHobbit · « **Reply #79 on:** Apr 11, 2007 at 09:48 AM »

Quote from: OCMonk on Apr 10, 2007 at 05:10 PM

wow sir ahobbit this is very detailed and helpful..do i need a small circuit board for this? ayaw ko open speakers e, bago pa..

17khz is not so bad? so would the tweeter really help? or should you leave it alone if you were in my case?

tnx sir!

No need of circuit board. Why do you have to open the speaker? is the amp inside the speaker? if it is, there is no way for you to access at least the terminal of the speaker where the amp is!

You only need to run wire to the +/- terminal of each speaker, and let it out. then you can attach all the components I indicated above. Just ensure all connections are insulated (the 100 ohms resistor is preferred to be inside the speaker na - so just in case your wire is shorted outside incidentally, your amp is still protected by that resistor loading).

If the 17khz is true, I may leave it as is. But if your ear tells you it sounds as lacking, then I might experiment some tweets with them. The usual piezo tweets (PHP100 yata a pair has high sensitivity and a good cheap start to experiment - though majority of them sounds harsh - medyo magaspang - few are really good - has built in 12db cross over, so you only need the 100ohms and not the cap/parallel resistor).

OCMonk · « **Reply #80 on:** Apr 11, 2007 at 12:43 PM »

maraming salamat uli sir, ambait mo!

yan ang tunay na PDVDer!

aHobbit · « **Reply #81 on:** Apr 13, 2007 at 12:53 PM »

... mga 1.33uF for 17khz (unusual cap value, PARALLEL 2 of 0.68uF cap will do the trick... )

I made this correction in my early post ... take note

OCMonk · « **Reply #82 on:** Apr 13, 2007 at 05:22 PM »

tama po ba ito sir?

aHobbit · « **Reply #83 on:** Apr 13, 2007 at 06:10 PM »

sent u PM

Lucky7 · « **Reply #84 on:** Apr 13, 2007 at 11:03 PM »

Try this link

http://www.hi-fi-insight.com/205/quad-11l-loudspeakers-tweak.htm

I did the same to my quad12l at nagimprove ang bass but the treble is still the same.

OCMonk · « **Reply #85 on:** Apr 14, 2007 at 01:36 AM »

tnx sir aHobbit!

sent you email..

edwin · « **Reply #86 on:** Apr 17, 2007 at 03:34 PM »

These is what I did to my speaker. Replaced the cheap I/C brand polypropylene cap to Mundorf Supreme and change the inetrnal wiring to PCOOC solid core wire. The outcome was a more open, cleaner, clearer open window to the music.

By the way I played around with the quantity of the internal dampening material to balance the bass output. This is to eliminate any boom and make the bass more rythmic and articulate.

This is very simple, you just need to be able to handle the soldering iron

.

JT · « **Reply #87 on:** May 06, 2007 at 01:15 AM »

This is neither a speaker modification or upgrade, I dont know where to post it so dito na lang.

Dahil di pa makatulog ngayon eh I decided to see what fine tuning i can do to my setup. Naisipan kong gamitin both the KEF HTS2001 (fr KEF KHT2005 sub/sat) and my old Mission M70 as front speakers to my Denon 1507.

Im not expecting much pero malaki ang naging improvement esp for SACD/DVD-Audio. Mas naging wide ang soundstaging at nag-improve ang midrange. Parang naging floorstander ang performance.

May bago na naman sa pandinig so siguradong puyatan na naman this coming days to test my fav videos and audios.

edwin · « **Reply #88 on:** May 21, 2007 at 05:43 PM »

Quote from: Audio_Jolog1 on May 21, 2007 at 04:36 PM

Quote from: edwin on Apr 17, 2007 at 03:34 PM

By the way I played around with the quantity of the internal dampening material to balance the bass output. This is to eliminate any boom and make the bass more rythmic and articulate.

Hi. Just want to ask where I can get said dampening materials? Thanks...

A good substitute dampening material ay iyong ginagamit na pansala sa dumi ng aquarium, or filter na ginagamit sa stove range hood.

Jagner · « **Reply #89 on:** May 21, 2007 at 06:02 PM »

Quote from: Audio_Jolog1 on May 21, 2007 at 04:36 PM

Quote from: edwin on Apr 17, 2007 at 03:34 PM

By the way I played around with the quantity of the internal dampening material to balance the bass output. This is to eliminate any boom and make the bass more rythmic and articulate.

Hi. Just want to ask where I can get said dampening materials? Thanks...

Those are poly-fill materials. In addition to edwin's reply, you can easily get poly-fill from furniture upholster suppliers, textile suppliers and from pillows