Author Topic: Choosing an AV Receiver  (Read 196055 times)

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Offline Signal2Noise

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Re: newbe question (AV RECEIVER)
« Reply #90 on: May 26, 2006 at 05:15 PM »
Listen to it....Try to audition some receivers from well respected manufacturers and let your senses be the final verdict.

For Receivers:

Marantz, Denon, Pioneer Elite, Rotel, Arcam, Yamaha

For Amplifiers:

NAD, Marantz, Rotel, Denon, Exposure, Roksan, Cambridge, Musical Fidelity
VPI
Musical Surroundings
Harbeth
Sonusfaber
Garrard
Exposure
NAD
Amadeus SR#1 KT88
Maestro SET 845

Offline joey

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Re: newbe question (AV RECEIVER)
« Reply #91 on: May 27, 2006 at 12:00 AM »
also try to match the reciever with your prefer speaker, cdp or dvdp, and play your favorite song.

Offline Signal2Noise

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Re: newbe question (AV RECEIVER)
« Reply #92 on: May 27, 2006 at 05:57 AM »
also try to match the reciever with your prefer speaker, cdp or dvdp, and play your favorite song.

Correct....This is the most important thing.  Kahit gaano kaganda ng receiver, loudspeakers, player & program materials mo kung hindi match sa isa't-isa, useless and waste of time and money.
VPI
Musical Surroundings
Harbeth
Sonusfaber
Garrard
Exposure
NAD
Amadeus SR#1 KT88
Maestro SET 845

Offline coolestboy

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whats the best receiver for beginners
« Reply #93 on: Jun 02, 2006 at 05:18 PM »
a lot of posters here say that beginners like me should invest in a good receiver.

lemme ask the experts and long time HT enthusiasts....whats a good receiver brand for us beginners?

Offline ndy

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Re: whats the best receiver for beginners
« Reply #94 on: Jun 06, 2006 at 11:52 AM »
beginner din lang po.

yamaha
harman kardon

imho :)

happy hunting ;)


ps parang dapat amp section tung post mo ;D
« Last Edit: Jun 06, 2006 at 11:58 AM by ndy »
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Marantz SR7011
Cambridge Audio CXA61
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Offline audibleillusions

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Re: whats the best receiver for beginners
« Reply #95 on: Jun 06, 2006 at 07:57 PM »
AUDIBLE ILLUSIONS AUDIBLE ILLUSIONS AUDIBLE ILLUSIONS AUDIBLE ILLUSIONS AUDIBLE ILLUSIONS AUDIBLE ILLUSIONS AUDIBLE ILLUSIONS AUDIBLE ILLUSIONS
Sir gud day
depende sir sa gusto nyong type of music
kung mahilig kayo parehas sa music and movie siguro yamaha or onkyo
for quality music and movie yamaha but depende na rin sa speaker na gagamitin mo
for more power or medyo malakas ang listening habit onkyo but depende na rin sa speaker na gagamitin mo
for sounds lang talaga integrated amps
NEW HERE IN THIS PLACE
just want to let you know that the location of the store is @ 50D TIMOG AVENUE. QUEZON CITY
FEEL FREE TO DROP BY VISIT THE PLACE

or call us 3743620



TO HEAR IS TO BELIEVE!!!   TO HEAR IS TO BELIEVE   TO HEAR IS TO BELIEVE   TO HEAR IS TO BELIEVE   TO HEAR IS TO BELIEVE
THE BETTER SOUND and VIEWS FOR BUDGETED PRICE

Offline sanction214

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Re: Choosing a Receiver
« Reply #96 on: Jun 07, 2006 at 09:20 AM »
i'm planning on a Denon 1906 for my JBL SCS 200.6 any comment on this would ne appreciated...i've auditiones HK's for this and they were all great sounding...would a separate equalizer be needed in a good HT set-up?... ;D

Offline av_phile1

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Re: Choosing a Receiver
« Reply #97 on: Jun 07, 2006 at 04:20 PM »
i'm planning on a Denon 1906 for my JBL SCS 200.6 any comment on this would ne appreciated...i've auditiones HK's for this and they were all great sounding...would a separate equalizer be needed in a good HT set-up?... ;D

Nope.  Not necessary, unless you have room accoustic problems you want corrected that room treatments can't do.  Even then, only a Parametric equalizer will do,  not a graphic equalizer.   Your HT receiver has DSP settings that have been equalized already. 

Offline MAtZTER

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Re: whats the best receiver for beginners
« Reply #98 on: Jun 07, 2006 at 04:52 PM »
a lot of posters here say that beginners like me should invest in a good receiver.

lemme ask the experts and long time HT enthusiasts....whats a good receiver brand for us beginners?

I would also like to mention that for those wanting to get floorstanders, it would also be best if you go for higher powered receivers. Specially if you are into music.

When I was new to this hobby, I thought that floorstander = bookshelf speaker plus stand. What I learned after several upgrades was that I forgot the receiver in the equation, which makes the floorstander setup more expensive. Floorstanders usually need more power than bookshelves to sound their best. Yes, they can be driven by lower powered receivers, but not to their best, usually manipis yung tunog.

Your salesman who is after the sale (usually) wont really tell you that , cuz it might not fit your budget and you might end up walking out of the sale. This also applies to hard to drive speakers like Dynaudio and B&W (fr what store owners say).

Also, a receiver with pre outs is very much recommended, since you can add amplifiers to enhance your fronts. A good option would be to get the lowest model with pre outs and buy a very good power amplifier (kahit mahal, one time lang naman eh) to power your fronts, and let the receiver handle the surrounds. This way, you can upgrade your AVR when the tech is obsolete and still retain your power amp.

Just my 2 cents and some stuff I learned here in pdvd and my personal experiences.

« Last Edit: Jun 07, 2006 at 05:02 PM by MAtZTER »

Offline 24bit

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Re: Choosing a Receiver
« Reply #99 on: Jun 09, 2006 at 04:44 PM »
Matzter,

I'm also planning to upgrade my AVR, may pre-out na do you think it is much better to just buy a power amp for Fronts? Di ba maiiwan yung Center and surround? or magiging unbalance since the front will be enhanced but the rest will stay the same?

Thanks.

Offline audibleillusions

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Re: Choosing a Receiver
« Reply #100 on: Jun 10, 2006 at 05:21 PM »
AUDIBLE ILLUSIONS AUDIBLE ILLUSIONS AUDIBLE ILLUSIONS AUDIBLE ILLUSIONS AUDIBLE ILLUSIONS AUDIBLE ILLUSIONS AUDIBLE ILLUSIONS AUDIBLE ILLUSIONS

Choosing a Receiver
Receivers
Think of the receiver as the heart of a home theater system. It is actually several components in one chassis. Receivers are the best choice for most home theater systems as they are easy to buy and represent very high value. The functions of a receiver are:
Tuner - Receives AM and FM radio stations.
Preamp/Switching Center - The preamp section of the receiver controls volume, bass, treble and other basic control functions. It also serves as a switching station for you whole home theater system, allowing you to switch audio and video sources. Make sure the receiver you are considering has enough audio and video inputs and outputs to handle all your current and future sources. Be especially aware of the number and type of digital inputs it provides. Are there enough for all your present and future digital sources such as DVD, DSS, Digital Cable. If you have a Laser Disc player, make sure the receiver has a digital RF input. If your TV has an S Video input, make sure the receiver has S Video inputs and outputs (S Video cables provide better picture quality). If you want the option of adding an outboard surround decoder in the future (such as DTS or some as yet-to-be-invented processing), get a receiver with 6 pre-amp level inputs.
Surround Processor - This part of the receiver "decodes" the surround sound information from the source and directs the 5 (or 6) channels of information to the proper speakers. The major types of surround processors are discussed above. All receivers sold today have Dolby Pro Logic built-in so that you can get surround effects from broadcast and cable TV and videotape. Many receivers also feature built-in Dolby Digital processing in addition to Pro Logic. Some receivers are "Dolby Digital Ready" which means that an outboard Digital decoder can be added at a later date (but you will spend more money in the long run). Even if you are not getting a digital source (like a DVD player) right now, it still makes sense to get a receiver with Dolby Digital built-in as it is the de facto surround standard of today and is likely to be with us for a long time.
Power amplifiers - The power amplifiers are the part of the receiver that drive the speakers. The higher the power (watts) of the amplifier section, the louder and cleaner the speakers will play. Don't worry about small differences in power, in order to get an audible volume difference (a 3dB increase) you need to have double the power. So if you are considering a 50 watt per channel receiver, the next significant step-up power wise is 100 watts per channel.
But beware, not all watts are created equal. It is not uncommon to have two receivers or amps of equal rated power where one plays louder and sounds better than the other. Why? Some manufacturers measure only one channel operating at a time, rather than all channels driven simultaneously (as you would use it). Also standard amplifier tests cannot mimic the same electrical conditions, or load, of an actual loudspeaker. But most of all, specifications cannot measure the quality of sound.
So how do you tell which receiver has the better amplifier section?

Here are a few clues to look for:


Look carefully at the power specifications. A thorough and meaningful power specs would look something like this: "100W/ch @ 8 ohms, with no more than 0.1% THD, from 20-20,000 Hz, all channels driven." In this spec you can tell that the power was measured in the way you will use it: at low Total Harmonic Distortion (anything under .5% is low enough), through the whole audible frequency range (20Hz - 20kHz) and with all the speakers playing. A lessor quality receiver might quote power like this: "100W/ch @8 ohms, at 1 kHz, one channel driven." That's a lot like quoting a car's acceleration as "0 - 60 MPH, downhill with a stiff breeze."
Look for power ratings at lower than 8 ohm loads (Ohms are a measure of the electrical resistance of the speaker). Ideally the amp should be able to put out at least 50% more power into a 4 ohm load as an 8 ohm load. If there is no 4 ohm power rating quoted, chances are that the amp will not drive a 4 ohm speaker. Almost all speakers are less than 8 ohms for some part of the frequency range (impedance varies with frequency) and many fine speakers are 4 ohm speakers. Get a receiver that can safely drive a 4 ohm speaker.
Beware of the super bargain. If you see a receiver that seems to offer a lot of power for a ridiculously low price it is probably too good to be true - literally. Separate Components
If you are a real audiophile and want the absolute best performance, you will be better off getting all of the above components as separate pieces. This approach will give you the greatest amount of flexibility and audibly better performance than can be had from a receiver, but at greater cost and complexity.
 



 
 





 

 
 

Offline synchro_01

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Re: Choosing a Receiver
« Reply #101 on: Jun 11, 2006 at 08:43 AM »
an entry level receiver receiver mated to a good amp isnt necessarily an upgrade over just a plain jane receiver with internal amps.   The quality of the processors and the d/a converters play a major role in the transparency and realism of the sound...not just the amp (internal or outboard). 
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Offline ricky

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Re: Choosing a Receiver
« Reply #102 on: Jun 11, 2006 at 01:49 PM »
i'm planning on a Denon 1906 for my JBL SCS 200.6 any comment on this would ne appreciated...i've auditiones HK's for this and they were all great sounding...would a separate equalizer be needed in a good HT set-up?... ;D

bro if you're considering getting the denon maybe you can check out the denon 3803 BOTE is selling at the buy and sell section. Konti lang diff sa price but well worth sa performance ;D

Offline av_phile1

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Re: whats the best receiver for beginners
« Reply #103 on: Jun 13, 2006 at 11:46 AM »
I would also like to mention that for those wanting to get floorstanders, it would also be best if you go for higher powered receivers. Specially if you are into music.

When I was new to this hobby, I thought that floorstander = bookshelf speaker plus stand. What I learned after several upgrades was that I forgot the receiver in the equation, which makes the floorstander setup more expensive. Floorstanders usually need more power than bookshelves to sound their best. Yes, they can be driven by lower powered receivers, but not to their best, usually manipis yung tunog.

Your salesman who is after the sale (usually) wont really tell you that , cuz it might not fit your budget and you might end up walking out of the sale. This also applies to hard to drive speakers like Dynaudio and B&W (fr what store owners say).

Also, a receiver with pre outs is very much recommended, since you can add amplifiers to enhance your fronts. A good option would be to get the lowest model with pre outs and buy a very good power amplifier (kahit mahal, one time lang naman eh) to power your fronts, and let the receiver handle the surrounds. This way, you can upgrade your AVR when the tech is obsolete and still retain your power amp.

Just my 2 cents and some stuff I learned here in pdvd and my personal experiences.



I find it odd that most entry level HT receivers don't have 5.1 preouts.  These are are the receivers that would most likely benefit from better or more powerful outboard amps either to start with or as an upgrade path.  It's often the mid-levels and flagships that do have pre-outs when their amps are often powerful enough.   Just an observation.

Offline av_phile1

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Re: Choosing a Receiver
« Reply #104 on: Jun 13, 2006 at 11:48 AM »
an entry level receiver receiver mated to a good amp isnt necessarily an upgrade over just a plain jane receiver with internal amps.   The quality of the processors and the d/a converters play a major role in the transparency and realism of the sound...not just the amp (internal or outboard). 

Every component part is important.  I say the chain is only as good as its weakest link.   ;D

Offline lakambini

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Re: Choosing a Receiver
« Reply #105 on: Jun 14, 2006 at 11:20 AM »
av_phile1

I am keen on setting-up a home theater.  However, I am confuse whether to get a marantz sr5600 ( because of its pre-outs, hdcd and csii) or a denon 2106 (because of its auto-setup and room-eq).  I am more into stereo music listening.  What receiver produces the best sound in both movies especially in 2-channel music listening?

Offline Signal2Noise

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Re: Choosing a Receiver
« Reply #106 on: Jun 15, 2006 at 07:05 PM »
av_phile1

I am keen on setting-up a home theater.  However, I am confuse whether to get a marantz sr5600 ( because of its pre-outs, hdcd and csii) or a denon 2106 (because of its auto-setup and room-eq).  I am more into stereo music listening.  What receiver produces the best sound in both movies especially in 2-channel music listening?

It's very hard to tell which is best.  Because as you know, receivers were designed in home cinema applications with high dynamic drive.  Meaning those sudden burst of sounds coming from the movie.  On the other hand, stereo/integrated amp has a different dynamics.  In terms of music, int. amp has more power drive than receivers.  Even if you compared a thousand dollar mark receiver against a $400 int amp (say: NAD, Rotel, Marantz..etc) .  the int. amp will surely dominate the receiver in terms of sonic performance in music.  A 50W int amp is distinctively powerful than 80-90W receiver.

Here's a suggestion and better to audition these brands:  Denon AVR, Marantz Range, Pioneer VSX, Yamaha RX & Sony STR series.  8)
VPI
Musical Surroundings
Harbeth
Sonusfaber
Garrard
Exposure
NAD
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Maestro SET 845

Offline aHobbit

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Re: Choosing a Receiver
« Reply #107 on: Jun 16, 2006 at 10:34 AM »
It's very hard to tell which is best.  Because as you know, receivers were designed in home cinema applications with high dynamic drive.  Meaning those sudden burst of sounds coming from the movie. 

What's the difference between receivers' amp design and integrated amps' design?  ??? Did they use different measurement parameters or standards?  :(

What's the difference in the dynamics of receivers' amp and integrated amps? Can you tell what measurement of the amps made you conclude this?


On the other hand, stereo/integrated amp has a different dynamics.  In terms of music, int. amp has more power drive than receivers.  Even if you compared a thousand dollar mark receiver against a $400 int amp (say: NAD, Rotel, Marantz..etc) .  the int. amp will surely dominate the receiver in terms of sonic performance in music.  A 50W int amp is distinctively powerful than 80-90W receiver.

Here's a suggestion and better to audition these brands:  Denon AVR, Marantz Range, Pioneer VSX, Yamaha RX & Sony STR series.  8)


What power drive are you refering to? which among the specs tells you that integrated amp has more power drive?  ???  ???


... Even if you compared a thousand dollar mark receiver against a $400 int amp (say: NAD, Rotel, Marantz..etc) .  the int. amp will surely dominate the receiver in terms of sonic performance in music. 

which part of the integrated amp specs dominate the receiver in terms of sonic performance in music?  ???  ???  ???


... A 50W int amp is distinctively powerful than 80-90W receiver.

Here's a suggestion and better to audition these brands:  Denon AVR, Marantz Range, Pioneer VSX, Yamaha RX & Sony STR series.  8)


and when does a 50W became more powerful than 80-90W? and distinctly at that? ???  ???  ???  ???


The way I look at it, the difference of sound lies not on the amp itself but on the varying DSP and equalization which equipped receivers, for it to perform as HT, and bypassing it, to perform like a JBOA (just a bunch of amp) like the integrateds. The old-style integrateds does have no vanilla DSP/equalizations to speak of, so nothing to tweak really, the pre-amp does have (depending on what you've got!

Given the typical mass market specs publication - an 80-90W is an 80-90watt (at least in stereo mode) just like any integrateds.

If you are a follower of branded integrateds, they are typically adjusted (equalized) to maintain their sound signature - this is not the amp section - this is the built-in equalizer of the the pre-amp section. Further, your speaker will also determine up to what extent this equalization will affect the final sonic output.

The mass market receivers enjoys lower prices than integrated simply because there is a lot of demand for it - economies of scale - not necessarily because it was made with cut corners (which integrated also do, depending on the price you are willing to pay, given a smaller demand for it, thus higher price as a model for its economies of scale). The amps are basically the same (sans whatever design there could be) for all of them - unless somebody is telling us they have a new amp design methodologies different from the 60's - the only one I can think of change is the digital amp.

and there are HT-designed receiver that can topple integrateds if sonic performance is the issue, not the specs - but again take the right speakers.

We have the internet now, and information are not difficult anymore. There is no black magic in amps and makers of high end are finding it more difficult to sell, unless they can sell the hype the people wanted to buy - and showing the uniqueness of the signal their amps produce vs the mass market receivers.

IMHO, invest more in the right and good speakers' implementation, and there is more reward in it in terms of sonic performance than wasting your money in hyped JBOA (just a bunch of "same-old-designed" amplifiers). A popular 2K amp, reviewed heavily, praised, manipulated for more business  ;D, can easily dwarf the prerformance of high ends - of course, get the right speakers.

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« Last Edit: Jun 16, 2006 at 10:44 AM by aHobbit »
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Offline av_phile1

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Re: Choosing a Receiver
« Reply #108 on: Jun 16, 2006 at 11:30 AM »
av_phile1

I am keen on setting-up a home theater.  However, I am confuse whether to get a marantz sr5600 ( because of its pre-outs, hdcd and csii) or a denon 2106 (because of its auto-setup and room-eq).  I am more into stereo music listening.  What receiver produces the best sound in both movies especially in 2-channel music listening?

Between the two models you mentioned,  assuming they're not that far in terms of price, power handling and digital processing features, i'd get the marantz.  The pre-outs are quite important for me, since I could use the receiver as a preamp mated to more muscled power amps in case I want to upgrade to more powerful sonics sooner or later without throwing the reciever  (though investing in a more sensitive speaker set will also do the job).  A room equalization feature is nice but is said to work well in some rooms and not in others.  But it's not in my "must have" list.  I haven't heard these models myself so I am just going by the specs you mentioned.  I have no doubt both would be quite competent in the HT department.  In stereo, the marantz name seems to enjoy a wide audiophile following, but Denon doesn't lag in that area especially in Japan where it enjoys as much respect and following.  I really suggest you audition and compare the two in the stereo mode. Bring along a familiar CD when auditioning.
« Last Edit: Jun 16, 2006 at 11:34 AM by av_phile1 »

Offline aHobbit

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Re: Choosing a Receiver
« Reply #109 on: Jun 16, 2006 at 02:49 PM »
Between the two models you mentioned,  assuming they're not that far in terms of price, power handling and digital processing features, i'd get the marantz.  The pre-outs are quite important for me, since I could use the receiver as a preamp mated to more muscled power amps in case I want to upgrade to more powerful sonics sooner or later without throwing the reciever  (though investing in a more sensitive speaker set will also do the job).  A room equalization feature is nice but is said to work well in some rooms and not in others.  But it's not in my "must have" list.  I haven't heard these models myself so I am just going by the specs you mentioned.  I have no doubt both would be quite competent in the HT department.  In stereo, the marantz name seems to enjoy a wide audiophile following, but Denon doesn't lag in that area especially in Japan where it enjoys as much respect and following.  I really suggest you audition and compare the two in the stereo mode. Bring along a familiar CD when auditioning.

Marantz for me too!  ;) that pre-out (which is what makes marantz attractive option - aside from its stereo sonic signature) will give you options to give more oomph to your HT since those mass market will not output you at least 80Wpc simultaneously as they advertised, though in stereo mode, it may exceed even the 100w mark. The denon can only be effective (equalization and auto setup) if it knows your personal taste and preference. Otherwise, it was just added in the receiver for you to pay and not use at all.  ;D
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Offline Signal2Noise

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Re: Choosing a Receiver
« Reply #110 on: Jun 16, 2006 at 09:05 PM »
What's the difference between receivers' amp design and integrated amps' design?  ??? Did they use different measurement parameters or standards?  :(

What's the difference in the dynamics of receivers' amp and integrated amps? Can you tell what measurement of the amps made you conclude this?


What power drive are you refering to? which among the specs tells you that integrated amp has more power drive?  ???  ???


which part of the integrated amp specs dominate the receiver in terms of sonic performance in music?  ???  ???  ???


and when does a 50W became more powerful than 80-90W? and distinctly at that? ???  ???  ???  ???


The way I look at it, the difference of sound lies not on the amp itself but on the varying DSP and equalization which equipped receivers, for it to perform as HT, and bypassing it, to perform like a JBOA (just a bunch of amp) like the integrateds. The old-style integrateds does have no vanilla DSP/equalizations to speak of, so nothing to tweak really, the pre-amp does have (depending on what you've got!

Given the typical mass market specs publication - an 80-90W is an 80-90watt (at least in stereo mode) just like any integrateds.

If you are a follower of branded integrateds, they are typically adjusted (equalized) to maintain their sound signature - this is not the amp section - this is the built-in equalizer of the the pre-amp section. Further, your speaker will also determine up to what extent this equalization will affect the final sonic output.

The mass market receivers enjoys lower prices than integrated simply because there is a lot of demand for it - economies of scale - not necessarily because it was made with cut corners (which integrated also do, depending on the price you are willing to pay, given a smaller demand for it, thus higher price as a model for its economies of scale). The amps are basically the same (sans whatever design there could be) for all of them - unless somebody is telling us they have a new amp design methodologies different from the 60's - the only one I can think of change is the digital amp.

and there are HT-designed receiver that can topple integrateds if sonic performance is the issue, not the specs - but again take the right speakers.

We have the internet now, and information are not difficult anymore. There is no black magic in amps and makers of high end are finding it more difficult to sell, unless they can sell the hype the people wanted to buy - and showing the uniqueness of the signal their amps produce vs the mass market receivers.

IMHO, invest more in the right and good speakers' implementation, and there is more reward in it in terms of sonic performance than wasting your money in hyped JBOA (just a bunch of "same-old-designed" amplifiers). A popular 2K amp, reviewed heavily, praised, manipulated for more business  ;D, can easily dwarf the prerformance of high ends - of course, get the right speakers.

Notions Notions Notions

With regards to your questions?  When I said a 50W integrated amp is distinctively powerful than 80 or 90W receiver is because, an integrated amp is only driving 2 channel output  compared to an 80-90W receiver which is driving a 5 or 7.1 load.  The more speakers being connected, the higher the capacitance. We're talking about here MUSIC/Audio only, not home cinema application in my post.  In most 5 or 7.1 receivers, the output power were being desipitated into several channels.  No way on earth you can find an honest receiver driving 5 or 7.1 load  (all channels simultaneously driven) @ full declared power output in real-world condition.  Normally happens, it goes down to 70% of the declared output power.  Do you think the surround channel of your receiver for instance still producing an 80-90W output drive....No way man!  In most surround channels, it only has around 12-20W maximum output power, again in real-world condition / full frequency range.  Unlike in 2ch int. amp, it can drive both channels simultaneously...Kase nga Stereo di ba?

About the dynamic drive, in receiver configuration.  It actually designate those sudden burst of sounds to its surround, center & sub channels and some to the fronts.  While in stereo amp dynamic range, it has a higher dynamic output  because it caters music not home cinema straight directly to the front speakers.  Your asking about measurement?  Parehong measurement in W, nagkaiba lang sa application.

Power Drive....?  In comparison between AV receivers versus int. amps I said power drive because try to notice the volume (dB) indicator of your receiver.  Before you playloud nasaan iyong dial?  -20 or -10dB? (max. +18), while in stereo amp, from 8 o'clock as point of origin....@ 10-11 o'clock lang ay malakas na, but you can still go way up 'till 4 o'clock, basta capable iyong speakers na gamit mo and Party Time na 'yon.

You mentioned about the built-in pre-amp....Again Bro, we're talking here about integrated amp as a whole kaya nga integrated di ba?  If you give emphasis only on the pre-amp section, then you're talking here pre-amp....Right?   I mentioned in my post the comparison of AV receiver versus Integrated Amp (2ch) not the AV receiver versus pre-amp.

"HT-designed receiver that can topple integrateds if sonic performance is the issue"   YES correct ka doon kung ang pag-uusapan natin ay HT application but not pure stereo music?  Dahil lalamunin ng 2ch amp iyong HT receiver mo kapag music alone lang ang pinag-usapan....Maniwala ka sa akin, kahit i-audition mo pa sa mga audio showrooms.  Have you ever heard of Roksan Kandy MK-III/L.III or Jolida (EL34 50W) integrated tube amp? (Attn: Volt & Krug...what's the model of that mini-Jolida)?

To make it short, try to compare say any thousand dollar mark AV receiver (ex. Denon AVR-3805) versus Marantz PM7200, NAD C352 or Rotel RA-03 without mentioning tube integrateds baka mas lalong ma-outperform ng 30-50W EL-34 iyong 100W AVR in terms of music.  Again its  up to you to determine kung totoo ang sinasabi ko.  Good Luck 8)
« Last Edit: Jun 16, 2006 at 09:09 PM by Signal2Noise »
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Re: Choosing a Receiver
« Reply #111 on: Jun 16, 2006 at 09:18 PM »
With regards to your questions?  When I said a 50W integrated amp is distinctively powerful than 80 or 90W receiver is because, an integrated amp is only driving 2 channel output  compared to an 80-90W receiver which is driving a 5 or 7.1 load.  The more speakers being connected, the higher the capacitance. We're talking about here MUSIC/Audio only, not home cinema application in my post.  In most 5 or 7.1 receivers, the output power were being desipitated into several channels.  No way on earth you can find an honest receiver driving 5 or 7.1 load  (all channels simultaneously driven) @ full declared power output in real-world condition.  Normally happens, it goes down to 70% of the declared output power.  Do you think the surround channel of your receiver for instance still producing an 80-90W output drive....No way man!  In most surround channels, it only has around 12-20W maximum output power, again in real-world condition / full frequency range.  Unlike in 2ch int. amp, it can drive both channels simultaneously...Kase nga Stereo di ba?

About the dynamic drive, in receiver configuration.  It actually designate those sudden burst of sounds to its surround, center & sub channels and some to the fronts.  While in stereo amp dynamic range, it has a higher dynamic output  because it caters music not home cinema straight directly to the front speakers.  Your asking about measurement?  Parehong measurement in W, nagkaiba lang sa application.

Power Drive....?  In comparison between AV receivers versus int. amps I said power drive because try to notice the volume (dB) indicator of your receiver.  Before you playloud nasaan iyong dial?  -20 or -10dB? (max. +18), while in stereo amp, from 8 o'clock as point of origin....@ 10-11 o'clock lang ay malakas na, but you can still go way up 'till 4 o'clock, basta capable iyong speakers na gamit mo and Party Time na 'yon.

You mentioned about the built-in pre-amp....Again Bro, we're talking here about integrated amp as a whole kaya nga integrated di ba?  If you give emphasis only on the pre-amp section, then you're talking here pre-amp....Right?   I mentioned in my post the comparison of AV receiver versus Integrated Amp (2ch) not the AV receiver versus pre-amp.

"HT-designed receiver that can topple integrateds if sonic performance is the issue"   YES correct ka doon kung ang pag-uusapan natin ay HT application but not pure stereo music?  Dahil lalamunin ng 2ch amp iyong HT receiver mo kapag music alone lang ang pinag-usapan....Maniwala ka sa akin, kahit i-audition mo pa sa mga audio showrooms.  Have you ever heard of Roksan Kandy MK-III/L.III or Jolida (EL34 50W) integrated tube amp? (Attn: Volt & Krug...what's the model of that mini-Jolida)?

To make it short, try to compare say any thousand dollar mark AV receiver (ex. Denon AVR-3805) versus Marantz PM7200, NAD C352 or Rotel RA-03 without mentioning tube integrateds baka mas lalong ma-outperform ng 30-50W EL-34 iyong 100W AVR in terms of music.  Again its  up to you to determine kung totoo ang sinasabi ko.  Good Luck 8)

bro signal2noise,

not to offend you, but kung totoo yung sinabi mo, about dun sa comparison mo about int amp vs. any thousand dollar mark AV receivers. how about Yamaha DSP-Z9 or HK 745 vs. 30-50W EL-34 tube amp what would be more powerful?
« Last Edit: Jun 16, 2006 at 09:24 PM by hattori_hanzo »
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Re: Choosing a Receiver
« Reply #112 on: Jun 17, 2006 at 08:17 AM »
bro signal2noise,

not to offend you, but kung totoo yung sinabi mo, about dun sa comparison mo about int amp vs. any thousand dollar mark AV receivers. how about Yamaha DSP-Z9 or HK 745 vs. 30-50W EL-34 tube amp what would be more powerful?

I am not familiar with the Yammy or HK AVR that you mentioned.  Pero sonic performance hindi ka naging specific doon sa anong klaseng EL34 ba ang iko-compare mo doon sa 2. Meron mga El-34 tube amps na below $K mark na kayang i-out perform iyong mga sinasabi mong receivers.  Like those entry-level from Sophia Electric, Cary Audio & Jolida.  Actually itong Sophia & Cary nasa $1.5K MSRP pero pagdating na sa market medyo magiging less pa.    Meron din iyong mga gawang China at iyong mga locally manufactured dito sa atin worth Php25-45K per unit. 

A tube amplification is far more sonic and powerful (iyong mga detalye na hindi mo marinig sa AVR mo, ay maririnig mo using tube or hybrid SS int.).  Bakit kamo, sa receiver iisa lang ang transformer tapos may distribution ng power nito sa mga output channels.  Whereas in int. tube amps, always 2 ang output transformers dedicated for each channel nito (bukod pa doon sa power transformer nito), lalo na kung ang ginamit ay iyong the same standards as TO300 transformers.  Sa AVR 12Vdc lang ang dumadaloy na kuryente whereas sa tube I think 450-550Vdc.  Actually old technology na itong TO300, may mga later produced pa like TO350 and others from different models & brands.  Lalo pa siguro kung iyong mga KT-88/90 tubes (from brands like Pathos Logos & Audio Research-I've heard of these tandemed with Sonus Faber "Concerto" nung nasa Mid-East pa ako, near actual live performance na, parang kaharap mo lang si Dave Gruisin & Lee Ritenour habang nagja-jamming sa piano & guitar), kaya lang ang pinag-uusapan natin dito ay below $K mark amp kaya balik tayo sa El-34s.

But then again, saan mo ba iko-compare iyong Yammy & HK against the EL-34 configuration tube amp?  Pure audio lang ba or multi-channel home cinema application?  Kapag sinabi mong HT application, very obvious na Yams or HK pero uulitin ko, PURE AUDIO lang ba?  Baka magulat ka kung maging day & night ang difference nila.  Actually kung brand lang ang pag-uusapan, hindi Yams or HK ang prestigious name pagdating sa AVRs, kundi DENON.  Check mo sa mga different audio mags & reviews like What HiFi UK, Home Theater Mag, Stereophile, Audioholics.Com, HiFi Choice...Denon is the name.   Try to audition and ikaw na rin ang makakasagot sa tanong mo.... 8)  (Binebenta ko iyong Marantz AVR ko para pandagdag sa pambili ko nang Jolida, baka may alam ka na gustong bumili) Thanks..... :D
« Last Edit: Jun 17, 2006 at 08:42 AM by Signal2Noise »
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Re: Choosing a Receiver
« Reply #113 on: Jun 17, 2006 at 09:57 AM »
yup sir in terms of stereo mode lang, a thousand dollar mark AVR vs. integrated amps (models youve mentioned below) and 30-50W EL-34:

"To make it short, try to compare say any thousand dollar mark AV receiver (ex. Denon AVR-3805) versus Marantz PM7200, NAD C352 or Rotel RA-03 without mentioning tube integrateds baka mas lalong ma-outperform ng 30-50W EL-34 iyong 100W AVR in terms of music.  Again its  up to you to determine kung totoo ang sinasabi ko.  Good Luck"

sir were not just talking about audio refinements but also power, youve said:

"A 50W int amp is distinctively powerful than 80-90W receiver."

sir heres the specs of the yamaha Z9:


DSP-Z9 Main Specifications
AUDIO SECTION
Maximum Power
Front Channels 250 W + 250 W
Center Channel 250 W
Surround Channels 250 W + 250 W
Surround Back Channel 250 W + 250 W
Presence Channel 70 W + 70 W
Minimum RMS Output Power (8 ohms, 20 Hz—20 kHz, 0.015% THD)
Front Channels 170 W + 170 W
Center Channel 170 W
Surround Channels 170 W + 170 W
Surround Back Channel 170 W + 170 W
Presence Channel (1 kHz, 0.5% THD) 50 W + 50 W
High Dynamic Power, Low-Impedance Drive Capability Yes
Dynamic Power/Channel 8 ohms 210 W
6 ohms 260 W
4 ohms 340 W
2 ohms 580 W

and here the HK 745:


Stereo Mode:
Continuous Average Power (FTC) per Channel : 100 Watts per channel @ <0.07% THD, 20Hz – 20kHz, both channels driven into 8 ohms.

Seven-Channel Surround Modes, Power per Individual Channel,
All Channels Operating at Full Power :     
Front L & R Channels :  85 Watts per channel @ <0.07% THD, 20Hz – 20kHz into 8 ohms 
Center Channel : 85 Watts @ <0.07% THD, 20Hz – 20kHz into 8 ohms 
Surround Channels (L & R Side, L & R Back) : 85 Watts per channel @ <0.07% THD, 20Hz – 20kHz into 8 ohms 
High Instantaneous Current Capability (HCC) :  ±60 Amps 
Power Consumption : 8.9W Standby, 130W Idle, 1,480W Max.

vs. integrated amps and tubes that youve mentioned above...


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Re: Choosing a Receiver
« Reply #114 on: Jun 17, 2006 at 02:00 PM »
yup sir in terms of stereo mode lang, a thousand dollar mark AVR vs. integrated amps (models youve mentioned below) and 30-50W EL-34:

"To make it short, try to compare say any thousand dollar mark AV receiver (ex. Denon AVR-3805) versus Marantz PM7200, NAD C352 or Rotel RA-03 without mentioning tube integrateds baka mas lalong ma-outperform ng 30-50W EL-34 iyong 100W AVR in terms of music.  Again its  up to you to determine kung totoo ang sinasabi ko.  Good Luck"

sir were not just talking about audio refinements but also power, youve said:

"A 50W int amp is distinctively powerful than 80-90W receiver."

sir heres the specs of the yamaha Z9:


DSP-Z9 Main Specifications
AUDIO SECTION
Maximum Power
Front Channels 250 W + 250 W
Center Channel 250 W
Surround Channels 250 W + 250 W
Surround Back Channel 250 W + 250 W
Presence Channel 70 W + 70 W
Minimum RMS Output Power (8 ohms, 20 Hz—20 kHz, 0.015% THD)
Front Channels 170 W + 170 W
Center Channel 170 W
Surround Channels 170 W + 170 W
Surround Back Channel 170 W + 170 W
Presence Channel (1 kHz, 0.5% THD) 50 W + 50 W
High Dynamic Power, Low-Impedance Drive Capability Yes
Dynamic Power/Channel 8 ohms 210 W
6 ohms 260 W
4 ohms 340 W
2 ohms 580 W

and here the HK 745:


Stereo Mode:
Continuous Average Power (FTC) per Channel : 100 Watts per channel @ <0.07% THD, 20Hz – 20kHz, both channels driven into 8 ohms.

Seven-Channel Surround Modes, Power per Individual Channel,
All Channels Operating at Full Power :     
Front L & R Channels :  85 Watts per channel @ <0.07% THD, 20Hz – 20kHz into 8 ohms 
Center Channel : 85 Watts @ <0.07% THD, 20Hz – 20kHz into 8 ohms 
Surround Channels (L & R Side, L & R Back) : 85 Watts per channel @ <0.07% THD, 20Hz – 20kHz into 8 ohms 
High Instantaneous Current Capability (HCC) :  ±60 Amps 
Power Consumption : 8.9W Standby, 130W Idle, 1,480W Max.

vs. integrated amps and tubes that youve mentioned above...




Ito na nga ang sinasabi ko....Sa AVR, sabihin pa natin na 250W/ch x 7.1  pa 'yan.  HINDI mo makukuha iyong full 250W/ch in full frequency-real world condition while driving all 7.1ch.  NO WAY on Earth Man na ma-enjoy mo fullest iyong sinasabi sa specs ng produkto.  Sabi ko nga rin, sa surround channels na lang, even if sabihin pa na 250W pa 'yan, baka 12-20W lang ang makuha mo.  Meron ba na surround channel in home theater application with an output drive of 250W....'dre WALA...Unless may real-size cinema ka sa loob ng bahay mo.  Isa pa, marketing hype iyong 250W surround mode, tingnan nga natin kung maito-todo mo iyong volume nang 250W AVR mo?  Baka hindi ka makatagal sa loob ng listening room mo at hindi na music kundi NOISE na!  Or baka ito iyong power na sinasabi mo sa akin....don't tell me huh, patay tayo dyan, packup na ako pag ganyan.  :D  What I'm saying is Power & Sound, not Power and Noise.

Base doon sa specs na inilagay mo dito sa post, hindi mo ba napansin na puro 250W or 100W per channel?  Pero hindi sinabi na 250W all channels driven?  Bro, magkaiba iyong 250W/ch sa 250Wx7.1 all channels driven simultaneously.   Muli ito iyong sinasabi ko sa iyo na full & honest disclosure ng power output, sa mga manufacturers ng AVR, always play safe sila.  Subukan mong i-drive lahat ng 7.1 channels nito (simultaneously) at i-lab test mo, tingnan natin kung talagang full 250W ang talagang lumalabas each of every channels?  Baka magulat ka kapag nasa +/- 150W ka na lang.  (note: Yamaha iyong 250W/ch, noticed na 170W na lang ito pagdating sa fronts at iyong HK-100W naging 85W/ch na lang pagdating din sa fronts nito.) 

Pag ganito, lalamunin ng 50W tube power iyong 85W HK mo.  Sa Yammy, ang sabi ay 250W Max. Power pero hindi sinabi na continuous. At noticed mo uli sa ibaba, ang nakalagay ay Dynamic range @ 8 ohms ay 210W na lang, kase ibinase ito doon sa fronts @ 8 ohms na 170W.  SO NASAAN IYONG SINASABI MO NA 250W/ch Output?..Sa papel lang 'yon 'dre he-he-he. :D Ikaw ang nagbigay nitong specs ng Yamaha, hindi ako? ;D

Rule of thumb, iba ang tube power sa AVR power.  Sa mga audiophiles and veterans in electronics....X3 ang tube power.  Ang 10-11 o'clock ng tube amp ay hamak na mas malakas sa -30dB ng AVR, itaga mo sa bato at totoo itong sinasabi ko.  Kung gusto mo, subukan mong pumunta sa mga tube dealers diyan sa Makati or Quezon City at i-audition mo iyong mga EL-34s nila tapos i-compare mo sa sinasabi mong 250W AVR.  Sound quality, sound definition, warmth and sonic impact makikita mo iyong tube amp ay way ahead sa AVR na sinasabi mo.  I will not further explain pa, better to audition head-to-head, and let your ears be the final verdict. (bilihin mo na lang iyong Marantz ko)  8)
« Last Edit: Jun 17, 2006 at 02:19 PM by Signal2Noise »
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Re: Choosing a Receiver
« Reply #115 on: Jun 17, 2006 at 05:28 PM »
Ito na nga ang sinasabi ko....Sa AVR, sabihin pa natin na 250W/ch x 7.1  pa 'yan.  HINDI mo makukuha iyong full 250W/ch in full frequency-real world condition while driving all 7.1ch.  NO WAY on Earth Man na ma-enjoy mo fullest iyong sinasabi sa specs ng produkto.  Sabi ko nga rin, sa surround channels na lang, even if sabihin pa na 250W pa 'yan, baka 12-20W lang ang makuha mo.  Meron ba na surround channel in home theater application with an output drive of 250W....'dre WALA...Unless may real-size cinema ka sa loob ng bahay mo.  Isa pa, marketing hype iyong 250W surround mode, tingnan nga natin kung maito-todo mo iyong volume nang 250W AVR mo?  Baka hindi ka makatagal sa loob ng listening room mo at hindi na music kundi NOISE na!  Or baka ito iyong power na sinasabi mo sa akin....don't tell me huh, patay tayo dyan, packup na ako pag ganyan.  :D  What I'm saying is Power & Sound, not Power and Noise.

Base doon sa specs na inilagay mo dito sa post, hindi mo ba napansin na puro 250W or 100W per channel?  Pero hindi sinabi na 250W all channels driven?  Bro, magkaiba iyong 250W/ch sa 250Wx7.1 all channels driven simultaneously.   Muli ito iyong sinasabi ko sa iyo na full & honest disclosure ng power output, sa mga manufacturers ng AVR, always play safe sila.  Subukan mong i-drive lahat ng 7.1 channels nito (simultaneously) at i-lab test mo, tingnan natin kung talagang full 250W ang talagang lumalabas each of every channels?  Baka magulat ka kapag nasa +/- 150W ka na lang.  (note: Yamaha iyong 250W/ch, noticed na 170W na lang ito pagdating sa fronts at iyong HK-100W naging 85W/ch na lang pagdating din sa fronts nito.) 

Pag ganito, lalamunin ng 50W tube power iyong 85W HK mo.  Sa Yammy, ang sabi ay 250W Max. Power pero hindi sinabi na continuous. At noticed mo uli sa ibaba, ang nakalagay ay Dynamic range @ 8 ohms ay 210W na lang, kase ibinase ito doon sa fronts @ 8 ohms na 170W.  SO NASAAN IYONG SINASABI MO NA 250W/ch Output?..Sa papel lang 'yon 'dre he-he-he. :D Ikaw ang nagbigay nitong specs ng Yamaha, hindi ako? ;D

Rule of thumb, iba ang tube power sa AVR power.  Sa mga audiophiles and veterans in electronics....X3 ang tube power.  Ang 10-11 o'clock ng tube amp ay hamak na mas malakas sa -30dB ng AVR, itaga mo sa bato at totoo itong sinasabi ko.  Kung gusto mo, subukan mong pumunta sa mga tube dealers diyan sa Makati or Quezon City at i-audition mo iyong mga EL-34s nila tapos i-compare mo sa sinasabi mong 250W AVR.  Sound quality, sound definition, warmth and sonic impact makikita mo iyong tube amp ay way ahead sa AVR na sinasabi mo.  I will not further explain pa, better to audition head-to-head, and let your ears be the final verdict. (bilihin mo na lang iyong Marantz ko)  8)

thanks for the info bro. may point ka at meron din naman sila sir aHobbit and sir avphile. meron kayong kanyang kanya opinion regarding this and all of it are good points pero syempre hindi naman lahat tama diba some how meron din discrepancies. meron lang ciguro tayong kanya kanya way on how to determine each and own distinctive audio gears.

bro I heard both of this AVR's specially the Z9 and all I can say is can rival most of the tubes ive heard at AMX. and about power handling, lets say its over marketed and hypes et al, but is there some firm that really measure's this rating? hindi naman ciguro ipupublish ng manufacturer ang given specs kung hindi totoo diba? rated in someway ciguro like rated one freq at 1w/1m that yamaha can achieve that 250w mark somehow. pero I do believe what youve said that 250w/ch is indeed impossible lalo na 7ch pa yun. coz galing din naman ako sa pro audio and I know a real 100w/ch amp. performs. pero still most thousand mark AVR can rival most tubes and integrated amp in terms of power. just me though...

pero iba pa rin ang tubes pure amplification kasi dyan agree tayong dalwa...       
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Re: Choosing a Receiver
« Reply #116 on: Jun 17, 2006 at 07:00 PM »
Have you ever thought of simplfying your home theater set-up using two-channel system both for video and audio?  An alternative was suggested by Mike Allen ( also of vacuum tube valley) in his website.
You might find the letter also interesting: 8)
A Letter Regarding Home Theater:
Whether one should go for surround sound or a two channel system for their audio/video
1. Why should someone contemplate the purchase of a "high quality" two channel system for $1000, $2000, or $3000 dollars etc. when they can purchase a complete home theater system for the same price?
Assume for a moment the complexity of reproducing a movie. The sound must integrate with the video on an emotional level and the sound itself is a wide range of material from music, to dialogue and ultimately car bombs. To choose a system fully capable of producing the dynamics of planes crashing into the side of mountains as well as the subtle nuances of a woman whispering the language of love into a child’s ear requires a quality system. Given this task, we believe a system needs to play music very well or as someone said, “If the system plays music right, it will play noise”.
In relating this concept of a high performance system to your question, we believe the goal of a “home theater audio system” is not the issue of whether it is two channel or 5.1, the issue is quality sound reproduction. The 5.1, or 7.1 system is more complex than a 2 channel system. A home theater system is made up of 14 discrete operating units (5 preamplifier/amplifier units, 6 speaker/ subwoofer units and 3 cable units) while a two channel system has 5 discrete operating units (2 preamplifier/amplifier units, 2 speaker units and 1 cable unit). At $1,000, the price invested per unit in a home theater system is $71 per unit while in a stereo system it is $200 per unit. At $3,000, it is $214 versus $600. We are not saying that a two channel is 3 times better than a comparably priced Home Theater System. We are suggesting that the higher investment per unit may yield a better sound. To be sure, the further up the comparable price scale you go, the quality issue between the two different systems diminishes.
In practice, the cheaper a unit, the lower the real wattage and the ability to handle a wide frequency range. I think most people would believe that you can get more speaker quality for $1200 a pair than $418 a pair in today’s market. One point most home theater people would make is the lack of a center channel and a subwoofer in a two channel system. A center channel is not necessarily required in a system that has a strong soundstage. One system that we use in house is a $580 JD 102A with a pair of $560 Mirage 590i’s and some cheap cable. With the speaker face positioned two inches beyond the TV front, many people believe there is a center channel operating. As for the subwoofer, a $200 subwoofer has its drawbacks. Given the drawbacks, are you enhancing sound or just giving the system a series of indiscriminate thumps and bumps? In the long run, are you better off with two speakers that provide a clear and fast but lighter bottom end? If the low extension is wanted, hook up a subwoofer to the two channel system. In the end, it is a matter of choices. There are people who find the $1,000 surround system acceptable where others want a sound alternative.
2. Why do you think so few people watch movies on two channel systems like you suggest? It seems to me it is like a lot of people feel that you have to either watch a video on a surround system or nothing at all.
I tend to think there are many people who have hooked up their video units to their existing stereo. Of course, I have no clear cut statistical information. In terms of antidotal information, we have customers who have hooked their stereos up to video units with good results. I am certain there are people who assume home theater requires a surround system. I am absolutely certain that people who are building a multi media room, 99.99999% require a surround system.
However, I believe that there is another reality which may be prevalent out on the market, people are confused. Given the different formats from CD players to Dolby (5.1, 6.1, 7.1, 9.1,10.2), equipment selection by the mass market customer is an exercise in bailing water out of a boat with a fork. There are people who do not even consider a two channel system when on the quest of the surround holy grail. There are other people who don’t want to be bothered with the complexities of a 5.1 and stick to the stereo format. Another group of people are waiting until the formats become clear, before they will enter the purchasing arena.
For us the issue is quite clear, try both a stereo and a surround sound in the retailers showroom, the individual can determine the right sound for them.
3. Perhaps you could expand briefly on your recommendation of two channel systems "based on context" and also your company's general philosophy.
Hard question to answer briefly. Let me give a little bit of background in terms of philosophy. We think the average individual is not just looking for home theater whose sole purpose is volumes of 85 dB and up with an agitated subwoofer caving in your chest. We believe that most people are looking for home entertainment systems that will be used for music and movies. Starting from this point, the context becomes:
Price: We do believe that at lower prices you can get a better buck bang for the sound in a two channel system. This is just a matter of economic physics where the question is “do a few higher grade components outperform a larger number of cheaper components?” I think that our defense department subscribes to the quality over quantity approach although I have never heard a $26 million sound system.
Physical constraints: Not all of us are fortunate to have multi media rooms to which we can retire to with cigars and brandy.  Many audio video systems are placed in bedrooms or family rooms that are not conducive to the physical requirements of a surround sound system. For example, the typical family room in the middle atlantic states is attached to the kitchen and has three walls taken up by the fireplace, exit to the outdoors and exit to the kitchen. The usual course of events is to position furniture to the fireplace as opposed to the solid wall. So the audio/video ends up in the corner. It is difficult to put a 5.1 system starting from a corner. In addition, for condo or apartment dwellers with limited space, a 5.1 system may not fit and the thumping subwoofer may not be a popular aspect with the neighbors. In essence the physical attributes of the dwelling may be conducive to a two channel system.
Utility: As mentioned earlier, many people want a home entertainment system. Put in that light, two channel can do well in the matter of utility when there is a limited budget. A few higher grade components can give you linearity in the system. Simply put, you can play soft, you can play medium or you can play loud. With the differential in sound volume of 15dB to 30dB between the car bombs and dialogue, this can pose a practical problem. It is 11 p.m. and people are sleeping in the house. One gentleman told me “thank God for the remote, at least I can tone down the explosions and then turn up for the voices without leaving my chair.” I asked why he did this, his response was, “You haven’t met my wife coming out of the bedroom in the late night.” With linearity found in tube amps (manufacturer’s marketing pitch), you can play at whisper levels and still have proportion and clarity. At mid levels a good system should have air and body. This is where women and children usually like the level. At high volumes, a good system should not punish you with harshness.
Could this be snob appeal? I don’t know if audio video is better on a $20,000 triode stereo system or a surround system. I have heard both, I prefer the triode, it really does sound excellent.
4. Do you think that there is a reluctance in the "high end" community to embrace home theater and why do you think that is?
I would like to say that there are many audiophiles who have and enjoy home theater systems. In terms of economics, I think people with $20,000 of disposable income will be more disposed to purchase a surround system than a stereo system. I think that there is a portion of the high end community that has not fully embraced surround sound for a number of reasons.
Relevance as opposed to reluctance: Many people I know enjoy listening to music as opposed to watching video. It is a matter of media preference as opposed to a rejection of surround sound.
The physical effect: Many audiophiles are not impressed with the physical sound attributes of a surround system. Prior to experiencing my first Home theater, I watched TV for 20 years with built in 3 inch speakers. My introduction to Home theater was a tricked out Meridian system playing some action movie. The only reaction out of my jello reduced body was a squeaky voice saying, “wrap it up, I wanna take this home”. However, audiophiles listening to top flight sound systems are not making the light speed jump from 3 inch speakers to video nirvana. In this respect, their knowledge and experience of sound, even at high volumes do not engender the initial physical impact I had. Thus, they are more critical of the operating characteristics of a surround sound system.
The naturalness of the sound: I think that many audiophiles do not enjoy the presentation of the sound. This becomes more apparent on a music video than a movie. First, there is a low end that is pumping out at a 16dB elevated level, making a kettle drum equivalent to the start signal for Armageddon. Second, the placement of the sound, such that the chorus or the lead guitar are coming out of the back speakers while the musicians are in front of you on the TV screen appears out of place. If the audiophile has been weaned on the natural sound of a triode system, they may not readily embrace surround sound.
The last issue is the format: Many audiophiles believe that surround is in its infancy (many think CDs are just starting to be listenable). They assume that the final formats and their attendant improvements will take years to accomplish. Until that time, they will keep their respective systems.
 
« Last Edit: Jun 17, 2006 at 07:20 PM by Voltes_5 »
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Offline bumblebee

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Re: Choosing a Receiver
« Reply #117 on: Jun 17, 2006 at 07:48 PM »
...
Rule of thumb, iba ang tube power sa AVR power.  Sa mga audiophiles and veterans in electronics....X3 ang tube power.

...

Kung walang clipping at malinis pareho, n ss watts = n tube watts. Watt is watt is watt.
« Last Edit: Jun 17, 2006 at 07:48 PM by bumblebee »

Offline Signal2Noise

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Re: Choosing a Receiver
« Reply #118 on: Jun 17, 2006 at 08:31 PM »
Kung walang clipping at malinis pareho, n ss watts = n tube watts. Watt is watt is watt.

Correct ka diyan, Watt is Watt.  But i-compare mo iyong 2ch/stereo amp @ 11 o'clock against sa 5 or 7.1 AVR setup at the same dial (-40 or -30dB)?  Dito ang pinag-uusapan natin ay Stereo/Pure Audio sound.  Unless i-audition mo head-to-head, hindi mo matutukoy itong sinasabi ko kung totoo.  Better to listen.... 8)
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Re: Choosing a Receiver
« Reply #119 on: Jun 17, 2006 at 09:34 PM »
Kung walang clipping at malinis pareho, n ss watts = n tube watts. Watt is watt is watt.

Ang ibig sabihin ciguro ni signal2noise is matter of sonic performances hindi lang in terms of power, kasi for him he rely on rated power vs. metered ouput watt per watt, For him a pure amplification such as the tube amp is much powerful than ss amp. As you can see he reads it on volume level in terms of power.

Bro signal, we are not new to this area. so we know the technicalities, we do not say your findings and conclusions are wrong, there’s no argument on that. But the reasoning of different “audiophiles” are definitive. So yung test and information mo is correct based on your interpretations. Pero sa iba meron din silang manner of understanding on how to find the comparison of each audio gears.

Ang nagiging loop holes or argument lang naman dito is yung interpretation mo na a “30-50 watts tube amp is much powerful than a thousand mark 100W AVR” actually kung ianalaze mo maige walang argument dahil on the first place your comparing a multichannel amp on a 2 ch amp only. Pero kung pag babasihan mo ay yung stereo mode lang nung avr vs. dun sa integrated or tube amp mo, well theres a different argument. why? Yung AVR and integrated amp in the first place has coloration and processing na nangyayari before goin sa output stage, unlike sa tube na input amplification then output. Walang coloration so thus what you are hearing is pure signal. And the sonics are much better dahil full signal no coloration. But in terms of power output. It’s a different rating. coz if you based it on power rating "not" the sonic performances. watt is watt is watt.

So you see magkakaiba tayo ng manner of understanding, that makes us definitive. Magkakaiba pag dating sa areas. Hindi ko rin naman sinasabi na 100% tama ako. Pero yun ang understanding ko. So by exchanging information and ideas makes us learn and expand more on this area.                     
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