Topic: 1st setup

[schlamm]

hello everyone!

I just bought myself a 2.0-channel system and I'm currently burning it in.

Specs are: Onkyo 503 and DM602 S3 w/ Nobelle High Fidelity wires; no interconnects

I have questions though on how to improve my system so that I could enjoy it even better and get its money's worth.

I want to know if I could to bi-wiring with my AVR since my speakers are already bi-wireable. I also read in some articles that having a Speaker A/B switch (which my AVR have) is good for bi-wiring since I can use the other channel for LF or HF. Or should I stick to the standard bi-wire method?

I also need to know if the wires that I'm using are adequate, the length I am using is 3 meters for each channel but my placement does not require such long cables. Can I shorten my cables and expect better sound? My wires don't have interconnects, they are just bare, do I really need interconnects? Will there be difference in sound production?

By the way, my source is my PC through my Creative Audigy 2 ZS soundcard via SPDIF. It uses a 1/8" baby plug which I connected via 1/8" male baby plug to coaxial (mono cable; gold plated).

[qguy]

Specs are: Onkyo 503 and DM602 S3 w/ Nobelle High Fidelity wires; no interconnects,

You mean No terminations, using bare wire only. Interconnect is the term used for cables to connect a source like a CD to your amp. in your case a PC to an amp

there are two camps when it comes to terminations, one is spades, the second is bare wire. Both have its advantages over the other. I myself go with bare wire.

Bi-wire...same thing some say may difference, some say wala.

Get to know your system first, then start thinking of tweaking after a month or so. Changing components like interconnect cables and speaker cables do very little to the system compared to say changing the loudspeakers, at this stage (burn in period) you might not even notice any difference when using different amps  , let alone bi-wire

[av_phile1]

For, the only advantage of bi-wiring is to effectively double the wire gauge.  I bi-wire if only for that.

3m isn't a problem for speaker cables.  The important thing to remember is to increase the gauge as you go longer.  And if as you say, 3m is not necessary as you can go shorter,  then having a shorter cable run for any cable length is always better, not that it really matters at those lengths. 

[schlamm]

I see, so i have no terminations. Sorry about that.

I could use my excess cables if I really want to bi-wire this system. My system will be a month old next week.  Maybe I should give it another month for a complete burn-in, don't you think? Then after that, I could experiment with a bi-wire setup after my burn-in period.

I also need to know if there is any difference if I set my AVR to 4-ohms instead of 6-ohms (current setting). Will there be any difference? In black and white it shows that lower ohm rating (or is it higher?) have more power rating to give for my speakers which can handle a minimum of 3-ohms (8-ohms max).

[av_phile1]

Maximum power transfer is achieved between amp and speaker if their load impedances agree with each other.  Using a lower impedance than what the amp sees will tax the amp to deliver more current for a lower load (Ohm's law).  If the amp is rated at a 4-ohm loads or lower, then fine.  The speaker's load rating won't matter, it's the ability of the amp to drive low loads that will matter. 

[schlamm]

Ok, so I guess it's okay for my AVR to drive my speakers at 4-ohms since my speakers can handle that load and my AVR can aswell.

[av_phile1]

Speakers don't handle loads,  they are the load itself.  Just be guided by the nominal impedance rating of your speakers.  Not its range.  If it's 8 ohms, then setting the amp to 4 ohms will actually make it sound weaker. 

[schlamm]

Okay, after checking the manual I noticed that the nominal ohm rating is 8 yet my AVR can go upto 6-ohms. I guess 6-ohms is the best setting for my system.

[av_phile1]

No problem.  Actually 6-ohm ratings are quite common in many AVR makers in order to give a higher power reading on specs while at the same time conforming with U/L (Underwriter Laboratories) standards for acceptable heat dissipation in homes.  It's a compromise of sorts.  You get a higher power measurement using lower than 8 ohms, but not dissipate that much heat when using 4 ohms.  6ohm rating makes the marketing department happy.   So your 8 ohms speakers will be just fine with your 6-ohm rated AVR.   

[schlamm]

Thanks for teaching me these stuff. It's hard to find good explanations on the net these days. There's too much hits on Google.