i have been reading threads and asking people about my combo, wanted to read and hear more oandagdag sa kaalaman, few questions po
1. What do you mean by forward sounding?
2. Laidback and warm are of the same meaning, yung parang di sya makalansing tama po ba?
3. Whats op am rolling? I raed a thread given to me by a good friend pdvd too but dumugo ilong ko eh yung
simpleng explanation lang po di kaya ng powers ko hahahaha.
4. I have a NAD 325 BEE and NAD 525 BEE combo hooked to a DIAMOND 9.5 speaker, what else can i do to
unleash the full potential of this set up without spending too much?
TIA sa lahat.
1. It's not necessarily "bright" in terms of ear-shattering high freqs, they just tend to happen together very often. "Forward" refers more to the overall presentation of the sound. In some cases a "forward" system is also "bright" in tonality because the tweets not only push the soundstage of some instruments forward, particularly the vocals, but does so via a more efficient and unfettered (by crossover or gain circuit) tweeter. "Bright" also is not necessarily "sybillant;" you can have a dark-sounding system with ear-piercing reproduction of cymbals, "t" and "s" sounds, etc, due to room acoustics and phase issues.
2. Not necessarily, they jsut tend to hapen together. Just reverse the point I made in #1. If you hear my systems (particularly my car's) my preference for "balance" is that the presentation is forward, and tonality is either neutral or on the warm side. This way the vocals are forward, the guitars close behind, drums noticeably to the back and the cymbals lacking the excessive extension some hard-core followers of Paradigm, Focal and Grado like. Thing is, I only hear that sort of cymbal sound when Im in the front 3 rows or so, and you can add the bass drum kicking you in the chest to that. After that there are enough bodies in front of me to dampen the cymbals and bass drum.
3. In brief, op-amps are what makes the sound of an active analog output (aside form the circuit design of course). Think of it as performing the job a DAC does for the digital side, or an IC does for preamps and amps. Change it and depends on the circuit you may do better or worse. Don't mistake this to be as flexible with DAC and IC chips though.
4. A lot of tweaks are available. You can replace cables and capacitors. Of all the components, I say you start with the internal wiring of your 9.5's, plus upgrade the caps to Mundorf M-Caps (most cost-efficient; you can hear the difference spending only 1/3 of the next Mundorf line). After this you can get analog interconnects. You don't need to get "branded" expensive cables, you can make do with a good pro-grade bulk cable like Belden and a good set of plugs like Amphenol or Eichman. Or if you don't have a lot of interference, these plugs can terminate conductors like AU24's or JojoD's silver conductors. In any case whatever you do don't upgrade the speaker cables without tweaking hte internal wiring. Branded speaker cables cost a lot, especially for terminated runs (and that's what I'd pay for), but the stock internal cables can be a chokepoint.
