Author Topic: Speaker DIY'ers (Read 308519 times)

Gino · « **Reply #870 on:** Jun 26, 2014 at 10:46 AM »

I'll mount the hardware na and break this in. I really need to rest. Masyadong ganado past few days.

Mukhang intricate ang speakers ni RXV. Hindi simple box. Boy I can't imagine working on a large enclosure. The challenge I had was making accurate cuts. Bigger panels will be more demanding.

Gino · « **Reply #871 on:** Jun 26, 2014 at 03:36 PM »

Backs were glued. Next up drilling for hardware.

JoeyGS · « **Reply #872 on:** Jun 26, 2014 at 04:38 PM »

Nice progress!

Which panel is removable to allow internal stuffing adjustments?

Gino · « **Reply #873 on:** Jun 26, 2014 at 04:51 PM »

The back panel has light adhesive. The speakers sound great as is. I might keep it this way. I'll see after break-in if it needs tuning. The sound is more revealing and dynamic than my Denons SCM51. Higher headroom which accounts for more realism. Much more air than my stock Fostex FE167E without supertweeters. Bass is adequate with a sub. I can do without a sub for casual ambient listening.

deist · « **Reply #874 on:** Jun 26, 2014 at 05:02 PM »

I would also suggest a removable panel.drivers (esp FRs) reveal their true character after more than a hundred hours & adjustment in stuffing will allow you to tweak nuances in the sound & experiment

Gino · « **Reply #875 on:** Jun 26, 2014 at 05:05 PM »

Yup, no problem with that.

deist · « **Reply #876 on:** Jun 26, 2014 at 05:10 PM »

Gino, tell us what finish you have in mind for this

Gino · « **Reply #877 on:** Jun 26, 2014 at 05:14 PM »

I want some kind of wood finish. I like its distressed look. At the same time, I want the finish to be able to accept a vinyl laminate if I decide on that instead.

deist · « **Reply #878 on:** Jun 26, 2014 at 07:53 PM »

^ cool!

timber715 · « **Reply #879 on:** Jun 26, 2014 at 08:02 PM »

Seems nakalabas ng konti driver face, tama ba brader?

Gino · « **Reply #880 on:** Jun 26, 2014 at 08:21 PM »

Yup. Flush mounted. Keeping things simple.

JojoD818 · « **Reply #881 on:** Jun 26, 2014 at 09:06 PM »

congrats! natunog na pala yan... enjoy the calm after the build storm.

first dibs ako sa Denon ha...

markcrenz · « **Reply #882 on:** Jun 26, 2014 at 09:20 PM »

Quote from: Gino on Jun 26, 2014 at 08:21 PM

Yup. Flush mounted. Keeping things simple.

Wouldn't that be surface mounted?

Quote from: timber715 on Jun 26, 2014 at 08:02 PM

Seems nakalabas ng konti driver face, tama ba brader?

Gino · « **Reply #883 on:** Jun 26, 2014 at 09:38 PM »

It was just a plain hole for the speaker. The mount just laid flat on it.

RXV · « **Reply #884 on:** Jun 26, 2014 at 09:38 PM »

Quote from: deist on Jun 26, 2014 at 05:02 PM

I would also suggest a removable panel.drivers (esp FRs) reveal their true character after more than a hundred hours & adjustment in stuffing will allow you to tweak nuances in the sound & experiment

If I were in Gino's shoes, I would make the bookshelf as is: without a removable back panel.

The bookshelf is so small, you could easily put in stuffing from the front hole naman if needed. That way, solidly sealed ang enclosure, and without those pesky mutliple screws at the back. para buo na ang veneer

I made my Pensil without a removable back panel, well, sort of. I'll show them next time

And yes I agree, FR's need a lot of break-in time and stuffing is very useful in fine tuning the overall sound characteristics of the speaker.

RXV · « **Reply #885 on:** Jun 26, 2014 at 09:41 PM »

Quote from: Gino on Jun 26, 2014 at 09:38 PM

It was just a plain hole for the speaker. The mount just laid flat on it.

I think that particular Fostex driver doesn't need to be flush mounted as I've read somewhere in diyaudio.
I also seen that driver being mounted on floorstanders such as the frugal horn mk3. And I don't think they flush mount(ed) them.

Gino · « **Reply #886 on:** Jun 26, 2014 at 09:52 PM »

I agree with accessibility through the speaker hole. Abot ng kamay ang bawat sulok.

Magtatagal ako sa block sanding he he. Wala akong sander.

RXV · « **Reply #887 on:** Jun 26, 2014 at 09:57 PM »

Quote from: Gino on Jun 26, 2014 at 09:52 PM

I agree with accessibility through the speaker hole. Abot ng kamay ang bawat sulok.

Magtatagal ako sa block sanding he he. Wala akong sander.

Get ready, that's where the real fun (and sweat) begins haha

Gino · « **Reply #888 on:** Jun 26, 2014 at 09:59 PM »

May tennis elbow na nga ako he he.

deist · « **Reply #889 on:** Jun 27, 2014 at 09:49 AM »

Oo nga naman you can access the internals via speaker hole because this is surface mounted, if this is flush mounted you'd be singing a different tune, it's difficult to remove a flush mounted driver after a while dahil kumapit na & very easy to damage the drivers trying to get it out

arbitrage · « **Reply #890 on:** Jun 27, 2014 at 11:03 AM »

Quote from: Gino on Jun 26, 2014 at 04:51 PM

The back panel has light adhesive. The speakers sound great as is. I might keep it this way. I'll see after break-in if it needs tuning. The sound is more revealing and dynamic than my Denons SCM51. Higher headroom which accounts for more realism. Much more air than my stock Fostex FE167E without supertweeters. Bass is adequate with a sub. I can do without a sub for casual ambient listening.

Nice!

Ang Cute....

More sound descriptions upon break in please.

How do you tune a diy speaker box to a certain low frequency?

(I keep hearing to tune "this box" to "number" hz)

Gino · « **Reply #891 on:** Jun 27, 2014 at 11:32 AM »

Stuffings, liners, deadeners, diameter and length of ports all affect how sound is produced. While theories exists, it's really tuning by ear.

The main tuning is by design. Box internal volume, structure, port dimensions if any.

In my case I talked with full range guru Bob Brines of Fostex MLTL fame. He suggested this box. 5 liters, tuned to 100hz. The smoothens the midrange up. I built it to the letter and the result is fantastic.

deist · « **Reply #892 on:** Jun 27, 2014 at 12:45 PM »

Gino, take a look at these pensils, these are stained plywood. could be an inspiration for your finish

Gino · « **Reply #893 on:** Jun 27, 2014 at 03:12 PM »

Thanks. I will buy the stain & finish next week and experiment on scraps.

deist · « **Reply #894 on:** Jun 27, 2014 at 03:39 PM »

^ fixed the link

Gino · « **Reply #895 on:** Jun 27, 2014 at 03:43 PM »

I suppose the final appearance is a wait and see. it depends on how the wood will absorb the stain. I am hoping the puttied areas won't deviate much in shade. Anyway I am so happy with the sound that looks comes secondary now.

deist · « **Reply #896 on:** Jun 27, 2014 at 03:58 PM »

I agree, sound quality will always go first before aesthetics. I'm also hoping in the future with the right amount of accumulated knowledge in woodworking & speaker building I can harmonize both

Quote from: Gino on Jun 27, 2014 at 03:43 PM

I suppose the final appearance is a wait and see. it depends on how the wood will absorb the stain. I am hoping the puttied areas won't deviate much in shade. Anyway I am so happy with the sound that looks comes secondary now.

markcrenz · « **Reply #897 on:** Jun 28, 2014 at 08:22 AM »

Quote from: deist on Jun 27, 2014 at 09:49 AM

Oo nga naman you can access the internals via speaker hole because this is surface mounted, if this is flush mounted you'd be singing a different tune, it's difficult to remove a flush mounted driver after a while dahil kumapit na & very easy to damage the drivers trying to get it out

I'd worry more about the effects of diffraction than the miniscule effect of stuffing a small sealed box.

deist · « **Reply #898 on:** Jun 28, 2014 at 10:07 AM »

When I was researching about full range drivers I have encountered quite a few articles & forum threads stating that diffraction is common on surface mounted drivers, that's why flush mounting the driver is not just for aesthetic purposes. But Bob Brines who has worked with Fostex drivers for decades attests that there is little or no benefit at all in flush mounting Fostex drivers since they were designed by the engineers that way. On the other hand, some say that a good way to address diffraction for surface mounted drivers is to line the baffle wall (around the drivers) with thick felt, hence my suggestion for a removable panel, would be easier to experiment later on.

The box is ported not sealed, the small whole below the driver is the port/vent. I wouldn't call the effect of stuffing as minuscule, having played with stuffing I could say that the effect on the overall sound is significant to a point that the before & after will give you a set of complete opposite emotions

quote author=markcrenz link=topic=22682.msg2139608#msg2139608 date=1403914962]
I'd worry more about the effects of diffraction than the miniscule effect of stuffing a small sealed box.
[/quote]

arbitrage · « **Reply #899 on:** Jun 28, 2014 at 08:57 PM »

Is there a definitive book or resource manual for the design of full range speakers and their enclosures and basic theory on them?