Hi guys, about to "graduate" from stereo to HT surround. My brother is shipping me his gaming PC rig through a balikbayan box,1 so I casually mentioned I might do a surround sound set-up for it given I'm for the most part satisfied with my 2.0 set-up by now. At that point he volunteered a few Amazon/Visa gift cards left over from Christmas and from clients throughout the year to get me an A/V receiver, just to get me started before they end up panic-buying(swapping) restaurant gift cards just before they expire,2 and I've so far narrowed down my choice to the following:
TX-SR313, $199
Pros : Real cheap - I think it can read audio formats I'm likely to find on movie copies I'll get on current HD format
Cons : Only $30+$25 more for all those features on the NR414, cheap spring clips
TX-NR414, $229+$25 USB dongle
Pros : Network capabilities, Android (have an S3) and iOS (also an iPad2) remote
Cons : All those firmware and HDMI board issues discussed on threads that came up after using Google
TX-NR509, $255+$25 USB dongle
Pros : Network capabilities, Android and iOS remote, no mention of the same issues on the 2012 models
Cons : Features/specs-wise looks like the older version of the NR414, for $25 more
AVR-1513, $250
Pros : Discrete amplifier design (more on this below)
Cons : Cheap spring clips, no network/remote apps but might not be that important
Usage, by from highest to lowest in terms of...
i. Time to be spent doing, hypothetically : 40% Games3 ; 30% Movies4 ; 25% concerts and TV series (on DVD/BR/digital download), 5% background music5
ii. Importance : 40% Movies, 40% concerts, 20% Games - I'm less likely to nitpick about sound when of thundering sound of cavalry when I'm more worried about it coming from behind or heading for my flanks, which I think even a motherboard soundcard can produce spatially, if not tonally full
Notes
1. Amplifier design : Is "discrete amplifier" and "WRAT" all that different? One's a topology, but given how good gain clone speaker amps are and my current main system's headphone amp uses Class A-biased LM6171's and it's quiet, transparent and dynamic - with later amps still suing the same basic design with different opamps - I can't discriminate based on topology alone. The other basically means "high current." Either way - doesn't the Onkyo use a 'discrete amp' too? Conversely, if it doesn't, would this particular discrete design, if at least in theory, trump WRAT for dynamic sound?
Reviews (not all comparisons) I found off Google that talk about any variances in driving capability aren't any more informative than the marketing fluff. I can't find them now but some said Denon for movies, Onkyo for music but thin and lacked dynamics in movies (but some refer to other models, so it gets even more confusing).
2. Speaker matching : Although I won't be spending any more on my 2ch rig for a while I'd still rather not blow a lot of cash on this. Anyone encounter any issues with these or comparable older models driving Wharfedale Diamonds? Looking into getting a used set of Diamond 9 or 10 - not necessarily dipoles at the rears, more important is to have the mains with matched centers (and matched color). Sub will follow much later, might customize it.
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So basically, is there reason to suppose the Denon would be noticeably better (or looking at it another way, would the Onkyo be audibly worse) driving Wharfedale Diamonds or similar speakers playing music/concerts, and is it enough to overlook the spring clips and lack of network capabilities?
And given I'm only starting in HT, despite all these years in 2ch audio - am I not putting any attention into other details, like signal processing and compatibility with current formats, etc? I expect newer ones to come out, but I'd at least like to keep the receiver for as long as possible barring 1) equipment failure or 2) compatible formats are no longer available.
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1He's done this twice before as they're near impossible to sell in the US if you don't trust Craigslist, and save for the gfx card and CPU cooler coming off one of them, they all got here fine - he's since learned to stuff pack the gfx card and CPU cooler separately
2So basically let's do away with 110v vs 220v or local warranty vs cheap abroad replies; I live alone and there's no way anyone's plugging it in without me, nor would warranty be absolutely important given I'm getting it free and only n this way
3Mostly Total War series, RTS where I think surround might if not enhance gaming performance, enhance the experience; but some action, FPS, sports and racing sometimes
4Mostly action/epic
5No need for Zone 2, I can leave the door open ; remote apps a nice bonus though[/i