PinoyDVD: The Pinoy Digital Video & Devices Community
Home Theater => Audio => Speakers => Topic started by: Mika on Apr 04, 2002 at 02:52 AM
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Have you tried modifying your speakers? Like changing the spikes/feet, for example. What do you recommend for speaker spikes? Can you please share other tweaks that enhanced the sound of your speakers. Thanks :) !
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Have you tried modifying your speakers? Like changing the spikes/feet, for example. What do you recommend for speaker spikes? Can you please share other tweaks that enhanced the sound of your speakers. Thanks :) !
Hello Mika,
From my personal experience, adding metal spikes raises the soundstage a tad. It makes the image hanging just in front of you. For some weird reason, the detail are also more audible. Without the metal spikes before, it sounded "fatter" but the image is lower and details are more confused.
I recommend metal spikes. As always, it is equipment independent.
One other refinement you can do is to fill up your speaker stands with sand or metal filings! This I heard improves bass. The rule of thumb is the stand must be at least 2x heavier than the speaker's net weight. The heavier you can achieve the stand the better in ratio with the speakers the more defined the bass will be. Just my 2 cents. :) ENJOY YOUR AUDIO!
Manila
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Thanks Manila, for your suggestions. I'll try the metal spikes (saan kaya sa 'Manila' maka-bili nito :) ?). I'll see if I can have it customed made.
Hey guys, anymore tweaks out there?
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Also put tack between your speaker and your speaker stand. It tightens mids and lows a tad. Not night and day.
If you don't hear it, at least your speakers are safer tacked to the stand. :)
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I also placed Blue Tack (not the orig, I got mine at SM for only P20. I think its called Power Tack) between the speakers and the stands. IMHO, it helped improved focus / imaging.
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I also placed Blue Tack (not the orig, I got mine at SM for only P20. I think its called Power Tack) between the speakers and the stands. IMHO, it helped improved focus / imaging.
Hi M_Shoe_Maker!
Where inside SM did you get that 'Power Tack'?
Can you remove it easily when you want to? TY! :)
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MeowPao,
I got those years ago. If I'm not mistaken it was SM Southmall's Ace hardware / Workshop.
It looks identical to those expensive Blue Tack. What I noticed though is that after a couple of years, when you want to take it off, it kinda gets "gooey" unlike the real Blue Tack, but it was still manageable. Considering the price, OK lang yung "gooey" problem.
I'm not sure if SM still has it though.
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Thanks M_shoe_maker. :)
I've been looking all over for that Blue Tack. Sige, I'll go off to Ace to look for Power Tack... :)
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Hey guys! How about the center speaker? Normally, they are made without feet. Have you tried out something to enhance its focus? Would the tack work?
Thanks for your help :) .
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as long as your speakers are out of warranty, the best mods i tried w/ speakers are :
1. changing the internal wiring with high grade cables.
2. changing the crossover capacitors.
3. adding damping materials inside the speaker box.
4. adding bi-wire posts (for unbiwirable spkrs)
but these are only done w/ speakers with potential good sound. it's hard to improve the perf of bad sounding spkrs.
also a sound advice on all buyers of brand new spkrs,
be patient, they need breaking-in.
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I've read that replacing the screw washers (the flat round thing used in combination with the screw) that hold the drivers will improve the sound quality of your speakers. Even adding on more of the washers will improve the sound. The kind (copper, stainless, etc.) and quantity will depend on your sound preference. Ewan ko lang, but I don't see the logic/science behind this tweak :) .
Hey Hyperaudio, can you modify / upgrade the DAC of my laserdisc? This is the one I used for audio listening, kasi ok daw transport nito, stable. Thanks!!
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Power Tack can be bought at National Bookstore. That's where I bought mine.
hyperaudio, you are a tube/tweak meister, right? Would you do the tweaks you suggested (wire replacement, capacitor upgrade, cabinet damping) for a fee? If yes, how much?
In your experience, which brands/models deliver the greatest improvements with the tweaks?
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Here's a site about speaker tweak:
http://www.tnt-audio.com/casse/speaktweak_e.html
I tried to paste the whole article di pala pwede. Its too long. Hope this help. :)
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Anyone did the spike and sand filling on the diamond 8.3 and had good results? Doing the sand thing on a tannoy Mx3 does wonders for the bass, much tighter now(probably due to less vibration from the cabinet)
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I'm also looking for Speaker Spikes! Anybody here knows where to buy?
thanks!
silhouette
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bump
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Anyone did the spike and sand filling on the diamond 8.3 and had good results? Doing the sand thing on a tannoy Mx3 does wonders for the bass.
I must be tone deaf, I hardly noticed any sonic difference mass loading my floorstanding Mordaunt Short. For sure there was less cabinet vibration - a desirable trait in speaker enclosures.
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my center channel speaker is a little bit higher so i put 3m rubber bump at the rear end so the speaker will tilt , facing downward. improves imaging. :D
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Don't know if i should ask this here or in the speaker thread, But how do you compensate for a main front speaker system that uses 1st order crossover that is 90 degree phase shifted? If the center speaker uses 2nd order crossover which is 180 degree phase shifted, that means your main speakers are minus 90 degrees out of phase with the center, right?
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Get a new pair? :)
The only ones with custom crossovers are pro-audio speakers with an outboard crossover.
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I think it's chepaer to get a new center speaker that has 1st order crossover. Actually, I think the ears are less sensitive to phase shifts than to harmonic distortion. Am just mentally bothered by the knowledge that my fronts don't share the same phase alignment.
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try this guys!
put a marble slab (same size as your speakers) on top of your speakers this will prevent any movement of speakers even when your playing at very high volume
stero imaging will be stabilized and youll hear the difference immediately. this kinda mass load the speaker/stand
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Guyz... may nahanap kasi akong 2 lumang speaker sa bodega, eh pwede kaya itong i-upgrade. mga 80's pa ito binili.
Dai-Ichi ang tatak.. ito ang nakasulat sa likod nya.
"3-way miniatures speaker system with power level indicator- 6ohms - 60 watts"
tinesting ko nga siya.. medyo may pagka tunog lata.. pero ayos naman.. pero pag tinodo ko na.. para na siyang umiiyak na baby... hehe... may paraan pa ba na pag upgrade nito.. or mas makaka tipid ba ako kung bibili ng bagong speaker.. sayang naman kasi ito eh.. kahoy talaga yung gilid..
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try mo dalhin sa dai-ichi showroom sa megamall 5th level
(bldg b yata)
ang alam ko lifetime warranty ang dai-ichi, ke may resibo o wala.
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1980's pa ito.. gusto ko lang sanang ayusin ito ulit.. para gawing kong front.. i dont think tatangapin pa nila ito. mga expert dyan advice naman po.. :)
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need ur comment please.. mga bosing. :-\
dre kahit luma na yan basta gawa ng dai-ichi sakop yan ng warranty nila. kung hindi nila maayos yana malay mo palitan nila ng bago. ;D no harm in trying. try mo muna tumawag sa kanila. may showroom sila sa megamall 5th flr bldg B. malay mo palitan nila ng drivers yan. then yung driver lang babayaran mo.
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i got a pair of old locally made flrstanding speakers bought 7yrs ago at DEECO. i was about to dispose it when i decided to experiment some of the tweaks discussed here. first, i separated the connection of the woofer to the mid driver and tweeter, creating a separate wire for the woofer to the receiver (parang labas,,biwired sha ;D.)
inside the speaker, very loose ang padding nya... kaya nilagyan ko ng half-inch thick padding materials (yung ginagamit na padding sa carpet-- ;D)in all the internal sides of the box. then, i change the connection of the mid driver and tweeter from parallel to series.
when i turned my receiver on, i was then expecting my receiver to blow ::) but after several minutes, i began to :) :) :) then ;D ;D ;D kasi the bass had become richer and louder. i pumped more power expecting an overload, kasi i was really not sure of the overall impedance of the speaker, but fortunately di pa naman nag-ooverload receiver ko ,, hehe until now, the speaker is still treating me goood! kaya as of now, napamahal na ako sa lumang speakers ko-- ;D
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wow naks guys.. kanina i thought my post was deleted, yun pala nilagay lang dito.. salamat admin.. and guyz for the help. this site is very cool! ;D
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1980's pa ito.. gusto ko lang sanang ayusin ito ulit.. para gawing kong front.. i dont think tatangapin pa nila ito. mga expert dyan advice naman po.. :)
try nirvblakr (a member here), they make their own speakers, maybe he can help you. send him a pm..
consider the cost of repairing this 80's speaker. imho, you're better off in buying 2nd hand ones.
just my 2 cents ;)
8)
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Replacing the drivers of a 3-way 60-watt 6-ohm speaker system can be a learning experience if you can get the right drivers. Most likely, you won;t get 6 ohms as most raw drivers and crossovers are either 4 or 8 ohms. I don;t suppose the drivers are any bigger than 8 inches. Based on the retail prices of those raw 40 watt daichi drivers and crossovers i've seen in one local shop, you could spend around 2T. With regards to the sound quality, in the absence of any measuring instrument or compensating circuit for the varying frequency repsonses of the 3 drivers, you can just cross your fingers. One suggestion is to at least make sure that the drivers have the same sensitivity. Just my thoughts.
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Is your loudspeakers/system too bright ?
Heres an el- cheapo tweak that I have done before with my KEF and Kenwood amp
cover the tweeter with tissue paper....experiment with the number of sheets...have fun !!!
may not work for all systems...but heck...its just tissue paper your wasting....
NOTE: Save some tissue paper...you'll never know when you REALLY need some
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ok yun a, ma try nga ! 1 ply or 2 ply/ hehehe !
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My experience indicates that brightness usually results from a peaking in the 2K to 6K frequency ranges. This is often caused by uncompensated crossovers where both midrange and tweeters deliver frequencies around the crossover point that add up in amplitude to make the sound in that region more prominent. Putting an absorptive material over the tweeter can tame the brightness. But it can also roll-off the frequencies above 6k, giving less instrumental detail. The better solution here is to tweak the crossover dividing network. Just my 2 cents.
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yup..this is true..
but the tissue paper tweak wont cost you 2 cents...hehehehehe
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Hi guys! I learned that some of the guys here at pdvd are into speaker tweaking to improve the sound. I was thinking of having my US Audio speakers tweaked. Can you guys please tell me who can help?
I can't seem to find buyers for my US Audio speakers so I thought I'll just make them a dedicated speaker for music and just buy perhaps a surplus amp to drive them. The reason I wanted to have them tweaked is that they seem to sound "tunog lata" na compared to other (branded) speakers that I heard.
I am not keen on tweaking the speakers myself, I might just pay somebody who knows how to do it and may I know how much pls.?
Help please. Thanks
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Try to contact Mhel or Anthony. ;)
Anthony #541 6441 #0918 335 4694
Mhel #0917 529 8004
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What capacitors would you recommend for tweeking and where can we purchase good capacitors.. i'm using Monitor Audio B4, B2 and Center... ;D
and wire also... ;)
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try sonicaps...relatively cheap at GR-reserach.com. Very long break in time though. Got mine from them. Use credit card. The shop ships your package as 'sample' items, which is why mine didn't get taxed at the local PO. >:D
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Hello to everybody! I just want to get some help from you guys on what are the parameters in setting crossover frequencies for various drivers (woofers, mid-range & tweeters) in relation to their diameters and also the values of my xover components for a 3-way speaker. I am planning to make diy speakers for hi-fi stereo listening, so please help me. God bless you... :)
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Ano yung POWER TACK? Pano ikabit at ano hitsura nito?
Thanks!
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try this guys!
put a marble slab (same size as your speakers) on top of your speakers this will prevent any movement of speakers even when your playing at very high volume
stero imaging will be stabilized and youll hear the difference immediately. this kinda mass load the speaker/stand
I still have several pieces of ceramic floor tiles -- siguro pwede rin to -- ;D
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Hello to everybody! I just want to get some help from you guys on what are the parameters in setting crossover frequencies for various drivers (woofers, mid-range & tweeters) in relation to their diameters and also the values of my xover components for a 3-way speaker. I am planning to make diy speakers for hi-fi stereo listening, so please help me. God bless you... :)
If I recall right from my DIY days ages ago, setting the crossover frequencies have more dependence on the natural frequency responses of the driver and you normally set it above and/or below the knee of the response graph so the driver operates more in the linear or flat regions. You would need a spec sheet on each of the driver you want to use. Then there are other design considerations on what type of dividing networks to use (Chebychev, Linkwitz-Riley, Bessel, Butterworth) and how steep the roll-offs you want with each driver(first order, second order, etc.) with their inherent phase shifts and doing some compensating R-C circuits (Zobel network, plain resistor, etc.) to flaten the response curve. (e.g, If the dividing network has a 180 degree phase shift, you'd reverse the connection to the driver. ) It's a rather complicated effort requiring some readouts from trace oscilliscopes and a signal generator. Otherwise, you'd be on a hit or miss affair using very subjective ears. Don't ask me any further as the details and equations already escape me at this time. Though I'm sure other members deep into DIY can help here. I suggest you do some google search on the topic of speaker dividing networks. There are some excellent sites I've seen that even have a calculator function on what the capacitive, resistive and inductive values to use given the crossover frequencies you want and the roll off in decibels. And vice versa.
Having said that, IMHO, simple 2-way speakers are the way to go for Hi-fi listening. Many DIY net sites have projects in this area proven to perform well and can match some of the finer brands out there. They require simpler dividing networks with lesser aberrant sonic behaviours that 3-ways deliver without complicated dividing networks. Just my thoughts. Hope this helps.
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^-^ Thanks sir avphile1. Actually i asked about the subject because lately i tweaked my cheapo speaker and improved its sonic response. The original speaker (two-way pro) has no low pass filter but do have inductor and capacitor in series for the horn (I don't know why such design). I modified the design by dedicating the existing inductor for the low pass and the capacitor for the high pass. Right now, i'm planning to tweak farther the same speaker by employing 2nd order Butterworth to increase roll-off. I am enjoying tweaking my speakers: from replacing cables, adding damping materials and extending vent tubes. I'll take your suggestion to farther research on this matter from relative sites to gain farther knowledge. Thanks again... Happy tweaking everybody!!! ;D
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Good for you Edsa3. That was also how I started in this hobby in high school. But I learned later on that some of the finer 2-way speakers out there actually have just a capacitor in series with a tweeter. That's because the woofer already has a natural roll-off in the highs that makes a low-pass filter redundant and unnecesarily phase-shifting. But don't let that stop you. Like you said, happy tweaking. ;D
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is it advisable to use thicker wires inside the speakers or use the same gauge? say, replace the existing gauge 18 or 20 speaker wires inside the speakers with gauge 14. will there be improvements if rewiring is resorted or is it useless unless you change the caps likewise?
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is it advisable to use thicker wires inside the speakers or use the same gauge? say, replace the existing gauge 18 or 20 speaker wires inside the speakers with gauge 14. will there be improvements if rewiring is resorted or is it useless unless you change the caps likewise?
Those cables used inside speakers are of so short lengths that 18 ga cables will do fine. You could change them as what most DIYers do. And it's up to your ears if you hear any improvements.
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hi...
have any one tried to make those powered sub to auto volt?
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hi...
have any one tried to make those powered sub to auto volt?
I think this something to do with the power supply of the Powered sub.
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For internal speaker wire is it ok to use different size or type of wire (eg. copper, silver plated) for the HI and LO? or better to have to same size and type ?
TIA
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Ken,
why not?
it'll boil down again to your taste. Me, i replaced all the stock unbranded copper gauge 18 wires of the Mission M74 with Ecosse CS2.3 gauge 14 on the tweeter and two mid/bass woofers. same length. Sounded bigger, smoother and wider. Of course, i use also Ecosse CS2.3 speaker externally and Ecosse The BestBoy interconnect. Though it makes sense to use smaller gauge since the signal path is very short , but, i prefer the larger gauge, that's me!
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hi new_age thanks for your reply
I already did some minor tweaking on my 602s3(using sand paper on the contact point bet. XO board and binding post) result was not as expected but no harm done... and now contemplating of replacing the internal speaker wire.
I'm planning to use silver plated QED silver anniversary, IC is Vhd D Name and extnl speaker cable is mixed combination of AQ MN+/CAT5 DIY for LOW and QED silver Anniversary for the HI...
Now I know I'm not alone on this path...thanks again.
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Great Ken! pero di kaya maging brighter ang 602 with the silver wire? you know naman, metal tweeters are really sharp. AQ midnight plus is known to be a warm cable just don't know how it will blend with CAT5. I have several cuts of CAT5 here, tried it before but it was on a brighter side with my system.
This afternoon, i just installed a TDK ferrite magnet ring inside the speakers....clamped on the Ecosse CS2.3 for the tweeter only...great result. Others put this outside the speakers, near the binding post... but i just tried it today to clamp it on the tweeters internal wiring. Solved the sibilance. i can now listen to stacey kent and patricia barber for days. ;D
keep on sharing.
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hi new_age,
Did it last night but I replaced only the mid/woofer wire because the tweeter wiring has a plastic connector with a triangular top which I find difficult to remove(saving it for future experiment).
I wrapped the whole wire in teflon tape and inserted it in a heat shrink - (macho/pogi points) and use 4%silver solder. I have not yet thoroughly listen to it, though initially i've notice a minor changes on the midrage but I'm not sure yet about it. This comming weekend I will carefully listen to it to see any changes on the sound since I only did it on one of the speakers I can compare it with the other one.
Great Ken! pero di kaya maging brighter ang 602 with the silver wire? you know naman, metal tweeters are really sharp.
Yup I agree with you that AQ MN+ is warm(for my setup/me its to much), I even used it before for my HI and the QED SA for my LOW's and sound great, when I make the DIY CAT5 I tried different combination and I end up w/ AQ MN+/DIY CAT5 for Hi and QED SA for LOW...(setup is on passive vertical biamp)
AQ midnight plus is known to be a warm cable just don't know how it will blend with CAT5. I have several cuts of CAT5 here, tried it before but it was on a brighter side with my system.
Tried before ferrite magnet on my IC and power supply cable, stop using it when I got my Iso trans.
This afternoon, i just installed a TDK ferrite magnet ring inside the speakers..
PB's 'Taste of Honey' will be one of my reference song this week end together with
Jheena L's Vol2 CD as well as Rebecca P's 'Spanish Harlem'. I'll post the result of my testing afterwards ...half of the fun on this hobby/passion I guest is on tweaking/experimenting.
I can now listen to stacey kent and patricia barber for days. ;D
keep on sharing.
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hi guys! will there be a difference if i change my MS speaker terminal braces? have no plans of biwiring them just yet...sir av_phile told me that i can try replacing the braces & that some also use short speaker wires as braces. wats your take on this? TIA! :D
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hi guys! will there be a difference if i change my MS speaker terminal braces? have no plans of biwiring them just yet...sir av_phile told me that i can try replacing the braces & that some also use short speaker wires as braces. wats your take on this? TIA! :D
You can try some speaker wire available in the market for me have notice more clarity or better mids depends on the wire you used.. currently using Audience hookup wire from Arch Audio for my speaker.
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bro hans! are those the same as the speaker cables? wat if im using 14ga cables already? can i just strip out the wires long enough for them to reach n bind on the other terminals n remove the braces? TIA!
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Ken, What is the orig wire of the 602?
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Ken, What is the orig wire of the 602?
hi levi,
...looks like a regular a stranded copper wire 16 or 18 ga ata size but with "b&w loudspeakers Ltd." markings on its insulator.
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hi guys! anybody tried to replace the jumper brackets on your biwirable speakers? tnx
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kt,
My HT front and center speakers composed of Mission M72 and M7C2 are biwreable but wired them singly with Ixos 6006, replaced my stock jumpers with 5 inches of Ecosse CS2.3 each pair of binding post...smoother sounding and tamed with Ixos 1051 Silver Interconnect Digital Coax. My Mission M7DS and M7C1i surround speakers are not biwireable so as is.
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I heard balanced and neutral sound coming from my 602 when biwired using two runs of xlo er11. I used to replaced the bridge with shotgunned 2 runs of xlo er11 and listened long enough. I am more satisfied with biwire set up using the same sets of wire (xlo er11). just my ears.
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tnx for the reply guys!
bro new_age! wat gauge did u use as wire jumpers? so in your case, u used a 5in long wire as your jumper then just single wired the speakers right? where did u single wire them? at the HF or LF? wud it matter where u hook your wires in a single wire setup? tnx bro!
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Hey kt,
right. the 5 inch jumper ecosse cs2.3 is gauge 14 hooked the HF and LF for + and other HF and LF for the -, wired singly with 2.5 meters of Ixos 6006 to the amp. Nice combination for me at least, with the Mission.... complimenting benefits from the smoothness and rounded sound of the Ecosse and the slam and deep bass of the Ixos 6006.
enjoy dude!
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hi just want to share this...
finally I just completed my testing/evaluation of my experiment, I replaced both the tweeter and the mid/woofer
internal wiring of my speaker(B&W 602s3) and result was not to my liking. HF is Ok but i feel I loss something on LF department or baka mabilis lang siguro talaga kaya parang nawala...
Any one tried using magnetic wire for the speaker internal wiring ? I'm thinking of experimenting on this material. Kindly post your comments/feed back on this.
TIA
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I see no problem using magnet wire. That's solid wire, right? Have you ever noticed that the voice coil winding in a driver is also made of solid magnet wire?
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tnx for the info bro new_age! i'll try it on my setup! ;D
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Great kt!
it's not that expensive afterall!
Good luck and enjoy!
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I see no problem using magnet wire. That's solid wire, right? Have you ever noticed that the voice coil winding in a driver is also made of solid magnet wire?
Yup sir AV solid wire... I'm still looking for the right size kasi kalimitan nakita ko medyo maliliit. Probably this weekend ay ma gagawa ko na...
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bro new_age i tried it already! n less than 5" lang of wire pala coz short lang yung distance ng terminals ng MS. i just tried it sa front L&R ko. i'll try it also sa center ko. well i havent really noticed any big change...or is it just my ears! hehe ??? i just tried it sa stereo n set the fronts to large n tested lang sa audio cd kasi... kaw bro howd u notice the change ba agad?
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Before anything else, this is not to start another debate, so peace to all ;D
Different people have different experiences w/ biwiring (replacing the stock jumpers falls under this, I think). Some experience significant improvement, others subtle, others none at all. In my experience, the improvement, at the most, is subtle.
Be happy that you didn't hear any difference. That means a lot of savings.
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bro bee! yup i just noticed a small change..not that noticeable if i may say... well at least i tried it already! hehe n after all copper wires should act for better conductivity than the stock jumpers...are those metal btw? ???
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bro bee! yup i just noticed a small change..not that noticeable if i may say... well at least i tried it already! hehe n after all copper wires should act for better conductivity than the stock jumpers...are those metal btw? ???
Yup, those are metal jumpers.
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bro bee tnx for the info! i'll do some more trials with the wires ;D
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Mga sirs, sobrang newbie question..
Ok lang ba na magdagdag ng tweeter sa fronts ng isang multimedia 5.1 speaker system(altec vs3251)?parang ipa-parallel ko siya sa output ng fronts.
I know its not modular and everything..pero would it possibly work? or what harm could it do to the system or at the integrated amp?
kulang kasi sa highs yung altec ko, hanggang 17Khz lang siya.. may nagsabi sakin na di daw kasi magiging harsh yung sound at di siya modular tulad ng mga audio/HT speakers na modular.. pero may nagsabi rin na pwede rin naman just add resistors daw and the right wiring.. so ano po talaga tama?
tnx ???
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hi levi,
...looks like a regular a stranded copper wire 16 or 18 ga ata size but with "b&w loudspeakers Ltd." markings on its insulator.
ken
whats the capacitor used and its value sa crossover ng bw602? tnx
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anyone know if wharfe 8.4's have a provision for sand-loading? I dont have the manual for mine, and the online manual includes only the 8.1, 8.2 and 8.3, and doesn't mention if the 8.3 has this.
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you can ...
if the altec is just a full range driver (no tweeter), then a tweeter with a capacitor should work but ... I wish I can say everything, so here is my suggestion
at 17khz, you will need basically about 1uF capacitor (cut of at 20khz actually), mga 1.33uF for 17khz (unusual cap value, PARALLEL 2 of 0.68uF cap will do the trick, then reverse the polarity to the tweeter). At the same time, tweeter are typically of much higher sensitivity than typical mass market full range, so you need a resistor (also in series, desirable than just caps alone). start from about 100ohms (5W, the rectangular white one), then decrease or increase to your desired sonic balance. With the resistor, there will be no issue on the amp (it will not be able to see the tweeter because of the resistor - kinda like that). Further, you may need a 16ohm (5W resistor) in parallel to the series connection of cap/tweeter (to effectively cut off at 17khz).
+----1uF----tweeter----+
---100ohms----+ +------- (positive terminal)
+------16ohms---------+
Lastly, IMO, 17khz is not that bad really.
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Has anyone upgraded their capacitors? We have a few clients who did this upgrade themselves and so far they said they are happy with it but i personally havent heard their speakers pre and post upgrade so dont know.
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you can ...
if the altec is just a full range driver (no tweeter), then a tweeter with a capacitor should work but ... I wish I can say everything, so here is my suggestion
at 17khz, you will need basically about 1uF capacitor (cut of at 20khz actually), mga 1.33uF for 17khz (unusual cap value, series 2 of 0.68uF cap will do the trick, then reverse the polarity to the tweeter). At the same time, tweeter are typically of much higher sensitivity than typical mass market full range, so you need a resistor (also in series, desirable than just caps alone). start from about 100ohms (5W, the rectangular white one), then decrease or increase to your desired sonic balance. With the resistor, there will be no issue on the amp (it will not be able to see the tweeter because of the resistor - kinda like that). Further, you may need a 16ohm (5W resistor) in parallel to the series connection of cap/tweeter (to effectively cut off at 17khz).
+----1uF----tweeter----+
---100ohms----+ +------- (positive terminal)
+------16ohms---------+
Lastly, IMO, 17khz is not that bad really.
wow sir ahobbit this is very detailed and helpful..do i need a small circuit board for this? ayaw ko open speakers e, bago pa..
17khz is not so bad? so would the tweeter really help? or should you leave it alone if you were in my case?
tnx sir! ;)
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wow sir ahobbit this is very detailed and helpful..do i need a small circuit board for this? ayaw ko open speakers e, bago pa..
17khz is not so bad? so would the tweeter really help? or should you leave it alone if you were in my case?
tnx sir! ;)
No need of circuit board. Why do you have to open the speaker? is the amp inside the speaker? if it is, there is no way for you to access at least the terminal of the speaker where the amp is!
You only need to run wire to the +/- terminal of each speaker, and let it out. then you can attach all the components I indicated above. Just ensure all connections are insulated (the 100 ohms resistor is preferred to be inside the speaker na - so just in case your wire is shorted outside incidentally, your amp is still protected by that resistor loading).
If the 17khz is true, I may leave it as is. But if your ear tells you it sounds as lacking, then I might experiment some tweets with them. The usual piezo tweets (PHP100 yata a pair has high sensitivity and a good cheap start to experiment - though majority of them sounds harsh - medyo magaspang - few are really good - has built in 12db cross over, so you only need the 100ohms and not the cap/parallel resistor).
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maraming salamat uli sir, ambait mo! ;D yan ang tunay na PDVDer! :D
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... mga 1.33uF for 17khz (unusual cap value, PARALLEL 2 of 0.68uF cap will do the trick... )
I made this correction in my early post ... take note
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(http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o69/noside6008/Untitled-1.jpg)
tama po ba ito sir?
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sent u PM
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Try this link
http://www.hi-fi-insight.com/205/quad-11l-loudspeakers-tweak.htm
I did the same to my quad12l at nagimprove ang bass but the treble is still the same.
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tnx sir aHobbit!
sent you email.. ;)
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These is what I did to my speaker. Replaced the cheap I/C brand polypropylene cap to Mundorf Supreme and change the inetrnal wiring to PCOOC solid core wire. The outcome was a more open, cleaner, clearer open window to the music.
By the way I played around with the quantity of the internal dampening material to balance the bass output. This is to eliminate any boom and make the bass more rythmic and articulate.
This is very simple, you just need to be able to handle the soldering iron ;).
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b331/hendrix142002/P1020249.jpg)
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b331/hendrix142002/P1020251.jpg)
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b331/hendrix142002/P1020254.jpg)
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b331/hendrix142002/P1020361.jpg)
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This is neither a speaker modification or upgrade, I dont know where to post it so dito na lang.
Dahil di pa makatulog ngayon eh I decided to see what fine tuning i can do to my setup. Naisipan kong gamitin both the KEF HTS2001 (fr KEF KHT2005 sub/sat) and my old Mission M70 as front speakers to my Denon 1507.
Im not expecting much pero malaki ang naging improvement esp for SACD/DVD-Audio. Mas naging wide ang soundstaging at nag-improve ang midrange. Parang naging floorstander ang performance.
May bago na naman sa pandinig so siguradong puyatan na naman this coming days to test my fav videos and audios.
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By the way I played around with the quantity of the internal dampening material to balance the bass output. This is to eliminate any boom and make the bass more rythmic and articulate.
Hi. Just want to ask where I can get said dampening materials? Thanks...
A good substitute dampening material ay iyong ginagamit na pansala sa dumi ng aquarium, or filter na ginagamit sa stove range hood.
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By the way I played around with the quantity of the internal dampening material to balance the bass output. This is to eliminate any boom and make the bass more rythmic and articulate.
Hi. Just want to ask where I can get said dampening materials? Thanks...
Those are poly-fill materials. In addition to edwin's reply, you can easily get poly-fill from furniture upholster suppliers, textile suppliers and from pillows ;)
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Thanks. i also heard theres a store at divisoria which sells these materials. i just dont know where exactly.
Anyway, im planning to change the dampening material inside an old bottom ported speakers i have. It sounds fine but im quite concerned with the possibility that it may be spewing asbestos around the house. It was manufactured prior to asbestos being a health hazard kasi. Im not sure if the sonic character would be altered if a newer material is used though. Was asbestos an issue with older speakers you have? TIA
You could replace the dampening material but make sure that the weight of the replacement material will be the same as the original material.
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Hey that seems to be a great idea !
Now if only someone could tell me where to get mundorfs.
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contact audioamplified for the mundorfs
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Hi Edwin,
on the loudspeakers x-over , i see several capacitors, Why was that particular capacitor replaced ? is there a rule of thumb in replacing capacitors ?
thanks
These is what I did to my speaker. Replaced the cheap I/C brand polypropylene cap to Mundorf Supreme and change the inetrnal wiring to PCOOC solid core wire. The outcome was a more open, cleaner, clearer open window to the music.
By the way I played around with the quantity of the internal dampening material to balance the bass output. This is to eliminate any boom and make the bass more rythmic and articulate.
This is very simple, you just need to be able to handle the soldering iron ;).
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Hi Edwin,
on the loudspeakers x-over , i see several capacitors, Why was that particular capacitor replaced ? is there a rule of thumb in replacing capacitors ?
thanks
Hi,
The most cost effective way is just to change the capacitor connected to the tweeter which I did. The rest of the other caps are for the mid drivers. Replacing those caps can also be good but the improvement will not be substantial compared to the tweeter caps. Also, you need to spend more on the mid bass caps becuase they will have a much higher value.
You might not believe the improvement you will get. Clearer and cleaner highs with a lot of snap. Now all the speakers I buy, I do this upgrade.
I hope this helps.
Edwin
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thanks for the info, will follow this route too... as I was also thinking of doing the same thing, but did not know where to start as there are numerous caps in the x-over.
Hi,
The most cost effective way is just to change the capacitor connected to the tweeter which I did. The rest of the other caps are for the mid drivers. Replacing those caps can also be good but the improvement will not be substantial compared to the tweeter caps. Also, you need to spend more on the mid bass caps becuase they will have a much higher value.
You might not believe the improvement you will get. Clearer and cleaner highs with a lot of snap. Now all the speakers I buy, I do this upgrade.
I hope this helps.
Edwin
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Hi,
The most cost effective way is just to change the capacitor connected to the tweeter which I did. The rest of the other caps are for the mid drivers. Replacing those caps can also be good but the improvement will not be substantial compared to the tweeter caps. Also, you need to spend more on the mid bass caps becuase they will have a much higher value.
You might not believe the improvement you will get. Clearer and cleaner highs with a lot of snap. Now all the speakers I buy, I do this upgrade.
I hope this helps.
Edwin
Yes,i have tried it before. In my case, replaced a vintage speaker tweeter non polarized electrolytic capacitor to polypropylene caps.
Read it also somewhere.
Big improvements, clean, crispy highs... The mid-hi seems to improve too as per my observation...
Just change the first tweeter cap. whatever the crossover is...
Pag maluwag, will try in my other speakers...
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thanks for the info, will follow this route too... as I was also thinking of doing the same thing, but did not know where to start as there are numerous caps in the x-over.
The cap with the smallest value will be the one connected to your tweeter. You could trace the circuit to verify by seeing where is this cap leading to.
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Would you know of anyone who can upgrade the caps? Thanks for the posts, Edwin. Singapore ka pala based.
dyan sa Pinas, you could try Hypertriode. Or you could post for help for somebody into DIY who could help you.
Yes I'm based here in Singapore. Kung nandito ka lang, pwede kitang tulungan. The best if you could take some pics of your crossover and from there maybe I could see what cap to replace.
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Since you guys would be tweaking your crossovers, suggest that you replace the internal wires connecting the tweeters. Edwin already mentioned this, but a cheaper alternative would be to use a braided CAT 5 for the tweeters. Try replacing the wires of the woofer as well with a copper wire one size bigger than the one installed. :)
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Here is another of my speaker last time, the Totem Model 1 ( a %^$#@ good speaker ) showing the inside. This is already using a good polypropylene caps, Solen, but after changing it to Mundorf Supreme, it was a different story. The one I replaced is the one on the left with 2 pcs of polysterene bypass.
If you could find these speakers, you have to try them. They are just great. They are of the same league as the Dynaudio Contour 1.1 (which I am selling ;D ;D ;D,. Sorry for the plug-in ;D ;D ;D, but it is just true).
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b331/hendrix142002/P1010082.jpg)
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b331/hendrix142002/P1010447.jpg?t=1179926419)
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Nice! :)
Decided to open the speakers i have here for some mod. As per the suggestions in this thread, want to change the non polarized tweeter capacitor (2.5 is the value) and upgrade the wires. Id want to ask if theres a good replacement for the capacitor available locally with the same 2.5 value? Also want to ask what wires to use for the low, mid, and tweeters (such as the braided cat 5 and pcooc solid copper wire) and where it can be purchased?
TIA.
For your tweeter caps, use the mundorf supreme from audio amplified. Cheaper will be the mundorf M-caps. You couls use mundorf internal wirings also available at audio amplified.
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Yup, you can use either rugby or double sided tape to fasten the dampening material.
Where do you plan to place the dashield? you have a picture to show that?
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I would avoid using rugby as some damping material might melt. Go with the double sided tape
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Hi there,
I read this post a month ago. I had my crossover caps replaced to Mundorf supreme last Saturday. Listened to it the next day. Found the highs to be a lot less. Expected it to be clean and crisp. But I believe the highs became a bit too shy. The mids seem to over power the highs. :-[ Would just like to ask those who have done this mod. Will the highs get better after break in? ??? What improvements could I expect after break in?
Jason
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Hi there,
I read this post a month ago. I had my crossover caps replaced to Mundorf supreme last Saturday. Listened to it the next day. Found the highs to be a lot less. Expected it to be clean and crisp. But I believe the highs became a bit too shy. The mids seem to over power the highs. :-[ Would just like to ask those who have done this mod. Will the highs get better after break in? ??? What improvements could I expect after break in?
Jason
You have to be patient with the Mundorf. It will sound dead/lifeless during the break-in timing and you need at least 100 hrs. Once you reach over this mark, you might not be able to remove the grin on your face on the improvement you will get.
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I read this post a month ago. I had my crossover caps replaced to Mundorf supreme last Saturday. Listened to it the next day. Found the highs to be a lot less. Expected it to be clean and crisp. But I believe the highs became a bit too shy. The mids seem to over power the highs. Would just like to ask those who have done this mod. Will the highs get better after break in? What improvements could I expect after break in?
did you replace the original cap with exactly the same value mundorf? if the original is say 4.7 and then you replaced with 2.2ufd, then it is possible there will be slight attenauation of the highs...
anyway give it some more time, pag nasanay na tenga mo, then you might say nagimprove na yung sounds mo.... ;D ;D ;D
malay mo, you will be able to acquire those "golden ears" ;D ;D
speaker mods should produce tangible result from start go....otherwise, you can always go back to what it was previously...
the biggest joy of being able to DIY is to "come up with something out of your own hands", mahirap matapatan ng monetary value yan.....
besides, our individual differences, prevents us from having duplicate experiences, otherwise that would be boring. ;D
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You have to be patient with the Mundorf. It will sound dead/lifeless during the break-in timing and you need at least 100 hrs. Once you reach over this mark, you might not be able to remove the grin on your face on the improvement you will get.
Thanks for the advise. :D At least you confirmed that it sounds a bit dull when new. I was already disappointed on the outcome when I heard it. It's a lot more detailed and clear though.
By the way, I'm the one who changed the caps. I wasn't aware that my friend was the one logged in at that time. ;D
Looking forward to the changes...
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did you replace the original cap with exactly the same value mundorf? if the original is say 4.7 and then you replaced with 2.2ufd, then it is possible there will be slight attenauation of the highs...
anyway give it some more time, pag nasanay na tenga mo, then you might say nagimprove na yung sounds mo.... ;D ;D ;D
malay mo, you will be able to acquire those "golden ears" ;D ;D
speaker mods should produce tangible result from start go....otherwise, you can always go back to what it was previously...
the biggest joy of being able to DIY is to "come up with something out of your own hands", mahirap matapatan ng monetary value yan.....
besides, our individual differences, prevents us from having duplicate experiences, otherwise that would be boring. ;D
Hi :D
Yes sir, I replaced it with the same value. I believe the sound got cleaner and clearer. Just hope it gets better.(more to my taste) ;D Otherwise, I'll just have to get used to the sound and believe it got better like you said. ;D I guess I was looking for a warmer sound. I believe I got it.( Just a little bit too much ) ;D Just hope it becomes warm and not dull after 100-200 hours. :D
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need advise on speaker modification. I have no idea actually. I use a yamaha ns-333 2-way bookshelf speaker, with 5"woofer, 6ohms,87db.should I modifiy it, will it improve the sound quality? where will I start? what would I modify?I already like the sound it produces driven by NAD amp/cdp combi, but if modification would improve it, why not?
thnx for your time, :D
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need advise on speaker modification. I have no idea actually. I use a yamaha ns-333 2-way bookshelf speaker, with 5"woofer, 6ohms,87db.should I modifiy it, will it improve the sound quality? where will I start? what would I modify?I already like the sound it produces driven by NAD amp/cdp combi, but if modification would improve it, why not?
thnx for your time, :D
Are they your main speakers and for keeps. If yes then go ahead. Remember to plan your budget properly. You could go for the caps connected to the tweeters in series as they could bring the most improvement. Solen is the cheapest but the basic replacement you could use.
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You have to be patient with the Mundorf. It will sound dead/lifeless during the break-in timing and you need at least 100 hrs. Once you reach over this mark, you might not be able to remove the grin on your face on the improvement you will get.
At last!!! 100+ hours later... ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D Sir, can't remove the Grin on my face! ;D ;D ;D
Great detail and instrument separation! They're no longer bright but CRISP!
Would like to thank the guys in this forum for your posts.
Would also like to thank Sir Noel of Audio Amplified for being very accomodating.
Am really happy with the Mundorf Caps that I got from you.
Jason
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At last!!! 100+ hours later... ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D Sir, can't remove the Grin on my face! ;D ;D ;D
Great detail and instrument separation! Their no longer bright but CRISP!
Would like to thank the guys in this forum for your posts.
Would also like to thank Sir Noel of Audio Amplified for being very accomodating.
Am really happy with the Mundorf Caps that I got from you.
Jason
I am quite happy that you had experience the same as I did. Next, mundorf upgrade on your equipments? ;)
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Edwin/tweaker friends,
I opened up my Yamaha speakers and saw the internal components inside. The capacitor is 4.7uf, the internal wiring of the woofer used is guage 16 monster cable, but there are no specs provided for the wiring of the tweeter(thinner maybe a guage 18).The (external)speaker cable I use is ecosse reference cs2.3. What brand of cap would you recommend I replace it with and also the tweeter wiring(what brand and guage)? also the specs of the solder to use? Im not inclined with electronics, siguro papagawa ko nalang.
your inputs will be highly appreciated! ;D
tnx!
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Any one tried using magnetic wire for the speaker internal wiring ? I'm thinking of experimenting on this material. Kindly post your comments/feed back on this.
TIA
BUMP
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Edwin/tweaker friends,
I opened up my Yamaha speakers and saw the internal components inside. The capacitor is 4.7uf, the internal wiring of the woofer used is guage 16 monster cable, but there are no specs provided for the wiring of the tweeter(thinner maybe a guage 18).The (external)speaker cable I use is ecosse reference cs2.3. What brand of cap would you recommend I replace it with and also the tweeter wiring(what brand and guage)? also the specs of the solder to use? Im not inclined with electronics, siguro papagawa ko nalang.
your inputs will be highly appreciated! ;D
tnx!
Could you provide pics of the crossover? For internal cabling for the tweeters, you could use those high purity copper or silver hook-up wires. For my speaeker internal cable upgrade, i use the Neotech PCOCC for the woofer and Mundorf Silver wire for the tweeter.
The cheapest caps to use will be the Solen or at almost the same price, the Mundorf M-Cap. If you have a deeper pocket, you could use Auricap, Mundorf Supreme or Mundorf Silver in Oil.
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BUMP
If i'm not mistaken, the Speltz AntiCables are made from a thick gauge of magnet wire. So this could be a good choice.
http://www.anticables.com/testimonials.html
(http://www.anticables.com/images/products.jpg)
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If I'm not mistaken, the Speltz AntiCables are made from a thick gauge of magnet wire. So this could be a good choice.
http://www.anticables.com/testimonials.html
(http://www.anticables.com/images/products.jpg)
salamat po sir Edwin
DIY
1. Bare copper wire (magnet wire) lower gauge bigger dia. better
2. Teflon Tape (gamit ng mga tubero).
3. Kitchen Aluminum Foil (pambalot ng tira-tira)
4. Ferrite (optional)
4. Shirk tube
5. Connectors
Now your ready..
Cut 4 wires at the same length (don't cut beyond 2.5m, the shorter
the better >2.5m problem with the capacitance and inductance). Tiyaga
lang ang kailangan. Twist the 2 wires and the same with the other 2.
Now you have right channel. Do d same for the other channel.
Now wrap with teflon tape (2 pasada). Cut the aluminum foil into
strips (0.5 inch) then wrap it on top of the teflon tape. Wrap again
with teflon tape on top of the aluminum foil (2x). We are doing this
to prevent RFI and EMF. Finish all the 4 wires. Done? Okay, next
shield it with shirk tubes (red for + black for -). After that, don't
twist the + and - wires (i did twist but the sound is better if not
twisted on my system, try what flavor your system wants). OK, now you
have a pair for left and right channel. Solder your connectors and
your done.. Breakin period 120hrs
Anyone tried this (DIY speaker cable) as replacement for internal wirings of speakers (from drivers to crossover)?
Salamat po...
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Edwin/tweaker friends,
I opened up my Yamaha speakers and saw the internal components inside. The capacitor is 4.7uf, the internal wiring of the woofer used is guage 16 monster cable, but there are no specs provided for the wiring of the tweeter(thinner maybe a guage 18).The (external)speaker cable I use is ecosse reference cs2.3. What brand of cap would you recommend I replace it with and also the tweeter wiring(what brand and guage)? also the specs of the solder to use? Im not inclined with electronics, siguro papagawa ko nalang.
your inputs will be highly appreciated! ;D
tnx!
change internal wiring to ecosse cs2.3; use mundorf supreme 4.7uf.
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hello sirs
do you think the aurum cantus F5000r would benefit from the tweaks you mentioned (changing caps and internal wires).
thanks
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In general all speakers will improve when you change the internal wires and caps.
FOr the best price to value equation, i would suggest you upgrade F5000 to Mcap only then internal wires you can change to mundorf silver-gold wires since its just a small bookshelf.
We have done this on several units and the details and clarity improved by a lot :)
Aurum ribbon speakers models come with mundorf supreme caps already so no need to upgrade that part - although changing the wires is recommended on these models.
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thanks for the reply!
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any suggestions po what else can i change/tweak or modify sa diamonds ko?
http://pinoydvd.com/board/index.php?topic=42614.msg726233#msg726233 (http://pinoydvd.com/board/index.php?topic=42614.msg726233#msg726233)
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any suggestions po what else can i change/tweak or modify sa diamonds ko?
http://pinoydvd.com/board/index.php?topic=42614.msg726233#msg726233 (http://pinoydvd.com/board/index.php?topic=42614.msg726233#msg726233)
start by replacing the electrolytic caps. for cheap polypropylene cap replacements - use red caps labelled audiophiler kondensator available @ eleshop, ronquillo, quiapo manila (parallel to raon). around 200pesos each
then re-wire. used your preferred wires. kung gusto mo magtipid, use best quality wire internally and decent wires from amp-to-speaker. this way, the last leg of the connection are the best wires.
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start by replacing the electrolytic caps. for cheap polypropylene cap replacements - use red caps labelled audiophiler kondensator available @ eleshop, ronquillo, quiapo manila (parallel to raon). around 200pesos each
buti pala i posted here. otherwise, i have no other choice kundi yung mga hi-end super expensive caps. thanks for the info, sir.
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buti pala i posted here. otherwise, i have no other choice kundi yung mga hi-end super expensive caps. thanks for the info, sir.
tel# 7332925 / 7332931
caps are polypropylene mkp...1uf : 2.2 3.3 4.7 6.8 10uf / mostly 400volts (dont worry about this figure)
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oweidah, thanks for this info. do they have electrolytic caps there also? kasi non polar electrolytic yata nasa speakers ko na balak ko i-recap. would it better to use polypropylene? thanks.
Yes, polypropylene caps are better than electrolytic. The upgrade will depend on how much you are willing to spend. Best is to start with Solen or Mundorf Mcaps.
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Could you provide pics of the crossover? For internal cabling for the tweeters, you could use those high purity copper or silver hook-up wires. For my speaeker internal cable upgrade, i use the Neotech PCOCC for the woofer and Mundorf Silver wire for the tweeter.
The cheapest caps to use will be the Solen or at almost the same price, the Mundorf M-Cap. If you have a deeper pocket, you could use Auricap, Mundorf Supreme or Mundorf Silver in Oil.
Sir,
If I replaced the internal wires of my B&W 601 S3, would it get a lot better? If I used the Mundorf Silver Gold wires for the HF, what kindof changes could I expect?
Jason
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Replacing the caps of my paradigm studio 60 v2 will bring me improvement? I have'nt open yet the box to know the exact values. Is it worth the risk and effort? ::) :o
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For me, one of the most cost effective upgrade is the changing of the tweeter capacitor to a better type and had done this a lot of times and had always got the same good result. On my experience, it is well worth the risk, effort, time, money, etc spent.
For your guide: http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html
Changing the internal speaker cable has different improvement results from me, from marginal to good to wow :D. Some speakers already have good cables inside like the Totem Model 1. Some are really crappy cables like the ones used inside the Chario Hiper 2 and the Epos ES11 that i replaced with Neotech PCOCC cables.
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I'd just want to ask about the following regarding capacitors:
I want to replace a 1uf/63V cap. I found a 1uf cap, but the voltage is 400v. Can I use this? Does the voltage reading matter?
I want to replace a 3.5uf/ 100V cap. Only 3.3uf and 4.7uf are available (400V also). Which one will approximate the original value?
Thanks for the advice, sirs.
You should always use the same or higher voltage rating, but need to watch out for the size as it might not be able to fit. A higher voltage will give you a lower ESR, lower the better.
1uf/400v can be used. 3.3uf can be used to replace a 3.5uf. To get the same value, connect two 0.1uf to the 3.3uf.
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stock caps of sonus faber amati.....mundorf mcap
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y7/jet1225/amati6.jpg)
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stock crossover of b&w 800 series.....mundorf silver gold.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y7/jet1225/IMG_0422.jpg)
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it would be better to use a single 2uf, but if you wouldn't want to spend anymore... two 1uf in parallel will do. if you connect it in series, the value would be halved.
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try nyo mga sir silver wire for internal speaker size 5/7/8(http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z103/diy_master/DSC00099-1.jpg)
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This wire is superb. I had mine upgraded to this and it just opens up the speakers. Very detailed and lively mid to highs.
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This wire is superb. I had mine upgraded to this and it just opens up the speakers. Very detailed and lively mid to highs.
what happened to bass???? ::)
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The bass was deep and tight but somehow lack the room-filling effect. I deferred commenting on it yet since I need to break-in the dual 8-inch woofers (rubber yung surrounds so it may take at least a month).
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If you have to use Silver for wires, make sure it's of the same gauge as the copper wire you are replacing it with, so you can benefit from the 6% improvement in electrical conductivity. Bear in mind that going one gauge lower, say from 14ga to 16ga, has a 30% decrease in conductivity in terms of electrical resistance per 1000ft. So that a 16ga silver will not be better than a 14ga copper of the same purity.
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Hi, Edwin. Can I replace a 2uf cap with a 1 uf cap? Will it alter the sound? Nagkamali kasi ako nang nabili. Anyway, can I also solder two 1uf caps to approximate a 2uf cap?
Thanks for the advise.
of course you can.....
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i was told that upgrading the caps (ie: mundorf) also requires a number of hours of break in? ( that i found to be too long )
do they really need to be broken in? kahit broken in na naman ang drivers???
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i was told that upgrading the caps (ie: mundorf) also requires a number of hours of break in? ( that i found to be too long )
do they really need to be broken in? kahit broken in na naman ang drivers???
don't believe everything you are told, experience it yourself.....there is nothing inside nor outside of the cap that needs breaking in.it is your ears that need to make adjustments......yung speaker drivers pa, pwede....
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actually hindi nga ako makapaniwala. just looking for reassurance.... hassle kasi to leave my amp and cdp on for XXX hours just to break it in again.
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sayang. i was at ronquillo na kanina and was about to buy the audiophiler brand of polypropylene capacitors. problem is parang na-mental block ako and i can't remember if my capacitors are 3.3uf/4.7uf combi or 4.7uf/6.3uf. so i had to ask pa my brother to look for my pics here to confirm which values i need. while waiting, i went to hidalgo muna to buy some batteries and look at some lenses.
after a while my brother advised me it was 4.7uf and the 6.8uf pala for the highs/mids. so i hurried off again to eleshop but alas, closed na pala sila. it's just 5:15pm and closed na sila kaagad while almost all the other shops eh open pa. i plan to break it in sana using the 110v output of a transformer i have lying around since 400V naman ang working voltage nung capacitor. i plan to leave it there for about a week. that will make it past the recommended break-in period of 100 hours or so.
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Yup, finish the 100 hours of "break-in" and your capacitor will feel so old already. ;D Capacitors do not require break-in. They can only degrade in performance over time and use.
I can understand valve amps require a period to stabilize for the tubes to function right, but you're talking of just minutes here, and you do that everytime you turn them on. Same with the bias current in transistors, you will need them to reach a certain temperature to get the right bias, but we're talking just seconds here and you get that everytime you turn on the amp especially in cold climes. But breaking-in electronics certainly flies in the face of established facts.
Except for speakers, anyone who tells you you need to break-in a component, you better find another store. Because the product must be so lousy as to require that you get accustomed to the sound. Because 100 hours of break-in is about the right time for your ears to get used to the sound. ;D
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just got my speakers today! tweaked and customized by a-adio :)
(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh282/juric_0404/pi-opened.jpg)
(http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh282/juric_0404/pi-onstand.jpg)
Wow! Limited edition wharfes! Congrats! Til the next project....
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Anybody with experience in changing the xover resistors? Would just like to ask if there would be improvements in changing the resistors in the xover. If there would be, could you give me an idea on what I could expect? What resistor brand would you suggest? Where could I get it?
Am using a B&W 601s3. Changed the caps to mundorf supreme with great results. Going to change the internal wires soon. Thought of changing the resistors as well when I open it up. ;D
Hope someone could help.
Jason
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Anybody with experience in changing the xover resistors? Would just like to ask if there would be improvements in changing the resistors in the xover. If there would be, could you give me an idea on what I could expect? What resistor brand would you suggest? Where could I get it?
Am using a B&W 601s3. Changed the caps to mundorf supreme with great results. Going to change the internal wires soon. Thought of changing the resistors as well when I open it up. ;D
Hope someone could help.
Jason
how did you change the caps bro? how much did it cost?
thanks!
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Had it done at Audio Amplified. Price list for caps is at their website. Plus service fee if you ask them to do it for you. :)
Jason
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Thanks Jason! Will contact Audio Amp! ;D
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^^^ bro you can audition my mundorfed AE tom pag nag meet tayo... ;D
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^^^ bro you can audition my mundorfed AE tom pag nag meet tayo... ;D
whoa! thanks bro!
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Anybody know where I could get Mills / Wirewound resistors?
Thanks.
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Had it done at Audio Amplified. Price list for caps is at their website. Plus service fee if you ask them to do it for you. :)
Jason
bro! i will visit audio amp tom, do you mind saying how much did you pay for the mundorfed m cap upgrade for your 601's? i have the same speaker.. thanks! 0917 8110969
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Did you change the caps already? How about internal wirings? What did you use?
Jason
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Good am
Does anyone have the internal wiring diagram of the Wharfedale diamond 9.5 floorstander? I am planning to upgrade the internal wiring and would need the diagram to estimate the length of the wiring needed. Kindly email it to [email protected].
Thanks and regards,
JoeyGS
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actually you don't need to change the internal wirings if its good enough.... on my AE they saw the wirings and said its ok not to replace them. ;D
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Does anyone have the internal wiring diagram of the Wharfedale diamond 9.5 floorstander? I am planning to upgrade the internal wiring and would need the diagram to estimate the length of the wiring needed. Kindly email it to [email protected].
they seem good enough for me, but who can stop you in trying to squeeze the most from your system? here's a pic of the 9.5 innards:
(http://img474.imageshack.us/img474/9529/igp5591yq6.jpg)
more here: http://pinoydvd.com/board/index.php?topic=42614.msg726233#msg726233 (http://pinoydvd.com/board/index.php?topic=42614.msg726233#msg726233)
i could say 1 meter per run is the average length of the internal wirings. just have to cut the extra lengths though.
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Thanks gearhead and ctlim for your advises and comments. I was thinking that the wires and the caps would be the next step in tweaking the 9.5s. The first tweak I did was to add a super tweater to augment the highs being produced by the silk dome tweeter. With the super tweeter the highs of the 9.5 was extended without being harsh. Actually the highs became sweeter and details were added. Likewise, there was also an improvement on the mids and lows. The lows being tighter and more focused. BTW I am using the 9.5 in pure stereo mode, that is why I had to find a way to improve the highs as the 9.5 is laid back and being a British speaker. Todate, with out the wire and cap upgrade yet, i am enjoying the additional highend details (w/o fatigue) and a more focus and tight base.
Gearhead,
When you said 1 meter per run, that would be 5 meters as there are 5 wire colors?
Thanks and regards,
JoeyGS
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Gearhead,
When you said 1 meter per run, that would be 5 meters as there are 5 wire colors?
Thanks and regards,
JoeyGS
yes... thereabouts. tamang-tama lang, since if you buy your wires naman 1m would be the minimum.
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Thanks gearhead and ctlim for your advises and comments. I was thinking that the wires and the caps would be the next step in tweaking the 9.5s. The first tweak I did was to add a super tweater to augment the highs being produced by the silk dome tweeter. With the super tweeter the highs of the 9.5 was extended without being harsh. Actually the highs became sweeter and details were added. Likewise, there was also an improvement on the mids and lows. The lows being tighter and more focused. BTW I am using the 9.5 in pure stereo mode, that is why I had to find a way to improve the highs as the 9.5 is laid back and being a British speaker. Todate, with out the wire and cap upgrade yet, i am enjoying the additional highend details (w/o fatigue) and a more focus and tight base.
Gearhead,
When you said 1 meter per run, that would be 5 meters as there are 5 wire colors?
Thanks and regards,
JoeyGS
May we know what tweeters you used for the super highs. ::) I might try it with my 9.1's, though , as is, I find it musical already. ;D
Also, anybody actually tried mondorf caps on their diamonds? Please give a short review of before and after. Tnx :)
-
i was told that upgrading the caps (ie: mundorf) also requires a number of hours of break in? ( that i found to be too long )
do they really need to be broken in? kahit broken in na naman ang drivers???
Any component, kahit na iyong internal cables, need some time to break-in. Thats just me as i based it from numerous experiences.
-
Anybody with experience in changing the xover resistors? Would just like to ask if there would be improvements in changing the resistors in the xover. If there would be, could you give me an idea on what I could expect? What resistor brand would you suggest? Where could I get it?
Am using a B&W 601s3. Changed the caps to mundorf supreme with great results. Going to change the internal wires soon. Thought of changing the resistors as well when I open it up. ;D
Hope someone could help.
Jason
Changing the resistors to better type (mills wirewound or mundorf resistors) will make the sound more free flowing, hindi sakal. Make sure though that you get the correct wattage as using a lower value might damage your speakers.
-
Thanks gearhead and ctlim for your advises and comments. I was thinking that the wires and the caps would be the next step in tweaking the 9.5s. The first tweak I did was to add a super tweater to augment the highs being produced by the silk dome tweeter. With the super tweeter the highs of the 9.5 was extended without being harsh. Actually the highs became sweeter and details were added. Likewise, there was also an improvement on the mids and lows. The lows being tighter and more focused. BTW I am using the 9.5 in pure stereo mode, that is why I had to find a way to improve the highs as the 9.5 is laid back and being a British speaker. Todate, with out the wire and cap upgrade yet, i am enjoying the additional highend details (w/o fatigue) and a more focus and tight base.
Gearhead,
When you said 1 meter per run, that would be 5 meters as there are 5 wire colors?
Thanks and regards,
JoeyGS
Just open up the speaker to see the length needed for the internal cables.
If you intend to change both the internal cables and caps, then include changing the resistors. They will not cost a bomb and you could get a substantial improvement.
Any upgrade component you need, don't hesitate to ask as I may be able to provide it to you.
Happy tweaking.
-
Changing the resistors to better type (mills wirewound or mundorf resistors) will make the sound more free flowing, hindi sakal. Make sure though that you get the correct wattage as using a lower value might damage your speakers.
Thanks sir. Do you have an idea how much it would cost? Could you PM me prices on the resistors, hook up wires and IEC plug for DIY powercord? I have a spare Hospital grade plug and would like to utilize it. Please quote me on a meter of powercord as well. :)
Thanks.
Jason
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Thanks sir. Do you have an idea how much it would cost? Could you PM me prices on the resistors, hook up wires and IEC plug for DIY powercord? I have a spare Hospital grade plug and would like to utilize it. Please quote me on a meter of powercord as well. :)
Thanks.
Jason
Itemize the list you need. If cables, in meters and if caps or resistors, what are the exact values.
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May we know what tweeters you used for the super highs. ::) I might try it with my 9.1's, though , as is, I find it musical already. ;D
Also, anybody actually tried mondorf caps on their diamonds? Please give a short review of before and after. Tnx :)
A jbl titanium tweeter was used. I had diy_master do the entire assembly (tweeter, crossover and stand)
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I just upgraded my newly acquired speakers, the QLN Signature series. I had replaced all the cheap resistors to Mundorf metal oxide resistors, the tweeter caps to Obbligato Premium caps and all internal wires to Neotech UPOCC.
With the resistor change, the music coming out of the speakers become more free flowing (hindi na sakal). Now it has a lot better dynamics. The caps upgrade made the sound more detailed but with refinement, walang harshness. The soundstage had increased and the separation of instruments had improved.
Total cost of this upgrade was roughly around S$200, and it was really worth it.
Using Scanspeak MidBass Drivers
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b331/hendrix142002/P1030142.jpg)
Using Seas Tweeters
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b331/hendrix142002/P1030143.jpg)
Inside the cabinet with the stuffing.
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b331/hendrix142002/P1030144.jpg)
The crossover inside the cabinet
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b331/hendrix142002/P1030145.jpg)
The original crossover
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b331/hendrix142002/P1030146.jpg)
The upgraded crossover
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b331/hendrix142002/P1030156.jpg)
The speakers now making music at my set-up
(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b331/hendrix142002/P1030120.jpg)
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finally was able to tweak my diamond 9.5 too. i already have the red audiophiler
6.8uf/400V 3% tweeter cap to replace the electrolytic close to the 1R5 resistor,
but i wasn't ready for how hard it took me to do just the 4.7uf electrolytic caps.
(http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/5002/igp5585sc1.jpg)
(http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/8282/igp5587lx5.jpg)
i tried to do the operation with all the wires still attached so had trouble replacing
the capacitors. i will try to do the operation outside the cabinet by removing all or
most of the connecting wires first. here's the partially modified crossover.
(http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/4038/dsc5465.jpg)
cost for the 4 polypropylene caps from raon is P1k more or less. bought them there
quite a long time ago. but for those truly wanting to make the most of this speaker
might go with the mundorf, clarity, ampohm or audicap instead. for us on a budget,
these affordable polypropylenes are truly bang-for-the-buck already.
the original crossover:
(http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/2262/igp5582pd8.jpg)
my one regret was not remembering to photograph the underside. otherwise i could
have drawn the complete schematic for this crossover network.
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very nice sir gearhead!!!
what i really miss with the 9.5 is the slam, parang mas tight ang bass niya compared to the 9.6 which i'm using right now, kaya was also very interested with the upcoming 10.5 and or 10.7 ;D haven't had the nerve to open my 9.6 to see the xover.
keep us updated! sana you could also tweak na the midrange caps.
i presume lumakas yun loudness ng highs, not necessarily the entension?
yun1R5 resistor para saan?
wala bang caps for the bass?
if ever i would be changing the caps, important na same yun "uf" rating? how about the "V" rating?
thanks!
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we both have the 9.5 and 9.6 din.... and i've always said the 9.5 to have more slam for movies. when i was listening to cd's, the 9.6 appeared to have the slight advantage in terms of musicality w/c i attribute to the dome midrange nga. still i was more on movies then, and the 9.5 complements my 9.cs well so my brother got the 9.6.
but when i tested it again with my turntable, the 9.5 had clearly the advantage in terms of soundstage, cohesion and openness. the 9.6 hasn't been used for a while so i'm not sure if it has something to do with it sounding a bit confused. there's too much midrange, a little of the highs, and timid bass. the complexities of it being a four-way design sort of had become its liability. not saying it's that bad, just saying i like the 9.5 better. they say the 9.1 is the best of the diamonds, but i wouldn't wanna lose the 9.5's bass... i will miss it.
keep us updated! sana you could also tweak na the midrange caps.
yun1R5 resistor para saan? wala bang caps for the bass?
if ever i would be changing the caps, important na same yun "uf" rating? how about the "V" rating?
thanks!
just to clarify, there are only two capacitors. the tweeter cap is 6.8uf (the crossover to the tweeter is i think 2.2khz). for the midrange, the value is 4.7uf. both of them are 400v since that's the only one available - can't find nothing between the original 50v and hopefully 100v-250v. even sa mundorf, 400v and 600v din kaya ang lalaki ng sizes.
i really feel that the drivers can deliver much more, that's why i said also that there's probably more to be had by changing most of the components. if we can change the resistors to non-inductive films and the coils to air cores (like from sir edwin's QLN speakers above), that will truly unleash this speaker's potentials.
-
what would be the difference with
using a 3.3uf instead of a 4.7uf?
using 400-600V instead of 50V?
ano use ng 1R5 resistor?
thanks uli!
-
what would be the difference with
using a 3.3uf instead of a 4.7uf?
Your crossover frequency will change. Say your woofer originally operates from 20 hz to 1200 hz, pwede maging 20 hz to 1000 hz na lang. Then your midrange will work from 1200 hz above.. mag kaka hole yung frequency response, or pwede mag overlap magiging 20 hz to 1400 hz.. double naman ang 1200 to 1400 hz mo
using 400-600V instead of 50V? . The higher voltage caps will be able to handle more power. No change to fr response. If i am not mistaken a voltage of 250 volts is already enough for most speakers.
ano use ng 1R5 resistor?
thanks uli!
-
thanks qguy! :)
bigla lang akong napa isip mag tweak ;D ;D ;D
-
how do you burn in the caps?
gearhead,
i think you mentioned in your other post that you placed it in a 110v transformer? having burned-in prior to installation, was the changes immediate? parang i read somewhere na 100hours or so para lumabas true potential ng mundorf ata or any caps for that matter
if ever pala i would change the caps of my 9.6, basta wag baguhin yun specs ng "uf", thanks for the enlightenment! ;D
-
qguy thanks for reply! ;D ;D ;D
-
how do you burn in the caps?
gearhead,
i think you mentioned in your other post that you placed it in a 110v transformer? having burned-in prior to installation, was the changes immediate? parang i read somewhere na 100hours or so para lumabas true potential ng mundorf ata or any caps for that matter.
yes, i just connected them to the 110v output of my transformer. 220v might be too much kasi. left them there for about two days. since continuous high level signal naman, even 24 hrs siguro me difference na. yung 100 hrs kasi pertains to when you use the cap straight to the speakers. alam mo naman music eh transient in nature and low-level lang compared to our ac line voltage. using 110v as break-in signal, make sure lang din that your capacitor working voltage is rated at 170v or higher.
be careful too that you place them somewhere na di magiging electrical hazard siya esp. sa mga bata. also, be careful about shorting anything... even after removing the caps from the x'former. let the charge drain first for a few hours.
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congrats sa tweaks/mods!!!
ok ang red/audiophiler caps sa eleshop.
meron din kay mang gerry - aerovox oilcap 2uf at wima polypropylene 4.7uf.
for me mas maganda na, mas mura pa ;D
-
yup. saan naman yung ke mang gerry? ;)
-
yup. saan naman yung ke mang gerry? ;)
txt.call 09217430558 or call 4002762
other cap values meron din just ask him what available, very accomodating naman siya
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Will this mod be better for the centers also?
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Will this mod be better for the centers also?
. Yes
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here's some updates on my wharfe diamonds mods/tweaks:
(http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/2968/dsc5496copy.jpg)
Added the 6.8uf red MKP capacitor. i had to pull out some of the wires first so i can
work on the board outside the box. i'll admit it's not too pretty a job given how the
pcb holes' distance aren't enough to really mount the capacitors flush on the board.
it's even a bit overcrowded on the 6.8uf side.
as promised, i have taken a picture at the backside of the crossover board. do note
that the orientation is taken as if you're looking at it from the top but as if you can
peer through to see the pcb layout below. you can get a comparison with the pic
above where most of the wiring is on the left side as how it is oriented too on the pic
below. i can do the schematic diagram also but that could be for another day if some-
one wouldn't have done so yet given the two pictures from where to base that easily.
(http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/8964/dsc5495copy.jpg)
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i've already done the center crossover too (the diamond 9.cs). here's the original board:
(http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/2971/dsc5500copy.jpg)
again, same orientation from the setup pictures of the diamond 9.5 previously.
(http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/2640/dsc5497copy.jpg)
i have a multimeter with capacitance tester. i have measured the electrolytic caps
i disconnected from the board and i found them to be off rating by quite a large
margin. 4.7uf's are about 5.5uf in actual measurement. for 6.8uf it's about 8.4uf,
and for the 8.2uf it's about 9.8uf. not sure if the design values for the inductors
and resistors were based on the actual vs. measured values though. it's good i
got some "cheap" replacement 250V MKP's so they're not as large as the 400V's.
-
gearhead,
do mean that dapat tinaasan mo dapat and values ng caps na pinalit mo?
how did it sound?
thanks!
-
that's why i mentioned i am not sure if the design used actual or measured values. but i think they would not really take much time measuring each and every component so to be safe, i used the indicated values as reference. i measured each and every one of the MKP caps i bought and the 4.7uf and 6.8 caps are within 0.01 to 0.10 of their indicated values... given also that the audiophiler's are 3% tolerance caps. the other caps i bought are 5% tolerance. for the 8.2 uf, i just paralleled a 4.7uf and 3.5uf (measured values) MKP's.
results are that these have opened up the high registers enough to be noticeable but not too much as to be grating.
-
hope to hear those modified 9.5 9cs! :)
-
you're welcome. only problem with that is we don't have non-modded 9.cs/9.5's to compare.
-
(http://img268.imageshack.us/img268/2968/dsc5496copy.jpg)
the round black object seems to be a small inductor, apparently it's connected to the HF+ and HF- (tweeter) to provide a second order high pass filtering.
if want more sizzle from the tweeters you can try replacing the 6.8 uF capacitor with a smaller value, say 4.7 or 3.3 uF, and bypass the 1.5 ohm resistor. have done a similar tweak before with my old onkyo bookshelves and the highs really opened up.
caution: there is a danger of overloading the tweeter if you simply bypass the resistor without replacing the capacitor with a lower value.
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thanks, mark.
i missed putting a label on that from the other pic above. yes, it seems like a 2nd-pass filter to give it a 12db slope. well, to paraphrase what we always say... "tweak according to taste". :D as i've said, the original 6.8uf electrolytics measured almost 8.4uf, and have replaced them with 3% tolerance 6.8uf MKP's. maybe not totally bypass the resistor but change it to 1.0 ohm to leave some tweeter protection. i think the less DF losses of the MKP's made up for the change to a lower capacitance.
-
guys.. suggestion i'm thinking of converting my 9.1 into floorstanders.. maybe larger volume of enclosure may inprove bass response..
-
Guys, has anybody here added a supertweeter on their stock speakers. I read wonderful reviews from diy people on the benefits of adding supertweeters on dull or neutral sounding speakers. Words like airy, detailed, wider soundstage and presence comes to view with the addition.
I actually experimented with my neutral sounding vintage polk audio ra-8tl fs speakers by adding a cheap but nice sounding small horn tweeters (mylar not piezo type) with included mini stand made by dai chi, (mdl. HT D-8). The result for me is unbelivable for such an inexpensive mod. The adjective stated above where all realize by me and I now I began to love this speakers again. tnx :)
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congrats sa tweaks/mods!!!
ok ang red/audiophiler caps sa eleshop.
meron din kay mang gerry - aerovox oilcap 2uf at wima polypropylene 4.7uf.
for me mas maganda na, mas mura pa ;D
Sir ojofool, Good Morning... Pwede ko pa ba malaman kung san si Mang Gerry??? Salamat po...
-
Sir ojofool, Good Morning... Pwede ko pa ba malaman kung san si Mang Gerry??? Salamat po...
+1
Ako din po Sir gusto ko malaman :)
-
Sir ojofool, Good Morning... Pwede ko pa ba malaman kung san si Mang Gerry??? Salamat po...
0921-7430558
400-2762
near southsuperhiway, just after quirino avenue.
-
Salamat Sir ojofool, Pwede po ba exact address at name ng store nya??? kasi po busy lagi phone at one time lang nagreply sa text then wala na... Dito po ako mangagaling sa Pasig City, Thanks po...
-
Salamat Sir ojofool, Pwede po ba exact address at name ng store nya??? kasi po busy lagi phone at one time lang nagreply sa text then wala na... Dito po ako mangagaling sa Pasig City, Thanks po...
bahay nya yun, hindi store, sorry di ko pwede ipamigay address.
-
Salamat Sir ojofool, Pwede po ba exact address at name ng store nya??? kasi po busy lagi phone at one time lang nagreply sa text then wala na... Dito po ako mangagaling sa Pasig City, Thanks po...
tawagan mo muna sa phone para magmeet kayo......okey na naman yung phone nya.....saan ka sa pasig? sa pasig din ako, sa palatiw kaliwa.......ano ang requirements mo? baka matulungan kita.... ;D
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Magkapit bahay lang po tayo, dito po ako Barangay Maybunga stella mariz po.... Hanap po me better caps using to modify my speaker po (Audiopyler) and some wima caps for LM8xxx series diy amps...
-
0921-7430558
400-2762
near southsuperhiway, just after quirino avenue.
Thanks Sir Rene,
Handa ding tumulong si tito Tony - salamat in advance din po :)
-
Sunday boredom struck me so i've mod my wharf 9.1
-replaced stock electrolytic tweeter caps with polypropylene
-varnished the vinyl :) look a lot better imho
(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn28/ryan750_mhz/P1010599.jpg)
(http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn28/ryan750_mhz/P1010596.jpg)
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Sir gearhead,
Good day. Ask ko lang po, why we need to put the non polar capacitor to 110VAC first (for 24Hrs) before connecting to tweeter??? What is the difference...
I brought 4pcs. 2.2uf/400V Mundorf Audiophiler Kondensator and try to modified /tweak my Kevler speaker and with the help of Sir Mel.
-
plan ko na din po i-tweak ang Wharfedales ko...
ano po ba talaga magandang gamitin for budget conscious:
Aerovox OIL Capacitors
Wima polypropylene(frm Mang Gerry) or
Red Audiophiler (Raon)?
may idea po ba kayo magkano ang
Mundorf caps? baka kaunti lang ang difference
ng price pero malaki naman ang impact sa sound
e di sa Mundorf M-Cap na lang ;D
Thanks!
-
plan ko na din po i-tweak ang Wharfedales ko...
ano po ba talaga magandang gamitin for budget conscious:
Aerovox OIL Capacitors
Wima polypropylene(frm Mang Gerry) or
Red Audiophiler (Raon)?
may idea po ba kayo magkano ang
Mundorf caps? baka kaunti lang ang difference
ng price pero malaki naman ang impact sa sound
e di sa Mundorf M-Cap na lang ;D
Thanks!
The difference soundwise between the Mundorf M-Cap and Mundorf Supreme is a lot. If you have the budget, go for the Supreme. The silver in oil is even better than the supreme but it is twice the price.
-
The difference soundwise between the Mundorf M-Cap and Mundorf Supreme is a lot. If you have the budget, go for the Supreme. The silver in oil is even better than the supreme but it is twice the price.
Inquired about Mundurf M-Caps (AudioAmplified in Libis QC)
latest prices are:
4.7uF M-Cap Supreme --------- P1,754.00
6.8uF M-Cap Supreme --------- P2,072.00
4.7uF M-Cap Supreme Silver/Oil - P4,467.00 * :o
6.8uF M-Cap Supreme Silver/Oil - P5,540.00 * :o
Didn't bother asking about M-Cap Supreme Silver/Gold/Oil ;D
also found this website that did some testing with different Capacitors
http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html (http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html)
*The M-CAP Supreme Silver/Oil is one of my favourite capacitors! I can only underline what Mundorf states: “…wonderfully spacious and detailed sound reproduction … full and smooth tonal richness and diversity. This capacitor’s ability to bring out the finest nuances and the subtlest distinctions make the music sound more alive and “juicy”, …Wonderfully spacious music reproduction… ”. Music detail and depth throughout from top to bottom. Very smooth and liquid. To exaggerate things: it makes a standard Supreme Cap sound slightly rough!
When I have the time and budget to replace those electrolytic caps in my Wharfs I hope to hear those dramatic changes mentioned in humblehomemadehifi site... ;)
but first I would like to try Mang Gerry's Aerovox Oil Capacitors for only P100.00 ;D
-
Inquired about Mundurf M-Caps (AudioAmplified in Libis QC)
latest prices are:
4.7uF M-Cap Supreme --------- P1,754.00
6.8uF M-Cap Supreme --------- P2,072.00
4.7uF M-Cap Supreme Silver/Oil - P4,467.00 * :o
6.8uF M-Cap Supreme Silver/Oil - P5,540.00 * :o
Didn't bother asking about M-Cap Supreme Silver/Gold/Oil ;D
also found this website that did some testing with different Capacitors
http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html[/url
*The M-CAP Supreme Silver/Oil is one of my favourite capacitors! I can only underline what Mundorf states: “…wonderfully spacious and detailed sound reproduction … full and smooth tonal richness and diversity. This capacitor’s ability to bring out the finest nuances and the subtlest distinctions make the music sound more alive and “juicy”, …Wonderfully spacious music reproduction… ”. Music detail and depth throughout from top to bottom. Very smooth and liquid. To exaggerate things: it makes a standard Supreme Cap sound slightly rough!
When I have the time and budget to replace those electrolytic caps in my Wharfs I hope to hear those dramatic changes mentioned in humblehomemadehifi site... ;)
but first I would like to try Mang Gerry's Aerovox Oil Capacitors for only P100.00 ;D
(http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html)
Just my advice. There is no point of spending too much on a not so expensive speaker as there will be limitation due to the cheap tweeters they are using. The supremes will be more than enough. It is better to get a better speaker than spending more on a capacitor. On my case i always buy used speakers. This gives me a better option of the money i spend and therefore more practical to buy better and more expensive caps for my upgrades.
I currently got a reference 3a mm gen ii for around php12k. Even using silver in gold in this case is still worth it.
-
+1
Inquired about Mundurf M-Caps (AudioAmplified in Libis QC)
latest prices are:
4.7uF M-Cap Supreme --------- P1,754.00
6.8uF M-Cap Supreme --------- P2,072.00
4.7uF M-Cap Supreme Silver/Oil - P4,467.00 * :o
6.8uF M-Cap Supreme Silver/Oil - P5,540.00 * :o
Didn't bother asking about M-Cap Supreme Silver/Gold/Oil ;D
also found this website that did some testing with different Capacitors
http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html (http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html)
*The M-CAP Supreme Silver/Oil is one of my favourite capacitors! I can only underline what Mundorf states: “…wonderfully spacious and detailed sound reproduction … full and smooth tonal richness and diversity. This capacitor’s ability to bring out the finest nuances and the subtlest distinctions make the music sound more alive and “juicy”, …Wonderfully spacious music reproduction… ”. Music detail and depth throughout from top to bottom. Very smooth and liquid. To exaggerate things: it makes a standard Supreme Cap sound slightly rough!
When I have the time and budget to replace those electrolytic caps in my Wharfs I hope to hear those dramatic changes mentioned in humblehomemadehifi site... ;)
but first I would like to try Mang Gerry's Aerovox Oil Capacitors for only P100.00 ;D
don't spend too much for capacitors.......not worth it....take a lot of salt with the comments at "those dramatic changes mentioned in humblehomemadehifi site".......i am not a believer in caps.....
Teflon caps like " Vcaps" are much better in properties than polypropylenes like those, if you really want the best, those teflons are the best.....only it costs more than your speakers..... :D :D :D
only because electrolytics can "dry up", i will change them to films like teflons and polypropylenes or even mylars.....
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It seems to me a lot here are bored with their speakers - thus enjoying the fun of the "tweaks" - I did same before and it is really fun.
From wharf 9.6, and here, the ideal target are the tweeters - so lots of peddled hyped caps flew in the air - and so thus with money, time, efforts, and failed expectations.
I oftentimes wonder why so many hobbyist frowns on tone controls and/or equalizers - which are readily available to correct response anomaly in a speaker (if they know the anomaly, though my guts tell me its this "unknown" in our usual stuff) - or to cusomize one taste of sound as in ones coffee.
These are merry-go-round of no substantial (and sometimes surprising) results - unknowingly altering frequency cross-overs that may definitely result to some sonic change - but if for the better is all but a guess or subjective assessment of the diyer.
Speakers are never flat - before we have the curves of speakers in the specs, now its a goner - simply because taste for speakers will largely depend on the subjectivity of the owner.
Simple addition of high sensitivity tweeters could have done the trick, and attenuate to balance to ones taste. Equalizers in conjunction with analyzers are often employed by those who understood their issues - but maybe used to tailorfit our ears.
But then - go for the fun. This is not the type that the end justifies the means. If you meant otherwise, do the simpler things. Simple problem deserves simple tweaks!
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wow nose bleed ako.
*PIN* topic thanks guys
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It seems to me a lot here are bored with their speakers - thus enjoying the fun of the "tweaks" - I did same before and it is really fun.
From wharf 9.6, and here, the ideal target are the tweeters - so lots of peddled hyped caps flew in the air - and so thus with money, time, efforts, and failed expectations.
I oftentimes wonder why so many hobbyist frowns on tone controls and/or equalizers - which are readily available to correct response anomaly in a speaker (if they know the anomaly, though my guts tell me its this "unknown" in our usual stuff) - or to cusomize one taste of sound as in ones coffee.
These are merry-go-round of no substantial (and sometimes surprising) results - unknowingly altering frequency cross-overs that may definitely result to some sonic change - but if for the better is all but a guess or subjective assessment of the diyer.
Speakers are never flat - before we have the curves of speakers in the specs, now its a goner - simply because taste for speakers will largely depend on the subjectivity of the owner.
Simple addition of high sensitivity tweeters could have done the trick, and attenuate to balance to ones taste. Equalizers in conjunction with analyzers are often employed by those who understood their issues - but maybe used to tailorfit our ears.
But then - go for the fun. This is not the type that the end justifies the means. If you meant otherwise, do the simpler things. Simple problem deserves simple tweaks!
yeah ? well probably cause you spent on caps more expensive than the tweeters on your beloved WHARFEDALES.
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yeah ? well probably cause you spent on caps more expensive than the tweeters on your beloved WHARFEDALES.
Would you like to share your experience with the same upgrade on your other speakers?
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In fairness, if you have developed an ear that is sharp to identify harsh highs, finding a good tweeter is quite difficult. Again, in this game, cost will not tell you the quality of sound emanating from the driver. I sometimes end up with a number - but when I found something good, I stock some of them for future use just in case, especially if they are dirt cheap.
In my wharf 8.3 with 86db in my previous life, adding a good found (P100/pair piezo with 107db sensitivity does the trick). For the speaker not to see the new device, got to put a series resistor to equalize the 107db to 86db. The cross over is built on the tweeter, and the high value resistor does not impact on the total impedance of the speaker as seen by the amplifier.
Too bad, wen I came back to buy more tweeters of that brand, nowhere can I find any more stocks - even in other stores. many piezo tweets I tried sound harsh / coarse. But once in a while, a gold is among the trashes of pretenders.
Another option I found early on is to buy vintage drivers. I am fond of vintage horn tweeters from branded speaker makers. I have kenwood metal horns (silver rectangle), round coral horns - high sensitivity drivers being sold cheap because the one selling is clueless or do not care at all. I encountered even a magus metal horn 5 x 10 inches that sound so clean that I stocked it!
But somehow I have to agree with others - those efforts and cost in upgrading capacitors to enhance the highs - especially with those souped up capacitors, tend to cost impractically high, considering the benefit one may derive from it, if there is - as a matter of fact - any. I have the impression that the difference in sonic is more a result of altered cross-over frequencies because of capacitor values chosen. I might be wrong since I have not ventured in this path at all.
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Would you like to share your experience with the same upgrade on your other speakers?
you mean cap upgrade ? i have a titus floorstander that i upgraded to mundorf supremes, dale resistors and gold plated copper binding posts.. instrument separation and transparency is much much better (this is the first time i truly appreciated the rippingtons (and other music for that matter)). highs are well textured, sound is much bigger.. oh and my speakers now disappear depending on what's playing. also when i play my music, it's like the speakers are just furniture and the center image sounds like it's coming out really from the middle. amazing on concerts in that any more upgrades lalabas na yung kumakanta sa tv.
on the dali's, i just had them upgraded to mcaps and dale resistors, sound is more detail than before, and also bigger soundstage. cleaner too.
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I had aready done.quite a number of speaker crossover parts upgrade, maybe 2 dozen or more. Those were my previous speakers, my frieds and some other people who just not handy with the soldering iron.
Even before there was mundorf, i was using hovland and auricap. Mundorf supreme is my favorite as it is a step better than the two. I like pretty much better the silver in oil but its quite expensive.
I kept doing it as it transform the speaker. Lately, i have learned that using mundorf silver internal cables for the tweeter is a lot better than their copper. If you want to save cost, just use it on the positive side and copper on the negative.
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V-cap Teflon caps is the best there is.....
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Personally, I like choke tweaks better than capacitor tweaks on speakers.
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Personally, I like choke tweaks better than capacitor tweaks on speakers.
choke tweaks ? enlighten us :).
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I have a thread on maximizing speaker performance
http://www.pinoydvd.com/index.php/topic,119685.0.html
I have discussed choke tweaks around pages 5 and 6 of the thread.
For chokes or inductors what is important is the winding technique and number of turns used. You need to experiment yourself on this matter as these issue is sensitive to many companies such commonsense audio, trodt, etc. In short these are company secrets.
In my thread, I have used 6 turns as a start to those who want to do choke tweaks. You can experiment further by increasing/decreasing turns or adding additional turns eg 1 turn so total turns will become 1+6. You can even use 1+3+6 if you want.
So, you have
speaker wire speaker wire
>-------------> 1+3+6 >----------------> speaker
In my experience and from what I have learned, these choke tweaks are better suited for speakers as voice coils are essentially inductors. This is my opinion.
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V-cap Teflon caps is the best there is.....
I hevent heard the Duelands, but some says it is better than the v caps. If cost is not an issue, for sure all the caps i used will be these two.
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from what I have learned, these choke tweaks are better suited for speakers as voice coils are essentially inductors.
essentially true for certain frequencies.....inductors have lagging power factors but when used as motors (a speaker voice coil/magnet assembly is essentially a motor) can have leading or lagging power factors....
if you want to upgrade your coils, use heavier gage wires, for example if the original coil used gage#20, then a gage#18 up is a better replacement....
here are some coil inductor calculators on the net:
http://www3.telus.net/chemelec/Calculators/A-Inductance.htm
http://www.coilgun.info/mark2/inductorsim.htm
http://www.colomar.com/Shavano/inductor_info.html
if you are going to do mods on your cross-overs, it is better you know what coils you are doing/making....
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WOW!
Daming options pala kung talagang gugustohin.
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WOW!
Daming options pala kung talagang gugustohin.
yup, these guys have been doing basic tweaks, if you want the best and brightest upgrades, these are the ways to go....
1. replace all capacitors to Teflons, : http://www.v-cap.com/copper-teflon-capacitors.php
2. replace the pc board to FR4 of teflon boards with 3 oz. copper, http://www.pcs-electronics.com/teflon-laminate-copper-foil-p-1322.html
3. replace inductors to copper foils instead of copper wire,; https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=22
these things will provide you with the ultimate tweaking experience....
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^One issue I could see with above proposal is the size of the components. May not fit in BS speakers.
Furthermore, the cost of the components may be easily higher than the cost of the speakers by several times making it out of reach for many of us.
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yup, these guys have been doing basic tweaks, if you want the best and brightest upgrades, these are the ways to go....
1. replace all capacitors to Teflons, : http://www.v-cap.com/copper-teflon-capacitors.php
2. replace the pc board to FR4 of teflon boards with 3 oz. copper, http://www.pcs-electronics.com/teflon-laminate-copper-foil-p-1322.html
3. replace inductors to copper foils instead of copper wire,; https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=22
these things will provide you with the ultimate tweaking experience....
Got to read the stuff - the v-cap. I did not find any that explains the reason - except that the one who developed is a professional pianist - plus descriptive words for the product that excite the audio hobbyist - and most of all the price of 0.47uF cap is $279. Guys, meet Chris Venhaus, the maker of "better sounding power cord".
Yeah - man in his quest for the best always aim for the ideals (the perfect item), even if it is not quite useful in the real world - nor is there a validation of its claims. A perfect capacitor for an imperfect driver, in an imperfect listening room.
Anybody care to open a v-cap and traced its real manufacturer? I do not want to dampen any enthusiasm but - oh well, happy tweaking then!
^One issue I could see with above proposal is the size of the components. May not fit in BS speakers.
Furthermore, the cost of the components may be easily higher than the cost of the speakers by several times making it out of reach for many of us.
I think you don't even need to go this far if you are serious in your stuff!
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as far as caps go, Teflon is number 1, followed by polycarbonate at 2nd, then polypropylene is 3rd...
afaik, polycarbonate has become unobtainium, styrol or polystyrene is also no2, but is not available in large values......
i would avoid polyesters like mylars......and tantalums.....
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I believe Glass and silver mica should also be included.
Why avoid polyester caps? Many audio companies still use them.
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mylars are know to be temperature unstable...
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I think as long as it is not placed near resistors (as these heat up due to power dissipation) temp should not be an issue.
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yes, but polypropylene caps are now abundant and cheap, generic polypropylenes are just as good as branded ones....i purchased several 4ufd/400volt polys from APEXJr. for a $1 each....
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It is quite difficult to source polypropelene locally. Except for Spin Electronics, Watsons, Eleshop (only few values available) and the occasional parts along Ronquillo (doon sa nagkakariton) it is very difficult for someone in the province eg Bulacan.
If only DEECO and Alexan can source these parts it would help many DIYers.
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^that is why i buy on-line from the states....
i hate to give up my secret, but if you know how to look, you will find so many items from those magkakariton sa mga sidewalks ng raon at evangelista.....hindi alam ng mga nagbebenta kung ano yung mga items at kung magkano ang tunay na value......kung marunong kang tumingin marami kang mapupulot doon na mga "real gems"....
sa roks naman sa kabila ng avenida, nakabile ako ng vishay 1k metal film resistors for 1peso each.......kung alam lang nila...... ;D swerte ko..... :D :D
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I know what you mean. I was able to buy Evox PFR polypropelenes and a lot of silver micas along Ronquillo - pakyawan style ;D In case someone is looking for quite cheap 1uF monolithic caps I also know where along Raon ;D
Speaking of temp sensitivity I have damaged quite a few of polystyrene caps just by nearly touching them with the body of my soldering iron. As such, I have stopped buying these caps. I wonder why Alexan stock on these and not polypropelene caps knowing these critters are very sensitive to heat.
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ok so where can we source out this better caps locally?
there is...
Raon
red audiophiler caps
eleshop, ronquillo, quiapo manila
tel# 7332925 / 7332931
carrying caps like?
mang gerry
0921-7430558
400-2762
near southsuperhiway, just after quirino avenue.
carrying caps like?
AudioAmplified in Libis QC
Mundurf M-Caps
latest prices are:
4.7uF M-Cap Supreme --------- P1,754.00
6.8uF M-Cap Supreme --------- P2,072.00
4.7uF M-Cap Supreme Silver/Oil - P4,467.00
6.8uF M-Cap Supreme Silver/Oil - P5,540.00
M-Cap Supreme Silver/Gold/Oil
who else guys?
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polystyrene caps
they are best for stability....silvered micas are also applicable....these caps are used in phono preamps and such types of circuits....
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ok so where can we source out this better caps locally?
there is...
Raon
red audiophiler caps
eleshop, ronquillo, quiapo manila
tel# 7332925 / 7332931
carrying caps like?
mang gerry
0921-7430558
400-2762
near southsuperhiway, just after quirino avenue.
carrying caps like?
AudioAmplified in Libis QC
Mundurf M-Caps
latest prices are:
4.7uF M-Cap Supreme --------- P1,754.00
6.8uF M-Cap Supreme --------- P2,072.00
4.7uF M-Cap Supreme Silver/Oil - P4,467.00
6.8uF M-Cap Supreme Silver/Oil - P5,540.00
M-Cap Supreme Silver/Gold/Oil
who else guys?
Difficult to use Mang Gerry or Audio Amplified if you're doing development type of w ork targeting high number of clients. Also, difficult to justify high BOM cost in current economy. There are certainly cheaper alternatives or circuit solutions for premium caps.
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ang intended market kasi nyang botique caps yung mga me pera.........hindi yan pang masa...
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thanks for the input guys.
if i were to upgrade this Yamaha NS-20M what type of budget caps is better?
(http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa352/saladmastermanila/memorial091.jpg)
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I suggest you go with the Audiophiler caps at Eleshop then parallel it with 10nF polypropelene (Ero KT 1801) caps at Spin Electronics instead of the 10nF Vishay MKP1837.
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I suggest you go with the Audiophiler caps at Eleshop then parallel it with 10nF polypropelene (Ero KT 1801) caps at Spin Electronics instead of the 10nF Vishay MKP1837.
thanks rascal....
heres what i do just now a few minutes ago...
xover of my Tannoy 611
before
(http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa352/saladmastermanila/xover004.jpg)
after
(http://i1193.photobucket.com/albums/aa352/saladmastermanila/xover010.jpg)
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Very nice!
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transition from electros to films is in itself a definite improvement...
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im like :-\ then ::) so on :o ;D
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im like :-\ then ::) so on :o ;D
good man yourself...... ;D ;D ;D
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good man yourself...... ;D ;D ;D
maybe ill try the more expensive caps and see where it goes... but for now im 8)
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Bro I suggest you experiment with chokes. Although this path is less travelled I believe it gives more gain.
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Bro I suggest you experiment with chokes. Although this path is less travelled I believe it gives more gain.
sure... and again thanks guys for the very informative course.... ;)
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In all honesty and based on specifications, the best caps there are in this order - teflons, polycarbonate, glass, polystyrene, silver mica, polypropelene, polyester etc. However, making best use and having best results audio wise is maybe tricky. This is the very reason why Mundorfs, Auricaps etc are able to have some believe they have "best" results even if they are not using the best caps around. As such, some people have taken this path. Just buy Mundorfs, Auricaps etc to get "best" results. Why spend time experimenting on caps with best specification if you cannot guarantee good audio performance or "proven" audio performance? How is it that these teflons, glass, silver mica etc caps can be used for UHF and mission critical applications such as space applications, telecoms, industrial etc are not that popular for audio application where BW is a mere 20KHz?
As such, I think it is a challenge for technically minded people to make inroads on the mindset of some people who have become "enslaved" with this mentality. I hope these technically minded people can make good contributions and show easy ways to make the most out of these teflons, glass, silver mica etc.
I am not putting any company down, just trying to make some sense why some very good caps are not that popular in audio. Maybe these companies can also invest in R & D to make use of these caps. I think it will be good for all of us.
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as i have time and again said in several threads, "the less you know about electronics or things electrical, the more likely you are going to fall for these hypes and myths, in the same token, the more you know about electronics and things electrical and you are making a living out of it, the more you will go out of your way to propagate these myths..."
there are suckers born every minute.....let the people enjoy their money, life is short..... ;D ;D ;D
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Very well said ;D
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Maybe these companies can also invest in R & D to make use of these caps.
but that costs money.....whereas, capitalising on the ignorance of many costs nothing and bring in handsome profits...... ;D
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;D ;D ;D
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as i have time and again said in several threads, "the less you know about electronics or things electrical, the more likely you are going to fall for these hypes and myths, in the same token, the more you know about electronics and things electrical and you are making a living out of it, the more you will go out of your way to propagate these myths..."
there are suckers born every minute.....let the people enjoy their money, life is short..... ;D ;D ;D
Like ;)
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Like ;)
you like that ? yet you were so amazed at the diffference in my bookshelf titus when you heard it after a very minor tweak.
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nothing compares to the joy of diy'ing.......walang katapat na halaga yan....
now what happens to your speakers when you do capacitor tweaks?
you alter the frequency response......
the response is no longer the way it was originally...
and that is what you hear as an improvement, i will call it a "change"....
just so you have an idea.... a 1uf cap so labeled, can in reality be a 0.9 or a 1.1 cap if tolerance is 10%...this alone produces shifts in frequency response.....
so go ahead and change your caps if that will make you feel better, after all ikaw naman ang gagamit nyan, it is your right to feel good...... ;)
the same can be said about coil tweaks, the higher the gage of the wires used, the lower the losses....
power instead of being dissipated as heat on the coils are delivered to the voice coil instead and so more electrical power is available for conversion to sound...
the speaker being a "transducer"converts electrical energy from the amplifier to "acoustic" energy"
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Yes. DIY ... it's all in your hands.
For those who like to experience full control ... kabit ... tanggal ... deposit ... withdraw ;D ;D ;D
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Kung may perang pambili ng capacitor at nagandahan sa pagbabago ng tunog, bakit hindi ;D. Hindi natin mapipigilan ang tao kung saan siya masaya ;D.
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you like that ? yet you were so amazed at the diffference in my bookshelf titus when you heard it after a very minor tweak.
Like ko dahil bagay sa isang kagaya ko na walang pera at konti lang ang kaalaman sa technical aspects bout electronics BUT Like ko din yung speakers mo syempre. Magulo ba? Hindi. The thing is, kung may pera lang din ako gusto ko rin malaman ang epekto at ins and outs ng electronics maging myth man o katotohanan pero since wala nga akong pera so i'm good. Kuntento na ako sa kung ano ang meron ang nakayanan kong speakers. Kita mo nga puro preowned lang speakers ko at so fortunate na sa akin mo pinasa ang speakers mo. ;)
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cause and effect yan....there is a reason for doing the things that we do when it comes to DIY......
there are those who do tweaks without any clue as to what they are doing.......nakarinig lang na mahusay yung capcitor tweaks nakigaya na, tapos ipamamalita pa na maganda yung tweak.....pero tanugnin mo kung paano at bakit kinalilangan na palitan yung piyesa, blank stares lang ang mapapala mo....
meron akong kaibigan na mapera......malaki na natipid nya, dahil napigilan ko na gumastos ng gumastos......
but in the end hindi naman tayo parepareho, yung maganda sa akin maaring pangit sa iba....
kaya ako, hindi ko pupurihin yung mga gawa ko, hayaan kong yung ibang makakarinig ang magdecide kung gusto nila o hindi yung narinig nila......
okey na ko 'ron.... ;D ;D ;D
Happy Easter!!!!!!
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cause and effect yan....there is a reason for doing the things that we do when it comes to DIY......
there are those who do tweaks without any clue as to what they are doing.......nakarinig lang na mahusay yung capcitor tweaks nakigaya na, tapos ipamamalita pa na maganda yung tweak.....pero tanugnin mo kung paano at bakit kinalilangan na palitan yung piyesa, blank stares lang ang mapapala mo....
meron akong kaibigan na mapera......malaki na natipid nya, dahil napigilan ko na gumastos ng gumastos......
but in the end hindi naman tayo parepareho, yung maganda sa akin maaring pangit sa iba....
kaya ako, hindi ko pupurihin yung mga gawa ko, hayaan kong yung ibang makakarinig ang magdecide kung gusto nila o hindi yung narinig nila......
okey na ko 'ron.... ;D ;D ;D
Happy Easter!!!!!!
Exactly!
were so fortunate that this guys exist here... kung hindi baka kung ano ano ng mamahaling tweak ang ginawa and in the end mas mahal pa ang tweak kesa sa speaker itself...
i love diy-ing, specialy kapag nadinig mona yung ginawa mo... fulfilling... ;) sa halagang 200pesos me nakita kang improvement at napasaya ng ginawa mo...ok na yun...
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Sa akin naman pinapa-try ko sa mga kaibigan ko iyung mga tweaks na ginawa ko para ma-validate iyung narinig ko. Mas mabuti iyung maraming tenga nakarinig kesa ikaw lang mag-isa. Kung naging ok sa kanila eh di marami kayong masaya.
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si mang gerry ang pang masa. aerovox 2uf oil caps, 100pesos@. afaik last month medyo marami pa siya
for other caps, just call him, very nice guy very easy to deal with.
oh btw he is THE MAN, or used to be, when it comes to cheap tubes..12ax7 12au7 6sn7 etc, baka nga nabili niyo ng mahal galing din sa kanya...o sa spin ;D ::)
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si mang gerry ang pang masa. aerovox 2uf oil caps, 100pesos@. afaik last month medyo marami pa siya
for other caps, just call him, very nice guy very easy to deal with.
oh btw he is THE MAN, or used to be, when it comes to cheap tubes..12ax7 12au7 6sn7 etc, baka nga nabili niyo ng mahal galing din sa kanya...o sa spin ;D ::)
speaking of mang gerry, i still have 20pcs of those wima mkp 4.7ufd/250 volt caps waiting to get used.....
sssshhhh...wag masyadong maingay!!! baka ma-offend yung mga bumile kay mang gerry ng mura tapos binenta ng mahal.......ganyan talaga ang negosyo.....law of supply and demand yan........
kaya nga hinihimok ko syang magbuo ng tube amps, kaysa magbenta ng tubes....
nabigyan ko na rin ng lecture sa paggawa ng power transformers,
Gerry is the man....
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tony magandang cathode follower caps yang 4.7uf na wima. i have many of those.
seryoso usapan pag capacitors ang topic.. ;D ;D
those 20uf 150VAC caps by aerovox sounds ok too.
one just need to look closer when looking for the right capacitors. there are many alternatives out there that would cost cheaper than mainstream.
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edrel, meron ka na palang end bells na nakatayo, nakita ko sa gawa ni alex na pp el84, ano size ng traffo nya?
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speaking of mang gerry, i still have 20pcs of those wima mkp 4.7ufd/250 volt caps waiting to get used.....
sssshhhh...wag masyadong maingay!!! baka ma-offend yung mga bumile kay mang gerry ng mura tapos binenta ng mahal.......ganyan talaga ang negosyo.....law of supply and demand yan........
kaya nga hinihimok ko syang magbuo ng tube amps, kaysa magbenta ng tubes....
nabigyan ko na rin ng lecture sa paggawa ng power transformers,
Gerry is the man....
oonga pala, yung mga pulang wima, may dalawa pa yata ako dito hehehe
kaya nga ako pag may nagtatanong, pinapadirecho ko kay mang gerry, wala na middleman. ;D
pag marami ang supply, ipitin para magkaroon ng demand? me ganun? maitanong nga kay mareng winnie M. ,,,baka soplahin ako ni MW, "kailangan pa ba imemorize yan?" ;D
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tony that was an EI76(1 inch). I have the 1 1/8, 1 1/4 and 1 1/2 inch upright covers. Each set comes with corresponding moulded insulators. Endbell finish is glossy black powder coat. Soon chrome plated finish will be available.
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oonga pala, yung mga pulang wima, may dalawa pa yata ako dito hehehe
kaya nga ako pag may nagtatanong, pinapadirecho ko kay mang gerry, wala na middleman. ;D
pag marami ang supply, ipitin para magkaroon ng demand? me ganun? maitanong nga kay mareng winnie M. ,,,baka soplahin ako ni MW, "kailangan pa ba imemorize yan?" ;D
paano ba yan? me nabile ako kay gery na tubes na tig 250 pesos, pero ng tinignan ko sa web......http://www.tubedepot.com/nos-6386.html
(http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-8476489043850_2155_5879510)
buti na lang hindi pang audio yung tube.... :D
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tony that was an EI76(1 inch). I have the 1 1/8, 1 1/4 and 1 1/2 inch upright covers. Each set comes with corresponding moulded insulators. Endbell finish is glossy black powder coat. Soon chrome plated finish will be available.
edrel, kuha ako nyan....
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paano ba yan? me nabile ako kay gery na tubes na tig 250 pesos, pero ng tinignan ko sa web......http://www.tubedepot.com/nos-6386.html
(http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-8476489043850_2155_5879510)
buti na lang hindi pang audio yung tube.... :D
Napansin ko lang pala sa mga naka-auction na bagay sa internet. Gawi noong iba na hayaan o sinasabihan ang mga kaibigan nila na mag-post ng mag-post para tumaas iyung presyo ng tinitinda nila. Nagmumukhang may demand pero sa katotohanan artificial demand lang pala. Tsk tsk tsk
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i bought a pair of LSA1 bookshelfs, the standard model because I really can't afford the Signature model. Main difference between the two models are: capacitors (Signatures have the auricaps) and natural lamb wool damping material for the Signatures. Cost difference between the models is USD 500. The Signatures also have mills resistors and high quality internal wiring. I listened to the Standard model (w/ stock caps) for roughly 100 hours and when I had the chance to buy 2 pairs of 2.2uf and 4.0uf auricaps, which are not really that expensive, I replaced the polyester caps that came in with Standard model because I want those speakers to go up the next level. I like the stock sound but change in caps will make the sound better IMO. After thorough run-in, I'm really satisfied and I can say that I will never go back to the old sound again.
Was the effort and extra expense justified? A big yes!
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i bought a pair of LSA1 bookshelfs, the standard model because I really can't afford the Signature model. Main difference between the two models are: capacitors (Signatures have the auricaps) and natural lamb wool damping material for the Signatures. Cost difference between the models is USD 500. The Signatures also have mills resistors and high quality internal wiring. I listened to the Standard model (w/ stock caps) for roughly 100 hours and when I had the chance to buy 2 pairs of 2.2uf and 4.0uf auricaps, which are not really that expensive, I replaced the polyester caps that came in with Standard model because I want those speakers to go up the next level. I like the stock sound but change in caps will make the sound better IMO. After thorough run-in, I'm really satisfied and I can say that I will never go back to the old sound again.
Was the effort and extra expense justified? A big yes!
This is the same exoerience i always have when i do the capacitor upgrade. Changing the normal white color power resistor to the likes of mills.will remove the hardness in sound especially at higher volume.
Just based on experience though, the mundorf supreme is a step better to the auricaps. Price difference between the two is not that much.
Enjoy.
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I wanted to try the auricaps. Sounds excellent to me. Detailed highs, lovely mids and huge bass. Besides, LSA uses them in their Signature models. My aikido pre-amp's output caps are mundorf silver/oils and my Cayin cd-50's output caps are mundorf supremes.
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Searched the forum and found no mention of this piece of free software I just came across which might be of interest to all the DIYs here. The software is Speaker Workshop (http://www.speakerworkshop.com). I have not had a chance to study it but from the website's front page it can use a PC's sound card to measure and display frequency performance curves. It might be interesting to compare the "hacks" you guys are discussing in this thread with this thing.
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paano ba yan? me nabile ako kay gery na tubes na tig 250 pesos, pero ng tinignan ko sa web......http://www.tubedepot.com/nos-6386.html
(http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/yhst-8476489043850_2155_5879510)
buti na lang hindi pang audio yung tube.... :D
naku ka Tony, ginto na naman ang natisod mo! si mang gerry parang the goose that laid golden eggs....he's da man! kitakits ;)
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Philbrick K2W isa sa kauna-unahang op-amp. Meron kayang ganito?
(http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d87/rascal101/k2w.jpg)
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This is the same exoerience i always have when i do the capacitor upgrade. Changing the normal white color power resistor to the likes of mills.will remove the hardness in sound especially at higher volume.
Just based on experience though, the mundorf supreme is a step better to the auricaps. Price difference between the two is not that much.
Enjoy.
I can attest to what Edwin said. His Denon amp was tube sounding kahit di pa ako lasing when I auditioned it. ;D The soundstage can be compared to a good quality tube amp. I will say Edwin knows what caps/resistor to be replaced to make an SS amp better. I think he only replaced 2 caps and some resistors. Also, his speakers though 2 way bookshelves sounds like a floorstand that can rival many high end brands I tested/heard. More so, I also experienced to replace with Mundorf Supreme my sold Wharf Crystal floorstander and some capacitors of my Yamaha CA 1000 series 2, 2 years ago. Night and day ang difference. Thanks for the invitation bro.Edwin. You have good ears. ;)
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It's true that we can limit ourselves to what we can afford. It's not practical to upgrade if the amp/speakers has a good sound already. But the problem arise when we hear high end amps or speakers, realizing that it has better components which result to better sound quality. That realization is a growth to our audio experience. We can't ignore the fact that those cap upgrades, crossover modifications can really result to audio nirvana. Because, if this upgrade or modification things were not true, Do It Yourself guys may not exist after all. For me I became a D.I.Y guy "wannabe," to satisfy myself and be able to imitate at least some good SQ of those high end audio components I heard/tested. I can't afford those high end audio gears. Thus, I would say that modification is really fun esp.if it is successful. :)
So those guys who can afford and have the guts to modify your gears, keep it up. But don't forget to seek technical assistance from the experts, if we are not experienced to do it. :)
"Learning is a never ending process." Only a fool will say he already knows everything. ;)
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Ganda pala ng sound tripping ninyo Bro.
I agree. If you can afford it and you know what to do, keep it up. It is true, learning is a never ending experience. Until now, I am still learning thanks to many people in PDVD.
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Ganda pala ng sound tripping ninyo Bro.
I agree. If you can afford it and you know what to do, keep it up. It is true, learning is a never ending experience. Until now, I am still learning thanks to many people in PDVD.
Oo bro. Later, I ended up almost drunk. Thanks to you and others who shared their learning experiences, as well. Because of people like you, my principles/ideas grew and still growing. It's a great help listening/reading to different kinds of principles and getting the good principles/ideas together, to come up with a better one. :)
P.S. Sorry Out of the topic. :)
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Oo bro. Later, I ended up almost drunk. Thanks to you and others who shared their learning experiences, as well. Because of people like you, my principles/ideas grew and still growing. It's a great help listening/reading to different kinds of principles and getting the good principles/ideas together, to come up with a better one. :)
P.S. Sorry Out of the topic. :)
Brader parang marami kang na discover dyan sa singapore ah. I miss singapore brader.
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ako pagtritripan ko yung receiver ko this week. upgrade power caps and preamp coupling caps uli :).
buti na lang bloated na yung power cap so excuse na rin 'to :).
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Brader parang marami kang na discover dyan sa singapore ah. I miss singapore brader.
lucky plaza? ;) ;D :D
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Brader parang marami kang na discover dyan sa singapore ah. I miss singapore brader.
Oo naman. ::) I also discovered maraming young female locals dito mahilig magpakita ng legs at .... Masyado na sila na impluwensiyahan ng western style. Ang hirap talaga maging lalaki tapat sa asawa. hmmp :D
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lucky plaza? ;) ;D :D
Dami pinay diyan sir. Remittance center yan di ba? :)
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Oo naman. ::) I also discovered maraming young female locals dito mahilig magpakita ng legs at .... Masyado na sila na impluwensiyahan ng western style. Ang hirap talaga maging lalaki tapat sa asawa. hmmp :D
Tandaan mo baka ma-bingo ka ;D
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Dami pinay diyan sir. Remittance center yan di ba? :)
yup maraming sellers sa may basement, nakakatakot bumile dyan......yung mga vendors halos nanghaharass na, kaya kung hindi ka in lang bibile tumingin ka na lang...
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yup maraming sellers sa may basement, nakakatakot bumile dyan......yung mga vendors halos nanghaharass na, kaya kung hindi ka in lang bibile tumingin ka na lang...
Agree. Just like in Sim Lim, dami din ganun like what you said. ;)
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naalala ko yung unang salta ko sa singapore nung 1981, nagtatanong lang ako ng sony cassete deck sa people's park, hindi na ako binitiwan nung seller hanggang hindi ko nabile yung ite,....
kaya hayun ng umuwi ako namura ko mula ulo hanggang paa yung nagpabile.....
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Unlucky Plaza, me too has purchased a keyboard over there though i have gotten a fairly good deal.. ;D
I have stayed in a nearby hotel for about a month way back 1993.
I miss Singapore! ;D ;D
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3. replace inductors to copper foils instead of copper wire,; https://www.madisound.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=22
these things will provide you with the ultimate tweaking experience....
Paralleling chokes should have similar effect of lowering dc resistance. You then compensate by increasing inductance or number of turns to achieve required inductance.
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^why do things twice? paralleling chokes is hard work......if you can do with 1 choke......
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In my lifetime, I have not seen an actual circuit or schematic with paralleled chokes.
I've seen paralleled caps, resistors, transistors, heck - even 3-terminal regulators but why not chokes?
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Paralleling identical transformers is a practice observed by some companies (not audio related) so identical chokes should not be very different.
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Paralleling identical transformers is a practice observed by some companies (not audio related) so identical chokes should not be very different.
Yes, paralleled transformer windings I have seen, but still not chokes. I take it that you have seen this done before?
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Yes. For SMPS with height limitation we are forced to do this specially when handling very large currents or loading.
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if you have identical chokes lying around connecting them in parallel would probably make sense. starting from scratch however would not be a very good idea. if you need to lower the DCR like cutting them into half you may actually choose to use a larger wire size. however using copper foils for chokes might be different because of the difference in geometry. for one winding gaps are reduced.
it would probably like a round vs. flat speaker cables here.
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Yes. Many high power SMPS use copper foils for the chokes and transformers now. Customer applications are very demanding on loading and form factors nowadays.
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I guess it's safe to say that if real estate is not an issue (but height is) then it's a genuine solution. However, for something like speaker chokes then it's probably rudimentary to just use a single, properly designed choke rather than to parallel two.
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Suggested it as there may be some (slim) condition where two small chokes is better than one large choke. True. For most speakers one properly designed choke should be better than two.
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How about upgrading the speaker drivers?
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masters saan ba nakakabili ng inductors for passive speaker crossovers? nagtanong ako sa eleshop and most stores in raon, capacitors lang meron.
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why buy when you can roll your own? ;D
look here: http://www3.telus.net/chemelec/Calculators/A-Inductance.htm
and here: http://www.colomar.com/Shavano/inductor_info.html
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How about upgrading the speaker drivers?
how about buying new speakers?
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why buy when you can roll your own? ;D
look here: http://www3.telus.net/chemelec/Calculators/A-Inductance.htm
and here: http://www.colomar.com/Shavano/inductor_info.html
i don't have a coil winder and have no experience on inductor winding and handling of a few hundred feet of magnet wire. is it alright if i hand-wind it and it turns out a bit loose? baka kasi maging "kalakal" lang yung magnet wire if i can't do it properly. :-\
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you can use pvc pipes to make coil forms......you can wind them by hand.....fyi...i handle gage 16 and higher wires by hand....you can too... ;D
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thanks for the reassurance master! pero paano nga kung medyo lawlaw pagka-wind, ok lang? with my very limited skills, yun ang major problem na ina-anticipate ko eh.
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thanks for the reassurance master! pero paano nga kung medyo lawlaw pagka-wind, ok lang? with my very limited skills, yun ang major problem na ina-anticipate ko eh.
you can use adhesives like 5 minute epoxy to keep the coils formed after winding each layer.....btw, i saw some round coil forms at deeco, i remember i used those some years back...
you can even use transformer bobbins, the coils doesn't even have to be round....
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Mga Sirs, I got a pair of Peavey PR15 loudspeakers used for PA.
http://www.peavey.com/products/proaudio/loudspeakers/pr//index.cfm/item/116440/PR%26reg%3B15.cfm#0
what are the possible modification that can be done to upgrade its sound. Luma na kasi, wala na ung dating crisp sound nya. Paki include na rin where to buy ng materials na needed. Dalhin ko sana sa mga members d2 who are expert in modification kaya lang I'm 12 hours away from Manila, so I'll to do it na lang with your help. TIA
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Anyone tried ductseal-ing your speaker drivers?
(http://www.google.com.ph/url?source=imglanding&ct=img&q=http://diyaudioprojects.com/Drivers/40-1197/ductseal.jpg&sa=X&ei=pMtcToeODJGyrAeU45W7Dw&ved=0CAUQ8wc&usg=AFQjCNF0sk9sNTbi-QcORxc2jb_0lVi1rQ)
http://diyaudioprojects.com/Drivers/40-1197/40-1197.htm (http://diyaudioprojects.com/Drivers/40-1197/40-1197.htm)
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Mga Sirs, I got a pair of Peavey PR15 loudspeakers used for PA.
http://www.peavey.com/products/proaudio/loudspeakers/pr//index.cfm/item/116440/PR%26reg%3B15.cfm#0
what are the possible modification that can be done to upgrade its sound. Luma na kasi, wala na ung dating crisp sound nya. Paki include na rin where to buy ng materials na needed. Dalhin ko sana sa mga members d2 who are expert in modification kaya lang I'm 12 hours away from Manila, so I'll to do it na lang with your help. TIA
pm mo si speaker-doctor....
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Been wanting to upgrade the sound of my garage boom box for the longest time however due to work load it took close to two years for me to finally get it done. Part of my hobbies are tinkering with my cars so this boom box gets a lot of use every week. The only let down really of this unit is how it sounds.
The box: Its a Ryobi construction grade Boom Box. Yes its one unique box. Shock proof, dust and water resistant. It has very simple controls and has a radio (AM/FM) and an aux input with USB so you can charge your phone, ipod while playing. The best function of this box is that it can be powered by a One + Ryobi battery. If powered via mains it charges the battery. Run time of the 4.0Ah battery is around 3 hours at full blast.
(http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m236/tuned_2006/Uploads%202012/20160918_082314_zpsztbkfa46.jpg)
The problem: As previously mentioned it is the sound. Its is veiled (ngo ngo in local terms). Even when you play a a quality recording the highs are simply not there. Make no mistake though...I don't have audiophile caliber aspirations for this unit. I just want to improve it so that it sounds as good as it looks depending of course on one's subjectivity.
The solution: I looked around on the net for the specs of the box and found out that it uses 4 inch drivers that are generic. Good thing there was a step by step disassembly procedure on the net by one dude who upgraded the drivers of his unit as well. Same complaint...lack of mid and highs. So off I went looking for 4 inch drivers with a mounted tweeter. Luckily for me I happen to pass by HMR one day and picked up a pair of 4 inch coaxial speakers for Php250.00. It brand new with grilles, wirig etc. The brand is something that I havent heard of however the construction is way above the stock unit that the boom box uses so I though Php250.00 is a worthwhile gamble to uplift its performance.
(http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m236/tuned_2006/Uploads%202012/20160918_082320_zpsgia479yz.jpg)
here are pics of the disassembly:
(http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m236/tuned_2006/Uploads%202012/20160918_083654_zpslfzqczlz.jpg)
Here is the generic driver:
(http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m236/tuned_2006/Uploads%202012/20160918_083659_zpskof4cwpb.jpg)
now side by side with the new tenant:
(http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m236/tuned_2006/Uploads%202012/20160918_085208_zps6itfbios.jpg)
(http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m236/tuned_2006/Uploads%202012/20160918_085151_zpshlqfdqwc.jpg)
replaced:
(http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m236/tuned_2006/Uploads%202012/20160918_092259_zpskz9fccha.jpg)
When I was looking at the innards of the unit I was thinking to myself why not upgrade the speaker wires to better ones plus apply sound deadening to improve the bass however common sense came into play and I dont want to exert all that effort to chase a result that this unit might never achieve so its just the driver upgrade.
finished:
(http://i105.photobucket.com/albums/m236/tuned_2006/Uploads%202012/20160918_082940_zpsfyqxa5ym.jpg)
The outcome was quite surprising. The mids and highs improved and so is the bass. All in all it worth the Php250.00 and two hours of my time. Its will not provide me with the full monty of an audiophile caliber system but it does keep me entertained when im working on my cars during my spare time.
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Galing! I like the One+ line, hindi lang cordless tools.
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Im a One+ fan as well. To date I have the ff: jobsite radio, tire inflator, leaf blower, buffer, vacuum, chemical sprayer and a couple of 4Ah batteries.
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Mga brader anung ma suggest nyo na magandang pang upgrade sa mga caps ng cross over ng floor stander ko?
here is the pics Pure acoustics supernova 8.
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2e30s4o.jpg)
(http://i68.tinypic.com/esqbm8.jpg)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/30m477c.jpg)
and saan makakabili ng mga parts maraming salamat.
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And saan pwde makabili ng pyesa for upgrade
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And saan pwde makabili ng pyesa for upgrade
A-audio baka meron chief. ;)
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the last time i ask him hinde na sya nag bebenta... yung mga caps meron kaya sa raon or deeco?
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the last time i ask him hinde na sya nag bebenta... yung mga caps meron kaya sa raon or deeco?
ay ganun di na sya nagbebenta.
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yup parang ganun na sir
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sayang naman sya lang alam ko nagbebenta capacitor dito.
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Sa deeco ba meron sir or raon?
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Sir, baka gusto nyo itry ang Mundorf EVO series, aluminum in oil, maganda tumunog at di masyadong mahal. meron sa Audio Amplified. warning: changing the caps doesnt guarantee better sound.
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warning: changing the caps doesnt guarantee better sound.
+1
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How much it will cost sir
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Bago ka magpalit ng capacitor o anong bagay dyan sa crossover, ano muna iyung gusto mong matuldukan o ano sa tingin mo kulang ng speakers mo? Halimbawa masibilant siya kaya gusto mo bawasan ang sibilance, kulang sa detalye, may pagka boomy, hind sume sentro iyung kumakanta, masyado forward ...
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Medyo boomy and kulang sa detais
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Hindi ako pamilyar un sa speaker na gamit mo pero kailangan malaman kung may hiwalay na crossover papunta sa tweeter, mid freq at low freq driver. Tapos nito kailangan kunan isa isa iyung papunta sa tweeter, mid freq tapos sa low freq driver. Base dun sa crossover puwede tayo gumawa ng plano kung ano ang gagawin.
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cge sir will double check kung may isa pang cross over papunta dun sa tweeter
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Medyo boomy and kulang sa detais
Things you can do without spending...
Try moving the speakers away from the walls. Corner placement enhances" the bass but if the speakers has enough bass, the added bass makes for a "boomy" sound. Point the speakers towards the listener. Reduce the diameter of the port, try putting a sock (yung bagong laba ha :) )
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Things you can do without spending...
Try moving the speakers away from the walls. Corner placement enhances" the bass but if the speakers has enough bass, the added bass makes for a "boomy" sound. Point the speakers towards the listener. Reduce the diameter of the port, try putting a sock (yung bagong laba ha :) )
magbabago ba ang tunog sir pg hinde pa nalalabhan ang mejas? haha joke i will try this weekend sir
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Yes, the speaker placement is also a factor in the performance of the speaker.
But there are also other aspects as follows:
Are the upstream components (amps/preamps, source, music material) verified to be capable of delivering accurate bass and detailed sound so as to conclude that the speaker is the weak link?
Is the amp capable of properly driving the speaker?
Have you tried listening with the speaker with other amplifier and source? And have they produced the same results?
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Mas "mabajo" pag di nalabanan :)
magbabago ba ang tunog sir pg hinde pa nalalabhan ang mejas? haha joke i will try this weekend sir
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Hindi ako pamilyar un sa speaker na gamit mo pero kailangan malaman kung may hiwalay na crossover papunta sa tweeter, mid freq at low freq driver. Tapos nito kailangan kunan isa isa iyung papunta sa tweeter, mid freq tapos sa low freq driver. Base dun sa crossover puwede tayo gumawa ng plano kung ano ang gagawin.
Malaking ikakagagalak ko kung maisalin mo ang mga ibang salita sa tagalog. Hehe!
Tweeter = pang-kilansing?
low freq driver = mababang tsuper?
crossover = ekis patawid?
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magbabago ba ang tunog sir pg hinde pa nalalabhan ang mejas? haha joke i will try this weekend sir
May significant improvement din when auditioned with wine. Hehe!
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Mga brader anung ma suggest nyo na magandang pang upgrade sa mga caps ng cross over ng floor stander ko?
here is the pics Pure acoustics supernova 8.
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2e30s4o.jpg)
(http://i68.tinypic.com/esqbm8.jpg)
(http://i66.tinypic.com/30m477c.jpg)
and saan makakabili ng mga parts maraming salamat.
Pero okay lang din ba ang structure or yung components na nakakabit sa crossover ko?
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Malaking ikakagagalak ko kung maisalin mo ang mga ibang salita sa tagalog. Hehe!
Tweeter = pang-kilansing?
low freq driver = mababang tsuper?
crossover = ekis patawid?
Dahil malimit ang pagsalin sa mga teknikal na salita, diretsong ingles na lang ginagawa ko :) Walang pagpipilian. Tsaka isa pa bihira o hindi pangakraniwan nagtuturo gamit wika natin sa larangan ng inhinyerya (engineering).
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Dahil malimit ang pagsalin sa mga teknikal na salita, diretsong ingles na lang ginagawa ko :) Walang pagpipilian. Tsaka isa pa bihira o hindi pangakraniwan nagtuturo gamit wika natin sa larangan ng inhinyerya (engineering).
ang lalim na nito hahaha
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Nakita ko na isa lang tlaga ang crossover ng floorstander ko.
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Paki tiris pala ang mga wire sa loob ng speaker mo gaya ng lubid.
Tapos palitan mo iyung electrolytic capacitor - ito iyung may nakasulat na POLAR 100V 5.6uF ng polypropelene capacitor o polyester capacitor. Mas maayos iyung mga polypropelene o polyester capacitor kumpara sa electrolytic capacitor. Mas malaki nga lang ng di hamak.
Bili ka ng dalawang piraso kapalit ng electrolytic capacitor na ito.
Makakabili ka ng polypropelene capacitor sa may Eleshop. Hanapin mo na lang dito sa PDVD iyung pook o "address" ng Eleshop. Hanap ka ng 100V/5.6uF o mas mataas na boltahe.
Kung may malapit naman na tindahan ng electronics, bili ka ng polyester capacitor na 100V/5.6uF. Puwede rin iyung mas mataas na boltahe gaya ng 150V/5.6uF o 250V/5.6uF.
Ngayon kung walang silang 5.6uF, puwede kang mag-parallel ng 100V/1uF at 100V/4.7uF o iyung mas mataas na boltaheng capacitor.
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Kung napalitan mo na iyung mga electrolytic capacitor, itakbo mo iyung speaker mo ng isang linggo ng walang patayan kahit mahina lang iyung tunog o "volume".
Base sa tunog pagkatapos ng isang linggo puwede ulit gumawa ng bagong plano para mapunuan ang ano pa mang pagkukulang ng tunog.
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ilong dugo...
Paki tiris pala ang mga wire sa loob ng speaker mo gaya ng lubid.
Tapos palitan mo iyung electrolytic capacitor - ito iyung may nakasulat na POLAR 100V 5.6uF ng polypropelene capacitor o polyester capacitor. Mas maayos iyung mga polypropelene o polyester capacitor kumpara sa electrolytic capacitor. Mas malaki nga lang ng di hamak.
Bili ka ng dalawang piraso kapalit ng electrolytic capacitor na ito.
Makakabili ka ng polypropelene capacitor sa may Eleshop. Hanapin mo na lang dito sa PDVD iyung pook o "address" ng Eleshop. Hanap ka ng 100V/5.6uF o mas mataas na boltahe.
Kung may malapit naman na tindahan ng electronics, bili ka ng polyester capacitor na 100V/5.6uF. Puwede rin iyung mas mataas na boltahe gaya ng 150V/5.6uF o 250V/5.6uF.
Ngayon kung walang silang 5.6uF, puwede kang mag-parallel ng 100V/1uF at 100V/4.7uF o iyung mas mataas na boltaheng capacitor.
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ilong dugo...
Dumudugo ang ilong ko ...
Simple lang ito kasi tiris lang noong speaker wires tapos palit noong electrolytic capacitor. Mas kumplikado pa nga iyung mga ibang "mod". Kahit anong speaker puwede mo itong gawin. Kahit mga mumurahing speaker puwede mong patunugin ng "high end" basta't tama lang gagamitin capacitor - kumbinasyon ng iba't ibang polypropelene at silver mica o oil cap - medyo mas marami nga lang na trabaho at medyo mas mahabang panahon na pag gugol.
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Dumudugo ang ilong ko ...
Simple lang ito kasi tiris lang noong speaker wires tapos palit noong electrolytic capacitor. Mas kumplikado pa nga iyung mga ibang "mod". Kahit anong speaker puwede mo itong gawin. Kahit mga mumurahing speaker puwede mong patunugin ng "high end" basta't tama lang gagamitin capacitor - kumbinasyon ng iba't ibang polypropelene at silver mica o oil cap - medyo mas marami nga lang na trabaho at medyo mas mahabang panahon na pag gugol.
Slamat sir checheck ko value nito mga iti
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Slamat sir checheck ko value nito mga iti
Liliwanagin ko lang, iyung 100V/5.6uF ay mismong capacitor na nakasalpak sa crossover mo na pinakita mo sa litrato. Ito iyung kulay asul na may nakasulat ng POLAR 100V 5.6uF, Kailangan mapalitan ito gaya ng sinabi ko.
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Sa deeco ba chief meron?
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Sa deeco ba chief meron?
Meron po.