Post by: Handyman on May 29, 2004 at 11:22 AM
Post by: rmpmla on May 29, 2004 at 07:38 PM
here's my DIY 15" powered sub using a bridge +parallell gainclone amp
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0SADpAkwVIgdfz5kYscXczu9gV61DmPMQItGJoscVegSPevJLLr52ip5Xgh6KDIo6wYnJjYLsUZ9O4yUnhxps7Ol*SlNRsSfjICbSWdcZkw0zAAAAynJlAg/front%20view.JPG?dc=4675468986817162139)
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0RQDhAsYUl93yqniQfWqLMexOTcfHPdegaAvcr9xprsbnI*iCle6aet2CsxGMDaovCECvRDQ3LSB7q2GEL*IOXK0OR1yp5bMBhT6!MxUOMIk/partsview.JPG?dc=4675468986949564845)
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0QgARA2sT*4I5f2m1GuOVdnlStPTdxdtPReIT5UGW1Di!ziO5R1yRZrfVK1wAGNUUnZwzLf!95tfvt0JN7!Xg83cR4KA18Z83!1AasSUnRZ8/opasub.JPG?dc=4675472973323549709)
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0RwDpAlMVAAc5f2m1GuOVdtwjHm6rzuzmUCoHNi3yTnZDk1sZj3mBZwwPxAYei6JHr4uSzk*144u0p0epR6n9xQf9mwyg8I*HgNxyxOh!7Fk/opasubnbox1.JPG?dc=4675472973508753471)
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0SwDpAjoX541grBIbJgBL*yk3G5fsmHWG2LPcqd*mULUoHBxNOqtG1ImYMVzcBem1fLdThjGv5AI1Y!YZKcn1bLobqoXYTowUOxthDb*pOE8oA5UuBFFtmQ/heatsinkwblower.JPG?dc=4675473395190222185)
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0RwDzAlUVdgc5f2m1GuOVdiZ1nhx503zJBN6sGR*uX3iCSlL112wTczjXhORbYV1bpTINJMCsZ4brECIn8uQIES2!olFqVtOyumA63dh5fLs/opasubnbox3.JPG?dc=4675472973689460243)
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0RgCJAjkVmfxv5k8PjcN3c*Q0L*II8St*QFk9JgLjKx7evcfdNN6YLC2DRM!H4*p38InQfI47Gm0SPvLVl9nzGV89OGTui6dWDWnpBneG6pY/subonsetup.JPG?dc=4675473395452294727)
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0VwARA7kaMLTduZ*kz7gpm81iFC*sOC4kdXtJl7djAqfHpScdxKsLcts3ExEJ*TkdXkbgSqpqYyEvFPC44yA!qPcYPW*uud56kybsuGbiqEj2HDI95q2YmezT5ta1558z/finished%20opa%20poweredsub.JPG?dc=4675473656490019520)
isang pares itong 15" sub, kaya meron pang susunod na post ;D ;D
Post by: homer on May 30, 2004 at 11:01 AM
(http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-12/535321/DiySpeakers1sml.jpg)
Post by: rmpmla on Jun 17, 2004 at 01:05 PM
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0QAAjY1QSBj8yBX*muD42U72RSq42k7ULL5ryRJlpQxCaMGGrw57j!b6GWTt38PDPJzqLpjjNZLVVXqh7HUTakYmpdQ82V8auTwBQAEwARQA/sub1.JPG?dc=4675476785238307742)
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0QwCJArQT25cxLV2c3xjo!UawCiBLWxkO!izvItknkQpXAqgM22xJh8KiA82aIcf87sPSk013A!EaiXl0sx7z9yul4ZdVyvCELrlrPoRr!Lo/subback.JPG?dc=4675476785706029681)
Post by: av_phile1 on Jun 17, 2004 at 01:55 PM
Post by: jerix on Jun 17, 2004 at 03:39 PM
Post by: s2kov on Jun 17, 2004 at 03:43 PM
my second DIY sub ;D
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0QAAjY1QSBj8yBX*muD42U72RSq42k7ULL5ryRJlpQxCaMGGrw57j!b6GWTt38PDPJzqLpjjNZLVVXqh7HUTakYmpdQ82V8auTwBQAEwARQA/sub1.JPG?dc=4675476785238307742)
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0QwCJArQT25cxLV2c3xjo!UawCiBLWxkO!izvItknkQpXAqgM22xJh8KiA82aIcf87sPSk013A!EaiXl0sx7z9yul4ZdVyvCELrlrPoRr!Lo/subback.JPG?dc=4675476785706029681)
Post by: rmpmla on Jun 17, 2004 at 06:17 PM
Nice DIY sub. Much better and more able electronic internals than what's i've seen in some commercial subs. What's the power rating?
thanks av phile :).
the low pass filter used was based on rod elliott's EAS subwoofer. ito ginamit ko kasi ito ang pinakasimpleng (less parts) low pass filter circuit.
the amp uses 4 - OPA 549 chip amp. datasheet only indicates max output current of 10 amperes for an OPA549. i've seen somewhere in the net that OPA 549 can deliver 70 watts rms for 8 ohm load. so, that would have a total output of 280 watts.
Post by: rmpmla on Jun 17, 2004 at 06:24 PM
rmpmla, thats a very impressive project--- how much bro did it cost you for that amp? thnkx ;D
thanks jerix :)
bro estimate ko sa amp, around 2k. mura kasi libre yung OPA549 ;D ;D
Post by: rmpmla on Jun 17, 2004 at 06:42 PM
Dalawa na!!!! Galing!!!! ;) ;) ;)
s2kov salamat. ;D
puro kopya lang yan ;D ;D
yung enclosure ginaya ko dun sa 12" MK powered sub ko. binuksan ko loob para malaman ko kung paano install yung electronics at bracing nung loob.
- used a connector between the amp and the power supply/speaker
- install a cross-brace inside the enclosure (para wag mag-resonate yung cabinet).
yung low pass filter - http://sound.westhost.com/project48.htm
ito ginamit ko kasi simple lang ;D
hanapin ko yung link para sa amp section.
Post by: JojoD818 on Jun 17, 2004 at 06:53 PM
nice projects bro!
my self-made MTM speakers
(http://img23.photobucket.com/albums/v70/jojod818/Dump/MTM_Floor_Standing.jpg)
Post by: JojoD818 on Jun 17, 2004 at 06:55 PM
(http://img23.photobucket.com/albums/v70/jojod818/Dump/Sub_Ported.jpg)
Post by: JojoD818 on Jun 17, 2004 at 06:57 PM
(http://img23.photobucket.com/albums/v70/jojod818/Dump/Sub_Bandpass.jpg)
Post by: rmpmla on Jun 17, 2004 at 07:15 PM
nice subs you got there, too. ALL the works :)
mine is just fixed frequency and low signal input. di ko na kaya yung ibang features ;D
Post by: rmpmla on Jun 17, 2004 at 08:47 PM
sent you a PM :)
Post by: JojoD818 on Jun 17, 2004 at 09:51 PM
jojo thanks :)
nice subs you got there, too. ALL the works :)
mine is just fixed frequency and low signal input. di ko na kaya yung ibang features ;D
Di ko kasi kayang bumili ng buo na sub kaya diy na lang, customized pa lahat. Next upgrade ko dyan sa mga sub na yan eh auto power on/off para naman di na ako pindot ng pindot ng power switch. ;D
Post by: rmpmla on Jun 18, 2004 at 06:46 AM
Di ko kasi kayang bumili ng buo na sub kaya diy na lang, customized pa lahat. Next upgrade ko dyan sa mga sub na yan eh auto power on/off para naman di na ako pindot ng pindot ng power switch. ;D
magandang feature yan for a powered sub :) . please post naman details once you have done this upgrade
Post by: rmpmla on Jun 18, 2004 at 06:48 AM
s2kov salamat. ;D
puro kopya lang yan ;D ;D
yung enclosure ginaya ko dun sa 12" MK powered sub ko. binuksan ko loob para malaman ko kung paano install yung electronics at bracing nung loob.
- used a connector between the amp and the power supply/speaker
- install a t- brace inside the enclosure (para wag mag-resonate yung cabinet.
yung low pass filter - http://sound.westhost.com/project48.htm
ito ginamit ko kasi simple lang ;D
hanapin ko yung link para sa amp section.
for the amp section - http://www.freewebs.com/matttcatttweb/audio.htm :)
Post by: JojoD818 on Jun 18, 2004 at 11:24 AM
magandang feature yan for a powered sub :) . please post naman details once you have done this upgrade
most of the hi-end subs daw ay meron nito, naisip ko naman maganda meron nito kasi matipid sa koryente pag hindi ginagamit. ;)
Post by: av_phile1 on Jun 18, 2004 at 12:50 PM
most of the hi-end subs daw ay meron nito, naisip ko naman maganda meron nito kasi matipid sa koryente pag hindi ginagamit. ;)
Even the DTX and USAudio subs have this auto shut-off feature after a few minutes without any signal.
For DIYers, I would suggest you incorporate a notch filter variable from 20Hz to 200hz. This would obviate the need for a parametric equalizer that can tame resonant bass peaking and standing waves in any room. You have at least one frequency peak you can tame. No room not meant to be an auditorium is immune to bass peaking and cancellation. Not even the most expensive subs can overcome peaking, unless it has a built-in EQ or notch filter.
Post by: cousin skeeter on Jun 18, 2004 at 01:43 PM
magandang feature yan for a powered sub :) . please post naman details once you have done this upgrade
bro, i noticed you had two trafos in your sub. whats the smaller one for? is it for the bridge? i used only one trafo and used regulator ICs to supply the bridge.
Post by: rmpmla on Jun 18, 2004 at 10:10 PM
Even the DTX and USAudio subs have this auto shut-off feature after a few minutes without any signal.
Ah okay :) hindi na kasi ako nag aa-audition ng sub mapa lo end o hi end man.
kaya di ko alam na common feature na pala ito sa powered sub. i am currently using two branded subs both have no auto-shut off. luma model na kasi ;D
Post by: rmpmla on Jun 18, 2004 at 10:27 PM
bro, i noticed you had two trafos in your sub. whats the smaller one for? is it for the bridge? i used only one trafo and used regulator ICs to supply the bridge.
i used it to power the low pass filter and the line driver for the bridge+parallel amplifier.
mas ok yung ginawa mo using only one transformer supplying the GC amp and the line driver via regulator ICs.
hindi ako familiar sa regulator ICs kaya bumili na lang ako ng maliit na transformer :)
bro, PM naman shematic nung supply mo para dun sa bridge :). if not too complicated, will change my power supply to single transformer.
thanks :)
Post by: JojoD818 on Jun 19, 2004 at 10:34 AM
i used it to power the low pass filter and the line driver for the bridge+parallel amplifier.
mas ok yung ginawa mo using only one transformer supplying the GC amp and the line driver via regulator ICs.
hindi ako familiar sa regulator ICs kaya bumili na lang ako ng maliit na transformer :)
bro, PM naman shematic nung supply mo para dun sa bridge :). if not too complicated, will change my power supply to single transformer.
thanks :)
You can use 3-terminal fixed regulators for that application. Look for National's LM78XX series positive voltage regulator and LM79XX series negative voltage regulator for reference.
Or even a resistor, a 100uf cap, and a zener will do! ;D As long as you only power opamps though. ;)
Post by: rmpmla on Jun 19, 2004 at 04:53 PM
You can use 3-terminal fixed regulators for that application. Look for National's LM78XX series positive voltage regulator and LM79XX series negative voltage regulator for reference.
Or even a resistor, a 100uf cap, and a zener will do! ;D As long as you only power opamps though. ;)
Jojo, thanks :)
check ko sa NS at TI website yang 3-terminal fixed regulators
Post by: JojoD818 on Jun 19, 2004 at 11:23 PM
Jojo, thanks :)
check ko sa NS at TI website yang 3-terminal fixed regulators
Your welcome bro, good luck.
Any other speaker diyers here?
Post by: cousin skeeter on Jun 21, 2004 at 11:33 AM
You can use 3-terminal fixed regulators for that application. Look for National's LM78XX series positive voltage regulator and LM79XX series negative voltage regulator for reference.
Or even a resistor, a 100uf cap, and a zener will do! ;D As long as you only power opamps though. ;)
yah, those are what i used. be careful with the pin assigments. the 78xx and the 79xx pins for input, ground and output are not the same. i toasted my 1st 7915 because i assumed it had the same pin assignment as the 7815. Charge to experience na lang, hehehe.
Post by: JojoD818 on Jun 21, 2004 at 12:06 PM
yah, those are what i used. be careful with the pin assigments. the 78xx and the 79xx pins for input, ground and output are not the same. i toasted my 1st 7915 because i assumed it had the same pin assignment as the 7815. Charge to experience na lang, hehehe.
Huh? Dapat talaga we read the datasheet! Hahaha, Ayus cousin skeeter, charge one 7915 to experience, at least mura lang. ;D
Post by: jerix on Jun 22, 2004 at 10:24 AM
can u please give me a tip on what kind and what is the value of the capacitor i should use to my speaker, to have better vocals ? thnks
Post by: JojoD818 on Jun 22, 2004 at 06:15 PM
hey bros kakainggit talaga kayo -- konting lecture nga -please - ;D
can u please give me a tip on what kind and what is the value of the capacitor i should use to my speaker, to have better vocals ? thnks
tip is for waiters, vallet parking, etc. my friend. ;D What you need is to learn how a passive crossover circuit works and then you can apply that to your existing speaker system. Also the make of the capacitor has an adverse effect on the sound so be careful when you choose.
Post by: jerix on Jun 23, 2004 at 02:35 PM
Post by: JojoD818 on Jun 23, 2004 at 10:51 PM
hehe!- mahabang pag-aaral pa pala ang kelangan ko-- :-\ anyway bro jojo thnks for the advise - ;D
Hindi naman mahirap yun, bka lang kasi masira yun speakers mo kung wala ka clear idea on what's going on. Better safe than sorry diba?
O ayan, my tip ka na! Fisshhh tayo sir!
Post by: jerix on Jun 24, 2004 at 08:06 AM
Post by: john5479 on Jun 24, 2004 at 08:20 AM
when i opened the speaker kasi, i just saw capacitors connected to the speakers.. what i have in mind is that, if i change the capacitors the sound may also change-- so im planning to experiment thats why m askin some basic considerations, like what will a capacitor with higher or lower value brings about? maybe something like those things-- :)
it will change the crossover settings and will cause the tweeters/woofers of your speaker to play freq. that may be higher or lower than what they can do before distortion. If you have a schematic of the crossover and know the freq. ranges of your tweeters and drivers, then it is easier to tweak it and make changes to the capacitor / inductor :)
Post by: JojoD818 on Jun 24, 2004 at 10:57 AM
Post by: av_phile1 on Jun 24, 2004 at 11:34 AM
http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=3
Scroll down the page to get to the linked calculators
Post by: edboy7 on Jun 24, 2004 at 01:30 PM
gainclone amp...my good friend S2kov told me to order some chips from TI coz its free
has variable fliter sana maybe from 40z-120hz..mahirap ba ito? can someone pls help me with the circui for this?
ill be also using 2 8" speakers....talikuran sila....front firing
and for the box and 10 by 10 lang sana like a power cube...tnx
Post by: JojoD818 on Jun 24, 2004 at 05:37 PM
hello guys, i hav ample electronics know how but i wud to make also a diy powered sub :) ...the inexpensive route ika nga and most of all it would a learning experince for me ;)...anyway this would be my specs..
gainclone amp...my good friend S2kov told me to order some chips from TI coz its free
has variable fliter sana maybe from 40z-120hz..mahirap ba ito? can someone pls help me with the circui for this?
ill be also using 2 8" speakers....talikuran sila....front firing
and for the box and 10 by 10 lang sana like a power cube...tnx
If you can post a simple drawing of your box so that we can get a better idea on what you mean then probably we can work it out. As for the gainclone amp, that section I'm sure a lot of guys can help you.
Post by: edboy7 on Jun 25, 2004 at 03:17 PM
Post by: JojoD818 on Jul 05, 2004 at 11:11 PM
Here's a picture of my latest HT setup, except the sub is laying down now instead of up on it's side.
http://www.alegriaaudio.com/LatestHTview.htm
I like the cat ;D. A WOW! setup indeed.
Post by: timn8ter on Jul 09, 2004 at 07:47 AM
http://www.timn8er.com/vented_tempest.htm
I also helped organize a DIY Meet this year.
http://www.timn8er.com/pictures_from_nwwa_diy_audio_mee.htm
Post by: jerix on Jul 09, 2004 at 08:34 AM
ung mga pinagsawaan mong speakers jan, padala mo na lang sa akin hehehe! -- ;D well, post some more very inspriring photos - :D
Post by: timn8ter on Jul 09, 2004 at 10:37 AM
I love all my speakers and enjoy swapping them around. It keeps the music fresh! I think I will keep them for a while longer. ;)
Post by: timn8ter on Jul 09, 2004 at 11:13 AM
http://www.timn8er.com/Stereo.htm
Post by: JojoD818 on Jul 13, 2004 at 02:04 PM
(http://img23.photobucket.com/albums/v70/jojod818/Dump/Notch1.jpg)
Post by: timn8ter on Jul 13, 2004 at 08:57 PM
Post by: JojoD818 on Jul 13, 2004 at 09:09 PM
Wow! Very clean! Where did you get the plactic boxes with standoffs?
Hi TIm,
Those are sold locally... I had to snip some of those stand-offs though. ;D
(http://img23.photobucket.com/albums/v70/jojod818/Dump/Notch2.jpg)
Post by: iceman90a on Jul 13, 2004 at 09:18 PM
Post by: john5479 on Jul 13, 2004 at 09:20 PM
what are those for? pardon my ignorance
notch filters, these are used to smooth out some frequency bumps but may reduce the sensitivity of the speakers. btw jojod where did u buy them (plastic boxes) ? might use them as well for my speaker project >:D
Post by: JojoD818 on Jul 13, 2004 at 09:37 PM
what are those for? pardon my ignorance
john has answered that. the sensitivity of the unwanted peaks are the ones affected.
this gizmo should prevent excessive ringing of single driver speaker systems due to the peaks in the driver response curve. ;)
Post by: Handyman on Jul 15, 2004 at 02:13 PM
Galing mo sir...Pwede ba magpaturo.. :)
Post by: JojoD818 on Jul 15, 2004 at 04:14 PM
Sir JojoD818,
Galing mo sir...Pwede ba magpaturo.. :)
Sorry sir may bayad pag tutorial eh. ;D ;D ;D Basta ba alam ko yun sagot eh bakit hindi, pag hindi ko alam sagot sasabihin ko naman eh. ;D
Peace!
Post by: vircor on Jul 31, 2004 at 02:16 PM
Request naman mga bro, sana mag-feature naman ang mga DIY gurus natin dyan ng DIY speaker projects or kahit isa lang muna preferably floorstanding 3-way type. Paki-include na rin yung mga drivers' specs/size and the baffle dimension para naman matesting gawin.
Thanks in advance for the generosity! :) ;)
Post by: timn8ter on Jul 31, 2004 at 09:33 PM
http://www.timn8er.com/alegria_audio_bptl.htm
Post by: Gino on Aug 01, 2004 at 10:04 AM
Please email me at [email protected]
Post by: JojoD818 on Aug 01, 2004 at 10:48 AM
Pwede ba pagawa ng passive for my sub? 40hz lowpass, 12db slope. Or lower mg 48hz, with 24db slope. I am pumping just 100w into my speaker. OK sakin yung clear case na yan.
Please email me at [email protected]
Sir pwede yan pero di na air core yun choke, meron na iron core to increase inductance, while having the lowest insertion loss as possible.
Post by: tuff_u_gong on Aug 03, 2004 at 06:51 AM
here in manila? am interested in a two-way driver configuration (8-inch paper cone driver + no-ferro fluid tweeter). are these crossovers easy to modify/tweak with better parts (e.g. capacitors)?
how about efficient (high impedance) bass drivers and tweeters? what are the best locally available brands? any danish brands (vifa, seas, lpg) available?
thanks!
Post by: av_phile1 on Aug 03, 2004 at 04:40 PM
Post by: tuff_u_gong on Aug 03, 2004 at 06:37 PM
Almost all the electronic shops I've seen sell crossover networks and drivers. I think You can find more of them at those shops along Raon St like in Deeco. I recall seeing some at the Audiophile store at Mega a few years back.
will check them out. thanks!
Post by: JojoD818 on Aug 04, 2004 at 09:19 PM
Pwede ba pagawa ng passive for my sub? 40hz lowpass, 12db slope. Or lower mg 48hz, with 24db slope. I am pumping just 100w into my speaker. OK sakin yung clear case na yan.
Please email me at [email protected]
Sir, all parts accounted for. ;) Only tedious part is winding the coil and designing the pcb. Other than that, it's a walk in the park. :)
Post by: JojoD818 on Aug 05, 2004 at 02:14 PM
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v70/jojod818/Dump/Gino01.jpg)
Post by: JojoD818 on Aug 05, 2004 at 02:15 PM
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v70/jojod818/Dump/Gino02.jpg)
Post by: JojoD818 on Aug 05, 2004 at 02:16 PM
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v70/jojod818/Dump/Gino03.jpg)
Post by: Gino on Aug 05, 2004 at 04:05 PM
Expect it to join my car : www.sounddomain.com/id/ginopunsalan
Post by: JojoD818 on Aug 05, 2004 at 04:16 PM
;D
Post by: JojoD818 on Aug 05, 2004 at 06:03 PM
I did. ;D
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v70/jojod818/Dump/Gino04.jpg)
Post by: Rivalz on Aug 05, 2004 at 06:45 PM
Post by: Gino on Aug 05, 2004 at 08:18 PM
Post by: JojoD818 on Aug 05, 2004 at 09:59 PM
Post by: vircor on Aug 07, 2004 at 01:39 PM
Post by: vircor on Aug 07, 2004 at 01:41 PM
It seems our DIY gurus are reluctant to share their expertise and provide a diy speaker project as I've requested in my previous post. ;D
Anyway, thanks guys!
Post by: alabonjo on Aug 07, 2004 at 10:42 PM
(other than "ACE hardware")
Post by: JojoD818 on Aug 08, 2004 at 02:35 PM
Hello!
It seems our DIY gurus are reluctant to share their expertise and provide a diy speaker project as I've requested in my previous post. ;D
Anyway, thanks guys!
Hi!
It's not that DIYers (including me) here don't want to share info but building a speaker project is a bit complicated (tampo ka naman agad eh ;D). Choices of drivers, box configs, and even materials differes from one constructor to another.
I myself only use local drivers (dai-ichi, crown, etc) and make the most out of them. But if you have access to better sounding drivers then that's better. Tell what you have and maybe I can help you. ;)
JojoD ;D
Post by: fierari on Aug 09, 2004 at 10:18 AM
Did I say I'd finish it today?
I did. ;D
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v70/jojod818/Dump/Gino04.jpg)
hanep talaga itong idol ko ;D
Post by: jerix on Aug 09, 2004 at 01:51 PM
Ive seen speaker boxes of different sizes on sale in DEECO... but m just wondering because these are plain boxes-- should i try a DIY speaker, should I still need to put some FOAM or damping materials inside these boxes ?
Post by: timn8ter on Aug 09, 2004 at 02:22 PM
Post by: getafix on Aug 09, 2004 at 02:48 PM
Post by: av_phile1 on Aug 09, 2004 at 03:13 PM
http://philsaudio.com/speaker.htm
Post by: JojoD818 on Aug 09, 2004 at 03:38 PM
Post by: JojoD818 on Aug 09, 2004 at 03:40 PM
hanep talaga itong idol ko ;D
Kaw talaga sir ;D ;D
Post by: john5479 on Aug 09, 2004 at 03:54 PM
Post by: jerix on Aug 10, 2004 at 03:00 PM
It's not a good idea to start with the box and try to find drivers to match. You should always start with the driver first then design the box (and crossover if necessary) to accomodate the driver.
all seem to agree with tim and thnks for the comments -- so does it mean that i have to ask first from the store the appropriate set of drivers and tweeters for a particular box that i want there?
what ihave in mind kasi is to buy a box, a set of 50 w 6" mid bass and a tweeter that would fit on my desired box and a crossover and ill just be the one to solder the connections== ;D
more advise please--- :) and thnks again
Post by: john5479 on Aug 10, 2004 at 03:51 PM
all seem to agree with tim and thnks for the comments -- so does it mean that i have to ask first from the store the appropriate set of drivers and tweeters for a particular box that i want there?
what ihave in mind kasi is to buy a box, a set of 50 w 6" mid bass and a tweeter that would fit on my desired box and a crossover and ill just be the one to solder the connections== ;D
more advise please--- :) and thnks again
The problem with that is you wouldn't know how the drivers will respond for the said enclosure. Its really not easy as getting an enclosure and get drivers that fit it..it might work but it might not. I am just speaking from personal experience so your mileage may vary :)
Post by: JojoD818 on Aug 10, 2004 at 04:12 PM
all seem to agree with tim and thnks for the comments -- so does it mean that i have to ask first from the store the appropriate set of drivers and tweeters for a particular box that i want there?
what ihave in mind kasi is to buy a box, a set of 50 w 6" mid bass and a tweeter that would fit on my desired box and a crossover and ill just be the one to solder the connections== ;D
more advise please--- :) and thnks again
Your lucky if the sales person knows the recommended drivers for the box. ;)
Post by: JojoD818 on Aug 10, 2004 at 04:14 PM
Even if you do find the correct drivers for a particular box, how sure are you that the available crossovers have the correct crossover points for the drivers? Answer is no. So it would be a painful trial and error for you if you go this route. ;)
Post by: timn8ter on Aug 10, 2004 at 04:21 PM
Post by: jerix on Aug 10, 2004 at 04:43 PM
for an uninitiated but very curious and adventurous individual like me, i really could go this painful direction and face the possible consequences of the dangerous trial and error -- I wish the experts here can supply this thread more accounts of their speaker project-- ;D
Post by: nerveblocker on Aug 10, 2004 at 05:34 PM
Cheers!
Post by: timn8ter on Aug 10, 2004 at 06:25 PM
"A friend was visiting my wife and asked about the speakers I build. She answered, "Yes, Ed has spent thousands of dollars to build cheap speakers."
Post by: JojoD818 on Aug 10, 2004 at 06:54 PM
A fellow I know shared this with me.
"A friend was visiting my wife and asked about the speakers I build. She answered, "Yes, Ed has spent thousands of dollars to build cheap speakers."
;D ;D ;D
Post by: vircor on Aug 13, 2004 at 05:19 PM
Hi!
It's not that DIYers (including me) here don't want to share info but building a speaker project is a bit complicated (tampo ka naman agad eh ;D). Choices of drivers, box configs, and even materials differes from one constructor to another.
I myself only use local drivers (dai-ichi, crown, etc) and make the most out of them. But if you have access to better sounding drivers then that's better. Tell what you have and maybe I can help you. ;)
JojoD ;D
Ahahahaha! Mga sir, I'm not making tampo-tampo ;D The reason why I did not insisted na is because naisip ko na maybe it's a trade secret. I know naman that you're all willing to share your expertise, I don't wanted lang to be makulit. :) Pero baka nga meron kayong mai-share na simple project na nagawa na ninyo.
Anyway, as I've said I wanted to build a 3-way floorstander. I've build loudspeakers before (by trial & error) during the college years paired it with the diy amp projects, I'm also an electronics graduate kasi before taking the path of computer & education. Kaya lang yung mga projects ko na-arbor na ng relatives and ang lalayo na nila, sigh... I miss those days.. I've lost all my copies of Electronics Enthusiasts and other lectures/notes coz of moving to a different place. Ok, enough of the reminiscin... my idea is to build a floorstander using 2- 8" woofers or 1- 10" woofer side mounted, 2-5" mids and a 1" dome tweeter the brands of which is Dai-ichi & other locally available speakers, crossovers and other parts I'll buy na lang. I will use either a 3/4" or 1" thick particle board, I have the necessary power tools and a little carpentry skills (I hope) yun nga lang medyo gasgas na ko sa electronics. Madali lang sana but here are my concerns and hope you can help me with these:
1.) Do you guys use a method or formula in getting the internal volume of the baffle?
2.) Do you employ the aid of a certain software/program in loudspeaker design and where can I get one?
3.) How do you choose the wattage and size of each driver?
4.) How do you get the right length and size of the port in tuning the loudspeaker to a desired frequency?
5.) How can we know the efficiency of the loudspeaker we build?
6.) Does applying some paint to personalize the driver affect its performance?
7.) What store usually has the more selection of grill cloth, vinyl finishes, and other stuff?
Here are some of the sites I've visited regarding DIY Loudspeakers:
Design of Loudspeakers (http://www.linkwitzlab.com/design_of_loudspeakers.htm)
Loudspeakers Principles & Theory (http://www.audioholics.com/techtips/audioprinciples/Loudspeakers.html)
DIY Speaker Project (http://www.audioholics.com/techtips/setup/loudspeakers/DIYspeakers.php)
Thanks very much to all DIY Gurus!
Sir JojoD you have PM. :)
Post by: vircor on Aug 13, 2004 at 05:24 PM
- patience
- guts
- budget
- patience
- open mind
- an eye for details
- patience
- multi-tester (a must), oscilloscope, spl meter, etc.
- grounding strap or anti-static gloves (Statics can ruin your project, your day and your wallet)
- pliers, long-nose, tweezer, cutter, crimping tool, etc.
- soldering iron/gun, lead, dissoldering pump, pcb, ferric chloride, mini-drill, masking tape, etc.
- patience
- drills, jigsaw, files, sandpaper, etc. for metal and wood working needs
- diff. wires & connectors, parts, components, etc.
- others that i forgot to mention
- did i already say lots of patience? ;D
You may experience the following but they can definitely be avoided/minimized:
- Makuryente
- Mapaso
- Masugatan
- Malipasan ng gutom
- Masabugan/maputukan
- Maibato yung di mapaganang project
- Manlumo, manlambot, ma-frustrate
- Ano pa ba mga sir?
- Makuryente
- And worst, mabaliw sa di mapaganang project
But don't be afraid, one can always ask our diy masters for enlitghtenment. MABABAIT MGA YAN :)
Post by: av_phile1 on Aug 13, 2004 at 05:35 PM
A fellow I know shared this with me.
"A friend was visiting my wife and asked about the speakers I build. She answered, "Yes, Ed has spent thousands of dollars to build cheap speakers."
;D Now that's a nice one. I think it applies to building amps as well. I had that experience in the past building a mediocre amp kit, with all the transistors I blew before finally getting it right. ;D
Post by: D0Hbert on Aug 13, 2004 at 07:33 PM
Post by: JojoD818 on Aug 13, 2004 at 11:57 PM
Sir Vircor, I suggest you buy a book entitled designing and testing your loudspeakers by david weeds. Cant recall the exact title of the book, locally available din yung copy. I don't have it right now but most of your questions are answered there. They have charts where you can base the optimum internal volume for your speakers, the appropriate capacitor values for your high pass x-over, and a lot more. May mga projects pa on speaker building, may 3-way din. Interesting read. Kahit na yung question mo about port meron din duon, pag medyo mahina bumayo, habaan ang port, pag sobrang boomy, iksiaan yung port or lakihan ang internal volume ng woofer, etc. Hope this helps.
Sir, meron ako nyan!!! Hahaha Gandang book yan. ;D
Post by: tuff_u_gong on Aug 14, 2004 at 09:22 AM
DIY projects are time consuming and can be frustrating but at the same time can be very rewarding. For those who would like to follow the path taken by our diy masters, aside from some electronics know how here are what you might check first before plunging in:
- patience
- guts
- budget
- patience
- open mind
- an eye for details
- patience
- multi-tester (a must), oscilloscope, spl meter, etc.
- grounding strap or anti-static gloves (Statics can ruin your project, your day and your wallet)
- pliers, long-nose, tweezer, cutter, crimping tool, etc.
- soldering iron/gun, lead, dissoldering pump, pcb, ferric chloride, mini-drill, masking tape, etc.
- patience
- drills, jigsaw, files, sandpaper, etc. for metal and wood working needs
- diff. wires & connectors, parts, components, etc.
- others that i forgot to mention
- did i already say lots of patience? ;D
You may experience the following but they can definitely be avoided/minimized:
- Makuryente
- Mapaso
- Masugatan
- Malipasan ng gutom
- Masabugan/maputukan
- Maibato yung di mapaganang project
- Manlumo, manlambot, ma-frustrate
- Ano pa ba mga sir?
- Makuryente
- And worst, mabaliw sa di mapaganang project
But don't be afraid, one can always ask our diy masters for enlitghtenment. MABABAIT MGA YAN :)
sir vircor,
among these tools, which do you need for
1)crossover designing and tweaking and
2)driver matching?
thanks!
Sir Vircor, I suggest you buy a book entitled designing and testing your loudspeakers by david weeds.
sir DOHbert,
saang bookstore meron nito sir? thanks!
Post by: JojoD818 on Aug 16, 2004 at 10:06 AM
Post by: D0Hbert on Aug 16, 2004 at 11:23 AM
Post by: av_phile1 on Aug 16, 2004 at 02:33 PM
Post by: vircor on Aug 16, 2004 at 04:35 PM
sir vircor,
among these tools, which do you need for
1)crossover designing and tweaking and
2)driver matching?
thanks!
Sir, if you're serious about crossovers/filters and speakers, you may want to have a winder/rewinder and different gauges of magnetic wires coz you'll be using them a lot. An oscilloscope would be ideal specially if you're dealing with frequencies and different wave outputs.
If you can, you may want to resort first to what is called 'reversed engineering'. Observe first the particular project you want to build like a crossover. Kung meron kang loudspeaker system sa bahay at kung pwede baklasin ok din. Disassemble it then study the circuit of the filter/crossover. That's a good start to begin with.
You can find very valuable info here:
http://sound.westhost.com/articles.htm
Hope to be of little help. ;)
Post by: vircor on Aug 16, 2004 at 05:01 PM
Sir Vircor, I suggest you buy a book entitled designing and testing your loudspeakers by david weeds. Cant recall the exact title of the book, locally available din yung copy. I don't have it right now but most of your questions are answered there. They have charts where you can base the optimum internal volume for your speakers, the appropriate capacitor values for your high pass x-over, and a lot more. May mga projects pa on speaker building, may 3-way din. Interesting read. Kahit na yung question mo about port meron din duon, pag medyo mahina bumayo, habaan ang port, pag sobrang boomy, iksiaan yung port or lakihan ang internal volume ng woofer, etc. Hope this helps.
Ah... eh... ok, I'll buy a book. What book nga ba? & author? :D
Post by: tuff_u_gong on Aug 17, 2004 at 07:01 AM
Sir, if you're serious about crossovers/filters and speakers, you may want to have a winder/rewinder and different gauges of magnetic wires coz you'll be using them a lot. An oscilloscope would be ideal specially if you're dealing with frequencies and different wave outputs.
If you can, you may want to resort first to what is called 'reversed engineering'. Observe first the particular project you want to build like a crossover. Kung meron kang loudspeaker system sa bahay at kung pwede baklasin ok din. Disassemble it then study the circuit of the filter/crossover. That's a good start to begin with.
You can find very valuable info here:
http://sound.westhost.com/articles.htm
Hope to be of little help. ;)
thanks! i guess you're right about reverse engineering. an oscilloscope and winder might be too much of an investment for a DIY newbie.
i plan to build a 2-way speaker with an 8'' bass driver with a dome tweeter. i posted a question in another forum and here is the reply i got:
The basic principles of an 8" / 1" combination with a very simple
crossover are fairly straightforward and tuning can be done by ear.
The bass unit needs a rising midrange response, and its inductor
value is misaligned to effect baffle step compensation, it then
compensates for the rising mid response, and the actual c/o
frequency is determined by the bass/ mid units roll-off.
In juggling the EQ of the bass unit baffle width is a major factor.
Usually a box of 45L to 50L tuned to 33Hz to 37Hz works well.
Sensitivity depends on the amount of baffle step compensation
built into the design, which also sets optimum placement.
i found this too technical. can you make anything of it?
have you had any experience building a speaker with such specs?
thanks!
Post by: tuff_u_gong on Aug 18, 2004 at 08:11 AM
i want to 'reverse engineer'.
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0TgAAAPAWIpIWWh67LMSgHRG1eOzx5xzgX6hTuqyHw4bEaXtt9djwR58dn3tPKNeEKy2p8DQYebb**8BetgwPDNjlZdNoQUaxTM1ZgPP4*tuPx29ysx6hIA/SpeakerFilter.002.JPG?dc=4675485278528411004)
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0SgAMA9AWtHOTCIFqrY!xZJLvFgR9CBdhE22lyreQSEDK3yZMJvHSzITSTQlF*g1!rYIRLb8hu0FDHynSa7rd9LmL9BUtrooIDlnR1*2dNxjw!SR4njE1Ug/speakerfilter.jpg?dc=4675485278541932197)
do you think i can get local parts to clone this?
thanks!
Post by: getafix on Aug 18, 2004 at 08:42 AM
Post by: tuff_u_gong on Aug 18, 2004 at 10:07 AM
Yes I'm sure you can... assuming you be able to get the correct value for each component. It probably would take some tinkering, but I'm sure you can get local parts.
thanks! do you know which electronics store carry similar 2-way crossovers? i went to one of DEECO's branches (along Marcos Highway in Marikina) and all i saw were dividing networks. i was thinking i could get a standard two-way crossover to start with so i don't have to build from scratch.
thanks!
Post by: john5479 on Aug 18, 2004 at 10:27 AM
Post by: vircor on Aug 18, 2004 at 04:20 PM
thanks! i guess you're right about reverse engineering. an oscilloscope and winder might be too much of an investment for a DIY newbie.
i plan to build a 2-way speaker with an 8'' bass driver with a dome tweeter.
Sir, am just saying that an oscilloscope is ideal specially in dealing with frequencies, voltage and wave outputs but is heavy on the pocket; an alternative would be a digital multimeter with frequency measurement. A
winder will be important in making your own filter/crossover, speaker, transformers, etc. and i think it's not
much expensive. Since occassional lang naman siguro ang paggawa mo ng projects, you can always let the
guys at Raon wind things up for you according to your specs or order it made by our diy masters.
Regarding your project plan, I think using an 8" driver for the mid-bass is not recommended coz there will be a
gap in the mid frequency range, which for me is very critical. In a 2-way system it is not recommended to
have a woofer larger than 7", anything larger will not faithfully reproduce the midrange frequencies with
realism, clarity and detail since a large driver (8" or greater) is designed primarily to produce bass frequencies
below 200Hz (frequency range is 20-500 Hz) and is too slow to resonate frequencies with authority in the
midrange band of 200Hz-4kHz (can you see the gap already?). I just don't know if it's okay with you the gap
I'm saying but of course you can continue with your project plan.
Just FYI:
Baffle step compensation is an increase in output from a loudspeaker as the size of the baffle becomes
significant in terms of the wavelength of sound for a range of frequencies. At low frequencies, where the
baffle (the panel the loudspeaker is mounted on) is small compared to the wavelength, the speaker is assumed
to be operating with a spherical radiation pattern. As frequency increases, the size of the baffle becomes
significant, and the spherical radiation pattern no longer applies. This is also partly to do with the loudspeaker
drivers themselves - as frequency increases, typical cone drivers become more and more directional - this
occurs as the dimensions of the cone become significant with respect to wavelength.
There's a lot of work involved in baffle step compsensation and equalisation, and unless you're very interested
and it's much of a concern, I suggest you leave it for the moment. The person replying to your query is
assuming that you understand a lot on loudspeakers and electronic stuff. Parang nagtanong ka lang kung
paano mag-mix ng dough pero gustong pag-aralan mo na yung buong baking process. ;D
Tama si sir john, mas madali kung may schematics nung crossover. Parang ganito:
(http://sound.westhost.com/lrp-f51.gif)
6dB/Octave 2-Way Passive Crossover
Post by: tuff_u_gong on Aug 18, 2004 at 05:34 PM
with your help i feel that there's a lesser chance i'd get frustrated with this project. :)
Sir, am just saying that an oscilloscope is ideal specially in dealing with frequencies, voltage and wave outputs but is heavy on the pocket; an alternative would be a digital multimeter with frequency measurement. A
winder will be important in making your own filter/crossover, speaker, transformers, etc. and i think it's not
much expensive. Since occassional lang naman siguro ang paggawa mo ng projects, you can always let the
guys at Raon wind things up for you according to your specs or order it made by our diy masters.
thanks again for that tip. you're really helping me save time and money here. can you refer anyone from raon who does this well? how about from cubao or somewhere nearer the marikina, QC (cubao) area?
Regarding your project plan, I think using an 8" driver for the mid-bass is not recommended coz there will be a
gap in the mid frequency range, which for me is very critical. In a 2-way system it is not recommended to
have a woofer larger than 7", anything larger will not faithfully reproduce the midrange frequencies with
realism, clarity and detail since a large driver (8" or greater) is designed primarily to produce bass frequencies
below 200Hz (frequency range is 20-500 Hz) and is too slow to resonate frequencies with authority in the
midrange band of 200Hz-4kHz (can you see the gap already?). I just don't know if it's okay with you the gap
I'm saying but of course you can continue with your project plan.
that was also the impression i got based on my own experience with speakers with 8'' and 6'' drivers.. .until i heard a SET tube amp hooked up to this 2-way speaker which had a 22cm bass driver and a very ugly enclosure. :) i was dumbfounded by those speakers' mids ;D
Just FYI:
Baffle step compensation is an increase in output from a loudspeaker as the size of the baffle becomes
significant in terms of the wavelength of sound for a range of frequencies. At low frequencies, where the
baffle (the panel the loudspeaker is mounted on) is small compared to the wavelength, the speaker is assumed
to be operating with a spherical radiation pattern. As frequency increases, the size of the baffle becomes
significant, and the spherical radiation pattern no longer applies. This is also partly to do with the loudspeaker
drivers themselves - as frequency increases, typical cone drivers become more and more directional - this
occurs as the dimensions of the cone become significant with respect to wavelength.
There's a lot of work involved in baffle step compsensation and equalisation, and unless you're very interested
and it's much of a concern, I suggest you leave it for the moment. The person replying to your query is
assuming that you understand a lot on loudspeakers and electronic stuff. Parang nagtanong ka lang kung
paano mag-mix ng dough pero gustong pag-aralan mo na yung buong baking process. ;D
you're right, i don't think i'll dare venture into that technical stuff just yet.
Tama si sir john, mas madali kung may schematics nung crossover. Parang ganito:(http://sound.westhost.com/lrp-f51.gif)6dB/Octave 2-Way Passive Crossover
OK. here's a schematic that was recommended to me at diyaudio.com. it's not
exactly the same as the crossover i showed in the pic but it was the schematic
recommended by the guy who talked about the baffle step compensation.
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0QgDhApMTLpGJS!0oDFBMg8ncyKQzu!kjlUPYxtS9kcZY*dengZxFZ1Tpz0DMUD6lnqytcPt!IqfFsk8jOdecqGdLfzEc!evUi7AIzuT!aQk/xover.jpg?dc=4675485330847835088)
Post by: john5479 on Aug 18, 2004 at 08:40 PM
Post by: JojoD818 on Aug 18, 2004 at 10:34 PM
Vircor, musta na design mo? Alam mo na pala mag design nyan sir. Kelan ba namin makikita at madidinig yan?
Post by: vircor on Aug 19, 2004 at 01:32 PM
Siguro in ten years! Ahahahaha! ;D >:D
Last time kasi ako gumawa ten years pa yun! :P
Post by: vircor on Aug 19, 2004 at 01:46 PM
Sensya na I can't help you regarding a contact in raon, ala kasi ako kilala. Try sir jojo. Kung gusto mo na masimulan project mo pwede naman, you can TEMPORARILY make do with the dividing networks from DEECO if you may.
:) :) :)
Post by: jcob on Aug 19, 2004 at 02:47 PM
Hope this site helps.
http://www.carstereo.com/help2/Articles.cfm?Car_Audio=Car%20Audio%20Crossover%20Design
this site is all about loud speaker design....
Post by: vircor on Aug 19, 2004 at 04:46 PM
(http://sound.westhost.com/tee-nut.gif)
Tee Nut
Dry-fit mo muna yung drivers and connectors before applying finishes. Sabi ko nga, you can use those dividing networks from deeco or alexan (teka, tanong ka alexan baka merong crossover kit doon, branches nila sa Divisoria area, SM North EDSA, SM Mega meron ata.) as TEMPORARY kasi madali namang palitan yun kahit finish na project mo, dismount mo lang yung drivers tapos kabit uli. ;D
Teka, bakit nga ba ako napadpad dito ??? I'm not an expert loudspeaker builder, dapat yung mga diy masters ang magbigay ng inputs jan! ::) ;D ::) ;D
Post by: s2kov on Aug 19, 2004 at 07:33 PM
You can use 'tee nuts' instead of mounting the drivers directly to the baffle para secured yung driver, drill a hole and hammer it in (you can add some glue).(http://sound.westhost.com/tee-nut.gif)Tee Nut
Post by: Gino on Aug 19, 2004 at 08:25 PM
Post by: JojoD818 on Aug 19, 2004 at 09:37 PM
On a technical note, woofers and subs installation benefit a lot using Tee nuts rather than just using machine/wood screws. The price is less than P5 per set (bolt & Tee nut).
Post by: s2kov on Aug 19, 2004 at 09:45 PM
Post by: JojoD818 on Aug 19, 2004 at 09:49 PM
So, tee nut is basically to protect the wood in case there is a frequent opening of enclosure through the speakers?
Besides that, you use the threads of the tee nut so the wood (and woofer/sub basket) is just "sandwiched" by the tee nut and the bolt. ;D
Post by: s2kov on Aug 19, 2004 at 10:02 PM
Besides that, you use the threads of the tee nut so the wood (and woofer/sub basket) is just "sandwiched" by the tee nut and the bolt. ;D
Post by: john5479 on Aug 19, 2004 at 10:41 PM
Post by: Handyman on Aug 23, 2004 at 01:14 PM
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0QgAAAMUTk5Smd!C0r7LVifa6xU!TgvjTbcUDplGRlJVDIM2SEpuxNRoCE8drsFkQ38vUroFM3XZO1oN11l!LmRBSyaoxrYxYfE9TCNAtn*8/eboni1.jpg?dc=4675485816876674040)
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0QgD3AsYTzpRk4BfH*zdi2JD3kC1xHMSshzrZCjKcZYpi3J4OJDAjPT!Nqq7TZkLMR5kFm*xN4oJw6YOjKBBLk3WfOcP5pU0LdQdlJ16lS38/eboni2.jpg?dc=4675485817481580415)
Post by: john5479 on Aug 23, 2004 at 01:20 PM
Post by: Handyman on Aug 23, 2004 at 02:41 PM
Handyman: ok sir..anong finish balak mo gawin dyan? ;D
sir john,
round edges, apply woodstain except on the pine veneer and finish them with polyurethane.
Post by: Gino on Aug 23, 2004 at 03:16 PM
Post by: JojoD818 on Aug 23, 2004 at 03:37 PM
Ganun bah!!!! :o :o :o Bakit kaya nde ganito ginawa nila sa monitor audio?
Malamang nga nagtitipid pero hindi naman ganun kamahal yun eh? ???
Post by: Handyman on Aug 23, 2004 at 04:21 PM
Anong wood ginamit mo? Where can I get some?
Hardwood plywood and pinewood.. any lumber store..just ask for it...medyo madalang lang...yung pinewood sa home depot. :)
Post by: john5479 on Aug 23, 2004 at 04:23 PM
Post by: Handyman on Aug 23, 2004 at 04:26 PM
Post by: Gino on Aug 23, 2004 at 09:54 PM
Post by: Handyman on Aug 24, 2004 at 09:36 AM
Pwede ba pagawa sayo ng box ng Focal 5" sub ko? Liit lang yun around 9.5" cube with a 1" x 3" port.
Pwede Sir Gino... :)
Post by: Toquero on Aug 25, 2004 at 09:23 AM
Anong wood ginamit mo? Where can I get some?
Hi guys,
Does anyone in the forum knows where I can locally purchase mdf boards here in Manila?... I'm having hard time finding one for my diy subwofer project. Mas madali kasing i cut yung mdf against plyboards Thanx :-\
Post by: Handyman on Aug 25, 2004 at 10:23 AM
Hi guys,
Does anyone in the forum knows where I can locally purchase mdf boards here in Manila?... I'm having hard time finding one for my diy subwofer project. Mas madali kasing i cut yung mdf against plyboards Thanx :-\
Toquero,
Sa Binondo, Kung nasa C.M. Recto from Rizal Ave..... mag left ka sa T. Alonzo St...then right turn sa first st...Soler St. ata yon....may mga lumber store sa right side pag nasa Soler St. ka na...di ko matandaan yung panngalan ng tindahan..di ka aabot sa tulay. :)
Post by: vircor on Aug 25, 2004 at 03:50 PM
Winder and some coil form ideas:
(http://home.new.rr.com/trumpetb/audio/winder.jpg)
- Simple hand cranked coil winder with mechanical turn counter and adjustable feed tension.
(http://home.new.rr.com/trumpetb/audio/spools.jpg)
- Some fabricated coil form ideas. (Masonite, wood dowels, spools)
- Remove any ferrous bolts from core hole before use.
- Just count the turns; it's not necessary for the coil layers to lay perfectly.
- Dipping the finished choke in varnish is a nice touch.
Post by: Vhongbiker on Aug 26, 2004 at 06:43 AM
;)
Post by: Handyman on Aug 26, 2004 at 09:22 AM
sir kaya kayang palitan box ng dq12 ko?
;)
Kaya yan sir...
Post by: Gino on Aug 26, 2004 at 09:24 AM
Post by: Vhongbiker on Aug 27, 2004 at 06:03 AM
might as well sell your DQ12 and build a sub from scratch with specs and quality you want.
sir ok na sa akin ito, mapapagastos na naman ako, hehehe....... i just want to change the color and the look para match sa other speaker ko.
sir how much kaya? para mapagipunan ko na...... ;)
salamat.......... :D :D :D
Post by: Handyman on Sep 06, 2004 at 11:27 PM
Post by: Handyman on Sep 06, 2004 at 11:30 PM
Thanks Tim :)
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0QwDxAv0SOmnuHD31D96BZ1XHoo2Cg9MwlN3Z8OlqkIlu9jsS1hlZiNxMmhaxNJnX0UohYj289Nl1Rc3kbc7*bse1P9bsfn6c5Yo8Jd!2Bdg/167e_01.jpg?dc=4675487971418257705 )
Post by: timn8ter on Sep 06, 2004 at 11:41 PM
Post by: Toquero on Sep 06, 2004 at 11:45 PM
Toquero,
Sa Binondo, Kung nasa C.M. Recto from Rizal Ave..... mag left ka sa T. Alonzo St...then right turn sa first st...Soler St. ata yon....may mga lumber store sa right side pag nasa Soler St. ka na...di ko matandaan yung panngalan ng tindahan..di ka aabot sa tulay. :)
thanx alot I think I can manage to roam aroand that area.
Post by: Vhongbiker on Sep 07, 2004 at 06:10 AM
thanks ;)
Post by: Vhongbiker on Sep 07, 2004 at 06:13 AM
Finally, here's my finished eBONi...
Thanks Tim :)
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0QwDxAv0SOmnuHD31D96BZ1XHoo2Cg9MwlN3Z8OlqkIlu9jsS1hlZiNxMmhaxNJnX0UohYj289Nl1Rc3kbc7*bse1P9bsfn6c5Yo8Jd!2Bdg/167e_01.jpg?dc=4675487971418257705 )
sir ok ganda, sir re my dq12, wla pang budget eh, pm nalang kita pag ok na.
thanks ;)
Post by: Handyman on Sep 28, 2004 at 01:36 PM
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0RADxAlkUK7tFj!eDJmWnTA3bm*qJKqOAmvZFW0a3UnIZsFyrLxZXSeHIC7CjMb0ThK19lhtUidtVblVuTNTjYYOX!l7HcuxXK1z4xhbxRAA/Boink_02.jpg?dc=4675490924693902475)
Post by: timn8ter on Sep 28, 2004 at 09:54 PM
Post by: Handyman on Sep 29, 2004 at 08:36 AM
Cool 8) Are those the B20s? What's the rest of the number...52..something...something...? Anyway, where did the design come from? Can you share the details?
Hi Tim,
Yes, they are the Pioneer B20FU20-51FW.
With permission from Mr Derek Walton, the designer of "The Joke"
Here's the link for details: http://indigo.ie/~walton/voigt.html
I used laminated pinewood for the enclosures.
Thank you. :)
Post by: john5479 on Sep 29, 2004 at 08:45 AM
Post by: Handyman on Sep 29, 2004 at 09:13 AM
congrats on your new project handyman, looks like a good match with a 2a3 amp >:D
Thanks sir john5479, :)
i will try it with s2kov's new 2A3 later.
Post by: Handyman on Oct 28, 2004 at 10:25 AM
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0RgDuAiAUHMFTP!*9u5xzF2mxOP9Inowa0JC5vA37qM11uAXqJ9OiriUbDHmeQTwEcz9OW5QQpnQUl3ANue6Fsv6v54iKsHg4aHWQUsZORO4/207e_1.jpg?dc=4675495044389775832)
Post by: edboy7 on Oct 29, 2004 at 10:55 PM
a good link for DIYers :) i could also do them.....in my dreams ::)
http://www.mhennessy.f9.co.uk/index.htm
Post by: Handyman on Nov 09, 2004 at 11:05 AM
Post by: jcob on Nov 09, 2004 at 11:24 AM
That's a really nice DIY speakers. I've seen it in the audio fair. Can you pm me how much would it cost me for a bookshelf design for a fostex 167e and for a TL design of for the 207. Can you also make a similar design as the omega speakers, yung parang fostex 167E ang driver na naka display doon sa fair. If possible pati sana yung front cover ganun din.
Thanks.
Post by: jerix on Nov 09, 2004 at 11:28 AM
Post by: Audioboy on Nov 09, 2004 at 11:30 AM
excellent woodmanship pre. ;D
nice meeting you at the fair.
Post by: Handyman on Nov 09, 2004 at 02:02 PM
Hey bro Handyman, just curious about the lamination--- ::) me process ba pag laminate ng mga boxes mo? thnks
Sir Jerix, you can buy the lumber as is.. called laminated pinewood, they are actually factory joined pieces of pinewood. if you are referring to finish..i use polyurethane for the finish using either brush or cloth.
Post by: Handyman on Nov 09, 2004 at 02:03 PM
handyman,
excellent woodmanship pre. ;D
nice meeting you at the fair.
Thanks Audioboy..nice meeting you too. :)
Post by: jerix on Nov 09, 2004 at 04:02 PM
Sir Jerix, you can buy the lumber as is.. called laminated pinewood, they are actually factory joined pieces of pinewood. if you are referring to finish..i use polyurethane for the finish using either brush or cloth.
AAAhhh! i see ;D 'kala ko bro ikaw nag-laminate-- ;D where do u sually buy that bro and how much per board? thnks again ;)
Post by: Handyman on Nov 10, 2004 at 06:25 AM
Home Depot bro :)
Post by: kid on Nov 10, 2004 at 09:09 AM
nice meeting you sir bon aka handyman :)
Post by: Handyman on Nov 10, 2004 at 09:25 AM
nice meeting you too. :)
Post by: relay_70 on Nov 23, 2004 at 08:26 PM
tanong ko lang po kung effective ang cork as damping material sa subwoofer? if not ano po masusuggest nyo na da best material for damping... thanks..
Post by: timn8ter on Nov 23, 2004 at 09:19 PM
BTW, all the drivers to make the speakers in Bon's pictures are available in PI at
http://www.alegriaaudio.com
Post by: relay_70 on Nov 23, 2004 at 10:11 PM
Post by: Handyman on Nov 24, 2004 at 09:37 AM
If you have questions about DIY speaker stuff. Please don't hesitate to ask Mr. Tim Forman. He'd be happy to answer all our questions...Right Tim? :)
Post by: timn8ter on Nov 24, 2004 at 12:41 PM
Post by: jerix on Dec 07, 2004 at 03:03 PM
I got a non-ported surplus speaker and being non-ported, it is alil bit hard to drive--- so,, i am thinkin of drilling a hole in its back panel -- maybe 2" wide to allow flow of air... what do u think guys, will this work? thnks ;D
Post by: av_phile1 on Dec 07, 2004 at 03:33 PM
Post by: jerix on Dec 07, 2004 at 03:41 PM
Not adviseable from my view.. Drivers meant for air suspension type baffles may not perform as well or better in a ported enclosures. The driver compliance is often matched to the baffle volume and resonance traits so that putting a port will not necessarily enhance the efficiency or the LF extension. There is also such a thing as tuning the port using different tube lengths and port sizes that are derived from some equations in speaker designs ordinarily using computer aided design software. Let this not dampen your tweaking efforts, just don't expect dramatic improvements, if at all. Anyway, you can always cover up the hole if it doesn't work. ;D Just my thoughts.
hahaha! thats right!
Post by: Jagner on Dec 07, 2004 at 06:57 PM
Mr. Tim -- or anybody ;D
I got a non-ported surplus speaker and being non-ported, it is alil bit hard to drive--- so,, i am thinkin of drilling a hole in its back panel -- maybe 2" wide to allow flow of air... what do u think guys, will this work? thnks ;D
Nope, the speaker baffles you got were designed that way - let it stay that way. If its hard to drive then it is assumed that the sensitivity of the speakers you got are low - you will need an amp with more juice to drive your speakers.
Cheers.
Post by: timn8ter on Dec 07, 2004 at 09:36 PM
Post by: jerix on Dec 08, 2004 at 07:21 AM
Post by: timn8ter on Dec 11, 2004 at 11:56 PM
(http://www.timn8er.com/FQ-207.jpg)
Post by: Superman on Dec 12, 2004 at 04:17 PM
Post by: timn8ter on Dec 12, 2004 at 09:53 PM
Post by: JojoD818 on Dec 12, 2004 at 10:48 PM
Could you please PM/Email me the whereabouts of Alegria Audio.
Thanks!
Post by: timn8ter on Dec 12, 2004 at 11:14 PM
Bon, Tim,
Could you please PM/Email me the whereabouts of Alegria Audio.
Thanks!
You've got mail!
Post by: JojoD818 on Dec 13, 2004 at 10:53 AM
I'm still waiting for your email, please send it to [email protected]
Regards,
JojoD
Post by: JojoD818 on Dec 13, 2004 at 06:35 PM
Got the info, thanks!
JojoD
Post by: wanderlust on Dec 14, 2004 at 12:50 PM
mukhang my masama kang balak ah, share mo namn sakin.... ibulong mo lng pra d nila madinig >:D
Post by: Control on Dec 14, 2004 at 12:54 PM
sir,
mukhang my masama kang balak ah, share mo namn sakin.... ibulong mo lng pra d nila madinig >:D
Hmmm....... anong balak yan? Malamang speaker...nasa Speakers thread kasi eh... hmmm ::)
Post by: Handyman on Dec 14, 2004 at 01:49 PM
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0RQAEA1MVb*TWSPC1Jfb!RbZ9o9l6W5FDVyDXcA6Mv8m*Oj32dQNjvHuUlgbqXRsPjAKvQT6E*DAmHijkNFtWHMImB0j5vBnCvKGlWsY6JE4/1_tempest.jpg?dc=4675501522415886223)
Post by: Audioboy on Dec 14, 2004 at 02:15 PM
musta ml tl?
Post by: Handyman on Dec 14, 2004 at 02:24 PM
handyman,
musta ml tl?
On hold pa Sir, out of stock pa lumber.
Post by: Audioboy on Dec 14, 2004 at 02:25 PM
Post by: timn8ter on Dec 14, 2004 at 10:01 PM
Quote
Subwoofer Project - Tempest Low Q EnclosureThat looks very familiar. ;D The LowQ Sealed Adire Tempest Subwoofer is an excellent choice. 8)
Post by: JojoD818 on Dec 14, 2004 at 10:06 PM
sir,
mukhang my masama kang balak ah, share mo namn sakin.... ibulong mo lng pra d nila madinig >:D
Hmmm....... anong balak yan? Malamang speaker...nasa Speakers thread kasi eh... hmmm ::)
kayo talaga, hayaan nyo at isasama ko kayo! ;D
Post by: JojoD818 on Dec 14, 2004 at 10:08 PM
Mabangis na sub project na naman yan ah! MDF ba yun? o yun isang ginagamit mo na wood. Cuts palang malinis na bro, I salute you! ;)
Post by: Handyman on Dec 15, 2004 at 08:34 AM
Thanks :)
3/4" marine ply ang ginamit ko...tapos babalutan ko sya ng 3/4" pinewood for finishing.
Mabangis talagang sub to, 15" ang woofer, 250 watts ang amp, cabinet halos kasing taas ng wharfs 8.4 ko.
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0RQCdAlQVsvRJRj814J3m8wg3utDlDarVtEO0*Y2UjhbQ!Y1feg1l!fZwV94w!gpJmH6HBtx0PaF2*!!Kp9UWn3DRYRcP0Y7Z6JGR!NR4!3s/2_tempest.jpg?dc=4675501522625189524)
Post by: JojoD818 on Dec 15, 2004 at 10:11 AM
Walang kawala yun mga side panels sa bracing mo bro. ;)
Keep us posted! ;D
Post by: Control on Dec 15, 2004 at 10:26 AM
Jo,
Thanks :)
3/4" marine ply ang ginamit ko...tapos babalutan ko sya ng 3/4" pinewood for finishing.
Mabangis talagang sub to, 15" ang woofer, 250 watts ang amp, cabinet halos kasing taas ng wharfs 8.4 ko.
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0RQCdAlQVsvRJRj814J3m8wg3utDlDarVtEO0*Y2UjhbQ!Y1feg1l!fZwV94w!gpJmH6HBtx0PaF2*!!Kp9UWn3DRYRcP0Y7Z6JGR!NR4!3s/2_tempest.jpg?dc=4675501522625189524)
:o Sir Bon... you've got one heck of a masterpiece there (ang lufet!). Another fine work from the master craftsman... :)
Post by: Handyman on Dec 15, 2004 at 10:44 AM
Wow, it's taking shape na ah! Mas malaki pala sya sa Titan II, at ang laki din ng driver!
Walang kawala yun mga side panels sa bracing mo bro. ;)
Keep us posted! ;D
Jo,
here's the link for the cabinet design...actually natest ko na sya kagabi, kahit kulang pa ang stuffing at temporary pa ang top panel.
http://www.acoustic-visions.com/~acoustic/products/subwoofer_drivers/adire_15_tempest/sealedtempest.pdf
Post by: JojoD818 on Dec 15, 2004 at 11:27 AM
Jo,
here's the link for the cabinet design...actually natest ko na sya kagabi, kahit kulang pa ang stuffing at temporary pa ang top panel.
http://www.acoustic-visions.com/~acoustic/products/subwoofer_drivers/adire_15_tempest/sealedtempest.pdf
Bon,
mataas talaga ang respect ng mga diyers dyan sa tempest, regarded as one of the best sub drivers in the diy community yan. ok din yun plate amp mo ah, parang ganyan yun ginawa ko para kay Toquero.
for sure mas ok yan pag kumpleto na yun stuffings sa loob nun box. pero sa bangis ng bracing mo, i doubt it kung may madidinig ka pa na resonance sa box nyan. mukhang nga galit sa mga kapitbahay ang may ari nyan! ;D ;D ;D ;D
Post by: av_phile1 on Dec 15, 2004 at 12:26 PM
Post by: JojoD818 on Dec 15, 2004 at 12:34 PM
Most of the better commercials subs out there use 700-1000 watts RMS amps. Maybe such amps can really optimize the tempest design. But for its 12" woofer and baffle size, baka overkill na yung high wattage amps.
Wow! Can you give me a price range of these "batter commercial subs" that are out there?
Could these probably be Class B or D amps? Pero kakagigil naman yun 1000W, as long as RMS and not PMPO. ;D
Post by: kid on Dec 15, 2004 at 12:48 PM
Galeng naman ng sub na yan! Siguro gumagawa ng mini theatre yung owner nyan :o
at 250w using a 15" driver, it really needs a large room.
Post by: JojoD818 on Dec 15, 2004 at 12:51 PM
Handyman,
Galeng naman ng sub na yan! Siguro gumagawa ng mini theatre yung owner nyan :o
at 250w using a 15" driver, it really needs a large room.
Di naman kailangan ng large room nyan.... kailangan lang matibay dibdib mo! ;D ;D ;D ;D
Post by: kid on Dec 15, 2004 at 12:55 PM
Post by: JojoD818 on Dec 15, 2004 at 12:58 PM
Bawal pala sa mga mahina ang weak lungs yang sub na yan ;D ;D
Totoo yan, pero kidding aside, imagine the realism that this baby can do? pag explosions sa movie, talagang explosions! ;D
Post by: kid on Dec 15, 2004 at 01:09 PM
Post by: Handyman on Dec 15, 2004 at 01:36 PM
Handyman,
Galeng naman ng sub na yan! Siguro gumagawa ng mini theatre yung owner nyan :o
at 250w using a 15" driver, it really needs a large room.
Sir punk kid,
Siguro nga..Malalaman ko yan pag nai-deliver ko na sa kanya... :)
Post by: av_phile1 on Dec 15, 2004 at 05:51 PM
Wow! Can you give me a price range of these "batter commercial subs" that are out there?
Could these probably be Class B or D amps? Pero kakagigil naman yun 1000W, as long as RMS and not PMPO. ;D
If I recall right the REL, M&K, B&W and Velodyne flagship subs are in these power ranges. And they are priced roughly above 80T. Can't remember the models, but you can google search the brand. I think many use digital class D amps.
Post by: Handyman on Dec 16, 2004 at 12:22 PM
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0RwAwA3YVBBkQfTwe1Q8h8zJmPLTQbznF*Bl1X1ZKSxcRJIGtHsmZYjdlo24kyixlPS07UiaGH0NO0lSpIR035!803g9PRqX0wfvBlkrMj*g/T_front.jpg?dc=4675501789306782903)
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0RQBHAxEVc!VT5MSUDI!LH!Iy8pgS!3rR0*kP*mFbV5HGKUgPZhqZYAovX9OlHtrg7rdbGgxIvZfVqDBQHoMJzqnvPKtFcGpmgHiOuBFLLd0/T_Driver1.jpg?dc=4675501789277900043)
http://www.speedsound.com/caraudio.asp?pg=products&specific=jmroomhmk
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0QQAAALITzYj0bjsULFTLbs!3kNcZWeq!tpuLUmrY7fn2T8uGxd6ZJ49*RYJq2ZeoCxyX2zwmEz*xrwP63Gz7gV57he0jpGl2rNxnwAao*2s/T_amp.jpg?dc=4675501789213900258)
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&PartNumber=300-794&DID=7
Post by: JojoD818 on Dec 16, 2004 at 12:54 PM
Post by: Handyman on Dec 16, 2004 at 01:43 PM
Wow! Ganda wood spikes mo Bon! Para na pala mini-fridge ano? So how's the sound bro? I love gypsum screws too you know. ;D
;D
Thanks..tama ka parang mini frigde..kasamang ibinigay ng may ari sa akin yung spikes...pinatorno nya.
Ganda both movies and audio...di ko kayang tagalan ng malakas ang volume....para na kong naghahamon ng away sa kapitbahay. ;D
hintayin na lang natin yung may-ari ang magkuwento pag nasa kanya na... ;D
Post by: jerix on Dec 20, 2004 at 02:57 PM
Post by: timn8ter on Dec 20, 2004 at 09:46 PM
Quote
bros, do u have a way to turn a 6 ohms speaker into 8 ohms, without opening it? salamat po!
Why? Are you concerned that your amp is rated for 8 ohms and the speaker says it's a 6 ohm? The rating is a "nominal" resistance. Speakers are dynamic, not static resistance. A 6 or 8 ohm rating is just the average. The actual resistance will change with frequency. It could be as high as 40 ohms or as low as 3 ohms at different points. Chances are, if you have a solid state amp rated for 8 ohms and the speaker is 6 ohms it will probably play fine. If you're worried you could put a 2 ohm resistor (or even higher) on the positive terminal of the speaker but this may change the way the speaker sounds. However, it may be a change for the better!
Post by: JojoD818 on Dec 20, 2004 at 10:23 PM
Why? Are you concerned that your amp is rated for 8 ohms and the speaker says it's a 6 ohm? The rating is a "nominal" resistance. Speakers are dynamic, not static resistance. A 6 or 8 ohm rating is just the average. The actual resistance will change with frequency. It could be as high as 40 ohms or as low as 3 ohms at different points. Chances are, if you have a solid state amp rated for 8 ohms and the speaker is 6 ohms it will probably play fine. If you're worried you could put a 2 ohm resistor (or even higher) on the positive terminal of the speaker but this may change the way the speaker sounds. However, it may be a change for the better!
Amen man. ;)
Post by: JojoD818 on Dec 20, 2004 at 10:26 PM
;D
Thanks..tama ka parang mini frigde..kasamang ibinigay ng may ari sa akin yung spikes...pinatorno nya.
Ganda both movies and audio...di ko kayang tagalan ng malakas ang volume....para na kong naghahamon ng away sa kapitbahay. ;D
hintayin na lang natin yung may-ari ang magkuwento pag nasa kanya na... ;D
;D ;D ;D ;D
Baka pag Saving Private Ryan and panonoorin mo biglang dumapa ang mga kapitbahay at akalaing bumalik na ang mga hapon! ;D ;D ;D ;D
Congrats sa owner nyan sub na yan, sana madinig namin in the future. May pics na ba finished product Bon?
Post by: Handyman on Dec 21, 2004 at 09:31 AM
;D ;D ;D ;D
Baka pag Saving Private Ryan and panonoorin mo biglang dumapa ang mga kapitbahay at akalaing bumalik na ang mga hapon! ;D ;D ;D ;D
Congrats sa owner nyan sub na yan, sana madinig namin in the future. May pics na ba finished product Bon?
Jo, nasubukan ko na Saving Private Ryan...di ko malakasan eh...nadinig na rin ng may ari last sunday. Sana nga may pagkakataon kayong marinig..
Di ko pa sya nafinish...mag post ako ng pics pag tapos ko na... :)
Merry Christmas Bro... :)
Post by: jerix on Dec 22, 2004 at 08:35 AM
Why? Are you concerned that your amp is rated for 8 ohms and the speaker says it's a 6 ohm? The rating is a "nominal" resistance. Speakers are dynamic, not static resistance. A 6 or 8 ohm rating is just the average. The actual resistance will change with frequency. It could be as high as 40 ohms or as low as 3 ohms at different points. Chances are, if you have a solid state amp rated for 8 ohms and the speaker is 6 ohms it will probably play fine. If you're worried you could put a 2 ohm resistor (or even higher) on the positive terminal of the speaker but this may change the way the speaker sounds. However, it may be a change for the better!
TIM! Youre veryvery CORRECT! ;D this has always been an issue to me --- pero at least i know now what to do in case i again would try to experiment something which i really dont understand ;D
Post by: JojoD818 on Dec 22, 2004 at 12:21 PM
Jo, nasubukan ko na Saving Private Ryan...di ko malakasan eh...nadinig na rin ng may ari last sunday. Sana nga may pagkakataon kayong marinig..
Di ko pa sya nafinish...mag post ako ng pics pag tapos ko na...
Merry Christmas Bro... :)
Bon,
Bilib ako sa mga finish mo pre, lalu na yun speakers na ginamit sa audio fair. I'm sure maganda din yan finish sa sub, kahit sa pic eh makita ko man lang. :)
Merry Christmas din bro!
Post by: timn8ter on Dec 22, 2004 at 10:13 PM
(http://www.alegriaaudio.com/nightreeW.jpg)
Post by: Handyman on Dec 23, 2004 at 11:34 AM
Merry Christmas everyone!
(http://www.alegriaaudio.com/nightreeW.jpg)
Merry Christmas To All!!!...
Post by: Asktig on Dec 23, 2004 at 06:06 PM
Mga bossing help naman. I have this 100w 8ohms class-A stereo amplifier, gusto ko sana mag-setup ng 3way speakers para d2. Ano ang ma-rerecommend nyo na wattage ng woofer, mid-range and tweeter para sa ganitong set-up? Ok ba kung ang crossover network ko d2 ay yung mga ready-made na, tulad ng nabibili sa daiichi?
Thanks!
Post by: Asktig on Dec 24, 2004 at 09:29 AM
HAPPY HOLIDAYS!
Mga bossing help naman. I have this 100w 8ohms class-A stereo amplifier, gusto ko sana mag-setup ng 3way speakers para d2. Ano ang ma-rerecommend nyo na wattage ng woofer, mid-range and tweeter para sa ganitong set-up? Ok ba kung ang crossover network ko d2 ay yung mga ready-made na, tulad ng nabibili sa daiichi?
Thanks!
preferably ang woofer na ilalagay ko mga 8", i already had the baffles for it.
Post by: Jagner on Jan 06, 2005 at 06:36 PM
HAPPY HOLIDAYS!
Mga bossing help naman. I have this 100w 8ohms class-A stereo amplifier, gusto ko sana mag-setup ng 3way speakers para d2. Ano ang ma-rerecommend nyo na wattage ng woofer, mid-range and tweeter para sa ganitong set-up? Ok ba kung ang crossover network ko d2 ay yung mga ready-made na, tulad ng nabibili sa daiichi?
Thanks!
Hi,
IMHO, Mahirap magsabi ng wattage ng woofer, mid-range at tweeter kasi hindi wattage ang basehan sa pag-gawa ng speaker systems, kundi sensitivity at yung T/S parameters ng bawat speaker driver. The wattage normally described at the back of a speaker driver is either the nominal (meaning normal operation) or the maximum (short/peak operation) allowable power a driver can handle. You have to pay attention to the sensitivity of the driver. Mataas ng yung wattage eh kung masyadong mababa naman yung sensitivity ng driver, eh kakapusin yung amp mo.
Regarding crossovers, the 3-way crossovers sold at Dai-ichi are OK, 12-dB ang cut-off, and most of them are rated to work with 200-400 watt amplifiers. Note that with crossovers, there is an expected loss of about 2-3 dB for each driver because crossover networks also power eaters.
I would suggest to drop by the dai-ichi showroom at megamall and experiment with the different drivers and crossover networks, then you choose what suits your ears.
Hope this helps.
Cheers.
Post by: jerix on Jan 07, 2005 at 06:48 AM
Post by: timn8ter on Jan 07, 2005 at 07:10 AM
http://www.adireaudio.com/Files/TechPapers/DriverOrientation.pdf
Post by: odyopayl on Jan 07, 2005 at 12:20 PM
Post by: kenchix1 on Jan 07, 2005 at 12:51 PM
nasira kasi yung isang speaker ko, gusto ko sana palitan.
thanks po. :)
Post by: timn8ter on Jan 08, 2005 at 04:17 AM
1. For a HTIB you may be able to get very good results switching to a good full range driver solution. This could be Fostex FE127E or FE167E in the Fostex recommended enclosures. No crossover would be needed for the speakers, only the subwoofer which I assume already has one. These models are shielded so could be used as a center channel placed directly on the television or monitor. Perhaps this solution is not "impressive in appearance" but it is "impressive in sound quality".
2. I hope I'm understanding your question correctly. I apologize if I misunderstand. To replace a driver within an existing system requires finding one with the same electrical/mechanical specifications as the original design. Resistance (ohms) and wattage (power handling capability) are not the critical specifications to gauge this with. The only 4" driver I currently stock is the Fostex FE127E (closer to 4.5") but it is a full-range driver usually put into single driver enclosures.
Post by: kenchix1 on Jan 08, 2005 at 09:48 AM
2. I hope I'm understanding your question correctly. I apologize if I misunderstand. To replace a driver within an existing system requires finding one with the same electrical/mechanical specifications as the original design. Resistance (ohms) and wattage (power handling capability) are not the critical specifications to gauge this with. The only 4" driver I currently stock is the Fostex FE127E (closer to 4.5") but it is a full-range driver usually put into single driver enclosures.
thanks for the reply. So it means, I have to find a 6 ohms, 150watts 4 inch driver. The enclosure I have is from NSP60's rear speakers. (NSP60 rear has one tweeter and one 4" driver). Would it be a problem if I put in an 8 ohms (100watts or higher) 4 inch driver in both of it (both rear) ? The inside of the enclosure is bare, and I cant see any dividing network in it. I'm not going to use it as a rear anymore anyway that's why I plan to replace the driver.
Thanks again. :)
Post by: timn8ter on Jan 08, 2005 at 11:56 AM
Post by: alabonjo on Jan 11, 2005 at 09:42 AM
chiep to build vs hard to build = hi fi sound
(http://www.geocities.com/rbrines1/Pages/FT-1600_MkII/Bernards_MkI.jpg)
you'll find this at Bob Brines & Timn8ster webste gallery :)
Post by: jerix on Jan 11, 2005 at 10:25 AM
Post by: wanderlust on Jan 11, 2005 at 10:34 AM
Post by: JojoD818 on Jan 11, 2005 at 10:38 AM
Great job dude! so how's the sound?
Post by: Vhongbiker on Jan 11, 2005 at 12:29 PM
sir galeng ah! congrats.... narra ba sya sir? ;)
Post by: Titanium on Jan 11, 2005 at 12:45 PM
Post by: timn8ter on Jan 11, 2005 at 01:12 PM
How much kaya yung mga drivers na ganyan???? I want to build one.
Php4200 each at http://www.pi.alegriaaudio.com/prod02.htm
Post by: Handyman on Jan 11, 2005 at 01:35 PM
eto naman yung 3" Tangband drivers... ;D
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0QQAmA48THoMCK68CTJcnfMIawLEuS5!XEtvD8eoZmiqzgfOm!!2D22*1vJukrtgmB2MFGzQnEz4*lTSwmmz4RNZxi4dnR94VRKymHEGDKX4/bert1.jpg?dc=4675505287784483397)
Post by: Jagner on Jan 11, 2005 at 03:00 PM
Nice Work... can be used as BGM speakers for restaurants & cafes, ala Bose Acoustimass... gawa ka na kasi ng catalogue... ;D ;D ;D
Post by: kid on Jan 11, 2005 at 05:28 PM
Post by: iceman90a on Jan 11, 2005 at 07:54 PM
Post by: alabonjo on Jan 11, 2005 at 09:41 PM
For the priced I payed with the driver, bargain 'coz Timn8ster bring it here
with out any shipping fee ;D (also his not in the business pa, anyway still affordable ;)),
I think he both it from "madisound".
For the other material like "mdf", I used 1 whole sheet in 3/4" thick.
Also the front panel is stucked with solid 3/4" national tree of course "narra".
For the performanced, for the priced you paid, superb ::)
If you love jazz even "rnb" music will handle very well specially jazz vocals
acoustic bass you wont believe it and you wont believe that you build them!
The mid and high so detailed and clear and the bass region handle so well
plus the "magic" 3D & stereo imaging and dissapearing effect. ;D
Guys I'm just using my Onkyo 601, What else if Hi fi stuff audio gear.
Sir Bon Ang danda nyan! hope sooner (went Tim Visit again ;D) Ill build for
my home theater.
Thanks again!
Post by: JojoD818 on Jan 12, 2005 at 12:15 AM
You never cease to amaze me, lalu na at gamit mo palagi yun favorite color ko ng wood! ;)
You the man! err the "woodman"! ;D ;D
Post by: Handyman on Jan 12, 2005 at 09:05 AM
punk kid, thank you.
iceman90a, sir vince, sent you pm.
alabanjo, thanks din..baka magpadala uli dito si Tim, magpareserve ka na >:D
JojoD, Thanks Jo, kaya mo din to bro..lots of sanding from 120 to 600 grit then apply Tung oil.
Post by: Titanium on Jan 14, 2005 at 09:18 AM
Php4200 each at http://www.pi.alegriaaudio.com/prod02.htm
Thanks for the info. Another newbie question-- are these drivers cross-overless? meaning, you just connect them directly to the speaker output of the amp. Im planning to use a 12 Watt tube amp.
Post by: timn8ter on Jan 14, 2005 at 09:56 AM
Post by: Titanium on Jan 14, 2005 at 12:50 PM
There is no crossover, however, the design alabanjo built uses a BSC (baffle step compensation) network and a Zobel (impedance correction) circuit. This can lower efficiency about 3 db but it's still efficient enough that a 12 watt amp has no trouble driving it.
Thanks a lot. I saw in the website that there is construction plan for the speaker box, which I can make. This will be my next project.
Post by: FASTBACK on Jan 15, 2005 at 01:32 AM
Bernard...Congrats bro!.. :)
eto naman yung 3" Tangband drivers... ;D
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0QQAmA48THoMCK68CTJcnfMIawLEuS5!XEtvD8eoZmiqzgfOm!!2D22*1vJukrtgmB2MFGzQnEz4*lTSwmmz4RNZxi4dnR94VRKymHEGDKX4/bert1.jpg?dc=4675505287784483397)
Post by: alabonjo on Jan 16, 2005 at 05:17 PM
Thanks a lot. I saw in the website that there is construction plan for the speaker box, which I can make. This will be my next project.
Good luck, Bro! may the force be with you ;D
Post by: Handyman on Jan 20, 2005 at 06:20 AM
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0QgCNAgkTT2oYHjXX6DZQvjux5npHDQop4ofhViZYmAv4pHLkDxzD2M3uzoeHyDN8AYaSDkJpiu0eo4MvixkfoblTi8qEQnhivLo1qKtc0u4/fq2_02.jpg?dc=4675506564900776391)
Post by: jacorb88 on Jan 21, 2005 at 11:50 AM
Post by: D0Hbert on Jan 21, 2005 at 01:38 PM
Post by: jacorb88 on Jan 21, 2005 at 03:03 PM
Post by: D0Hbert on Jan 21, 2005 at 07:09 PM
Post by: jacorb88 on Jan 24, 2005 at 03:45 PM
Post by: Handyman on Jan 26, 2005 at 01:16 PM
how much tangband drivers 3" upto 6.5" including crossovers for which ? where to buy too? thanks.
PM mo si Timn8ter :)
Post by: timn8ter on Jan 26, 2005 at 09:30 PM
I don't know of anyone selling Tangband in PI. Alegria Audio offers the W3-871S in limited quantities. As for crossovers;
Crossovers should never be pre-made. They should always be built for the specific design being worked on.
http://www.pinoydvd.com/board/index.php?topic=22682.80
First time builders may want to seriously consider the advantages of a single-driver or assisted single-driver system. Many highly regarded audio equipment designers use single driver systems for their personal systems. In my home theater I use a FE207E with a super tweeter for my mains and a dual FE167E box for my center channel.
Post by: jerix on Jan 27, 2005 at 07:19 AM
single-driver or assisted single-driver system.
Sirs, what do we actually mean by these terms? tnx ::)
Post by: timn8ter on Jan 27, 2005 at 07:27 AM
Post by: jacorb88 on Feb 03, 2005 at 10:15 AM
how much are the fostex fe167e drivers? where to get it locally?
also, based on the write-up by bob brines, this single-driver speaker is designed for music, as he didn't mention its performance in relation to movies or ht.
have u tried your set in ht? hows the performance? i'm planning to use it as fronts for my ht.
thanks.
Post by: timn8ter on Feb 03, 2005 at 10:18 AM
Quote
how much are the fostex fe167e drivers? where to get it locally?
P4200 each from Alegria Audio
http://www.pi.alegriaaudio.com/prod02.htm
Post by: timn8ter on Feb 03, 2005 at 09:12 PM
alabanjo asked me to let you know he is unable to reply via his work Internet connection. I know that he uses the FT1600 as mains in his home theater and he is very happy with the performance. I use Fostex drivers as the mains in my home theater also. The detail and volume is very good. My center channel is a dual FE167E box.
Post by: Handyman on Feb 04, 2005 at 08:58 AM
alabonjo,
how much are the fostex fe167e drivers? where to get it locally?
also, based on the write-up by bob brines, this single-driver speaker is designed for music, as he didn't mention its performance in relation to movies or ht.
have u tried your set in ht? hows the performance? i'm planning to use it as fronts for my ht.
thanks.
I am using Fostex FE207e's on my BOiNk...i use them as fronts for my HT...very good for both music and movies...
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0RwDOFtgV4x6O80BgUjp0UyD!r5w5begrdWvE!NNw*jxzC1KofxthoXWvItQODE3j*asupNIonb5wrrHc4mMjVs*zV5q48Lf5Hlr3WeI6*A8/Ambel_Boink.jpg?dc=4675498775619782504)
Post by: FASTBACK on Feb 04, 2005 at 10:10 AM
I am using Fostex FE207e's on my BOiNk...i use them as fronts for my HT...very good for both music and movies...
(http://groups.msn.com/_Secure/0RwDOFtgV4x6O80BgUjp0UyD!r5w5begrdWvE!NNw*jxzC1KofxthoXWvItQODE3j*asupNIonb5wrrHc4mMjVs*zV5q48Lf5Hlr3WeI6*A8/Ambel_Boink.jpg?dc=4675498775619782504)
wow.... I've heard those speakers play, it really rocks.
Handyman still busy with your projects?
Post by: timn8ter on Feb 04, 2005 at 10:33 AM
Did you put the downfiring port in the BOiNk that we talked about?
Post by: timn8ter on Feb 04, 2005 at 10:56 PM
See this thread for details.
http://www.pinoydvd.com/board/index.php?topic=31152.0
Post by: Handyman on Feb 06, 2005 at 08:47 PM
Hey Bon.
Did you put the downfiring port in the BOiNk that we talked about?
Not yet Tim. still so many sanding job to do with the sub... ;D
Post by: Handyman on Feb 06, 2005 at 08:51 PM
10% off Fostex drivers at AlegriaAudio.Com
See this thread for details.
http://www.pinoydvd.com/board/index.php?topic=31152.0
Bili na kayo...mura na 'to. :)
Post by: timn8ter on Feb 07, 2005 at 12:06 AM
(http://www.timn8er.com/AuraNS3F.jpg)
For more info visit my hobby website at http://www.timn8er.com
Post by: john5479 on Feb 07, 2005 at 01:53 AM
Post by: jerix on Feb 07, 2005 at 10:04 AM
Post by: timn8ter on Feb 07, 2005 at 11:27 AM
http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/firstwatt/firstwatt_2.html
Post by: jerix on Feb 07, 2005 at 01:52 PM
Post by: av_phile1 on Feb 07, 2005 at 02:27 PM
But...
If you do hear differences and can afford exotic cables, let not a DBT result discourage you. Every person operates at his subjective value assessments, I doubt if any hobbyst ever conducts bias-controlled DBT in the privacy of his listening room anyway. This hobby has all the room from the ridiculous and absurd to the logical and scientific. The two need not meet. ;D
Post by: av_phile1 on Feb 07, 2005 at 02:32 PM
I tend to disregard any beliefs in the mystical properties of speaker wire. I've seen too many cases of zip cord being disguised as "boutique" cable and yet believed by "experts" to be better than "regular" cable. However, in the case of full range drivers I have personally experienced the benefit of using small gauge, single strand, solid core wire as speaker wire. I think this can be explained as providing increased resistance which Nelson Pass has shown to be beneficial.
http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/firstwatt/firstwatt_2.html
Have you heard about that infamous DBT test where the subjects opined they heard sonic differences among different cables when all the while only ZIP cords were used?
Solid core wires are relatively more difficult to manage than stranded. But I wouldn't be surprised if they perform better. Afterall, those speaker voice coils are solid wires anyway. ;D
Post by: timn8ter on Feb 07, 2005 at 09:51 PM
Post by: 45caliber on Feb 07, 2005 at 09:54 PM
Here's another fun little project I just finished. I built this as a PC speaker but it's good enough to use in a small stereo or surround sound system. It uses the Aurasound NS3-193-8A 3" extended range driver. Sounds really good for a little box.
(http://www.timn8er.com/AuraNS3F.jpg)
For more info visit my hobby website at http://www.timn8er.com
saan po available yung Aurasound NS3-193-8A 3" and how much po?
Post by: timn8ter on Feb 07, 2005 at 09:56 PM
Quote
saan po available yung Aurasound NS3-193-8A 3" and how much po?
I may be able to get a few brought over in balikbayan boxes. Probably P1400 each.
Post by: 45caliber on Feb 07, 2005 at 10:00 PM
Post by: timn8ter on Feb 07, 2005 at 11:54 PM
thanks po. when?
Approximately March 1.
Post by: Toquero on Feb 08, 2005 at 04:18 AM
I may be able to get a few brought over in balikbayan boxes. Probably P1400 each.Is there by any chance that you could brought here in manila speaker accessories like flared ports and subwoofer driver (10" dayton driver) if ever how much would it cost me... ;D I was planning to start my second DIY subwoofer project but due to availability of materials It always put on hold. :-\ I've once used aura sub drivers for my subwoofer and it performs good considering it's design simplicity..... ;)
Post by: timn8ter on Feb 08, 2005 at 04:39 AM
Post by: jerix on Feb 08, 2005 at 07:35 AM
Is the MDF board available in most hardwares, and how much per board?
How about the ZIP CORD can i buy that in electrical shops, how much din per meter? tnx ;D
Post by: qguy on Feb 08, 2005 at 10:44 AM
Post by: Handyman on Feb 09, 2005 at 09:08 AM
Bros,
Is the MDF board available in most hardwares, and how much per board?
How about the ZIP CORD can i buy that in electrical shops, how much din per meter? tnx ;D
i buy 3/4" mdf from Seato, cor ng 20th ave. and tuazon sa Cubao, P950 per board 8ftx4ft.'
Post by: av_phile1 on Feb 09, 2005 at 10:27 AM
Hey guys I have an old SONY speakers, the enclosure pretty solid, but the sound is terrible. I am planning to change the tweeters / woofers and x-overs.. any suggestion were to get woofers and tweeters ... I Can fit at most 6.5 inch woofer.
There are drivers in all electronic AV shops at Raon and Dai-1chi showroom megamall. Dai-1chi, Micro and Soundedge are common; Coral, Fostex and JBL can also be found but few, if i recall right. You may want to bring with you the tweeter and woofer to see if the diameter and screw positions of the new drivers are the same or close.
With regards frequency dividing networks, there are also many in these stores depending on the wattage, make and dividing points.
Post by: jackryan on Feb 09, 2005 at 10:51 AM
The sound seems much, much better now. I wanted to get the Sony woofer available at that time but they only have a single one and I needed two badly.
I wonder if the Sony ones would sound better than the Dai-ichi woofer replacements rated at 8 ohms, 100 watts and they are in parallel. Would doing a mix and match be okay or not advisable ?
-jackryan 8)
Post by: Jagner on Feb 09, 2005 at 01:44 PM
Just my opinion. Cheers
Post by: av_phile1 on Feb 09, 2005 at 02:01 PM
Post above is correct. They make look alike and sized the same, but there are many other parameters in loudspeakers that make one brand behave differently from another given the same input and enclosure conditions.
Post by: jerix on Feb 10, 2005 at 07:21 AM
i buy 3/4" mdf from Seato, cor ng 20th ave. and tuazon sa Cubao, P950 per board 8ftx4ft.'
bro handy tnx for the info. -- Cubao is far from my place - ::)
it seems that plyboard has a high level of resonance if use for speaker box. Thats why what is preferred is the MDF -- how about placing some foam inside the speaker box made of 3/4 plyboard, will this be enough to eliminate the resonance? tnx again :)
Post by: timn8ter on Feb 10, 2005 at 07:27 AM
I should re-phrase that. The reason for wanting stiffness and adding bracing is to raise the resonance frequency of a vibrating panel high enough that it doesn't interfere with the sound of the speaker.
Post by: Toquero on Feb 10, 2005 at 10:04 AM
Plywood is preferred because of it's stiffness. To reduce vibration the preferred method is bracing. Adding foam, polyester, wool, felt, etc., may absorb some upper frequencies to reduce their output at the port but does nothing for panel vibrations.
I should re-phrase that. The reason for wanting stiffness and adding bracing is to raise the resonance frequency of a vibrating panel high enough that it doesn't interfere with the sound of the speaker.
So what you are saying is common building materials like marine plywood, plyboard and even solid wood is actually prefered over MDF boards especially on subwofer enclosures unless if the material cost against MDF board would cost more. Because here in Manila based on our members infos, 3/4" MDF boards cost (Php 950) , 3/4" marine plywood cost (Php 1000) and 3/4" plyboard cost (Php 650-750). Among these materials , plywoods are stiffer than mdf boards. Are there any tonal differences that would affect the whole speaker setup considreing all enclosures are properly braced?.... ???
I've read to other foreign diy forums that they also prefer Class A plywoods for their projects .I don't know if they only saying it due unavailability of mdf material.... ???
Post by: timn8ter on Feb 10, 2005 at 10:43 AM
Post by: jerix on Feb 10, 2005 at 10:53 AM
Plywood is preferred because of it's stiffness. To reduce vibration the preferred method is bracing. Adding foam, polyester, wool, felt, etc., may absorb some upper frequencies to reduce their output at the port but does nothing for panel vibrations.
I should re-phrase that. The reason for wanting stiffness and adding bracing is to raise the resonance frequency of a vibrating panel high enough that it doesn't interfere with the sound of the speaker.
ok tnx for this info bro -- ;D i hope we can discuss here other concerns for speaker building.
so, PLYWOOD and PLYBOARD are two different things? ::)
Post by: av_phile1 on Feb 10, 2005 at 11:57 AM
MDF is universally accepted as the best material for speaker boxes and used in many hi-fi speakers, both in the low end and high-end price ranges. But admittedly, it's a lot more difficult for DIYers to handle than plywood.
Check this out:
http://www.robertshifi.com/faq/faq-9.html#21
Post by: jerix on Feb 10, 2005 at 03:26 PM
Bros, may i just bring up this one... "What is a ZIP CORD, where can we buy this? tnx ;)
Post by: Jagner on Feb 10, 2005 at 05:19 PM
Post by: timn8ter on Feb 10, 2005 at 09:37 PM
Zip cord - same as flat cord in electrical appliances. However, for speakers, these are speaker wires that look like flat cords, with one wire striped or color coded. These wires come in either black or transparent insulation, with varying sizes. You can buy 'em in any electronic shops
Yes, thank you for clarifying that.
Please don't confuse the term "zip cord" with standard appliance cord. There is a benefit to using properly constructed speaker cable made with good copper and a good jacket and that is freedom from corrosion, especially in a humid climate.
Post by: jerix on Feb 11, 2005 at 06:49 AM
Post by: Handyman on Feb 11, 2005 at 09:12 AM
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v692/BonDizon/temp1.jpg)(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v692/BonDizon/temp2.jpg)
Post by: FASTBACK on Feb 15, 2005 at 12:25 AM
Tempest 15" Sub, Amp 250W, dim:35"x25"x25" :)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v692/BonDizon/docsub.jpg)
This really gives truth to the saying " This rocks the house"
Nice job Handyman.
Post by: timn8ter on Feb 23, 2005 at 09:27 AM
Quote
saan po available yung Aurasound NS3-193-8A 3" and how much po?Alegria Audio will have a limited supply of these drivers available March 1. P1350 each.
http://www.pi.alegriaaudio.com/NS3-193-8A.htm
Post by: dsd01 on Nov 08, 2005 at 01:45 PM
Post by: Vhongbiker on Nov 09, 2005 at 05:57 AM
thank you.... ;)
Post by: timn8ter on Nov 09, 2005 at 07:42 AM
http://www.pi.alegriaaudio.com/Ling.htm
:)
Post by: Lawin on Nov 09, 2005 at 04:07 PM
I'm a newbie here. I own a complete set of the Dai-ichi Euro's8 Speaker System + Subs. I'm quite satisfied on its performance, however during a recent visit to my relatives, I have a chance to audition the DIY speakers below ( together with a DIY 100W 2 Channel Amplifier). It sounds waaaay... better than my Euros'8, the bass is clear and tight, the mids and highs are much clearer than my Euros ( although not bright or matinis). Sounds like you are in front of a live band (we were playing instrumentals from a CD being played on an old Samsung CD player).
The main driver is a 12" Starvox Speaker, the midrange speaker is Nakamichi (similar to those being used in a PA system) and the tweeter is for a car. It's made of 3/4" marine plywood although not quite finished yet, he claims his speaker system already won first place in a local contest in Malabon.
I was quite intrigue to the point that I want to replace my Euro's with a similar DIY speaker system. Appreciate any comments/advise on the design? --- thanks!
DIY Speaker
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/eglasam/Front2DIYSpeakers.jpg)
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/eglasam/CloseUPDIYSpeakers.jpg)
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/eglasam/DriverDIYSpeaker.jpg)
A similar DIY speaker being offered to me minus the mid-range & tweeter, speaker is a 15" JBL. Price is 12K. Although the size of the baffles is quite big. Is the price OK?
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/eglasam/FSDIYSpeakers.jpg)
(http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b31/eglasam/FS2DIYSpeakers.jpg)
Post by: Jagner on Nov 10, 2005 at 03:49 PM
mga sir ask ko lang kung pwede ko ba ipang drive ng passive na subwoofer yung ordinary na amp?
Bakit hindi? as long as the amp is sufficient enough the provide the power required by the subs, I don't see any problem. Yun nga lang, if your passive subwoofer does not have a LF crossover, you need to provide one.
Hope this helps.
Post by: markmlists on Nov 11, 2005 at 12:16 PM
What would additional damping material such as fiber fill, fiber pad or foam to the inside walls and corners of the speakers do to the sound? Extended bass?
Is there a way to increase a speaker's sensitivity rating short of replacing the drivers?
Thanks !
Post by: wraith on Nov 12, 2005 at 03:18 AM
Hi.
What would additional damping material such as fiber fill, fiber pad or foam to the inside walls and corners of the speakers do to the sound? Extended bass?
Is there a way to increase a speaker's sensitivity rating short of replacing the drivers?
Thanks !
Fiber Fill > lowers Qtc and shifts the resonant frequency downwards... extended bass nga :)
Foam behind the driver, along the inner walls, and corners > prevents standing waves. This will improve midrange.
To increase the speaker's sensitivity without changing anything, position the speaker at the corner of the room. corner loading will make the speaker more efficient and more directional (just like horn loading)
Post by: markmlists on Nov 12, 2005 at 07:49 AM
Is there such a thing as over damping? Baka kako masobrahan eh :)
salamat.
Post by: wraith on Nov 12, 2005 at 09:36 AM
Sa alam ko, the maximum ratio is 1.5lbs of fiberfill per cubicfoot of internal volume. above that ratio, the effect will already act negatively because the internal volume is already too dense... effectively cutting internal volume instead of dampening it.
BTW, will you use it for a midrange/midbass driver, or for a subwoofer? Kung sa subwoofer, stuff all you can until the 1.5lbs/cuft ratio. Pero pag midrange/midbass, baka magka negative effect ang too much fiberfill on midrange detail... minimum stuffing lang suguro if the speaker is intended to play up to the midrange region.
Post by: rmm on Nov 15, 2005 at 02:15 PM
maski out of the topic ako...
I am in the planning stage for a videoke machine with built-in speaker in a box with the players on the top layer...my concentration is more on the speaker box size and wall divider...
Is there any simple orientation and box size computation of the commercial speaker I will be using ( konzert - 10"
woofer, 5" mid and dome tweeter ) . I don't have access to o'scope and I can't find the resonant freq.
I want to have a clear mid ( vocal ) sound quality not more on the bass. any recommendation on what
brand of speaker is the best for vocal reproduction?
Thanks and regards,
RMM
Post by: markmlists on Nov 16, 2005 at 09:16 AM
I did line the speaker cabinet last weekend cabinet but did not stuff it with fiber-fill.
I used a thin non-woven fiber cloth (the nearest material to felt I could find ) and tacked it using a double sided foam tape. I considered but later thought against acoustic pads for subwoofers since it is too thick. Midrange did improve. the bass became tighter and the overall sound was cleaner, warmer. Now the problem, tweeter output has decreased (perceived due to improved midrange perhaps).
Any suggestions? change internal wires? Remove wall damping around the tweeter area?
Thanks...
Post by: av_phile1 on Nov 16, 2005 at 09:30 AM
Post by: markmlists on Nov 16, 2005 at 11:24 AM
thanks for pointing that out..
If that is the case then, I surmise that the tweeter output did not decrease, but the midrange drowned it resulting in the seeming attenuated output.... may point ba? thanks.
Post by: jerix on Feb 16, 2006 at 11:18 AM
So i want to ask - for a 300 watts / 8 ohms speaker ano ba dapat ang specs ng tweeter, mids and sub? tnx
Post by: markmlists on Mar 10, 2006 at 10:37 AM
1. will this negatively disrupt the combined sound from the 2 drivers or passable naman? should i be bothered or lalabas namang di masyado magkalayo?
2. any remedies using diffferent non polar caps and resistor values to match their output? current cap is 2.2uf@250V.
3. I read somewhere that woofer and and tweeters are not rated the same to begin with and higher sensitivity talaga than the woofer; otherwise, nasal daw ang sound if same sens rating sila. any truth to this?
Thanks sa lahat ng gustong mag share ng info.
Post by: D0Hbert on Mar 10, 2006 at 11:56 AM
Use a driver attenuation network on the piezo horn tweeter. You need 2 resistors, one 4.8ohms in series with the (+) leg of the tweeter, the other 5.3ohms across the + and -, in effect parallel to the tweeter. This will cause a 8db attenuation, assuming the tweeter is 8 ohms. Changing the values of the capacitor won't affect attenuation, it will only affect the cross-over point of the tweeter. Changing it to better polypropelenes or using non-polar electrolytics won't affect volume output, but it will affect sound quality reproduction.
Post by: oweidah on Mar 10, 2006 at 02:20 PM
Post by: markmlists on Mar 10, 2006 at 03:16 PM
Its actually the Dai-ichi PL-6 na may stands. Small, affordable but high sensitivity. Try ko din muna sa orig crossover but I wanted info lang on a backup plan so I can finish it within a single weekend. I also considered upping th cap to 4.7 so the woofer can take care of the starting high freq but baka naman pag kick-in ng tweeter eh napakalakas so I asked.
Meron pa rin akong tone controls. :) Hopefully next week separate preamp na.
Post by: oweidah on Mar 10, 2006 at 03:26 PM
Post by: D0Hbert on Mar 11, 2006 at 03:49 PM
Post by: hattori_hanzo on Mar 12, 2006 at 07:41 PM
by the way yung subwoofer design I got from Adire tempest audio subwoofer sealed box design. kaso yung driver na gamit ko local lang 15" dai-ichi.
please guys I need your help on these one. thanks so much!
Post by: alz on Mar 16, 2006 at 02:10 AM
Post by: qguy on Mar 16, 2006 at 06:31 AM
Post by: hattori_hanzo on Mar 16, 2006 at 08:17 AM
im about to build a HT subwoofer, have anyone seen a 21" subwoofer driver, meron na ba naka gawa sa inyo dito ng ganitong kalaki subwoofer? i need your advice before I purchase one sa raon.
I intent to use either sealed or vented box enclosure for this sub with sir jojo's DIY amp. by the way its for my future HT upgrades...
need your reviews and opinions, thanks!!!
Post by: qguy on Mar 16, 2006 at 01:36 PM
1. you have a basketball court size living room , if you dont see number 2
2. your friggin INSANE !!! ;D btw.. invite mo ko pag nabuo mo na siya .. insane din ako I have two 12 inch woofers , one 12 inch subwoofer in a small room .. for audio palang yan.. di pa ako nagbubuo ng HT :o
seriously.. I have seen a 24 inch subwoofer in Makati years ago in car auto parts shop, so far your best bet are car shops. Normally the larger ones are 15 and 18, actually baka 18 mahirap na makahanap. Why not go for two 12 inch or two 15 inch if your really need that SPL. besides it might be easier to build an enclosure for those size woofers
Another options is to look for those old Cerwin Vega floorstanders with 15 inch woofers, slap in a subwoofer amp and your done
need help guys,
im about to build a HT subwoofer, have anyone seen a 21" subwoofer driver, meron na ba naka gawa sa inyo dito ng ganitong kalaki subwoofer? i need your advice before I purchase one sa raon.
I intent to use either sealed or vented box enclosure for this sub with sir jojo's DIY amp. by the way its for my future HT upgrades...
need your reviews and opinions, thanks!!!
Post by: hattori_hanzo on Mar 16, 2006 at 01:48 PM
hehehe! actually kaya ako na inspire mag buo ng 21" sub is nung napanood ko yung zorro 2 sa THX theater sa makati. galing nung explosion dun sa scene na lasing si zorro (banderas) at hinabol niya ang kabayo niya then "KABOOM!!" yanig yung upuan ko eh hehehe!
simple lang sana ang design ko sealed or vented ang gagamitin kong box 24" x 30" x 24". actually the 18" or 21" inchers are readly available na sa raon ang dami dami dun ang gaganda pa tumunog. I happen to audition one crown ang brand niya, wala pang box pero bumabayo na nung hinook-up niya sa phonic na amp. kaya it kept me wondering tuloy kung gaano kaya kalakas ang SPL nito pag naka box na hehehe!
Post by: qguy on Mar 16, 2006 at 01:52 PM
Post by: Handyman on Mar 16, 2006 at 05:06 PM
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v692/BonDizon/Tempest_jr.jpg)
Post by: hattori_hanzo on Mar 16, 2006 at 06:00 PM
This is a 21" x 21" x 25" sealed box for 15" Tempest.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v692/BonDizon/Tempest_jr.jpg)
sir pwede bang iresize yung adire tempest or better use the same size of driver nalang 15" instead of 21"?
Post by: Handyman on Mar 16, 2006 at 11:22 PM
mas maganda siguro kung same driver size na lang ang gamitin mo sa tempest box. try mo search ang "tempest sealed box application" or "tempest vented box application".
Post by: hattori_hanzo on Mar 16, 2006 at 11:45 PM
Post by: elvenears on Mar 17, 2006 at 02:02 AM
Post by: Handyman on Apr 03, 2006 at 11:35 PM
Tweeter - Fostex FT207D
Driver - 4.5" CSS WR125ST
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v692/BonDizon/rosa4.jpg)
Post by: timn8ter on Apr 04, 2006 at 02:05 AM
Post by: oweidah on Apr 04, 2006 at 05:50 AM
Post by: john5479 on Apr 04, 2006 at 07:29 AM
my speaker with new finish:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v240/japjag/100_4336.jpg)
Post by: Handyman on Apr 04, 2006 at 07:59 AM
Thank you..they do sound good...di ko pa na try sa tube amps.
am still working on the finish...break-in muna.
Nice finish on your speakers :)
Post by: gregg on Apr 04, 2006 at 08:49 AM
Post by: hattori_hanzo on Apr 04, 2006 at 03:04 PM
Guys, i need help. Where can i buy subwoofer amp plate? I am planning to build a 12" subwoofer. And what is the most affordable driver that is decent enough for the sub? Thanks.
Brod PM mo si Sir JojoD, he can provide you a sub amp plate...
Post by: khelo275 on Apr 11, 2006 at 05:06 PM
si master jojoD.... D best tlaga yan ;)
Post by: joey on Apr 17, 2006 at 11:03 PM
need help guys,
im about to build a HT subwoofer, have anyone seen a 21" subwoofer driver, meron na ba naka gawa sa inyo dito ng ganitong kalaki subwoofer? i need your advice before I purchase one sa raon.
I intent to use either sealed or vented box enclosure for this sub with sir jojo's DIY amp. by the way its for my future HT upgrades...
need your reviews and opinions, thanks!!!
meron ako 24' 2 pcs pa yung isanaka box na...
Post by: ianmorales on May 08, 2006 at 01:28 PM
Thanks!
Post by: wolvenfang on May 11, 2006 at 08:06 AM
Post by: qguy on May 11, 2006 at 11:02 AM
pictures naman dyan
Meron ako 36 inch na woofer naka box na rin !!!
yun nga lang tatlong box, tig 12 inch woofer bawat isa 12 x 3 = 36 for Audio only...di pa ako nag setup ng HT ;D ;D ;D
meron ako 24' 2 pcs pa yung isanaka box na...
Post by: darrel on Jun 01, 2006 at 12:02 PM
maybe 10k if fully finished
5 tweeters
ULTRA UT 108
2 Midrange
Crystal Mobile Audio CS 504M
8 Woofers Daiichi
2 6" PRO-PW-65D
2 6" PRO-PW-65DS
4 8" PRO-PW-90D
(http://pic17.picturetrail.com/VOL804/4414616/9335949/151744380.jpg)
Post by: JojoD818 on Jun 01, 2006 at 12:43 PM
you've done it na pala. so what's your initial impression on this project?
Post by: darrel on Jun 01, 2006 at 04:32 PM
i havent tested it yet all together kc wla pko receiver i'll try to come up with the money, i wanted to buy THE SAKURA AV5024.
I hook the floorstanding speaker in our pioneer amp. it blew the amp away it suddenly shut off and and wont start anymore. it blew the amp when i played the MTX Tweeter and Bass Tester which goes from 20Hz to 20000KHz
the woofer was good parang nka subs kna, the highs were also better than before when i used a daiici horn tweeter (ht-114) it over powered the whole set up. and the midrange cleared the combination of the tweeters and the woofer the voices are much audible.
hopefully makabili nko ng receiver so i can test it all.
Post by: hattori_hanzo on Jun 01, 2006 at 08:57 PM
I hook the floorstanding speaker in our pioneer amp. it blew the amp away it suddenly shut off and and wont start anymore. it blew the amp when i played the MTX Tweeter and Bass Tester which goes from 20Hz to 20000KHz
Darrel, Congrats sa speakers setup mo ganda ng asthetics...
bro nasira ba yung pioneer amp mo? bakit kaya? baka theres somethings wrong, ano sa palagay mo?... ???
Post by: Handyman on Jun 01, 2006 at 10:42 PM
Congrats!! Galeng!!
Post by: JojoD818 on Jun 01, 2006 at 11:53 PM
sir JOJO thank you for the help nga pla.
i havent tested it yet all together kc wla pko receiver i'll try to come up with the money, i wanted to buy THE SAKURA AV5024.
I hook the floorstanding speaker in our pioneer amp. it blew the amp away it suddenly shut off and and wont start anymore. it blew the amp when i played the MTX Tweeter and Bass Tester which goes from 20Hz to 20000KHz
the woofer was good parang nka subs kna, the highs were also better than before when i used a daiici horn tweeter (ht-114) it over powered the whole set up. and the midrange cleared the combination of the tweeters and the woofer the voices are much audible.
hopefully makabili nko ng receiver so i can test it all.
glad to be of service.
if you are sure that you don't have a fault in your floorstander's wiring then it is possible that your speaker system presents such a difficult load that your pioneer amp is/was not able to handle. did you use a passive network?
Post by: hattori_hanzo on Jun 02, 2006 at 12:01 AM
Post by: JojoD818 on Jun 02, 2006 at 12:09 AM
tada!!! sir jojo to the rescue, galing yaan... ;)
hala! hindi naman, just trying to help bro. :)
Post by: darrel on Jun 02, 2006 at 12:29 AM
thanx sir hans, sir dpa nga masyado pogi ung speakers ko raw built pa. wla pa budget for paint.
sir JOJO what is a passive network.
the pioneer is not an avr amp its the one which comes with a mini component.
i think its just overloaded because its almost maxed out when the test started in 20hz maybe when the low frequencies was played maybe the amp cant handle it.
Post by: jerix on Jun 02, 2006 at 10:15 AM
Post by: JojoD818 on Jun 02, 2006 at 12:32 PM
Post by: darrel on Jun 02, 2006 at 10:32 PM
just bought sakura amp. i'll start putting up things tommorow for testing.
Sir jerix what is impedance mismatch?
Post by: JojoD818 on Jun 03, 2006 at 01:26 AM
Post by: hattori_hanzo on Jun 03, 2006 at 09:53 AM
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d16/hanns76/Seriesconnection.jpg)
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d16/hanns76/Parallelconnection.jpg)
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d16/hanns76/mycomputation.jpg)
pero kung sure kana na sa wiring, okey na din...
sayang yung pioneer mo bro. oh well just like masta jojo said "poor pioneer amp gone to heaven" or hell hehehe (joke) ;D ;D ;D
Post by: darrel on Jun 03, 2006 at 01:11 PM
Post by: hattori_hanzo on Jun 03, 2006 at 09:13 PM
sir hans i'm using a dividing network so wiring is not like that.
ah okey, ;) just trying to help. maganda kasi kung kahit 10watts lang kaya patakbuhin ang towers mo... anyways nice job bro...
Post by: darrel on Jun 03, 2006 at 11:16 PM
Post by: hattori_hanzo on Jun 03, 2006 at 11:21 PM
ilang watts po b ung pc speaker. dun ko kc una tnest ung mga speakers ko pinutol ko lng ung original na speaker. ung instant amp na.
what kind of media speakers? yung pang give away lang ba like yung brand na "speed" saka "colossus" nasa 0.5 wpc... ;D yun ba yung pinang test mo sa towers? kala ko pioneer mini compo?...
Post by: darrel on Jun 03, 2006 at 11:50 PM
Post by: hattori_hanzo on Jun 04, 2006 at 08:51 AM
yup un po. ung una ung pioneer amp went it blew up dun naman sa pc speakers test ko lng if tutunog. ngayon sakura po gamit k av5024 kso hindi pla ito dts, 5 channel lng inegrated na amp. left and right audio lang needed 5.1 na.
bro yan yata yung 5channel speakers pero walang 5.1 channel input eh, parang 502a ng konzert (5speakers out) pero walang input para sa DD at DTS. ang capable lang na nakita ko ngayon na may 5.1 ch input sa mga ganyang brand besides sakura is yung konzert 600R may remote pa... :)
Post by: darrel on Jun 05, 2006 at 09:10 AM
Post by: hattori_hanzo on Jun 05, 2006 at 09:32 AM
pero ok din po eto khit hindi dd or dts kc 7 ung speaker out nyapuwede mag 7.1 setup. hehehe wala nga .1 pero meron siya out for powered sub.
Bro yung out niya for powered sub yun yung .1, yun nga lang does it have a 5.1 ch in-put? other wise yung 7.1 speakers niya would only produce signals from the left / right input channels only. kasi it wont distribute independent dedicated signal channels like from the dolby D at DTS. iba pa rin kung fiber optic or may 5.1 channel input like the konzert 600R kung baga may expansion input siya hindi stereo lang. pwede yan sakura nakuha mo sa prologic. 4/ch, kasi yung prologic would only need 2/ch channels (L/R) input to produce multiple channels yung nga lang replicated from the input source (L/R). pero at least thats a good AVR for start up...
keep up the good work bro, sooner or later you'll have a very very good set up.... ;)
Post by: JojoD818 on Jun 05, 2006 at 01:14 PM
sana dumating ang araw na may DD or DTS na yan sakura and konzert amps (o meron na?). so far they are just deriving from left/right channels.
Post by: Brian_mico on Jun 05, 2006 at 01:28 PM
sana dumating ang araw na may DD or DTS na yan sakura and konzert amps (o meron na?). so far they are just deriving from left/right channels.
I'm using Konzert Av600r, its already have DD/DTS output from 5.1 analog input...
Post by: JojoD818 on Jun 05, 2006 at 01:36 PM
I'm using Konzert Av600r, its already have DD/DTS output from 5.1 analog input...
Ayan and maganda, dapat separate ang 5 channels.
So dapat may DD/DTS decoder yun dvd player right?
Post by: Brian_mico on Jun 05, 2006 at 01:45 PM
Ayan and maganda, dapat separate ang 5 channels.
So dapat may DD/DTS decoder yun dvd player right?
yes, DD/DTS decoder dapat ang dvd player.
Post by: darrel on Jun 05, 2006 at 02:02 PM
Post by: JojoD818 on Jun 05, 2006 at 02:11 PM
Yan ang gusto ko bro. Dati kasi I was planning on building a 5-channel tubed gainclone for HT kaso wala ako makita 5-ganged pot para sa volume. ayan tuloy 2.1 pa din ako. ;D ;D ;D
cheers
Post by: Brian_mico on Jun 05, 2006 at 04:10 PM
ilang watts po ung konzert 600r meron po b ito a/b selector or tlagang 5.1 lng?. meron na prologic av5024 just push the surround button for sr,sl, and c speakers to activate.
based sa specs 150wrms X 5, walang a/b seclector 5.1 output lang
Post by: Brian_mico on Jun 05, 2006 at 04:11 PM
Brian,
Yan ang gusto ko bro. Dati kasi I was planning on building a 5-channel tubed gainclone for HT kaso wala ako makita 5-ganged pot para sa volume. ayan tuloy 2.1 pa din ako. ;D ;D ;D
cheers
kahit naka 2.1 ka lang, still dream ko pa rin yung audio set-up mo..
Post by: markmlists on Jun 05, 2006 at 04:36 PM
When designing a 2 way speaker, ano ang tamang sensitivity ng tweeter pag ang lf driver ay 86db?
94db ba for hf? As i understand, hindi sila puedeng parehong 86db. If so, ano ang dapat? :)
Salamat.
Post by: darrel on Jun 05, 2006 at 07:54 PM
ung surround ko 2 way un, i used 1 daiichi pro-pw-65ds 6" woofer and ultra ut-108 tweeter used a capacitor
instead of a dividing network para makamura. ok ang tunog.
ang important is that ung tweeter nagcocompliment sa woofer. [as the master told me (JOJOD)]
just my .2 pesoses
Post by: markmlists on Jun 05, 2006 at 11:27 PM
mayron kayang general rule dito? kung ang woofer ay 86db ilang db dapat ang Tweeter?
sana may general rule at least, kasi science ang driver integration.
congrats on your diy speaker and im sure maganda ito tumunog. btw, ano pala ang sensitivity ng woofer and tweeter na ginamit mo?
Post by: JojoD818 on Jun 06, 2006 at 02:53 AM
when I was a small boy (hindi pa ganun katagal yun ha!), my brothers who were into (like most of us here) building their own speaker systems. after choosing their drivers for a two-way system they hit a problem much like what you are asking now. so what they did was solicit the help of my father and uncle who were also into audio during their time. what they had in mind was to build a passive crossover that would render the flatest response from the woofer and the tweeter, now since the tweeter has (almost always) the higher sensitivity they had to attenuate it so it won't overpower the woofer or something in those lines.
from what I remember, they used a signal generator, an oscilloscope, and something that resembles a mic and put the finished speaker inside a bigger box laced with foam and then seal it for testing. I don't know where they got that idea for testing speakers but that speaker sure sounded great. :)
oh well, I guess now we have better tools and formulas for determining that. ;D ;D ;D
cheers
Post by: hattori_hanzo on Jun 06, 2006 at 09:00 AM
-----------------(- ) tweeter (+)-----2.2mf 50V capacitor-----bulb------
Post by: JojoD818 on Jun 06, 2006 at 11:31 AM
Post by: markmlists on Jun 06, 2006 at 04:23 PM
Jo, family tradition pala ang audio sa inyo. 2 Generations of audio diy'ers / tweakers . :)
Post by: JojoD818 on Jun 06, 2006 at 06:01 PM
Thanks Sirs. :)
Jo, family tradition pala ang audio sa inyo. 2 Generations of audio diy'ers / tweakers . :)
Thanks sir, actually I belong to the 3rd gen already. I just wonder if I would appreciate what my grandfather calls "music" during pre Fil-Jap war. ::)
Post by: aHobbit on Jun 07, 2006 at 11:00 AM
I dont know if this is true, but some put in line a small bulb together with a 2.2 mf 50v capacitor. The bulb is similar to those of a christmass tree lights. someone told me that this is to cut off shear brightness from tweeter. due to the inherit high sensitivity. some even told me it produces a balanced spectrum between the tweeters and mid woofer...
-----------------(- ) tweeter (+)-----2.2mf 50V capacitor-----bulb------
it is just a plain resistor. If tweeter has high sensitivity and woofer low sensitivity, the best balancer is to use a resistor and cut-off the freq of tweeter at high-roll off of the big driver. With resistor added, the total impedance of tweeter becomes so large (if resistor needed to equalize is high) that from the amp point of view, the load that it can see is only the big driver. This is typically being done if you are into full range speakers which is helped by helper tweeter. Thus, there is no phase shift in the full range driver.
Post by: Brian_mico on Jun 09, 2006 at 10:30 AM
just like to share my 90% done 5.0 speakers this only cost me 9K materials and labor = (for capentry of the box)
maybe 10k if fully finished
5 tweeters
ULTRA UT 108
2 Midrange
Crystal Mobile Audio CS 504M
8 Woofers Daiichi
2 6" PRO-PW-65D
2 6" PRO-PW-65DS
4 8" PRO-PW-90D
Bro, a friend is asking favor for this, can you indicate the price of these spkrs of yours, he's also planning to build a DIY floor stander that will be use for audio.. thanks
Post by: darrel on Jun 10, 2006 at 12:51 AM
ULTRA UT 108
200php each add 10php each for capacitor nabili ko to sa penny lane sa 600 evangelista cor. g. puyat
2 Midrange
Crystal Mobile Audio CS 504M
430php. sa megamall ko to nbili daiichi showroom. wala ako mahanp nito sa raon.
8 Woofers Daiichi
2 6" PRO-PW-65D 450 daiichi showroom megamall
2 6" PRO-PW-65DS 350 lindrix 611 stall 7-a raon shopping center
4 8" PRO-PW-90D 460 cherubim 674 ronquillo
extras.
2 dividing network. 275php each miyama 300watts. deeco
Post by: JojoD818 on Jun 11, 2006 at 03:32 PM
Anyone know where I can find flared port tubes? I need 2pcs 4" diameter opening.
Also if anyone has any info on where I can find those black neoprene tapes, I need 'em for sealing my sub plateamp to the sub box.
Thanks!
Post by: Weng! on Jun 12, 2006 at 01:53 AM
Yo!
Anyone know where I can find flared port tubes? I need 2pcs 4" diameter opening.
Also if anyone has any info on where I can find those black neoprene tapes, I need 'em for sealing my sub plateamp to the sub box.
Thanks!
u can buy them sa banawe sa mga car audio shops but the price is steep. it's about 1k per pair ba yon or each.
better diy nalang as u are a good diy'er. check this site:
http://www.users.bigpond.com/bcolliso/flares-25mm.htm
Post by: hattori_hanzo on Jun 12, 2006 at 09:27 AM
u can buy them sa banawe sa mga car audio shops but the price is steep. it's about 1k per pair ba yon or each.
better diy nalang as u are a good diy'er. check this site:
http://www.users.bigpond.com/bcolliso/flares-25mm.htm
how bout the neoprene tapes? any ideas where we can buy?.... thanks
Post by: Weng! on Jun 12, 2006 at 09:41 AM
i do not know where to get it.
how about using a thin rubber mat usually found in mr quickie or shoe repair shops. they can be cut to to any form and should make a good seal.
sir jojoD,
natapos na ba ang hi-end plate amp design mo?
Post by: JojoD818 on Jun 12, 2006 at 11:50 AM
sir jojoD,
natapos na ba ang hi-end plate amp design mo?
plate na lang ang kulang. but it is already working in it's skeletal state. that's why I'm looking for box parts, I'll try looking in banawe next week.
marine ply ang gagamitin ko since yan ang meron sa bodega, btw, 4th order bandpass box design so I do need a huge port.
Post by: Brian_mico on Jun 13, 2006 at 04:07 PM
5 tweeters
ULTRA UT 108
200php each add 10php each for capacitor nabili ko to sa penny lane sa 600 evangelista cor. g. puyat
2 Midrange
Crystal Mobile Audio CS 504M
430php. sa megamall ko to nbili daiichi showroom. wala ako mahanp nito sa raon.
8 Woofers Daiichi
2 6" PRO-PW-65D 450 daiichi showroom megamall
2 6" PRO-PW-65DS 350 lindrix 611 stall 7-a raon shopping center
4 8" PRO-PW-90D 460 cherubim 674 ronquillo
extras.
2 dividing network. 275php each miyama 300watts. deeco
darrel, bro thanks sa price list
Post by: darrel on Jun 13, 2006 at 06:28 PM
Post by: hattori_hanzo on Jun 16, 2006 at 07:47 PM
eto magandang i-DIY hehehe!
(http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d16/hanns76/BP2000.jpg)
someday I might, magkano kaya aabutin to... but for now, unahin ko muna i tweak yung DTX 4.15 ko to JBL GTO...
Post by: darrel on Jun 16, 2006 at 09:17 PM
Post by: hattori_hanzo on Jun 16, 2006 at 09:28 PM
retailed in 1995 500 usd ngaion meron ngbebenta nito 1500 usd each pa. parang ginto.
ang mahal ano? ang sarap sana gayahin ng design ;D ;D ;D
Post by: mixx on Jun 17, 2006 at 02:17 AM
Post by: darrel on Jun 17, 2006 at 05:03 PM
4 midrange 430x4=1720
2 tweeters 200x2=400
1 sub 2200x1=2200
2 dividing network 275x2=550
1 LPF 240x1=240
1 mdf 950x2=1900
bindingpost 50x1=50
wires etc. 100x1=100
screws 200x1=200
total 7360
e2 link for specs.
http://ecoustics.audioreview.com/cat/audioreview/speakers/floorstanding-speakers/definitive-technology/PRD_120912_1594crx.aspx
http://www.definitivetech.com/loudspeakers/powertower/bp2000.html
http://cplist.citypages.com/adimgs/c9a70a64fa8becd25ff7d1c412f71b90BP2000%20Front.jpg
sir mixx
panay pang PA ung plans dun eh but thanx for the link i'm looking for that site for some time kc i'm planning to build new sub enclosure pero bili muna ko bass shaker.
Post by: hattori_hanzo on Jun 17, 2006 at 05:12 PM
sir hans kaya natin gayahin un pero kalangan natin ng powers ni sir jojod for the electronics. pero kung nagtitpid tau eto esimate ko.
4 midrange 430x4=1720
2 tweeters 200x2=400
1 sub 2200x1=2200
2 dividing network 275x2=550
1 LPF 240x1=240
1 mdf 950x2=1900
bindingpost 50x1=50
wires etc. 100x1=100
screws 200x1=200
total 7360
e2 link for specs.
http://ecoustics.audioreview.com/cat/audioreview/speakers/floorstanding-speakers/definitive-technology/PRD_120912_1594crx.aspx
http://www.definitivetech.com/loudspeakers/powertower/bp2000.html
http://cplist.citypages.com/adimgs/c9a70a64fa8becd25ff7d1c412f71b90BP2000%20Front.jpg
sir mixx
panay pang PA ung plans dun eh but thanx for the link i'm looking for that site for some time kc i'm planning to build new sub enclosure pero bili muna ko bass shaker.
sir darrel,
more or less aabutin pala ng mga 15k. wala pang center ang surrounds, but still good compare sa orig price ng def tech hehehe! mapag ipunan nga...
btw nabili ko na yung JBL GTO 1502, ready for intallation na lang, will have pics as soon as installed na...
Post by: Brian_mico on Jun 19, 2006 at 10:15 AM
congrats hans.. sana makita at madinig ka yan ng personal ;D ;D
Post by: Brian_mico on Jun 19, 2006 at 10:16 AM
congrats hans.. sana makita at madinig ka yan ng personal ;D ;D
oppps correction ..
congrats hans.. sana makita at madinig ko yan ng personal ;D ;D
Post by: JojoD818 on Jun 20, 2006 at 12:22 PM
btw nabili ko na yung JBL GTO 1502, ready for intallation na lang, will have pics as soon as installed na...
aba dapat kinakabit na yan at ng nadidinig na. :o
tapos review ha.... ;)
Post by: hattori_hanzo on Jun 20, 2006 at 12:52 PM
aba dapat kinakabit na yan at ng nadidinig na. :o
tapos review ha.... ;)
malapit na sir jojod, ill be posting the pics soon. ang bigat pala nito... :)
Post by: JojoD818 on Jun 20, 2006 at 04:09 PM
kung akin yan hindi na yan aabutin ng alikabok nakakabit na yan. ;D ;D ;D
Post by: Brian_mico on Jun 21, 2006 at 05:32 PM
OO NGA ang TAGALLLLLLLL ... ;D ;D ;D
Post by: hattori_hanzo on Jun 21, 2006 at 07:59 PM
Post by: JojoD818 on Jun 21, 2006 at 10:28 PM
darn! hindi fit yung JBL sa mounting, ipapamodify ko pa yung box...
yun JBL ang dalhin mo sa machine shop para mabawasan :P :P :P
ANG TAGAL TALAGA! ;D ;D ;D
Post by: hattori_hanzo on Jun 22, 2006 at 12:18 AM
yun JBL ang dalhin mo sa machine shop para mabawasan :P :P :P
ANG TAGAL TALAGA! ;D ;D ;D
dagdag gastos hay! magkano naman kaya singil ng craftsman nito, malaki pala yung frame ng JBL makapal unlike sa DTX stamped metal lang, etong JBL alloy yata to eh, ang laki pa ng magnet...
Post by: Toquero on Jun 22, 2006 at 07:06 AM
dagdag gastos hay! magkano naman kaya singil ng craftsman nito, malaki pala yung frame ng JBL makapal unlike sa DTX stamped metal lang, etong JBL alloy yata to eh, ang laki pa ng magnet...
Hindi ba kaya ng wood file ? ???... yung sa dynaquest ko kasi ,yung 3 edges lang ang masikip nakuha ko lang sa wood file ;D
Post by: hattori_hanzo on Jun 22, 2006 at 09:20 AM
Hindi ba kaya ng wood file ? ???... yung sa dynaquest ko kasi ,yung 3 edges lang ang masikip nakuha ko lang sa wood file ;D
wala kasi akong wood file saka baka masira ko yung asthetics nung box (vinyl cover), papagawa ko nalang sa expert craftsman, yung sa mounting ng DTX pag tnry ko i fit lahat masikip. eh hindi ko alam kung ano ang babawasan. baka pag ako gumawa hindi ko ma center... :-\
Post by: Handyman on Jun 22, 2006 at 09:01 PM
wala kasi akong wood file saka baka masira ko yung asthetics nung box (vinyl cover), papagawa ko nalang sa expert craftsman, yung sa mounting ng DTX pag tnry ko i fit lahat masikip. eh hindi ko alam kung ano ang babawasan. baka pag ako gumawa hindi ko ma center... :-\
sir, baka makatulong...
yung box ang bawasan mo, kaya ng wood rasp yan (wood file)....mark mo muna yung dapat mong bawasan, tanggalin mo muna yung vinyl na dapat tanggalin using blade cutter para malinis. tapos i-file mo na..mas mabilis kung wood rasp ang gagamitin mo.
Post by: hattori_hanzo on Jun 22, 2006 at 09:44 PM
sir, baka makatulong...
yung box ang bawasan mo, kaya ng wood rasp yan (wood file)....mark mo muna yung dapat mong bawasan, tanggalin mo muna yung vinyl na dapat tanggalin using blade cutter para malinis. tapos i-file mo na..mas mabilis kung wood rasp ang gagamitin mo.
thanks sir handyman, pinagawa ko nalang sa craftsman, baka masira ko pa eh. right now nasa kanila na yung box. by next week makukuha ko na daw. sana okey ang lahat....
Post by: aHobbit on Jun 23, 2006 at 10:31 AM
wala kasi akong wood file saka baka masira ko yung asthetics nung box (vinyl cover), papagawa ko nalang sa expert craftsman, yung sa mounting ng DTX pag tnry ko i fit lahat masikip. eh hindi ko alam kung ano ang babawasan. baka pag ako gumawa hindi ko ma center... :-\
may metal file ka?
kikilin mo na lang yung JBL para magkasya, tago naman siya, di tulad ng box ;D
Post by: JojoD818 on Jun 23, 2006 at 10:40 AM
may metal file ka?
kikilin mo na lang yung JBL para magkasya, tago naman siya, di tulad ng box ;D
My thoughts exactly!
;D ;D ;D
Joke lang Hans - ANG TAGAL TALAGA! ;D ;D ;D
Post by: hattori_hanzo on Jun 23, 2006 at 01:11 PM
tapos pumalpak ano? yari ang DTX sub ko :P
Post by: Brian_mico on Jun 23, 2006 at 04:17 PM
si hans, pag natapos mo yan baka pwede sched natin kung kailan pwede namin madinig yan ng personal ;D
Post by: hattori_hanzo on Jun 23, 2006 at 04:53 PM
si hans, pag natapos mo yan baka pwede sched natin kung kailan pwede namin madinig yan ng personal ;D
shure bro...
Post by: Brian_mico on Jun 27, 2006 at 06:43 PM
bro, ano balita.. ok na ba sub mo?
Post by: hattori_hanzo on Jun 27, 2006 at 08:47 PM
bro, ano balita.. ok na ba sub mo?
ala pa yung box bro hindi ko pa nakikita yung gumagawa...
Post by: JojoD818 on Jun 27, 2006 at 10:36 PM
ala pa yung box bro hindi ko pa nakikita yung gumagawa...
baka tinangay na! :P
siguro pag dating niyan eh hataw agad ang aabutin ng sub mo. ;D
Post by: darrel on Jul 19, 2006 at 10:59 AM
Post by: juneaki on Aug 24, 2006 at 09:31 AM
Post by: hattori_hanzo on Aug 24, 2006 at 09:44 AM
oks na yung sub and the performance are great. hindi ko lang ma update yung photos wala kasi yung digcam eh. i have discussed its performance sa DTX thead...
PS: kung may budget na kayo, advise ko lang go ahead with the tweaked DTX to JBL. ang ganda talga bukod sa asthetics improved talaga ang performance can be compared dun sa mga branded ones, tama sila boss JojoD at sir toquero maganda ang electrical properties nung JBL GTO compared dun sa DTX stock driver na compromised na dahil sa cost nung sub, kala ko nung una sablay pero nung na adjust ko na yung setting ayos! pag explosions talga explosions yung 15" parang may shockwave pa pag nag lalaro na yung cone... maraming salamat...
Post by: alexg on Aug 27, 2006 at 11:38 PM
The design was based on this: http://ca.geocities.com/gmilitano/Speakers/FE127E_SB/FE127E_SB.htm
The baffles would be 3/4" MDF that will be painted black, the sides of the speakers would be solid narra.
Here are narra slabs being planed (left over from our kitchen cabinets):
(http://www.filehigh.com/serve/19211/221624.jpg)
Here are the MDF baffles:
(http://www.filehigh.com/serve/19211/221625.jpg)
Here are the baffles glued and screwed to the braces:
(http://www.filehigh.com/serve/19211/221626.jpg)
The four Fostex FE127E will arrive on Thursday, I will post more pictures.
These speakers will be driven by two modified t-amps (bi-amped) and a tube pre-amp, creations of Master JojoD.
Post by: aHobbit on Aug 28, 2006 at 06:06 PM
I just started building a pair of small tower sealed bipole using the 4" Fostex FE127E.
The design was based on this: http://ca.geocities.com/gmilitano/Speakers/FE127E_SB/FE127E_SB.htm
The baffles would be 3/4" MDF that will be painted black, the sides of the speakers would be solid narra.
Here are narra slabs being planed (left over from our kitchen cabinets):
(http://www.filehigh.com/serve/19211/221624.jpg)
Here are the MDF baffles:
(http://www.filehigh.com/serve/19211/221625.jpg)
Here are the baffles glued and screwed to the braces:
(http://www.filehigh.com/serve/19211/221626.jpg)
The four Fostex FE127E will arrive on Thursday, I will post more pictures.
These speakers will be driven by two modified t-amps (bi-amped) and a tube pre-amp, creations of Master JojoD.
I cant see the pix, its typically firewall blocked on our setup. Is this the same reference full range project variation by dave (planet10) of diyaudio? I am considering the monopole because of footprint.
Post by: alexg on Aug 29, 2006 at 07:41 AM
I cant see the pix, its typically firewall blocked on our setup. Is this the same reference full range project variation by dave (planet10) of diyaudio? I am considering the monopole because of footprint.
No, it is the design by Gio G (gg of diyaudio), the one designed by dave is ported bipole.
The bipole will have the same footprint as the monopole, I did the bipole since it eliminates the need for a power grabbing BSC (baffle step compensation) circuit. Also, my new modded t-amps is designed for bi-amping.
The sealed bipole also have the advantage of improving the soundstage a lot for a small penalty on the separation, which is ok with the kind of music I play. I wanted to do the sealed enclosure since this would improve the midrange and the bass will be tighter. These drivers does not go well below 80Hz anyway, even on a ported enclosure, so I still need a subwoofer, so basically in my opinion, porting the enclosure does not offer any advantage.
Post by: bumblebee on Aug 29, 2006 at 08:09 AM
Post by: juneaki on Aug 29, 2006 at 08:24 AM
Post by: alexg on Aug 29, 2006 at 08:39 AM
Parang hindi.
The internal dimensions are exactly the same, same driver placement, same driver, except the construction sequence is different. On Gio's construction, he started with the speaker sides and he glued the rear baffle last. On my construction, I glued the front and rear baffle first and the sides last (this has something to do with the finish I wanted). So basically, it is the same design.
Post by: alexg on Aug 29, 2006 at 08:42 AM
I have a pair of Wharfedale Valdus 100 which is very old already and i'm using this with a T-amp. It is a bookshelf type speaker. Yung plastic laminate nya ay natatanggal na at yung mdf box ay malutong na. But the drivers are still ok. May konti akong alam sa carpentry at gusto kong gumawa na bagong speaker box para dito. Gusto ko yung parang tower enclosure na payat pero sealed. BTW ang sukat ng mga drivers ay 3/4" ang tweeters at 5" ang mid/woofers. Meron ba kayong maire-recommend na design at ano ang magandang materiales na gamitin? TIA.
What you can do is measure the internal volume of your current speaker cabinet, then try to design a tower cabinet with the same internal volume so the sound will not be much affected.
If you the T/S parameters of the drivers then you can download WinISD to compute for the speaker dimension.
The best material to use is MDF, apparently, it reduces resonance inside the box.
I will try to get the T/S parameter for your drivers, if I find it, I will give you WinISD's dimensions you can use.
Post by: bumblebee on Aug 29, 2006 at 08:46 AM
The internal dimensions are exactly the same, same driver placement, same driver, except the construction sequence is different. On Gio's construction, he started with the speaker sides and he glued the rear baffle last. On my construction, I glued the front and rear baffle first and the sides last (this has something to do with the finish I wanted). So basically, it is the same design.
Hi alexg. My reply was for aHobbit :) I thought his post was the last so I didn't quote. Sorry for the confusion.
Post by: juneaki on Aug 29, 2006 at 08:50 AM
What you can do is measure the internal volume of your current speaker cabinet, then try to design a tower cabinet with the same internal volume so the sound will not be much affected.
If you the T/S parameters of the drivers then you can download WinISD to compute for the speaker dimension.
The best material to use is MDF, apparently, it reduces resonance inside the box.
I will try to get the T/S parameter for your drivers, if I find it, I will give you WinISD's dimensions you can use.
Wow :o Thanks dude, will appreciate it very much ;)
Post by: alexg on Aug 29, 2006 at 09:16 AM
Hi alexg. My reply was for aHobbit :) I thought his post was the last so I didn't quote. Sorry for the confusion.
Oooops, I thought it was for me.... ;D
Post by: alexg on Aug 29, 2006 at 09:19 AM
Wow :o Thanks dude, will appreciate it very much ;)
Can you take pictures of your Valdus and measure the dimensions? Apparently, Wharfedale produced several versions of this model. ::)
Post by: juneaki on Aug 29, 2006 at 09:52 AM
Can you take pictures of your Valdus and measure the dimensions? Apparently, Wharfedale produced several versions of this model. ::)
Ok, will pm you pics of valdus 100 and the dimension as well. Thanks.
Post by: timn8ter on Aug 29, 2006 at 11:39 AM
Does this mean Ted was able to get the drivers for you? I haven't spoken to him lately. Your project looks excellent so far!
Post by: alexg on Aug 29, 2006 at 12:12 PM
I was able to reserve 4 Fostex drivers from Ted. I believe our purchasing department already made arrangement for payment and pickup.
Thanks.
Alex
Post by: alexg on Sep 01, 2006 at 08:25 PM
I just started building a pair of small tower sealed bipole using the 4" Fostex FE127E.
The design was based on this: http://ca.geocities.com/gmilitano/Speakers/FE127E_SB/FE127E_SB.htm
The baffles would be 3/4" MDF that will be painted black, the sides of the speakers would be solid narra.
Here are narra slabs being planed (left over from our kitchen cabinets):
(http://www.filehigh.com/serve/19211/221624.jpg)
Here are the MDF baffles:
(http://www.filehigh.com/serve/19211/221625.jpg)
Here are the baffles glued and screwed to the braces:
(http://www.filehigh.com/serve/19211/221626.jpg)
The four Fostex FE127E will arrive on Thursday, I will post more pictures.
These speakers will be driven by two modified t-amps (bi-amped) and a tube pre-amp, creations of Master JojoD.
Finally got my Fostex drivers today:
(http://www.filehigh.com/serve/19211/225050.jpg)
(http://www.filehigh.com/serve/19211/225054.jpg)
My dog trying to help so we can finish early, she would love to listen to Diana Krall and Lee Retinour on the new fostex speakers!
(http://www.filehigh.com/serve/19211/225051.jpg)
Fitted the speakers on the cabinets:
(http://www.filehigh.com/serve/19211/225433.jpg)
(http://www.filehigh.com/serve/19211/225434.jpg)
This afternoon, I connected the unfinished speakers (without the damping materials) to my two sonic impact t-amps. The sound is a bit brilliant and forward. Fostex users have said that I need to break-in the drivers for at least 100 hours. Compared to my AR Status 40, these DIY fostex without the break-in already sound better. Bass is tighter, but of course, it need a subwoofer for frequency lower than 80Hz.
Vocals is to die for.
Post by: obey on Jan 30, 2007 at 11:49 PM
http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=319931
Post by: timn8ter on Jan 31, 2007 at 01:28 AM
Congrats on your project!
It does my heart good to see that.
Post by: aHobbit on Jan 31, 2007 at 10:05 AM
...
This afternoon, I connected the unfinished speakers (without the damping materials) to my two sonic impact t-amps. The sound is a bit brilliant and forward. Fostex users have said that I need to break-in the drivers for at least 100 hours. Compared to my AR Status 40, these DIY fostex without the break-in already sound better. Bass is tighter, but of course, it need a subwoofer for frequency lower than 80Hz.
Vocals is to die for.
8) 8) 8)
Post by: rmpmla on Feb 01, 2007 at 07:18 AM
Fitted the speakers on the cabinets:
(http://www.filehigh.com/serve/19211/225433.jpg)
(http://www.filehigh.com/serve/19211/225434.jpg)
This afternoon, I connected the unfinished speakers (without the damping materials) to my two sonic impact t-amps. The sound is a bit brilliant and forward. Fostex users have said that I need to break-in the drivers for at least 100 hours. Compared to my AR Status 40, these DIY fostex without the break-in already sound better. Bass is tighter, but of course, it need a subwoofer for frequency lower than 80Hz.
Vocals is to die for.
ngayon ko lang uli nabuksan tong thread na ito. ;D
alexq, congrats
ganda naman :)
Post by: sammie on Apr 12, 2007 at 08:42 AM
I'm new here.
I'm in the process of building up my 2nd sub. May driver na ako (kaya lang lumang model ito, which i got it cheap). My problem is, gusto ko sana gawin active sub, but i don't know kung saan makakabili ng amp and other electronics na kailagan niya.
I've read somewhere, na sa raon may nabibili ready assembled amp with low filter (no sure). Available pa kaya ito?
Pwede kaya gamitin ang amp ng pang kotse? Pero, ang sabi pag ito ginamit ko malakas ang consumption ng electricty (lagot sa electric bill for sure).
Can anyone help? Thanks...
[/quote]
Post by: rustyns on Aug 15, 2007 at 04:20 PM
Ahh those lovely Tee nuts... when I hear those I remember this beautiful chinese lady at T. Mapua St. where I bought my Tee nuts.... ;D
On a technical note, woofers and subs installation benefit a lot using Tee nuts rather than just using machine/wood screws. The price is less than P5 per set (bolt & Tee nut).
Sir Jojo,
Saan itong T. Mapua st.? Meron ba sa raon nitong tee nuts?
Tnx
Post by: Jagner on Aug 16, 2007 at 07:10 PM
Sir Jojo,
Saan itong T. Mapua st.? Meron ba sa raon nitong tee nuts?
Tnx
Tee nuts are available in stores that sell screws, nuts and bolts. You can check Tu Suy Hardware or Screwmaster hardware, w/c I think are also along that street. It's just a short walk from the LRT station, along Recto. There are also branches of Screwmaster in Pasay (along EDSA, near the MRT Taft station) Cubao and San Juan.
Hope this helps.
Post by: rustyns on Aug 16, 2007 at 11:45 PM
Tee nuts are available in stores that sell screws, nuts and bolts. You can check Tu Suy Hardware or Screwmaster hardware, w/c I think are also along that street. It's just a short walk from the LRT station, along Recto. There are also branches of Screwmaster in Pasay (along EDSA, near the MRT Taft station) Cubao and San Juan.
Hope this helps.
tnx sir jagner
Post by: bodin on Aug 17, 2007 at 04:01 PM
What you can do is measure the internal volume of your current speaker cabinet, then try to design a tower cabinet with the same internal volume so the sound will not be much affected.
If you the T/S parameters of the drivers then you can download WinISD to compute for the speaker dimension.
The best material to use is MDF, apparently, it reduces resonance inside the box.
I will try to get the T/S parameter for your drivers, if I find it, I will give you WinISD's dimensions you can use.
mayron bang available subwoofer driver dito na may T/S parameters(Fs Vas and Qts)? Gusto ko sanang gumawa ng subwoofer for home theater. I have an old power amp to power it, to be connected to my receiver's sub-out. Preferably 6 or 8 ohms. Or yung dual voice coil para magagamit ko yung dalawang channel ng amp. Pero okey na rin kung single coil basta 6 or 8 ohms lang.
salamat po.
Post by: vapo_chill on Sep 02, 2007 at 03:48 AM
what i want is palitan yung baffle nia. currently its stands around 2.5 ft, natatakpan na sia ng bed. i have a small room, gusto taasan yung baffles to around 4ft. bahala na kung pwede sia lagyan ng passive radiator cone or just back ported. i want to do it sana myself pero la ako talaga time.
Anyone offering such service?
Post by: vapo_chill on Sep 02, 2007 at 04:08 AM
what i want is palitan yung baffle nia. currently its stands around 2.5 ft, natatakpan na sia ng bed. i have a small room, gusto taasan yung baffles to around 4ft. bahala na kung pwede sia lagyan ng passive radiator cone or just back ported. i want to do it sana myself pero la ako talaga time.
Anyone offering such service?
Post by: diy_master on Sep 02, 2007 at 06:45 PM
Post by: Bemo on Sep 04, 2007 at 09:59 AM
He is very good in this.
Please tell him you were referred by me.
Regards,
Bemo
Post by: NMM1 on Sep 05, 2007 at 05:34 PM
Post by: diy_master on Sep 15, 2007 at 06:17 PM
Post by: flashDB on Jan 17, 2008 at 12:20 PM
anung magandang platform/brand to start with?
Post by: Eggballs on Jan 17, 2008 at 02:28 PM
To start with, I suggest you state your sound preference, your music, indoor or outdoor use and if indoor, size ng listening area mo... though still so many factors yet to consider.
Post by: flashDB on Jan 17, 2008 at 03:07 PM
Post by: Eggballs on Jan 17, 2008 at 06:19 PM
IMO making DIY speakers are more expensive with no guaranteed satisfaction, mostly disappointment unless it's your hobby that you satisfy. Otherwise, go vintage speakers which will save you valuable amount of money while enjoying superb sound.
I f you want to push thru with your DIY, then visit first DAI ICHI showroom at Mega Mall to check local but good drivers. Goodluck.
Post by: flashDB on Jan 17, 2008 at 06:56 PM
can you recommend a good brand/speaker in dai-ichi? how about imported brand, is ther a shop where i can select speakers?
thanks!
Post by: eestrera on Jan 17, 2008 at 08:41 PM
If your trying this out for the first time, I suggest you do a lot of reading in the internet. There's a wealth of information you can learn. In addition, you may also want to try out using full range drivers. At least you don't have to worry about making crossovers. Its simple to do plus a lot of enclosure designs you can refer to from the web.
As for sources, try posting in the buy and sell section. Daichi also has several decent speakers. You can also check raon for some.
Post by: flashDB on Jan 17, 2008 at 08:47 PM
can you post the url of the buy&sell section. kanina ko pa hinahanap parang hindi ko makita... tnx
Post by: Eggballs on Jan 17, 2008 at 10:57 PM
Post by: @nk71 on Nov 06, 2008 at 03:25 PM
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc277/ank71/DSC00138.jpg)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc277/ank71/DSC00134.jpg)
thanks
Post by: ichillpill on Nov 07, 2008 at 10:31 AM
(http://i9.ebayimg.com/03/i/001/11/77/e062_1.JPG)
(http://i20.ebayimg.com/05/i/001/11/77/ec36_1.JPG)
I also made the GR-Research AV-2 as seen here
http://www.pbase.com/bruin/image/18789319 (http://www.pbase.com/bruin/image/18789319)
They are much better than the following speakers that I've listened to Klipsch RF2, B&W 603, JBL S series, Paradigm Studio 100's. The only difference between the AV2 and AV3 are that the AV3 are the floorstanding version and are 8ohms. I soldered the crossovers myself and had someone make the cabinets. Check out the website for more info http://www.gr-research.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=116 (http://www.gr-research.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=116)
There are a bunch of reviews on the internet
http://www.hometheaterspot.com/html/reviews/techreview.php?rev=68 (http://www.hometheaterspot.com/html/reviews/techreview.php?rev=68)
http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/index.php?topic=4786.0 (http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/index.php?topic=4786.0)
http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/index.php?topic=14062.0 (http://www.audiocircle.com/circles/index.php?topic=14062.0)
I am actually selling the AV3's actually in the for sale section.
If anyone has any interest in a DIY kit I highly recommend GR-Research. Danny Richie designed the kit and is the owner of GR-Research. He also took part with the Usher Tiny Dancer, and many AV123 speakers from www.av123.com (http://www.av123.com)
There are other kits availble but I ordered these as it fit my budget and rivaled commercial speakers <$2000. Because these are kits all parts are included from the drivers, capacitors, inductors, solder, internal speaker wire, wire rubber sheaths, schematic diagram of how to assemble the crossover, and the plans for the cabinets with exact specifications. All that is lacking is the wood :) www.audiocircle.com (http://www.audiocircle.com) has many DIY kits from different stores
Post by: ichillpill on Nov 09, 2008 at 02:33 PM
Old Living Room Setup
(http://photos-p.friendster.com/photos/80/09/72579008/1_437864431l.jpg)
Current Living Room Setup
(http://photos-p.friendster.com/photos/80/09/72579008/1_717858356l.jpg)
Old Bedroom setup
(http://photos-p.friendster.com/photos/80/09/72579008/1_756522248l.jpg)
Post by: markcrenz on Feb 06, 2010 at 12:39 PM
btw there are a lot of speaker-building sites over the www, it would help a lot if DIYers maximize the internet in gaining knowledge before embarking on speaker DIY (also applicable to any other topic).
Post by: saladmaster on Feb 06, 2010 at 03:17 PM
Post by: timber715 on Feb 06, 2010 at 10:06 PM
Post by: markcrenz on Feb 07, 2010 at 12:49 AM
Post by: timber715 on Feb 07, 2010 at 12:56 AM
Post by: blues on Feb 07, 2010 at 09:45 PM
Post by: oweidah on Feb 08, 2010 at 09:50 AM
my ultimate dynamite diy speaker im using drivers unit JBL L-123 woofer,Electro voice 1823m mid horn,meridian audax horn tweeter and siemens 2.2mf caps for the EV from jbl cap using for Audax horn and jensen big coil for the woofer sound great for me with vintage big baffles :o
eto ba yan? ::)
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a385/jron1997/th_Jr0n015.jpg)
Post by: blues on Feb 12, 2010 at 10:24 AM
Post by: ghomer on Feb 17, 2010 at 11:51 AM
need your help.. a simple subwoofer box for my 15" woofer. tuned at 39 to 60hz yung pang high freq aka tight pounding bass.
i asked pilyo regarding this, and he told me na yung enlcosure nya is subok na for low freq aka gapang bass. lamang. called it streetbass..
so ang aim ko po dito is pang musical.. i got this info also on his site about amp and enclosure.
yung kahit simple lang po.. sana may makatulong.. e'ttuned daw po iyon.. pano po???
Post by: Weng! on Feb 17, 2010 at 12:49 PM
mga kuya,, hehe
need your help.. a simple subwoofer box for my 15" woofer. tuned at 39 to 60hz yung pang high freq aka tight pounding bass.
i asked pilyo regarding this, and he told me na yung enlcosure nya is subok na for low freq aka gapang bass. lamang. called it streetbass..
so ang aim ko po dito is pang musical.. i got this info also on his site about amp and enclosure.
yung kahit simple lang po.. sana may makatulong.. e'ttuned daw po iyon.. pano po???
bro,
google winisd and download the free software. play around with it and in a few hours you should be able to model your own enclosure to your preferred tuning freq.
Post by: ghomer on Feb 17, 2010 at 02:18 PM
Post by: ATJr. on Aug 30, 2011 at 10:23 AM
just want to share my diy speakers which i built at around 1990....
4way system with diy'ed passive crossover
woofer is a Westwell 15 inches, low mid is a 12inch Hukotone, high mid is a 2inch soft cloth dome, and dome tweeters....
baffle dimensions are 44inches H x 21inches W x 17 inches deep...
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y155/leoman53/diy%20speaker/110830a-014.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y155/leoman53/diy%20speaker/110830a-015.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y155/leoman53/diy%20speaker/110830a-016.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y155/leoman53/diy%20speaker/110830a-017.jpg)
a look at the cross-over network at the back:
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y155/leoman53/diy%20speaker/110830a-018.jpg)
inside the cross-over box:
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y155/leoman53/diy%20speaker/110830a-019.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y155/leoman53/diy%20speaker/110830a-020.jpg)
Post by: qguy on Aug 30, 2011 at 01:47 PM
Thanks for bringing this up. Ever since I "built" (read as assembled) my subwoofer, I have been thinking about making a 2 or 2.5 way speakers. There are a lot of "proven" designs out there on Madisound and Diy Audio, its just a matter of putting my head and my poor wallet into it.
Post by: qguy on Aug 30, 2011 at 01:53 PM
;D :D ;D
hehehe, wrong type... 2 pcs of 6" sub dapat yun... ;D
Post by: hattori_hanzo on Sep 02, 2011 at 05:14 PM
time to give this thread a new lease on life: ;D
just want to share my diy speakers which i built at around 1990....
4way system with diy'ed passive crossover
woofer is a Westwell 15 inches, low mid is a 12inch Hukotone, high mid is a 2inch soft cloth dome, and dome tweeters....
baffle dimensions are 44inches H x 21inches W x 17 inches deep...
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y155/leoman53/diy%20speaker/110830a-014.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y155/leoman53/diy%20speaker/110830a-015.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y155/leoman53/diy%20speaker/110830a-016.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y155/leoman53/diy%20speaker/110830a-017.jpg)
a look at the cross-over network at the back:
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y155/leoman53/diy%20speaker/110830a-018.jpg)
inside the cross-over box:
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y155/leoman53/diy%20speaker/110830a-019.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y155/leoman53/diy%20speaker/110830a-020.jpg)
WOW pang new year to sir Tony!
Post by: ATJr. on Sep 02, 2011 at 06:24 PM
planning to cut the baffles in half and make a separate sub- woofer.....lot's of options....
Post by: rexFi on Sep 05, 2011 at 02:33 PM
(http://gallery.audioreview.com/data/audio/505/medium/JBL_LX22_Speakers_bookshelf_stereo_vintage_pair.jpg)
^ not the actual pic (pictyuran ko mamaya ;D)
I am planning on replacing the 6'5 woofers myself sira na kasi yung gilid butas na, pero tumutunog pa naman. Speaker A+B configuration ko ngayon hehe
Ano pong mga pointers na dapat ko malaman? Head's up kumbaga. ;D
Post by: ATJr. on Sep 05, 2011 at 04:56 PM
Post by: rexFi on Sep 06, 2011 at 09:20 AM
^napapalitan yung surrounds nyan.....kaysa bumile ka ng bago, pwede pa marepair yan....
Ito na sir ang hitsura ng mga woofer
(http://img594.imageshack.us/img594/503/09062011133.jpg)
(http://img813.imageshack.us/img813/3596/09062011134.jpg)
(http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/9008/09062011135.jpg)
Ok lang po palitan yan ? Post nalang pala ako sa Looking For section hehe, sana mura if ever.
Post by: qguy on Sep 06, 2011 at 09:37 AM
Post by: ATJr. on Sep 06, 2011 at 10:53 AM
Post by: rexFi on Sep 06, 2011 at 11:57 AM
Ok stalk ko lang esteh message ko po si sir anthony.
:)
Post by: rexFi on Nov 05, 2011 at 10:03 AM
Meron po kaya nagRerepair ng within Quezon City lang po? ;D
Ito na sir ang hitsura ng mga woofer
(http://img594.imageshack.us/img594/503/09062011133.jpg)
(http://img813.imageshack.us/img813/3596/09062011134.jpg)
(http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/9008/09062011135.jpg)
...
Post by: markcrenz on Nov 06, 2011 at 07:10 AM
Good day :)small speakers repair shops can replace the cone and edge at a very low cost, di nga lang malinis ang gawa. kung gusto mo malinis pagkagawa try http://www.pinoydvd.com/index.php/topic,33445.0.html mas malapit kaysa kina anthony
Meron po kaya nagRerepair ng within Quezon City lang po? ;D
Post by: rulesmeister on Mar 11, 2012 at 08:38 AM
Post by: ATJr. on Mar 11, 2012 at 08:51 AM
pwede ka magtanong sa binilhan mo nyan o di kaya sa megamall 5th floor, they can give you good advice.....
Post by: rulesmeister on Mar 11, 2012 at 09:02 AM
Post by: markcrenz on Mar 11, 2012 at 09:44 AM
Well not entirely DIY, but I'm trying to replace the tiny wiring (with a much higher gauge wire) inside the cabinet of my Euros6. I could not replace the wiring without removing the driver, problem is that the entire driver housing is glued tightly to the cabinet. How can I remove the drivers without damaging both the cabinet and the driver?bakit nga ba gusto mong palitan ng mas manipis na wire?
Post by: rulesmeister on Mar 11, 2012 at 09:51 AM
Post by: trinity1123 on Mar 11, 2012 at 10:27 AM
Ive seen the wiring as I was able to successfully removed the terminal posts at the back of the FS. I was surprised the wires are a lot thinner than my former Nextbase HTiB. I was contemplating on improving the sound of my Euros6 FS, first thing is to replace the wiring, then (probably) replace the crossover parts with better parts (i.e. auricap)
I think walang pagbabago yan sa sound,unless na yung mismong amp at source mo ang babaguhin.
Try some experiments,use your existing speaker,then gamitan mo ng ibang amp and compare mo ang tunog
Post by: ATJr. on Mar 11, 2012 at 11:31 AM
Post by: shrek7 on Mar 11, 2012 at 11:56 AM
Post by: ATJr. on Mar 11, 2012 at 12:49 PM
Post by: markcrenz on Mar 11, 2012 at 12:55 PM
hayaan mo sya, dun sya masaya.... :D opinion nya yon...... ;)
this about enjoyment, if doing that gives him satisfaction and fullfilment, then let him be...... ;D ;D ;D
Post by: ATJr. on Mar 11, 2012 at 02:17 PM
oo nga, kung saan ka masaya, pero ang sa akin paalala lang, pag kinalikot mo yung speakers mo na hindi naman sira, at hindi ka masayahan paano na? sige na nga payag na..... :D :D :D
Post by: CMac on Mar 11, 2012 at 02:27 PM
does fabricated sound have international standards?
how do speaker diy'ers tweak the sound, by ear?
Post by: trinity1123 on Mar 11, 2012 at 02:29 PM
sinabi ko yon? :D :D :D ;)HEHE One more thing sir,kung balak mong ibenta in the future,yung re-sell value nya,minsan kasi yung buyers ayaw sa mga items na kinalikot na hehehe
oo nga, kung saan ka masaya, pero ang sa akin paalala lang, pag kinalikot mo yung speakers mo na hindi naman sira, at hindi ka masayahan paano na? sige na nga payag na..... :D :D :D
Post by: ATJr. on Mar 11, 2012 at 02:42 PM
the topic makes me wonder about corp r&d versus individual diy. if the single diy'er can claim his work sounds better, then the research group should be totally eliminated in the development and manufacturing equation. if good sound is dependent on one's subjective perception, then r&d is almost negligible.
does fabricated sound have international standards?
how do speaker diy'ers tweak the sound, by ear?
ang accepted standards ay dapat flat ang response from say 60 to 15khz....pero mahirap ito, ang impedance kasi ng speaker hindi naman constant with frequency.....an 8 ohm speaker is not 8 ohms all thruout it response spectrum......
ang speaker sana ang refference point mo para masukat ang program material mo....ngayon pag binago mo yan base sa gusto mong tunog sa isang source mo na cd halimbawa...
paano na pag napalitan yung cd, hindi naman iyon at iyon lang na cd ang pakikinggan mo....e di kalikot ka na naman.....so me potential yan na maging tanggal kabit...tanggal kabit, hanggang ma fraustrate ka at ibenta mo......me mga alam akong kwento na ganyan dito, nilagyan pa kuno ng magic choke, pero nauwi rin sa bentahan...
hindi naman sa nanghihimasok ako, kaya lang, sa tingin ko mas mainam na magbuo ng isa pang speaker system para me variety....
me mga kilala ako hindi lang isa ang system sa bahay, more than 4 pa nga, mula sala hanggang kitchen area me stereo, para kung gusto ng ibang putahe, madali na....
Post by: rulesmeister on Mar 11, 2012 at 05:52 PM
I also implied I probably (or might) replace some x'over parts (see the difference). I was just stunned by how tiny the wires were, so I think I had to rewire.
Post by: ATJr. on Mar 11, 2012 at 06:44 PM
you are probably trying to replace short lengths of #20 or #22 wires.....
but if you must, contact dai-ichi at megamall and ask them, they should be able to help you....
or abang-abang ka lang, merong sasagot ng tanong mo sa pagbaklas ng speaker system mo...
Post by: shrek7 on Mar 12, 2012 at 06:15 AM
My question is as simple as this: How can I remove the glued drivers from the cabinet without destroying both the cabinet and the driver? The answers I got are relatively OT, while some are trying to flame-bait as if they knew me (Well I havent sold anything here in PDVD not even a tiny plug, much more sell a floor stander). If you knew someone who does that then pls dont stereotype everyone that they will follow the same path.brader, yung euros6 ko kasi eh akala ko eh naka glue nung una kong tinanggal yung driver, pero konting kalikot lang ng flat na screw driver eh natanggal na sya, try mong hatakin dahan dahan or tungkabin mong dahan dahan. sobrang batangenyo yta ang pagkakasabi ko. ;D okay lang na palitan mo ng wires na much thicker, pero mukhang di advisable na palitan ng crossover, kung cross over parts eh okay lang, kaso masyadong malaki ang nakalagay na caps sa woofer and mid drivers, 20uf plus. anyway, madami na kasing gumawa nyan, sorry if na-stereotype ka bro, matatanda na kasi yung karamihan ng tao dito sa pdvd kaya napagdaanan na nila yan. kadalasan kasi eh ganun ang nangyayari, naibebenta din, pero di ko sinasabi na ibebenta mo, malaki lang yung chances na mangyari yun especially kapag may mga taong manghawa sayo ng SARS, pero nasasayo yan, si sir Tony T kasi eh kaydami dami ng speakers na narinig at kaydami dami ng amp na ginawa, pero he still prefers his unmodified Euros 6 because he is satisfied with the sound it produces. kaya nga ang dami ko ng naibenta dahil mayat mayaeh kalikot ako ng kalikot, at the end, i prefer speakers without cross over.
I also implied I probably (or might) replace some x'over parts (see the difference). I was just stunned by how tiny the wires were, so I think I had to rewire.
Post by: shrek7 on Mar 12, 2012 at 06:17 AM
^di ka ba nalugi nung ibinenta mo? nabawi mo ba yung ginastos?di naman lugi..... luging lugi lang! :'(
Post by: rulesmeister on Mar 12, 2012 at 06:46 AM
Regarding the caps of the x'over, I'll check 1st what I can do (dont worry I worked for almost a decade sa Semicon Burn-in test for Military/DOD & Medical, I knew electronic parts like I know myself). I probably will replace those parts with same/similar values but of better quality. You probably replaced those caps with a much higher value therefore changing the characteristics of the x'over thats out of the frequency range of the driver(s).
Post by: JojoD818 on Mar 12, 2012 at 07:26 AM
Ok many thanks for the reply. I'll try all over again the next weekend. It made no sense kasi for me that the internal wirings inside the cabinet were small while we used a much thicker wire from the Onkyo to the speakers.
The electrical "sense" is that the terminal post is your "junction" point. Using a thicker wire from your Onkyo to this "junction" makes all the sense, "electrically speaking" since you don't want any losses between those points.
Quote
If maliliit lang din nman ang wires from the terminal post to the x'over/drivers then there's no point in buying a thick wire for the AVR to speaker.
Like I said sir, you would want the least resistive connection between these points. Of course there is nothing wrong with replacing the wires inside the box, been there, done that too and it's completely understandable. But please do bear in mind that those Euros are for home hifi, it's not likely to take 5Amps from an amp all day long so the existing wires are already up to the task.
At the end of the day, it's always your call.
Quote
Regarding the caps of the x'over, I'll check 1st what I can do (dont worry I worked for almost a decade sa Semicon Burn-in test for Military/DOD & Medical, I knew electronic parts like I know myself). I probably will replace those parts with same/similar values but of better quality. You probably replaced those caps with a much higher value therefore changing the characteristics of the x'over thats out of the frequency range of the driver(s).
Good for you. Good luck to you then.
Post by: JojoD818 on Mar 12, 2012 at 07:35 AM
brader, yung euros6 ko kasi eh akala ko eh naka glue nung una kong tinanggal yung driver, pero konting kalikot lang ng flat na screw driver eh natanggal na sya, try mong hatakin dahan dahan or tungkabin mong dahan dahan. sobrang batangenyo yta ang pagkakasabi ko. ;D okay lang na palitan mo ng wires na much thicker, pero mukhang di advisable na palitan ng crossover, kung cross over parts eh okay lang, kaso masyadong malaki ang nakalagay na caps sa woofer and mid drivers, 20uf plus. anyway, madami na kasing gumawa nyan, sorry if na-stereotype ka bro, matatanda na kasi yung karamihan ng tao dito sa pdvd kaya napagdaanan na nila yan. kadalasan kasi eh ganun ang nangyayari, naibebenta din, pero di ko sinasabi na ibebenta mo, malaki lang yung chances na mangyari yun especially kapag may mga taong manghawa sayo ng SARS, pero nasasayo yan, si sir Tony T kasi eh kaydami dami ng speakers na narinig at kaydami dami ng amp na ginawa, pero he still prefers his unmodified Euros 6 because he is satisfied with the sound it produces. kaya nga ang dami ko ng naibenta dahil mayat mayaeh kalikot ako ng kalikot, at the end, i prefer speakers without cross over.
oo nga sir, matatanda na kasi sila eh... :D :D :D
sorry OT, can't help it... ;D ;D ;D
Post by: ATJr. on Mar 12, 2012 at 07:36 AM
Quote
I worked for almost a decade sa Semicon Burn-in test for Military/DOD & Medical, I knew electronic parts like I know myself
i also worked in several semiconductor firms years ago, between 1972 to 1988....i used to manage electronics workshops....
i am also for better quality parts, but i install them on first builds....anyway, good luck to you.... ;)
Post by: ATJr. on Mar 12, 2012 at 07:43 AM
Quote
pero he still prefers his unmodified Euros 6 because he is satisfied with the sound it produces
i like the Eoros6 because price performance ratio is indeed very good, we have done listening tests with others speaker sets and indeed it can hold its own...... 8)
i have another speaker set, but that is another story...long diy process pa yan... ;D
Post by: markcrenz on Mar 12, 2012 at 08:41 AM
My question is as simple as this: How can I remove the glued drivers from the cabinet without destroying both the cabinet and the driver? The answers I got are relatively OT, while some are trying to flame-bait as if they knew me (Well I havent sold anything here in PDVD not even a tiny plug, much more sell a floor stander). If you knew someone who does that then pls dont stereotype everyone that they will follow the same path.your drivers are not glued. may dowels lang na mahigpit ang kapit yang moulding, but removable. insert and twist an old credit card or plastic ID between the plastic moulding and the baffle. pag umangat na use thicker objects, like a flat screwdriver as shrek said. with care you can remove it without damage. then makikita mo na ang screws that hold the drivers.
I also implied I probably (or might) replace some x'over parts (see the difference). I was just stunned by how tiny the wires were, so I think I had to rewire.
re wire thickness na-explain na ng batang-batang si jojo. anybody with enough knowledge on electricity knows that those wires are enough to handle the designed currents. i have yet to see speakers whose stock wires show signs of current overloads. ;)
Post by: shrek7 on Mar 12, 2012 at 06:56 PM
+1 ;D
i like the Eoros6 because price performance ratio is indeed very good, we have done listening tests with others speaker sets and indeed it can hold its own...... 8)
Hehehehe! What i mean is matanda na sa audio, pero BATA pa ang edad! Hehehe! ;D me and my stupid tongue!
oo nga sir, matatanda na kasi sila eh... :D :D :D
sorry OT, can't help it... ;D ;D ;D
Post by: jlester87 on Mar 12, 2012 at 07:53 PM
Well not entirely DIY, but I'm trying to replace the tiny wiring (with a much higher gauge wire) inside the cabinet of my Euros6. I could not replace the wiring without removing the driver, problem is that the entire driver housing is glued tightly to the cabinet. How can I remove the drivers without damaging both the cabinet and the driver?
Gaya ng sabi nila, hindi naka-glue yan sir, nabuksan ko na rin yung euros-6 ko dati ;D, ginawa ko binend ko yung isang dulo ng tinidor para kumawit then pinasok ko sa screw hole ng driver, both sides(dalawang tinidor), then saka ko hinatak outward...
-----------------------
Ako naman balak ko sa euros-6 ko gawing active 3way saka papalitan ng vifa xt-25 hahaha
Post by: ATJr. on Mar 13, 2012 at 06:24 AM
Post by: qguy on Mar 13, 2012 at 07:05 AM
the topic makes me wonder about corp r&d versus individual diy. if the single diy'er can claim his work sounds better, then the research group should be totally eliminated in the development and manufacturing equation. if good sound is dependent on one's subjective perception, then r&d is almost negligible.
does fabricated sound have international standards?
how do speaker diy'ers tweak the sound, by ear?
Post by: JoeyGS on Mar 13, 2012 at 09:40 AM
Tumatanda narin ako ng untiunti dito sa hobby na ito.
For the wires, I agree with Jojo that, electrically, the sizes are more than adequate to handle the power that the amp will deliver within the limits of your speaker. If you want to experiment on wires, from my experience, the replacement should be made on the quality and/or construction of the wire material. Just changing the size or gage is still 50/50 chance or no change at all. The objective is less resistance so that you get uncolored or undistorted signal (no more, no less). For me I do not agree in tuning your speakers from the wires, otherwise it gets very complicated. Of course, if you find that the wires are substandard or of bad quality, change it by all means. Wires should not contribute any effect or should not enhance or degrade the sound. As long as the wires are protected from EMI, RFI and other unwanted artifacts plus you have good wire material and construction.....ok ka na.
Haaaay wires pa lang ito......hehehehe. Ika nga nila, "Kaya nga hobby eh" :D :D :D
And siya nga pala...What's important in audio is the synergy or what they call matching of all the components from the source to the speakers including the wires and cables. One may work in one's system and may may not work in another. It really subjective because each person have different ears and different way of hearing. It may may be good sound to one but not to another. What's important is you enjoy the music and not enjoy the components ---- OR Listen to the music and not listen to the components...... ;)
I also implied I probably (or might) replace some x'over parts (see the difference). I was just stunned by how tiny the wires were, so I think I had to rewire.
Post by: ATJr. on Mar 13, 2012 at 09:48 AM
Quote
What's important is you enjoy the music and not enjoy the components ---- OR Listen to the music and not listen to the components......
my theory since day 1......but some people would like to learn the hard way and see for themselves, instead of listening to those who have been there before.... 8)
in this hobby, there are lots of hypes...... :D
Post by: JoeyGS on Mar 13, 2012 at 10:04 AM
Baka naman some of them really just want to experience the path that we took. On the other hand kasi, for me, nag-enjoy din ako sa mga discoveries from the mistakes and successes. Sometimes din, masarap yung nag-experiment and get the results, whether bad or good.
And, for that, our role naman is just to share our exeprience as part of our due diligence for the community. I just hope that they take it constructively. In the end, it's up to them....iba iba naman ang hilig eh.
my theory since day 1......but some people would like to learn the hard way and see for themselves, instead of listening to those who have been there before.... 8)
in this hobby, there are lots of hypes...... :D
Post by: markcrenz on Mar 13, 2012 at 10:14 AM
Yup, right.ingat lang dapat! i remember toasting an amp during my early speaker building/tweaking days, naikabit ko kasi capacitor across the crossover input instead of after the inductor. i literally saw sparks flying inside my amp! taught me to be a lot more careful.
Baka naman some of them really just want to experience the path that we took. On the other hand kasi, for me, nag-enjoy din ako sa mga discoveries from the mistakes and successes. Sometimes din, masarap yung nag-experiment and get the results, whether bad or good.
And, for that, our role naman is just to share our exeprience as part of our due diligence for the community. I just hope that they take it constructively. In the end, it's up to them....iba iba naman ang hilig eh.
Post by: CMac on Mar 13, 2012 at 01:17 PM
The DIY guy does not have a fix budget to improve the quality of the product, the R&D are working on a certain budget.very true. but what if the diy is made to be marketed and sold?
hehe i know it's no longer diy per se but you might get what i mean. :D
Post by: JoeyGS on Mar 13, 2012 at 02:03 PM
Kaya..... listen and respect the elders. Tiyak na may mapupulot kayo. I owe my achievements in my career to the seniors/elders to whom I have listen to (including ang lahat ng mga sermon nila) and took it constructively. Looking back ...... I made the right decision!
ingat lang dapat! i remember toasting an amp during my early speaker building/tweaking days, naikabit ko kasi capacitor across the crossover input instead of after the inductor. i literally saw sparks flying inside my amp! taught me to be a lot more careful.
Post by: qguy on Mar 14, 2012 at 07:39 AM
very true. but what if the diy is made to be marketed and sold?
hehe i know it's no longer diy per se but you might get what i mean. :D
Post by: markcrenz on Mar 14, 2012 at 07:42 AM
True..very truelangya ka joey ginawa mo pa 'kong elder! ;D
Kaya..... listen and respect the elders. Tiyak na may mapupulot kayo. I owe my achievements in my career to the seniors/elders to whom I have listen to (including ang lahat ng mga sermon nila) and took it constructively. Looking back ...... I made the right decision!
Post by: JojoD818 on Mar 14, 2012 at 07:50 AM
langya ka joey ginawa mo pa 'kong elder! ;D
good morning mga elderly braders! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Post by: markcrenz on Mar 14, 2012 at 08:13 AM
Post by: JojoD818 on Mar 14, 2012 at 08:20 AM
honored ba sa a/v shops ang senior citizen discount? makakuha na nga... ;D ;D ;D
food and transportation lang yata subsidized yan brader... ;D ;D ;D
Post by: ATJr. on Mar 14, 2012 at 08:34 AM
good morning mga elderly braders! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
gud morning din....lapit na kong maging dual citizen.... :D :D :D
Post by: JojoD818 on Mar 14, 2012 at 09:37 AM
gud morning din....lapit na kong maging dual citizen.... :D :D :D
ayos malapit ka na pala mag level up! :D :D :D
seriously, dami din privileges nun ah sayang din... ;)
Post by: JoeyGS on Mar 14, 2012 at 10:29 AM
langya ka joey ginawa mo pa 'kong elder! ;D
Post by: JoeyGS on Mar 14, 2012 at 10:31 AM
good morning mga elderly braders! ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Post by: JojoD818 on Mar 14, 2012 at 10:56 AM
Hahaha ..... malapit na akong mag-golden natal day. ;D ;D ;D
uy malapit ka na din pala mag super sayan level! ;D ;D ;D
Post by: markcrenz on Mar 14, 2012 at 02:22 PM
Hahahaha.... sorry for that..... what I meant was for those who are experienced..... na-shortcut kasi kaya "elder" yung nagamitbawal nga text speak eh... ;D
Post by: JoeyGS on Mar 15, 2012 at 11:14 AM
uy malapit ka na din pala mag super sayan level! ;D ;D ;D
Post by: JoeyGS on Mar 15, 2012 at 11:16 AM
bawal nga text speak eh... ;D
Post by: dvdspike on Mar 17, 2012 at 03:20 PM
Your welcome bro, good luck.
Any other speaker diyers here?
I have the drivers and crosssover and wirings for an old speaker I inherited. I would like to incorporate them into a mid sized bookshelf baffles. Please pm me if you could help me with this project? TIA :)
Post by: fantom_mayonaise on Apr 12, 2012 at 04:33 PM
Post by: JojoD818 on Apr 13, 2012 at 08:40 AM
I have the drivers and crosssover and wirings for an old speaker I inherited. I would like to incorporate them into a mid sized bookshelf baffles. Please pm me if you could help me with this project? TIA :)
Why don't you just post it here so that others can also see. Do you have pics of those drivers? Any specs about them would be helpful for sure.
Sorry for the late reply. :)
Post by: edrel sison on Apr 13, 2012 at 08:15 PM
Sorry for the late reply. :)
huli man daw at magaling nakukuha pa rin sa haplos... ;D
i probably would think that those old drivers does not have the original cabinet anymore or does it?
i would probably stick to the original box volume these were intended for. in the absence of driver's specifications it would be difficult to design a baffle that would suit them.
Post by: dvdspike on Apr 14, 2012 at 07:59 PM
Post by: dvdspike on Apr 14, 2012 at 08:02 PM
Why don't you just post it here so that others can also see. Do you have pics of those drivers? Any specs about them would be helpful for sure.
Sorry for the late reply. :)
Markcrenz got the speakers already hehe
Post by: Nelson de Leon on Apr 14, 2012 at 08:37 PM
Anybody here in the know in making DIY transmission baffles? Please share thanks!
Trod93 has made a couple of those. ;)
Post by: edrel sison on Apr 16, 2012 at 10:19 AM
Markcrenz got the speakers already hehewhat sort of drivers? what size?
Post by: markcrenz on Apr 16, 2012 at 10:33 AM
what sort of drivers? what size?infinity rs4b http://www.pinoydvd.com/index.php/topic,159769.msg1615396.html#msg1615396
Post by: edrel sison on Apr 17, 2012 at 12:57 PM
Post by: rulesmeister on Apr 19, 2012 at 08:27 AM
Here's the enlarged photo (under scope) of the Euros6 speaker wires that I had replaced with #10 wire. The tiny default wires has black pigmentation an indication of burnt copper. I intentionally placed a glass diode beside the wire to illustrate the comparision of the speaker wires to the 0.5mm diameter of the glass diode's wire.
The resulting sound was far way better than prior to wire replacement and I had more confident in the safety of my gears knowing that the wires could handle better electrical current...
Post by: ATJr. on Apr 19, 2012 at 08:41 AM
another good reference about wires and cables: http://www.navy-radio.com/manuals/0101-1xx/0101_110-06.pdf
all of these from our friend mr google.....http://www.google.com.ph/search?ix=uca&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=current+carrying+capacities+of+hookup+wires
if you feel you have more peace of mind using wires that can carry 33 amperes, then by all mean go ahead.... :D :D :D
Post by: rulesmeister on Apr 19, 2012 at 08:55 AM
Post by: JoeyGS on Apr 19, 2012 at 09:04 AM
This got me thinking....... How much current is the power amp delivering to the speakers?
Let's narrow down the limits, say,
1. For Solid State amps - 25 watts to 100 watts Class AB rated
2. For Tube amps - 10 watts to 50 watts Class A rated
If there is a guide, then we can optimize the size of the speaker wires without unnecessarily over sizing or under sizing.
Thanks
JoeyGS
here is a link, it shows carrent carrying capacities of hook-up wires.....http://electriciantraining.tpub.com/14191/css/14191_71.htm
another good reference about wires and cables: http://www.navy-radio.com/manuals/0101-1xx/0101_110-06.pdf
all of these from our friend mr google.....http://www.google.com.ph/search?ix=uca&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8&q=current+carrying+capacities+of+hookup+wires
if you feel you have more peace of mind using wires that can carry 33 amperes, then by all mean go ahead.... :D :D :D
Post by: ATJr. on Apr 19, 2012 at 10:42 AM
At least hindi nasusunog wires ko.. By the way, bakit sobrang big deal sayo kong papalitan ko wires ng speakers ko??? As Ive said earlier, maganda nman result and much safer pa... Cant you mind your own business??? I dont get it why people are so mindful of other people's activities...
because you posted in a public forum...... :D :D :D
no big deal to me really,and i don't care about your speakers, mine is also a Euros6, but others(Newbies) might think that using big wires is an ordinary casual thing, it is to them that i address my post to, not to you since you have already made up your mind.....they have other choices too.....
using bigger than nescessary wires should be a conscious decision after getting all the pertinent information are known, and not because someone told them that it is what they should do...... :D :D :D ;)
Post by: ATJr. on Apr 19, 2012 at 10:55 AM
Hi Tony,
This got me thinking....... How much current is the power amp delivering to the speakers?
Let's narrow down the limits, say,
1. For Solid State amps - 25 watts to 100 watts Class AB rated
2. For Tube amps - 10 watts to 50 watts Class A rated
If there is a guide, then we can optimize the size of the speaker wires without unnecessarily over sizing or under sizing.
Thanks
JoeyGS
to calculate current into an 8ohm load, I = sqrt(P/8)
so that at 10 watts into 8 ohms results in a current of 1.1 rms amperes;
25watts into 8 ohms results in a current of 1.77 rms amperes;
50 watts into 8 ohms results in a current of 2.5 amps;
100watts into 8ohms results in a current of 3.5 rms amps.....
it doesn't matter tube or ss, the cable has no idea as to type of amp it is connected to....
lenght also comes into consideration, longer runs need bigger size wires than shorter runs....
Post by: markcrenz on Apr 19, 2012 at 11:06 AM
(http://s1090.photobucket.com/albums/i367/rulesmeister/carlo.jpg)wha... sunog? san banda yang burnt part na yan? sa terminal, input ng crossover, crossover output to woofer o sa woofer terminal?
Here's the enlarged photo (under scope) of the Euros6 speaker wires that I had replaced with #10 wire. The tiny default wires has black pigmentation an indication of burnt copper. I intentionally placed a glass diode beside the wire to illustrate the comparision of the speaker wires to the 0.5mm diameter of the glass diode's wire.
The resulting sound was far way better than prior to wire replacement and I had more confident in the safety of my gears knowing that the wires could handle better electrical current...
Post by: ATJr. on Apr 19, 2012 at 11:10 AM
parang gusto ko tuloy buksan yung Euros6 ko, pero bakit pa, mahusay namang tumunog..... ;D :D ;)
Post by: rulesmeister on Apr 19, 2012 at 12:24 PM
Sunog po Sir ung wire na ikakabit sa terminal post sa likod... Ung Euros6 ko last Dec '11 ko lng binili, used sparingly (less than 1 hr/day) on weekdays, and on weekends 2 movies lang kc nagala din naman ako... Ung setting ko sa Onkyo is between -10db to 0db sa volume..
Post by: JoeyGS on Apr 19, 2012 at 12:50 PM
Thanks for the informative guide of determining the probable current to be expected in an amplifier/speaker set-up. At least I can have peace of mind and likewise knowing that what I spent for is value for money.
Post by: markcrenz on Apr 19, 2012 at 01:42 PM
@ markcrenz:manufacturer's fault. loose connection ang problem, not the wire size per se. may arcing kaya nasunog ang wire. but if replacing the wires entirely gives you satisfaction and peace of mind, well and good. having very curious hands, sabi ko sa sarili ko dati, "if it ain't broke, mod it!" ;D
Sunog po Sir ung wire na ikakabit sa terminal post sa likod... Ung Euros6 ko last Dec '11 ko lng binili, used sparingly (less than 1 hr/day) on weekdays, and on weekends 2 movies lang kc nagala din naman ako... Ung setting ko sa Onkyo is between -10db to 0db sa volume..
Post by: ATJr. on Apr 19, 2012 at 01:55 PM
manufacturer's fault. loose connection ang problem, not the wire size per se. may arcing kaya nasunog ang wire. but if replacing the wires entirely gives you satisfaction and peace of mind, well and good. having very curious hands, sabi ko sa sarili ko dati, "if it ain't broke, mod it!" ;D
pinagdaan ko na rin yan, ;D ;)
I bought mine in dec. 2010 and still going strong up to now, no desire to tamper with it.....me quality issues ang Dai-Ichi? calling on John, what's going on?
if ever, i will build my own speakers from the ground up......using silver wires, silver solder, polypropylene caps, the works..... ;D ;D ;D
Post by: dvdspike on Apr 21, 2012 at 04:18 PM
Post by: dvdspike on Apr 23, 2012 at 09:06 AM
Is there anybody in the house who does enclosures for Full Range drivers? TIA any referals or information will be appreciated.
Guess there ain't none eh? Thanks anyway! :o
Post by: Nelson de Leon on Apr 23, 2012 at 11:08 AM
Is there anybody in the house who does enclosures for Full Range drivers? TIA any referals or information will be appreciated.
TRod93. ;)
http://www.pinoydvd.com/index.php/topic,105064.330/topicseen.html#lastPost
Post by: dvdspike on Apr 23, 2012 at 08:08 PM
Post by: markcrenz on Apr 23, 2012 at 09:46 PM
Looks like he isn't interested PM him twice na yata. anyways thanks Sir Nelsonmay design plans ka na? patingnan ko sa pinagpagawaan ko ng sansui boxes. sya rin nag-repair ng infinitys
Post by: Nelson de Leon on Apr 24, 2012 at 12:46 AM
Looks like he isn't interested PM him twice na yata. anyways thanks Sir Nelson
He is seldom online. But may number siya. Anyway:
may design plans ka na? patingnan ko sa pinagpagawaan ko ng sansui boxes. sya rin nag-repair ng infinitys
Ayun oh. Masmadali. Or si MarcoPilyo din pala baka kaya ka niya entertain.
Post by: dvdspike on Apr 24, 2012 at 09:00 AM
may design plans ka na? patingnan ko sa pinagpagawaan ko ng sansui boxes. sya rin nag-repair ng infinitys
Thanks this is very helpful. The design basically one regular bass reflex enclosure and for the other a folded back one. An altenative din is an open type enclosure. I was really hoping AAudio could do this for me since impressed ako sa finish nila and have seen some of the enclosures they did before to other PDVD members, Just too bad they stopped doing this.
Will get in touch when the drivers arrive Sir!
Post by: Stark3 on Apr 26, 2012 at 03:43 PM
http://www.pinoydvd.com/index.php/topic,162110.0.html (http://www.pinoydvd.com/index.php/topic,162110.0.html)
Cheers!
Post by: agsmd793 on Oct 02, 2012 at 08:48 PM
(http://i50.photobucket.com/albums/f316/agsmd793/DSCN3633.jpg)
my first build! ;D
Post by: juneaki on May 09, 2013 at 08:15 AM
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/IMG_0158_zps8efc2d03.jpg) (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/juneaki/media/IMG_0158_zps8efc2d03.jpg.html)(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/IMG_0157_zps4184f2c0.jpg) (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/juneaki/media/IMG_0157_zps4184f2c0.jpg.html)
I'm planning to build enclosure such as this http://nuebeats.wordpress.com/fullrange-speaker-das-viech/ Since this is my first, i will use muna cheap available materials na nakatambak lang sa bahay. May mga plywood at plyboard na excess from house renovation, will check if enough to build this project.
Post by: juneaki on May 10, 2013 at 08:56 PM
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/IMG_0155_zpse83820e6.jpg) (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/juneaki/media/IMG_0155_zpse83820e6.jpg.html)
Started cutting the pieces.
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/IMG_0149_zpsa7381888.jpg) (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/juneaki/media/IMG_0149_zpsa7381888.jpg.html)(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/IMG_0151_zps720b022d.jpg) (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/juneaki/media/IMG_0151_zps720b022d.jpg.html)(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/IMG_0150_zps2fa4d07e.jpg) (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/juneaki/media/IMG_0150_zps2fa4d07e.jpg.html)
Assembling the speaker boxes.
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/IMG_0152_zps6f8e220d.jpg) (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/juneaki/media/IMG_0152_zps6f8e220d.jpg.html)(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/IMG_0154_zps844e6acc.jpg) (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/juneaki/media/IMG_0154_zps844e6acc.jpg.html)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/IMG_0153_zpsefd08857.jpg) (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/juneaki/media/IMG_0153_zpsefd08857.jpg.html)(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/IMG_0156_zpsa7dc5f34.jpg) (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/juneaki/media/IMG_0156_zpsa7dc5f34.jpg.html)
next time, the finish product.
Post by: audiojunkie on May 10, 2013 at 09:08 PM
Looking good..... 8) :o
Waiting for the next line of the build.. ;D
Post by: ndotcom on May 11, 2013 at 11:46 AM
Post by: ATJr. on May 11, 2013 at 11:55 AM
Post by: juneaki on May 11, 2013 at 12:20 PM
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/IMG_0163_zpsfe2e39ce.jpg)(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/IMG_0159_zps260b659c.jpg)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/IMG_0160_zps8773009d.jpg)(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/IMG_0161_zps0cf42ef2.jpg)
Post by: juneaki on May 11, 2013 at 12:35 PM
Konting finishing pa, then wood stain using red mahogany then ready na ito. BTW i just use a Yamaha CR 440 na vintage i just bought from vhinx for initial testing. Ipon ipon muna para sa tube amp ;D ;D
Post by: juneaki on May 12, 2013 at 03:41 PM
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/IMG_0172_zps4dffaae3.jpg)(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/IMG_0168_zps57a48730.jpg)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/IMG_0169_zps2a924fae.jpg)(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/IMG_0171_zps932d200e.jpg)
Enjoying now the music given by these beymas. Currently listening to Audiophile Voices using Marantz CD 6002 as source and Yamaha CR 440 Stereo Receiver to power the speakers. I want to try these speakers sana with a tube amp pero wala pa ako nun. :-[
Post by: ATJr. on May 12, 2013 at 06:01 PM
Quote
I want to try these speakers sana with a tube amp pero wala pa ako nun.
you can diy, kaya mo yan....Edrel sells kits.... :D
Post by: juneaki on May 12, 2013 at 06:17 PM
you can diy, kaya mo yan....Edrel sells kits.... :D
I dont have any background when it comes to electronics eh. Baka masayang lang. Unlike sa carpentry, karpintero ang tatay ko kaya kahit papaano may kaunti natutunan sa kanya. Can you recommend any reading materials for a newbie? Mag-aral muna bago sumabak.
Post by: romymartinez on May 18, 2013 at 12:48 AM
Post by: ATJr. on May 18, 2013 at 06:31 AM
I dont have any background when it comes to electronics eh. Baka masayang lang. Unlike sa carpentry, karpintero ang tatay ko kaya kahit papaano may kaunti natutunan sa kanya. Can you recommend any reading materials for a newbie? Mag-aral muna bago sumabak.
start by signing up a diyaudio.com then tambay ka sa tubes/valves boards.....http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubes-valves/
Post by: sound garden on May 19, 2013 at 12:21 PM
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m591/jclraven/05_15.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/jclraven/media/05_15.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m591/jclraven/05_14.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/jclraven/media/05_14.jpg.html)
(http://i1133.photobucket.com/albums/m591/jclraven/05_08.jpg) (http://s1133.photobucket.com/user/jclraven/media/05_08.jpg.html)
Post by: audiojunkie on May 19, 2013 at 12:46 PM
^ Nice... 8) Very creative..! ;D
Post by: yer2010 on May 21, 2013 at 07:52 AM
Thanks mga sirs. And here are my first completed DIY speakers.
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/IMG_0163_zpsfe2e39ce.jpg)(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/IMG_0159_zps260b659c.jpg)
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/IMG_0160_zps8773009d.jpg)(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/IMG_0161_zps0cf42ef2.jpg)
sir, baka naman pwedeng makahingi ng dimensions nitong full range speaker box eh? tnx.
me too, I've been building my speaker boxes for eternity since I haven't used up entirely my Cerwin Vega crossovers bought from eBay US for 2 and 3 ways speakers. my latest work was a 12" sub, with a Korean sub amp and a MarcoPilyo sub box, he heh.
cheers!
Post by: yer2010 on May 22, 2013 at 02:10 PM
Cheers!
Post by: audiojunkie on May 28, 2013 at 01:07 AM
Also, has anyone tried using those electronic crossovers from cars for your DIY speakers? Are they as durable as those of home audio crossovers?
Cheers!
What you mean by electronic... ::) Active X-over? If it matches to your home speakers, it makes no difference..... ;D
It's just common knowledge that car audio system uses lower impedance (8ohms also being used) and different shape of drivers to fit in compact space. Aside from that both are designed for music reproduction purposes. We have to note also that some speaker manufacturers also using 4 ohms drivers in their home speaker models. :)
Post by: ATJr. on May 28, 2013 at 03:44 AM
Also, has anyone tried using those electronic crossovers from cars for your DIY speakers? Are they as durable as those of home audio crossovers?
Cheers!
the car's interior volume is not that big, so 12 volts is fine, may not be the same for home use...but i have done a 2.1 system using similar circuits and turned out okey....YMMV....
Post by: yer2010 on May 28, 2013 at 06:53 AM
Post by: defcon3 on Jun 01, 2013 at 03:12 AM
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=340-513&FTR=wet%20look%20black&CFID=8977283&CFTOKEN=76718772
would appreciate any assistance/help from you guys....senks!
Post by: ATJr. on Jun 01, 2013 at 05:56 AM
Post by: qguy on Jun 01, 2013 at 07:47 AM
^pwede ka rin gumamit ng clear lacquer varnish, meron nyan na naka aerosol cans...
Post by: ATJr. on Jun 01, 2013 at 10:23 AM
Would'nt that add weight to cone ? I guess for larger woofers, there would not be any noticeable difference, but for smaller cones, baka magka effect.
apply it in thin layer....marami nang gumagawa nyan sa mga nagmomobile...
Post by: defcon3 on Jun 02, 2013 at 03:38 AM
hope someone can be able to give some tips also...thanks.. :)
(http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/j326/darwin0704/IMG_20130601_223047_zps9829f4c6.jpg) (http://s1080.photobucket.com/user/darwin0704/media/IMG_20130601_223047_zps9829f4c6.jpg.html)
(http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/j326/darwin0704/IMG_20130601_223026_zpsdfc923e1.jpg) (http://s1080.photobucket.com/user/darwin0704/media/IMG_20130601_223026_zpsdfc923e1.jpg.html)
Post by: ATJr. on Jun 02, 2013 at 06:16 AM
pwede mo rin na ipa recone para magmukhang bago...
Post by: corleone14 on Jun 03, 2013 at 03:33 PM
I am a newbie and is planning to setup a sound system preferably DTS good for listening music (though I watch videos a lot).
I have these speakers which were taken from a karaoke machine and I'm planning to have baffle fabricated and to use as front and rear speakers. I do not know the exact specification of these speaker but was told by my dad that they are 8 ohms and has RMS of 300 watts. If anyone can help thank you in advance.
Below are my enquiries regarding the speakers.
1. Do you know someone who can fabricate speaker baffles for my speakers, I think they are 10 inches?
2. Can I use these speakers for DTS and what would be recommended amplifier, receivers etc?
I think that would be it for now, I apologize in advance if It can be confusing or wrong choice of terms/words since I'm really a noob when it come to this.
Please see the pics below for reference of my speakers.
(https://2qassw.blu.livefilestore.com/y2p2ue9h2MkcP6mEydKNzpQHawZLBJHkKWB74P-4jacuhV8JW10PU1CydzF9-MUK7rBNL0tonPLkCrGT-MGlPlibjiqg4DbJGeclkHLhMwLYK9wDe8xpT_Qom9sUnN_asf4/IMG_0824.JPG?psid=1)
(https://2qdhjw.blu.livefilestore.com/y2pe7Rls8P1Ulh7Eh81g9_gaSLv7TRD2CDg2zsPlPSIt1IDVDokEzlKRCzfgiiMQGIvD4G7HWZV7XR7UFlnmIWiNpUL8UM5A7rKynnI-eiTptRRpck7nShlQxJ2CHV0ntxh/IMG_0823.JPG?psid=1)
Post by: ATJr. on Jun 03, 2013 at 04:47 PM
Post by: rubenpogi on Jun 04, 2013 at 12:42 AM
Post by: defcon3 on Jun 04, 2013 at 03:38 AM
wow ganda naman ang fullrange speaker mo sana meron din ako kanyan ikaw ang the best sa audio
wag ka magkaila bro....nasa iyo yung isang kapares nyan.... ;) ;) ;)
alam natin lahat dito sa disyerto, panis ang gamit ko sa iyo....hehehehe.....
Saka walang best best pagdating sa gamit, enjoy mo lang pkikinig. ;)
Post by: corleone14 on Jun 04, 2013 at 10:03 AM
diy_master, marcopilyo, trod93, narito sila lahat....pm no na lang...
Thank you Sir!
Any thoughts guys on what receiver I can match these speakers with? I've heard Yamaha receivers are best match when it comes to locally made speakers.
Post by: squatt3r on Jun 06, 2013 at 12:05 PM
(http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8553/8966048456_e97b6573d7_z.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/29507514@N03/8966048456/)
DSC01468_PP (http://www.flickr.com/photos/29507514@N03/8966048456/) by squatt3r (http://www.flickr.com/people/29507514@N03/), on Flickr
https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/overnightsensationmtm (https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/overnightsensationmtm)
Post by: juneaki on Jun 15, 2013 at 10:36 AM
sir, baka naman pwedeng makahingi ng dimensions nitong full range speaker box eh? tnx.
me too, I've been building my speaker boxes for eternity since I haven't used up entirely my Cerwin Vega crossovers bought from eBay US for 2 and 3 ways speakers. my latest work was a 12" sub, with a Korean sub amp and a MarcoPilyo sub box, he heh.
cheers!
Bro just click and read on the blog/link, there are illustrations posted and some review too.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/50153-beyma-8ag-n-horn-viech.html
Post by: yer2010 on Jun 16, 2013 at 05:01 PM
;)
Post by: rubenpogi on Jul 02, 2013 at 01:55 AM
Post by: DTNS on Jul 04, 2013 at 10:42 PM
http://profesional.beyma.com/ingles/download/anuncios/TPL150_2007.jpg (http://profesional.beyma.com/ingles/download/anuncios/TPL150_2007.jpg)
Post by: Gino on Jul 05, 2013 at 02:35 PM
Post by: audiojunkie on Jul 20, 2013 at 04:41 PM
Mini Horn... from JBL Model 8340 Professional Series speaker...
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/ram_on/DIY/horntop_zpsd981349c.jpg)
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/ram_on/DIY/hornfront_zpsd2b313fc.jpg)
Great part for next DIY speaker project...
My First Build...
http://www.pinoydvd.com/index.php/topic,84232.330.html
:)
Post by: Tsnad on Jul 20, 2013 at 04:43 PM
Post by: audiojunkie on Jul 20, 2013 at 05:10 PM
hmmm mini sir... ::)Quote
Heto sir reference size.... :D
(http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/j326/darwin0704/image-1371225756274-V_zpsd3fdbfd7.jpg) (http://s1080.photobucket.com/user/darwin0704/media/image-1371225756274-V_zpsd3fdbfd7.jpg.html)
Post by: remington on Jul 24, 2013 at 10:00 AM
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/DSCN5252_zps108bc9e9.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/DSCN5252_zps108bc9e9.jpg.html)
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/DSCN5244_zps07e3f65d.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/DSCN5244_zps07e3f65d.jpg.html)
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/DSCN5359_zps6c613b3f.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/DSCN5359_zps6c613b3f.jpg.html)
Post by: dotnet on Aug 18, 2013 at 03:12 PM
Post by: ndotcom on Aug 20, 2013 at 07:47 AM
Sirs/Madams, can you please point me to where i can get a cheap LCR meter? or Inductance meter for measuring my DIY air core inductors? Thanks.
Bro check this out and pm mo si sir Tony, or better ay visit elabs http://www.elab.ph/forum/index.php may gumawa nyan dun..
http://www.pinoydvd.com/index.php/topic,160788.270.html
Post by: dotnet on Aug 20, 2013 at 05:00 PM
Post by: dotnet on Aug 21, 2013 at 11:59 AM
Post by: edrel sison on Aug 21, 2013 at 12:03 PM
http://www.amplifier.cd/Test_Equipment/other/LCR-815B.html
pm me if interested. not as good looking like the photo but gets the job done.
Post by: edrel sison on Aug 21, 2013 at 12:07 PM
Guys, I just want to know what kind of crossover simulator are you using to make crossovers for your diy projects? I want to make my own two way, but having quite a hard time what values to put into the crossovers. Thanks.
http://www.v-cap.com/speaker-crossover-calculator.php
Post by: audiojunkie on Aug 21, 2013 at 11:25 PM
Post by: juneaki on Sep 08, 2013 at 07:18 PM
Here are actual pics of the drivers:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/P1000137_zps92f2334f.jpg) (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/juneaki/media/P1000137_zps92f2334f.jpg.html) (http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/P1000138_zpsa68ea60d.jpg) (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/juneaki/media/P1000138_zpsa68ea60d.jpg.html) (http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/P1000139_zpsc6776f8d.jpg) (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/juneaki/media/P1000139_zpsc6776f8d.jpg.html) (http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/P1000141_zpsf1c1bdf2.jpg) (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/juneaki/media/P1000141_zpsf1c1bdf2.jpg.html)
Now my problem is the design of the box to be use on these oldies. Or just install it in an open box then hook it in parallel sa beyma viech ko para maging 4 ohms. Pwede kaya? Any other suggestions? or link na alam nyo, TIA mga sirs.
Post by: juneaki on Sep 10, 2013 at 07:50 AM
Post by: edrel sison on Sep 10, 2013 at 07:56 AM
Pasali po mga Sir.. share ko lang itong ongoing project ko.
Baffle Design: Pioneer PAX A30
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a201/ronaldcorrales/pax-a302.jpg)
Philips AD12202 / M8 & JBL 2405
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a201/ronaldcorrales/DSC_1556_zpse929a0df.jpg)
JBL 2405
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a201/ronaldcorrales/DSC_1557_zps524a4585.jpg)
Philips AD12202 / M8
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a201/ronaldcorrales/DSC_1568_zps1ef3c901.jpg)
Philips AD5200 & AD12202 / M8
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a201/ronaldcorrales/DSC_1570_zpsa9912670.jpg)
Update photo of my project..
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a201/ronaldcorrales/6A97064B-5E7B-42D0-BCFD-EB6C53B8E2E3-134-0000000379DE3A70.jpg)
Post by: dana on Sep 10, 2013 at 09:50 AM
ang tunay na lalaki, ganyan kalaki ang speakers ;D O0
napakinggan ko ung youtube posting ni parasound nyan, ang ganda !
mahanap nga ulet.
Post by: markcrenz on Sep 10, 2013 at 10:12 AM
Mga guys baka meron kayo suggestions? :Dtry mo muna sa open baffle at least 2 ft wide. kung wala kang t/s parameters you can safely use a 2 cu ft sealed box.
Post by: Gino on Sep 10, 2013 at 10:20 AM
Post by: juneaki on Sep 10, 2013 at 12:10 PM
try mo muna sa open baffle at least 2 ft wide. kung wala kang t/s parameters you can safely use a 2 cu ft sealed box.Balak ko talaga open box muna while looking for proper box design. Pwede ko ba i-hook in parallel sa 8 ohms beyma speaker ko itong bozak na 8 ohms din? in effect magiging 4 ohms na sya kaya dapat i-set ko sa 4 ohms yung output ng tube amp ko, right?
Post by: ATJr. on Sep 10, 2013 at 12:13 PM
Post by: juneaki on Sep 10, 2013 at 12:35 PM
ingat lang baka mag-away yung two speakers mo na nakaparallel...kung ako, pili kung alin...
or speaker switcher na lang para may choice, di ba sir? kung samahan ko ng tweeter yung Bozak, kailangan ba ng crossover network o pwede na capacitor na lang sa tweeter tapos hook it parallel sa Bozak? sorry po newbie sa electronics eh.
Post by: ATJr. on Sep 10, 2013 at 12:37 PM
Post by: Gino on Sep 10, 2013 at 01:10 PM
Bozak B-3001. Very similar to your drivers.
Post by: markcrenz on Sep 10, 2013 at 08:17 PM
Balak ko talaga open box muna while looking for proper box design. Pwede ko ba i-hook in parallel sa 8 ohms beyma speaker ko itong bozak na 8 ohms din? in effect magiging 4 ohms na sya kaya dapat i-set ko sa 4 ohms yung output ng tube amp ko, right?electrically it would be fine basta kaya ng amp ang 4 ohms BUT lulutang syempre ang tunog ng more sensitive speakers.
Post by: ATJr. on Sep 10, 2013 at 08:41 PM
Post by: Gino on Sep 10, 2013 at 08:43 PM
Post by: juneaki on Sep 11, 2013 at 03:42 PM
electrically it would be fine basta kaya ng amp ang 4 ohms BUT lulutang syempre ang tunog ng more sensitive speakers.
that is what i meant when i said mag-aaway yung two speakers....
Ang beyma ang may mas mataas na sensitivity (96db). Excellent sya sa mids at very good and highs with good enough lows. Yung bozak naman ay mataas din ang sensitivity at mas malalim at malambing ang bass at very good din sa vocals but the highs are wanting. I think in parallel, they will enhance the sound of each other. If put in a box, i believe mas malalim pa ang bass ng bozak.
But I am more inclined now to make a separate pair of speakers out of Bozak and find a suitable set of tweeters to enhance high freqs. I was encouraged by this article:
http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/diy_ob/gerry.html
Post by: juneaki on Sep 21, 2013 at 11:22 PM
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/P1000143_zps9d6e6a1d.jpg) (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/juneaki/media/P1000143_zps9d6e6a1d.jpg.html) (http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/P1000148_zps797be1b5.jpg) (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/juneaki/media/P1000148_zps797be1b5.jpg.html) (http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/P1000144_zpsfea97538.jpg) (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/juneaki/media/P1000144_zpsfea97538.jpg.html)(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/P1000145_zpse4bf2053.jpg) (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/juneaki/media/P1000145_zpse4bf2053.jpg.html) (http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/P1000146_zps314c280c.jpg) (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/juneaki/media/P1000146_zps314c280c.jpg.html)
The duo (Bozak and Klipsch) sings in harmony now giving great sound. Guitars sound like guitar, piano sounds like piano. The midrange are excellent, the singer is like in front of you (you can hear breathing). And the highs given off by the Klipsch are outstanding. At first i thought that bass is wanting. I tried different positions and when i found the right one, low freqs are now very good. Between the Beyma biech and these Bozaks, i'm favoring the speakers in open baffles. Great detailed true to life sound. I thought the Beymas have the higher sensitivity but it seems that the Bozaks are louder using the same volume level (9 oclock) of Yaqin MC10t.
Post by: ndotcom on Sep 22, 2013 at 10:10 AM
Post by: dotnet on Sep 23, 2013 at 02:28 PM
Post by: Gino on Sep 23, 2013 at 03:46 PM
Post by: juneaki on Sep 26, 2013 at 11:22 PM
Pics ng complete setup pls.
As requested:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/P1000157_zps314b7eea.jpg) (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/juneaki/media/P1000157_zps314b7eea.jpg.html) (http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/P1000156_zps5df38610.jpg) (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/juneaki/media/P1000156_zps5df38610.jpg.html) (http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/P1000158_zps98257192.jpg) (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/juneaki/media/P1000158_zps98257192.jpg.html) (http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/P1000159_zps43a48083.jpg) (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/juneaki/media/P1000159_zps43a48083.jpg.html)
Post by: Gino on Sep 27, 2013 at 08:20 AM
Post by: juneaki on Oct 28, 2013 at 07:22 AM
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/P1000148_zps797be1b5.jpg) (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/juneaki/media/P1000148_zps797be1b5.jpg.html)
I recently acquired a second pair of Bozak B199-A (from BLUED_2007). I'm thinking of making an infinite box (closed) for the speaker above and also put the newly acquired ones in the said box in parallel with the first.
I'm also thinking of having the same parallel configuration but in the same open baffle with a base this time. I'll put the second B199-A at the base facing down and elevate the baffles using 3" foot/stand. (i prefer this than the close box). I hope the second driver will further enhance the already good bass of these speakers. What do you think guys?
Sir Raffy (BLUED_2007) can attest how really good musically all round the Bozaks. Kahit sya nagulat sa kanyang narinig when we tested the speakers in his shop. ;D ;D
Post by: newbieforever on Jan 02, 2014 at 08:08 PM
Post by: Gino on Jan 02, 2014 at 08:34 PM
Post by: newbieforever on Jan 03, 2014 at 08:50 AM
Post by: tony on Jan 03, 2014 at 09:10 AM
Sorry to sound dumb but what kind of wire should be used to connect the driver (full range) to the terminal cup? Would regular speaker wire (ga 12) work?
most likely, the magnet wire in your speaker's voice coil is #30 to #28, so that a gage 22 to 18 is big enough, length is not even 1 meter from speaker terminal to the speaker box terminal jack itself....
but if you want to use #12, go ahead and do it...:D
Post by: newbieforever on Jan 06, 2014 at 03:49 PM
now that's cleared up, i would also like to get your input on using two full range drivers in a single cabinet. would this be good idea? i have a pair of audio nirvana super 6.5 and a pair of vintage 8" alnico drivers from a fellow pdvd'er (http://www.pinoydvd.com/index.php/topic,187316.0.html). any place where i can get speaker plans?
Post by: tony on Jan 06, 2014 at 04:03 PM
thanks sir tony! by your comment, i am assuming that speaker gauge (from driver to terminal) is not as critical as i initially thought. i think i still have some ga18 wires lying around so i guess i'll use those. :-)
now that's cleared up, i would also like to get your input on using two full range drivers in a single cabinet. would this be good idea? i have a pair of audio nirvana super 6.5 and a pair of vintage 8" alnico drivers from a fellow pdvd'er (http://www.pinoydvd.com/index.php/topic,187316.0.html). any place where i can get speaker plans?
good choice.....:D
https://www.google.com.ph/search?q=speaker+plans&oq=speaker+plans&aqs=chrome..69i57&sourceid=chrome&espv=210&es_sm=93&ie=UTF-8
Post by: Gino on Jan 06, 2014 at 04:23 PM
Be aware of your speaker's sensitivity ratings relative to each other if you insist on using both. You also need a crossover. Those are wide band speakers and for sure there will be overlaps. Depending on the outcome they may cause a bump or a dip in your response curve.
Post by: deist on Jan 06, 2014 at 04:53 PM
most likely, the magnet wire in your speaker's voice coil is #30 to #28, so that a gage 22 to 18 is big enough, length is not even 1 meter from speaker terminal to the speaker box terminal jack itself....
+1 I remember suggesting to you CAT5e ethernet cable wires, there are 4 pairs of 24AWG stranded wires inside the CAT5e. You can use 1 strand or 2 for each speaker polarity or you can get carried away and use 2 pairs per polarity ;)
I remember an advice from a full range speaker designer/manufacturer that copper wires are best used for FRs.
now that's cleared up, i would also like to get your input on using two full range drivers in a single cabinet. would this be good idea? i have a pair of audio nirvana super 6.5 and a pair of vintage 8" alnico drivers from a fellow pdvd'er (http://www.pinoydvd.com/index.php/topic,187316.0.html). any place where i can get speaker plans?
I wouldn't put 2 different drivers in a single box. As Gino said, you need to use a crossover so that 1 pair will handle lows & another pair for the highs/mids but that will become multi-way, straying from the concept of full range which is a single driver to handle the entire audible spectrum.
Whatever you decide on pls keep us posted. Seek advice from the Audio Nirvana thread also, they are very happy with their setup and I haven't read any negative feedback so I'm pretty sure they will be more than willing to help you out with your AN project.
Post by: tony on Jan 06, 2014 at 05:05 PM
the caveat is that there should be no interaction between the two and
they will function independently of each other....
Post by: deist on Jan 06, 2014 at 05:11 PM
there is nothing to prevent you from putting two drivers in one cabinet or box,
the caveat is that there should be no interaction between the two and
they will function independently of each other....
Agree, kaya lang sir Tony the drivers are 6.5" & 8" I can just imagine how huge those boxes will be if you put them together in a single enclosure ;D
Post by: tony on Jan 06, 2014 at 05:15 PM
Agree, kaya lang sir Tony the drivers are 6.5" & 8" I can just imagine how huge those boxes will be if you put them together in a single enclosure ;D
imagination lang....pero the idea sucks....:D
since ang tittle ng thread na ito ay Speaker DIY'ers , bakit hindi kung gusto nya gawin...
Post by: newbieforever on Jan 06, 2014 at 05:37 PM
Post by: tony on Jan 06, 2014 at 06:01 PM
Post by: deist on Jan 06, 2014 at 07:40 PM
it was just a thought since i remember seeing dual driver box designs somewhere (can't seem to remember where). i do remember the drivers being isolated from each other internally though... again, it was just a random thought since i did have 2 pairs of drivers (and only one amp). i'll do some more research and keep you posted.
ah it must be a F.A.S.T. (full range and subwoofer technology) system. Basically you will use the full range driver to handle the highs & mids, crossed it over low so a separate subwoofer driver (specifically designed to handle constant cone excursion, yung tinatawag na "bayo") will take care of the lows (bass), in 2 separate boxes na pinagkabit so it will look like one floorstander. Pero meron din 2 SAME drivers in 1 box volume wired in parallel.
I understand this is gonna be your first full range build? my suggestion is to go the safe route and build a proven box design for your AN, why? because I want you to first experience full range drivers for what they are designed for; a single driver to handle the whole spectrum of sound. After building my Mark Audio full range speakers hindi ko na ginamit yung Wharfedale Dentons ko & after 2 weeks binenta ko na. For me my build is about 2 tiers level above the Dentons SQ wise (the build cost is also a couple of thousands cheaper 8)) I think i'm done with off-the-shelf speakers.
No need to apologize bro, we're just having a discussion here, idol ko yan si sir Tony, his knowledge in electronics esp tubes is very valuable to the community lalo na sa DIYers kasi hindi madamot yan mag-share ng alam nya :)
Post by: newbieforever on Jan 08, 2014 at 05:46 PM
yes, this will be my first full range build. and yes, the ones i saw were indeed F.A.S.T. systems (spent the past couple of days researching). i'll probably look into those for my other set of drivers. but for now, i'll take sir deist's advise and build the AN as suggested by CommonSense Audio. :-)
and yes, crazy is fun sir tony!
Post by: tony on Jan 08, 2014 at 05:54 PM
Post by: Nelson de Leon on Jan 08, 2014 at 07:25 PM
DIY'ers can go as crazy as they like, they are not motivated by profit.... ;) ;D
Oo nga. Alam mo sana may mag-DIY anechoic chamber dito with the proper tools for measuring performances of the speaker DIY builds.
Post by: tony on Jan 08, 2014 at 07:54 PM
Post by: odyopayl on Jan 09, 2014 at 07:43 AM
Oo nga. Alam mo sana may mag-DIY anechoic chamber dito with the proper tools for measuring performances of the speaker DIY builds.Sir Nelson, anechoic chamber is just for the standard measurements of commercial speakers just to have universal reference. As far my experience with audio, speaker performance depends on the listening environment. Most audiophile gears doesn't have any bass and treble meaning in order to make them sounds good, everything should be match from source, interconnects, speaker cable and speakers and listening room.
DIY is fun in order to understand what really sounds are. I heard a set-up with a single raw driver that sounds full without a Sub. Everything should be well match. The good thing about DIY you can build system that can really matched your listening taste based on your listening room.
Post by: Nelson de Leon on Jan 09, 2014 at 10:00 PM
Sir Nelson, anechoic chamber is just for the standard measurements of commercial speakers just to have universal reference. As far my experience with audio, speaker performance depends on the listening environment. Most audiophile gears doesn't have any bass and treble meaning in order to make them sounds good, everything should be match from source, interconnects, speaker cable and speakers and listening room.
DIY is fun in order to understand what really sounds are. I heard a set-up with a single raw driver that sounds full without a Sub. Everything should be well match. The good thing about DIY you can build system that can really matched your listening taste based on your listening room.
I know. I meant performance, not sonic signature. Why, so you'll know, for one, how much power you would need to drive the speakers at different decibels. I know matching is important pero it doesn't start and end there. Anechoic chambers are not just for universal reference but it's one of the common ways of properly knowing, in terms of quantifiable data, how the speaker would perform. I'm talking physical movement etc. Not how it would sound.
Post by: newbieforever on Jan 10, 2014 at 09:25 AM
Post by: markcrenz on Jan 10, 2014 at 09:56 AM
Post by: newbieforever on Jan 10, 2014 at 10:30 AM
You can download speaker box calculators, free software marami dyan. Medyo kailangan lang tyaga aralin yun, but once you get the hang of it you can design your own box based on the TS parameters of any driver.
would one need a background in electronics?
Post by: tony on Jan 10, 2014 at 11:22 AM
Post by: markcrenz on Jan 10, 2014 at 12:22 PM
would one need a background in electronics?No. But the ability to interpret frequency response graphs is necessary. Yun kasi ang graphical representation ng results that you will get after entering data in the software. Math proficiency is an advantage since maraming numbers involved.
Sample pic showing the software model of my DIY subs courtesy of the great sub builder threadlock. My Excel-based software (not shown) produced almost identical results. The bottom left graph can be interpreted as: theoretical 110 dB average SPL at 250 watts, -3.5dB/+1.2dB from 20hz-200hz, not accounting room gain & acoustic coupling of 2 subs.
(http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k104/nfalabi/JBL120d.jpg)
Post by: notnimdab2009 on Jan 11, 2014 at 06:42 AM
Post by: qguy on Jan 11, 2014 at 07:12 AM
Might be cheaper to just buy ready made speakers from konzert and the like, not unless may special requirement ka.
ano pong diy speakers pede nyo ma recommend for karaoke system? budget po 8k. thanks.
Post by: Nelson de Leon on Jan 11, 2014 at 07:45 AM
Might be cheaper to just buy ready made speakers from konzert and the like, not unless may special requirement ka.
Baka naman he's into the hobby of DIY din kaya he's asking for recommendations. If we will look at the videoke (for rent) system and copy it. he's gonna need a special midrange because usually nakikita ko, mga 6.5" - 8" ang midrange nila. But you're right, for the budget of 8k, konzert speakers coes into mind. Pero kulang pa kasi he would still need a subwoofer.
Post by: Gino on Jan 11, 2014 at 09:26 AM
Post by: newbieforever on Jan 11, 2014 at 11:22 AM
No. But the ability to interpret frequency response graphs is necessary. Yun kasi ang graphical representation ng results that you will get after entering data in the software. Math proficiency is an advantage since maraming numbers involved.
Sample pic showing the software model of my DIY subs courtesy of the great sub builder threadlock. My Excel-based software (not shown) produced almost identical results. The bottom left graph can be interpreted as: theoretical 110 dB average SPL at 250 watts, -3.5dB/+1.2dB from 20hz-200hz, not accounting room gain & acoustic coupling of 2 subs.
(http://i86.photobucket.com/albums/k104/nfalabi/JBL120d.jpg)
been reading through similar threads about speaker/cabinet design and it's all waaaayy over my head :-[ . seems like a good thing to get into though! what's a good starting point (ie. book/website/articles/short courses) for a newbie like myself with absolutely no background? meron bang "speakers for dummies" ;D ? how'd everyone here get started?
Post by: qguy on Jan 11, 2014 at 11:28 AM
Post by: notnimdab2009 on Jan 11, 2014 at 06:28 PM
Might be cheaper to just buy ready made speakers from konzert and the like, not unless may special requirement ka.
Thanks qguy. this is what i am acutally have in mind. Medyo mahirap pa sa akin ang DIY at sobrang bago ko pa lang sa sounds... mahilig lang kumanta.. I'm planning to get the KSS-12 of konzert from what i see sa mga reviews nito. Siguro in the near after a year or two pag nag upgrade ako bago DIY na.
Thanks also sa iba pang sumagot.
Post by: fredreadrick on Jan 12, 2014 at 05:42 PM
Specifications:
Drivers - Universal Sound, 8" FR courtesy of bro. chorus.
Enclosure - 19mm ordinary plywood
Design - Pensil modified [depth=360mm]
Damping - not yet installed.
Binding post - not yet installed.
Finish - TBA
Total Cost - Php. 4k so far
Note: i asked my neighborhood wood work shop to cut the plywood, i did the enclosure assembly in a day. using only wood glue & nails, no clamp. at 7pm, i hooked the pair in my Topping TP20-Mark2. Tomorrow, i"ll install binding post & damping materials courtesy of neighborhood upholstery shop.
SQ [initial] - Not expecting much about this, pero iba talaga ang FR especially sa vocal, instrumental, jazz, chamber music. Even tried Beethoven's Symphony # 9, heard details that i'm not aware off before.
My favourite piece - Hendrix's Little Wing, sarap ng guitar solo. Tama lng ang highs, hindi rin bitin ang lows. Ayus din ang attack. [Hirap mag describe ng sound, pinuyat ako ng speaker na to kaka-kinig]
(https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1318x880q90/513/r5jo.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1318x872q90/822/7uwm.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1318x880q90/713/b8wz.jpg)
Post by: Gino on Jan 12, 2014 at 06:00 PM
Post by: fredreadrick on Jan 12, 2014 at 06:20 PM
I like it.Thank you sir. Natuwa lang ako sa results.
Post by: remington on Jan 12, 2014 at 07:30 PM
Post by: fredreadrick on Jan 12, 2014 at 08:15 PM
congrats sir! iba talaga ang feeling pag nakita at narinig mong maganda ang kinalabasan ng pinag hirapang gawin nakaka wala ng pagod ;)
originally, ang plano ko sa enclosure na ito eh as a mock-up bago ako gumawa uli pag nakuha ko na ang proper design & materials.
yes, sir, nakakawala talaga ng pagod pag masaya ka sa resulta ng ginagawa mo. salamat sa inyo mga masters dito sa pDVD dami kong natutunan.
Post by: deist on Jan 12, 2014 at 11:21 PM
Post by: fredreadrick on Jan 13, 2014 at 07:05 AM
thank you sir.
Post by: shrek7 on Jan 13, 2014 at 07:59 AM
Just want to share my 1st DIY speaker project...still on-going.wow!!! Nice work!!! Congrats sir! Im sure it will keep you smiling everytime you play your speakers, may pride din kapag pinapatugtog mo kasi ikaw ang gumawa. Happy listening sir!
Specifications:
Drivers - Universal Sound, 8" FR courtesy of bro. chorus.
Enclosure - 19mm ordinary plywood
Design - Pensil modified [depth=360mm]
Damping - not yet installed.
Binding post - not yet installed.
Finish - TBA
Total Cost - Php. 4k so far
Note: i asked my neighborhood wood work shop to cut the plywood, i did the enclosure assembly in a day. using only wood glue & nails, no clamp. at 7pm, i hooked the pair in my Topping TP20-Mark2. Tomorrow, i"ll install binding post & damping materials courtesy of neighborhood upholstery shop.
SQ [initial] - Not expecting much about this, pero iba talaga ang FR especially sa vocal, instrumental, jazz, chamber music. Even tried Beethoven's Symphony # 9, heard details that i'm not aware off before.
My favourite piece - Hendrix's Little Wing, sarap ng guitar solo. Tama lng ang highs, hindi rin bitin ang lows. Ayus din ang attack. [Hirap mag describe ng sound, pinuyat ako ng speaker na to kaka-kinig]
(https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1318x880q90/513/r5jo.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1318x872q90/822/7uwm.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/1318x880q90/713/b8wz.jpg)
Post by: tony on Jan 13, 2014 at 08:40 AM
after a lot of researches & reading this thread, i settle to pensils.
thank you sir.
are those marine plywood? and how much did the shop charge you for cutting plywood? thanks...
Post by: fredreadrick on Jan 13, 2014 at 09:06 AM
are those marine plywood? and how much did the shop charge you for cutting plywood? thanks...
sir tony,
ordinary plywood only - worth P820, cutting charge P500 + 100 tip to the carpenter.
thanks
Post by: rochie on Jan 13, 2014 at 09:07 AM
anong design nyang box mo? meron k ba diyan plans niyan?pwede bang makahingi ko ng kopya para din sa 8in fullrange driver ko. salamat
Post by: fredreadrick on Jan 13, 2014 at 09:08 AM
bro fred,
anong design nyang box mo? meron k ba diyan plans niyan?pwede bang makahingi ko ng kopya para din sa 8in fullrange driver ko. salamat
ok bro, pensils
send ko na lang sa email mo. or download mo n lng dito
http://www.markaudio.com/Plans/itemlist/category/26-Alpair-12P
Post by: tony on Jan 13, 2014 at 10:06 AM
sir tony,
ordinary plywood only - worth P820, cutting charge P500 + 100 tip to the carpenter.
thanks
thanks, marine ply would cost more...
Post by: fredreadrick on Jan 13, 2014 at 10:53 AM
thanks, marine ply would cost more...yes sir, but next time i'll opt for MDF... ingat lng sa water/moisture.
Post by: Nelson de Leon on Jan 13, 2014 at 01:53 PM
thanks, marine ply would cost more...
Or plyboard baka masmaganda kesa local plywood.
Post by: deist on Jan 13, 2014 at 02:08 PM
Post by: Chorus on Jan 13, 2014 at 06:51 PM
BTW ano sound card gamit mo?
Nice HTPC case pabulong price
Thanks
Post by: tony on Jan 13, 2014 at 06:58 PM
most recommended by experienced builders online is birch plywood, meron bang source locally? it would definitely cost more but its density & stiffness is way better than mentioned above.
alam ko merong narra plywood, google came back with these...
http://ph1012580517.fm.alibaba.com/company_profile.html#top-nav-bar
http://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Narra-Plywood_238738718.html
https://www.google.com.ph/search?q=narra+plywood&oq=narra+plywood&aqs=chrome..69i57&sourceid=chrome&espv=210&es_sm=93&ie=UTF-8
Post by: fredreadrick on Jan 14, 2014 at 08:06 AM
Bro yan na ba yung FR natin?hehehe subwoofer nalang kulang nyan.
BTW ano sound card gamit mo?
Nice HTPC case pabulong price
Thanks
yes bro, ito nga yong galing sa 'yo ginawan ko ng enclosure kahit madalian lng, sayang nman kung nakatengga.
di na siguro kelangan ng subwoofer, though specified na 80hz lng bottom nito, pakirandam ko mas malalim pa. to confirm my feeling - i played Stereophile test CD, 50hz naririrnig ko pa. siguro nadaan sa laki ng enclosures [W260*D360*H910mm].
Musiland 02 US Dragon, uwi ko p galing abroad ung Case, nsa 300usd ata sa net ang price.
salamat sa yo bro - ito ang 1st FR ko.
Update:
Installed the binding posts & damping materials yesterday.
Results - mas buo & tight ang lows, gumanda ang mids though subtle lng , same with soundstage-konting improvement sa maliit kong listenning room.
Post by: JoeyGS on Jan 19, 2014 at 07:33 AM
Post by: remington on Jan 19, 2014 at 07:35 AM
Post by: fredreadrick on Jan 19, 2014 at 07:41 AM
sa mga tidahan ng tela sa palengke meron or sa shell canvass
try mo rin sir sa upholstery shop... dun ako nakabahagi.
Post by: JoeyGS on Jan 19, 2014 at 07:42 AM
sa mga tidahan ng tela sa palengke meron or sa shell canvass
Post by: deist on Jan 19, 2014 at 12:33 PM
Post by: juneaki on Jan 19, 2014 at 10:10 PM
As requested:
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/P1000157_zps314b7eea.jpg) (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/juneaki/media/P1000157_zps314b7eea.jpg.html) (http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/P1000156_zps5df38610.jpg) (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/juneaki/media/P1000156_zps5df38610.jpg.html) (http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/P1000158_zps98257192.jpg) (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/juneaki/media/P1000158_zps98257192.jpg.html) (http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/P1000159_zps43a48083.jpg) (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/juneaki/media/P1000159_zps43a48083.jpg.html)
I made some modifications, it's now dual 12" Bozaks!
(http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/P1000245_zpse3e04e51.jpg) (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/juneaki/media/P1000245_zpse3e04e51.jpg.html) (http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c20/juneaki/P1000246_zpsc5c8d88a.jpg) (http://s24.photobucket.com/user/juneaki/media/P1000246_zpsc5c8d88a.jpg.html)
. . . very big improvement sa sound quality.
Post by: JoeyGS on Jan 20, 2014 at 12:59 AM
Nice to have met you ...... you are on the right track. Those Alpairs are very articulate even at low volumes. Congrats on your speaker build.
Sir Joey,meron ako extra polyfiber sheet,i can give it to you :)
Post by: deist on Jan 20, 2014 at 08:44 AM
Thanks deist. Appreciate it.
Nice to have met you ...... you are on the right track. Those Alpairs are very articulate even at low volumes. Congrats on your speaker build.
Welcome & thanks for dropping by sir, i also appreciate your input. You will soon experience & hear the MarkAudio signature sound as they call it ;)
Post by: redstarrising on Jan 20, 2014 at 06:24 PM
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff38/junendaya/DIY/IMG_1044_zps4c8f4507.jpg)
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff38/junendaya/DIY/IMG_1068_zps9c1c522c.jpg)
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff38/junendaya/DIY/IMG_1113_zpsf7e071b7.jpg)
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff38/junendaya/DIY/IMG_1323_zps40f10457.jpg)
Post by: Chorus on Jan 20, 2014 at 08:42 PM
congrats sir, nice!
malapit na Mark Audio natin nakaisip ka na ba ng enclosure natin? hehehe
Post by: fredreadrick on Jan 20, 2014 at 08:45 PM
malapit na Mark Audio natin nakaisip ka na ba ng enclosure natin? hehehe
sa dami ng naiisip... nakakalito tuloy! de bale may ilang araw pa naman para makapg-decide, hehehe
Post by: Chorus on Jan 20, 2014 at 08:49 PM
sa dami ng naiisip... nakakalito tuloy! de bale may ilang araw pa naman para makapg-decide, hehehe
Book shelve or Floor-stand? hehehe
Post by: fredreadrick on Jan 20, 2014 at 08:55 PM
http://www.markaudio.com/Plans/itemlist/category/13-CHR-70-Chamagne
Post by: Chorus on Jan 20, 2014 at 09:03 PM
try ko naman BS - Andreas vented design ShoeBox-70.3
http://www.markaudio.com/Plans/itemlist/category/13-CHR-70-Chamagne
ayos pasabay ha pagusapan nalang natin pag daan ko sa inyo
Post by: fredreadrick on Jan 20, 2014 at 09:10 PM
dito lang lagi ako sa bahay.
Post by: deist on Jan 21, 2014 at 04:35 PM
malapit na Mark Audio natin nakaisip ka na ba ng enclosure natin? hehehe
ayos pasabay ha pagusapan nalang natin pag daan ko sa inyo
nice! looking forward to your build mga sir, share nyo sa MA thread.
Post by: fredreadrick on Jan 21, 2014 at 09:55 PM
Here is first DIY Full range speaker Visaton B200 :)
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff38/junendaya/DIY/IMG_1044_zps4c8f4507.jpg)
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff38/junendaya/DIY/IMG_1068_zps9c1c522c.jpg)
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff38/junendaya/DIY/IMG_1113_zpsf7e071b7.jpg)
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff38/junendaya/DIY/IMG_1323_zps40f10457.jpg)
sir redstarrising, very nice..wala na ko masabi.
galing ng pagkaka-veneer, continous ang haspe. the box looks like it was made from solid wood. congrats!
Post by: Chorus on Jan 21, 2014 at 10:26 PM
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/809/n9w8.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/mhn9w8j)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/800x600q90/837/vwqo.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/n9vwqoj)
Post by: remington on Jan 21, 2014 at 10:55 PM
Post by: mightbeyou on Jan 22, 2014 at 11:28 AM
Post by: tony on Jan 22, 2014 at 11:30 AM
Post by: newbieforever on Jan 28, 2014 at 03:32 PM
Post by: JojoD818 on Jan 29, 2014 at 12:08 AM
Here is first DIY Full range speaker Visaton B200 :)
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff38/junendaya/DIY/IMG_1044_zps4c8f4507.jpg)
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff38/junendaya/DIY/IMG_1068_zps9c1c522c.jpg)
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff38/junendaya/DIY/IMG_1113_zpsf7e071b7.jpg)
(http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff38/junendaya/DIY/IMG_1323_zps40f10457.jpg)
Is that a BSC? Love the finger joint...
Post by: Chorus on Jan 31, 2014 at 03:42 PM
"Voice of the Theater"
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/706/lbtk.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/jmlbtkj)
"Pyramid"
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/541/mrky.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/f1mrkyj)
Post by: remington on Jan 31, 2014 at 03:53 PM
Post by: Chorus on Jan 31, 2014 at 06:33 PM
ang ganda naman! parinig ako pag nakuha mo na! ganda nung horn! :o
no problem bro.
Post by: crazyhog on Jan 31, 2014 at 06:42 PM
One of Yabadabadoo Speaker creation
"Voice of the Theater"
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/706/lbtk.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/jmlbtkj)
"Pyramid"
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/xq90/541/mrky.jpg) (https://imageshack.com/i/f1mrkyj)
WoW! Ready n ang barangay sa New Years Party? :D
Post by: Chorus on Jan 31, 2014 at 06:44 PM
Post by: crazyhog on Jan 31, 2014 at 06:49 PM
Post by: Chorus on Jan 31, 2014 at 06:57 PM
musta na HT mo Bil?
tiis lang muna sa stereo kapag nanonood ng movies hehehe. Kapag ready na yung inaabangan ko sayo mag-HT ulit ako. hehehe
Post by: totnakz_007 on Feb 05, 2014 at 02:43 AM
Question lang po... May atomic 12 inch subwoofer po ako gusto ko po planning to DIY po sana for my home audio aside sa MDF board stickwell at turnilyo po ano pa po ang kaylangan ko para magamit ko po sha sa HT?
thanks po
Post by: Nelson de Leon on Feb 05, 2014 at 08:18 AM
mga guru,
Question lang po... May atomic 12 inch subwoofer po ako gusto ko po planning to DIY po sana for my home audio aside sa MDF board stickwell at turnilyo po ano pa po ang kaylangan ko para magamit ko po sha sa HT?
thanks po
Wires, speaker terminals, amplifier to drive your sub, crossover kung wala ang amplifier mo.
Post by: Gino on Feb 05, 2014 at 09:28 AM
Post by: xtian_lugz on Feb 05, 2014 at 12:53 PM
Post by: Gino on Feb 05, 2014 at 12:56 PM
Post by: tony on Feb 05, 2014 at 04:14 PM
Mga sirs san ba ma kakabili ng birch plywood? Salamat..
http://ph.88db.com/q-Birch%20plywood%20for%20sale/1/
Post by: jjohnc on Feb 05, 2014 at 04:18 PM
Mga sirs san ba ma kakabili ng birch plywood? Salamat..dre meron akong sobrang real wood veneers rosewood size 4x8 pm me kung gusto mo
Post by: fredreadrick on Feb 05, 2014 at 05:12 PM
binihisan ng madalian kaya fit hindi maintindihan...
kelangan pa mag-halfday sa work para lang magawa tagal n kasing nakatengga yong "leather" na inorder ko sa neighborhood upholstery.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn2/t1/1896893_739447829413517_236965632_n.jpg)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/t1/1010996_739454096079557_1818696769_n.jpg)
Post by: totnakz_007 on Feb 05, 2014 at 09:17 PM
•1500.WATT - 5000.WATT
•Cast Aluminum Basket
•Double stacked magnet
•Long excursion 2-1/2 inch high temp voice coil
thanks po
Post by: Gino on Feb 06, 2014 at 11:04 AM
Post by: totnakz_007 on Feb 06, 2014 at 01:29 PM
Post by: Gino on Feb 06, 2014 at 01:39 PM
Hindi pagtitipid ang motivation ng DIY. The R&D and revisions are actually expensive. Put your labor, transpo, and materials together and mas mura pang bumili ng proven retail active subwoofer.
Post by: tony on Feb 06, 2014 at 01:42 PM
Hindi pagtitipid ang motivation ng DIY.
agreed....actually mas mura yung commercial units even if the tag price appears higher...
Post by: totnakz_007 on Feb 06, 2014 at 02:16 PM
Post by: JojoD818 on Feb 06, 2014 at 02:46 PM
You know what you are doing.
Sadly, not all speaker builders do.
I'll be honest, during elementary I salvaged every speaker I can find and put them in a box and powered it with my walkman frying the poor thing.
I lost a week's allowance as punishment for salvaging speakers from working radios in the house.
Post by: John E. on Feb 06, 2014 at 02:50 PM
Sadly, not all speaker builders do.
I'll be honest, during elementary I salvaged every speaker I can find and put them in a box and powered it with my walkman frying the poor thing.
I lost a week's allowance as punishment for salvaging speakers from working radios in the house.
hehehe ganyan din ako nung elementary master jojo! aiwa naman yung portable/walkman ko!
Post by: Gino on Feb 06, 2014 at 03:40 PM
Post by: JojoD818 on Feb 06, 2014 at 04:49 PM
hehehe ganyan din ako nung elementary master jojo! aiwa naman yung portable/walkman ko!
hay salamat, akala ko weird ang pagkabata ko eh. ;D
the worst thing (and relative punishment) I did was dismantle the disc mechanism from the back of talking dolls in the hopes of making my very own battery operated TT. :(
(http://images.dangerousminds.net/uploads/images/todliche_inside.jpg)
diyan ako nayare ng husto tsk tsk tsk... ;D
Post by: JojoD818 on Feb 06, 2014 at 04:51 PM
Ha ha ha. I can relate. Anything that could be opened with a screwdriver, was opened. The creations worthless. The thrill was priceless.
Kaya siguro yun SAE receiver ng daddy ko under lock and key... tuwang tuwa pa naman ako dun ang daming pindutan! ;D
Post by: Gino on Feb 06, 2014 at 04:53 PM
Post by: JojoD818 on Feb 06, 2014 at 05:01 PM
Ha ha ha. A very wise move by your daddy.
Actually it was him who made the subscription to Electronics Enthusiast magazine and pointed me to Alemar's (that's like a National Bookstore for those not in the know) and buy this cheap book about loudspeakers. Dami ko natutunan dun sa book na yun, puro kalyo daliri ko sa pag wind ng coil para sa dividing network. ;D
He had an electrician install a separate electrical line to my room with it's own fuse (wala pa breakers noon ;D) and at about grade 5 got my very first fire extinguisher as a birthday gift hahaha.
Speaker building was fun and tedious back in those days, wala pa power tools but mura pa mga drivers na magaganda.
Post by: Gino on Feb 06, 2014 at 05:06 PM
Post by: JojoD818 on Feb 06, 2014 at 08:48 PM
Alemars, ha ha. Throwback ah. Alala ko iyan. Tuwing last weekend of summer depressed ako pagshopping ng school gear sa Alemars ha ha. Sa Cubao ata yung amin. Tapos bili sapatos sa Greg's sa Horseshoe Village.
Langya throwback Thrusday nga pala ngayon! :D
Post by: Ilovemusic on Feb 10, 2014 at 09:29 PM
I have a pair of tweeters, one of which sounds dull and the other one sounds bright(er). How would you know who is sounding properly? There is a treble peak at around 8khz on one of the tweeters. I guess my question is, is it possible for a bad tweeter to be more 'sibilant' or by default do bad tweeters go dull sounding?
Post by: markcrenz on Feb 14, 2014 at 06:42 PM
Oh my! Just the right thread for me. Guys may problema ako. Im planning my first build and in the planning stages I am taken aback by one particular issue that is pretty much a dilemna.Whatever the answer is, there is nothing you can do to make them sound the same again. And if ever you determine which is bad and somehow manage to make it sound like the other one, you probably wouldn't want to use a pair of dull tweeters or a pair that rings at 8khz.
I have a pair of tweeters, one of which sounds dull and the other one sounds bright(er). How would you know who is sounding properly? There is a treble peak at around 8khz on one of the tweeters. I guess my question is, is it possible for a bad tweeter to be more 'sibilant' or by default do bad tweeters go dull sounding?
Simplify things by replacing the tweeter with a different pair.
Post by: Ilovemusic on Feb 14, 2014 at 07:00 PM
of course, i ended up getting a new pair of tweeters. hopefully i can amass the effort to start the cabinet build.
the question stands. do some tweeters go brighter when they go bad?
Post by: Gino on Feb 14, 2014 at 07:31 PM
Post by: tony on Feb 14, 2014 at 07:35 PM
yep! thing is im trying to get an answer for educational purposes. you know, to make sense of it all? your answer makes full sense in a DIY kind of way, so you are in context being this is a DIY thread. im just really curious, i guess.
of course, i ended up getting a new pair of tweeters. hopefully i can amass the effort to start the cabinet build.
the question stands. do some tweeters go brighter when they go bad?
dun sa tabi ng pasig city hall merong speaker repair shop, you can hove your tweeters checked there...
Post by: Ilovemusic on Feb 14, 2014 at 07:42 PM
If it doesn't sound good, it has gone bad. I don't really see the point of your inquiry.
this is like saying f*ck education.
im sorry if you dont understand the question. simple lang yung tanong.
posible bang may mga tweeter na pag nasira/degrade eh nagiging bright ang tunog? the more i look at the answers the more i am thinking na mali ako ng pinagtanungan. anyway forget it. i rest my case.
Addendum: On a humbler note, i guess there's just no specific answer for this. its a case to case basis, therefore might be a unique issue. Perhaps too insignificant to be considered a topic.
Post by: tony on Feb 14, 2014 at 08:07 PM
it is just that our experience is different from yours, yon lang yon...
anong tweeters ba yan?
Post by: markcrenz on Feb 14, 2014 at 09:54 PM
the question stands. do some tweeters go brighter when they go bad?they often don't. during overloads those with plastic domes may either burn slightly and stiffen decreasing its sensitivity, or simply burn up and die. cone tweeters may also stiffen over time and again lose sensitivity. most tweeter failures are open circuits.
Post by: JojoD818 on Feb 14, 2014 at 10:17 PM
Oh my! Just the right thread for me. Guys may problema ako. Im planning my first build and in the planning stages I am taken aback by one particular issue that is pretty much a dilemna.
I have a pair of tweeters, one of which sounds dull and the other one sounds bright(er). How would you know who is sounding properly? There is a treble peak at around 8khz on one of the tweeters. I guess my question is, is it possible for a bad tweeter to be more 'sibilant' or by default do bad tweeters go dull sounding?
Have you checked the caps on the crossover? You may want to switch the two tweeters and deduce the answer from there.
Post by: remington on Feb 16, 2014 at 11:06 AM
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/DSCN8820_zps538508b6.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/DSCN8820_zps538508b6.jpg.html)
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/DSCN8821_zpsb3b22780.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/DSCN8821_zpsb3b22780.jpg.html)
Post by: JojoD818 on Feb 16, 2014 at 11:09 AM
Post by: remington on Feb 16, 2014 at 11:27 AM
nice, very nice...thanks sir!!!
Post by: JojoD818 on Feb 16, 2014 at 11:32 AM
thanks sir!!!
What are your plans for finishing?
Post by: camoteque on Feb 16, 2014 at 11:54 AM
horn tweeter... raw finish...5.5"x11"x8" using vifa xt25sc90-04 ;)
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/DSCN8820_zps538508b6.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/DSCN8820_zps538508b6.jpg.html)
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/DSCN8821_zpsb3b22780.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/DSCN8821_zpsb3b22780.jpg.html)
First time I've seen a design like this. What are you trying to achieve with placing your tweeter in a horn like this? Nice woodwork, btw.
Post by: tony on Feb 16, 2014 at 12:14 PM
caotecue, kailangan bang my throat yung horn?
madali namang lagyan yan kung sakali....
Post by: camoteque on Feb 16, 2014 at 12:56 PM
Post by: remington on Feb 16, 2014 at 02:28 PM
I'm no expert but I just noticed two unconventional things being done here. But maybe remington has special considerations here. One is, as Tony had noticed, is the absence of a throat (or is that the throat immediately after the tweeter) so no smooth transition here from tweeter to the horn itself. I doubt if there will be efficiency gained here without proper horn expansion. Two, I don't know why the stepped expansion. Maybe part of the design. But the stepped expansion will create distortion for the tweeter rather than reduce it. Sound will bounce at the insides of the horn and may cause delays. Btw, what is the frequency cut-off of this horn? Have you compared the tweeter's performance with/without the horn?were still in the process of tuning it sir but so far the outcome is well better than expected it enhances the gain and overall performance of the vifa. I only put 2, 6.8uf capacitors each tweeter and bi amp it using lepai with Audio Nirvana and Mark audio.
What are your plans for finishing?vinyl ang outer part and flat black spray paint inside sir.
sabi ko na nga ba.....Larry will chime in....:Dnag tutuning pa kami ni kit master pero so far maganda na ang outcome well better than expected
caotecue, kailangan bang my throat yung horn?
madali namang lagyan yan kung sakali....
Post by: JojoD818 on Feb 16, 2014 at 02:43 PM
vinyl ang outer part and flat black spray paint inside sir.
cool. please do keep us posted sir.
Post by: camoteque on Feb 16, 2014 at 03:36 PM
Are you bi-amping meaning the tweeter alone or using the lepai with the vifa, markaudio and audio nirvana, and then use another amp for the sub?
Post by: remington on Feb 16, 2014 at 10:19 PM
Remington,the vifa alone is being driven by the lepai the audio nirvana or mark audio is being driven by an el34 push pull power amp depending on which one I want to use and they are all connected together with a powered sub woofer to a tube pre amp with 3 outputs made by master tonyT. :)
Are you bi-amping meaning the tweeter alone or using the lepai with the vifa, markaudio and audio nirvana, and then use another amp for the sub?
cool. please do keep us posted sir.sure sir! ;)
Post by: remington on Feb 16, 2014 at 10:30 PM
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/DSCN8835_zps5ffd2fd5.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/DSCN8835_zps5ffd2fd5.jpg.html)
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/DSCN8837_zpsba612c5d.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/DSCN8837_zpsba612c5d.jpg.html)
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/DSCN8832_zps44036440.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/DSCN8832_zps44036440.jpg.html)
Post by: camoteque on Feb 17, 2014 at 10:52 AM
Just some questions to ponder and which might help with your design. Anyway, this is a diy thread.
I see that you're cutting the tweeter at 1.5khz (2-6.8uf). Your 1st order filter is not steep that your tweeter has output even below 1khz. Is the audio nirvana or mark audio driver not able to reach those frequencies well? There are more frequencies overlapping your 2 drivers in this cut-off which I think is not good. My unsolicited advice is to cut the tweeter higher depending on the output of the fullrange drivers. Btw, have you tried measuring the output without the tweeters?
Also, the vifa is driven separately by an amplifier so you have no issues with gain. Maybe a waveguide is better used than a horn if the issue is directivity. Just my 2cents.
Larry
Post by: camoteque on Feb 17, 2014 at 11:38 AM
Post by: remington on Feb 17, 2014 at 11:50 AM
Post by: RXV on Feb 17, 2014 at 05:52 PM
Sorry. I looked at the specs of the tweeter (XT25SC90-04) and it is 4 ohms (using 2-6.8uf 1st order). So the cut-off is 3khz and not 1.5khz. Isn't it a bad idea to cut at this range?
Sir,
Hindi ba cut-off is around 5.5khz @ 4ohms? I think what sir Remington uses is an Intertechnik brand capacitor with a value of 6.8uf, if I'm correct yan gamit niya. I also have that kasi, and also tried it (series, 1st order) with the same Vifa ring radiator, with very very good results paired with a fullrange.
Yan lang nga, I haven't tried it with a DIY horn like sir Remington's nice creation hehe
Post by: camoteque on Feb 17, 2014 at 09:55 PM
were still in the process of tuning it sir but so far the outcome is well better than expected it enhances the gain and overall performance of the vifa. I only put 2, 6.8uf capacitors each tweeter and bi amp it using lepai with Audio Nirvana and Mark audio.
vinyl ang outer part and flat black spray paint inside sir.
nag tutuning pa kami ni kit master pero so far maganda na ang outcome well better than expected
Nakaparallel yata ang dalawang 6.8uf so It must be 3khz. Sensitive ang hearing natin sa frequency na yan kaya it's not good practice to cut at this range. But if the poster says, otherwise, who are we to argue. Kaya nga DIY eh.
Post by: RXV on Feb 17, 2014 at 10:21 PM
Nakaparallel yata ang dalawang 6.8uf so It must be 3khz. Sensitive ang hearing natin sa frequency na yan kaya it's not good practice to cut at this range. But if the poster says, otherwise, who are we to argue. Kaya nga DIY eh.
Oh, 2 capacitors ba on each tweeter? I was thinking na, one lang for each tweeter.
Bro remington, pa-demo nga ulit sa "showroom" mo :)
Post by: xbase on Feb 17, 2014 at 10:27 PM
tuned... :)
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/DSCN8835_zps5ffd2fd5.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/DSCN8835_zps5ffd2fd5.jpg.html)
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/DSCN8837_zpsba612c5d.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/DSCN8837_zpsba612c5d.jpg.html)
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/DSCN8832_zps44036440.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/DSCN8832_zps44036440.jpg.html)
Wow, nabihisan na! ang bilis ng proseso ah... paglaki ko gagayahin ko din yan...
Post by: remington on Feb 17, 2014 at 10:37 PM
Oh, 2 capacitors ba on each tweeter? I was thinking na, one lang for each tweeter.sure bro he he...
Bro remington, pa-demo nga ulit sa "showroom" mo :)
Wow, nabihisan na! ang bilis ng proseso ah... paglaki ko gagayahin ko din yan...he he he may stand pa yan bro para maipatong sa ulo ng alien.
Post by: remington on Feb 21, 2014 at 08:43 PM
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/DSCN8858_zpsf47533bb.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/DSCN8858_zpsf47533bb.jpg.html)
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/DSCN8866_zps8a8c0c71.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/DSCN8866_zps8a8c0c71.jpg.html)
Post by: markcrenz on Feb 22, 2014 at 12:18 PM
Have you run a frequency sweep? Walang comb filtering effect?
Post by: remington on Feb 22, 2014 at 12:58 PM
Post by: markcrenz on Feb 22, 2014 at 02:49 PM
Post by: Gino on Feb 22, 2014 at 02:58 PM
Post by: xbase on Feb 22, 2014 at 03:40 PM
I tried tri amping last night, this horn was powered by a lepai and my 2 other FR speakers are powered by tubes all of them are connected to a 3 output tube pre amp ganda ng harmony nilang tatlo mahirap i describe yung SQ, maganda para sa akin :) ;)
Ung nahihirapan sa bi-amping, tuturuan kayo ni Remington ng tri-amping, di pa kasama sub jan...
Post by: remington on Feb 22, 2014 at 04:23 PM
up and down ba ang bounce ng sound nito, hindi ba palaki? ::)
Post by: remington on Feb 22, 2014 at 04:26 PM
Ung nahihirapan sa bi-amping, tuturuan kayo ni Remington ng tri-amping, di pa kasama sub jan...experiment lang bro he he! ;) :) :)
Post by: RXV on Feb 22, 2014 at 07:59 PM
masarap kasi mag experiment lalo na pag maganda nagiging outcome thats the wonder and exitement of diy ^-^ kumbaga masarap kumain ng spaghetti pag maraming keso hehe (added attraction and flavor) wala lang color ;D para sa pandinig ko lang naman ^-^ ^-^ ^-^
up and down ba ang bounce ng sound nito, hindi ba palaki? ::)
Sige, next time na session ako diyan, may kasama pang spaghetti ha... hahaha
Post by: remington on Feb 22, 2014 at 08:51 PM
Sige, next time na session ako diyan, may kasama pang spaghetti ha... hahahaayos hehe...
Post by: tony on Feb 24, 2014 at 07:44 PM
Post by: remington on Feb 24, 2014 at 08:58 PM
@remington, baka gusto mong pag-aralan ito....http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/217298-square-pegs.htmlok ito master pwede pag experimentuhan he he!
Post by: remington on Feb 25, 2014 at 06:19 PM
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/DSCN8888_zps00028b08.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/DSCN8888_zps00028b08.jpg.html)
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/DSCN8891_zps62b41297.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/DSCN8891_zps62b41297.jpg.html)
testing :D
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/DSCN8894_zps8f0d4d58.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/DSCN8894_zps8f0d4d58.jpg.html)
will try a different appraoch an oval shape next time... ^-^
Post by: tony on Feb 25, 2014 at 06:28 PM
looks easy with 1/4 inch plywood, ano kaya resulta? :D
Post by: remington on Feb 25, 2014 at 06:33 PM
Post by: fredreadrick on Mar 16, 2014 at 05:58 PM
ok kaya ito as an enclosure?
engineered bamboo
(http://www.sidlakpinoy.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/08/engineeredbamboo_600-300x218.jpg)
Post by: Gino on Mar 16, 2014 at 06:18 PM
Post by: fredreadrick on Mar 16, 2014 at 06:34 PM
Iyan ang hinahap ko for my planned desk. Saan mayroon niyan?
eto ung site nila sir,
http://www.sidlakpinoy.com/products/engineered-bamboo-products
nag mail n ako wla pang reply
Post by: deist on Mar 16, 2014 at 06:54 PM
contemplating on the materials of my next project.
ok kaya ito as an enclosure?
engineered bamboo
(http://www.sidlakpinoy.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/08/engineeredbamboo_600-300x218.jpg)
Post by: fredreadrick on Mar 17, 2014 at 04:53 PM
no feedback yet from the supplier but from their site looks like di naman mahal gaano.
1200x600x12mm =P700
just one of my option.
Post by: RXV on Mar 17, 2014 at 10:02 PM
bro deist,
no feedback yet from the supplier but from their site looks like di naman mahal gaano.
1200x600x12mm =P700
just one of my option.
Actually medyo mahal rin, kung icocompute mo siya na parang 4x8' (standard size of regular plywood, aabot ito ng halos P3000, which is the price of 3 regular plywood na.
Medyo mahal nga, but it is very beautiful.
Sir Deist, ito ba yung ginamit mong wood for your Markaudio Alpair10P enclosure?
UPDATE: Actually yung binabanggit kong price ng regular plywood is for the 3/4" variant. Yung bamboo plywood pala na quoted price is for 1/2" variant. Mahal nga!
Post by: deist on Mar 18, 2014 at 09:22 AM
Sir Deist, ito ba yung ginamit mong wood for your Markaudio Alpair10P enclosure?
Bro, medyo manipis yang 12mm esp if you will use it in a big enclosure for your AN. magiging prominent ang wall resonance & the stability of the structure will be compromised (if without internal bracing).
bro deist,
no feedback yet from the supplier but from their site looks like di naman mahal gaano.
1200x600x12mm =P700
just one of my option.
Post by: Gino on Mar 18, 2014 at 09:52 AM
Post by: deist on Mar 18, 2014 at 09:59 AM
Diest are there half inch thick dark wood panels at Home Depot? I need it for a 34.5" x 34.5" table.
Post by: Gino on Mar 18, 2014 at 10:19 AM
Post by: Tsnad on Mar 18, 2014 at 10:40 AM
Meron bro but I'm not sure kung meron single cut ng size requirement mo. I forgot the name of the shop but it is inside Home Depot Alabang.
sir, pwede cut to size, i mean customized po... ^-^
Post by: Gino on Mar 18, 2014 at 11:07 AM
Post by: RXV on Mar 18, 2014 at 01:37 PM
Hindi sir. Ang ginamit ko is engineered solid wood from Pateco. I was able to get it on sale sa Home Depot, total cost for the pensils 3.5K ;)
Bro, medyo manipis yang 12mm esp if you will use it in a big enclosure for your AN. magiging prominent ang wall resonance & the stability of the structure will be compromised (if without internal bracing).
Oh ok thanks. Ganda kasi ng gawa mo e, parang gusto kong gumawa ng isang box na ganyan din ang wood na ginamit :)
Post by: deist on Mar 18, 2014 at 05:36 PM
Pero kung may makikita kang engineered bamboo na medyo makapal mas maganda yun. Parang hardwood stiffness nun.
Oh ok thanks. Ganda kasi ng gawa mo e, parang gusto kong gumawa ng isang box na ganyan din ang wood na ginamit :)
Post by: wufei on Apr 24, 2014 at 07:44 AM
Post by: Gino on Apr 24, 2014 at 09:23 AM
Post by: tony on Apr 24, 2014 at 09:37 AM
transfer of technology is inevitable....
Post by: wufei on Apr 24, 2014 at 09:51 AM
Dai-Ichi is OEM for so many branded speakers, Martin Logan is one, bantay sarado nga lang ng ML engineers ang production lines....:D
transfer of technology is inevitable....
Post by: tony on Apr 24, 2014 at 11:18 AM
master tony, brand ba ng dai ichi yung phaser speakers? thank you
i would think so...;)
kung magagawi ka sa Daichi sa megamall, you can talk to John, he will tell you more...
Post by: wufei on Apr 24, 2014 at 11:33 AM
Kung mura eh di bilhin mo na. Report back.
Post by: nods on May 07, 2014 at 11:35 AM
Can anyone recommend a diy bookshelf speaker model? My budget is around 15k-20k (parts only, box cost not included). I can order online and ship it to my tito who is coming home this July.
Kasya kaya sa budget pag may ribbon tweeter?
Post by: audiojunkie on May 07, 2014 at 12:58 PM
Hi guys! Im planning to build a DIY speaker. My friend, who has a furniture business will guide me with box making.
Can anyone recommend a diy bookshelf speaker model? My budget is around 15k-20k (parts only, box cost not included). I can order online and ship it to my tito who is coming home this July.
Kasya kaya sa budget pag may ribbon tweeter?
Model or type depends on what use of it. For music I suggest to look for dipole type if you don't want to dip in OB building. for HT use check what is available in the local market. You will be fine with it.
Post by: JoeyGS on May 07, 2014 at 01:07 PM
You can purchase the drivers in the US, Singapore and other countries.
This is the singapore website: http://markaudio-singapore.com/ (http://markaudio-singapore.com/)
DIY build forum discussions: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/markaudio/ (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/markaudio/)
Box plans for Mark Audio Drivers: http://frugal-phile.com/boxes-markaudio.html (http://frugal-phile.com/boxes-markaudio.html)
PDVD Mark Audio DIY thread: http://www.pinoydvd.com/index.php/topic,185648.0.html (http://www.pinoydvd.com/index.php/topic,185648.0.html)
Good luck!
Hi guys! Im planning to build a DIY speaker. My friend, who has a furniture business will guide me with box making.
Can anyone recommend a diy bookshelf speaker model? My budget is around 15k-20k (parts only, box cost not included). I can order online and ship it to my tito who is coming home this July.
Kasya kaya sa budget pag may ribbon tweeter?
Post by: nods on May 07, 2014 at 03:54 PM
Wow, the various designs for Mark Audio are mind boggling!
What are the disadvantages of a fullrange driver as opposed to the standatd woofer / tweeter combo.
Post by: Gino on May 07, 2014 at 04:06 PM
1) Limited effective range that depends on each model of full range speaker. Some may need a sub or bass unit and or a super tweeter. Not all.
2) The notch in response typically produced by some full range speakers that have whizzer cones. Some describe this as shouting mids.
Advantage: No crossovers. You get full details produced by your amp (if it's highly resolving)
Well designed full range drivers, or more appropriately...wide band drivers, have no problems at all. My discontinued Fostex FE167E wide band speaker sounds very good but needs help with bass. I added super tweeters for presence and a sub for impact.
Post by: remington on May 07, 2014 at 04:12 PM
Post by: JoeyGS on May 07, 2014 at 04:43 PM
Suggest to listen to members with this type of speakers before deciding.
Yup, mainly for music.
Wow, the various designs for Mark Audio are mind boggling!
What are the disadvantages of a fullrange driver as opposed to the standatd woofer / tweeter combo.
Post by: audiojunkie on May 07, 2014 at 06:14 PM
A well design multi drivers will produce greater details and clarity of music. Less distortion for every each drivers, not force to produce frequency almost to their break-up limit.
Post by: tony on May 07, 2014 at 06:38 PM
A well design multi drivers will produce greater details and clarity of music. Less distortion for every each drivers, not force to produce frequency almost to their break-up limit.
agreed, but requires a lot of effort and engineering not required by full rangers....again YMMV..
the thing to do is audition, audition and more audition before you make up your mind...
Post by: audiojunkie on May 07, 2014 at 06:44 PM
Post by: nods on May 07, 2014 at 06:55 PM
add Audio Nirvana to your list sir I assure you it will not dissappoint. Try to audition it, there are many AN users here in PDVD already. I for one can accommodate you if you are near the Marikina area :). I no longer need the help of a powered sub as these babies already sounded as if it has a sub :D and speaker placement is not difficult, it has a very wide sweet spot ^-^
Aha! My girlfriend lives in Marikina. Near Blue Wave. Sakto, ill pm you :D
Post by: remington on May 07, 2014 at 07:05 PM
Aha! My girlfriend lives in Marikina. Near Blue Wave. Sakto, ill pm you :Dah ok malapit lang ako sa bluewave sir. PM nalang kung kelan.
Post by: tony on May 07, 2014 at 07:24 PM
Sa PBB gusto ko audition... >:D ;D
late ka na....nagsimula na yung show....
Post by: Gino on Jun 09, 2014 at 02:52 PM
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/IMG_1597_zpscfc1eb2f.jpg)
Post by: RXV on Jun 09, 2014 at 03:06 PM
Post by: Gino on Jun 09, 2014 at 03:17 PM
Post by: RXV on Jun 09, 2014 at 08:06 PM
Post by: Gino on Jun 09, 2014 at 08:21 PM
Post by: JojoD818 on Jun 10, 2014 at 01:28 PM
My 4.5" fullrange speakers arrived. They sent the wrong ports. I ordered 2"x7" they sent 3"x12". It's ok. I have time. I am still ordering a Rockwell Versacut saw. I planning to DIY 5L ported boxes.
Advance congrats sa project mo bro... charge na ng battery, linis na ng lens, at ilabas na ang tripod. ;D
Post by: Gino on Jun 10, 2014 at 01:36 PM
Post by: Cjtjader on Jun 10, 2014 at 02:41 PM
Post by: remington on Jun 10, 2014 at 02:43 PM
Huntiing pa ng mdf. May alam ba kayong stores ng 18mm mdf QC area.try igross marketing at new york street near betty go belmonte lrt station
Post by: RXV on Jun 10, 2014 at 05:44 PM
Huntiing pa ng mdf. May alam ba kayong stores ng 18mm mdf QC area.
When I was still in QC, I bought MDF from a wood supplier along Roosevelt Avenue in San Francisco Del Monte, QC.
Topwood yata pangalan. P1200 per 4'x8' sheet, but that was around a year ago, di ko alam kung tumaas na price.
Post by: Gino on Jun 10, 2014 at 08:35 PM
Post by: deist on Jun 11, 2014 at 01:55 PM
Post by: Gino on Jun 11, 2014 at 02:03 PM
Post by: arbitrage on Jun 13, 2014 at 09:16 AM
hehehehe...
Okay lang ba kahit 50 watter na amp ang gamitin para sa fullrange build or advisable talaga na low powered SETs?
Post by: Gino on Jun 13, 2014 at 10:03 AM
Be warned though that this route is not cheaper. But for us set users, it is the practical way to go.
Post by: tony on Jun 13, 2014 at 10:15 AM
Nakaka inspire mga full range builders parang gusto ko sumali sa kulto na to....
hehehehe...
Okay lang ba kahit 50 watter na amp ang gamitin para sa fullrange build or advisable talaga na low powered SETs?
depende yan sa kung ano magugustohan ng tenga mo...ikaw ang makikinig....;)
Post by: Gino on Jun 17, 2014 at 12:58 PM
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/Versacut_zpsda467052.jpg)[
Post by: rochie on Jun 17, 2014 at 01:32 PM
My DIY fullrange speaker project side by side with my fullrange array, next will be the paint job.
Post by: arbitrage on Jun 17, 2014 at 07:26 PM
Game on! Still waiting for the ports. Next up, finding wood and clamps.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/Versacut_zpsda467052.jpg)[
Exciting!! Update us on this build. Konti na lang parang gusto ko na din sumubok mag DIY ng full range. Lakas maka BI ng thread na 'to... Hehehehe...
Post by: Gino on Jun 17, 2014 at 07:53 PM
This week I'll shop for wood and clamps.
Post by: Gino on Jun 19, 2014 at 01:38 PM
Post by: fredreadrick on Jun 19, 2014 at 02:00 PM
P1200 pa din ang 18mm mdf sa Topwood, Roosevelt. Problem is buo. I need a way to transport a whole board. My saw is 110v so I cannot cut on site.Sir, baka may malapit na wood workshop dun, pa-cut mo na like what i did para lang magkasya sa "car".
Post by: RXV on Jun 19, 2014 at 02:02 PM
P1200 pa din ang 18mm mdf sa Topwood, Roosevelt. Problem is buo. I need a way to transport a whole board. My saw is 110v so I cannot cut on site.
Bro Gino,
Did you ask them if they can do cutting services for a minimal fee? Alam ko kasi malaki yung TopWood na yan e, nasa likod ng shop nila yung cutting facilities nila and for their wood storage, like a small warehouse, parang may nakita akong circular table saw sila years back when I went there.
Post by: Gino on Jun 19, 2014 at 02:07 PM
Post by: remington on Jun 19, 2014 at 02:50 PM
Post by: dana on Jun 19, 2014 at 03:06 PM
They said they don't cut. The can allow ac use for a personal saw. However 110v ang saws ko. Anyway, I'll start looking for a big vehicle.
P1200 pa din ang 18mm mdf sa Topwood, Roosevelt. Problem is buo. I need a way to transport a whole board. My saw is 110v so I cannot cut on site.
padeliver, if ok per remington...
else, do you have a stepdown transformer (100V or 110V) that you can bring?
pede rin makihiram sa Topwood if they have...
500w transformer may do the job (?)...pedeng bitbitin na rin
Post by: JojoD818 on Jun 19, 2014 at 08:06 PM
Game on! Still waiting for the ports. Next up, finding wood and clamps.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/Versacut_zpsda467052.jpg)[
Congrats! Umpisahan na ang project bro. ;)
They said they don't cut. The can allow ac use for a personal saw. However 110v ang saws ko. Anyway, I'll start looking for a big vehicle.
Magdala ka na din ng transformer. ;D
Post by: Oldboyracer on Jun 19, 2014 at 08:37 PM
Post by: Gino on Jun 19, 2014 at 11:54 PM
Post by: timber715 on Jun 20, 2014 at 02:18 AM
This is available locally if anyone is looking for a similar tool....
The Dremel Saw Max... Locally also relates to 220volts plus support....
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Tools/Pages/CategoryProducts.aspx?catid=2101
Post by: JoeyGS on Jun 20, 2014 at 02:38 AM
If you don't mind me asking, what was the speaker box design you used in your previous mark audio bookshelf?
Nice toy to have handy Gino, happy to see you dipping your hand at it.
This is available locally if anyone is looking for a similar tool....
The Dremel Saw Max... Locally also relates to 220volts plus support....
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Tools/Pages/CategoryProducts.aspx?catid=2101
Post by: timber715 on Jun 20, 2014 at 03:26 AM
Welcome back brader.I was never gone naman, just busy lang...
If you don't mind me asking, what was the speaker box design you used in your previous mark audio bookshelf?
Post by: dana on Jun 20, 2014 at 08:45 AM
Can a 500w transformer handle this 4amp 110v saw?
yes. 440 watts consumption.
Post by: Gino on Jun 20, 2014 at 10:53 AM
Post by: RXV on Jun 20, 2014 at 12:12 PM
Baka maunahan mo pa ako :)
Post by: Gino on Jun 20, 2014 at 12:21 PM
Post by: RXV on Jun 20, 2014 at 01:18 PM
I am looking at this as a practice box. Bonus na lang kung maganda lumabas. I'm still waiting for the ports. They sent wrong ones. Anyone in need of 3"x12" ports?
Sell the port at the marketplace, may kukuha niyan, you normally don't see 3"x12" ports available locally, so it's a rare find
Post by: JojoD818 on Jun 20, 2014 at 02:43 PM
Can a 500w transformer handle this 4amp 110v saw?
For continued use I recommend a 1000W transformer, but you can get away with a 500W naman just maintain a lower duty cycle.
Post by: JojoD818 on Jun 20, 2014 at 02:45 PM
I am looking at this as a practice box. Bonus na lang kung maganda lumabas. I'm still waiting for the ports. They sent wrong ones. Anyone in need of 3"x12" ports?
- usually makes perfect...
Post by: Gino on Jun 20, 2014 at 05:51 PM
Post by: Gino on Jun 24, 2014 at 03:28 PM
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/boxpiecescu_zpse7821ca9.jpg)
Backs and sides. I really like this Rockwell Versacut. It is very light but very able. The laser guide is very handy indeed.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/Boxmockup_zps6a0e447e.jpg)
Mockup. These are tiny 5L ported bookshelf speakers.
Post by: Gino on Jun 24, 2014 at 06:32 PM
Pieces mocked up
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/Mockuptop_zps98362298.jpg)
Post by: RXV on Jun 24, 2014 at 07:51 PM
Did you use a router to cut the holes? Very precise circles indeed :)
I hope to finish mine by next month.
Post by: Gino on Jun 24, 2014 at 08:13 PM
Can't wait for you to finish your speakers. True labor of love. Anong stage na siya?
Post by: RXV on Jun 24, 2014 at 09:43 PM
Mine's in the finishing stage, the enclosure's done, but the finishing is very challenging and time consuming.
Dami ko kasing dinagdag na arte e hehe.
By the way, the bracing was worth the extra effort. The enclosure is so solid based on the knock test.
Post by: Gino on Jun 24, 2014 at 10:11 PM
Post by: timber715 on Jun 25, 2014 at 01:06 AM
...and it begins.Practice piece yan brader right? Sigurado ako hindi yan ang plywood ni filtra eh... On the otherhand, you do good work...
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/boxpiecescu_zpse7821ca9.jpg)
Backs and sides. I really like this Rockwell Versacut. It is very light but very able. The laser guide is very handy indeed.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/Boxmockup_zps6a0e447e.jpg)
Mockup. These are tiny 5L ported bookshelf speakers.
Cheers
Post by: Gino on Jun 25, 2014 at 07:29 AM
Started sanding the pieces for accurate fit. When mocked up, the back edges are not flush. That will need attention when the main box is glued.
I am happy with the progress. Right now I am resting from yesterday's build. I will do a hardware run this afternoon.
Post by: deist on Jun 25, 2014 at 11:00 AM
@RXV - are you done breaking in your 10Ps? what enclosures did you build? post na MA thread 8)
Post by: Tsnad on Jun 25, 2014 at 11:11 AM
Post by: Gino on Jun 25, 2014 at 11:25 AM
Nauwi ako sa plywood kasi walang store gusto magdeliver or cut ng 18mm mdf sheet. Formaply, my neighbor pumayag kasi I live 4 blocks from them. They had 15mm ply which was what Fostex specified.
Kinana ko na kasi priority ko is SQ. Solid naman ply so sa ease of finishing lang nagkatalo.
Post by: Gino on Jun 25, 2014 at 02:02 PM
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/GluedBoxes_zpsb1f79277.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/SandedBoxTop_zpse91f5641.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/SandedBoxFront_zpsd0862129.jpg)
Post by: RXV on Jun 25, 2014 at 02:44 PM
You're doing great Gino. I agree with RXV, those are perfect circles. Keep us posted ;)
@RXV - are you done breaking in your 10Ps? what enclosures did you build? post na MA thread 8)
Yes, they are broken in already, more than 150 hours on them. I'm building a version of a modified Pensil. Post ko next time if it's already finished. Matrabaho ang detailing/finishing e. Para pasado sa akin, dapat kunwari ie-exhibit sa standards ng November HiFi show hahaha
Post by: Gino on Jun 25, 2014 at 06:48 PM
Fostex FE126EN in 5 liter ported box
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/BoxwithDriver_zpsf8632342.jpg)
Post by: RXV on Jun 25, 2014 at 07:53 PM
Post by: Gino on Jun 25, 2014 at 08:53 PM
Post by: Oldboyracer on Jun 26, 2014 at 08:33 AM
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/BoxwithDriverTop_zpsbdd3a1a2.jpg)
Fostex FE126EN in 5 liter ported box
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/BoxwithDriver_zpsf8632342.jpg)
Coming along nicely Gino :)
Post by: Gino on Jun 26, 2014 at 09:05 AM
Post by: deist on Jun 26, 2014 at 09:59 AM
They sounded so good I was apprehensive to remove them to finish the job.
Kaabang-abang yan sir ah! give us your impressions sa MA thread when finished. thanks!
Yes, they are broken in already, more than 150 hours on them. I'm building a version of a modified Pensil. Post ko next time if it's already finished. Matrabaho ang detailing/finishing e. Para pasado sa akin, dapat kunwari ie-exhibit sa standards ng November HiFi show hahaha
Post by: Gino on Jun 26, 2014 at 10:46 AM
Mukhang intricate ang speakers ni RXV. Hindi simple box. Boy I can't imagine working on a large enclosure. The challenge I had was making accurate cuts. Bigger panels will be more demanding.
Post by: Gino on Jun 26, 2014 at 03:36 PM
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/FullAssembledTop_zps19787ae1.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/FullyAssembledSides_zps5fbf84f0.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/FullyAssembledBack_zps3b87d75d.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/FullyAssembledTopDetail_zpsf700a2e4.jpg)
Post by: JoeyGS on Jun 26, 2014 at 04:38 PM
Which panel is removable to allow internal stuffing adjustments?
Post by: Gino on Jun 26, 2014 at 04:51 PM
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/FinishedwithMacLeft_zps5b16cfc4.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/FinishedwithMacRight_zpsed8eb885.jpg)
Post by: deist on Jun 26, 2014 at 05:02 PM
Post by: Gino on Jun 26, 2014 at 05:05 PM
Post by: deist on Jun 26, 2014 at 05:10 PM
Post by: Gino on Jun 26, 2014 at 05:14 PM
Post by: deist on Jun 26, 2014 at 07:53 PM
Post by: timber715 on Jun 26, 2014 at 08:02 PM
Post by: Gino on Jun 26, 2014 at 08:21 PM
Post by: JojoD818 on Jun 26, 2014 at 09:06 PM
first dibs ako sa Denon ha... :P
Post by: markcrenz on Jun 26, 2014 at 09:20 PM
Yup. Flush mounted. Keeping things simple.Wouldn't that be surface mounted?
Seems nakalabas ng konti driver face, tama ba brader?
Post by: Gino on Jun 26, 2014 at 09:38 PM
Post by: RXV on Jun 26, 2014 at 09:38 PM
I would also suggest a removable panel.drivers (esp FRs) reveal their true character after more than a hundred hours & adjustment in stuffing will allow you to tweak nuances in the sound & experiment ;)
If I were in Gino's shoes, I would make the bookshelf as is: without a removable back panel.
The bookshelf is so small, you could easily put in stuffing from the front hole naman if needed. That way, solidly sealed ang enclosure, and without those pesky mutliple screws at the back. para buo na ang veneer :)
I made my Pensil without a removable back panel, well, sort of. I'll show them next time :)
And yes I agree, FR's need a lot of break-in time and stuffing is very useful in fine tuning the overall sound characteristics of the speaker.
Post by: RXV on Jun 26, 2014 at 09:41 PM
It was just a plain hole for the speaker. The mount just laid flat on it.
I think that particular Fostex driver doesn't need to be flush mounted as I've read somewhere in diyaudio.
I also seen that driver being mounted on floorstanders such as the frugal horn mk3. And I don't think they flush mount(ed) them.
Post by: Gino on Jun 26, 2014 at 09:52 PM
Magtatagal ako sa block sanding he he. Wala akong sander.
Post by: RXV on Jun 26, 2014 at 09:57 PM
I agree with accessibility through the speaker hole. Abot ng kamay ang bawat sulok.
Magtatagal ako sa block sanding he he. Wala akong sander.
Get ready, that's where the real fun (and sweat) begins haha
Post by: Gino on Jun 26, 2014 at 09:59 PM
Post by: deist on Jun 27, 2014 at 09:49 AM
Post by: arbitrage on Jun 27, 2014 at 11:03 AM
The back panel has light adhesive. The speakers sound great as is. I might keep it this way. I'll see after break-in if it needs tuning. The sound is more revealing and dynamic than my Denons SCM51. Higher headroom which accounts for more realism. Much more air than my stock Fostex FE167E without supertweeters. Bass is adequate with a sub. I can do without a sub for casual ambient listening.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/FinishedwithMacLeft_zps5b16cfc4.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/FinishedwithMacRight_zpsed8eb885.jpg)
Nice!
Ang Cute....
More sound descriptions upon break in please.
How do you tune a diy speaker box to a certain low frequency?
(I keep hearing to tune "this box" to "number" hz)
:)
Post by: Gino on Jun 27, 2014 at 11:32 AM
The main tuning is by design. Box internal volume, structure, port dimensions if any.
In my case I talked with full range guru Bob Brines of Fostex MLTL fame. He suggested this box. 5 liters, tuned to 100hz. The smoothens the midrange up. I built it to the letter and the result is fantastic.
Post by: deist on Jun 27, 2014 at 12:45 PM
(http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r275/deist1/Pensil73.jpg) (http://s146.photobucket.com/user/deist1/media/Pensil73.jpg.html)
Post by: Gino on Jun 27, 2014 at 03:12 PM
Post by: deist on Jun 27, 2014 at 03:39 PM
Post by: Gino on Jun 27, 2014 at 03:43 PM
Post by: deist on Jun 27, 2014 at 03:58 PM
I suppose the final appearance is a wait and see. it depends on how the wood will absorb the stain. I am hoping the puttied areas won't deviate much in shade. Anyway I am so happy with the sound that looks comes secondary now.
Post by: markcrenz on Jun 28, 2014 at 08:22 AM
Oo nga naman you can access the internals via speaker hole because this is surface mounted, if this is flush mounted you'd be singing a different tune, it's difficult to remove a flush mounted driver after a while dahil kumapit na & very easy to damage the drivers trying to get it out ;)I'd worry more about the effects of diffraction than the miniscule effect of stuffing a small sealed box.
Post by: deist on Jun 28, 2014 at 10:07 AM
The box is ported not sealed, the small whole below the driver is the port/vent. I wouldn't call the effect of stuffing as minuscule, having played with stuffing I could say that the effect on the overall sound is significant to a point that the before & after will give you a set of complete opposite emotions ;)
quote author=markcrenz link=topic=22682.msg2139608#msg2139608 date=1403914962]
I'd worry more about the effects of diffraction than the miniscule effect of stuffing a small sealed box.
[/quote]
Post by: arbitrage on Jun 28, 2014 at 08:57 PM
Post by: m0b1u5 on Jun 29, 2014 at 10:19 AM
Post by: Gino on Jun 29, 2014 at 10:25 AM
Post by: RXV on Jun 29, 2014 at 11:24 AM
I used Stikwell. It came in a clear plastic bag inside a plastic jar. Not very elegant. Messy. But it applied easily, was tacky, dried fast and held well. I would have preferred those yellowish bottled wood glues.
For two very flat and flush surfaces together, I use Elmer's wood glue, it's very strong once dried fully, and dries a clear/transparent color.
Stikwel is also good, but I prefer Elemer's wood glue.
But Stikwel has it's advantages: it's thicker (so it doesn't run or drip easily), it's better than Elmer's when the two wood that you're connecting isn't that flat flush (may konting inconsistency/gap), and since it's thick, I use it as a sealent for enclosures. You can't do that with Elmer's since it's thin and easily drips/spreads out. And also it's cheaper than Elmer's (and other wood glues).
There are other stronger/durable wood glues out there (such as Pioneer Contruction bond and No More Nails, which are NOT water based, and way stronger based on forums), but as much as possible, I like handling water based glues such as Elmer's and Stikwel since it can be cleaned/wiped easily (tubig lang katapat, especially your hands), and is strong enough for indoor applications.
BTW, did you know that Stikwel also sells a 250g plastic sachet version? Parang yung mga Elastoseal sachets, you just cut the end of the plastic and apply as necessary. No more mess, no more wastage, mahirap nga yung Stikwel na nasa loob ng plastic jar, I hate that. Unfortunately, very limited lang nakita kong pouch version, I just see it at Cherry Foodarama Grocery. Wala pa akong nakikita sa iba.
Post by: Gino on Jun 29, 2014 at 11:31 AM
I agree with your comment about the thickness of Stikwell. I was able to build layers when needed and fill gaps. Cleanup of hands was easy. Just wipe it off. Let residue dry and rub off. It did not wash off with water.
Post by: RXV on Jun 29, 2014 at 11:47 AM
The Stikwel on the plastic jar is a nightmare for me. It's very hard and time consuming to use, since you're going to have to use a stick of some sort to apply to wood, you're hands get messy (hindi maiiwasan), and there is a lot of wastage (matutuyo ang ibang glue when exposed to air).
With the pouch/sachet version, I get to use around 95% of it all the time, all without the mess/hassle. And it's priced same as the plastic jar version (per gram). The bottle version is I think almost double the price (per gram).
(http://s3.amazonaws.com/save22.com-product-picture/2012-11-04_193305.932660944D053E8BFC136EB93207682F85ACA6)
Post by: Gino on Jun 29, 2014 at 11:59 AM
I saw Elmers multi-purpose glue (white). Does this have a different formula from the wood glue?
Post by: RXV on Jun 29, 2014 at 12:05 PM
Post by: Gino on Jun 29, 2014 at 12:38 PM
Post by: m0b1u5 on Jun 29, 2014 at 01:14 PM
Post by: Gino on Jun 29, 2014 at 01:24 PM
Nothing wrong with using them provided you use them for your intended effect.
Post by: deist on Jun 29, 2014 at 02:28 PM
My problem with acoustic foam is they tend to have closed cells. This means they displace internal volume. To me, that is the biggest way they influence sound rather than dissipating or absorbing sound. If I need help in that area, I will use wool carpet liners.
Nothing wrong with using them provided you use them for your intended effect.
Totally agree with Gino here, wool felt is one if not the most effective lining/stuffing but it's hard to source locally, I've been looking for it since last year. Marami sa ebay puro international sellers, quite expensive with shipping & duties.
Another option is fiberglass batting but it's a health hazard when inhaled esp if you will be using it in a vented enclosure. Rockwool is an alternative but there are still debates about its effect on health when inhaled. Another option is polyfill (stuffing for pillows & stuff toys), madaling humanap, cheap & quite effective, recommended sa DIYaudio. Look for 100% polyester type.
If you are keen on using foam, look for open cell type. I think meron si Uratex I just don't have any idea about the cost.
Post by: timber715 on Jun 29, 2014 at 08:02 PM
I believe the Elmers multi-purpose glue is different from the Elmer's wood glue (beige color, around P100)
Good to know. I will look at the groceries and hardwares here. I also like to try the bottled glues.The only difference in formulation between the white (multi purpose glue) and the yellow (wood glue) is the open time. And Elmer's glue isn't water based. PVC glue sya that you can clean up with water.
I saw Elmers multi-purpose glue (white). Does this have a different formula from the wood glue?
Post by: Gino on Jun 29, 2014 at 09:53 PM
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/P6290112_zpse8c1be15.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/P6290116_zpsc992c070.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/P6290115_zps07de8d25.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/P6290114_zpsee111478.jpg)
Post by: RXV on Jun 29, 2014 at 11:18 PM
The only difference in formulation between the white (multi purpose glue) and the yellow (wood glue) is the open time. And Elmer's glue isn't water based. PVC glue sya that you can clean up with water.
Thanks for the clarification :)
What do you mean by open time? Drying time?
Post by: RXV on Jun 29, 2014 at 11:18 PM
Another day of rough sanding. Worked on aligning the edges and keeping the edges square. Sanding is a b**ch.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/P6290112_zpse8c1be15.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/P6290116_zpsc992c070.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/P6290115_zps07de8d25.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/P6290114_zpsee111478.jpg)
Looking good. Sa sanding din ako napipikon hehe
Post by: Gino on Jun 29, 2014 at 11:24 PM
Post by: timber715 on Jun 29, 2014 at 11:55 PM
Thanks for the clarification :)Not really drying time as both need 24 hours to fully cure or dry. Open time is more on the time it sets. Yung yellow kasi will harden after a shorter period of time unlike the white one. Tight fitting joints will be impossible to fit if the glue initially sets. That is why several glue from manufacturers have different open time, kasi you will encounter assembling a project that requires a lot of joints to be done in one pass. Example would be a baby crib with lots of bars. These bars need to be glued at the same time, pag maliit ang open time.... Sakit sa ulo!
What do you mean by open time? Drying time?
Post by: RXV on Jun 30, 2014 at 05:04 PM
Not really drying time as both need 24 hours to fully cure or dry. Open time is more on the time it sets. Yung yellow kasi will harden after a shorter period of time unlike the white one. Tight fitting joints will be impossible to fit if the glue initially sets. That is why several glue from manufacturers have different open time, kasi you will encounter assembling a project that requires a lot of joints to be done in one pass. Example would be a baby crib with lots of bars. These bars need to be glued at the same time, pag maliit ang open time.... Sakit sa ulo!
Okay, thanks for the clarification.
So you mean, if you're not pressed for time (ex. overnight drying), the Elmer's "multi-purpose" white glue will have the same strength properties of the Elmer's "wood" glue? Malayo rin kasi ang price ng multi-purpose sa wood glue e
Post by: timber715 on Jun 30, 2014 at 10:43 PM
Okay, thanks for the clarification.Yes... They have the same formulation. Clamping time also is affected by open time btw. The yellow glue can be unclamped after 45 mins to an hour and the joint should hold. On the white glue, it should be safe to remove the clamps after 3 hours.... After 24 hours of curing time, they are the same....
So you mean, if you're not pressed for time (ex. overnight drying), the Elmer's "multi-purpose" white glue will have the same strength properties of the Elmer's "wood" glue? Malayo rin kasi ang price ng multi-purpose sa wood glue e
Post by: JojoD818 on Jul 02, 2014 at 10:54 AM
Another day of rough sanding. Worked on aligning the edges and keeping the edges square. Sanding is a b**ch.
Buhay na buhay ang mga kanto... pag may nauntog diyan putok ang ulo... >:D
My speakers are small pa he he. I can't imagine working on a floorstander without an orbital sander.
Magagamit mo din yun sander sa finishing... ;)
Post by: RXV on Jul 02, 2014 at 11:52 AM
Yes... They have the same formulation. Clamping time also is affected by open time btw. The yellow glue can be unclamped after 45 mins to an hour and the joint should hold. On the white glue, it should be safe to remove the clamps after 3 hours.... After 24 hours of curing time, they are the same....
Thanks for the info :)
Post by: Gino on Jul 02, 2014 at 11:57 AM
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/FinalPuttyFront_zpsc246ba90.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/FinalPuttyBack_zps2bac0abb.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/FinalPuttyTop_zpsf92a36ca.jpg)
Post by: audiojunkie on Jul 02, 2014 at 12:17 PM
Ganda na...! Looking forward to final wood finish..
Post by: Gino on Jul 02, 2014 at 12:23 PM
Post by: arbitrage on Jul 02, 2014 at 12:42 PM
Cant wait for a sound review.
Got inspired by your build Gino, sama ako sa group buy ng Audio Nirvana. Planning on building bookshelf speakers din lang.
:)
Post by: Gino on Jul 02, 2014 at 12:56 PM
Post by: RXV on Jul 02, 2014 at 01:26 PM
Post by: arbitrage on Jul 02, 2014 at 04:22 PM
Yup if that group buy pushes through, there will be a lot of building soon.
You guys got any suggestions on what AN driver size I should get for a bookshelf build for a small 22 sqm room about 8 feet in height?
Post by: arbitrage on Jul 02, 2014 at 08:25 PM
Stuffings, liners, deadeners, diameter and length of ports all affect how sound is produced. While theories exists, it's really tuning by ear.
The main tuning is by design. Box internal volume, structure, port dimensions if any.
In my case I talked with full range guru Bob Brines of Fostex MLTL fame. He suggested this box. 5 liters, tuned to 100hz. The smoothens the midrange up. I built it to the letter and the result is fantastic.
How were you able to get in touch with Bob Brines?
Post by: RXV on Jul 02, 2014 at 10:53 PM
Next step, drill holes for hardware. Then apply sanding sealer. I will be testing stain & finish on scraps soon.
Gino, ingat ingat lang sa sanding sealer, that's where I did a slight mistake and had to re-sand EVERYTHING again.
If it's Ace Hardware brand, don't expect it to dry as quick as the instructions say. It will dry, but it easily and quickly clogs sandpaper (it's actually very tricky to sand, dapat pantay ang pag-sand mo to all areas). Slow curing time for me.
But for me, I think you need sanding sealer, para pantay ang stain mo. Based on my experience, if you don't use sanding sealer, expect areas with bigger pores and more grain (such as the ply lines) to absorb more stain and therefore appear darker than the other areas. A necessary evil if I would say so.
Post by: Gino on Jul 02, 2014 at 10:57 PM
Post by: RXV on Jul 02, 2014 at 11:12 PM
You guys got any suggestions on what AN driver size I should get for a bookshelf build for a small 22 sqm room about 8 feet in height?
6.5" for me would be optimum. Kapag 8" naman, parang masyadong malaki for bookshelf speakers especially if your planning to put it on top of a table or for nearfield listening. Pwede rin yung 3" but of course don't expect much bass to come out of it (compared to it's bigger brothers) lalo na kung bookshelf lang gagawin mo.
Kung kaya mo floorstanders, floorstanders na lang para pati bass buo, based on the design baffle of AN.
Yung can ask assistance from Bob Brines by either posting in DIYAudio or contact him directly (he has his own website)
Post by: timber715 on Jul 02, 2014 at 11:29 PM
Gino, ingat ingat lang sa sanding sealer, that's where I did a slight mistake and had to re-sand EVERYTHING again.The sanding sealer with the Ace brand is Oil based, hence the drying time is 24 hours. I use lacquer based sanding sealer when possible such as the ones from Boysen.
If it's Ace Hardware brand, don't expect it to dry as quick as the instructions say. It will dry, but it easily and quickly clogs sandpaper (it's actually very tricky to sand, dapat pantay ang pag-sand mo to all areas). Slow curing time for me.
But for me, I think you need sanding sealer, para pantay ang stain mo. Based on my experience, if you don't use sanding sealer, expect areas with bigger pores and more grain (such as the ply lines) to absorb more stain and therefore appear darker than the other areas. A necessary evil if I would say so.
Ace sells this para mas mag match sa other finish in their line which is oil based as well. But using lacquer based finish under oil based ones is fine as long as they given proper drying time. The problem arises when lacquer based finish is used over oil based finishes...
Once properly dried they both sand easy, unless the coat is too thick and part has not properly cured or dried.
Post by: RXV on Jul 02, 2014 at 11:39 PM
The only reason why I bought Ace Sanding Sealer was because I also bought Ace Polyurethane varnish, para siguradong match at compatible.
If not for that, I would have also bought the Boysen na lang, much cheaper.
Oh well. Thanks!
Post by: Gino on Jul 03, 2014 at 09:12 AM
2) How much time does Boysen laquer sanding sealer need to dry?
3) I will be using Boysen sanding sealer. Do I use this as is or does it need to be thinned?
Post by: deist on Jul 03, 2014 at 09:14 AM
I suggest you chamfer the backside of the driver holes like in the photos below. This is a common practice now among DIYers, by doing it the soundwaves entering the enclosure will not hit a "wall".This will avoid baffle mouth diffraction & distortion.
(http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/chamfer_files/chamfering_B.gif)
(http://diyaudioprojects.com/Speakers/Fostex-FX120-ML-TQWT/Fostex-FX120-ML-TQWT-Chamfer.jpg)
hope this helps.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/FinalPuttyFront_zpsc246ba90.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/FinalPuttyTop_zpsf92a36ca.jpg)
Post by: RXV on Jul 03, 2014 at 10:12 AM
1) Please confirm...oil based finish over laquer sealer is ok. Laquer finish over oil based sealer is not ok.
2) How much time does Boysen laquer sanding sealer need to dry?
3) I will be using Boysen sanding sealer. Do I use this as is or does it need to be thinned?
Sir Timber may answer those questions for you :)
But for the stains (in my opinion):
The Boysen (as well as brands such as Bronco and Hudson) are way cheaper, but for some reason, I'm not that impressed with the stain finish, parang may halong paint (it hides the grains, slightly unnatural look). (FYI: I haven't literally tried ALL color stains naman)
I like the more expensive stains locally such as Konig, Zar, and Ace (based on actual testing/demo), the stain looks more natural for me without hiding/sealing the grains of the wood. And also, I think Konig sells a small (1/4L?) can version, so hindi masakit sa bulsa. Kasya sigurado sa bookshelf mo.
But for darker stains such as mahogany, pwede na rin yung Boysen. Best if you go to Home Depot/Wilcon and have a demo there (pumapayag naman sila). Best if you bring a small piece of your wood tapos i-stain on the spot (iba iba kasi absorption rates ng wood e).
Post by: remington on Jul 03, 2014 at 10:23 AM
1) Please confirm...oil based finish over laquer sealer is ok. Laquer finish over oil based sealer is not ok.
2) How much time does Boysen laquer sanding sealer need to dry?
3) I will be using Boysen sanding sealer. Do I use this as is or does it need to be thinned?
bili ka sir oil wood stain na gusto mong color from a hardware store near you boysen maganda then lacquer sanding sealer and ang pang finish mo kung flat lang dead flat clear mix with lacquer thinner and lacquer flo damihan mo sir lacquer flo para hindi mamuti kasi maulan ngayon, kung glossy finish naman clear gloss lacquer mix with thinner and flo.
procedure: 1. haluin wood statin of desired color and apply it directly to wood by paint brush and allow 15 to 20 minutes drying time then wipe off excess stain pantayin mo lang sir ang punas para pantay ang color kung type mo mas darker repeat it again.
2. apply lacquer sanding sealer mix with lacquer thinner repeatedly untill mag sara mga grain ng wood or as desired sanding with waterproof sand paper #240 inbetween coats.
3. Mix the dead flat clear or the clear gloss lacquer with thinner and lacquer flo apply repeatedly as desired sanding with #360 or 400 sanding paper inbetween coats. kung may spray gun at air compressor ka sir mas maganda magiging finish nyan pantay ang kulay.
pwede na 2 to 3 minutes drying time inbetween coats ng sanding sealer ang finishing medyo matagal kasi may lacquer flo mga 10 to 20 minutes siguro pag mainit ang panahon ;)
kung polyuretrhane finish naman hudson top coat kunin mo sir meron din polyurethane sealer mas mabilis magpasara ng grain ng wood pero medyo iba application matagal drying time :D
Post by: Gino on Jul 03, 2014 at 11:09 AM
Post by: RXV on Jul 03, 2014 at 11:39 AM
RXV, ang Konig ba mayroon sa small stores or sa Ace Hardware lang?
I actually bought it at Wilcon. Sa Ace hardware, I'm not sure since they carry their own Ace brand (1L). Sa tabi-tabi hardware stores, probably not :)
One small can of Konig (half pint) cost less than P300, but it's already enough to stain my floorstanders.
They also, have poly varnishes in half-pint sizes (gloss, semi-gloss, satin, matte) perfect for those small projects.
Post by: Tsnad on Jul 03, 2014 at 11:41 AM
I actually bought it at Wilcon. Sa Ace hardware, I'm not sure since they carry their own Ace brand (1L). Sa tabi-tabi hardware stores, probably not :)
One small can of Konig (half pint) cost less than P300, but it's already enough to stain my floorstanders.
They also, have poly varnishes in half-pint sizes (gloss, semi-gloss, satin, matte) perfect for those small projects.
san na sir yung picture ng speaker mo.... >:D
Post by: audiojunkie on Jul 03, 2014 at 11:53 AM
Sa aking OB baffle, I applied wood conditioner before applying polyurethane stain (both same brand).
Parehas din ba yan sa sanding filler?
Post by: RXV on Jul 03, 2014 at 12:14 PM
san na sir yung picture ng speaker mo.... >:D
Soon sir, medyo madugo kasi yung finishing e, I had to re-do the sanding process because I wasn't satisfied enough. Actually, if I started now, it will still take a month for the finish to be complete hehe
Post by: RXV on Jul 03, 2014 at 12:22 PM
Sa aking OB baffle, I applied wood conditioner before applying polyurethane stain (both same brand).
Parehas din ba yan sa sanding filler?
Probably similar, but I think not identical. Let's wait for the experts to chime in on that.
Actually, there are times when I miss the OB baffle, it has a different kind of flavor compared to a boxed baffle. There is little bass produced due to the open baffle design, but there is an airiness and naturalness (depending on the room condition) that makes it lifelike, especially on the vocals and highs.
Now I understand why some people opt for OB enclosures tapos dagdag woofers na lang.
Post by: Gino on Jul 03, 2014 at 12:53 PM
Post by: deist on Jul 03, 2014 at 02:35 PM
You guys got any suggestions on what AN driver size I should get for a bookshelf build for a small 22 sqm room about 8 feet in height?
Post by: Gino on Jul 03, 2014 at 03:11 PM
Post by: RXV on Jul 03, 2014 at 06:08 PM
Post by: timber715 on Jul 04, 2014 at 01:53 AM
1) Please confirm...oil based finish over laquer sealer is ok. Laquer finish over oil based sealer is not ok.1. Yes
2) How much time does Boysen laquer sanding sealer need to dry?
3) I will be using Boysen sanding sealer. Do I use this as is or does it need to be thinned?
2. 4 hours should suffice on a warm day, but best results overnight.
3. Either way works. I prefer straight from the can and apply very thin coats.
Blotching I avoid by applying a thin coat of sealer on a suspected piece, then sand it with 220 grit sandpaper till everything is smooth and even. Then I apply stain. (I am aware that you should stain first, but...)
Stain applied and wiped the excess off after 10 mins. this will allow it to dry faster and give you an even shade without blotches.
Next step would be to apply topcoat. Several layers until you achieve what you seek.
If you can get hold of a wood conditioner locally it will help you stain better, that is if you can find one.
If you use the one step process I told you, after the sealer and sanding, you can apply the finish with light coats. If you need it darker, apply another after a day. Do not apply thick coats to get the shade you need.
Like I told JojoD, I strongly suggest the Ace finishes especially the stain. You can also try the ones from sandolin which is even better.
Brush on finish will require you to thin the finishes about 5% only to keep the fluid flowing and reduce bubbles. Brush slowly and lightly avoid starting fron the corners to reduce drips.
The first topcoat after the stain should be done with very light hands and care as the topcoat chemicals can reactivate the stain and mess it. After the first coat, suceeding ones should be a breeze.
Sand between coats except after stain. You can use 180 or 220 grit. On the final coat, i sand from 220 to 3000 grit depending on the sheen I seek. But you can stop anywhere that suits your needs.
Applying wax such as car wax makes the polish look good.
Hope this helps.
Post by: audiojunkie on Jul 04, 2014 at 05:41 AM
Probably similar, but I think not identical. Let's wait for the experts to chime in on that.
Actually, there are times when I miss the OB baffle, it has a different kind of flavor compared to a boxed baffle. There is little bass produced due to the open baffle design, but there is an airiness and naturalness (depending on the room condition) that makes it lifelike, especially on the vocals and highs.
Now I understand why some people opt for OB enclosures tapos dagdag woofers na lang.
As per product literature wood conditioner will seal wood grains and have even shade of stain.
Yup, you're right dipole sound of OB is completely different listening experience. To get better LF response at least 12" or bigger for woofer. I prefer passive bass in music listening..
Post by: RXV on Jul 04, 2014 at 10:27 AM
1. Yes
2. 4 hours should suffice on a warm day, but best results overnight.
3. Either way works. I prefer straight from the can and apply very thin coats.
Blotching I avoid by applying a thin coat of sealer on a suspected piece, then sand it with 220 grit sandpaper till everything is smooth and even. Then I apply stain. (I am aware that you should stain first, but...)
Stain applied and wiped the excess off after 10 mins. this will allow it to dry faster and give you an even shade without blotches.
Next step would be to apply topcoat. Several layers until you achieve what you seek.
If you can get hold of a wood conditioner locally it will help you stain better, that is if you can find one.
If you use the one step process I told you, after the sealer and sanding, you can apply the finish with light coats. If you need it darker, apply another after a day. Do not apply thick coats to get the shade you need.
Like I told JojoD, I strongly suggest the Ace finishes especially the stain. You can also try the ones from sandolin which is even better.
Brush on finish will require you to thin the finishes about 5% only to keep the fluid flowing and reduce bubbles. Brush slowly and lightly avoid starting fron the corners to reduce drips.
The first topcoat after the stain should be done with very light hands and care as the topcoat chemicals can reactivate the stain and mess it. After the first coat, suceeding ones should be a breeze.
Sand between coats except after stain. You can use 180 or 220 grit. On the final coat, i sand from 220 to 3000 grit depending on the sheen I seek. But you can stop anywhere that suits your needs.
Applying wax such as car wax makes the polish look good.
Hope this helps.
May I ask regarding the quote above?
I tried doing a test run on a piece of wood before (a part of it with sanding sealer and a part without), and then made many steps of stain layers: first part - 1 layer, 2nd part - 2 layers, 3rd part 3 layers, 4th part - 4 layers. Drying time was between 12 hours to 24 hours (summer time then), then wiped off excess thoroughly after 10-15 minutes. And after all that, they all looked the same (shade). How come? Some websites/forums say that stain layering works, while others say it doesn't. Ano ba talaga dapat? Brand of stain used is Konig.
Also, I also tested on a piece of stained wood, Ace poly varnish (glossy) 5 layers, and it has almost been a month now, but when I hard press "kurot" it, it still leaves a mark. I was expecting automotive topcoat hardness kasi upon full cure (like glass). Brand is Ace Finishes, the one used for flooring. Is it really like this? Or kulang pa sa cure time?
Post by: Gino on Jul 04, 2014 at 10:30 AM
Post by: RXV on Jul 04, 2014 at 10:45 AM
Wow that kurot experience is scary. I don't want that.
Glossy kasi e kaya halata, although I have to admit, medyo minadali ko ang testing process since Ace Finishes recommended a 48-hour curing time, ako a little more than 24-hours lang, since mainit naman nung summer time and testing ko lang naman for the sake of experimentation (based on forum opinions). But for my actual build, I won't dare experiment anymore haha
Post by: timber715 on Jul 04, 2014 at 08:54 PM
Stains vary in chemical build, i have never liked konig and prefer to use the ones from ace or by sandolin. They provide me with the color, speed of application and compatibility with the topcoat. Another stain I enjoyed using is Deft, they also carry water based poly which I considered the best I have tried in the wb division.
Poly dries tough and scratch resistant to a degree. Did you thin the poly you used? Or applied a thick coat to get a smooth finish?
Post by: RXV on Jul 04, 2014 at 11:17 PM
I have used ace polyurethane top coat for five years now, most were sprayed and some brushed on. i have never had any problems with it. I spray it more often in light coats, hence the drytime is significantly faster. I can do three or four coats in one day when temperature is warm.
Stains vary in chemical build, i have never liked konig and prefer to use the ones from ace or by sandolin. They provide me with the color, speed of application and compatibility with the topcoat. Another stain I enjoyed using is Deft, they also carry water based poly which I considered the best I have tried in the wb division.
Poly dries tough and scratch resistant to a degree. Did you thin the poly you used? Or applied a thick coat to get a smooth finish?
I was actually planning to use a spraygun, but opted to use a brush na lang, because when I made a test piece, okay naman ang results and nagfla-flatten out naman. I was also planning to buy Ace wood stain but decided against it because I won't be able to use all of the 1 liter, sayang lang. I did not thin the poly, I just applied straight from the can, but did not intentionally applied a thick coat, just poly on the tip (half at the most) of the brush. In the beginning of the brushing, there were grain lines (of the wood) shown on the poly, and after a while, the poly flattens out to a smooth surface naman.
I have a few questions:
1. In the Ace poly instructions, it says drying time is 48 hours? Do you follow this (if brushing)? It seems too long, other brands kasi alam ko 24 hours lang usually curing time.
2. Where can you buy the Sandolin and Deft wood stains and poly? Do they come in small (1/2 pint can) sizes? Do you have any experience with Zar brand stains and poly?
3. What do you use to thin out oil based poly? Paint thinner lang?
4. Do you recommend thinning poly when brushing on stained wood? If yes, what consistency or how much?
Kung spray gun naman, how do you thin it (what consistency or ratio)?
Post by: timber715 on Jul 05, 2014 at 02:39 AM
I was actually planning to use a spraygun, but opted to use a brush na lang, because when I made a test piece, okay naman ang results and nagfla-flatten out naman. I was also planning to buy Ace wood stain but decided against it because I won't be able to use all of the 1 liter, sayang lang. I did not thin the poly, I just applied straight from the can, but did not intentionally applied a thick coat, just poly on the tip (half at the most) of the brush. In the beginning of the brushing, there were grain lines (of the wood) shown on the poly, and after a while, the poly flattens out to a smooth surface naman.1. I let it dry for 24 hours even when I flood a piece, you would know poly is dry when you get white powder when you sand.
I have a few questions:
1. In the Ace poly instructions, it says drying time is 48 hours? Do you follow this (if brushing)? It seems too long, other brands kasi alam ko 24 hours lang usually curing time.
2. Where can you buy the Sandolin and Deft wood stains and poly? Do they come in small (1/2 pint can) sizes? Do you have any experience with Zar brand stains and poly?
3. What do you use to thin out oil based poly? Paint thinner lang?
4. Do you recommend thinning poly when brushing on stained wood? If yes, what consistency or how much?
Kung spray gun naman, how do you thin it (what consistency or ratio)?
Technically, oil based polyurethane fully cures after 40 days. Yes 40 days! That is why you can smell it long after you finish the build.
2. Sandolin you can find in true value, maybe even Deft ( got mine for the supplier way back and don't remember the location)
3. I prefer mineral spirits (available at Ace, but as far as I know they are basically the same as paint thinner).
4. Brushing I often mix it with BLO (boiled linseed oil) and mineral spirits, all in equal parts. This way you can even wipe it on with a clean rag.
Spraying, I use it straight from the can. Be aware that I use a spray gun with a 1.8 tip. Not all sprayguns have this. Thin it as needed if you have a smaller tip but not more than 10%.
Post by: RXV on Jul 05, 2014 at 11:39 AM
1. I let it dry for 24 hours even when I flood a piece, you would know poly is dry when you get white powder when you sand.
Technically, oil based polyurethane fully cures after 40 days. Yes 40 days! That is why you can smell it long after you finish the build.
2. Sandolin you can find in true value, maybe even Deft ( got mine for the supplier way back and don't remember the location)
3. I prefer mineralc spirits (available at Ace, but as far as I know they are basially the same as paint thinner).
4. Brushing I often mix it with BLO (boiled linseed oil) and mineral spirits, all in equal parts. This way you can even wipe it on with a clean rag.
Spraying, I use it straight from the can. Be aware that I use a spray gun with a 1.8 tip. Not all sprayguns have this. Thin it as needed if you have a smaller tip but not more than 10%.
Okay thanks for the info!
I will check out the Sandolin and Deft next time.
I'll probably practice on poly spraying next time, but for now, I'm enjoying brushing with poly :)
Post by: audiojunkie on Jul 05, 2014 at 12:18 PM
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/ram_on/x-over/image_zps92cbb752.jpg)
Result is very satisfying specially a novice like me... ;D
Post by: Gino on Jul 05, 2014 at 12:22 PM
Post by: audiojunkie on Jul 05, 2014 at 12:27 PM
Post by: Gino on Jul 05, 2014 at 12:31 PM
Post by: audiojunkie on Jul 05, 2014 at 12:37 PM
Di ba ito available sa local market? Marami nyan dito sa ace hardware at true value stores. Other brands din and bigger sizes if required....
Post by: Gino on Jul 05, 2014 at 12:46 PM
Post by: audiojunkie on Jul 05, 2014 at 02:42 PM
Post by: RXV on Jul 05, 2014 at 05:08 PM
The Ace Stain & Finish is a good all-in-one solution. But for me, I opted to use stain and poly in separate cans since I wanted to apply a lot of poly varnish for that glass effect. Of course this is the more expensive route. Satin/matte finish also looks good though, mas natural ang dating. It really depends on what effect you want to achieve.
Audiojunkie, your stained wood looks really nice, very natural looking. What wood did you use? Parang kakaiba kasi ang wood grain lines e.
Post by: audiojunkie on Jul 05, 2014 at 05:51 PM
The OB baffle I currently working on for its final form. Used different tone of shade and decided to have like flat finish. The mdf back panel finish with flat paint.
RXV, that wood were salvage from old wood table I found at the dumpster near the apt I'm staying. I grew up at countryside (promdi), woods have soft in my heart. I feel sad whenever I see people just throwing away or burning woods (my apology for being mellow dramatic). The table looks like those imported from Asia (Thailand or Malaysia). Not hardwood or expensive wood specie but good enough for commercial product. Have it machine planned to expose the natural color and my part lot of sanding and several coats of stain (sanding in between coats).
Polyshades label says 3in 1 that could mean it has primer/conditioner mixed with it. Tested with and without conditioner applied, wood grains with conditioner looks mode defined and natural than without.
Post by: RXV on Jul 05, 2014 at 06:20 PM
The OB baffle I currently working on for its final form. Used different tone of shade and decided to have like flat finish. The mdf back panel finish with flat paint.
RXV, that wood were salvage from old wood table I found at the dumpster near the apt I'm staying. I grew up at countryside (promdi), woods have soft in my heart. I feel sad whenever I see people just throwing away or burning woods (my apology for being mellow dramatic). The table looks like those imported from Asia (Thailand or Malaysia). Not hardwood or expensive wood specie but good enough for commercial product. Have it machine planned to expose the natural color and my part lot of sanding and several coats of stain (sanding in between coats).
Polyshades label says 3in 1 that could mean it has primer/conditioner mixed with it. Tested with and without conditioner applied, wood grains with conditioner looks mode defined and natural than without.
I really like your wood and its stain. Looks very homey and classy. I am also planning to build an outdoor table with that color (or maple like finish) in the future, like a camping table look.
Yes, I also tested on a piece of wood, with and without sanding sealer, to see if I could achieve the same look of stain with the two different methods.
Without sanding sealer, I sanded the wood with 80 grit, then 120, 240, 400, 600 and 1500 until as smooth as glass.
With sanding sealer on wood, I just sanded with 240 grit.
The results are revealing: The one with sanding sealer was smoother especially in the curves or where pores of the wood are, so the wood stain exhibited a more even tone throughout the wood.
The one without sanding sealer, although sanded super smooth, looked more natural, but still exposed the pores which were darker than the rest of the wood surface.
I choose to use sanding sealer for my project since that was the look that I desired. A necessary evil in my part. And exhaustive as well.
Post by: timber715 on Jul 06, 2014 at 03:54 AM
Sanding wood up to 220 grit should be sufficient as an american publication found in test that there really is no benefit going any higher (unless you are sanding a very, very hard/dense wood). The result would be the same. Of course sanding wood with any type of finish would benefit higher grits.
Post by: JojoD818 on Jul 07, 2014 at 02:10 PM
Post by: Gino on Jul 10, 2014 at 05:55 PM
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/StainedFront_zps5833720d.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/StainedBack_zps1723b839.jpg)
Post by: markcrenz on Jul 10, 2014 at 06:49 PM
Post by: Gino on Jul 10, 2014 at 07:00 PM
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/P7110179_zps484551df.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/P7110161_zps185bc52e.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/P7110167_zpsf5b80fde.jpg)
Post by: JojoD818 on Jul 10, 2014 at 11:39 PM
You can seal it again with sanding sealer if you like but I think the stain has to dry first and since that's oil based mga ilan araw mo muna patuyuin.
Post by: Gino on Jul 11, 2014 at 10:18 AM
Post by: JoeyGS on Jul 11, 2014 at 11:36 AM
Post by: Gino on Jul 11, 2014 at 11:52 AM
Still to be done: install the speaker input terminals and mount the drivers with screws.
Post by: arbitrage on Jul 11, 2014 at 09:44 PM
These speakers are very open sounding. Very smooth. No whizzer shout. Seamless mid to upper band. Sparkling top end. Very airy. Well rounded and deep bass thanks in part to a 10"sub. It reveals the rounded, snappy character of my APPJ tube amp with reasonable detail. Satisfying attack of guitar plucks, bass plucks, snare drums, and drum impacts.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/P7110179_zps484551df.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/P7110161_zps185bc52e.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/P7110167_zpsf5b80fde.jpg)
Looking really good. Im a fan of simplicity and this fits the bill. I admire you for plunging in DIY. Im thinking of talking to a carpenter na lang for my needs for the AN's I'm ordering.
UIY gagawin ko (utos it yourself) hehehehe... Wala kasi akong carpentry skills.
Kidding aside. Nice job hope I can hear it based on your SQ descriptions.
:)
Post by: Gino on Jul 12, 2014 at 12:19 AM
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/TrueColorBack_zps7fa09bc6.jpg)
Post by: JojoD818 on Jul 14, 2014 at 08:22 AM
sulit ang pagod at hirap ;)
Post by: Gino on Jul 14, 2014 at 09:41 AM
Post by: JojoD818 on Jul 14, 2014 at 09:55 AM
Post by: Gino on Jul 14, 2014 at 10:26 AM
Sa ngayon, spade connector yung sa box terminal side. So madali mabaklas basta hindi palit cable ang objective. Naka-shrink wrap pa yung mga female spades. Ang pogi. Hindi makabit kasi ang sikip ng location ng male spades sa speaker. So ayun ginupit ko yung sa speaker side. Then I soldered them. Mahirap maging OC.
Post by: JojoD818 on Jul 14, 2014 at 10:30 AM
Post by: Gino on Jul 14, 2014 at 10:41 AM
Post by: Cjtjader on Jul 14, 2014 at 03:06 PM
Installed the speaker terminals.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/TrueColorBack_zps7fa09bc6.jpg)
Nice build, Gino! Congrats!
Post by: Gino on Jul 14, 2014 at 03:29 PM
Post by: eyeyousee™ on Jul 15, 2014 at 11:34 PM
These speakers are very open sounding. Very smooth. No whizzer shout. Seamless mid to upper band. Sparkling top end. Very airy. Well rounded and deep bass thanks in part to a 10"sub. It reveals the rounded, snappy character of my APPJ tube amp with reasonable detail. Satisfying attack of guitar plucks, bass plucks, snare drums, and drum impacts.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/P7110179_zps484551df.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/P7110161_zps185bc52e.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/P7110167_zpsf5b80fde.jpg)
Beautiful!
Post by: Gino on Jul 17, 2014 at 10:41 AM
Post by: JojoD818 on Jul 17, 2014 at 10:54 AM
Sino sa mga kids a mahilig mag-assist? Anybody picking up your skills?
Thankfully lahat naman sila, pero si bunso ang pinakamalakas makasira... which is promising imho. ;D
Mahilig din lahat sa audio kaya I was thinking of putting a pair of fr into service para sa kanila, di lang ako sure kung pwede fr very wide ang genre to fill, the other night Gloc 9 ang trip ni bunso.
Post by: Gino on Jul 17, 2014 at 12:07 PM
Ok balak mong FR for the junior audiophiles. Exciting project.
Post by: JojoD818 on Jul 17, 2014 at 12:21 PM
Pag nag multi-speaker ang dami tanong, para saan yun cap, yun coil, eh yun ganito ano ginagawa, yun ganito, etc.
Kahapon habang dumaan si Glenda walang power nag harvest kami ng mga rechargeable AA battery from cameras, speed light, at gumawa ng LED night light. Dami tanong sa akin bakit need pa ng limiting resistor? Bakit di pwede ang wala resistor? Bakit nasunog yun LED nun walang resistor? Bakit yun ang resistor na ginamit? Sino si Ohm?
Hay di ko namalayan nakadaan na ang bagyo. ;D
Post by: Gino on Jul 17, 2014 at 12:28 PM
Post by: JoeyGS on Jul 17, 2014 at 12:30 PM
Post by: JojoD818 on Jul 17, 2014 at 01:10 PM
Daddy, bakit walang crossover and FR? Ano ba ang nagagawa ng capacitor, coil, at resistor ng crossover? Ha ha ha. Wala kang lusot. Blessing and a curse and may matalinong mga anak.
Sana nga di na mai raise yun question na yun. ;D Yun LED nga sabi ko may magic smoke sa loob, pag nakawala yun di na maibabalik at di na iilaw... nakailan demostration din kami ng puffing LEDs kahapon hahaha!
Basta sunod lang ako kung saan direction gusto nila, nagkataon mahilig makinig kaya sige lang.
It looks like mas maganda pag maraming tanong dahil di mo mamamalayan lumipas ang bagyo! Ok din kaya yan sa pagpalipas ng Stress? >:D >:D
Yup, bored dahil contained kahapon sa loob ng bahay dahil sa bagyo, walang magawa kaya naisipan gumawa ng LED light kaysa maglaro ng kandila. ;D Very effective na stress reliever, minsan lang nahihirapan ako mag explain hahaha!
Post by: Gino on Jul 21, 2014 at 05:46 PM
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/P7210215_zps441bd118.jpg)
And then disaster. The application was thicker than needed and the finish started running. Some areas were darker and some pores did not accept the stain.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/P7210213_zps8524fcca.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/P7210212_zpse21750e6.jpg)
I'll let these dry and sand once more. I hope I do a better job next time.
Post by: timber715 on Jul 22, 2014 at 01:01 AM
Also, kung pwede frontside pointed up during painting, do so. Yan kasi most important part na makikita mo everyday.
Goodluck.... Maganda yan stain and finish.
Post by: JojoD818 on Jul 22, 2014 at 06:24 AM
Post by: Gino on Jul 22, 2014 at 07:04 AM
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/P7220241_zpsd30f2a6e.jpg)
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/P7220240_zpsd64d10d2.jpg)
Post by: Gino on Jul 22, 2014 at 08:55 AM
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/REstain2_zpsc3cd77a4.jpg)
Post by: JojoD818 on Jul 22, 2014 at 03:28 PM
di kaya dumilim pa (darken) pag nag recoat ka ng stain and finish? sabagay ang solusyon dun use clear poly instead of stain and finish.
Post by: Gino on Jul 22, 2014 at 04:37 PM
Post by: JojoD818 on Jul 22, 2014 at 07:14 PM
Ang sarap siguro i-ros niyan, nakakagigil... :D
Post by: Gino on Jul 22, 2014 at 07:16 PM
Post by: JojoD818 on Jul 23, 2014 at 02:43 PM
Kung baga sa kotse na nabangga, puro masilya pero ginagamit muna he he.
Sana nga maliha mo pa yan, baka tamarin na gawin hehehe.
Or gawa ka pa ng isang set! ;D
Post by: Gino on Jul 23, 2014 at 03:30 PM
Post by: Tsnad on Jul 23, 2014 at 03:36 PM
Sanded down the face of one speaker. Wet sanding didn't work, wood rubbed off like paper on a small area. I did repairs. I'm letting it dry. then 2nd attempt. If I mess this up, yes I'll build another pair.
sir try mo different grit sand paper kasi ma peel off yan na parang paper. then banayad lang ang sanding... nag try na din ako mag stain at medyo mahirap kunin yung desired na color na gusto mo. ^-^ sa youtube ata merun instruction. >:D
Post by: Gino on Jul 23, 2014 at 05:13 PM
Post by: RXV on Jul 23, 2014 at 08:07 PM
I leave the wet sanding for automobile/metal use.
Also, I think the putty is not a good idea, kahit pa wood putty/filler, mahahalata kapag na-stain na (well, to my eyes actually..). Putty for me is best for applied for duco finish or leather-wrapped enclosures.
Post by: RXV on Jul 23, 2014 at 08:19 PM
Post by: Gino on Jul 23, 2014 at 08:52 PM
Pagpractisan ko muna these boxes. Get the system right. I'll follow your sanding advice to bare wood. Hello back aches he he. Hours and hours of fun.
Post by: timber715 on Jul 23, 2014 at 09:12 PM
Jumping from 80 grit to 200 should not make it faster. Avoid jumping grits too far apart, from 80, 120 grit should make the right transition. That way the scratch marks of the 80 grit (which is deep) can be removed by the 120 grit. Then moving to higher incremental grits get you to the polish you seek. A 200 grit will take long to remove the 80 grit scratch simply because it is too deep for the finer grit.
But if it works, why fix it right?
Gino, I would avoid a putty unless the damage is obvious. But for what its worth the finish you choose should cover the putty without much discoloration. You probably need two or more coats though...
Post by: Gino on Jul 23, 2014 at 09:36 PM
This time make accurate cuts so that there is minimal putty. Easier said than done. My new saw is crying to be used.
Post by: RXV on Jul 23, 2014 at 11:13 PM
If the wood is properly sealed, water doesn't really get absorbed but the wood....
Jumping from 80 grit to 200 should not make it faster. Avoid jumping grits too far apart, from 80, 120 grit should make the right transition. That way the scratch marks of the 80 grit (which is deep) can be removed by the 120 grit. Then moving to higher incremental grits get you to the polish you seek. A 200 grit will take long to remove the 80 grit scratch simply because it is too deep for the finer grit.
But if it works, why fix it right?
Gino, I would avoid a putty unless the damage is obvious. But for what its worth the finish you choose should cover the putty without much discoloration. You probably need two or more coats though...
The jump from 80 grit to 220 works for me because I use a sanding machine which for some reason doesn't show scratch marks anymore once I reach 220 grit naman. Pero kung hand sanded, I use 150 after 80 then 220 and 400/600 sometimes depending on wood. This is when I sand to bare wood again :)
Also, when you said "If the wood is properly sealed, water doesn't really get absorbed but the wood....", do you mean when it is sealed by sanding sealer? In Gino's situation, I think it is hard to "tantsya" to sand the stain & finish until umabot sa sanding sealer layer na lang, minsan nasosobrahan ang pag-sand so hindi na pantay yung pagka-seal ng wood. For me (my project), I ended up sanding my own wood to bare wood again para sure na lang na pantay lahat and started again all over, lesson learned :p
Post by: Gino on Jul 24, 2014 at 06:23 AM
Post by: remington on Jul 24, 2014 at 08:22 AM
Post by: timber715 on Jul 24, 2014 at 11:05 AM
best solution is to wipe it with lacquer thinner untill mabura ang stain at sanding sealer that is kung walang ginamit na polyurethane top coat or para mabilis pwede din gamitan ng stripsol and steel brush and wipe it clean with lacquer thinner.:o di po bakal yan ha?! Plywood brader. And the finish is oil based polyurethane.
Rvx, sealed I meant naka topcoat na and not the sanding sealer only.
Hand sanding si Gino so best not skip grits. But even with a machine (which I too does) skip one grit at best lang. So from 80 next would be 150 is ideal for Removing all finish.
Seems 180 grit was still aggressive in Gino's case (wet sanding), starting with 240 grit might do a better job.
Gino, as previously suggested, try scrubbing the test piece until veneer is exposed then apply your finish again. If it works than you might not need to build a new enclosure.
Post by: remington on Jul 24, 2014 at 11:45 AM
:o di po bakal yan ha?! Plywood brader. And the finish is oil based polyurethane.ay mali pala yun! ganun kasi ginagawa namin dati when I was in the construction and furniture business pag naghuhugas kami ng mga plywood na may varnish at irere cycle kailangan lang marunong ang gagawa para di masira :) old school but it still works ginagawa ko pa din ngayon yan ;)
Rvx, sealed I meant naka topcoat na and not the sanding sealer only.
Hand sanding si Gino so best not skip grits. But even with a machine (which I too does) skip one grit at best lang. So from 80 next would be 150 is ideal for Removing all finish.
Seems 180 grit was still aggressive in Gino's case (wet sanding), starting with 240 grit might do a better job.
Gino, as previously suggested, try scrubbing the test piece until veneer is exposed then apply your finish again. If it works than you might not need to build a new enclosure.
Post by: Gino on Jul 24, 2014 at 12:24 PM
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/SealerandAceTest_zps66c84cb5.jpg)
Post by: JojoD818 on Jul 24, 2014 at 12:58 PM
Pero I suggest mag break ka muna diyan... pahinga ka muna mga ilan araw. ;)
Post by: Gino on Jul 24, 2014 at 02:06 PM
Post by: JojoD818 on Jul 24, 2014 at 02:16 PM
If all else fails, may Bosny na kulay Silver Red naman eh hahaha >:D
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41nIxsIyObL._SS400_.jpg)
Sabi nga ni pareng Ricky intsik na intsik ang kulay niyan! ;D
Post by: eyeyousee™ on Jul 24, 2014 at 02:28 PM
I partially sanded my test panel. Promising. The grains did get darker. I applied very thin Stain and Finish. No run even when dried vertically. Now, the trick is to sand it evenly or as desired if I opt for a distressed look.
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/REstain2_zpsc3cd77a4.jpg)
Sir, brush ba gamit mo? mas ok kung spray baka may kakilala ka na may spray or air brush. Suggestion lang naman heheheh.
Post by: timber715 on Jul 24, 2014 at 02:35 PM
Post by: Gino on Jul 24, 2014 at 05:06 PM
How come when I applied sealer, sand smooth, and applied Stain and Finish, there are rough grainy dry spots? What are those? I didn't feel those before application.
Post by: joesat on Jul 24, 2014 at 07:26 PM
Post by: majoe on Jul 24, 2014 at 07:38 PM
Let the experience sink in and the anger pass... ganyan ginagawa ng mga modellers to prevent "flying" kits... :P
If all else fails, may Bosny na kulay Silver Red naman eh hahaha >:D
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41nIxsIyObL._SS400_.jpg)
Sabi nga ni pareng Ricky intsik na intsik ang kulay niyan! ;D
Post by: RXV on Jul 24, 2014 at 09:11 PM
Thanks for the offer.
How come when I applied sealer, sand smooth, and applied Stain and Finish, there are rough grainy dry spots? What are those? I didn't feel those before application.
Hmmm. weird nga. When using plywood, I first sand it down with grit 220 for a smooth finish, then apply a layer of sanding sealer, then sand it lightly after 24-48 hours depending on the weather condition (so mangyayari yung pores na lang yung mafi-fill with sanding sealer. Ok naman ang staining (and poly), pantay naman, although I haven't tried Ace stain & finish.
Anyone knows if Ace stain & finish can be applied by cloth? Or brush lang talaga?
Post by: Gino on Jul 24, 2014 at 09:23 PM
Post by: audiojunkie on Jul 24, 2014 at 09:29 PM
I used cloth to apply both conditioner and Polyshades.. Have to sand with 220 grit on every coat and applied very thin layer..
Post by: RXV on Jul 24, 2014 at 09:30 PM
Post by: Gino on Jul 24, 2014 at 10:37 PM
If you already have it, yes you can paint and wipe. But very small window before it gets tacky. Then build the coats. But poly is thick so rag will be messy. A stand alone stain is better suited for wiping.
The shade when wiped is very light. Same as Boysen. So I think I can get it dark with Boysen but a lot of layers.
The wood and prep needs to be perfect for a successful application of Ace Stain and Finish. I think brushing can yield good results with the proper prep and technique. I've had good samples.
Post by: RXV on Jul 25, 2014 at 10:34 AM
Post by: Gino on Jul 25, 2014 at 11:49 AM
(http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l225/ginopunsalan/References/pickle_zpsfafa5e6d.jpg)
Post by: timber715 on Jul 25, 2014 at 12:32 PM
If you want it totally flat, it will make the overall finish dark naman kasi you need several coats.
Damned if you do, damned if you don't ika nga. Sorry brader. This is the reason I use birch plywood whenever I can, painted or stained will just come out better with good materials and the result is less work and better product.
Post by: Gino on Jul 25, 2014 at 01:09 PM
The current boxes are decent looking at prop distances. I can live with it a while. I'll cut my losses.
Post by: ndotcom on Jul 25, 2014 at 02:18 PM
Here is what I did to my Harbeth speakers...
http://www.pinoydvd.com/index.php/topic,148537.330.html
Post by: Gino on Jul 25, 2014 at 03:03 PM
Post by: joesat on Jul 25, 2014 at 04:54 PM
suggestion lang naman. ;D
Post by: JojoD818 on Jul 26, 2014 at 07:26 AM
suggestion lang naman din ;D
Post by: JojoD818 on Jul 27, 2014 at 01:47 PM
i duco finish na lang. ferrari red ;D
pwede din ito oh...
kumusta na kaya ang box, umaaraw na lately...
Post by: Gino on Aug 01, 2014 at 08:42 AM
Post by: majoe on Aug 01, 2014 at 08:52 AM
Where can I buy wood veneer?
sa ricad meron. nag inquire ako dati sa mc home global. price ranges from 1.5k-3.5k ang plywood size, real wood veneer.
Post by: RXV on Aug 01, 2014 at 09:11 AM
sa ricad meron. nag inquire ako dati sa mc home global. price ranges from 1.5k-3.5k ang plywood size, real wood veneer.As far as I know, yung mga P1.5-3.5k, hindi real wood veneer pa yan, synthetic lang yung outer layer(formica type?).
Real wood veneer (all wood) costs around the P5k up range.
Sa Wilcon meron, but I think medyo pricey.
May nakita akong local company dati na mayroong machine na nagveveneer talaga ng real wood, but I forgot already the company name.
Post by: majoe on Aug 01, 2014 at 09:21 AM
As far as I know, yung mga P1.5-3.5k, hindi real wood veneer pa yan, synthetic lang yung outer layer(formica type?).
Real wood veneer (all wood) costs around the P5k up range.
estimate lang binigay sakin dahil nag inquire lang naman ako. pero i clarify na hindi formica yun. yung 1.5k daw, plain lang yun. baka yung 3.5k above ang magagandang wood.
Post by: Gino on Aug 01, 2014 at 09:40 AM
Post by: deist on Aug 01, 2014 at 09:45 AM
Post by: Tsnad on Aug 01, 2014 at 09:53 AM
Post by: Gino on Aug 01, 2014 at 09:59 AM
Post by: tony on Aug 01, 2014 at 10:40 AM
try call san jose cabinet if they accept veneer work.
please pm me contact info, thanks..
Post by: Tsnad on Aug 01, 2014 at 10:43 AM
please pm me contact info, thanks..
Sir Tony hanapin ko po yung tel number. will PM you.. ^-^
Post by: rochie on Aug 01, 2014 at 10:56 AM
Post by: kayee on Aug 01, 2014 at 11:07 AM
Post by: camoteque on Aug 01, 2014 at 11:19 AM
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/280x200q90/716/img3222so.jpg) (http://imageshack.com/f/jwimg3222soj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/280x200q90/545/img3534to.jpg) (http://imageshack.com/f/f5img3534toj)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/280x200q90/849/img5373fi.jpg) (http://imageshack.com/f/nlimg5373fij)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/280x200q90/59/img20130118161139.jpg) (http://imageshack.com/f/1nimg20130118161139j)
An open baffle full range project which used real wood veneer
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/280x200q90/407/p7280143.jpg) (http://imageshack.com/f/bbp7280143j)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/280x200q90/39/p7280142n.jpg) (http://imageshack.com/f/13p7280142nj)
Fertin driver installed. (http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/280x200q90/267/img2586i.jpg) (http://imageshack.com/f/7fimg2586ij)
Kung gagastos ka rin, I suggest use real wood veneer than synthetic. Mas maganda siya.
Post by: RXV on Aug 01, 2014 at 11:29 AM
Post by: camoteque on Aug 01, 2014 at 11:41 AM
Wow, very nicely done. For keeps ang design..
Actually, the design was from Voxativ Ampeggio. But owner used Fertin field coil drivers instead of the original Voxativ.
Post by: Gino on Aug 01, 2014 at 11:43 AM
Brightyear is near what road on Edsa. Hanapin ko sa Maps. Also if coming from Timog QC, will it be on my side or the going back side?
Post by: camoteque on Aug 01, 2014 at 12:05 PM
I don't have a spray gun. Can that veneer be waxed or something easy to do?
Brightyear is near what road on Edsa. Hanapin ko sa Maps. Also if coming from Timog QC, will it be on my side or the going back side?
If you're coming from Balintawak, you will reach Brightyear before reaching the former Bonanza. I think it is also before Kaingin Road.
You can even use Linseed Oil because it's real wood.
Post by: Gino on Aug 01, 2014 at 12:17 PM
Post by: camoteque on Aug 01, 2014 at 12:33 PM
I see. If I come out of Roosevelt to Edsa, I already missed it? So in Edsa its on the side of Roosevelt and Waltermart Muñoz.
If you're coming from Roosevelt then EDSA, go back to Balintawak. Make a U-turn after you see Kaingin Rd. on the left. If I'm not mistaken, there is an overpass in Kaingin so that's your landmark. So southbound ka na ngayon. Brightyear is on the side of Waltermart but before Kaingin Rd.
Post by: Gino on Aug 01, 2014 at 01:13 PM
Post by: deist on Aug 01, 2014 at 01:18 PM
Post by: tony on Aug 01, 2014 at 01:20 PM
Sir Tony hanapin ko po yung tel number. will PM you.. ^-^
thanks...
Post by: camoteque on Aug 01, 2014 at 01:24 PM
Got it. Thanks Camotecue.
No problem. Clarification lang. Ka-side lang siya ng Waltermart at hindi nasa right side ha. Before reaching Kaingin and Munoz kung galing ka Balintawak.
Post by: camoteque on Aug 01, 2014 at 01:25 PM
@camoteque - love the JBL paragon cabinets. very good quality of work 8)Thanks.
Post by: deist on Aug 01, 2014 at 01:31 PM
Post by: Gino on Aug 01, 2014 at 01:40 PM
I also have precut speakers holes and ports on the boxes, can I cut the vinyl after applying on the box fronts? Is it thin enough for that procedure?
Post by: camoteque on Aug 01, 2014 at 01:42 PM
@camoteque, re the wood veneers you use; adhesive back ba sya?
They are not. You can use contact cement.
Post by: deist on Aug 01, 2014 at 01:43 PM
They are not. You can use contact cement.
Post by: camoteque on Aug 01, 2014 at 01:45 PM
Onga pala, I have polyurethane finish. Will I have to sand this down to bare wood to glue the veneer or will smooth enough sandind do for prep?
I also have precut speakers holes and ports on the boxes, can I cut the vinyl after applying on the box fronts? Is it thin enough for that procedure?
The veneer is very very thin. They can be easily cut.
Post by: camoteque on Aug 01, 2014 at 01:48 PM
The veneer is very veOnga pala, I have polyurethane finish. Will I have to sand this down to bare wood to glue the veneer or will smooth enough sandind do for prep?
I also have precut speakers holes and ports on the boxes, can I cut the vinyl after applying on the box fronts? Is it thin enough for that procedure?
Better sand it down if it is still possible. If you can't, at least make it rough enough so the contact cement will still stick.
Post by: Gino on Aug 01, 2014 at 01:48 PM
Post by: camoteque on Aug 01, 2014 at 02:03 PM
If contact cement is used, what happens when panels meet? Can't sand contact cement. Can wood glue be used?
Veneer is so thin (maybe 2 or 3 pieces of bond paper thk only). When they meet in corners, it's unlike what you see when two thicker ply meet that you need to make a 45 degree cut. You can use wood glue but it takes time to dry unlike contact cement.
Post by: camoteque on Aug 01, 2014 at 02:07 PM
Veneer is so thin (maybe 2 or 3 pieces of bond paper thk only). When they meet in corners, it's unlike what you see when two thicker ply meet that you need to make a 45 degree cut. You can use wood glue but it takes time to dry unlike contact cement.
Stick your sand paper to a block of wood and use it in sanding corners.
Post by: Gino on Aug 01, 2014 at 02:23 PM
Post by: xbase on Aug 02, 2014 at 12:10 AM
An open baffle full range project which used real wood veneer
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/280x200q90/407/p7280143.jpg) (http://imageshack.com/f/bbp7280143j)
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/280x200q90/39/p7280142n.jpg) (http://imageshack.com/f/13p7280142nj)
Fertin driver installed. (http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/280x200q90/267/img2586i.jpg) (http://imageshack.com/f/7fimg2586ij)
Kung gagastos ka rin, I suggest use real wood veneer than synthetic. Mas maganda siya.
ganda sir, what do you think of this voxativ design?
(http://www.astrasuite.com/images/voxativ-images/voxativ-ampeggio-1.jpg) (http://www.astrasuite.com/images/voxativ-images)
Post by: camoteque on Aug 02, 2014 at 12:54 PM
ganda sir, what do you think of this voxativ design?
(http://www.astrasuite.com/images/voxativ-images/voxativ-ampeggio-1.jpg) (http://www.astrasuite.com/images/voxativ-images)
Yan actually ang inspiration ng owner ng fertin though the voxativ is a backloaded horn, if I'm correct.
As in all things in audio, me compromise din yang backloaded horn. Yung iba type yan, yung iba ayaw naman nila. Inaadvice ba ni David Dicks ang ganyang design? Gusto mo subukan baka magwork.
Post by: xbase on Aug 02, 2014 at 01:09 PM
Yan actually ang inspiration ng owner ng fertin though the voxativ is a backloaded horn, if I'm correct.hindi namn sir nag advice ng ganyan si d.dicks. ang ganda lang ng design. wala din ako idea kung anu magiging sq pag AN or MA ang ilagay. but the piano finish certainly looks very good on the eyes... curious lang sa magiging outcome. do you think sir its a good project?
As in all things in audio, me compromise din yang backloaded horn. Yung iba type yan, yung iba ayaw naman nila. Inaadvice ba ni David Dicks ang ganyang design? Gusto mo subukan baka magwork.
Post by: shrek7 on Aug 02, 2014 at 01:22 PM
Yan actually ang inspiration ng owner ng fertin though the voxativ is a backloaded horn, if I'm correct.sir, I am very curious sa back loaded horn design plus audio nirvana drivers, magwo work kaya yun?
As in all things in audio, me compromise din yang backloaded horn. Yung iba type yan, yung iba ayaw naman nila. Inaadvice ba ni David Dicks ang ganyang design? Gusto mo subukan baka magwork.
Post by: xbase on Aug 02, 2014 at 01:45 PM
sir, I am very curious sa back loaded horn design plus audio nirvana drivers, magwo work kaya yun?ayan na, bagay yn sa place mo sir shrek...
Post by: camoteque on Aug 02, 2014 at 01:55 PM
ayan na, bagay yn sa place mo sir shrek...
My friend and I tried AN 8" in a backloaded horn designed for lowthers. Forgot the specific design. With ANs, sound is very thin.
You can copy the voxativ look but make it a BR or TL instead.
Post by: xbase on Aug 02, 2014 at 03:56 PM
My friend and I tried AN 8" in a backloaded horn designed for lowthers. Forgot the specific design. With ANs, sound is very thin.thank you sir sa info, i guess sa look lang pwede gayahin kung AN...
You can copy the voxativ look but make it a BR or TL instead.
Post by: remington on Aug 19, 2014 at 07:42 PM
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/SAM_0266_zpsdc8a2084.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/SAM_0266_zpsdc8a2084.jpg.html)
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/SAM_0263_zps4d6dab13.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/SAM_0263_zps4d6dab13.jpg.html)
the builder....camera shy!!!
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/SAM_0262_zps6668ac00.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/SAM_0262_zps6668ac00.jpg.html)
Post by: audiojunkie on Aug 19, 2014 at 07:56 PM
my latest box...raw finish
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/SAM_0266_zpsdc8a2084.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/SAM_0266_zpsdc8a2084.jpg.html)
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/SAM_0263_zps4d6dab13.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/SAM_0263_zps4d6dab13.jpg.html)
the builder....camera shy!!!
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/SAM_0262_zps6668ac00.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/SAM_0262_zps6668ac00.jpg.html)
Looking great... 8) Can't wait to see the finished pair... :D
Post by: fredreadrick on Aug 19, 2014 at 08:00 PM
my latest box...raw finish
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/SAM_0266_zpsdc8a2084.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/SAM_0266_zpsdc8a2084.jpg.html)
Sir Remington, on my first glance i thought this was a pylon ;D
parinig pag na run-in na.
Post by: remington on Aug 19, 2014 at 08:19 PM
Looking great... 8) Can't wait to see the finished pair... :Dthanks sir!
Sir Remington, on my first glance i thought this was a pylon ;Dsure bro parang two towers hehehe, mahirap lang gawin mabusisi!
parinig pag na run-in na.
Post by: fredreadrick on Aug 19, 2014 at 08:25 PM
mahirap lang gawin mabusisi!di bale, for sure sulit naman yan.
Post by: RXV on Aug 19, 2014 at 09:56 PM
Post by: remington on Aug 19, 2014 at 10:46 PM
Post by: xbase on Aug 19, 2014 at 10:59 PM
my latest box...raw finish
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/SAM_0263_zps4d6dab13.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/SAM_0263_zps4d6dab13.jpg.html)
the builder....camera shy..
konti na lang kasya ka na... hehehe... i'm sure marami nag aabang sa outcome nyan. isa n ko don...
Post by: deist on Aug 20, 2014 at 10:59 AM
Post by: dana on Aug 20, 2014 at 11:33 AM
Post by: markcrenz on Aug 20, 2014 at 12:35 PM
the builder....camera shy!!!na-jingle yata... ;D
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/SAM_0262_zps6668ac00.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/SAM_0262_zps6668ac00.jpg.html)
wala ba construction pics? daya naman buo agad. :P
Post by: tony on Aug 20, 2014 at 05:44 PM
na-jingle yata... ;D
wala ba construction pics? daya naman buo agad. :P
pa buwenas yan sa speakers, kailangan me konting sacrifie....:D
Post by: remington on Aug 20, 2014 at 09:18 PM
ito magiging binding post nya gamit daw ng triangle speakers ;)
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/SAM_0267_zps5b0bc24f.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/SAM_0267_zps5b0bc24f.jpg.html)
Post by: tony on Aug 21, 2014 at 08:17 AM
sana merong magmagandang loob na mag sponsor.....
tutulungan kita sa pagbubuhat...:D
Post by: remington on Aug 21, 2014 at 08:24 AM
Post by: geriboy on Aug 21, 2014 at 11:31 AM
...
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/SAM_0267_zps5b0bc24f.jpg)
parang katulad ng binding posts ng omega speakers ni sir diy_master.
Post by: tony on Aug 21, 2014 at 11:38 AM
parang katulad ng binding posts ng omega speakers ni sir diy_master.
parang alam ko kung saan galing yan....pero quiet lang me...:D
Post by: JoeyGS on Aug 22, 2014 at 07:50 PM
parang alam ko kung saan galing yan....pero quiet lang me...:D
Post by: Nelson de Leon on Aug 22, 2014 at 11:48 PM
ang laking bookshelf nyan jun! ;D
Satellites ata. >:D
Post by: tony on Aug 23, 2014 at 08:52 AM
Pabulong naman.....TY
sssshh....atin atin lang....sa Golden Mars sa Raon ako nakakita nyan....:D
Post by: remington on Aug 23, 2014 at 11:51 AM
sssshh....atin atin lang....sa Golden Mars sa Raon ako nakakita nyan....:Dmeron ba nito sa golden mars baka mas mura dun sayang di ko nakita!
Post by: JoeyGS on Aug 24, 2014 at 02:34 AM
sssshh....atin atin lang....sa Golden Mars sa Raon ako nakakita nyan....:D
Post by: remington on Aug 30, 2014 at 09:30 PM
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/SAM_0313_zps45d30ef7.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/SAM_0313_zps45d30ef7.jpg.html)
Post by: camoteque on Aug 31, 2014 at 10:16 AM
95% finish...port cover and stuffing nalang. Pretty satisfied with the SQ!
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/SAM_0313_zps45d30ef7.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/SAM_0313_zps45d30ef7.jpg.html)
Nice cabinets with fresh design!
But just a few questions comes to mind. Does not the imaging suffer considering magkalayo ang dalawang drivers playing the same frequencies? (I'm assuming no crossover). I'm sure there will be comb filtering problems with drivers spaced this wide apart. If the room is BIG maybe hindi detrimental sa SQ. I maybe wrong.
Add to this additional reflections that the upper drivers contribute to the overall sound when we take the room into consideration (which 'might' be solved by room treatments).
Definitely SPL will increase but at the expense of imaging, IMHO.
Post by: remington on Aug 31, 2014 at 10:50 AM
Post by: tony on Aug 31, 2014 at 11:14 AM
Post by: deist on Aug 31, 2014 at 12:00 PM
Post by: remington on Aug 31, 2014 at 01:14 PM
Jun, you defied all the odds in a manner of speaking. ;)....good job....+1 sana me pogi points din dito.... ;Dthanks master pero hindi lang sa salita mas maganda pakinggan hehehe
@remington - how did you come up with the enclosure design? what calculator or simulator did you use?it just came up to mind because I was aiming for the ambience type of enclosure so instead of putting it on top I asked my friend who made it to make the upper part slanted so that the top driver will not only serves as an ambience driver but a main speaker as well because I will be making it in a bi-ampable type of speaker. No calculator nor science in this build because I personally believe that in audio we should always trust our ears not the numbers because at the end of the day I will be the one who will use it and will listen to it ;D and besides that is what DIY is all about di ba? to do what you want and not what others tell you ;) matigas kasi ulo ko hindi ako marunong sumunod sa iba :D, I just upgraded the size of my previous box because I heard xbase's AN box almost similar to the size of this box and it sounds spectacular thats why I copied it but just a little bit bigger :D
Post by: deist on Aug 31, 2014 at 02:35 PM
it just came up to mind because I was aiming for the ambience type of enclosure so instead of putting it on top I asked my friend who made it to make the upper part slanted so that the top driver will not only serves as an ambience driver but a main speaker as well because I will be making it in a bi-ampable type of speaker. No calculator nor science in this build because I personally believe that in audio we should always trust our ears not the numbers because at the end of the day I will be the one who will use it and will listen to it ;D and besides that is what DIY is all about di ba? to do what you want and not what others tell you ;) matigas kasi ulo ko hindi ako marunong sumunod sa iba :D, I just upgraded the size of my previous box because I heard xbase's AN box almost similar to the size of this box and it sounds spectacular thats why I copied it but just a little bit bigger :D
Post by: remington on Aug 31, 2014 at 04:14 PM
I hate to break this to you bro but science & math are the foundations of this entire hi-fi hullabaloo ;) The concept, topology, implementation etc involved in designing an audio product are based on these foundations. If there was no science involved in building your speakers then you really defied the odds...as well as the entire concept of audio design hehehe But if you're happy with the results then I'm happy for you. cheers!yup you are right about that, but in this build I did not consult nor use any of those calculators and simulators that you are asking, this is built on just pure instinct and so far the outcome for me is quite nice. I have heared diy boxes made by other builders who based their builds on those formulas but not in general huh dont get me wrong ;D and infact purchased some , but for me maraming kulang sa tunog. I have tried to tweaked it but kulang pa din, so if you will ask me
between instinct and formulas I would rather choose instinct para wala kang sisisihing formula kung palpak hehehe! but thats just me and not in general ;) ;D
Post by: JojoD818 on Aug 31, 2014 at 05:12 PM
Post by: camoteque on Aug 31, 2014 at 06:06 PM
Amar Bose and Matthew Polk in the making... congrats!Actually Bose nga nasa isip ko kasi ang concept parang direct reflecting eh. Or Duevel planets na omnidirectional. But Remington is right na kung saan ka masaya yun importante kasi most of the time ang owner naman ang makikinig sa sariling system nya.
Anyway, congrats to the owner!
Post by: JojoD818 on Aug 31, 2014 at 07:28 PM
Actually Bose nga nasa isip ko kasi ang concept parang direct reflecting eh. Or Duevel planets na omnidirectional. But Remington is right na kung saan ka masaya yun importante kasi most of the time ang owner naman ang makikinig sa sariling system nya.
Anyway, congrats to the owner!
Yun ang concept ni Bose, direct-reflective with a dash of phase angle alignment. Oo naman, totally agree tayo diyan. Home is where the heart is.
Post by: tony on Sep 01, 2014 at 07:10 AM
even with the passive cross-overs, everything by ear....;)
Post by: audiojunkie on Sep 01, 2014 at 11:01 AM
Here's a pic...
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/ram_on/DIY/imagejpg1_zps3604f10c.jpg)
It's at temporary location while work is in progress, base will be added to mount the spike.
Post by: JojoD818 on Sep 01, 2014 at 03:15 PM
thumbsup!
Post by: camoteque on Sep 01, 2014 at 07:33 PM
I'm now at finishing stage of 4 way dipole, X-over by calculations only to get parts value, used SPL meter to balance driver's output levels and other tuning all by air (ear).
Here's a pic...
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/ram_on/DIY/imagejpg1_zps3604f10c.jpg)
It's at temporary location while work is in progress, base will be added to mount the spike.
Grabeng crossover yan brother! Ang ganda ng execution. You need plenty of amplifier power to run those speakers. How's the SQ?
IMO, one still needs to use calculators/formulas in xover design especially for us beginners to get to the nearest values and so to make life easier. Then change values little by little to get to the desired performance as you tune by ear. Sayang naman ang science di ba kung di pakinabangan. Isa pa, ok lang kung napakarami mong stash ng capacitors, resistors, and inductors na naipon through the years. Kung hindi napakagastos gumawa ng xover sa pageexperiment. One time, we made passive 3-way xover using solen flat coil inductors and boutique capacitors (and even added transformer attenuators)for a 3-way horn system. Cost me about P20k for a pair of xovers alone. What if di maganda tunog sa una mo pa lang try. Di lumalaki ang gastos.
Picture of the said xover and horn speaker.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/280x200q90/23/bday0920091231238.jpg) (http://imageshack.com/f/0nbday0920091231238j)
Sir Tony walang problema sa yo yang paggawa ng xover. Tatawanan mo lang yan!
Post by: tony on Sep 01, 2014 at 07:47 PM
Post by: JojoD818 on Sep 01, 2014 at 08:21 PM
noon, basta lagyan lang ng capacitor yun pt-6 tofutofu na... di na naisip yun attenuation at integration. ;D
Post by: deist on Sep 01, 2014 at 08:58 PM
If you don't mind, can you share with us the details like; drivers used & implementation, crossover settings etc. I assume the top 3 drivers are OB? TIA.
I'm now at finishing stage of 4
Post by: deist on Sep 01, 2014 at 09:03 PM
There's this saying in the visual arts world to which I live by; "Follow the rules, learn the basics and when you have mastered both, BREAK THEM! Then create your own style."
IMO, one still needs to use calculators/formulas in xover design especially for us beginners to get to the nearest values and so to make life easier. Then change values little by little to get to the desired performance as you tune by ear. Sayang naman ang science di ba kung di pakinabangan...
Post by: camoteque on Sep 01, 2014 at 10:17 PM
kaya madami builders ayaw ng multi-drivers dahil sa crossover design - second lang yun losses ang reason. it's easily a cause for a make or break in a multi-driver design.
noon, basta lagyan lang ng capacitor yun pt-6 tofutofu na... di na naisip yun attenuation at integration. ;D
Pinakamahirap talaga ang crossover design.
Ung PT6 yan yung pioneer di ba? Ung square mouth na nilalagay sa dyip? parang natatandaan ko nung college ako bumili rin ako nyan at kinabit ko on top sa lumang speaker namin. Ang ganda ng kalansing pag pinatutugtog ko si Michael Jackson doing 'Don't Stop Til you get enough.' :)
Post by: xbase on Sep 01, 2014 at 10:54 PM
I'm now at finishing stage of 4 way dipole, X-over by calculations only to get parts value, used SPL meter to balance driver's output levels and other tuning all by air (ear).wow! look at that crossover. the mother of all crossover!
Here's a pic...
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/ram_on/DIY/imagejpg1_zps3604f10c.jpg)
It's at temporary location while work is in progress, base will be added to mount the spike.
Post by: audiojunkie on Sep 02, 2014 at 12:22 AM
Here where it all started...
OB work starts here (original version):
http://www.pinoydvd.com/index.php/topic,66494.3060.html
More experiments performed before final design put into realization:
http://www.pinoydvd.com/index.php/topic,66494.3030.html
Crossover final stage starts here:
http://www.pinoydvd.com/index.php/topic,66494.3150.html
Post by: JojoD818 on Sep 02, 2014 at 01:59 AM
Pinakamahirap talaga ang crossover design.
Ung PT6 yan yung pioneer di ba? Ung square mouth na nilalagay sa dyip? parang natatandaan ko nung college ako bumili rin ako nyan at kinabit ko on top sa lumang speaker namin. Ang ganda ng kalansing pag pinatutugtog ko si Michael Jackson doing 'Don't Stop Til you get enough.' :)
Ayun oh, pt6 user ka din pala brad! ;D Yup, dati tig isang pares kami ng mga utol ko, puro original na Pioneer kaya ingat na ingat kami... tama yun Beat It album at Madonna tracks panalo! those were the days...
Post by: JojoD818 on Sep 02, 2014 at 02:00 AM
I agree with this statement by sir Larry.
There's this saying in the visual arts world to which I live by; "Follow the rules, learn the basics and when you have mastered both, BREAK THEM! Then create your own style."
yan din sabi lawyer ko eh... know and follow the rules before you break them! ;D ;D ;D
Post by: audiojunkie on Sep 02, 2014 at 04:34 AM
Grabeng crossover yan brother! Ang ganda ng execution. You need plenty of amplifier power to run those speakers. How's the SQ?
IMO, one still needs to use calculators/formulas in xover design especially for us beginners to get to the nearest values and so to make life easier. Then change values little by little to get to the desired performance as you tune by ear. Sayang naman ang science di ba kung di pakinabangan. Isa pa, ok lang kung napakarami mong stash ng capacitors, resistors, and inductors na naipon through the years. Kung hindi napakagastos gumawa ng xover sa pageexperiment. One time, we made passive 3-way xover using solen flat coil inductors and boutique capacitors (and even added transformer attenuators)for a 3-way horn system. Cost me about P20k for a pair of xovers alone. What if di maganda tunog sa una mo pa lang try. Di lumalaki ang gastos.
Picture of the said xover and horn speaker.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/280x200q90/23/bday0920091231238.jpg) (http://imageshack.com/f/0nbday0920091231238j)
Sir Tony walang problema sa yo yang paggawa ng xover. Tatawanan mo lang yan!
Salamat brader... Total gagastusan ko na at pagaaksayahan ko ng panahon kaya inayos ko na. Hindi mga premium parts ang ginamit ko to keep cost at minimum. Required power at least 100watts and 4ohms rated. Maganda naman ang performance when I used Nakamichi stereo receiver na 100w/c, 150w/c luxman amps at sa ngayon B&K amp 200w/c. Sa SQ, ang masasabi ko lang mas gusto ko ito sa dating kong speaker (paradigm studio 60 v2). Madalas din na tanong kumusta ang bass? Ito rin ang masasabi ko, w/ proper attenuation ng mid at high freq. lulutang din ng LF at natural na malambot sa tenga. Those who are interested how it's done check this... Manzanita OB...
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/110583-fast-fun-inexpensive-ob-project.html
Tama kayo brader, kailangan ang science dito at mathematics aside from endless research form infonet (Internet ). Dinaanan ko yan dagdag bawas ng values kahit meron na value sa calculation. Values are just the starting point pero the actual result depende sa drivers actual performance at integration or blending between drivers. Kahit fixed na ang cut-off freq. kailangan din extended listening session of different genre ng music. Took me almost a year to fine tune and finalized the design. I also accumulated a box of x-over parts dahil sa daming kinahoy na speakers. The added toroid is part of a circuit for bass driver..
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/full-range/130679-t-bass-drive-ob-lf-drivers.html
Meron na rin akong napakinggan na horn system, napaka wide ng midrange at kailangan heavily attenuated dahil sa taas ng sensitivity...
Post by: audiojunkie on Sep 02, 2014 at 04:36 AM
susmaryosep! yan ang crossover! 8)
thumbsup!
Practice pa lang yan master J... ;D
Post by: audiojunkie on Sep 02, 2014 at 05:23 AM
Quote
author=deist link=topic=22682.msg2169687#msg2169687 date=1409576310]
Beautiful! this is one hell of a project, kudos to you sir O0
If you don't mind, can you share with us the details like; drivers used & implementation, crossover settings etc. I assume the top 3 drivers are OB? TIA.
Thank you sir.... It's my weekend & holidays project ...
Yes, the 3 drivers mounted at flat panel. Woofer w/ H frame enclosure, open at the back but front form like Bandpass type. Originally, it's 12" woofer but found 15" which matches well with the configuration. So, it's now version 2 w/ 15" woofer. Midrange is 6.5" vintage wharfedale coated paper cone (very open in vocal). Twt-1 1" seas & Twt-2 kenwood horn.
Cut-off freq. bass- 80hz/12db, mid- 130hz/6db (low) - 3.5khz/12db (high), T1- 3.5khz/12db~ 22khz(max), T-2- 16khz/12db~ 50khz(max). Mid,T1&T2 are fixed attenuated to not use L-pad. Used same notch filter and impedance equalization from driver original crossover. If you notice freq. gap bet woofer & mid, in theory and number there's freq. hole but in real world of dipole environment our ears will not hear it. I also made the BP low 6db, @ 1 octave it covers down to 65hz. Fine tuning were done by extended listening sessions and opinions from friends who have different sound quality perceptions...
Post by: tony on Sep 02, 2014 at 06:30 AM
copy paste lang nagkayari na.....:D
one downside to multiway is the need for more power
to compensate for the insertion losses that the passive
cross-overs bring, but then there is active cross-overing
which is even more flexible.....zero insertion loss...
Post by: camoteque on Sep 02, 2014 at 06:43 AM
Meron na rin akong napakinggan na horn system, napaka wide ng midrange at kailangan heavily attenuated dahil sa taas ng sensitivity...
What I did to my system to solve the problem you mentioned is to go active. I use 2 sets of 2A3 SET amps to separately drive the mids and the highs and then solid state sa woofers. In this configuration, it is the Iows that I attenuate because of the high sensitivity of the Altecs @ 100db. I really love this system because importante sa akin ang scale when I listen to music (aside from the fact that ako may gawa nito ha ha!).
Might go 4-way because I have an extra mid-bass horn waiting to be installed.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/280x200q90/401/p9040087.jpg) (http://imageshack.com/f/b5p9040087j)
Ganito yata talaga ang mga DIYers eh. Hindi humihinto sa pag-explore kahit madalas madapa. :)
Saan ka located? Any chance I can listen to your 4-way set-up?
Post by: audiojunkie on Sep 02, 2014 at 12:49 PM
wow! look at that crossover. the mother of all crossover!
Tried to do a minimalist approach sir... Pero yan ang end product.... ;D
Post by: audiojunkie on Sep 02, 2014 at 12:58 PM
What I did to my system to solve the problem you mentioned is to go active. I use 2 sets of 2A3 SET amps to separately drive the mids and the highs and then solid state sa woofers. In this configuration, it is the Iows that I attenuate because of the high sensitivity of the Altecs @ 100db. I really love this system because importante sa akin ang scale when I listen to music (aside from the fact that ako may gawa nito ha ha!).
Might go 4-way because I have an extra mid-bass horn waiting to be installed.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/280x200q90/401/p9040087.jpg) (http://imageshack.com/f/b5p9040087j)
Ganito yata talaga ang mga DIYers eh. Hindi humihinto sa pag-explore kahit madalas madapa. :)
Saan ka located? Any chance I can listen to your 4-way set-up?
So, it's tri-amp configuration... Will try biamping once I'm done on the final work. Ang maganda sa multi way drivers not force to voice to its limit or beyond their breaking point.
Ganun talaga... Mahirap e resist ang malikot na idea.... ;D
Medyo malayo ang location ko... Dito ako sa Kuwait... Kelan ka pasyal? :D
Post by: audiojunkie on Sep 02, 2014 at 01:02 PM
we are lucky to be able to access pareng Google,
copy paste lang nagkayari na.....:D
one downside to multiway is the need for more power
to compensate for the insertion losses that the passive
cross-overs bring, but then there is active cross-overing
which is even more flexible.....zero insertion loss...
Lalo na sir sa OB, have to sacrifice sensitivity to get tonal balance.
Medyo mahal lang ang active x-over except it be diyed.
Post by: camoteque on Sep 02, 2014 at 03:04 PM
Medyo malayo ang location ko... Dito ako sa Kuwait... Kelan ka pasyal? :D
Ang layo mo pala! Magpapa book muna ko.
Compared sa total cost of passive parts for a complicated xover, di na rin lalayo sa presyo ng active. I use MiniDsp 2x8 @ $300. Though me additional processing, one would not notice kung di mo lang ipapaalam sa nakikinig. But you have tons of flexibility naman like delay, different types of filters and slopes, EQ, etc.
Post by: JoeyGS on Sep 02, 2014 at 03:06 PM
Where is the best way to get the miniDSP?
Ang layo mo pala! Magpapa book muna ko.
Compared sa total cost of passive parts for a complicated xover, di na rin lalayo sa presyo ng active. I use MiniDsp 2x8 @ $300. Though me additional processing, one would not notice kung di mo lang ipapaalam sa nakikinig. But you have tons of flexibility naman like delay, different types of filters and slopes, EQ, etc.
Post by: audiojunkie on Sep 02, 2014 at 05:59 PM
Ang layo mo pala! Magpapa book muna ko.
Compared sa total cost of passive parts for a complicated xover, di na rin lalayo sa presyo ng active. I use MiniDsp 2x8 @ $300. Though me additional processing, one would not notice kung di mo lang ipapaalam sa nakikinig. But you have tons of flexibility naman like delay, different types of filters and slopes, EQ, etc.
Noted sir... Will check if I can get from suking tindahan...
Post by: camoteque on Sep 02, 2014 at 06:37 PM
Larry,
Where is the best way to get the miniDSP?
Joey,
I ordered it online but paid customs tax when I picked them up at the Post Office. Me pinadala na parang invoice ang customs. Kainis. Forgot the exact amount because that was maybe 3 years ago already.
Post by: deist on Sep 03, 2014 at 01:09 PM
Btw, ang ganda ng craftsmanship ng mga builds mo. two thumbs up! ;)
IMO, one still needs to use calculators/formulas in xover design especially for us beginners to get to the nearest values and so to make life easier. Then change values little by little to get to the desired performance as you tune by ear. Sayang naman ang science di ba kung di pakinabangan. Isa pa, ok lang
Picture of the said xover and horn speaker.
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/280x200q90/23/bday0920091231238.jpg) (http://imageshack.com/f/0nbday0920091231238j)
Post by: deist on Sep 03, 2014 at 01:10 PM
yan din sabi lawyer ko eh... know and follow the rules before you break them! ;D ;D ;D
Post by: JojoD818 on Sep 03, 2014 at 01:15 PM
Pa-share naman ng number ng lawyer mo master, I might need a "creative' thinking lawyer someday ;D >:D
hahaha sure! anong forte ang gusto mo brader? pang criminal o civil case? sabihan mo lang ako which rules you want to break hahaha! ;D ;D ;D
Post by: deist on Sep 03, 2014 at 01:17 PM
Tama kayo brader, kailangan ang science dito at mathematics aside from endless research form infonet (Internet ). Dinaanan ko yan dagdag bawas ng values kahit meron na value sa calculation. Values are just the starting point pero the actual result depende sa drivers actual performance at integration or blending between drivers. Kahit fixed na ang cut-off freq. kailangan din extended listening session of different genre ng music. Took me almost a year to fine tune and finalized the design. I also accumulated a box of x-over parts dahil sa daming kinahoy na speakers. The added toroid is part of a circuit for bass driver..
Thanks for sharing the details sir. It shows na talagang malaking panahon ang ginugol mo from research to execution.
Thank you sir.... It's my weekend & holidays project ...
Yes, the 3 drivers mounted at flat panel. Woofer w/ H frame enclosure, open at the back but front form like Bandpass type. Originally, it's 12" woofer but found 15" which matches well with the configuration. So, it's now version 2 w/ 15" woofer. Midrange is 6.5" vintage wharfedale coated paper cone (very open in vocal). Twt-1 1" seas & Twt-2 kenwood horn.
Cut-off freq. bass- 80hz/12db, mid- 130hz/6db (low) - 3.5khz/12db (high), T1- 3.5khz/12db~ 22khz(max), T-2- 16khz/12db~ 50khz(max). Mid,T1&T2 are fixed attenuated to not use L-pad. Used same notch filter and impedance equalization from driver original crossover. If you notice freq. gap bet woofer & mid, in theory and number there's freq. hole but in real world of dipole environment our ears will not hear it. I also made the BP low 6db, @ 1 octave it covers down to 65hz. Fine tuning were done by extended listening sessions and opinions from friends who have different sound quality perceptions...
Post by: deist on Sep 03, 2014 at 01:17 PM
hahaha sure! anong forte ang gusto mo brader? pang criminal o civil case? sabihan mo lang ako which rules you want to break hahaha! ;D ;D ;D
Post by: JojoD818 on Sep 03, 2014 at 01:18 PM
Ang layo mo pala! Magpapa book muna ko.
Compared sa total cost of passive parts for a complicated xover, di na rin lalayo sa presyo ng active. I use MiniDsp 2x8 @ $300. Though me additional processing, one would not notice kung di mo lang ipapaalam sa nakikinig. But you have tons of flexibility naman like delay, different types of filters and slopes, EQ, etc.
Delay is very important imho, plus the passive solution also causes phase angle deviations. The best yan naging solution mo brader.
Can you please tell us more about this MiniDSP?
Post by: JojoD818 on Sep 03, 2014 at 01:19 PM
CRIMINAL!!!!! >:D >:D >:D
Hahaha! Somehow, I knew it! >:D
Post by: deist on Sep 03, 2014 at 01:23 PM
Delay is very important imho, plus the passive solution also causes phase angle deviations. The best yan naging solution mo brader.
Can you please tell us more about this MiniDSP?
Post by: deist on Sep 03, 2014 at 01:25 PM
Hahaha! Somehow, I knew it! >:D
Post by: JojoD818 on Sep 03, 2014 at 01:29 PM
malapit na ;) >:D
magtimpi ang unang payo sa akin eh... but if all else failes, naka speed dial naman ang number sa cell ko... >:D
Been hearing a lot of good experience with MiniDSP from many users over at DIYaudio, maybe in my next build will try to incorporate it. Also eager to hear your experience with it sir Larry.
Yes seriously, this may have a big difference when in the right place.
Post by: deist on Sep 03, 2014 at 01:35 PM
magtimpi ang unang payo sa akin eh... but if all else failes, naka speed dial naman ang number sa cell ko... >:D
Post by: majoe on Sep 03, 2014 at 01:35 PM
Been hearing a lot of good experience with MiniDSP from many users over at DIYaudio, maybe in my next build will try to incorporate it. Also eager to hear your experience with it sir Larry.
meron na bang avr may ganitong capability? ito ang matagal ko ng hinahanap na feature sa avr. kaya mag tri amp using active cross over. sayang naman kasi dsp ng avr.
Post by: camoteque on Sep 03, 2014 at 04:06 PM
Delay is very important imho, plus the passive solution also causes phase angle deviations. The best yan naging solution mo brader.
Can you please tell us more about this MiniDSP?
Ang maganda sa DSP, expert ka agad. :) :) :)
Kidding aside, the minidsp 2x8 requires a separate dc supply. Also, a plugin that can be purchased from minidsp.com. Yung sakin, nilagay ko lang sa wooden box but I'm sure mas maganda kung magawan ng magandang aluminum enclosure ito. You need a pc to be able to use the plugin, ofcourse. There is where you do the adjustments and settings.
Digital domain ang processing ng minidsp unlike other active crossovers. Mas flexible siya at mas maraming features. I was able to try a Sony Esprit active analog crossover which is very much expensive compared to the minidsp but I still like the resulting SQ from the minidsp. Mas kapit ika nga. Mas marami pa yatang brand na mas mahal pa sa minidsp pero ok na ko dito.
Importante sakin ang delay kasi if you will see my speakers, nakaforward ang woofers at nasa likod ang compression drivers and compression tweeters. Physically, I have no way anymore of adjusting the vertical alignment of my drivers because of physical constraints. With dsp, I can put some delay sa woofers. Malaking improvement sa integration ng bawat drivers and sa imaging. With dsp also, I was able to EQ bass sa aking system. Me certain frequencies na na-eexcite ng room ko. I cut a few db sa problem freq and ok na. What I don't do is add. I'd rather cut. But it's just me. No equalization sa mids and highs akong ginawa.
Picture of my present speakers
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/280x200q90/853/7mdr.jpg) (http://imageshack.com/f/np7mdrj)
You have the option to use Butterworth, Linkwitz Riley, Bessel. Up to 48db/oct pwede. You can also cut the frequencies where you think your drivers work at their best and can even introduce holes in the frequencies between where two drivers operate para walang masyadong sapawan. Mataas pa sampling rate @96khz. Napakahirap gawin sa passive crossover ng magagawa nito and it will surely cost a lot.
Ang ayaw lang ng mga purists is the additional processing. Pero sa totoo lang, they will not even notice kung di mo lang sasabihin. Maganda pa rin magpatugtog ng plaka! Ang isang compromise solution is to mimic in passive when one had already tuned the settings in digital.
Post by: audiojunkie on Sep 03, 2014 at 06:12 PM
Post by: audiojunkie on Sep 03, 2014 at 06:27 PM
This is what I'm talking about, the calculators/simulators will be a big help as a starting point of a project. Without a solid starting point you will be shooting aimlessly. Thanks sir.
Thanks for sharing the details sir. It shows na talagang malaking panahon ang ginugol mo from research to execution.
Isang pa nakalimutan ko, in the process of fine tuning I installed variable L-pad to be easily adjusted either I have to reduce or increase value. From there I have to start listening again.
From my reading in countless DIY forums, I found the best or suggested distance between drivers for easy integration. Unfortunately, I forgot to save the link.
Post by: camoteque on Sep 03, 2014 at 10:25 PM
Nose bleed ako ngayon sa MiniDSP.... ;D
Basa basa na lang sa net Sir! Mas magaling sila mag explain.
Post by: JojoD818 on Sep 03, 2014 at 11:54 PM
Ang maganda sa DSP, expert ka agad. :) :) :)
Kidding aside, the minidsp 2x8 requires a separate dc supply. Also, a plugin that can be purchased from minidsp.com. Yung sakin, nilagay ko lang sa wooden box but I'm sure mas maganda kung magawan ng magandang aluminum enclosure ito. You need a pc to be able to use the plugin, ofcourse. There is where you do the adjustments and settings.
Digital domain ang processing ng minidsp unlike other active crossovers. Mas flexible siya at mas maraming features. I was able to try a Sony Esprit active analog crossover which is very much expensive compared to the minidsp but I still like the resulting SQ from the minidsp. Mas kapit ika nga. Mas marami pa yatang brand na mas mahal pa sa minidsp pero ok na ko dito.
Importante sakin ang delay kasi if you will see my speakers, nakaforward ang woofers at nasa likod ang compression drivers and compression tweeters. Physically, I have no way anymore of adjusting the vertical alignment of my drivers because of physical constraints. With dsp, I can put some delay sa woofers. Malaking improvement sa integration ng bawat drivers and sa imaging. With dsp also, I was able to EQ bass sa aking system. Me certain frequencies na na-eexcite ng room ko. I cut a few db sa problem freq and ok na. What I don't do is add. I'd rather cut. But it's just me. No equalization sa mids and highs akong ginawa.
Picture of my present speakers
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/280x200q90/853/7mdr.jpg) (http://imageshack.com/f/np7mdrj)
You have the option to use Butterworth, Linkwitz Riley, Bessel. Up to 48db/oct pwede. You can also cut the frequencies where you think your drivers work at their best and can even introduce holes in the frequencies between where two drivers operate para walang masyadong sapawan. Mataas pa sampling rate @96khz. Napakahirap gawin sa passive crossover ng magagawa nito and it will surely cost a lot.
Ang ayaw lang ng mga purists is the additional processing. Pero sa totoo lang, they will not even notice kung di mo lang sasabihin. Maganda pa rin magpatugtog ng plaka! Ang isang compromise solution is to mimic in passive when one had already tuned the settings in digital.
Hi Larry,
Thanks for the concise info brader, parang masarap paglaruan yan. How about EQ'ing? Natuwa ako sa Behringer Ultra Curve, very useful basta wag lang abusive ang use. Oh well, kanya-kanya din yan eh.
Anyway, wala naman siguro problema sa akin ang separate power supply, marunong pa naman ako siguro gumawa nun hahaha! ;D Kaya ko na din gawan ng wood casing yan pero parang mas gusto ko yata kung aluminum brader.
Last question, hindi kaya ako mabaliw sa mga pag ayos ng plugins? I mean, user friendly naman ba siya?
Thanks!
PS: Nice speaker setup bro!
Post by: camoteque on Sep 04, 2014 at 01:38 AM
Hi Larry,
Thanks for the concise info brader, parang masarap paglaruan yan. How about EQ'ing? Natuwa ako sa Behringer Ultra Curve, very useful basta wag lang abusive ang use. Oh well, kanya-kanya din yan eh.
Anyway, wala naman siguro problema sa akin ang separate power supply, marunong pa naman ako siguro gumawa nun hahaha! ;D Kaya ko na din gawan ng wood casing yan pero parang mas gusto ko yata kung aluminum brader.
Last question, hindi kaya ako mabaliw sa mga pag ayos ng plugins? I mean, user friendly naman ba siya?
Thanks!
PS: Nice speaker setup bro!
Thanks bro.
Parang driverack PA+ din ang Behringer di ba? Kays lang parang may tweak pa yata ginagawa sa Behringer para gumanda SQ. Baka di na lalayo yan sa Minidsp kasi pareho halos function. Advantage ng Behringer ay may monitor na agad itong kasama whereas kailangan pa ng PC ng minidsp kung me adjustment ka.
Madali lang ang mga Plugins. Very user friendly. Napakadali magpalit ng cutoff freq and slope. And you can change them even while listening to the speakers. Very minimal lang ang EQ ko at sa woofers lang. Kelangan kong attenuate konti a certain freq na problem sa room ko. Mainly ang adjustment ko ay sa volume control na ng amplifiers sa final blending ng drivers at di na sa minidsp.
Post by: JojoD818 on Sep 04, 2014 at 01:53 PM
Thanks bro.
Parang driverack PA+ din ang Behringer di ba? Kays lang parang may tweak pa yata ginagawa sa Behringer para gumanda SQ. Baka di na lalayo yan sa Minidsp kasi pareho halos function. Advantage ng Behringer ay may monitor na agad itong kasama whereas kailangan pa ng PC ng minidsp kung me adjustment ka.
Madali lang ang mga Plugins. Very user friendly. Napakadali magpalit ng cutoff freq and slope. And you can change them even while listening to the speakers.
Yup mismo brader, it's like the driverack PA+, plus some more bells and whistles. No problem sa SQ management, may experience na ako diyan. Some of the mods at diyaudio owns the Behringer and I did the mods on the Behringer of diyaudio's big boss so I already got my feet wet sabi nga nila.
I tried reading through minidsp site and medyo naintindihan ko naman, akala ko kasi yun mga plugin parang machine language pa. ;D
Quote
Very minimal lang ang EQ ko at sa woofers lang. Kelangan kong attenuate konti a certain freq na problem sa room ko. Mainly ang adjustment ko ay sa volume control na ng amplifiers sa final blending ng drivers at di na sa minidsp.
Ito ang maganda sa Behringer/driverack/minidsp, just enough EQ to flatten the response, may PEQ for correcting room response or kung tinatamad may AEQ (auto eq) using the RTA/Mic input for real-time compensation.
Post by: camoteque on Sep 04, 2014 at 03:02 PM
Grabe pala naman. Ikaw pala ang nagmomodify ng behringer eh! Op amp ba ang pnapalitan?
Di ko gusto ang kinalalabasan sa auto-EQ sa experience ko sa mga gumamit ng driverack. Parang sobrang bright ang tunog. Mas maganda, IME, sa driverack (ewan ko sa behringer) is to flatten ung mga peaks na dinagdag sa auto-EQ. Un namang mga binawasan, as is na lang.
Post by: JojoD818 on Sep 04, 2014 at 03:31 PM
Jojo,
Grabe pala naman. Ikaw pala ang nagmomodify ng behringer eh! Op amp ba ang pnapalitan?
Silent worker lang brad... ;D May options na opamp bypass, or straight bypass ng output section. Yun kasi output section niya may DAC/ADC section pa for the balanced output, what we do is go straight and take the signal right off the DAC and either put an onboard opamp section OR (ito bagay sa atin mga tubero) feed that to a vacuum tube voltage amplifier.
Parang MiniDSP lang din, madami nasisira ulo sa diyaudio sa pag improve - the good thing is maganda naman at may proper foundation ang mods at may improvement talaga, hindi snake oil.
Quote
Di ko gusto ang kinalalabasan sa auto-EQ sa experience ko sa mga gumamit ng driverack. Parang sobrang bright ang tunog. Mas maganda, IME, sa driverack (ewan ko sa behringer) is to flatten ung mga peaks na dinagdag sa auto-EQ. Un namang mga binawasan, as is na lang.
IMHO, dito panalo ang MiniDSP, user-defined lahat via plugins. Unlike sa Behringer at Driverack may pre-programmed na sa UI ang AEQ although pwede naman i-manual select/adjust after the AEQ process, yun nga lang tedious experience.
But like you said, may monitor na sila behringer/driverack unlike si minidsp need pa ng host pc. Small trade-off lang naman so it's going to be somewhat subjective na, per user preference na kung baga.
Naku medyo na side-track na yata ang thread, pero di pa naman OT kasi about multi-drivers pa din naman usapan hehehe... :P Healthy discussion nonetheless.
Post by: xbase on Sep 04, 2014 at 04:23 PM
Post by: majoe on Sep 04, 2014 at 10:37 PM
keep it coming mga master about minidsp/behringer mods. interestedto learn that for proper tuning of our DIY speakers! if ever na gumawa kayo ng ibang thread pa share link. thanks...
ito lang yata talaga solution sa multi drivers configuration para matapatan o mahigitan ang may pinaka magandang full range performance. baka in the near future, ang speaker system natin ay parang midi channels na rin. iba iba ang drivers per instrument at vocals :D
di ko lang alam kung papatok ito sa mga audio purist. hehe.
Post by: audiojunkie on Sep 04, 2014 at 11:06 PM
ito lang yata talaga solution sa multi drivers configuration para matapatan o mahigitan ang may pinaka magandang full range performance. baka in the near future, ang speaker system natin ay parang midi channels na rin. iba iba ang drivers per instrument at vocals :D
di ko lang alam kung papatok ito sa mga audio purist. hehe.
IMHO, FR in a box also has it own way of equalization by volume of stuffing inside. This way it controls any unwanted resonance of the driver and also what frequency you want to tame or highlight to suit your taste.
I had a chance to hear AN at friend's place, it was ok, or may be it just need more tweaking in the stuffing to sound best.
Post by: camoteque on Sep 05, 2014 at 06:05 AM
ito lang yata talaga solution sa multi drivers configuration para matapatan o mahigitan ang may pinaka magandang full range performance. baka in the near future, ang speaker system natin ay parang midi channels na rin. iba iba ang drivers per instrument at vocals :DDi lang naman ito ang solution sa multi-driver speakers. Nandyan din ang passive line-level xover o PLLXO. You can google it. Me thread pa yata ito sa DIYAUDIO.
di ko lang alam kung papatok ito sa mga audio purist. hehe.
Gaya nga nang sabi ko sa mga nauna kong posts, kung blind testing, mas malaki possibility na di man malalaman ng nakikinig na gumamit ka ng digital /analog active xover kung di mo lang sasabihin. I think the advantages outweighs the disadvantages (as compared to passive xover ha). Parang naka-fullrange din ang coupling ng drivers sa amplifiers kaya full control ang amps sa drivers.
Di man siguro OT ito kasi speaker DIYers naman ang thread.
Post by: camoteque on Sep 05, 2014 at 06:27 AM
Actually yan ang plano ko in the future. Maybe a simple full range para kapag uugod-ugod na ko, isa o dalawang switch na lang ang i-oopen ko may music na ko. Ngayon kasi, I have to turn-on 9 switches including 2 AVRs para makinig ng plaka, 7 switches naman pag digital. Ha ha!
Post by: tony on Sep 05, 2014 at 07:33 AM
May solusyon pala sa "audio purists" - bumili ng dalawang system. :)
Actually yan ang plano ko in the future. Maybe a simple full range para kapag uugod-ugod na ko, isa o dalawang switch na lang ang i-oopen ko may music na ko. Ngayon kasi, I have to turn-on 9 switches including 2 AVRs para makinig ng plaka, 7 switches naman pag digital. Ha ha!
Larry,
yung sa akin isa lang ang switch tutunog na, parang radyo....:D
we are lucky to be in a changing world, no more shyness about using DACs
and active cross-overs which are SS and then using tubes to connect to speakers...
this can only mean more enjoyment for the audio enthusiast,
the diy'ers never ending quest for that magical sound without
nescessarily breaking the bank goes on unimpeded....:D
Post by: camoteque on Sep 05, 2014 at 07:46 AM
Correct ka Sir!. Sa akin lang, the moment you said to yourself na Game Over na dahil nakuha mo na gusto mo tunog is the time you also stop na sa audio and concern yourself with other hobbies. Never ending kasi ang audio.
Post by: JojoD818 on Sep 05, 2014 at 02:29 PM
Post by: timber715 on Sep 05, 2014 at 03:17 PM
the day it ends is the day I die... I'm desperately trying other hobbies but I end up where I started...Ako naman, when i die... I will try something new. Hehehe
Post by: Gino on Sep 05, 2014 at 03:57 PM
Post by: JojoD818 on Sep 05, 2014 at 04:39 PM
Ako naman, when i die... I will try something new. Hehehe
ayos brader, death is only the beginning hehehe...
Post by: tony on Sep 05, 2014 at 04:50 PM
Tony,
Correct ka Sir!. Sa akin lang, the moment you said to yourself na Game Over na dahil nakuha mo na gusto mo tunog is the time you also stop na sa audio and concern yourself with other hobbies. Never ending kasi ang audio.
"game over" is a greek word with me..... ;) i still have over a thousand tubes to play with, tapos dinagdagan mo pa, :D i was so intrigued by that 837 you gave me, i checked the net and price is very reasonable, you can buy under a dozen with the price of the KT-150...;) right now i am looking at Tim DeP, someone gave me a quad of EL-509's....so how can i stop when people keep giving me tubes? :D
and i can't convince Gerry Sta Maria and Rey Luis to stop bringing me tubes... ;D >:D
Post by: timber715 on Sep 05, 2014 at 07:27 PM
The coffin you will make must be awesome.Nope, no coffin.... A simple box suits me fine. What i probably do is visit people na makulit tapos sila naman kuklitin ko. Hehehe
Post by: audiojunkie on Sep 05, 2014 at 07:32 PM
The coffin you will make must be awesome.
Harbeth box inspired...
Post by: Gino on Sep 05, 2014 at 08:18 PM
Post by: JojoD818 on Sep 05, 2014 at 08:55 PM
Nope, no coffin.... A simple box suits me fine. What i probably do is visit people na makulit tapos sila naman kuklitin ko. Hehehe
Hahaha ayos labas ang kulit niyan! >:D
Post by: vennsky on Sep 12, 2014 at 11:19 PM
hi mga bro nag try ako diy acrylic baffle for my jbl 2500..
material used : acrylic
thickness : 12mm
used stainless allen bolt and nuts.
(http://i966.photobucket.com/albums/ae146/vennsky123/DSC_1041_zps398b0760.jpg) (http://s966.photobucket.com/user/vennsky123/media/DSC_1041_zps398b0760.jpg.html)
Post by: JojoD818 on Sep 12, 2014 at 11:32 PM
Post by: Gino on Sep 12, 2014 at 11:34 PM
Post by: audiojunkie on Sep 13, 2014 at 04:22 AM
Waterfall Audio style...
Post by: camoteque on Sep 13, 2014 at 07:02 AM
(http://i966.photobucket.com/albums/ae146/vennsky123/DSC_1042_zps56a258ff.jpg) (http://s966.photobucket.com/user/vennsky123/media/DSC_1042_zps56a258ff.jpg.html)
hi mga bro nag try ako diy acrylic baffle for my jbl 2500..
material used : acrylic
thickness : 12mm
used stainless allen bolt and nuts.
(http://i966.photobucket.com/albums/ae146/vennsky123/DSC_1041_zps398b0760.jpg) (http://s966.photobucket.com/user/vennsky123/media/DSC_1041_zps398b0760.jpg.html)
[/quote(http://i966.photobucket.com/albums/ae146/vennsky123/DSC_1042_zps56a258ff.jpg) (http://s966.photobucket.com/user/vennsky123/media/DSC_1042_zps56a258ff.jpg.html)
hi mga bro nag try ako diy acrylic baffle for my jbl 2500..
material used : acrylic
thickness : 12mm
used stainless allen bolt and nuts.
(http://i966.photobucket.com/albums/ae146/vennsky123/DSC_1041_zps398b0760.jpg) (http://s966.photobucket.com/user/vennsky123/media/DSC_1041_zps398b0760.jpg.html)
Beautiful! Paano stuffing? Ang taas ng wife acceptance factor nito!
Never
Post by: vennsky on Sep 13, 2014 at 12:07 PM
eto na po updatejbl L2500 but the dome tweeter is infinity reference gamit ko. thx 4 viewing bro
Post by: audiojunkie on Sep 13, 2014 at 12:30 PM
Seguro mas bagay kung white poly fill ang gamitin mo....
Was it cut by laser or table saw? How you smoothen the edges?
Post by: vennsky on Sep 13, 2014 at 04:29 PM
Post by: vennsky on Sep 13, 2014 at 04:38 PM
Post by: vennsky on Sep 13, 2014 at 04:42 PM
Post by: audiojunkie on Sep 13, 2014 at 08:52 PM
HI BRO SA CIRCULAR SAW LNG YAN YON EDGE NAKA ESKUALA LNG MAGANDA..
Bro, Nasubukan nyo na ba patunugin without the foam inside? Baka maganda ang resonance ng acrylic. Waterfall audio models completely empty yung box except made of glass...
Post by: JojoD818 on Sep 14, 2014 at 01:57 AM
Post by: vennsky on Sep 14, 2014 at 07:11 AM
Post by: camoteque on Sep 14, 2014 at 07:27 AM
Have you compared the sound quality with the drivers in the original boxes? Curious lang kasi definitely magkaiba resonance ng dalawang boxes.
Post by: JojoD818 on Sep 14, 2014 at 01:59 PM
try ko subukan walang foam. chloroform gamit ko sa dikit bro.
Thanks bro, I assume syringe din ang applicator mo.
Post by: redstarrising on Sep 14, 2014 at 02:06 PM
Post by: redstarrising on Sep 14, 2014 at 02:09 PM
Thanks bro, I assume syringe din ang applicator mo.
mostly nakikita ko syringe yun gamit with chlorofoam inside but they modify yun push lever into wood.
Post by: JojoD818 on Sep 14, 2014 at 02:15 PM
mostly nakikita ko syringe yun gamit with chlorofoam inside but they modify yun push lever into wood.
oo nga ganun gamit nila pag apply sir. matindi yan chloroform kaunti lang pero madikit na.
Post by: redstarrising on Sep 14, 2014 at 02:28 PM
oo nga ganun gamit nila pag apply sir. matindi yan chloroform kaunti lang pero madikit na.
oo nga ganun gamit nila pag apply sir. matindi yan chloroform kaunti lang pero madikit na.sobra dikit nakikita ko, meron nabibili sa rizal avenue sta cruz manila sa mc donnell yata yun na chlorofoam at mga acrylic puede pre -cut din, medyo mahal yung chlorofoam nasa P1,000 plus ata per bottle. meron din gumagawa any shape at pede rin cover ng TT or platter or foot shape sa katabi lang noon store.
Post by: vennsky on Sep 14, 2014 at 05:05 PM
Post by: vennsky on Sep 14, 2014 at 05:08 PM
Post by: tony on Sep 14, 2014 at 07:37 PM
bro syringe ang gamit ko konti lng dikit na. acrylic supplier kami at cutting din.
sir, meron kayong acrylic na opaque black na 12mm? please pm me contact details....
Post by: vennsky on Sep 14, 2014 at 09:49 PM
Post by: JojoD818 on Sep 15, 2014 at 12:39 PM
bro syringe ang gamit ko konti lng dikit na. acrylic supplier kami at cutting din.
I see... maganda pang projects yan sir... btw, what's the going rate for a square foot of 12mm and 18mm nowadays?
Thanks
Post by: audiojunkie on Sep 15, 2014 at 12:53 PM
Ayos! Meron na in-house supplier & cutting pa....
Post by: tony on Sep 17, 2014 at 01:54 PM
clear lng meron ako 12mm and 18mm. opaque black ko 2mm at 3mm
magkano pa cut ng 12mm acrylic 15 inches x 3 1/2 inches, please pm me and shop location, thanks....
Post by: JoeyGS on Sep 18, 2014 at 05:14 PM
I see... maganda pang projects yan sir... btw, what's the going rate for a square foot of 12mm and 18mm nowadays?
Thanks
Post by: JojoD818 on Sep 18, 2014 at 09:15 PM
Acrylic covers for your amps would be nice and would not react with the transformers as compared to metal covers......
Looks good to me too, just thinking about not having a Faraday shield.
Post by: markcrenz on Sep 19, 2014 at 08:02 AM
Acrylic covers for your amps would be nice and would not react with the transformers as compared to metal covers......are metal covers bad?
Post by: vennsky on Sep 19, 2014 at 10:43 PM
magkano pa cut ng 12mm acrylic 15 inches x 3 1/2 inches, please pm me and shop location, thanks....
hi bro eto landline ko 3630909..edward name ko.thx
Post by: remington on Oct 05, 2014 at 02:00 PM
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/newest%20set%20up/SAM_0518_zps2ef4ad86.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/newest%20set%20up/SAM_0518_zps2ef4ad86.jpg.html)
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/newest%20set%20up/SAM_0519_zps70d0a017.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/newest%20set%20up/SAM_0519_zps70d0a017.jpg.html)
Post by: JoeyGS on Oct 05, 2014 at 02:13 PM
OR this is another idea: http://wellroundedsound.com/collections/products/speakers (http://wellroundedsound.com/collections/products/speakers)
(http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0217/8920/products/corgi_1024x1024.jpg?v=1364828535)
(http://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0217/8920/products/Yorkie_EXR_Adj1_1024x1024.jpg?v=1403969568)
Post by: geriboy on Oct 05, 2014 at 02:51 PM
Post by: remington on Oct 05, 2014 at 03:00 PM
Post by: audiojunkie on Oct 14, 2014 at 04:14 AM
ReTazO-OB15 originaly OB12 - replaced 12" with 15" woofer at H-frame enclosure. The 12" dia. baffle cut became bandpass port. Same X-over configuration posted earlier.
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/ram_on/TUBE/imagejpg3_zps85c1363d.jpg)
Front
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/ram_on/TUBE/imagejpg1_zps4d95c74d.jpg)
Side
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/ram_on/TUBE/imagejpg2_zpsa61236f7.jpg)
Back
Details...
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/ram_on/TUBE/imagejpg1_zps0a3d46ee.jpg)
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/ram_on/TUBE/imagejpg2_zps7dbf2661.jpg)
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/ram_on/TUBE/imagejpg1_zps44c19281.jpg)
Thanks for looking... ;D
Post by: xbase on Oct 14, 2014 at 02:37 PM
Post by: painted_black on Oct 14, 2014 at 03:09 PM
Post by: audiojunkie on Oct 14, 2014 at 06:10 PM
beautiful creation sir audiojunkie!
Thank you sir xbase...;D
Post by: audiojunkie on Oct 14, 2014 at 06:21 PM
Ganda ng DIY speaker mo sir. Anong kahoy ang ginamit nyo?
Salamat sir... Mixed ng solid wood, plywood & MDF. front panel plywood used in cargo shipping, maganda lang yung outer layer. Side panels & woofer enclosure made form old furniture. Base from local furniture shop but not good quality so wood grain not clear on varnish.
Same wood used in the crossover box...
OB15 Crossover
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/ram_on/x-over/imagejpg1_zpseaeaa2cc.jpg)
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/ram_on/x-over/imagejpg1_zps12fd4d59.jpg)
Post by: parasound on Oct 14, 2014 at 06:42 PM
Salamat sir... Mixed ng solid wood, plywood & MDF. front panel plywood used in cargo shipping, maganda lang yung outer layer. Side panels & woofer enclosure made form old furniture. Base from local furniture shop but not good quality so wood grain not clear on varnish.
Same wood used in the crossover box...
OB15 Crossover
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/ram_on/x-over/imagejpg1_zpseaeaa2cc.jpg)
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/ram_on/x-over/imagejpg1_zps12fd4d59.jpg)
Post by: audiojunkie on Oct 20, 2014 at 03:19 AM
ang lupit sir.. ganda :o :o
Salamat sir... Kahit papaano lumabas na presentable.. Kahit kulang sa gamit at nakakapagod rin gumawa magisa... ;)
Post by: audiojunkie on Oct 20, 2014 at 03:38 AM
MDF frame CNC cut...
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/ram_on/TUBE/imagejpg1_zpsc71697d7.jpg)
Fabric tacked & glued..
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/ram_on/TUBE/imagejpg2_zpsf6c3b4d8.jpg)
Before...
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/ram_on/TUBE/imagejpg2_zps7dbf2661.jpg)
After...
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/ram_on/TUBE/imagejpg1_zps8442cdf7.jpg)
;D
Post by: audiojunkie on Dec 13, 2014 at 10:51 PM
Electro Voice 15" EVM-15L
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/ram_on/DIY/imagejpg1_zpsff656f67.jpg)
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/ram_on/DIY/imagejpg3_zps110ac76c.jpg)
(http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa316/ram_on/DIY/imagejpg2_zps210dc179.jpg)
Magnets bit soiled and no markings to ID the drivers. Cast frame and cone look in very good condition and works perfectly. My source gave me this info, Electro-Voice EVM-15L.
Detailed specs:
http://www.electrovoice.com/downloadfile.php?i=971123
- Any recommendation of type and size of enclosure. Frequency range where it will work best based on specs link above.
Post by: parasound on Dec 13, 2014 at 11:25 PM
Or Onken
Post by: audiojunkie on Dec 14, 2014 at 01:29 AM
Try mo jbl c34 - http://www.lansingheritage.org/html/jbl/plans/C34.htm
Or Onken
Salamat sir sa suggestion... Maganda yan for LF extension...with matching horn tweeter.
Post by: parasound on Dec 14, 2014 at 02:30 AM
Post by: audiojunkie on Dec 14, 2014 at 02:38 AM
Super tweeter na lang kulang mo sir , JBL 075 or 2405 ok na..
Medyo pricey nabanggit nyong mga tweeter sir.... try ko muna kun pwede mga tweet tweet ko dito... ;)
Post by: audiojunkie on Dec 14, 2014 at 03:26 PM
Onken as suggested...
(http://i1350.photobucket.com/albums/p778/JNouw/Onken/view1_zps35d2ddfc.jpg)
* Image from other DIY forum.
Post by: parasound on Dec 14, 2014 at 04:30 PM
Pang corner .. Search Jensen ultraflex, Onken comes from Jensen ultraflex design that becomes popular in Japan
Post by: audiojunkie on Dec 14, 2014 at 07:01 PM
Post by: camoteque on Dec 15, 2014 at 03:48 PM
Not so much LF, IMO, because of high Fs.
Post by: audiojunkie on Dec 15, 2014 at 04:10 PM
Those EVs are great for midbass horns!
Not so much LF, IMO, because of high Fs.
Any recommended horn design & size.
Extracted this TS parameters from online specs.
Fs - 43Hz
Qts - .238
Qms - 4.96
Qes - .250
Vas - .245
Xmax - 3.3mm
Re - 5.2 ohms
Post by: camoteque on Dec 16, 2014 at 12:35 PM
Any recommended horn design & size.
Extracted this TS parameters from online specs.
Fs - 43Hz
Qts - .238
Qms - 4.96
Qes - .250
Vas - .245
Xmax - 3.3mm
Re - 5.2 ohms
I thought the usable frequency response is 60-6000hz.
Inlowsound, if I'm not mistaken. designed before a midbass horn based on the EVM15l. It's the one pictured below where the JBL tweeter sits.
(http://i.imgur.com/MuOSeJA.jpg)
These midbass horns are actually what I'm using at home but with Altec 803 woofers as drivers. These, in my experience, are best mated with midhorns for coherency and vice-versa.
Post by: audiojunkie on Dec 16, 2014 at 12:48 PM
Thanks for the info sir camoteque, I haven't tried yet the driver. Will compare it from the 15" in my OB. Got info from my friend, it was pulled out from huge box with small tweeters.
Post by: psychro on Jan 20, 2015 at 05:48 PM
Post by: Nelson de Leon on Jan 20, 2015 at 06:34 PM
http://www.pinoydvd.com/index.php/topic,168459.msg2222616.html#msg2222616
Post by: Gino on Jan 20, 2015 at 06:42 PM
Realistically ang naabsorb ng acoustic foam is 500hz and up. So perfect for my 100hz tuned ported bookshelf. Mids and highs ang lilinisin.
Mayroon ka ba nun?
Post by: Nelson de Leon on Jan 20, 2015 at 06:46 PM
Naghahap ako Nelson ng treatment para sa 5 liter DIY bookshelf speaker ko. Kaso ang hinahanap ko is 1" dense open cell foam. Yung walang eggshell moulding Flat.
Realistically ang naabsorb ng acoustic foam is 500hz and up. So perfect for my 100hz tuned ported bookshelf. Mids and highs ang lilinisin.
Mayroon ka ba nun?
I think I have plain surface pero it's 2" thick. Will that do?
Post by: Gino on Jan 20, 2015 at 06:56 PM
Post by: deist on Jan 20, 2015 at 06:59 PM
Post by: Nelson de Leon on Jan 20, 2015 at 10:57 PM
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/1CKjUO4cnGVC2-FKephBJa6MqudFGvuUEtyQUg8s5SA=s206-p-no)
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/wET4m1jXCXZSspdSBcNk4obgKwcFE1nPsAQECoIKB00=s206-p-no)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/IXQSbQuiZdZO6Uf9hTmDAoYhW9ZVAg084dcWq24Y9Rg=s206-p-no)
Pardon the cam pics. Wala kasi akong dedicated camera.
Post by: Gino on Jan 20, 2015 at 11:12 PM
Post by: Nelson de Leon on Jan 20, 2015 at 11:47 PM
Looks the part. 1 inch sana perfect for me.
Aw. Text the dimensions you need. I might able to do something about it.
Post by: cyberdraven on Jan 22, 2015 at 02:13 PM
Post by: grizzom on Jan 22, 2015 at 03:59 PM
Post by: audiojunkie on Jan 22, 2015 at 06:08 PM
anyone here that builds crossover? hehe
Check this sir...
http://www.pinoydvd.com/index.php/topic,66494.3180.html
Post by: cyberdraven on Jan 22, 2015 at 06:19 PM
Check this sir...
http://www.pinoydvd.com/index.php/topic,66494.3180.html
nice one! pm sent sir
Post by: audiojunkie on Jan 22, 2015 at 06:33 PM
nice one! pm sent sir
Replied sir ...
Post by: eestrera on Feb 07, 2015 at 08:45 PM
Drivers were bought 3 years ago and just managed to have time to build boxes for this. These are full range 3"wood cone speakers at 4ohms each so I wired them together to get an 8ohm. Each driver is separately enclosed on its own angular spiral enclosure.
Very happy with it. Small drivers with a very big sound. Details are excellent. Decent base I attribute to the cabinet design. And the best thing about it, easy to drive. Just using my Dayton tripath to power it.
Stands are a combination or reclaimed narra, ipil, and excess Canadian pine I used for a project.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/527x395q90/538/9DCaf6.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/296x395q90/537/ytUAfp.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/296x395q90/673/9L99Qw.jpg)
(https://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/450x600q50/540/e35ORf.jpg)
Thanks,
eestrera
Post by: dodie on Feb 07, 2015 at 08:49 PM
Post by: Gino on Feb 07, 2015 at 09:10 PM
Post by: deist on Feb 07, 2015 at 09:19 PM
Post by: RXV on Feb 07, 2015 at 11:01 PM
Post by: tony on Feb 08, 2015 at 09:28 AM
Post by: shrek7 on Feb 08, 2015 at 10:18 AM
Post by: CMac on Feb 08, 2015 at 10:35 AM
Post by: bb3 on Feb 08, 2015 at 11:28 AM
Post by: titan on Feb 08, 2015 at 02:09 PM
Post by: Nelson de Leon on Feb 08, 2015 at 02:09 PM
@eestrera - beautiful speakers! parang jvc-victor yung drivers sir? Galing ng woodworking, ganda pa ng ginamit na kahoy. Congrats! 8)
Para ngang jvc-victor.
Post by: eestrera on Feb 08, 2015 at 07:24 PM
Post by: Gino on Feb 08, 2015 at 07:40 PM
If have not already done so, and if there is room, try listening with the speakers 1/3 the length of the room form front wall. Then chair 1/3 the length from the back wall. You will bring out the bass.
Post by: arbitrage on Feb 10, 2015 at 09:25 PM
Post by: Nelson de Leon on Feb 10, 2015 at 11:29 PM
I heard those JVC wood cones many years back when I was pitching for the JVC account. We were brought to their Pasay Rd showroom. Very crisp sound speakers. They couldn't make them bigger because the material would not be able to sustain the stress.
If have not already done so, and if there is room, try listening with the speakers 1/3 the length of the room form front wall. Then chair 1/3 the length from the back wall. You will bring out the bass.
Napansin ko din yan for a driver that small.
Post by: eestrera on Feb 11, 2015 at 06:34 AM
Post by: kranoz on Mar 26, 2015 at 10:18 AM
I'm planning on doing DIY speakers in the future.
I'm thinking on using Bamboo plywood, is this a good idea?
Anyone knows kung saan may nabibiling bamboo plywood?
Tia!
Post by: mykel18 on Mar 26, 2015 at 11:02 AM
Post by: deist on Mar 26, 2015 at 11:31 AM
Hi, guys.
I'm planning on doing DIY speakers in the future.
I'm thinking on using Bamboo plywood, is this a good idea?
Anyone knows kung saan may nabibiling bamboo plywood?
Tia!
Post by: kayee on Mar 31, 2015 at 07:37 AM
Post by: RXV on Mar 31, 2015 at 10:00 AM
Post by: Gino on Mar 31, 2015 at 10:04 AM
Post by: camoteque on Mar 31, 2015 at 10:39 AM
sir try this "south sea veneer corp" contact number #893-330-346 di pa ako naka pag inquire but they are making a bamboo type tiles for flooring....baka meron sila na big sizes sir...
South Sea Veneer is a locator of ours in Mabalacat. I think what they do have is only veneer slices and not the ply type. They have beautiful real wood veneers though. Only that they do not sell veneer pieces but they contract veneering for furniture manufacturers and other customers.
Below is a open baffle I made which was veneered by them
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/280x200q90/823/img3543p.jpg) (http://imageshack.com/f/mvimg3543pj)
Post by: RXV on Mar 31, 2015 at 11:07 AM
I like to see YOURS in action. What happened to it?
Haha oo nga e Gino, hindi ko na naasikaso :(
Tinatapos ko pa car audio ko. Subukan ko nang tapusin after :)
Post by: Gino on Mar 31, 2015 at 11:51 AM
Post by: RXV on Mar 31, 2015 at 08:25 PM
Switch channel ka pala. What's is going into the car? Fancy false floor in the trunk or straight installation?
Hindi naman. Pinagsabay lang haha. Experimental full range din sa car hehe. Fancy trunk installation :)
Post by: Gino on Apr 01, 2015 at 09:36 AM
Post by: RXV on Apr 01, 2015 at 01:35 PM
I also opted to use tubes for my car audio, but I decided against it. Mas maraming hassle e kesa benefits. At baka masira ang tubes sa intense vibration, sayang lang :)
Post by: Gino on Apr 01, 2015 at 03:39 PM
Post by: hobbymaster2003 on Apr 09, 2015 at 11:02 AM
Post by: tony on Apr 09, 2015 at 11:17 AM
hi mga master...i need a full range speaker na mga 2.5"-3" lang diameter...parang mga bose...anybody can point me the right direction would be greatly appreciated. thanks in advance mga bossing.
dami nyan sa Raon...tyaga langsa paghahanap....
Post by: hobbymaster2003 on Apr 27, 2015 at 01:19 PM
Post by: tony on Apr 27, 2015 at 05:04 PM
Post by: rochie on Apr 27, 2015 at 05:42 PM
hi mga master...i need a full range speaker na mga 2.5"-3" lang diameter...parang mga bose...anybody can point me the right direction would be greatly appreciated. thanks in advance mga bossing.
kung hanap mo 8inches meron ako, alnico magnet.
Post by: DTNS on Apr 28, 2015 at 02:38 PM
Bamboo is what DeVore Fidelity uses on their speakers.
Audioengine also uses bamboo in some of their speakers.
Post by: camoteque on May 12, 2015 at 11:31 AM
(http://i.imgur.com/Aax9l4f.jpg)
Ply laminated with this veneer
(http://i.imgur.com/xjZHehs.jpg)
I got this solid wood that I will use for the framing of the baffle.
(http://i.imgur.com/gHJdJlS.jpg)
Our inspiration
(http://i.imgur.com/3y7Il9g.jpg)
Post by: remington on May 12, 2015 at 11:38 AM
Post by: camoteque on May 12, 2015 at 11:45 AM
maganda sigurado finish nyan!!!!eye and ear candy :o :o :o
Sana nga! Ha ha.
Post by: shrek7 on May 12, 2015 at 08:28 PM
Post by: camoteque on May 12, 2015 at 10:04 PM
Ganda naman nyan sir! Anong design ng enclosure? Sale din po ba sir sa GR?
May konting difference lang sa 5.6mk2 like volume adjustment to compensate for doubling of panel where the AN sits. Also, I will try a downfiring port as requested by owner. If this will not work well, I can simply close the bottom port and go back to the original design.
Parang kensington ang itsura with maybe a minor variation.
Post by: shrek7 on May 13, 2015 at 07:10 AM
Post by: camoteque on May 21, 2015 at 10:24 AM
(http://i.imgur.com/bwdztIR.jpg?1)
Post by: remington on May 21, 2015 at 10:31 AM
Post by: camoteque on May 21, 2015 at 10:38 AM
WOW naman :o :o :o hexited na sa magiging finish ;D
Bro marami pa idea ang may-ari. Baka may magbago pa.
Post by: RXV on May 21, 2015 at 10:51 AM
Post by: camoteque on May 22, 2015 at 07:52 PM
(http://i.imgur.com/wduWkAh.jpg)
Some more routing and planing to do.
Post by: bennjude19 on May 23, 2015 at 05:07 PM
Post by: camoteque on May 23, 2015 at 06:31 PM
(http://i.imgur.com/Y7shnHh.jpg?1)
A lot more work to do. Hope the owner will appreciate the effort spent making this cabinet. :)
Post by: J-M on May 24, 2015 at 01:46 AM
Post by: Superman on May 25, 2015 at 08:48 AM
Post by: camoteque on May 27, 2015 at 12:53 PM
Some more details and pwede na isara ang cabinet. Had to put in place the double baffle and T-nuts next.
(http://i.imgur.com/1Kx9mAI.jpg)
Post by: deist on May 27, 2015 at 03:22 PM
Update lang sa AN project.
Some more details and pwede na isara ang cabinet. Had to put in place the double baffle and T-nuts next.
(http://i.imgur.com/1Kx9mAI.jpg)
Post by: Gino on May 27, 2015 at 03:28 PM
In the pictures, the veneer sample was warpy if you excuse the word. I thought they were bought flat. Is that how veneer is sold? Scary pala. Looks very fragile.
Post by: shrek7 on May 27, 2015 at 03:33 PM
Post by: RXV on May 27, 2015 at 03:38 PM
I noticed the box had veneer before the shaping of the trim pieces. Was the veneer applied after the basic box was made or as plywood sheets?
In the pictures, the veneer sample was warpy if you excuse the word. I thought they were bought flat. Is that how veneer is sold? Scary pala. Looks very fragile.
I believe sir Larry applied the veneer on the plywood first, prior to making the box (as seen in his previous posts). Galing ng craftsmanship, kasi kung hindi kasi marunong ang gagawa, e sisilip ang plywood layers or hindi exact fit. Kudos to the maker.
I think the veneer is a bit warpy because it is real wood veneer yata. Usually nga flat, sobrang thin siguro ang layer nito or walang sheet backing.
Post by: camoteque on May 27, 2015 at 03:47 PM
I noticed the box had veneer before the shaping of the trim pieces. Was the veneer applied after the basic box was made or as plywood sheets?
In the pictures, the veneer sample was warpy if you excuse the word. I thought they were bought flat. Is that how veneer is sold? Scary pala. Looks very fragile.
The veneer was applied to plywood pieces using a hot press machine. Yes warpy talaga and fragile ang wood veneer since less than a mm lang ang thickness nito. What you see in the pictures are double ply veneer applied to plywood. I was lucky to be working in an industrial facility where a veneering company is located.
If the cabinet is finished already, you will have a hard time veneering although doable naman applying veneer. We have done this when we refurbished a JBL paragon speaker pero mahirap. Rugby ang pwedeng pandikit.
Post by: deist on May 27, 2015 at 03:59 PM
Most real wood veneer is .6mm, sa western countries merong mga available na "paper backed" & double ply which I think is mas madaling i-apply.
The veneer was applied to plywood pieces using a hot press machine. Yes warpy talaga and fragile ang wood veneer since less than a mm lang ang thickness nito. What you see in the pictures are double ply veneer applied to plywood. I was lucky to be working in an industrial facility where a veneering company is located.
If the cabinet is finished already, you will have a hard time veneering although doable naman applying veneer. We have done this when we refurbished a JBL paragon speaker pero mahirap. Rugby ang pwedeng pandikit.
Post by: Gino on May 27, 2015 at 04:11 PM
This build is really awesome and shows why such speakers are very expensive. Given the amount of work and in this heat, the craftsman deserves his pay.
I just worked on tiny bookshelf speakers and it felt like I was building a house. High respect to you guys tackling larger projects like RXV's.
Post by: deist on May 27, 2015 at 04:18 PM
2-ply or wood-on-wood veneer
Quote
Wood-on-wood, also known as "2-ply veneer" is two wood veneers permanently bonded together. The face veneer grain is perpendicular to the backer veneer which provides protection against bubbling which occurs when a veneer is improperly bonded to the substrate. This type of "crossband construction" allows the veneer to bend on moderate curves in the horizontal or vertical direction. The veneer used on the back side of a 2-ply veneer is often an imported hardwood of lesser value.
;)
Post by: deist on May 27, 2015 at 04:19 PM
Sir Larry,
If I don't have access to a hot machine press & will do the veneering manually, how would you suggest I go about it?
Thanks!
Post by: RXV on May 27, 2015 at 05:02 PM
Sir Larry,
If I don't have access to a hot machine press & will do the veneering manually, how would you suggest I go about it?
Thanks!
Alam ko sir Deist, normal iron gamit e, may paper/cloth in between lang para hindi masunog ang veneer. Maybe sir Larry can chime in.
Veneering is definitely one of the skills that I will hope to learn in the future.
Post by: timber715 on May 28, 2015 at 04:52 AM
Post by: camoteque on May 29, 2015 at 11:51 AM
Larry, do you have access to hide glue?
Timber,
May mga gumagawa ng guitars dito sa San Anton, Guagua. I have requested someone to ask one of the workers there what glue they are using and where they purchase. I will let you know if there is feedback already.
Post by: camoteque on May 29, 2015 at 12:12 PM
Sir Larry,
If I don't have access to a hot machine press & will do the veneering manually, how would you suggest I go about it?
Thanks!
Depends on the condition of the veneer that you will buy. Meron kasi na halos flat na at walang mga bumps o bukol. If no special glue can be found, pwede na ang contact cement pero dapat yung malabnaw at madali ipahid. Apply evenly to both sides, making sure that walang magbubuo-buo na contact cement. Kung meron man, dapat alisin agad ang namuo kasi siguradong babakat sa ibabaw ng veneer yun pag na-flatten na. You can use wooden rollers katulad sa baking or kung wala kahit rubber slippers lang to flatten ung veneer na dinidikit mo making sure walang bubble sa loob. You can use plastic sheet on top of the veneer when doing the flattening so as not to damage the veneer.
Ang tricky part ay pag may mga bumps ang veneer na mabibili mo. What we do is to wipe the veneer with moist cloth, let it stand for a few minutes before applying contact cement. Dito medyo kailangan mo na i-press o daganan ng separate piece of plywood ang ginagawa mo. Suggestion ko practice muna sa maliliit na pieces. Ang dami kaya namin nadamaged nung unang gumagawa ng ganyan kaya practice lang.
Pag natuklasan ko kung ano pinangdidikit sa gitara, I will let you know. Definitely mas maganda ito.
Post by: Gino on May 29, 2015 at 02:22 PM
Post by: deist on May 29, 2015 at 03:00 PM
Post by: RXV on May 29, 2015 at 03:07 PM
Para naman tumagal DIY builds ko in the future haha O0
Post by: Superman on May 29, 2015 at 03:12 PM
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003AYTJSC?ie=UTF8&tag=fretnotguitar-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B003AYTJSC
http://www.franklinadhesivesandpolymers.com/Home/Whats-New/Taylor_Guitars_Adhesives.aspx
Post by: camoteque on Jun 02, 2015 at 12:48 PM
(http://i.imgur.com/01fnuw5.jpg)
Slow progress. Slow but sure!
Post by: RXV on Jun 02, 2015 at 01:14 PM
Great quality both inside and out :)
Post by: @lvins on Jun 02, 2015 at 02:00 PM
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xtf1/v/t1.0-9/11391340_495966340571281_5863150056972701586_n.jpg?oh=6c68f6715ecf20b7342732ad1f21c04a&oe=5607D0A4&__gda__=1441349119_42244a14d26bd3d93d1770b098c24d8d)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpt1/v/t1.0-9/11248341_495966400571275_4756433075835046428_n.jpg?oh=6270e94d48bf4e3e9a498740aa7534ca&oe=55EE68D2&__gda__=1443714774_13b1f11fd4ae7f3735cf4ed52faa9e3e)
(https://scontent-sin1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xat1/v/t1.0-9/11393233_495966427237939_1862556184769386691_n.jpg?oh=80d99a0680addaf7c071397c00822cd7&oe=55ED6464)
ito nadale ng mabait na bata....pinirmahan....
Post by: Nelson de Leon on Jun 02, 2015 at 03:00 PM
Post by: NongP on Jun 02, 2015 at 03:09 PM
Signature series sir :)
Post by: RXV on Jun 02, 2015 at 03:11 PM
Just sharing my Karlson enclosure with Jensen Delta coaxial driver,high region was made using L-pad and thick aluminum sheet.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xtf1/v/t1.0-9/11391340_495966340571281_5863150056972701586_n.jpg?oh=6c68f6715ecf20b7342732ad1f21c04a&oe=5607D0A4&__gda__=1441349119_42244a14d26bd3d93d1770b098c24d8d)
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpt1/v/t1.0-9/11248341_495966400571275_4756433075835046428_n.jpg?oh=6270e94d48bf4e3e9a498740aa7534ca&oe=55EE68D2&__gda__=1443714774_13b1f11fd4ae7f3735cf4ed52faa9e3e)
(https://scontent-sin1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xat1/v/t1.0-9/11393233_495966427237939_1862556184769386691_n.jpg?oh=80d99a0680addaf7c071397c00822cd7&oe=55ED6464)
ito nadale ng mabait na bata....pinirmahan....
Very nice vintage speakers you got there :)
I've always wondered how they would sound, since the design front cover is different from the usual designs..
Post by: RXV on Jun 02, 2015 at 03:12 PM
Heads up! May mga small drivers na binebenta sa HMR sa Ever Commonwealth. You might want to check it out.
Nice! Ano kayang mga drivers yan, and what sizes? Vintage?
Post by: Nelson de Leon on Jun 02, 2015 at 03:27 PM
Nice! Ano kayang mga drivers yan, and what sizes? Vintage?
Not vintage. May 3-4". May 8". I think galing sa mga busted speakers nila. But it's dirt cheap. Yun nakita kong 3" that looks like woofer sells for P60 only. Great for DIY projects if you initially don't want to spend much. Not sure kung new tweeters din for ambient sound like the topic discussed sa As audio thread. Hehe!
Post by: deist on Jun 02, 2015 at 03:35 PM
Post by: RXV on Jun 02, 2015 at 03:38 PM
Not vintage. May 3-4". May 8". I think galing sa mga busted speakers nila. But it's dirt cheap. Yun nakita kong 3" that looks like woofer sells for P60 only. Great for DIY projects if you initially don't want to spend much. Not sure kung new tweeters din for ambient sound like the topic discussed sa As audio thread. Hehe!
Kakainis, sana may malapit na HMR dito. Sarap tignan hehe, mura naman
Post by: Nelson de Leon on Jun 02, 2015 at 03:43 PM
Kakainis, sana may malapit na HMR dito. Sarap tignan hehe, mura naman
Tago mo na lang for future projects as long as gamitin mo siya within 2 years, or you have to wrap it properly.
Post by: RXV on Jun 02, 2015 at 03:49 PM
Tago mo na lang for future projects as long as gamitin mo siya within 2 years, or you have to wrap it properly.
Hehehe sobra na for now e (Actually, there's no such thing as too much in DIY haha).
Post by: Superman on Jun 02, 2015 at 04:38 PM
Post by: @lvins on Jun 02, 2015 at 05:20 PM
@lvins - nice speakers you got there! DIY mo ba yang Karlson enclosures?
Thanks Sir,Yup downloaded the specs for Karlson 12,swak na swak ang Jensen Delta.Bagay sya talaga for coaxials 98db and up,I tried Philips AD1970M but for me Triaxials/coaxials are best for these type of enclosures.
Ganda details,bass is extraordinary...IMHO..anyway sound is always subjective..
Post by: @lvins on Jun 02, 2015 at 05:38 PM
@lvins
Signature series sir :)
naging signature series nga yung isang box,hirap talaga kapag may terrible 2 year old. >:( :)
Post by: deist on Jun 02, 2015 at 07:16 PM
The aperture (unique opening on the front) is what gives this a unique sound. A tighter/punchier bass & rolled off highs are some of the most used description to the sound character from this cabs, the aperture focuses the bass dispersion while tames the highs of some drivers ;)
Thanks Sir,Yup downloaded the specs for Karlson 12,swak na swak ang Jensen Delta.Bagay sya talaga for coaxials 98db and up,I tried Philips AD1970M but for me Triaxials/coaxials are best for these type of enclosures.
Ganda details,bass is extraordinary...IMHO..anyway sound is always subjective..
Post by: deist on Jun 02, 2015 at 07:18 PM
naging signature series nga yung isang box,hirap talaga kapag may terrible 2 year old. >:( :)
Post by: @lvins on Jun 02, 2015 at 07:41 PM
Ayos lang yan sir, also in the same boat as yours. Ganyan talaga pag may little chikiting pa. But I know you will agree with me in saying that any speakers or any audio gear, no matter how good they sound can't even come close to the happiness the little chikiting brings ;) O0
oo naman sir,Amen to that. :)
Post by: Gino on Jun 03, 2015 at 08:50 AM
Post by: RXV on Jun 05, 2015 at 03:50 PM
I need a quick help, nahirapan na ako magresearch ulit, medyo rush kasi. Naresearch ko na dati pero nakalimutan ko na ulit :p
I need to a 1.2uf capacitor to be used for 1st order crossover on a tweeter, pero that value is rarely made, so nearest is using two 0.56uf capacitors (=1.12uf ok na rin) . Ano ba configuration, in PARALLEL or SERIES? And sa + ng tweeter ilalagay di ba? And kailangan ba ireverse ang polarity?
Note: No more resistor will be installed, may attenuator na ako
Post by: cyberdraven on Jun 05, 2015 at 05:29 PM
Guys,
I need a quick help, nahirapan na ako magresearch ulit, medyo rush kasi. Naresearch ko na dati pero nakalimutan ko na ulit :p
I need to a 1.2uf capacitor to be used for 1st order crossover on a tweeter, pero that value is rarely made, so nearest is using two 0.56uf capacitors (=1.12uf ok na rin) . Ano ba configuration, in PARALLEL or SERIES? And sa + ng tweeter ilalagay di ba? And kailangan ba ireverse ang polarity?
Note: No more resistor will be installed, may attenuator na ako
parallel. wire it in series and capacitance will reduce it in half.
http://keisan.casio.com/exec/system/1258035746
Post by: RXV on Jun 05, 2015 at 05:32 PM
parallel. wire it in series and capacitance will reduce it in half.
http://keisan.casio.com/exec/system/1258035746
Salamat parekoy. Ikaw lang naman pala ang dapat kong tinanungan e hehehe
Post by: tony on Jun 05, 2015 at 07:57 PM
Guys,
I need a quick help, nahirapan na ako magresearch ulit, medyo rush kasi. Naresearch ko na dati pero nakalimutan ko na ulit :p
I need to a 1.2uf capacitor to be used for 1st order crossover on a tweeter, pero that value is rarely made, so nearest is using two 0.56uf capacitors (=1.12uf ok na rin) . Ano ba configuration, in PARALLEL or SERIES? And sa + ng tweeter ilalagay di ba? And kailangan ba ireverse ang polarity?
Note: No more resistor will be installed, may attenuator na ako
no use agonizing over exact values, stick a 1ufd cap in there and be done with it...;)
1 ufd film caps are very easy to get, meron nyan sa deeco...
meron din nyan dito...http://www.epektos.com/product/ac2bf3a6-da48-4710-8750-fecf959a1afc.aspx
Post by: RXV on Jun 05, 2015 at 08:28 PM
no use agonizing over exact values, stick a 1ufd cap in there and be done with it...;)
1 ufd film caps are very easy to get, meron nyan sa deeco...
meron din nyan dito...http://www.epektos.com/product/ac2bf3a6-da48-4710-8750-fecf959a1afc.aspx
Thanks for the feedback sir, pero nakaorder na ako kanina e:p
Hopefully tama naman sana ang binili ko :)
Post by: JojoD818 on Jun 06, 2015 at 09:48 AM
Guys,
I need a quick help, nahirapan na ako magresearch ulit, medyo rush kasi. Naresearch ko na dati pero nakalimutan ko na ulit :p
I need to a 1.2uf capacitor to be used for 1st order crossover on a tweeter, pero that value is rarely made, so nearest is using two 0.56uf capacitors (=1.12uf ok na rin) . Ano ba configuration, in PARALLEL or SERIES? And sa + ng tweeter ilalagay di ba? And kailangan ba ireverse ang polarity?
Note: No more resistor will be installed, may attenuator na ako
For brevity, your plan is correct. Parallel two 0.56uf caps to get as close to 1.2uf required.
Yup sa + ng tweeter mo ilagay para lahat ng - sama sama unless you want it to be out of phase, baligtad mo na lang.
A simple tip I can give you is that as you increase octave of the crossover you should at least target the computed capacitance required pero pag 1st order lang ok pa medyo malayo ang values sir.
Post by: cyberdraven on Jun 06, 2015 at 09:50 AM
Post by: JojoD818 on Jun 06, 2015 at 09:54 AM
Bigla kong naalala, 1uf is 20khz cutoff @ 8 ohms. Ganun kataas cut-off for the super tweeter?
Yes, sometimes even higher. It assumes that the main drivers are capable of the nominal bandwidth of up to 20KHz. Otherwise you'll have high frequency splash over.
Post by: cyberdraven on Jun 06, 2015 at 09:58 AM
Yes, sometimes even higher. It assumes that the main drivers are capable of the nominal bandwidth of up to 20KHz. Otherwise you'll have high frequency splash over.
Ah ok. I thought king would love to add some air and i would go for 12khz-16khz region
Post by: RXV on Jun 06, 2015 at 10:21 AM
Ah ok. I thought king would love to add some air and i would go for 12khz-16khz region
Paeng, yun yung target ko kasi around 16-17khz ang sakto sa akin na cut-off.
But yes, kung sakaling 1uf (20khz), okay pa rin. At 20khz may presence pa rin, but siguro 6db slope kasi e
Post by: tony on Jun 06, 2015 at 11:29 AM
Bigla kong naalala, 1uf is 20khz cutoff @ 8 ohms. Ganun kataas cut-off for the super tweeter?
you also need to consider the source impedance as well as the load....
capacitors themselves have a slope of 6db per octave....
starting at a corner frequency determined by the source impedance and load...
Post by: _efren_ on Jun 08, 2015 at 12:48 PM
Pics:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/hifis50
In action:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=obNMUhVq5wI
Post by: camoteque on Jun 09, 2015 at 02:50 PM
Test fitting the cabinet accessories before finishing.
Fitting the binding posts and plate
(http://i.imgur.com/Gs1Gfa6.jpg?1)
Close-up of the binding posts
(http://i.imgur.com/2jixOaY.jpg)
Completed the installation of the damping foam and fiberglass combination
(http://i.imgur.com/eZfiEYX.jpg)
Installed the adjustable footers
(http://i.imgur.com/dVVV3hb.jpg)
Test fitting the driver.
(http://i.imgur.com/8wYirn8.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/LmIXsZf.jpg)
Still in the process of doing the wooden ring surround outside the drivers.
Malapit na matapos! Finishing na.
Post by: RXV on Jun 09, 2015 at 02:56 PM
Post by: CoolTOYZPH on Jun 09, 2015 at 03:20 PM
(http://www.esoteric.jp/products/tannoy/stirlingroyalse/img/stirling_01.jpg)
Nice workmanship.
Post by: remington on Jun 09, 2015 at 03:21 PM
Post by: camoteque on Jun 09, 2015 at 04:02 PM
Looks very similar to the Tannoy Sterling:
(http://www.esoteric.jp/products/tannoy/stirlingroyalse/img/stirling_01.jpg)
Nice workmanship.
Yung Kensington actually ang inspiration nito. May konti lang revisions like yung sa bandang ilalim ng cabinet especially yung experimental porting nito.
Post by: Superman on Jun 09, 2015 at 04:26 PM
Parang ganito pala yan...
(http://www.google.com/url?sa=i&source=imgres&cd=&ved=0CAkQjBwwAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Faudio-heritage.jp%2Faudioshow%2F2014-osin%2Fesoteric%2F0005.jpg&ei=daJ2VZL_I8musAW9voEY&psig=AFQjCNF8n0hYuQ9nvFDyEkq4KoJFzRJTig&ust=1433924597663159)
(http://www.hiendy.com/hififorum/data/attachment/forum/201405/09/153601u1dsi1ylywll198s.jpg)
...and it is not even finished yet!
Post by: pTrader on Jun 09, 2015 at 05:52 PM
Post by: DTNS on Jun 09, 2015 at 06:12 PM
Post by: camoteque on Jun 09, 2015 at 06:45 PM
ano magandang wood for speaker enclosure available locally?
Do you mean as cabinet material and not as outer ply or veneer?
In my experience, it is not advisable to use pure solid wood panels as they are prone to cracking which may affect the speaker's performance especially for ported enclosures. Not much of a problem though with open baffle speakers.
Much better to use solid wood panels as the exterior ply or laminate of speakers made of plywood or mdf.
Post by: pTrader on Jun 10, 2015 at 03:12 PM
Do you mean as cabinet material and not as outer ply or veneer?
In my experience, it is not advisable to use pure solid wood panels as they are prone to cracking which may affect the speaker's performance especially for ported enclosures. Not much of a problem though with open baffle speakers.
Much better to use solid wood panels as the exterior ply or laminate of speakers made of plywood or mdf.
gagawa kasi ako ng box for a 2 way speaker, province sir yung sa amen, traditional hardware and lumber store yung available mostly ordinary plywood or plyboard..
Post by: camoteque on Jun 10, 2015 at 04:01 PM
gagawa kasi ako ng box for a 2 way speaker, province sir yung sa amen, traditional hardware and lumber store yung available mostly ordinary plywood or plyboard..
I suggest you use 1/2" -3/4" ply (marine ply is better) then laminate 1/2" thk solid wood panels to the plywood if you can get such thickness. In Pampanga, we have manual slicers that can cut wood up to 1/2"thk. The thicker the panels of the speaker box, the less bracing you will need.
Post by: pTrader on Jun 10, 2015 at 05:24 PM
I suggest you use 1/2" -3/4" ply (marine ply is better) then laminate 1/2" thk solid wood panels to the plywood if you can get such thickness. In Pampanga, we have manual slicers that can cut wood up to 1/2"thk. The thicker the panels of the speaker box, the less bracing you will need.
salamat sir, hahanap na lang ako ng magandang box design for 7inch woofer at vifa tweeter...
Post by: camoteque on Jun 16, 2015 at 07:03 PM
(http://i.imgur.com/bXec3YP.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/8UXRgmZ.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/0WAH5y5.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/ctpLR4x.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/TibQIue.jpg)
Application of top coat to follow.
Post by: DTNS on Jun 16, 2015 at 07:05 PM
Post by: Gino on Jun 16, 2015 at 07:12 PM
Post by: camoteque on Jun 16, 2015 at 07:18 PM
Post by: shrek7 on Jun 16, 2015 at 07:43 PM
Post by: Superman on Jun 16, 2015 at 07:47 PM
Post by: remington on Jun 16, 2015 at 08:01 PM
Post by: camoteque on Jun 16, 2015 at 08:29 PM
Post by: RXV on Jun 16, 2015 at 08:53 PM
Post by: Nelson de Leon on Jun 16, 2015 at 09:12 PM
Post by: remington on Jun 16, 2015 at 09:51 PM
Post by: camoteque on Jun 16, 2015 at 10:11 PM
If it's from Larry, it must be good!
Thanks. Your foam dampening crate works. Though you must experiment how much you should place in the box. In this cabinet, 1 side per opposing panel is sufficient. The bottom part or half of the panel where the foam is placed, I stuffed with fiberglass.
Post by: Nelson de Leon on Jun 16, 2015 at 10:15 PM
Thanks. Your foam dampening crate works. Though you must experiment how much you should place in the box. In this cabinet, 1 side per opposing panel is sufficient. The bottom part or half of the panel where the foam is placed, I stuffed with fiberglass.
That's sufficient already. Yeah, best thing is to really try it and best placement possible. There may be a rule of the thumb but then again, it really won't apply as different boxes and speakers produces different energies that should also suit the preference of the user.
Thank you Larry for confirming the results!
Post by: camoteque on Jun 16, 2015 at 10:48 PM
bro larry na sound check mo na yung classic 10 sa box? kamusta SQ?
Bro nung una, medyo prominent ang hi-mids. Medyo kulang sa bass (I experimented with placing the port at the bottom as requested by owner). Gagawa na sana ko ng bsc at zobel pero sabi ko try ko muna tweak ang port before doing anything electrically. Where before butas lang ang port, I decided to extend the port. In conjunction, binawasan ko ang stuffing like the thing I mentioned in the previous post. May bass na. Tuneful bass. I'm using a 2A3 SET amp, btw, with an aikido preamp playing spotify.
PERO, medyo may slight shout pa. Again, naisip ko kaya pa rin masolve ito mechanically. And mukang tama nga ako. Tried something with the dustcap, temporarily. I will measure later to see where the peak is coming from pag tapos na tapos na ang box.
Very transparent at efficient ang AN. Effortless sa SE 2A3 amp. Actually I am surprised na kahit walang whizzer cone, extended ang highs ng Classic.
Post by: remington on Jun 17, 2015 at 09:03 AM
Post by: JoeyGS on Jun 17, 2015 at 11:26 AM
Try placing teased fiberfill in the box space below the driver and before the port .... it may solve the shouty output. Placing more of the dampening crate may have altered or reduced the desired or optimum free air volume of the speaker box. You may just need to handle the standing waves which smears the mid frequencies.
Nice build on the box.
Bro nung una, medyo prominent ang hi-mids. Medyo kulang sa bass (I experimented with placing the port at the bottom as requested by owner). Gagawa na sana ko ng bsc at zobel pero sabi ko try ko muna tweak ang port before doing anything electrically. Where before butas lang ang port, I decided to extend the port. In conjunction, binawasan ko ang stuffing like the thing I mentioned in the previous post. May bass na. Tuneful bass. I'm using a 2A3 SET amp, btw, with an aikido preamp playing spotify.
PERO, medyo may slight shout pa. Again, naisip ko kaya pa rin masolve ito mechanically. And mukang tama nga ako. Tried something with the dustcap, temporarily. I will measure later to see where the peak is coming from pag tapos na tapos na ang box.
Very transparent at efficient ang AN. Effortless sa SE 2A3 amp. Actually I am surprised na kahit walang whizzer cone, extended ang highs ng Classic.
Post by: deist on Jun 17, 2015 at 11:33 AM
Hi Larry,
Try placing teased fiberfill in the box space below the driver and before the port .... it may solve the shouty output. Placing more of the dampening crate may have altered or reduced the desired or optimum free air volume of the speaker box. You may just need to handle the standing waves which smears the mid frequencies.
Nice build on the box.
+1
Another beautiful build sir Larry. Congrats to you & the owner O0
Post by: camoteque on Jun 17, 2015 at 12:25 PM
Hi Larry,frequencies.
Try placing teased fiberfill in the box space below the driver and before the port .... it may solve the shouty output. Placing more of the dampening crate may have altered or reduced the desired or optimum free air volume of the speaker box. You may just need to handle the standing waves which smears the mid frequencies.
Nice build on the box.
Nice build on the box.
[/quote]
Thanks bro. I will try your suggestion.
Post by: camoteque on Jun 17, 2015 at 12:27 PM
+1
Another beautiful build sir Larry. Congrats to you & the owner O0
Thanks bro.
Post by: shrek7 on Jun 17, 2015 at 01:58 PM
Post by: camoteque on Jun 17, 2015 at 03:44 PM
Post by: shrek7 on Jun 18, 2015 at 08:07 AM
Post by: innocent on Jun 18, 2015 at 09:18 AM
After sanding the cabinets, doing some retouchings, and application of several coats of sanding sealer, the almost finished AN cabinets
(http://i.imgur.com/bXec3YP.jpg)
Application of top coat to follow.
Ang galing. Kamusta ka initial SQ sir Larry? Sana kahit konti SQ review sa downfiring cab nito. Thanks.
Post by: RXV on Jun 18, 2015 at 09:29 AM
Post by: pTrader on Jun 18, 2015 at 11:11 AM
any recommendation for 2way speaker box design, 7inch woofer and 2 inch tweeter?
Post by: innocent on Jun 19, 2015 at 09:11 AM
AN drivers are known to be shouty on the first 100-200hrs, after 300 hrs, bass will show its true color, mids will be tamed and the highs will be detailed but not harsh, I experienced the same with my AN drivers during the time when they were still new.Very True indeed. ;)
Post by: camoteque on Jun 23, 2015 at 06:56 PM
With grills on
(http://i.imgur.com/ClfVnHu.jpg)
Closer shot
(http://i.imgur.com/N2zeRiu.jpg?1)
Grills off showing the wooden driver rings
(http://i.imgur.com/Sjhy6UA.jpg?1)
Closer shot
(http://i.imgur.com/at5Szt8.jpg?1)
Side view
(http://i.imgur.com/RlXfcti.jpg)
Back view showing the binding posts.
(http://i.imgur.com/alzB9q1.jpg)
Listening impressions and maybe a short video to follow.
Thanks for looking.
Post by: Gino on Jun 23, 2015 at 07:02 PM
Post by: camoteque on Jun 23, 2015 at 07:23 PM
Thanks bro.
Thanks bro.
Clap. Clap. Clap. Way up there with your best work.
Post by: shrek7 on Jun 23, 2015 at 08:07 PM
While still waiting for the emblems, I have plenty of time to listen to this pair and probably do some tweaks, if needed still. If you're near Pampanga, those interested may come for a listening session. :)WOOOOOOWWW!!!! Ang ganda!!! I like the grills! I like everything!!!
With grills on
(http://i.imgur.com/ClfVnHu.jpg)
Closer shot
(http://i.imgur.com/N2zeRiu.jpg?1)
Grills off showing the wooden driver rings
(http://i.imgur.com/Sjhy6UA.jpg?1)
Closer shot
(http://i.imgur.com/at5Szt8.jpg?1)
Side view
(http://i.imgur.com/RlXfcti.jpg)
Back view showing the binding posts.
(http://i.imgur.com/SArZRBe.jpg?1)
Listening impressions and maybe a short video to follow.
Thanks for looking.
Post by: innocent on Jun 24, 2015 at 12:38 PM
Post by: Superman on Jun 24, 2015 at 12:44 PM
Post by: J-M on Jun 24, 2015 at 12:52 PM
Post by: remington on Jun 24, 2015 at 02:01 PM
Post by: luis on Jun 24, 2015 at 02:36 PM
Post by: JoeyGS on Jun 24, 2015 at 03:11 PM
Post by: camoteque on Jun 24, 2015 at 03:53 PM
Nice craftsmanship. If this is down firing, the clearance from the floor must be 1.5" minimum - 2.5".... It has effect when the clearance from the floor is adjusted. :)
The height of the footers can be adjusted so no problem here.
Post by: Superman on Jun 24, 2015 at 03:54 PM
I have seen personally your speakers in the so many hifi shows I have attended. I have personally listened to them paired with Erik's amps...and all I can say is WOW! Genuine Talent! Excellent Craftsmanship! Hope you can post videos soon here...CONGRATULATIONS!
Post by: innocent on Jun 24, 2015 at 06:53 PM
Bro nung una, medyo prominent ang hi-mids. Medyo kulang sa bass (I experimented with placing the port at the bottom as requested by owner). Gagawa na sana ko ng bsc at zobel pero sabi ko try ko muna tweak ang port before doing anything electrically. Where before butas lang ang port, I decided to extend the port. In conjunction, binawasan ko ang stuffing like the thing I mentioned in the previous post. May bass na. Tuneful bass. I'm using a 2A3 SET amp, btw, with an aikido preamp playing spotify.
PERO, medyo may slight shout pa. Again, naisip ko kaya pa rin masolve ito mechanically. And mukang tama nga ako. Tried something with the dustcap, temporarily. I will measure later to see where the peak is coming from pag tapos na tapos na ang box.
Very transparent at efficient ang AN. Effortless sa SE 2A3 amp. Actually I am surprised na kahit walang whizzer cone, extended ang highs ng Classic.
The tweaks/suggestions of TNT Audio might help..
http://www.tnt-audio.com/casse/t-speakers_e.html
Post by: tony on Jun 26, 2015 at 09:42 PM
While still waiting for the emblems, I have plenty of time to listen to this pair and probably do some tweaks, if needed still. If you're near Pampanga, those interested may come for a listening session. :)
With grills on
(http://i.imgur.com/ClfVnHu.jpg)
Closer shot
(http://i.imgur.com/N2zeRiu.jpg?1)
Grills off showing the wooden driver rings
(http://i.imgur.com/Sjhy6UA.jpg?1)
Closer shot
(http://i.imgur.com/at5Szt8.jpg?1)
Side view
(http://i.imgur.com/RlXfcti.jpg)
Back view showing the binding posts.
(http://i.imgur.com/SArZRBe.jpg?1)
Listening impressions and maybe a short video to follow.
Thanks for looking.
Larry, pm sent....
Post by: Superman on Jul 03, 2015 at 03:31 PM
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f379/hwduser/TurberyGR%209_zpsjzodhffv.jpg)
(http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f379/hwduser/TurberyGR%206_zpsrxghqxoy.jpg)
Post by: camoteque on Jul 10, 2015 at 02:30 PM
ang ganda!!! sayang malayo ako sa pampangga mapakinggan sana...video naman!!!!!!
Jun eto na video. I have done no further changes to the cabinet except inserting a passive equalizer made by Tony in the chain. Problem 'shout' was gone. If the drivers are fully burn-in, then maybe the passive equalizer is no longer needed. I used Wendel's vintage fisher tube amp currently with me as the test amp with the tone controls set at "0".
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JO95kO6B1aY&feature=youtu.be
And another
https://youtu.be/_7dIt2hFxm4
Source is laptop playing spotify. Preamp is aikido loaned from Louie M.
Thanks for looking.
Post by: tony on Jul 10, 2015 at 03:04 PM
did you use an RTA to make adjustments?
Post by: camoteque on Jul 10, 2015 at 03:14 PM
nice to know Larry, i had my doubts when we were testing that passive network....
did you use an RTA to make adjustments?
I only used the audiotool app in my android phone and I don't see any abhorable spikes in the response. It's entirely different than when I last listened to these speakers with a friend.
Post by: tony on Jul 10, 2015 at 03:20 PM
Post by: remington on Jul 10, 2015 at 03:35 PM
Jun eto na video. I have done no further changes to the cabinet except inserting a passive equalizer made by Tony in the chain. Problem 'shout' was gone. If the drivers are fully burn-in, then maybe the passive equalizer is no longer needed. I used Wendel's vintage fisher tube amp currently with me as the test amp with the tone controls set at "0".very nice ganda ng SQ kahit youtube! matutuwa for sure ang may ari nyan. Great job very well done!!! congrats...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JO95kO6B1aY&feature=youtu.be
And another
https://youtu.be/_7dIt2hFxm4
Source is laptop playing spotify. Preamp is aikido loaned from Louie M.
Thanks for looking.
Post by: megalomania on Jul 10, 2015 at 04:23 PM
Post by: tony on Jul 10, 2015 at 04:30 PM
Post by: camoteque on Jul 10, 2015 at 06:29 PM
LG G3 cellphone lang. Maayos pala mic nito.
Larry, ano nga pala ginamit mong pang video nyan, cellphone mo?
Post by: shrek7 on Jul 10, 2015 at 06:46 PM
Jun eto na video. I have done no further changes to the cabinet except inserting a passive equalizer made by Tony in the chain. Problem 'shout' was gone. If the drivers are fully burn-in, then maybe the passive equalizer is no longer needed. I used Wendel's vintage fisher tube amp currently with me as the test amp with the tone controls set at "0".ang ganda ng tunog ah!!! Astig!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JO95kO6B1aY&feature=youtu.be
And another
https://youtu.be/_7dIt2hFxm4
Source is laptop playing spotify. Preamp is aikido loaned from Louie M.
Thanks for looking.
Post by: tony on Jul 12, 2015 at 08:46 AM
http://www.t-linespeakers.org/tech/bafflestep/passive-BSC.html
you can ask your friendly cable maker to make one for you, it is very easy to make
and has been proven to reduce "shouting" in the audio nirvana FR speakers....
(http://p10hifi.net/TLS/tech/bafflestep/images/joppa-PLLBSC.gif)
should you have further questions, feel free to ask....;)
since most pre-amps/buffers/sources will have source resistance in the
neighborhood of 1k and power amps' input impedance more than 50k in most cases...
just two resistors and 2 capacitors are all you need to implement this...
this are recommended values:
Quote
Rsource < 2k ohm
R1 = 10k
C1 = 1500pF
R2 = 12k
C2 = 0.033uF
Rload > 50k
Cload = 200pF
Post by: tetablanco on Jul 12, 2015 at 09:15 AM
con su permiso, camoteque....link to baffle step correction....by Paul Joppa
http://www.t-linespeakers.org/tech/bafflestep/passive-BSC.html
you can ask your friendly cable maker to make one for you, it is very easy to make
and has been proven to reduce "shouting" in the audio nirvana FR speakers....
(http://p10hifi.net/TLS/tech/bafflestep/images/joppa-PLLBSC.gif)
should you have further questions, feel free to ask....;)
since most pre-amps/buffers/sources will have source resistance in the
neighborhood of 1k and power amps' input impedance more than 50k in most cases...
just two resistors and 2 capacitors are all you need to implement this...
this are recommended values:
Hi Tony,
How can this used for an existing AN speaker system? Is this still necessary with my present system:
DIGITAL SOURCE -> DAC -> Tube Pre-Amp / Phono Stage -> SE 2A3 Amp -> AN 12" CF Speakers (with Larry's Cabinet)
ANALOG SOURCE -> Tube Pre-Amp / Phono Stage -> SE 2A3 Amp -> AN 12" CF Speakers (with Larry's Cabinet)
Thanks,
Teta
Post by: tony on Jul 12, 2015 at 09:28 AM
otherwise kung okey naman ang mids mo, then no need na...so case by case basis,
you may or may not need this...
Post by: tetablanco on Jul 12, 2015 at 12:35 PM
if you are experiencing "shouts" in your mids/vocals as they call it, this will help,
otherwise kung okey naman ang mids mo, then no need na...so case by case basis,
you may or may not need this...
I noticed a definite improvement when I switched back to my Sovtek 2A3s from my Psvane 2A3Bs. I think the Psvanes over-emphasized the mids - hence, the "shouts". Aside from the lessened shouts, I noticed that the sound seems fuller and rounder with the Sovteks compared to the Psvanes. Also, the subtle pops / crackles from the Psvanes disappeared with the Sovteks. Then again, that's just me and I could've been just imagining things. :)
Post by: Superman on Jul 12, 2015 at 02:36 PM
Post by: tetablanco on Jul 12, 2015 at 05:00 PM
Atty. Teta, I may be wrong but could it be "break in"?
Hi Jen,
It's not the break-in. During my speakers break-in with my Sovteks, there was an obvious bias towards the mids and highs since the bass was really tight then. However, my speakers broke in very nicely and the bass opened up beautifully when I ran the speakers almost on 24/7 for more than a month (Larry / camoteque suggested that I ventilate the tubes 24/7 with mini fans to prevent overheating.). The sound continues to improve daily. After break-in, I replaced my Sovtek 2A3 power tubes with the PSVane 2A3Bs two weeks ago. Once I used the PSVanes, however, there was a reduction in strength throughout the whole sound spectrum. The sound seemed thinner and lacking in detail. I gave the new tubes a chance to break in but there was no noticeable improvement. While I was using the PSVanes, the soundstage narrowed, sound separation became muddy, and the 3D sound effect and clarity / detail I had immediately noticed when I powered up with the Sovteks was now gone. I also noticed subtle pops and crackles while using the PSVanes. Earlier today, I placed back the Sovteks and it's as if a blanket was lifted from my speakers. The clarity, sound detail, wide soundstage, 3D effects, absence of pops and crackles, etc. all came back with the Sovteks. The PSVanes went back inside the box and I'm a happy camper again.:)
Post by: mykel18 on Jul 12, 2015 at 05:14 PM
Post by: tetablanco on Jul 12, 2015 at 05:39 PM
tube amp biasing?
tube amp biasing?
I
tube amp biasing?
Since I'm a newbie to tubes, I had my SE amp checked out by its creator, Master Tony, before and after replacing the tubes to ensure that the biasing was right.. Tony confirmed that everything worked fine. The PSVane's performance would've been fine if I hadn't gotten used to the Sovteks' performance. The difference was most glaring when using content of the highest resolution since there is a noticeable drop in detail, loss of focus, and narrowing of soundstage.
Post by: tony on Jul 12, 2015 at 06:13 PM
I noticed a definite improvement when I switched back to my Sovtek 2A3s from my Psvane 2A3Bs. I think the Psvanes over-emphasized the mids - hence, the "shouts". Aside from the lessened shouts, I noticed that the sound seems fuller and rounder with the Sovteks compared to the Psvanes. Also, the subtle pops / crackles from the Psvanes disappeared with the Sovteks. Then again, that's just me and I could've been just imagining things. :)
give your tubes some time to settle in...
no two tubes are exactly alike, there will be differences no matter how slight...
i will make you a pair of cables to use on your Pasvanes and for you to try.......
Since I'm a newbie to tubes, I had my SE amp checked out by its creator, Master Tony, before and after replacing the tubes to ensure that the biasing was right.. Tony confirmed that everything worked fine. The PSVane's performance would've been fine if I hadn't gotten used to the Sovteks' performance. The difference was most glaring when using content of the highest resolution since there is a noticeable drop in detail, loss of focus, and narrowing of soundstage.
this happens when you have options to try....;)
i wonder how Shuguangs will fare in this amp, since the amp was designed around them...
looks like i may have to build another 2A3 power amp so we can try those Pasvanes in....;)
i have a suspicion that these newer tubes are meant to be run differently from the vintage 2A3's old...
Post by: camoteque on Jul 12, 2015 at 08:54 PM
Post by: Superman on Jul 12, 2015 at 09:05 PM
Post by: tetablanco on Jul 12, 2015 at 10:23 PM
Try NOS RCA 2A3 instead :)
Do you have a spare pair lying around, Pare? :)
Post by: tetablanco on Jul 12, 2015 at 10:40 PM
Di kaya may problema ang Psvane tubes? Maganda siguro ipatest ito at baka defective? Pwede naman check voltages sa plate and cathode ng psvane tube while the amp is running. What do you think Sir Tony? Or nacheck na, na-miss ko lang sa above post? Di pa ba tayo OT?
First things first everyone, sorry for the OT post.
Hi Larry, the PSVanes weren't defective (except for the subtle crackles which was a widely-reported on different audio fora). I guess it's a matter of personal taste but I just find the tone of the PSVanes a bit thin. Call me suspicious but I guess the manufacturers of the PSVane tubes may have decided to come up with so-so tubes for their entry-level line (Hi-Fi line) so that their sales won't eat into their higher-end models (Treasure and WE Lines). In contrast, the manufacturers of Sovtek only produced one line of tubes for the longest time and came up with the Electro-Harmonix line to complement their main Sovtek line (gold-plated pins, white ceramic base, etc.). While both Sovtek and EH are American-owned now, I believe they are still built in the same factories in Russia.
By the way, here's an old article extolling the virtues of the Sovtek 2A3:
http://www.meta-gizmo.net/tri/awards/SovtekTGA.html
Post by: tetablanco on Jul 12, 2015 at 10:49 PM
give your tubes some time to settle in...
no two tubes are exactly alike, there will be differences no matter how slight...
i will make you a pair of cables to use on your Pasvanes and for you to try.......
this happens when you have options to try....;)
i wonder how Shuguangs will fare in this amp, since the amp was designed around them...
looks like i may have to build another 2A3 power amp so we can try those Pasvanes in....;)
i have a suspicion that these newer tubes are meant to be run differently from the vintage 2A3's old...
Thanks, Tony! Looking forward to it. :)
I read somewhere that 2A3Bs are drop-in replacements for 2A3s but that 2A3Cs are not. Since your SE 2A3 amp (which I got from Larry) was originally designed for the 2A3C, I guess it's possible that there might be some incompatibility with the 2A3B. However and since your amp works perfectly with Sovtek 2A3s, compatibility should not be an issue. Because of this, I'm thinking that it's just a performance limitation of the PSVane Hi-Fi line.
Post by: Superman on Jul 13, 2015 at 01:08 AM
Do you have a spare pair lying around, Pare? :)
Unfortunately none Atty. but bro, I will ask around ha
Post by: innocent on Jul 13, 2015 at 10:41 AM
Di kaya may problema ang Psvane tubes? Maganda siguro ipatest ito at baka defective? Pwede naman check voltages sa plate and cathode ng psvane tube while the amp is running. What do you think Sir Tony? Or nacheck na, na-miss ko lang sa above post? Di pa ba tayo OT?Tama.. That was the issue of my friend before with PS Vane. :)
Post by: innocent on Jul 13, 2015 at 11:13 AM
Post by: innocent on Jul 13, 2015 at 11:46 AM
Lupit nito recording ng AN Classic 10 sa 2nd video. :) Video pa more.
https://youtu.be/_7dIt2hFxm4
Source is laptop playing spotify. Preamp is aikido loaned from Louie M.
Thanks for looking.
Post by: tony on Jul 13, 2015 at 01:10 PM
Di kaya may problema ang Psvane tubes? Maganda siguro ipatest ito at baka defective? Pwede naman check voltages sa plate and cathode ng psvane tube while the amp is running. What do you think Sir Tony? Or nacheck na, na-miss ko lang sa above post? Di pa ba tayo OT?
OT na nga...:D
i hope the distributor of Pasvane in the Philippines chime in and shed some light...
the Shuguangs that i heard with this amp were superb sounding and exceeded my expectations...
and the thing that got me, they both measured exactly alike,
up until then i never imagined China tubes can be that closely matched...;)
@Teta, please do not pay too much attention on what you read on the internet,
i for one do not pay too much attention to equipment reviews, most of the time the reviewer
sugarcoats, all with the aim of making you part with your hard earned cash....
to me, audition, audition and more audition is the main thing....
Post by: camoteque on Jul 13, 2015 at 04:10 PM
The shouty mid of AN fullrange can be solved by putting some acoutic foam/wool fiber on the front panel of speaker box INTERNAL surrounding fullrange drivers only. Shrek7 already experimented this and was satisfied with the result. I also experimented it with my AN and also satisfied, (just yesterday). BSC is very good with other fullrange drivers. But as per TNT Audio, it has negative effect on the 3D soundstage of AN fullrange drivers, the reason they didn't recommend the notch filter or BSC. Perhaps with other fullrange drivers, BSC will be very beneficial. :)
The passive eq was placed in between preamp and amp in this set-up. No apparent negative effect on the SQ, IME. For sure at speaker levels aside from effects on SQ there surely would be loss of power because of the additional passive components.
Post by: innocent on Jul 13, 2015 at 04:17 PM
The passive eq was placed in between preamp and amp in this set-up. No apparent negative effect on the SQ, IME. For sure at speaker levels aside from effects on SQ there surely would be loss of power because of the additional passive components.Indeed. The BSC is different though same function as passive equalizer. However, the video is very good. Galing. :)
Post by: innocent on Jul 13, 2015 at 04:28 PM
Napaka ayos ng pagkakagawa ni sir Larry at ok ang tweak.... ;)
Post by: tony on Jul 13, 2015 at 05:33 PM
pre-emphasizes the lows and the highs while attenuating the mids somewhat...
and since this is a passive network, no distortion is introduced, only attenuation...
who's afraid of tone controls? if it does the job, then why not?
Post by: innocent on Jul 14, 2015 at 09:17 AM
BSC is another name for tone control....make no mistake about it...Agree.
pre-emphasizes the lows and the highs while attenuating the mids somewhat...
and since this is a passive network, no distortion is introduced, only attenuation...
who's afraid of tone controls? if it does the job, then why not?
BSC Circuit Calculator : http://diyaudioprojects.com/Technical/Baffle-Step-Correction-Circuit-Calculator/
BSC Circuit Effect: http://www.salksound.com/wp/?p=42
Post by: innocent on Jul 14, 2015 at 10:12 AM
Post by: camoteque on Jul 20, 2015 at 11:40 AM
(http://i.imgur.com/wJ3W6AD.jpg?1)
Shown with the rest of the system.
(http://i.imgur.com/oCqRBVP.jpg)
We also tried this low power 4p1L parallel SET made by Sir Tony (pls. see below). Not surprisingly, this amp is sufficient enough to drive these speakers to loud levels.
(http://i.imgur.com/QhTsqFL.jpg) (http://imgur.com/QhTsqFL)
Love the sense of scale and effortlessness of this horn speakers.
Thanks for looking.
Post by: Superman on Jul 20, 2015 at 11:51 AM
Post by: tony on Jul 20, 2015 at 11:54 AM
We listened to, again yesterday, to this onken speakers we made several years ago. Horn is a difficult to find Altec 311-90 driven by Altec 291 compression drivers and EV tweeters.
(http://i.imgur.com/wJ3W6AD.jpg?1)
Shown with the rest of the system.
(http://i.imgur.com/oCqRBVP.jpg)
We also tried this low power 4p1L parallel SET made by Sir Tony (pls. see below). Not surprisingly, this amp is sufficient enough to drive these speakers to loud levels.
(http://i.imgur.com/QhTsqFL.jpg) (http://imgur.com/QhTsqFL)
Love the sense of scale and effortlessness of this horn speakers.
Thanks for looking.
narinig na ba ni Lin yan? anong sabi? :D
Post by: camoteque on Jul 20, 2015 at 12:59 PM
Post by: camoteque on Jul 20, 2015 at 01:01 PM
Post by: tony on Jul 20, 2015 at 01:05 PM
Nagulat siya Tony. Kasama si Lin kahapon. Talo ung 2A3 amp ng may-ari pero in fairness medyo mahina na yung RCA tubes nya. Mas balanced tunog ng 4P1L. May 2A3 character din siya. Dahil siguro sa directly heated din ang 4P1L.
would have to agree, these russian tubes are no push-overs and can be giant killers too... >:D
good to know, alam mo naman, i value Lin's critic very much, if he says it is good, then it is good...
please give my regards....btw, i have inquiry for a 300b amp build, so i will be needing your plinth,
same size as the one we used on the 2A3's, paki pm na lang ang price at availability...
Post by: Superman on Jul 20, 2015 at 01:06 PM
Maganda ang Leben at 12 watts. Pero ang presyo!
YEAH! :D
Post by: edrel sison on Jul 20, 2015 at 01:08 PM
Horn is a difficult to find Altec 311-90Difficult indeed. I have 1 pc of the 311-90 waiting for a partner. Been sometime for now but no luck..
Post by: camoteque on Jul 20, 2015 at 01:45 PM
would have to agree, these russian tubes are no push-overs and can be giant killers too... >:D
good to know, alam mo naman, i value Lin's critic very much, if he says it is good, then it is good...
please give my regards....btw, i have inquiry for a 300b amp build, so i will be needing your plinth,
same size as the one we used on the 2A3's, paki pm na lang ang price at availability...
No problem Tony.
Post by: camoteque on Jul 20, 2015 at 01:47 PM
Difficult indeed. I have 1 pc of the 311-90 waiting for a partner. Been sometime for now but no luck..
In 10 years makakahanap ka rin. Ha ha.
Ang tagal na ni Lin sa proaudio, ang alam ko wala pang dumaan sa kamay nya na ganyang horn.
Post by: edrel sison on Jul 20, 2015 at 02:02 PM
by the way i saw some ALTEC MR-902-16HF on one of the pics. your friend using them too?
Post by: camoteque on Jul 20, 2015 at 02:08 PM
oo nga bro, makakahanap din ako nyan..i have those 311-60s too but i ended up selling them..
by the way i saw some ALTEC MR-902-16HF on one of the pics. your friend using them too?
Yes. We replaced the EV tweeters with the 902s. Mas gumanda pa.
Post by: edrel sison on Jul 20, 2015 at 02:18 PM
Yes. We replaced the EV tweeters with the 902s. Mas gumanda pa.nice to hear about that. i got a pair from someone. naka fix na ata yung cut-off because of the pre installed capacitor inside.
Post by: camoteque on Jul 20, 2015 at 02:37 PM
nice to hear about that. i got a pair from someone. naka fix na ata yung cut-off because of the pre installed capacitor inside.
Kung may passive xover ka na dati, pwede mo nang tanggalin yan kasi baka magbago cut-off freq. mo.
Post by: Superman on Jul 20, 2015 at 02:41 PM
Post by: remington on Jul 22, 2015 at 01:10 PM
over a mug of freshly brewed coffee ;)
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/IMG_20150722_104044_zpsgaojfvmc.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/IMG_20150722_104044_zpsgaojfvmc.jpg.html)
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/IMG_20150722_104139_zps65og8rc4.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/IMG_20150722_104139_zps65og8rc4.jpg.html)
removed the dust cap and now with puto on the side ;D
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/IMG_20150722_105459_zps6jjm576j.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/IMG_20150722_105459_zps6jjm576j.jpg.html)
the phase plug:
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/IMG_20150722_115028_zps2erio3k8.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/IMG_20150722_115028_zps2erio3k8.jpg.html)
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/IMG_20150722_115107_zpshoau7s4a.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/IMG_20150722_115107_zpshoau7s4a.jpg.html)
done >:D ;D
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/IMG_20150722_124336_zpsdw0dfcon.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/IMG_20150722_124336_zpsdw0dfcon.jpg.html)
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/IMG_20150722_124307_zpsuze5nkcg.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/IMG_20150722_124307_zpsuze5nkcg.jpg.html)
Next finding a whizzer cone :) sana may makuha! saan kaya meron? baka meron may alam ::)
Post by: tony on Jul 22, 2015 at 01:23 PM
Post by: remington on Jul 22, 2015 at 01:25 PM
Post by: tony on Jul 22, 2015 at 01:27 PM
si Nemesio Seriritan merong epoxy na gamit sa speakers....
sa Antipolo lang sya...https://www.facebook.com/nemesio.seriritan?fref=ts
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/p180x540/11181254_424131967774667_1838665776203292793_n.jpg?oh=b37d374ab18503c96895cf6edb53378b&oe=56571F6B&__gda__=1444168501_874ae540fa3ef86106719b76bf9f1bae)
Post by: Superman on Jul 22, 2015 at 01:33 PM
Post by: remington on Jul 22, 2015 at 01:35 PM
ok...whizzer na lang....
si Nemesio Seritan merong epoxy na gamit sa speakers....
sa Antipolo lang sya...https://www.facebook.com/nemesio.seriritan?fref=ts
oo nga master will coordinate with him para maka kuha ng epoxy. Thanks!Congratulations Remington!thanks sir!
Post by: Superman on Jul 24, 2015 at 07:55 PM
Post by: camoteque on Jul 24, 2015 at 08:51 PM
(http://i.imgur.com/GvY4Qfy.jpg)
Post by: remington on Jul 24, 2015 at 09:29 PM
Post by: camoteque on Jul 24, 2015 at 09:40 PM
Post by: Superman on Jul 24, 2015 at 10:08 PM
Post by: redstarrising on Aug 02, 2015 at 03:35 PM
Post by: Abad Santos 7 on Aug 02, 2015 at 04:14 PM
Post by: jambam on Aug 04, 2015 at 10:11 PM
salamat
Post by: camoteque on Aug 05, 2015 at 06:09 AM
Patanong naman . ano pong locally available wood glue ang pinaka mganda para sa pagdikit ng mdf ... for making sealed subs....Stikwell pwede na. Importante may black screws ka na ilalagay sa mdf. How do you plan to finish?
salamat
Post by: Gino on Aug 05, 2015 at 07:47 AM
I like Elmer's Wood Glue from National Bookstore. Comes in easy to bottles with self unclogging nozzles.
Post by: jambam on Aug 05, 2015 at 11:54 AM
The fit and finish of the cnc 'ed cabinets are precise enough not to need screws based on the build threads but will decide when I see it.
to finish maybe duratex , as featured in a lot of builds at AVS forum..
Mayroon ba dito ng duratex..
Post by: markcrenz on Aug 06, 2015 at 07:32 AM
Ayoko ng Stikwel. Nakasupot. Messy dukutin. But it does work.Bakit mo dinudukot yung supot? (parang perv ang dating hehe!) You can use the same supot as dispenser by cutting a small hole on one corner.
I like Elmer's Wood Glue from National Bookstore. Comes in easy to bottles with self unclogging nozzles.
The fit and finish of the cnc 'ed cabinets are precise enough not to need screws based on the build threads but will decide when I see it.Without screws you will need a lot of clamps and plenty of time.
Post by: markcrenz on Aug 06, 2015 at 07:33 AM
A collection of DIY horns by Lin Gomez from Dau, Pampanga. It's like being in a horn loudspeaker museum when you visit his place. :)that is one horny guy!
(http://i.imgur.com/GvY4Qfy.jpg)
Post by: qguy on Aug 06, 2015 at 08:35 AM
Patanong naman . ano pong locally available wood glue ang pinaka mganda para sa pagdikit ng mdf ... for making sealed subs....
salamat
Post by: dts_hdma on Aug 06, 2015 at 08:40 AM
Post by: cyberdraven on Aug 06, 2015 at 12:45 PM
thanks
paeng
Post by: edrel sison on Aug 06, 2015 at 12:47 PM
sir, sorry to threadjack, san makakabili ng l-pad?Deeco has them.
thanks
paeng
Post by: cyberdraven on Aug 06, 2015 at 12:52 PM
Post by: tony on Aug 06, 2015 at 01:01 PM
Post by: cyberdraven on Aug 06, 2015 at 01:08 PM
Post by: tony on Aug 06, 2015 at 01:11 PM
Post by: Superman on Aug 08, 2015 at 04:36 PM
Post by: remington on Jan 04, 2016 at 08:35 AM
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/IMG_20160103_104714_zpseu6qywer.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/IMG_20160103_104714_zpseu6qywer.jpg.html)
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/IMG_20160103_175108_zpsqoescezo.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/IMG_20160103_175108_zpsqoescezo.jpg.html)
test mode :D
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/IMG_20160103_193738_zpszvvc8u4u.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/IMG_20160103_193738_zpszvvc8u4u.jpg.html)
Post by: RXV on Jan 04, 2016 at 01:09 PM
Post by: remington on Jan 04, 2016 at 01:28 PM
Post by: tony on Jan 17, 2016 at 07:16 PM
but i did the 3-way passive cross overs...
i believe this was displayed in the recent hifi show...
(https://scontent-lax3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtp1/v/t34.0-12/12226441_10206263704210113_768461731_n.jpg?oh=66e1bfd0b666399593d85e3ab6e88c69&oe=569DEF1C)
Post by: Superman on Jan 17, 2016 at 07:57 PM
Post by: labs23 on Apr 05, 2016 at 03:46 PM
Naghahanap ako ngayon ng 4" diam. flared port.
Post by: tony on Apr 05, 2016 at 05:11 PM
Post by: labs23 on Apr 05, 2016 at 05:59 PM
Post by: tony on Apr 05, 2016 at 07:22 PM
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y155/leoman53/IMG_6405_zps01igvrgn.jpg) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/leoman53/media/IMG_6405_zps01igvrgn.jpg.html)
Post by: Nelson de Leon on Apr 05, 2016 at 07:54 PM
my diy 3-way crossover network...
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y155/leoman53/IMG_6405_zps01igvrgn.jpg) (http://s5.photobucket.com/user/leoman53/media/IMG_6405_zps01igvrgn.jpg.html)
Wow. Specs naman master Tony. Cut-offs etc.
Post by: tony on Apr 06, 2016 at 07:16 AM
Wow. Specs naman master Tony. Cut-offs etc.
this is a 2nd order, cut-offs at around 300h, mids 300 to 3000hz, highs above 3000 hz estimated...
Post by: Nelson de Leon on Apr 06, 2016 at 07:50 AM
this is a 2nd order, cut-offs at around 300h, mids 300 to 3000hz, highs above 3000 hz estimated...
Testing time na yan kina Trod! Hehe!
Post by: tony on Apr 06, 2016 at 07:32 PM
Testing time na yan kina Trod! Hehe!
i made two sets of these cross-overs...
Post by: tony on Apr 08, 2016 at 07:58 PM
(https://scontent.fmnl3-2.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/12928254_1110582762296690_5051548825071587328_n.jpg?_nc_eui=ARgz1HULRSVByGDALYlPHCGbDempaZMZ32OCkNp1OLg9rZ6ZgSx12eeT6jeu&oh=fb58c3f4c7beff25ef70a7337ae0a668&oe=57869BB3)
Post by: remington on Apr 17, 2016 at 05:48 PM
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/IMG_20160416_190839_zpsecyyfqfn.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/IMG_20160416_190839_zpsecyyfqfn.jpg.html)
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/IMG_20160417_140548_zpsjpkiha3n.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/IMG_20160417_140548_zpsjpkiha3n.jpg.html)
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/IMG_20160417_140352_zpszh8lgzjx.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/IMG_20160417_140352_zpszh8lgzjx.jpg.html)
testing....... ;D
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/IMG_20160417_150213_zps71vpmdvt.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/IMG_20160417_150213_zps71vpmdvt.jpg.html)
Post by: DTNS on Apr 17, 2016 at 06:42 PM
Post by: remington on Apr 17, 2016 at 07:09 PM
Post by: DTNS on Apr 17, 2016 at 07:48 PM
Yes sir textured German leather :)
ganda! :D
Post by: remington on Apr 17, 2016 at 09:08 PM
the continuation
the cedar wood side panels :)
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/IMG_20160418_165934_zpsnuhtugkg.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/IMG_20160418_165934_zpsnuhtugkg.jpg.html)
with 1 coat of sanding sealer
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/IMG_20160418_171602_zpspkkgxcmq.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/IMG_20160418_171602_zpspkkgxcmq.jpg.html)
the would be finish product without the grill ^-^
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/IMG_20160418_181113_zpsdx8ervlh.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/IMG_20160418_181113_zpsdx8ervlh.jpg.html)
to be continued.............. ^-^
Post by: remington on Apr 20, 2016 at 10:14 AM
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/IMG_20160420_094908_zps14kop9ha.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/IMG_20160420_094908_zps14kop9ha.jpg.html)
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/IMG_20160420_094811_zpsuxaguphv.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/IMG_20160420_094811_zpsuxaguphv.jpg.html)
Post by: geriboy on Apr 20, 2016 at 11:02 AM
Post by: remington on Apr 20, 2016 at 11:22 AM
Post by: jerrylodi on Apr 20, 2016 at 11:41 AM
Post by: remington on Apr 20, 2016 at 12:02 PM
Post by: tony on Apr 21, 2016 at 08:09 AM
(https://scontent.fmnl3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtp1/v/t1.0-9/13012893_10205295747507894_6855345431490614659_n.jpg?oh=0a90ed9331f314b9f7140b4d77f65695&oe=57B5EEE5)
Post by: geriboy on Apr 21, 2016 at 09:56 AM
thanks sir! for sure sold na yun sa dami ng naka pila ang ganda e hehehe
Gawa na lang kayo ng stands na matched sa speakers ninyo :D
Post by: rochie on Apr 21, 2016 at 10:03 AM
tyak mabajo it...:D
(https://scontent.fmnl3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtp1/v/t1.0-9/13012893_10205295747507894_6855345431490614659_n.jpg?oh=0a90ed9331f314b9f7140b4d77f65695&oe=57B5EEE5)
folded horn hahahahaha.
Post by: fredreadrick on Apr 21, 2016 at 01:02 PM
tyak mabajo it...:DHindi naman, may built-in P-trap ito sir Tony ;D
(https://scontent.fmnl3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtp1/v/t1.0-9/13012893_10205295747507894_6855345431490614659_n.jpg?oh=0a90ed9331f314b9f7140b4d77f65695&oe=57B5EEE5)
Post by: tony on Apr 21, 2016 at 05:51 PM
Post by: JoeyGS on Apr 22, 2016 at 02:23 PM
Where can I source the following cotton/wool felt? It the blue foam lining in the photo.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1712/26591137466_ef7135c021_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GvLwKm) (https://flic.kr/p/GvLwKm) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/15913120@N07/)
Post by: JojoD818 on Apr 24, 2016 at 09:06 PM
Guys,
Where can I source the following cotton/wool felt? It the blue foam lining in the photo.
(http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachments/full-range/543096d1460409068-full-range-speaker-photo-gallery-imgp5332.jpg)
I can't see the photo...
Post by: JoeyGS on Apr 24, 2016 at 11:41 PM
Guys,
Where can I source the following cotton/wool felt? It the blue foam lining in the photo.
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1712/26591137466_ef7135c021_z.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/GvLwKm) (https://flic.kr/p/GvLwKm) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/15913120@N07/)
Post by: JojoD818 on Apr 25, 2016 at 02:32 AM
Photo fixed.....
I think I saw this in a canvass supply store in Caloocan, it should also be available in Divisoria. Though the ones I see are not blue but pinkish in color. Will check when I pass by their store.
Post by: tony on Apr 25, 2016 at 07:37 AM
Post by: tony on Apr 25, 2016 at 07:40 AM
here is just a sample of his work....
(https://scontent-hkg3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/305757_192003054212606_699497568_n.jpg?oh=bb5793e8c93515c617e21c5f6640812b&oe=57A4721D)
Post by: JoeyGS on Apr 25, 2016 at 11:26 AM
Tamang tama I work in Makati and makes it accessible.
@JoeyGS, meron shell canvass sa pasay, near Gi; Puyat mrt....
Post by: tony on Apr 25, 2016 at 12:29 PM
Thanks Tony for the referral.
Tamang tama I work in Makati and makes it accessible.
welcome, i used to buy stuff from them, meron ding branch sila sa cubao....
Post by: remington on Apr 27, 2016 at 10:41 PM
(http://i1295.photobucket.com/albums/b622/remington0624/IMG_20160427_174701_zpschbfhgym.jpg) (http://s1295.photobucket.com/user/remington0624/media/IMG_20160427_174701_zpschbfhgym.jpg.html)
Post by: parasound on May 04, 2016 at 06:23 PM
http://www.beyma.de/fileadmin/seiten/download/pdf/Beyma_professional/SM115N.pdf
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Post by: parasound on May 26, 2016 at 10:23 AM
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a201/ronaldcorrales/Mobile%20Uploads/9F249AF8-DE7B-4BCB-9FC6-9EBFE23C1726_zps1bpizeye.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/ronaldcorrales/media/Mobile%20Uploads/9F249AF8-DE7B-4BCB-9FC6-9EBFE23C1726_zps1bpizeye.jpg.html)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: tony on May 26, 2016 at 12:32 PM
Latest project, planning to repaint, powder coated or flat black
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a201/ronaldcorrales/Mobile%20Uploads/9F249AF8-DE7B-4BCB-9FC6-9EBFE23C1726_zps1bpizeye.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/ronaldcorrales/media/Mobile%20Uploads/9F249AF8-DE7B-4BCB-9FC6-9EBFE23C1726_zps1bpizeye.jpg.html)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
textured black powder coating, TB-7005, you have to strip the original paint though,
sandblasting ought to take care of that...
Post by: parasound on May 26, 2016 at 02:36 PM
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Post by: parasound on May 29, 2016 at 06:45 PM
Thanks
Post by: Abad Santos 7 on May 31, 2016 at 08:55 AM
Help needed, looking for 1 inch Plywood, info naman mga sir kung sino supplier.
Thanks
Sir try mo sa Pateco.
Cheers.
Post by: Gino on May 31, 2016 at 09:04 AM
373-0303 to 05
22 Sct. Santiago st., Bgy Laging Handa, QC
Post by: parasound on May 31, 2016 at 06:42 PM
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Post by: parasound on Jun 07, 2016 at 05:17 PM
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a201/ronaldcorrales/Mobile%20Uploads/95FE1C11-2CBB-470C-8951-CC2CA09B40CF_zpsmnw2zcun.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/ronaldcorrales/media/Mobile%20Uploads/95FE1C11-2CBB-470C-8951-CC2CA09B40CF_zpsmnw2zcun.jpg.html)
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a201/ronaldcorrales/Mobile%20Uploads/E672A7A8-8C4A-45E5-AEEC-4944D2258384_zpsj1rjjbtn.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/ronaldcorrales/media/Mobile%20Uploads/E672A7A8-8C4A-45E5-AEEC-4944D2258384_zpsj1rjjbtn.jpg.html)
Altec 416 8B
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a201/ronaldcorrales/Mobile%20Uploads/278D7A47-B41A-46FF-90D5-89DFC47C9F06_zpsfpw2lda9.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/ronaldcorrales/media/Mobile%20Uploads/278D7A47-B41A-46FF-90D5-89DFC47C9F06_zpsfpw2lda9.jpg.html)
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a201/ronaldcorrales/Mobile%20Uploads/823D637B-B1AD-46C7-BAF4-554ADE4FCCDB_zpscfih9asf.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/ronaldcorrales/media/Mobile%20Uploads/823D637B-B1AD-46C7-BAF4-554ADE4FCCDB_zpscfih9asf.jpg.html)
Plywood na lang
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Post by: parasound on Jun 13, 2016 at 08:31 PM
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a201/ronaldcorrales/Mobile%20Uploads/B09B2F99-63DC-4305-9C34-39E8DE7491C0_zps7okrrxyt.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/ronaldcorrales/media/Mobile%20Uploads/B09B2F99-63DC-4305-9C34-39E8DE7491C0_zps7okrrxyt.jpg.html)
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Post by: parasound on Jun 18, 2016 at 11:20 AM
Horn - ok
HF Compression Driver - ok
Crossover Parts - ok
Plywood - ok
Game.. Wooaaah. Ilang araw na lang.
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a201/ronaldcorrales/Mobile%20Uploads/67803823-0193-474F-9453-3E4454AB563F_zpsgfev8qlk.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/ronaldcorrales/media/Mobile%20Uploads/67803823-0193-474F-9453-3E4454AB563F_zpsgfev8qlk.jpg.html)
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a201/ronaldcorrales/Mobile%20Uploads/416FAEB5-A290-4B99-8392-4FE940D0425C_zpsa9fydhpc.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/ronaldcorrales/media/Mobile%20Uploads/416FAEB5-A290-4B99-8392-4FE940D0425C_zpsa9fydhpc.jpg.html)
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Post by: tony on Jun 18, 2016 at 01:25 PM
i like that baffle, i have a pair of Hukotone vintage 12 inchers...
Post by: parasound on Jun 18, 2016 at 02:54 PM
uy, vintage talaga ang dating.....;)
i like that baffle, i have a pair of Hukotone vintage 12 inchers...
Yes sir Tony, inspired by Jean Hiraga Onken, day 1 start today.. Fast Track Project Sir Tony. Kailangan matapos agad by Tuesday. Para ma enjoy ko ng kahit 3 days yung speaker, then back to work na ulit.
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Post by: bogart.2006 on Jun 19, 2016 at 05:58 AM
I only have experience building speaker boxes for car audio applications. What kind of wood is good to use for a speaker box/enclosure for home audio use? From my experience in car audio kasi, plywood/plyboard doesn't produce the same sound as an MDF board would
Post by: tony on Jun 19, 2016 at 08:08 AM
Post by: Gino on Jun 19, 2016 at 10:52 AM
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/51746-mdf-v-plywood-construction.html
"When the first mode of an enclosure panel resonance is outside the passband of the drivers in that enclosure, you don't need damping... only stiffness. This is the case with sub enclosures, where panels (should) resonate well above the operating range of the drivers and the goal should be to increase stiffness by any and all means necessary to minimize the amplitude of forced excitation vibrations. Here both MDF and ply can be used, with the first resulting in a heavier enclosure for the same performance. The final cost will likely be fairly similar between the two, with ply perhaps having a slightly smaller finished enclosure for a bit higher cost.
When the first mode of an enclosure panel resonance is within the passband of the drivers in that enclosure, you need both damping and stiffness. This is the case with full-range (or satellite) enclosures, where panels almost unavoidably resonate somewhere within the operating range of one of the drivers. Here the goal should be to increase stiffness as much as possible to minimize the amplitude of forced excitation vibrations, and to maximize damping so that the amplitude at resonance is kept in check as well. This can be accomplished with either MDF or plywood, with the first requiring more bracing or thicker walls for the same result, and the latter requiring more applied damping material liners for the same result. Relatively speaking, since MDF is usually cheaper than both good plywood and good damping materials, and since bracing techniques contribute way more to the overall panel stiffness than either panel thickness or material modulus, it would seem obvious that MDF is the more economic choice. And, with any experience with proven engineering methods, an equally or better performing choice as well.
Since forced excitations are relatively low in amplitude compared to sub enclosures, one should focus most of his efforts on proper damping. Hence, use MDF as a good starting point and spend the extra money (saved vs. ply) on additional damping.
Don't forget that stuffing is also important when the enclosure dimensions become large wrt the lowest wavelength in the passband of the drivers used (i.e., when the enclosure is 1/4 wavelength or larger, as a rule of thumb). This leads to the conclusion that subs don't require stuffing for backwave damping (but might otherwise benefit from the apparent increase in enclosure volume when a lot is used), but fullrange enclosures do require stuffing to dampen internal standing wave resonances.
In my observations, you'll find that the people who think plywood sounds better for fullrange enclosures are the same people who think some resistors sound better, some cables have a preferred direction, some volume knobs (the knobs, not the pots) sound better, etc. Take that for what you will... perhaps they are self deluded about practically everything "golden ear" related, or perhaps they are the ones who really do have good ears and can give the most consistent advice. Depending on which side of the greater subjectivist/objectivist argument you fall, you will either take their endorsement of plywood as an endorsement, or a warning."
Post by: redstarrising on Jun 19, 2016 at 11:50 AM
Latest project, planning to repaint, powder coated or flat black
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a201/ronaldcorrales/Mobile%20Uploads/9F249AF8-DE7B-4BCB-9FC6-9EBFE23C1726_zps1bpizeye.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/ronaldcorrales/media/Mobile%20Uploads/9F249AF8-DE7B-4BCB-9FC6-9EBFE23C1726_zps1bpizeye.jpg.html)
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ayan na inilabas na mga nahukay, mukang approaching na sa game over speaker hehehe. Bilisan mo gawin yan para ma audition agad. Wag mo kalimutan mga request ko kahit DORIAN L-101 hehehe.
Post by: parasound on Jun 19, 2016 at 12:12 PM
ayan na inilabas na mga nahukay, mukang approaching na sa game over speaker hehehe. Bilisan mo gawin yan para ma audition agad. Wag mo kalimutan mga request ko kahit DORIAN L-101 hehehe.
@ Sir Jun meron available - JBL S 101
http://vnav.vn/forum/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5946&p=2413123&hilit=Jbl+101#p2413123
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Post by: parasound on Jun 19, 2016 at 12:29 PM
1st - Stiffener
2nd - Damping
Kaya kahit 1" plywood yung gagamitin ko kailangan pa din ng sitffener at bracing in some areas as per jean hiraga design.
This is the best comment I could find. Thread is here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/51746-mdf-v-plywood-construction.html
"When the first mode of an enclosure panel resonance is outside the passband of the drivers in that enclosure, you don't need damping... only stiffness. This is the case with sub enclosures, where panels (should) resonate well above the operating range of the drivers and the goal should be to increase stiffness by any and all means necessary to minimize the amplitude of forced excitation vibrations. Here both MDF and ply can be used, with the first resulting in a heavier enclosure for the same performance. The final cost will likely be fairly similar between the two, with ply perhaps having a slightly smaller finished enclosure for a bit higher cost.
When the first mode of an enclosure panel resonance is within the passband of the drivers in that enclosure, you need both damping and stiffness. This is the case with full-range (or satellite) enclosures, where panels almost unavoidably resonate somewhere within the operating range of one of the drivers. Here the goal should be to increase stiffness as much as possible to minimize the amplitude of forced excitation vibrations, and to maximize damping so that the amplitude at resonance is kept in check as well. This can be accomplished with either MDF or plywood, with the first requiring more bracing or thicker walls for the same result, and the latter requiring more applied damping material liners for the same result. Relatively speaking, since MDF is usually cheaper than both good plywood and good damping materials, and since bracing techniques contribute way more to the overall panel stiffness than either panel thickness or material modulus, it would seem obvious that MDF is the more economic choice. And, with any experience with proven engineering methods, an equally or better performing choice as well.
Since forced excitations are relatively low in amplitude compared to sub enclosures, one should focus most of his efforts on proper damping. Hence, use MDF as a good starting point and spend the extra money (saved vs. ply) on additional damping.
Don't forget that stuffing is also important when the enclosure dimensions become large wrt the lowest wavelength in the passband of the drivers used (i.e., when the enclosure is 1/4 wavelength or larger, as a rule of thumb). This leads to the conclusion that subs don't require stuffing for backwave damping (but might otherwise benefit from the apparent increase in enclosure volume when a lot is used), but fullrange enclosures do require stuffing to dampen internal standing wave resonances.
In my observations, you'll find that the people who think plywood sounds better for fullrange enclosures are the same people who think some resistors sound better, some cables have a preferred direction, some volume knobs (the knobs, not the pots) sound better, etc. Take that for what you will... perhaps they are self deluded about practically everything "golden ear" related, or perhaps they are the ones who really do have good ears and can give the most consistent advice. Depending on which side of the greater subjectivist/objectivist argument you fall, you will either take their endorsement of plywood as an endorsement, or a warning."
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Post by: redstarrising on Jun 19, 2016 at 03:09 PM
Yes Sir Jun, Promise ko kay Hepe yan, wala ng kasunod na project. mabuti na lang nasanay ako sa mga past track project natin dati. Kaya lahat ng project ko puro mabilisan. Tingin ka palagi dun sa forum nila then pag meron ka nakita at decided ka na, reserve agad natin. mabilis bentaha dun, maraming piranha.
@ Sir Jun meron available - JBL S 101
http://vnav.vn/forum/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5946&p=2413123&hilit=Jbl+101#p2413123
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Ayyy!!! iba pala yan Jap version na "S" yoko nyan hehe. Yun DORIAN L-101 Lancer sana kung meron masilip ka. :)
Post by: parasound on Jun 24, 2016 at 04:00 PM
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a201/ronaldcorrales/Mobile%20Uploads/1A1B8A09-8395-4C80-8C8A-A58F5F166D13_zpsydcwu4bu.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/ronaldcorrales/media/Mobile%20Uploads/1A1B8A09-8395-4C80-8C8A-A58F5F166D13_zpsydcwu4bu.jpg.html)
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Post by: parasound on Jun 24, 2016 at 11:15 PM
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a201/ronaldcorrales/Mobile%20Uploads/EAFD66B7-1E8F-41AE-B546-D32EC04EC9A9_zpsrlcg25pq.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/ronaldcorrales/media/Mobile%20Uploads/EAFD66B7-1E8F-41AE-B546-D32EC04EC9A9_zpsrlcg25pq.jpg.html)
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a201/ronaldcorrales/Mobile%20Uploads/BF342ECD-85DC-4CA9-94B3-227D2BF73613_zpsdrv96k4l.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/ronaldcorrales/media/Mobile%20Uploads/BF342ECD-85DC-4CA9-94B3-227D2BF73613_zpsdrv96k4l.jpg.html)
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a201/ronaldcorrales/Mobile%20Uploads/666F9E2A-E868-4868-9453-29CA5FB0090C_zpspeymfhyk.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/ronaldcorrales/media/Mobile%20Uploads/666F9E2A-E868-4868-9453-29CA5FB0090C_zpspeymfhyk.jpg.html)
Back to the future
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Post by: tony on Jun 25, 2016 at 07:01 AM
500hz 2nd Order Butterworth - By Transformer & Coil Master - Pareng Edrel Sison
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a201/ronaldcorrales/Mobile%20Uploads/1A1B8A09-8395-4C80-8C8A-A58F5F166D13_zpsydcwu4bu.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/ronaldcorrales/media/Mobile%20Uploads/1A1B8A09-8395-4C80-8C8A-A58F5F166D13_zpsydcwu4bu.jpg.html)
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well done, can you pm me cost to make that box? thanks..
Post by: dana on Jun 25, 2016 at 07:58 AM
my friend saw that cabinet while in progress...
Post by: parasound on Jun 25, 2016 at 08:21 AM
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Post by: parasound on Jun 25, 2016 at 01:38 PM
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a201/ronaldcorrales/Mobile%20Uploads/55D79143-CD62-413A-BC30-2C3E7B955959_zps97ibhluw.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/ronaldcorrales/media/Mobile%20Uploads/55D79143-CD62-413A-BC30-2C3E7B955959_zps97ibhluw.jpg.html)
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a201/ronaldcorrales/Mobile%20Uploads/92F39E6F-D06A-44AC-87F8-2067CD70F4F5_zpsyuuquv9f.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/ronaldcorrales/media/Mobile%20Uploads/92F39E6F-D06A-44AC-87F8-2067CD70F4F5_zpsyuuquv9f.jpg.html)
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a201/ronaldcorrales/Mobile%20Uploads/583A519B-873A-4203-8861-585E23E0A3EA_zpsv8wcd2f9.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/ronaldcorrales/media/Mobile%20Uploads/583A519B-873A-4203-8861-585E23E0A3EA_zpsv8wcd2f9.jpg.html)
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a201/ronaldcorrales/Mobile%20Uploads/9A67276C-7116-4EDF-8269-86325206CE66_zpscn3scuea.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/ronaldcorrales/media/Mobile%20Uploads/9A67276C-7116-4EDF-8269-86325206CE66_zpscn3scuea.jpg.html)
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a201/ronaldcorrales/Mobile%20Uploads/29A8945E-2966-4867-AAFC-10106D9D6C48_zps56t9xrca.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/ronaldcorrales/media/Mobile%20Uploads/29A8945E-2966-4867-AAFC-10106D9D6C48_zps56t9xrca.jpg.html)
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a201/ronaldcorrales/Mobile%20Uploads/D45E617C-2F88-4AD6-90DE-B3B221261377_zpssnaejywl.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/ronaldcorrales/media/Mobile%20Uploads/D45E617C-2F88-4AD6-90DE-B3B221261377_zpssnaejywl.jpg.html)
(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a201/ronaldcorrales/Mobile%20Uploads/9CE79DBB-F984-4B03-B45B-654A8934ADF7_zpsjg5zfvc0.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/ronaldcorrales/media/Mobile%20Uploads/9CE79DBB-F984-4B03-B45B-654A8934ADF7_zpsjg5zfvc0.jpg.html)
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Post by: redstarrising on Jun 26, 2016 at 07:27 AM
Post by: parasound on Jun 26, 2016 at 08:52 AM
ronald, aalis ka na agad di ko pa naririnig ;D ;D ;D ;D, ako paparating pa lang ;), congrats!!! bro. 8)
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Post by: tony on Jun 26, 2016 at 11:48 AM
Post by: parasound on Jun 26, 2016 at 12:05 PM
#parasound, have a safe trip, kailan ang balik mp dito? thanks for the heads up...
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Post by: rulesmeister on Feb 09, 2018 at 11:34 AM
A friend of mine just left to work abroad, he sold me his Crown floorstanders at Php 800 para lang mai-dispose ung unit (since kaibigan, I obliged to accept his sell offer).
I already have floorstanders for my HT, but I planned to use this crown fs for a bedroom set up (purely music). As expected the drivers & tweeters were cheap and the sound is not good for my taste. But the floorstanders itself did looked good & SQ could be improved
I planned to replace drivers, tweeters, wires & x'overs, purchase at partsexpress HiVi Svans woofers & Dayton Audio air motion tweeters of the same size as of the current drivers.
Question:
Any other suggestions? may other route ba nito that would improve SQ? & drivers that are locally available?
Medyo matagal pa kasi if sa partsexpress pa bibilhin ung drivers/tweeters
Post by: Nelson de Leon on Feb 09, 2018 at 11:57 AM
Guys, buhayan ko lang thread na 'to..Im good and okay with DIY however sa move na gagawin niyo, hindi kaya mascheaper if you buy a new pair of speakers? Parang enclosure na lang ang tinira niyo. Hehe!
A friend of mine just left to work abroad, he sold me his Crown floorstanders at Php 800 para lang mai-dispose ung unit (since kaibigan, I obliged to accept his sell offer).
I already have floorstanders for my HT, but I planned to use this crown fs for a bedroom set up (purely music). As expected the drivers & tweeters were cheap and the sound is not good for my taste. But the floorstanders itself did looked good & SQ could be improved
I planned to replace drivers, tweeters, wires & x'overs, purchase at partsexpress HiVi Svans woofers & Dayton Audio air motion tweeters of the same size as of the current drivers.
Question:
Any other suggestions? may other route ba nito that would improve SQ? & drivers that are locally available?
Medyo matagal pa kasi if sa partsexpress pa bibilhin ung drivers/tweeters
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Post by: markcrenz on Feb 09, 2018 at 12:17 PM
Post by: rulesmeister on Feb 09, 2018 at 01:18 PM
Post by: ndotcom on Feb 10, 2018 at 07:50 AM
Post by: tony on Feb 10, 2018 at 08:45 AM
the first thing i will do is check the tweeters if they are not burned out yet..
then perhaps upgrade the dividing network to better caps, all electros needs to go... and chokes/coils made air core and thicker gauge...Edrel is your man for that...
Post by: rulesmeister on Feb 10, 2018 at 09:26 AM
Just go ahead sir, maganda rin yan naisip mo. As per experience kasi pinakamatagal gawin yang enclosure plus mahirap mag source ng material especially MDF, wala sa tabi tabi construction supply yan. DIY is sariling diskarte kaya nga "yourself" dulo eh sa bandang huli ikaw din magsisi. Patience is the key lang, wag mainip sa mga materyales at pag buo ng project.
Agree. I have nothing to lose and everything to gain (maliban nalang if I get lemon items from partsexpress, wag naman sana!). Ung kasama ko sa work advised me to do DIY from scratch, ehh Im not good with woodworking hehehe. I could create a box but it wouldnt look good and it may not be sturdy enough..
@Sir Tony,
Noted! Un din inisip ko to change x'over 1st since available locally mga parts.. Many thanks
Post by: tony on Feb 10, 2018 at 10:35 AM
Post by: parasound on Feb 10, 2018 at 12:17 PM
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Post by: markcrenz on Feb 10, 2018 at 06:48 PM
Yung coils pwedeng di na upgrade if you will soon replace the drivers. The new drivers will surely have different parameters and will require an entirely different crossover.
Rod Elliott has a good article on passive crossover design. Google mo na lang.
Lastly DIBS ako sa old drivers.😂
Post by: tony on Feb 11, 2018 at 08:03 AM
Post by: rulesmeister on Feb 14, 2018 at 01:08 PM
Already added to my cart (partsexpress) 4 HiVi drivers & 2 tweeters. My boss will be going to the US next week, I'll ask him 1st if he could carry these for me. Medyo marami issues sa work kaya hindi ko muna cya kinausap baka tanggihan hehehe. Bukas baka maganda mood, tsaka ko na kausapin.
Anyway, plan B is to ship via LBC my shopping cart.
Post by: rochie on Feb 14, 2018 at 01:18 PM
Btw Crown BF-646 ung model, my friend told me he bought it at around P5000 mid last year. I removed 1 driver and the mdf thickness is around 1/2", I think this is sturdy enough for 2 swans HiVi drivers. I don't need to drive the speakers at very high SPL since it will be used on a medium-sized bedroom.
Already added to my cart (partsexpress) 4 HiVi drivers & 2 tweeters. My boss will be going to the US next week, I'll ask him 1st if he could carry these for me. Medyo marami issues sa work kaya hindi ko muna cya kinausap baka tanggihan hehehe. Bukas baka maganda mood, tsaka ko na kausapin.
Anyway, plan B is to ship via LBC my shopping cart.
plan B is good too,kaya lang matagal lang sea-freight mga 1 month,kung via air naman baka mahal dahil mabigat drivers
Post by: markcrenz on Feb 14, 2018 at 02:01 PM
Post by: juneaki on Mar 01, 2018 at 01:54 PM
Post by: tony on Mar 01, 2018 at 01:58 PM
if powerful enough and if your power amp is rated for 4 ohms, then parallel,
if you power amp is not rated for 4 ohms, then series..
Post by: markcrenz on Mar 01, 2018 at 05:15 PM
Post by: juneaki on Mar 05, 2018 at 04:14 PM
depends on how much your power amp is capable,
if powerful enough and if your power amp is rated for 4 ohms, then parallel,
if you power amp is not rated for 4 ohms, then series..
ilan ohms?
I'm using a Yaqin MC10T tube amp, it has speaker options for both 4ohms and 8 ohms. I'm talking about a three way bozak N10102A three way crossover network. I already hooked two Bozak 12" B199A rated 8ohms in parallel to the LF terminal and the result made me smile. My midrange drivers are also Bozak and Klipsck horn tweeters for highs. Meron lang akong concern, i assumed that the terminal numbered 1 is the positive and the #2 terminal is the negative. So i hooked it to the amp as such. Just today, i discovered that it is the reverse, meaning #1 is the negative and #2 is the positive. Okay lang ba na reverse ang polarity? (But i'll re-check kasi mejo malabo na yung mga markings kasi more than 50 years na mga speakers.)
Post by: tony on Mar 05, 2018 at 06:44 PM
Post by: juneaki on Mar 06, 2018 at 07:35 AM
you can use a 1.5 volt dry cell to check phase, either both na papasok ang cone or parehong palabas, kung mabaligtad mo hihina ang bass..
Thanks sir Tony.
Post by: tony on Mar 06, 2018 at 08:58 AM
Post by: sgxp on Oct 24, 2018 at 03:09 PM
Post by: wheelee on Aug 15, 2019 at 11:52 AM
is it practical to use like two 10" woofers or the norm are those 6"/8" cones?
back in the day we used to DIY outdoor speakers for mobile sound systems, oh how I miss those days.
Post by: wheelee on Aug 18, 2019 at 12:12 PM
can't imagine how these can churn out huge bass & sometime chest pounding in my 30sqm room.
why no dome cap?
(https://i.ibb.co/VLZYyVQ/speaker2.png)
(https://i.ibb.co/wLXhSBn/speaker.png[img]
planning just to bring home the speakers then DIY the case
[img]https://i.ibb.co/5BB2q3w/speaker3.png)
Post by: wheelee on Aug 18, 2019 at 12:16 PM
(https://i.ibb.co/5BB2q3w/speaker3.png)
Post by: shrek7 on Dec 17, 2020 at 08:47 PM